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Reddit mentions of TP-Link Nano USB Wifi Dongle 150Mbps High Gain Wireless Network Adapter for PC Desktop and Laptops. Supports Win10/8.1/8/7/XP Linux 2.6.18-4.4.3, Mac OS 10.9-10.15 (TL-WN722N)

Sentiment score: 56
Reddit mentions: 108

We found 108 Reddit mentions of TP-Link Nano USB Wifi Dongle 150Mbps High Gain Wireless Network Adapter for PC Desktop and Laptops. Supports Win10/8.1/8/7/XP Linux 2.6.18-4.4.3, Mac OS 10.9-10.15 (TL-WN722N). Here are the top ones.

TP-Link Nano USB Wifi Dongle 150Mbps High Gain Wireless Network Adapter for PC Desktop and Laptops. Supports Win10/8.1/8/7/XP Linux 2.6.18-4.4.3, Mac OS 10.9-10.15 (TL-WN722N)
Buying options
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    Features:
  • USB WiFi Adapter: Exceptional wireless speed up to 150 Mbps brings the best experience for video streaming or internet calls
  • Ultimate Range: High gain antennas ensure superior range and stability. Version 2. 0
  • Secure: Easy wireless security encryption at a push of the WPS button
  • Industry Leading Support: 2-year and free 24/7 technical support
  • Compatibility: Windows (XP/7/8/8. 1/10) Mac OS (10. 9 -10. 15) Linux Kernel (2. 6. 184. 4. 3)
  • 150 Mbps wireless transmission rate Provides two methods of operation: Infrastructure and Ad-Hoc
  • 150Mbps wireless transmission rate Provides two methods of operation: Infrastructure and Ad-Hoc
  • Quick Secure Setup, complies with WPS for worry free wireless security Supports 64/128-bit WEP, complies with 128 bit WPA standard(TKIP/AES), supports MIC, IV Expansion, Shared Key Authentication, IEEE 802.1X
  • Standards: IEEE 802.11n, IEEE 802.11g, IEEE 802.11b Interface: USB2.0 Antenna Type: 4dBi Detachable Omni-directional Antenna
  • Wireless Speed:11n: Up to 150Mbps 11g: Up to 54Mbps 11b: Up to 11Mbps
  • Frequency Range: 2.4-2.4835GHz Wireless Transmit Power: 20dBm(MAX EIRP) Modulation Technology: OFDM/CCK/16-QAM/64-QAM
  • Work Mode: Ad-Hoc; Infrastructure Wireless Security: 64/128 bits WEP; WPA/WPA2, WPA-PSK/WPA2-PSK (TKIP/AES)
  • Support Operating System: Windows 7(32/64bits), Windows Vista(32/64bits), Windows XP(32/64bits), Windows 2000 Certifications: CE, FCC
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height0.43 Inches
Length3.7 Inches
Number of items1
SizeN150
Weight0.3990366906 Pounds
Width1.02 Inches

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Found 108 comments on TP-Link Nano USB Wifi Dongle 150Mbps High Gain Wireless Network Adapter for PC Desktop and Laptops. Supports Win10/8.1/8/7/XP Linux 2.6.18-4.4.3, Mac OS 10.9-10.15 (TL-WN722N):

u/Vsuede · 42 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Jesus christ...

It's a USB wireless adapter people - it's not a modem. Yes, good wireless routers are theoretically capable of high speeds. Adapters not as much. None of this has anything to do with ISP speed. This entire thing reeks of peasantry.

u/Nonethewiserer · 23 pointsr/buildapc

Try wifi. I've been using it for a couple years on my desktop with 0 issue. Great speed and no connectivity problems.

You have to figure out what works in your setup. Many people recommend PCI adapters if you go wireless, but USB works fucking great for me. Very happy with this http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1418551585&sr=8-3&keywords=tp+link+wireless+adapter

u/BeanerSA · 15 pointsr/buildapc

If it's short term, whatever is at least as fast as your internet connection. I'll assume you're in the US, so how about https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

u/imakepr0ngifs · 14 pointsr/HowToHack

Oh they’re connected to wifi?

I would set up a rouge wifi access point with same SSID and password as the existing one. If you need the password, you can dump it from the computer you have access to. Then you can send a single deauthentication packet to the MAC address for the target computer until it chooses your network (this is not a denial of service as you are forcing his computer to connect through your lab computer, which is still connected to the network)

From there, you can do network captures and control DNS. Do a network capture of port 80 (unecrypted) and DNS requests. He likely has software that automatically checked for software updates over HTTP (VLC does this, among others) every time he starts it.

Alternatively, you can rewrite a DNS request to cause windows to pop up a native windows login window via captive portal (the pop up you see at starbucks wifi)

Documentation here: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/drivers/mobilebroadband/captive-portals#cch

All in all, wifi makes things a lot easier. If you have an atheros/other wireless usb handy you can do all of this in ~15min or less.

Here’s the model I use:
TP-Link 150Mbps High Gain Wireless USB Adapter for PC and Laptops (TL-WN722N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NC40CbD87F441

It’s $15 and even if you don’t succeed, you’ll never have crappy wifi on campus again. I have 3 in my bag right now.

u/perennialExhaustion · 9 pointsr/SBU

The big metal thing up top is called Yagi antenna, which is basically just increases signal strength to nearby WiFi access points. Looks like this one

Connected to that is an external USB network adapter, looks like the awesome T-Link Archer or N150 connected to a USB extension.

​

So what OP is doing is extending range and connecting to a different nearby router, probably optimum wifi off campus or something.

​

EDIT: whoops, OP responded while i was typing. Didn't show up until now.

u/amd_kenobi · 8 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Make an all purpose travelpi.
Get a PI3, load it up with raspbian or your preferred OS and throw it together with this Screen and case combo. Add some heatsinks to keep it cool, put emulation station on there for all the downtime gaming action you could ask for. Then have some fun playing with accessories. Here's a bluetooth vehicle diagnostics monitor you can use with pyOBD to monitor any 96 and up vehicle to check gas mileage and check error codes. Here's a GPS module for logging miles and checking locations and for the times you just absolutely must get wifi no matter what heres an adapter and antenna that will reach out and touch someone in the next country.

Edit: game pads

u/Finnocci · 7 pointsr/HowToHack

study for CompTIA A+.

They teach you stuff that a normal every-day user wouldn't need to concern themselves with, like OSI layers, types or protocols and standards for data transition. I think it also covers some aspects of security like what hashing is, types of encryption, and gets you used to some tech lingo that an average user may not understand.

After that, go for Network+, it dives deeper into...well, computer networks.

Plenty of free resources for both certifications online. And if you do decide to test for the certifications, they look real gucci on your resume if you have no prior IT experience.

After that, if you have some spare dough, pick up a cheap used laptop for probably $150 or so, and probably pick up one of these guys as well. You don't need any fancy specs. Just enough for you to download Ubuntu and learn linux, setup a challenge for yourself to navigate the operating system using the terminal and the terminal only. That includes installing new programs, opening up files, executing scripts, everything. No double clicking allowed, limit yourself from using the GUI of the OS as much as possible. If you want something done, learn to use the terminal to do it first.

And imo it's really important to do it in that order. Don't be like a lot of people, who thinks buying a laptop and a airmon-ng compatible wifi adapter will make them all set to start becoming a 1337 hacker, and lost interest in a month or two and have basically just wasted their money. Hacking really doesn't have a set course, but if you find yourself with enough interest and discipline to grind through two boring (but very informative) certifications, I believe that then you know you are in the right field. Mostly, you pick up pieces of knowledge here and there, no book is gonna be a fit-all solution towards becoming a hacker. It is the sum of those pieces of knowledge, that makes a hacker a hacker.

u/limited-papertrail · 6 pointsr/privacy

Do you have an Android smart phone or tablet?
If so, DL the Wiggle wifi app.

With it running, you can walk around the property and better triangulate various signals.

If you have a macbook, you can do the same thing pretty much with Kismac. I use WiFiFoFum to do it with an iPhone, but it requires jailbreaking.

Subnet Insight is an absolutely amazing app for iPhone for taking keeping track of your local network and keeping it safe. It's $5, and the only non-free software I'm linking.

If you have an external wireless adapter, or are willing to spend $15-$30 on a specialized one, I can walk you through putting it in monitor mode and really getting the the bottom of the issue.

Here's a simple tp-link USB wifi adapter you can use to monitor all transmissions over B/G/N wifi, [for only $11 amazon prime.] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG). Here's a very high quality (and foolproof) directional antenna you can use to make it much more effective for less than $30.


^Also ^a ^lot ^of ^the ^advice ^you've ^gotten ^so ^far ^is ^pretty ^badummmmm, ^or ^too ^complicated ^w/out ^better ^context.
But don't be discouraged. Network internals & also wifi/radio signals are complex topics, but the basics are accessible enough to pick up quickly in your situation.

u/nikto11 · 6 pointsr/buildapc

I have this usb adapter that I use from time to time, and this which I use pretty much all the time and have had for about 2 years. I like being able to move the antenna to get a better signal, right now it's velcro'd to the wall behind my bed.

If you go the usb route I'd probably buy a larger one that I have that has external antennas, like http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1421374210&sr=8-8&keywords=usb+wifi. But I'd still go PCI if you use it a lot, probably last longer and have a better quality connection.

u/yardmonkey · 5 pointsr/hacking

I think you're mixing issues... Klisch will certainly let you install software or drivers if you need.

And antennas don't need drivers or software, it's the card that needs a driver.

I use an Alfa external card, and Amazon will recommend several antennas if you need more than that.

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-802-11b-Wireless-Original-9dBi/dp/B001O9X9EU

I've also heard good stuff about TPLink external cards. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

u/ItsADanThing · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Unfortunately most gaming headsets are quite overpriced, a popular option without spending a lot is this mic that clips onto normal headphone wires ($8) maybe get that and save up for a better headset or some good headphones and a modmic.

For the internet if you have to use wireless get the internal card, if you can run an ethernet cable do that and consider a cheap usb adapter for interim.

u/MermenRisePen · 3 pointsr/libreboot

I like this TP-Link one. It has an external antenna, and is one of few that has free firmware in Linux so it works out-of-the-box.

u/Galeanthrope · 3 pointsr/linux_gaming

You can download the last version of the linux-firmware package from Debian Sid repository and install it. If it doesn't work there is ndispwrapper but it's way more simple to buy a 15$ working USB adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SZEOLG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494029810&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=722n

u/minimuminim · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Buy a wifi adapter, they're like $15.

u/l3af_on_the_wind · 3 pointsr/HowToHack

Alfa cards are great for most things you need to do for any kind of wireless hacking. However, not too long ago I ran into a few issues where mine wasn't compatible with some tools I was trying to use. I got this and it worked for me. You just need to do some research and make sure whatever you get is compatible for what you will be doing with it.

u/leboulanger007 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I have been using this USB Wi-Fi adapter without any problems since the past couple months. Super cheap and easy to set up, works perfectly.

u/n0coder · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Absolutely. They sell wifi usb adapters and such if you don't have a built in wifi on the motherboard. I'm assuming you have wifi provided some where.

An example: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

*Edit: example added.

u/tacsquid · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

eh that's what happens when I try to do shit with my phone

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-2-4HGz-RP-SMA-Screw--Antenna/dp/B003ZWPRUI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465983658&sr=8-1&keywords=alfa+panel

AMP makes a very noticeable difference but I don't think it's really putting a full 2W. It's cheap though so worth it IMO. Range depends entirely on location, elevation, weather, and what you are "shooting into". Starbucks into an office building is going to have a lot shittier range than say the top of a parking garrage down into a park.

This is basically my "what a hacker might use" set up. The panel, amp, and a NHA and NHR alfa worked great for long range but had some issues with missing packets in Kali. I found the best collection was using airpap cards in Windows wireshark and running attacks via the alfa set up in a Kali Vm.

Also needless to say the airpcap nx card with the 2 external antennas was king but it's a freaking $700 wifi card so it better be.

https://www.cacetech.com/documents/AirPcap%20Nx%20Datasheet.pdf

If you can get 3-4 airpcap classic cards off ebay for cheap (I found 3 for $200) each one can cover 20 mhz of spectrum and you can link them in aggregate with the airpcap control panel. This makes it highly effective for a leave behind collection device against a router that self adjusts. Price might put it out of the range of a regular hacker and more into the industrial espionage price range. You may be able to find an NX for cheap on ebay it seems like cace is getting out of the market with the whole airpcap line so they are getting kinda rare.

edit

also don't forget the noble cantenna. Looks shady as fuck but it's good if you're on a college student budget. You can usually get them just as good as an alfa panel antenna, they just look like a big sign that says "i am up to no good". Make sure if you are using an alfa with an RP SMA connector to build it out of an RP sma and not a regular SMA. Ie fit the pieces together and make sure they're the right kind before you start doing anything.

http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/cantennahowto.html

edit edit

also check this little guy out. I found him out after I finished my 802.11 stuff but i like it a little better than the alfa cards. Doesn't come with a super fancy antenna when you buy it but it's a lot cheaper and just as good once you put a panel or cantenna on it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/PissyPoops · 2 pointsr/HowToHack

This is what I use. Pretty good range and the chipset jives with Linux.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SZEOLG/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/qrv3w · 2 pointsr/coolgithubprojects

The overhead is not too bad. You can use any normal power supply for a Pi, and then buy a $13 WiFi adapter with monitor mode like this. If you are using Raspberry Pi 3, which have builtin regular WiFi for the communication, then each node costs ~$60. This is less than half the price of the similar dedicated hardware out there.

I think you should ideally have N-1 Pis, where N is the number of rooms you want to learn. With smart placement you can probably get by for less. I haven't tried Pi Zeros, but they should be able to be used as well, since this is not too CPU intensive.

u/mattbuford · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

You are correct. In my experience, this is generally not a problem. The hotel is probably giving you a slower uplink anyway. Or, even if you're not getting max speed, you're getting plenty to watch Netflix easily.

I'm not aware of a native two-radio travel router. However, being that I am a network engineer and interested in this kind of thing, I eventually ended up looking for a dual radio solution just to see if I could make it work. If nothing else, at least this gets my LAN traffic off the same frequency as the other nearby hotel guests on my same hotel AP.

I started with a Ravpower Filehub that I already had. I was going to link you to the Amazon page for it, but it appears they have reused the same page to sell a new version of the device that doesn't look like mine and I don't know if it can be used in the same way. The one I have looks like this:

http://www.getdatgadget.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/RAVPower-All-In-One-FileHub-3.jpg

That travel router is nice because it has a built in USB battery bank. That can be nice when you're trying to find the magic spot in the hotel where wifi is strong enough. I find the best positioning without cables, then plug it in.

I installed OpenWRT on it and went looking for a USB wifi radio to add on. OpenWRT has limited support for USB wifi radios, and in fact I couldn't find anything 802.11ac. I eventually found this dual-band N adapter, which is supported:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG

This gives me a true two-radio solution. The USB radio is dual-band and the internal radio is 2.4 only. OpenWRT isn't a super user-friendly solution, but it works for me. For example, it is up to me manually to set the LAN/AP channel to make sure it isn't simply sitting on the same channel as the WAN/client radio.

I have used this in a number of hotels (I travel a lot) and it works well with my Chromecast. This gets me past the captive portals on the Chromecast, and also on devices that are technically captive portal capable but annoying (like the Kindle). One login on any device is all it takes for all of my devices, no matter how many or which ones I bring.

I've even used it in a hotel with 128 kbps Internet that was too slow to stream. I was able to use Plex on my laptop to stream local content across the travel router's LAN to the Chromecast. The slow Internet WAN wasn't enough to stream on, but it was enough for the Chromecast to load apps and consider itself connected to the net.

One caveat: Some hotels limit the max speed of each client. If you log into their network with your phone and laptop as different clients, they each get a share. If you use a travel router, they both have to share a single client's allocation.

Random other advice: You know how streaming sticks often come with a short 3-inch or so HDMI extension cable? Use it. One of the hotel TV HDMI ports destroyed my Chromecast's HDMI connector (it actually pushed one of the pins on the Chromecast's HDMI connector back), and it would have been better if it had just destroyed the HDMI extension cable.

u/jpierini · 2 pointsr/hacking

I have had great results with this card:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG

u/Mikedownbytheriver · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

I have a sliding door partition to separate the driving area from the rear. I'm able to VHB tape my Outdoor Antenna to my immediate right of my drivers side head rest looking straight out the window. Works great. If you have time warner cable in your area you'll be able to bum a friends or family login information and pickup hotspots all across the city.


I have the outdoor antenna wired from the front running to the rear by attaching a N Male to RP-SMA cable -----> high gain usb wifi adapter N150 works fine ------> using a usb extension cable connect laptop.



Also if you wanted to connect multiple devices you would want to look into hooking up a repeater to your external antenna. I was thinking about building a raspberry pie with a miniature lcd + connected to a router programmed for a repeater. I would be able to connect / program different wifi networks on the fly.....however my setup above works fine for me.

u/mrstejdm · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

As someone who had a hell of a time with Wireless Adaptors under linux I can safely say that I finally have one that just works. The TP-Link TL-WN77N works on Ubuntu 13.04 without issue. Plug and play, it also supports Windows 2000+ (Win8 is in beta but works fine).

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377603967&sr=8-1&keywords=tp+link+tl+wn722n



u/triscious · 2 pointsr/HowToHack

I've used the TP Link TL-WN722N a lot with good results and have bought a couple of them; however, the price seems to be going up for some reason so I'm not sure if it's as great of a deal.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505216714&sr=8-1&keywords=tp+link+tlwn722n

u/akz007 · 2 pointsr/IndianGaming

Personally using a tp link one (one with an Antena. 600rs.).
It worked with no issues. Having a 50mbps connection. No drops in speeds, coverage and no latency problems either.

TP-Link TL-WN722N 150Mbps Wireless USB Adapter https://www.amazon.in/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-DFODb4AAY6MZ

u/sillyinches · 2 pointsr/HowToHack

i like this one. external antenna capable, supports any mode you could need, dirt cheap and prime'able.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG

u/RatherNott · 2 pointsr/linuxhardware

Sorry for the late response Devinmaking, I looked over that motherboard, and as far as I can tell, it should run Linux without issue. It has an older audio codec (Realtek ALC887), so any recent kernel will support it. It also has an Intel LAN chip, which are known for having excellent support in Linux.

As for Wifi, most any Intel or Atheros based card will work without issue. However some Realtek and Broadcom based Wifi cards can a hassle to set up, or not be supported at all.

AFAIK, both the TP-Link TL-WN722N and Panda 300Mbps Wireless N USB Adapter are supported by most distros.

As for using a spare router as a repeater, I haven't ever done that myself, but I think you'll have to make sure the spare router is as fast as your other equipment, otherwise it will limit the speed by being the weakest link in the chain. So for instance if it's only a Wireless G router, and your other equipment is faster Wireless N stuff, you'll only run at the slower G speeds. If your internet connection is slower than the rated Wireless G speeds anyway, then none of that matters. :)

Anyway, hope that helps. \^_^

u/MGC3 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've used the TP-link Wireless Adapter before and it's been pretty reliable and cheap. Lasted me through two different builds before I decided to upgrade. I linked the usb version but they have a PCIe version as well.

If you have a nicer router with features like dual band, AC, etc. then consider saving up for a nicer high end wireless adapter to take advantage of higher speeds. I'm currently using the Asus USB N53 and it's been reliable too.

u/ZeroHex · 2 pointsr/worldnews

You mean one of these?

The wifi range on that is about 820 ft, less than the depth of the ocean in the area the plane went down. The structure of the black box would probably inhibit that signal somewhat, and the water even more so (yay thermoclines). Even then that doesn't really help us much because if you're within the wifi range in the area where it's most useful (on land) then you can probably already see the crash site pretty easily.

And hey, guess what? They already have multiple black boxes on planes. You can't really guarantee that floating would help them though, because they're just as likely to get trapped under wreckage as anything else that floats. These black boxes also give off a radio signal that can be tracked, although as we saw with the Malaysia Airlines flight this also has its limitations.

u/Cool-Beaner · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I second this.
If you are looking for low speed or close range, any tiny generic WiFi dongle will work. If you want some speed, or need to get some distance, take a look at something like this.

u/PM-ME-YOUR-UNDERARMS · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

yikes. I barely touch -80dBm
The link you posted seems kinda expensive for something that may not work in my case.
Will this antenna and this adapter work?

u/nakedspacecowboy · 2 pointsr/Kali_Linux_Essentials

Were you able to connect before using macchanger? If not, it's not a Kali or macchanger thing, it's a visualization thing. VMs don't not have direct access to host hardware, the guest OS is separated from the host by a hypervisor.

If you already know this, I'm not trying to sound condescending. It's just a common question on here. I've gotten a bridged adapter to recognize my wifi as a wired connection before, but I can't remember how I did it. Maybe I am remembering incorrectly. Google around if you want, but it's infinitely easier to get a USB adapter or use a wired connection. I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

There are better ones out there and people on this sub will usually recommend a better one, can't remember which one. Anyway, you'll want one capable of packet injection.

u/PM_ME_YOUR_JDM_CAR · 2 pointsr/HowToHack

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/

Another option for you if money is tight, it should be the n150 option. I own this and it works out of the box with kali via live usb and also works in windows10.

u/mhero94 · 2 pointsr/wifi

Wow, i feel like we are issue twins :D * excuse the humor *

I had exactly similer issue 6 monthes ago wifi was highly capped on my laptob at around 4 - 7 mb/s while my other devices are 40 - 50 mb/s

anyhow for me at least it was internal card issue maybe weaken over time or something,

another reason for you maybe that your intenal card is forced to use 802.1g/b please check next time you in hotel which gives you terrible bandwidth options ( go to task mamanger - > Performance tab - > wifi -> look for connection type ) .

MY SOLUTION :

i bought 2 cheap USB adapters : TP link's Wn722n and Wn823n each 24 $ or something

and Ta da, my speed was up to roof back to normal range of other devices (using the antenna based wn722n right now), i dont really suggest it unless u dont mind the size but overall i had better range with it than with wn823n, please hence both are single band 2.4 .
Links :

wn823n : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088TKTY2/

wn722n : https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG

if money aint a big issue i still suggest the Alfa dual long range because its state of art and long term usage friendly and when you get bored of it easy sell used .

u/specialko89 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

The 150mbps, when I bought it it was just under $20 and the other one was around $40 I think. The other one isn't the 300mbps it's the AC600. They both look the same and with an antenna, just one has higher bandwidth and can use 5ghz network, the 150 is only 2.4 ghz compatible.

Now you can get the AC600 for under $20, good deal.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N-Version/dp/B002SZEOLG?th=1

u/JokerSlayer65 · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

I ordered a tp link wireless adapter on Amazon that can handle up to 150mb/s you just plug it into your motherboards USB port. [Here's a link.] (TP-Link N150 Wireless High Gain USB Adapter (TL-WN722N), Version 2.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)



u/ELS · 2 pointsr/3DS

Thanks for the guide! I used it to set up Homepass on Windows 10 with the TL-WN722N tonight. I had to disable my MAC filter on my router's 2.4 GHz band before it would work (in retrospect, this is obvious since the MAC address of the wireless adapter is cycling through the entries BASE256.txt).

I'm not sure how current the list in BASE256.txt is; after getting 10-20 streetpasses within an hour, I got only one in three hours.

u/Omneus · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Be aware that using that 60 Hz monitor, you won't benefit from >60 fps which you might get using a 1070 at 1440p (obviously depending on the game).

This is the wireless adapter I use, great:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG

u/pseudo_mccoy · 2 pointsr/Piratebox

pi zero - $5.00

pins - $8.95

wifi adapter* - $13.33

right angle USB ports - $5.64

USB battery - $3.99

micro-mini usb cable - $2.89

Total: $39.80

*I used an Alfa AWUSO36NH but the TP-LINK TL-WN722N should work. More information on compatible network adapters here.

The optional Illuminated LED shutdown switch makes this device easier to use but costs an additional $16.99


About

PirateBox software runs on inexpensive hardware to connect users over an offline wifi network. Join it and your browser redirects to a simple interface where you can share files, chat, and stream video.

Pifm is a small program you can install in a Raspberry Pi PirateBox, aka “pi(rate)box.” It can broadcast on FM radio to inform potential users about the PirateBox wifi network, play uploaded music, and with a USB microphone Pifm lets you talk live to your audience.

Improvements

The first version of this project was well received so I'm back to share design and documentation improvements. Pi(rate)FM Zero is now fully self contained. It turns on and off with a button press and can automatically broadcast information about the wifi network over empty FM stations at user defined intervals.

Why not use a car/smartphone FM trasmitter?

You totally could. It might even be better in some situations if you don't mind a slightly larger, more expensive device with an extra battery to charge. Keep in mind you'd lose the ability to live broadcast with a microphone or play audio directly from the PirateBox.

Going forward

In my next version I'd like to improve the PirateBox interface and make a way for users to rate playlists while having Pifm automatically play the highest ranked tracks. Users could upload music and vote on which tracks gets played. It'd be your own personal short range interactive digital-analog radio station hosted on a private intranet.

Bonus**

Here's a .img file for your convenience. Just install it to an SD card (at least 4 gb) and run it in a Pi Zero to get started. Note: auto broadcast on FM isn't enabled by default so you'll need to add a cronjob as detailed in the guide if you want to activate this feature.

u/xc0mr4de · 2 pointsr/buildapc

PCIE version and USB version cuz I was just wondering if generally pcie is faster better than usb one or the other way around.

u/MoDaBro · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Honestly, a range extender is not an ideal wireless solution for online gaming. Your N600 adapter is likely also a part of the problem that you have. If it is possible, your best option is to run a long ethernet cable to your router. If that is not possible, I would try getting a better wifi adapter for your pc. I would strongly recommend a pci adapter for a better connection. If you have to get a USB adapter, then at least get one with an external antenna. I currently have this usb adapter that works well enough for me. Some reviews say that they get connection drops but I had no problems with it so far. I play with ~50ms pings and rarely get ping spikes higher than 100ms. I guess that it wouldn't hurt to try to get a different router from Comcast. But again, a long ethernet cable is your best option.

u/jfoodge · 2 pointsr/pcmods

+1 for PCI

I game and have never had problems connecting unless it was ISP side (boo comcast). I also stream Netflix and Amazon without any signal issues.

I use [this PCI-E adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104552&sr=8-2&keywords=tp-link+pci+wifi) with good results. They also make regular [PCI] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN751ND-Wireless-Adapter-Low-profile/dp/B005FUGPP4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104552&sr=8-4&keywords=tp-link+pci+wifi) depending on what you have available. I'm sure the Rosewill one is quite good too.

I also picked up something similar to [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-ANT2405C-Desktop-Omni-directional-Antenna/dp/B001VEAI74/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104686&sr=8-11&keywords=tp-link+antenna) to help with my signal, since my room is quite far from my router. It will give you some flexibility on your antenna placement, and gave me a huge boost in signal.

For your purposes either would probably work but I prefer having the cleaner look of a PCI card and I'm under the assumption that there is better power/bandwith going through PCI. If you do go with USB, I suggest something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104921&sr=8-14&keywords=usb+wifi) where you can add on an optional antenna if you have signal issues.

u/sensei247 · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

This should be relatively simple (maybe 2 evenings of your time)

Materials (Amazon):

u/OnlineDegen · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Thanks! I checked out that product on Amazon. It seemed to have mixed reviews, but this one also seemed pretty good: http://amzn.com/B002SZEOLG

TP Link TL-WN722N

I figured I'd post in case this comes up in a search someone else does in the future. They may find this helpful.

u/ImAnEnabler · 1 pointr/hacking

get a TP-LINK TL-WN722N. I've been using it for a while and am very happy with it.

u/SiliconeClone · 1 pointr/3DS

The TP-Link WN722N is working for me. I literally set this up three days ago and it is working awesome.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/arbitrarytext · 1 pointr/buildapc

Could someone recommend a PCI Express card that's equal or better than this TP-LINK TL-WN722N? I need it for Kali Linux.

u/kaosctrl510 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I've tried running a 100-ft ethernet cable from my PC to the router. At first, I wanted to test it. So in the living room, you could just see a giant pile of wire that connected from my room to the room where the router is. If it worked out well, I was going to have it "installed properly", but after a few days, it just stopped working.

I am using this wifi adapter for my PC. The router my family uses is from AT&T, which I'm pretty sure is this one.

u/Britacorn · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

So I was thinking about buying this wireless adapter: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002SZEOLG?keywords=TL-WN722N%20Wireless%20N150%20wireless%20adapters&qid=1450320774&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
I get about 5 mbps on my current laptop . I play games and I was wondering if this is going to decrease my internet performance in any way. Im about 30 feet away from my router

u/marginflex · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Okay thank you. Can you please explain to me the differences between the TP-LINK Archer C7, the C5, the Nighthawk AC5300, and the Nighthawk R7000?

In addition to one of the above routers, I will get two of these TP-Link Dongles for the two S400CA's and change my network to 5GHZ.

Does this set-up make sense?

u/Dalilbumb · 1 pointr/tails

I use this one and it works perfectly

TP-Link N150

u/Axx06 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I use This one from TP link. If you want one that goes in your PC, they have a version of this one for that.

u/thorinokenshield · 1 pointr/tails

I use the following TP-Link adapter. On amzon its $12.99, however I bought it locally under $`10. Best idea to buy from a local shop with cash rather than credit card. This will help you by not having any trail of purhasing the device if things go wrong with your Tails use.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_5/136-3697593-4574145?ie=UTF8&qid=1526568345&sr=8-5&keywords=tp-link+wireless+adapter

I am using it with Mac and it's working good. The only drawback is it's Wifi-N not AC.

u/rontor · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm fond of this one if you don't mind USB.

u/LegendaryRav · 1 pointr/techsupport

Is there any chance you can get the exact name of your wireless card? you can simply go to the maker's website and try updating your drivers.

Also I'd like to know the motherboard, its hard to tell now whether you have a dedicated wireless card, or you're using one thats built into your motherboard.

As for my recommendations you should definitley stay on rj45 if you plan on doing any fps games or anything that require low ping, but if you need a replacement if wifi is the only option, you can go for this or this (depending how much gain from the antennae you need).

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1426397992&sr=1-1&keywords=wireless+adapter

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1426397941&sr=8-16&keywords=wireless+adapter

u/_OblivioN_ · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I would recommend GIGABYTE Model GC-WB867D-I. I've been using it for almost 5 months now and it has performed so much better than this cheap usb wifi adapter I had for a short time. On the Gigabyte, downloading on 5 GHz, it will be at a constant 30 to 35 Mbps. Whereas on the usb adapter, downloading on 2.4 GHz, it would constantly bounce from 30 Mbps to 5 Mbps. Really annoying when playing online with the ping jumping from 45 ms to 500 ms. My router probably plays a roll in this, but ill be switiching to a AC router soon.

Back to the Gigabyte, the wifi chipset is the Intel AC 7260 that supports 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz and Bluetooth 4.0. The 7260 a mini pcie, which fits in a laptop. You can buy just the Intel AC 7260 itself, but for a couple dollars extra, you get a black mini pcie to pcie adapter of you want to use it on a desktop.

u/Metaxu · 1 pointr/hacking

Let's get down to buisness.

First off you need to start with your wireless card. What operating system are you running on? Kali Linux is a great OS to run off a thumb drive (Or Nexus, Or rasperry pi even) and it comes with all the programs you need to get going. The card you have needs to support monitor mode and packet injection in order to crack a pass. I know that the TP-Link TL-WN722N works well for this. Find a site to check the model of your current card and look for monitor mode capabilties and packet injection support.

Next we need to boot into kali linux. Kali has a fantastic amount of programs for you to use and im going to leave it up to you. It's a matter of preference. Also worth noting, in a unix terminal the command
ifconfig
can find the name of your wireless adapter (wlan0, wlan1, ect ect).

You wont have any issues trying to crack a password which is protected by WEP but WPA might give you some difficulty. Also dont forget to slow down and take some time to learn about what you're really doing! Thats the only way to really learn. Hope this helps.

u/Skatchan · 1 pointr/buildapc
And I am finished. Don't you dare make any alterations to this as by the time you have I will have ordered it.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor | £87.59 @ Aria PC
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard | £38.65 @ CCL Computers
Memory | GeIL Enhance CORSA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | £40.99 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £49.32 @ Scan.co.uk
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card | £220.79 @ Overclockers.co.uk
Case | Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | £34.98 @ Novatech
Power Supply | XFX 450W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | £34.99 @ Maplin Electronics
Optical Drive | Samsung SN-208DB/BEBET DVD/CD Writer | £9.99 @ Amazon UK
Monitor | LG E2242T-BN 21.5" Monitor | £91.53 @ Amazon UK
Keyboard | Gigabyte GK-KM6150 Wired Standard Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | £9.06 @ Scan.co.uk
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | £617.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-28 20:21 BST+0100 |

+ http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1375037900&sr=8-10&keywords=wireless+adapter
u/eclark5483 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have several suggestions for that. On the USB side, go with a TP-Link TL-WN722N: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG (install only the drivers, use the website's version, not the disc)

In addition to that, pick up one of these no matter which of the options I show you, you'll thank yourself over and over: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UBUE2O

Next, on the PCI front, you'll want to use a NETIS WF-2118 300Mbps Wireless N PCI Adapter: https://www.newegg.com//p/N82E16833389021

Unless, by PCI you mean PCI-E, then in that case, get a FebSmart Wireless AC 1200Mbps Dual Band PCI Express (PCIe) Wi-Fi Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DBPLXWK

And again, no matter which you choose, pick up the high gain antenna(s) to go along with it, be sure to report back too, wanna see what you gained, and good luck. My daughter had the same trouble at college with her laptop, the high gain antenna fixed her right up. This might just be your only problem, hard to say.

u/Boxdog · 1 pointr/linuxmint

I have been using this with Lenovo Yoga 13 and Mint 18, it sticks out a little bit more than I would like but it works. no setup

u/bbdale · 1 pointr/hackintosh

I have this thing, hasn't failed me yet.

I dunno if its the best one out there but it works well in both Windows and Linux, so presume it should work in Mac as well. Picked it up for basically nothing when Newegg Randomly gave me a $10 gift card a little while back.

u/zsaile · 1 pointr/techsupport

> WUSB6300

I dont think that USB card is supported. I have a card with the same chipset "RTL8812AU" however i was not able to get it work in Linux for this purpose.

You'd need to purchase a card compatible with Kali and airodump such as this(2.4 ghz only) or have a look here

Once you have one of these you'd need to install Kali linux on your laptop, or more easily boot it up using VMware player.

Once you have kali, plug in your USB card and pass it through to the VM using the VMware "removable devices" menu.

In linux fire up a vm and run the following commands:

> Unlock the cards

rfkill unblock all

> Check which interface the card uses

airmon-ng

> Kill any processes whic might interfere

airmon-ng check kill

> place the card into monitor mode, assuming your card is wlan0, replace with the name you find above

airmong-ng start wlan0

> This should place the card in monitor mode, and rename it something like wlan0mon. Now scan the entire 2.4 ghz band to find the channel your router is on

airodump-ng --band g wlan0mon

> From this list which comes up, find the channel which your SSID is on in the list, then run airodump-ng with the specific channel, for example channel 11

airodump-ng -c 11 wlan0mon

> Now your card is in monitor mode, and scanning channel 11. Now you can fire up wireshark to see whats happening. Boot up wireshark through the menu or cli, and then start a capture on your card wlan0mon. Once you see the packets coming through, in wireshark enter the following filter to see only deauth frames

wlan.fc.type_subtype eq 12

You should now see deauth frames which are coming over the air to any clients.

Let me know if you have any issue or questions if you do try this.

u/DZCreeper · 1 pointr/buildapc

Don't get that one. It came out before 802.11n was official, meaning that it is a old model from the draft days.

Get this instead if you can: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/

u/cRaziMan · 1 pointr/buildapc

TP-Link TL-WN722N Wireless USB Adapter seems to have gotten amazing reviews so I've ordered it.

I can't compare it to others or even tell you what this one is like because I've not actually got it yet.

u/MagnusTheRabbit · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Works really well. Range wise is good, and this one can do the monitoring mode if you're into that.

Here's an amazon link for the curious

u/Coconuttommo · 1 pointr/buildapc

just put togther a very simila build. if your not oing to overclock then dont get a 2500K, you will then need to get a cpu cooler also to get the benefit so its really ~£30 more. A small (60GB) SSD on the otherhand is a very god investment to run OS + a few game off.

A wifi adaptr will be required, i dont think there is much performance difference between PCe and USB as I doubt this is where to botteneck is, I just got this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WN822N-300MBPS-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B003VIY03Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345121215&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1345121215&sr=8-3 this was the consenus when someone ased about wifi adapters last week, but I'm open to hear better suggestions

u/jcolts23 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've been using this one for the past 18 months. I haven't had any problems with it.

You do have to install the driver/utility for this, a cd is included with it on it. But, if you don't have a cd drive you can download it from the manufacturer website on a pc with internet, put it on a usb drive and then plug it into you pc and install it.

u/ktwoart · 1 pointr/Seattle

For $35, you'll likely be able to find a decent wifi connection if you get a USB wifi adapter and a yagi antenna...and you might not even need the external antenna.

Also, CenturyLink seems to be overwhelmed right now as I've noticed my neighbors complaining about it taking 2-3 weeks to have their land lines repaired as existing customers. I'm not sure if this is due to the holiday or they're rolling out a ton of new gigabit ethernet subscribers and their techs are just that swamped. It seems trivial to turn up or troubleshoot locations with previous or existing service when compared to a new install, so it doesn't make much sense to me.

u/ZiRALiX · 1 pointr/buildapc

tp-link usb wireless adapter

If the one I have failed I'd get another (lasted 2 yrs so far). Low ping, low jitter, no problems. There's nothing more to want.

I think I got it at $10 but it's usually $15.

u/kasperia · 1 pointr/HowToHack

The one I use is a TP-LINK TL-WN722N and its $12.25 on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

u/wander-man · 1 pointr/vandwelling

get one of these if wifi signal isn't enough. Was a life saver when I was living in an suv not by choice

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've had good luck with TP link, since you're going to be a bit far from the source try and get something with an external antenna like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O4ZFzbVR3CWMP?sa-no-redirect=1&th=1

u/stevemac00 · 1 pointr/synology

You can add a $15 wifi usb dongle like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_Ynd3CbQS8FQ9Y

i don't know about media station apps but all the apps I use are well engineered and updated.

u/nxtreme · 1 pointr/amateurradio

I made something similar using one of these USB WiFi devices, a director and reflector made of copper wire, and a rectangle of plastic from a food container. Worked wonderfully, the quick tests I did showed a ~4 dB signal gain.

u/SirBaronBamboozle · 1 pointr/HowToHack

While there may be cheaper, IMO this is the best bang for your buck. I use it and know others that use it. Works great with Linux, airmon-ng, and wireshark

TP-Link N150 Wireless High Gain USB Adapter (TL-WN722N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0fzozbQ54J4ES

u/visidage · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

If you use an internal one you can prevent yourself form installing another GPU, and in some cases (many microatx boards) you can't have a GPU plus any PCI-e 1x device. Get a USB one. They are easier to install, move around for better signal, and can go from pc to pc with no problems. I'd reccomend http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU or http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG for cheap ones. The second will have better signal.

u/clipsco · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I really love the tplink wn722n...
TP-Link N150 Wireless High Gain USB Adapter (TL-WN722N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ua.QybBX8QGEV

u/vadan1234 · 1 pointr/seytopia

Do you mean to switch it on and off?
Or, do you want to remotely trigger DeAuthing (or other NodeMCU functions)?
If you want to DeAuth remotely, I would recommend getting a USB wifi dongle for Pi that supports it and running a simple script (Dongle: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG Script: https://github.com/DanMcInerney/wifijammer)

u/tonyviv · 1 pointr/hometheater

It just depends on your application and needs. There are a lot of decent refurb options under $220 here http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/category/avreceiver/home-audio/receivers-amps/home-theater-receivers/1.html. Personally I'd probably opt for the Onkyo TX-NR525. I have the newer model with built-in wireless networking and BT but you could easily add this USB adapter http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ for cheap if you want wireless and/or this BT adapter http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OBCAW2/ if you want BT.

u/Bastinenz · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Honestly couldn't tell you, but I'm also an advocate of USB wifi dongles, because you get to choose which wifi chipset you use, you get to take the dongle with you when you change your hardware and if reception is kinda shoddy you can use an USB extension cable to try and place it somewhere where reception is better. YMMV of course, but I'd take the USB dongle over the integrated card any day.

P.S. Had a little look around, the cheapest option I found was this:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157746&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566

Which is 60 dollars more than your board. It's got a much better chipset of course, which would allow overclocking if you were to upgrade your CPU, but it's definitely not ideal for your specific build.

If you want to go with a USB dongle instead, I can recommend the TP-Link TL-WN722N N150:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494790790&sr=8-1&keywords=TP-Link+TL-WN722N

It's about 13 USD and it works like a charm, I use it myself to provide a wireless access point for my mobile devices from my desktop.

u/McDonaldsQA · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

you going after this? I just picked up one of these and it worked right off the bat on Jessie. Do you have another sd card you can use to try another OS?

and just to verify, did you use something like:

sudo ifconfig wlan1 down

sudo iwconfig wlan1 mode monitor

u/dearagon · 1 pointr/buildapc

or do you have this one? TL-WN722N

u/Noctyrnus · 1 pointr/linuxhardware

I feel your pain. It's almost impossible to find a wifi adapter for 5GHz that works, and you only get the same generic answers from pretty much everyone. All of the ones suggested that work are 2.4 GHz. Unfortunately, that frequency is so cluttered now it hurts your speeds, especially if you're in a condo or townhouse. I can pick up 16 different networks from my living room. I keep hoping someone will provide a 5GHz compatible model.
This is the 2.4GHz model I use: TP-Link N150 Wireless High Gain USB Adapter (TL-WN722N), Version 2.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D7oWAbDH7SG14

u/Gazorpozorpfield · 1 pointr/buildapc

Just get a USB wireless adapter like this one. Unless you have extremely powerful internet, that will do you well. I have a slightly worse one and it goes through 2 walls and a ceiling to get to me. PCI-E adapters are only good for very high speed internet but they take up a lane with far more uses.

u/snailrub · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have the TP-Link WN722N USB WiFi adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_rdp_product

Here are my speedtest.net results since installing the adapter on 8/12:

http://www.speedtest.net/results.php?sh=ff15081ddd68d9a0873b589c549af904&ria=0

$13.35 to be able to completely max out the bandwidth I get in my house? Yessir, that was an easy purchase.

u/foxalive_ · 1 pointr/AskNetsec

I hear many pentesters talk about Pentoo as the better wireless platform and they recommend the :

tplink TL-WN722N- http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG

and the alfa awus036h- http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Network-Wireless-802-11g-AWUS036H/dp/B000WXSO76

Also if you are into wireless pentesting heres the playlist for the 2014 DefCon Wireless Village Talks: http://www.irongeek.com/i.php?page=videos/defcon-wireless-village-2014/mainlist

u/Ilovepropanebuffers · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

More than likely just better connectivity and it would have 5ghz which cheaper adapters may not offer, though it's becoming more common. You probably won't see any actual speed increase unless your old adapter was completely saturated, which again is unlikely as most peoples internet isn't nearly good enough to do it. Take this one for example. For $20 you get 150Mbps which most providers like comcast don't even offer options above that.

u/Pr0udN00b · 1 pointr/buildapc

PCIe or USB for wireless internet? I've been looking everywhere and I'm getting mixed results. I have one PCIe slot left on my mobo and I know the router is going to be central in a small off-campus college house, so distance doesn't matter. Right now I'm tempted on getting a USB dongle with antennas because I'm cheap and I get it with Prime same day delivery. Thoughts?

u/Metastasis007 · 1 pointr/chromeos

What about if im at work and the wifi signal is weak, i dont have access to the router only my samsung chromebook?
I was looking for something like this
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=twister_B00HY63DNE
Would it work?
or this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MX57AO4?psc=1

u/nubsrevenge · 1 pointr/buildapc

that's definitely the best choice, unless you would be using the USB adapter on more than one computer and it's convenient move it around. best PCIe wifi card and a good alternative usb one all because of the external antennas. if you really aren't going to be far you can look at cheaper ones with smaller plastic antennas if you don't like the external antennas, but these are literally the only ones I could find that would connect to my wifi across the house. I even got a 1 foot long plastic antenna but that didn't work...

u/mcbergstedt · 1 pointr/diyelectronics

If you want a Wi-Fi jammer, this video shows a simple way to make one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WevSbnFSvik
(Just know that they're illegal to use in public)

If you want to deauth people, you could just use a laptop running Kali and this wifi dongle:https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484325019&sr=8-1&keywords=tplink+tl-wn722n
You just need to write a script that can search for users connected to the wifi and sends deauth requests to users

u/CptTinko · 0 pointsr/buildapc

I bought this and I'm loving it.