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Reddit mentions of TOPS Standard Easel Pads, 3-Hole Punched, 27 x 34 Inch, 1" Grid, White, 50 Sheets/Pad, Carton of 2 Pads (7902)

Sentiment score: 16
Reddit mentions: 24

We found 24 Reddit mentions of TOPS Standard Easel Pads, 3-Hole Punched, 27 x 34 Inch, 1" Grid, White, 50 Sheets/Pad, Carton of 2 Pads (7902). Here are the top ones.

TOPS Standard Easel Pads, 3-Hole Punched, 27 x 34 Inch, 1
Buying options
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    Features:
  • High quality white paper with attractive binding head strips
  • 3-hole punched to fit most standard easels
  • One square inch grid lines in light blue for guidance
  • Perforated for clean, easy tear-off
  • 50 sheets per pad - Carton of 2 pads
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height27.4 Inches
Length34.3 Inches
Number of items1
Size2-Count
Width0.31 Inches

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Found 24 comments on TOPS Standard Easel Pads, 3-Hole Punched, 27 x 34 Inch, 1" Grid, White, 50 Sheets/Pad, Carton of 2 Pads (7902):

u/SergeantIndie · 10 pointsr/DnD

Make? No.

Paint? Yes. I painted all of those.

The Goblins are actually a pretty good deal. Reaper's Pathfinder Goblin Warriors. Get 4 of them for 3 bucks. If you want a bit more variety you can get the Reaper's Pathfinder Goblin Pyros but I'd feel pressured to do Object Source Lighting and I'd screw it up. Got two batches of the goblins and painted them all assembly line style.

Reaper Bones has a fair amount of similar "package deals" for a few monsters. 3-4 Skeletons, warriors, goblins, etc. Easy way to build a basic collection, even if it wont be 100% accurate at play time.

I'm using 3 Warriors, 3 Skeletons, and 8 Goblins as markers for most things right now since they were so cheap and easy. Players are pretty understanding of me using stand ins so far. They're happy to have painted miniatures even if the couple Bugbears in a fight are represented by Human Warrior minis.

Of course, even cheaper, you can get any number of wooden or plastic counters in any number of colors and shapes. Those work great too, but I enjoy collecting and painting (even on my limited budget) so Reaper Bones have been a godsend.

Oh! That 1 inch grid paper can be picked up as an Easel Pad. It allows you to draw out full maps, or even just important rooms ahead of time. Easy to just lay the prepped sheet out and go rather than drawing a room out before the combat.

There's a saying in the Army: Everything is ounces, ounces are pounds, pounds are miles.

Well, in D&D: Everything is seconds, seconds are minutes, and minutes are player interest and investment. Keep things flowing smoothly and keep people interested!

u/Drunken_Economist · 3 pointsr/DnD

It depends how much work you want to put into it! Drawing it as you go (or describing it and watching/correcting the players' drawing) is easy and works just fine. I prefer being able to include more details and colors, so I went out and bought a few pads of 1-inch graph easel paper and spend some time drawing out each section of a dungeon. As the players explore, I put a new sheet down and occasionally use some scrap paper to cover up parts they can't see.

u/Evalonne · 3 pointsr/DnD

I used the giant grid paper easel pads for LMOP: https://smile.amazon.com/Standard-3-Hole-Punched-Sheets-Carton/dp/B00AQDGJRO It worked really well except for the last map. That place is HUGE. If I were doing it again, I'd do what I'm doing for Storm King's Thunder: I'm drawing sections out on 8.5x11 grid paper and rubber-cementing them to cardstock. This is letting me put them together and take them apart like puzzle pieces, and it's working much better.

u/maximillianx · 3 pointsr/DMAcademy

Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and pick up a sheet of plexiglass or other transparent sheet to put over it, that helps to deal with the overall flimsy nature of the paper.


Another person mentioned presentation paper - There are some pretty nice pads for about $40. I went to an educational supply store and got essentially the same type of thing for a better price per sheet.

​

u/diatone · 2 pointsr/DnD

I bought these from amazon a few years back for use as battlemaps. They have served me well.

u/kylania · 2 pointsr/DnD

You can use anything you want really. One group I was in used these 1" grid paper easel sized: https://www.amazon.com/Standard-3-Hole-Punched-Sheets-Carton/dp/B00AQDGJRO?th=1

There's also specifically designed products like a battlemats: http://www.chessex.com/mats/Battlemats_Megamats.htm

u/darjr · 2 pointsr/DnD

I've got a flip map, couple of them. And the tiles. I keep going back to the tiles. I also have a 36inch wide format color printer/plotter that helps. Also look into easel paper. They sell pads of it with a 1 inch grid.

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-3-Hole-Punched-Sheets-Carton/dp/B00AQDGJRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486869039&sr=8-1&keywords=easel+paper+1+inch+grid

u/Kalanth · 2 pointsr/mattcolville

You can also steel a page from the other Matt. Mercer uses easel graph paper and predraws the maps where the encounters will take place, laying out the disposable sheet for that engagement and tossing it when the encounter is completed. This tends to be a bit more costly at $40 - $50 per pad, but it does remain an option.

u/bworley90 · 2 pointsr/Dungeons_and_Dragons

I purchased this for my group. It's 1 inch grid paper.

You can draw whatever you want on it and make 1 inch 5 feet. It's pretty large so it's easy to see what's going on, and allows for BIG map design of you increase the moment per inch.

TOPS Standard Easel Pads, 3-Hole Punched, 27 x 34 Inch, 1" Grid, White, 50 Sheets/Pad, Carton of 2 Pads (7902)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQDGJRO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/kcunning · 1 pointr/Pathfinder_RPG

When I start a new AP, I'll go back and forth between reading the first book of the AP and looking at forum / blog posts about running it. I won't read the whole path, since it very well may not work for the group. I pay special attention to who the important NPCs are since I like to make sure that they're memorable, even if that book only has one short encounter.

Before a session, I have a list of things I try to get through:

  • Read the material for the current session as well as the next session. Even if I don't plan on running the next encounter, sometimes I'll cap a session that ran too quickly with some prep for the next few scenes.
  • Make an outline of scenes that I can reference during the game, with points I need to hit. I hate it when I accidentally forget to drop a key piece of information and have to work it in later.
  • Load up all of the NPCs and monsters in Hero Lab so that I know that they have no errors and that I don't have to buy any supplements.
  • If I have a complex layout that isn't combat heavy, I set up Roll20 maps
  • For any area that DOES have combat, I draw them out on [https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQDGJRO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1](large sheets of grid paper). We have the erasable mats, but I find those harder to draw on because they smudge.
  • Send out any notes to the players and ask for their HL portfolios

    I also tend to work a few sessions ahead, if I can, because I hate rushing stuff the day of the game.

    Back when I did home brew, I tried to think of sessions as very episodic: What's the set-up for this session, what's the pay-off, and how does it move the story forward? I'd write out the first few session in great detail, but be more vague as I planned out the rest of the story, since who knows how the players would effect the world?

    Your best bet to not get mired in world creation is to set a start date for the campaign. Whatever you have by then is what you're going with, and the rest will be improv, or will come to you between sessions. The best campaigns I've run have been ones where the background was fairly easy to grasp for most players. You can even start without a map. In my HBs, I started everyone in a small area and only bothered with mapping things out as they traveled.
u/TheEdExperience · 1 pointr/DnD

I don't DM, but I made a whole bunch of tokens for my party using washers and a 1-inch hole punch. The first batch will require some up front cash but once you get going, it'll be cheaper. I've also seen people use Magic cards. If you don't have a printer just get colored construction paper or something.

https://newbiedm.com/2008/11/22/newbiedm-tutorial-counters-tokens-or-pogs/

The edges tend to peel up so either make sure you glue the edges well or get something to protect the token.

Then just get something like:

https://www.amazon.com/TOPS-Standard-3-Hole-Punched-Sheets/dp/B00AQDGJRO/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2GVBW07SJC1RR&keywords=1+inch+graph+paper&qid=1555015575&s=gateway&sprefix=1+inch+graph%2Caps%2C271&sr=8-3

And use theater of the mind until there is actual battle. If it's not a combat encounter, no point in going through the trouble of tokens and drawing a map. Unless you want your players to think combat is possible.

u/protectedneck · 1 pointr/dndnext

You've got a couple of options. You can scale everything down. I did that with the Temple of Annam fight, since the room in 1-inch to 5-feet scale is almost 5 feet wide. Doing something like "each square is 15/30 feet" works pretty well to reduce the size of the map but still let you use minis. You just have to make sure that the players know about this an are understanding of any potential issues with distances. If you're still using 1inch scale minis then it'll involve handwaving stuff like how characters can't share 30 feet of space.

You can make a giant map. I like this for major locations. For example, the Thane Kayalithica stone giant fight I used foam core board from the dollar store that I cut into 6 18-inch squares and then carved a grid on them and painted it with cheap craft store paint. It took probably three hours to make. Was it necessary? No. But it was cool adding tiles to the table as players explored the darkened room.

Also an option is using large pads of paper with 1-inch squares on them. I wouldn't necessarily go with that one from Amazon since I think it's more expensive due to shipping, but you can pick up something like that from Staples easily. Also you don't necessarily have to get all of the room, just the part of the room the players are in/near.

Also theater of the mind works well for large spaces. I like having a small drawing of the room and the general position of any creatures/features so the players can visualize something. With the exception of the encounters in chapter 2 and the final fight with Iymrith, you aren't usually dealing with a lot of combatants, so it's decently easy to keep track of everything.

I've used a combination of all 4 options, depending on the amount of setup time I have, the relative importance of the encounter, and other factors. For example, one on one fights with creatures work best in the theater of the mind.

u/EarthAllAlong · 1 pointr/dndnext

I use this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-3-Hole-Punched-Sheets-Carton/dp/B00AQDGJRO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481062411&sr=8-4&keywords=1+inch+graph+paper

and draw my own maps with sharpies. They come out looking like this:

http://i.imgur.com/Q9pWlEP.jpg

Note that many locations in CoS are too big to fit on one of those sheets, which are 27x32. The amber temple I drew there is scaled to 10' per inch. It's not suitable for grid combat, but I still wanted to draw the map (and I plan on using a plastic battle mat and drawing the rooms real quick when combat occurs).

I just like to have maps for the players to move around on during a dungeon crawl because it helps them visualize the space.

So that paper works really well for the locations that are normal buildings, like the wizard of wines, the coffinmaker's shop, the basement of the church in barovia, even Argynvostholt is small enough that you can fit it to 5' scale on one sheet (you have to kind of leave the ruined side of Argynvostholt off the map, but no big deal). And if you need more room you can tape two of the sheets together.

As for Castle Ravenloft, I'm still not sure what I'm going to do. I could tape two sheets together but then my table isn't big enough to make that useable. The map of the castle that comes is an isometric 3d view which is really beautiful but even if you had it printed out, you couldn't really play on it...

On the other hand, Strahd will be hunting them through the castle since his main difficulty comes from the fact that he can just a lair action to just phase through walls--meaning he's going to be moving through the rooms pretty freely, so I think it's important to have them all modeled. I'm still not sure what I'll do. I want to draw the maps but it's just so huge. I might do the same thing I did with amber temple, and draw it in 10' scale, but then I'm stuck having to re-draw any room where combat takes place, and it makes combat between rooms cumbersome. IDK.

Things you can roll ahead of time to save time:

  • The content of the wagons at Tser Pool.

  • Initiative for all the monsters you KNOW will make appearances

  • Madnesses and traits for the mongrelfolk in the abbey

  • random encounters in castle ravenloft (lots of unoccupied rooms here)

  • the results of pulling the rope in K30

    -------------------------

    Some other random cool stuff I'd like to suggest you think about...

    Think about who should get the Blood Spear at Yester Hill. When they get there, the spirit of Kavan, a barbarian warlord, calls out to the most appropriate PC and invites them to take up the spear and rule the tribes. The spear's temp HP gain on kill works for anyone but the chosen PC gets to use it as a +2 spear. If you have an obviously perfect PC for this, like a barbarian, or a ranger or something, then that's great. My suggestion is that you give them weird prophetic dreams of this Kavan, as he gazes out over yester hill sometime long before strahd ever moved into the valley. I like the idea that he keeps a wary eye toward mount ghakis in these dreams, as a kind of very subtle warning against the amber temple. Basically show him, show the spear, maybe even show him doing battle with a giant goat, or a roc. Nice foreshadowing for when the party crosses tsolenka pass and fights these themselves. The chosen party member will probably have the spear by then and will sort of feel like they're really chosen by Kavan. Cool.

    Be aware of how dang easy it is to get on the bad side of the burgomaster of vallaki. As written he is very thin skinned. If you kick the party out of vallaki too early you're gonna cut off a bunch of quest threads. So be careful! If you have Izek play the way he's written, and immediately try to abduct Ireena, that is almost certainly going to lead to a fight and lead to the characters being kicked out of Vallaki. So definitely think about what you want to happen here. I kept Izek's creepy obsession and the dolls and all that, but I did not have him try to abduct her immediately. I may not have him do that at all because it's uncomfortably rapey. It just says he takes her to his bedroom...yeah idk, I didn't want to mess with that, you know?

    Also, don't feel like you have to spring the Bluto-Arrabelle event the very first time the party might go by the lake. Sometimes they will be too busy to want to deal with anything and if you pull the trigger there's no going back and arrabelle will be dead. The party will be in and out of Vallaki a lot so it's fine for this to be something that comes up the second time they arrive--especially if they are, say, coming back from the west, that way the vistani can stop them on their way in and ask if anyone's seen a little girl around. Then once in town, people are talking about Bluto acting strange/not showing up at the bar today. Etc.

    The 3 night hags at the windmill are beyond deadly for a level 4 party if you play them no-mercy. Just be aware of that fact. Lots of things in CoS are that way. The 6 vampire spawn in the coffinmaker's shop also qualify. Just be aware of this and make sure your players know that they can't necessarily kill everything they come across. Hags will be glad to make deals with the party rather than slaughter them, and the vampire spawn situation can be approached in such a way that it's manageable.

    Curate your tarokka deck readings. There is a greater than normal chance that items wind up somewhere in the castle. You should make the decision on whether this is something you want. The sword and symbol make things a lot easier on the party. You don't want them showing up too early, like at Tser Pool or somewhere easy like that, but you don't want them showing up right before the end of the game, either, probably. If you think your party would enjoy the card drawing aspect, you have a few options. Let them draw cards, but then whatever card they draw, just give them the reading you want out of it. Or you could simply build in redundancies, so that x card and y card both lead back to x card's location, in order to prevent y location from happening, but preserve some randomness. Of course then you run the risk of drawing X card and Y card back to back... in which case you can designate a spot for that, and default to it if that happens. It's messy, but it's better than all 3 treasures winding up in the basement of the castle or something impossible like that.

u/kOTAT · 1 pointr/DnD

I use a chessex map for on the fly encounters, but pre-draw all my dungeons on 1" gridded easel paper. It's a little more up front but has been working great.

TOPS Standard Easel Pads, 3-Hole Punched, 27 x 34 Inch, 1" Grid, White, 50 Sheets/Pad, Carton of 2 Pads (7902) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQDGJRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yq7kzbHTDD8YR

u/RTukka · 1 pointr/DnD

You only have to prepare the details for material that there's a high likelihood that the PCs will directly investigate and interact with, and even then not having that material prepared is pretty easy to deal with through improvisation and note-taking, as long as players won't be interacting with the thing in a highly technical way (e.g. combat) or unless the setting element is deeply interwoven with other elements.

So most of the buildings in the village don't need to be designed in detailed or have a specific designated location. When designing a village, I'd focus on determining what services are available that are pertinent to adventurers, and to what degree and in what form. Beyond that I'd focus my efforts more on establishing character, tone and ambiance with descriptive details, and ideas about how I want to portray the more notable NPCs before worrying too much about town and building layouts.

If you do want to get more in the weeds you can find nice tutorials on designing villages, and tools like Inkarnate.

For areas where you anticipate combat will occur, try to make the environments interesting by introducing at least some of the following: sources of cover and/or obscurement, difficult terrain, multiple elevations, traps, hazards and objects/terrain that can be interacted with or destroyed. Of course, you should try to include these elements in a way that's natural to whatever function the area serves in the world. For physically drawing or representing the maps, you can use a tool like Dungeon Painter Studio, though for home games I have been partial to gridded easel pads (local office supply stores or art supply shops may have better prices) and drawing out the maps in relatively simple detail.

u/randomwords42 · 1 pointr/DnD

We have been using something like this and it is working alright until we get a more permanent solution.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/dndnext

I don't like this idea, as most of those pads are only going to be good for one or two uses. However, best of luck.

Alternatively, I recommend these guys: http://www.amazon.com/Standard-3-Hole-Punched-Sheets-Carton/dp/B00AQDGJRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457476853&sr=8-1&keywords=1%22+easel+paper+graph

They end up being about $0.30 per page, nice and big, and allows you to draw new maps whenever you need them. I use them for big special battles or dungeons, with a small battlemap for positioning in smaller battles. I don't use maps for towns and cities, and just use descriptions.

u/funandgames51 · 1 pointr/DMAcademy


I make battle maps because I find that stuff fun - but you can make very simple ones!

I use this paper - it comes out to <50c per map.

Though you could just use butcher paper and a wooden dowel with one inch marks on it for for every 5 feet - that's what I'm doing after I run out of the grid Paper.

For city maps, I use this method.

Again, I spend more time with it because I like to, but less so when I too am pressed for time. You could likely make them very simple, and they would still look good and make sense.

I can post a few pictures of some of my town and battle maps when I get back if you're interested.

I tried to use premade maps to print initially, but it was both very expensive and hard to see. Again, I can post pics later if you want.

I'm trying to get my best friend into DMing, and I've encouraged him to look into these, which are available in many sizes. Wet erase marker for 30 seconds, bam a battle mat.

If you want something in the same vein that's a little more hardcore, there's these, which I may get if I run a less serious campaign in the future.

There's also Matt Coville's video onterrain that is very helpful. All of the stuff he puts out is, really.

Hope that helps!

u/da_chicken · 1 pointr/DnD

IMX, you'll also eventually need to clean the whole mat with something stronger than just water. Wet erase works pretty well, but eventually there's a buildup that you need soap and water and some time to clean off. And you absolutely must clean the mat at the end of every session. Never leave it for a week, or you'll never get the marker off cleanly.

I also really wish they would put "Wet erase only" around the edges. I've seen them that have that and I feel like it would result in fewer dry marker triggered murders.

Personally, I still prefer the 1" ruled easel tablets. With a bit of shopping you can find them for about $0.25 per page. You also have the advantage of being able to draw your maps before the game begins and placing them as needed or switching back and forth as needed.

u/meat_bunny · 1 pointr/DMAcademy

Hey, finally something I can answer from personal experience.

I was in a similar boat where I didn't want to sink a bunch of money into the game for a projector until I was sure the campaign was going to last a while.

You can get set up for months for about $45. If this is a problem see if your players can chip in $5-$10 each or something.

One inch grid paper is your friend. You can get 27x34 sheets of it off Amazon for about 32 cents a sheet ($31.99 for 100 sheets )

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQDGJRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iIo4AbG33KRFC

For minis you can use paper as well. I recommend getting 1" binder clips and printing off your own minis. You can buy 144 of these off of Amazon for $11

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2WB1RL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jRo4Ab0QTWK5S

I used Publisher, but there's a free version called Libre Office Draw. Make a bunch of 3x1 squares in it on an normal sheet of paper and put in images from Google for all of your monsters. You'll want to make them double-sided so the paper sticks up (One row right side down and the other right side up).

You can fit a lot on one sheet of paper. Then print them off either at home, work/school if they allow it, or do it at a print store for less than a dollar.

Let me know if you have any questions.

u/chrisndc · 1 pointr/DMAcademy

I do it a bunch of different ways. If it's a map I am coming up with on the fly, I usually just quickly draw it on a battle mat or dry erase board.

Sometimes I use donjon (like you did) and then draw it out on one inch grid paper. I just cover undiscovered parts of the map with paper.

I just tried out 2.5d for a battle with a vampire, this isn't the video I used to build mine, but it will give you an idea of what I'm talking about.

I've also tried the method of cutting the map into rooms to lay out as the party moves forward. This method makes it more difficult for the party to know the layout of the dungeon, which can be fun.

It's all just trial and error, in my opinion! Have fun!

u/FattyBuumBatty · 1 pointr/DungeonsAndDragons

The standard is 1in squares, this fits all licensed DnD miniatures. I have a large easel pad of 1in grid paper for known fight locations, and an erasable mat from chessex that I use for "off the cuff" situations.