Reddit mentions of Transfer of Training in Sports

Man ya should have tagged me! Just now getting out of the thick of J&T2 avalanche!!!

I'd say read anything from Dan John about athleticism and training. He's super, duper good. With shoulder specific stuff I've always been a fan of Eric Cressy and regarding hips/squat-typey stuff /u/gnuckols is quickly becoming a top source of info. About programming and S&C principles I'm a huge fan of what Juggernaut Training Systems is doing right now but from the past a quick, enjoyable, and practical book to read is Power by Dr. Fred "Squat" Hatfield. (If I had to choose one for people to read and get a good idea of complex principles that'd be it.)

Anyways, here's a good list. While I haven't read through all of these I have a few and on many occasions read a few chapters a number of times... Thanks Bondarchuk.

This book put a lot of things I considered hard or difficult in perspective. (Also gave me reason to continue going PT God-mode in the Marines.)

The One That Got Away

Really helped develop a broader perspective of whats capable. In the perspective of powerlifiting consider that a decade ago a 1,000 lb. deadlift was a thing. Now it's 100 lb. more. Where's the limit? In your mind.

For actual training information, this stuff was my go to for the in depth and dry kind of stuff. But really helpful for developing a deep and broad understanding of training.

Dinosaur Training

Power by Dr Squat

Powerlifting a Scientific Approach

Bodybuilding a Scientific Approach

Science and Practice, (basically the bible)

Special Strength Training Manual for Coaches

Block Periodization

Block Periodization #2

Transfer of Training in Sports

Transfer of Training #2

Explosive Plyometrics

I don't read much blogs and stuff like that being honest with you.

EDIT: Ok, forget what I said because it's kind of dumb.

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The Principle of Overload video linked a little while ago goes into more detail about MRV. MRV is indeed more closely related to workload, i.e. sets, reps, and load/intensity. The thing I was hung up on is that, within a given phase, only one primary variable is manipulated to increase the workload: for hypertrophy, it's volume (adding sets); for strength, it's intensity (load as a %age of maximum); and for peaking (and here's where my understanding is a bit murky), it's going to be a combination of specificity and intensity.

The following chart summarizes the data presented in the above video:

| Phase | Overload | Intensity | Reps/Set | Sets/Wk |
|------------- |------------------ |----------- |---------- |--------- |
| Hypertrophy | # Sets | 60-75% | 6-12 | 15-30 |
| Strength | Intensity | 75-85% | 3-6 | 10-20 |
| Peaking | Intensity | >85% | 1-3 | 5-10 |

One important thing to callout is that the above refers to the periodization of strength, only. I'm not sure that we can directly convert this into a training program to optimize performance in a complex sport like climbing. But what it can tell you is how to design your supplemental training (including the hangboard) to allow for long-term progress, which will ultimately improve your climbing.

References:

• Scientific Principles of Strength Training (YouTube)
  
• Transfer of Training in Sports (Amazon)