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Reddit mentions of Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAPACLITEUS), White

Sentiment score: 102
Reddit mentions: 183

We found 183 Reddit mentions of Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAPACLITEUS), White. Here are the top ones.

Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAPACLITEUS), White
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    Features:
  • Ubiquiti Networks networks Unifi AC Lite AP Wi-Fi 802.22
  • 2.4 GHz Speed : 300 Mbps, 5 GHz Speed : 867 Mbps
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height1.2381865 Inches
Length6.2992 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateJanuary 2017
Weight0.375 Pounds
Width6.2992 Inches

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Found 183 comments on Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAPACLITEUS), White:

u/KingdaToro · 65 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you want your stuff to last a long time and be more reliable, get dedicated devices rather than combined ones. A "wireless router" is actually three devices combined into one: router, switch, and access point. The router separates your network from the internet, moves data between them, allows multiple devices to share your single public IP address, blocks unwanted internet traffic from reaching your network, and assigns local IP addresses to devices on your network. The access point does Wi-Fi. The switch connects these together and gives you the multiple LAN Ethernet ports on the back.

These three devices are also available separately. For example, this is a router, this is a switch, and this is an access point. You'd connect the router's WAN port to the modem and the LAN port to the switch, then connect access points and other wired devices to the switch. This has several advantages:

  • The devices are much more reliable as each only does one job, rather than having to juggle three different ones.
  • It's easily expandable. If you need more Ethernet ports somewhere, just add another switch there and connect it to an existing switch. If you need more Wi-Fi coverage somewhere, add another access point there and connect it to an existing switch.
  • Upgrading is less wasteful. If, for example, a new Wi-Fi standard comes out, just get new access points that support it. You can keep your existing router and switch(es). Likewise, if you upgrade your connection speed to something your router can't handle, just upgrade it and keep your switch(es) and access point(s). And if something breaks, you can just replace it and keep everything else.
  • You can optimize the locations of devices. Your router and switch(es) can be put well out of the way, behind other stuff, where their cables will be out of sight. Your access point(s) can be ceiling mounted to provide the best Wi-Fi coverage, with only one Ethernet cable running to them. This cable also powers the AP using Power over Ethernet.
u/warheat1990 · 19 pointsr/homelab

List:

  • ZTE F609 - GPON ONT from ISP, bridge mode and connected to pfsense.

  • Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM - Super budget 24 ports switch with basic features and 2 SFP+ ports for only $139 brand new, you just can't beat that price.

  • Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite - To handle wireless devices in my house, to be honest I was very disappointed with the temp, it runs very hot and it's the reason why I didn't mount it on the ceiling. If I knew all Unifi AP runs this hot, I would've go with other brand. Many people have told me that it's fine, but mine reaches 70 degrees on idle (I live in place where it can reach almost 40 degrees) and if I mount it on the ceiling without proper ventilation, it probably can go up to 80-85 degrees and I've seen couple post on Ubqt forum that their AP melted due to the temperature.

  • Plugable 7 port USB hub - I have an unused spare. It's kinda expensive if you compare it to other cheap chinese crap but it doesn't backfeed power and super reliable, the other one is currently used to power my Pi2 24/7 for almost 2 years without single issue.

  • Deepcool cooler - Super old notebook cooler I found on my garage, currently use this to blow the hot air from Unifi AP until I finish my mod to mount 120mm fan on the ceiling so I can put my AP.

  • PC - Spec is G4400, Asrock H110M-HDV, PNY SSD CS1311 80GB, 2 WD hard drive 2TB, 8GB RAM, and 2x single NIC Intel PT Pro. This thing run Windows 10 and pfsense under Hyper-V (not a good idea I know). Also act as my media and storage server. I'm very surprised that this thing pulls less than 20w on idle!

  • Others - Old monitor I found in my garage, probably from Intel dual core era, some cheap landline phone, a bluetooth keyboard, and bluetooth mouse.

    All these only pull about 40w, my next upgrade is probably to invest in a decent rack so I can have a better cable management.
u/0110010001100010 · 18 pointsr/homeautomation

Evening Tim,

My default suggestion is Ubiquiti gear. However something seems, very, very wrong with your network. You shouldn't have a device limit and I would pressure Asus for a fix. RMA it again and make them resolve the problem.

That being said, you said less than $200 so I will offer this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C

https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/

Little bit more upfront config. However you will be far happier with the results.

u/rmg22893 · 18 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you get all those devices in one box, they're going to all be inferior to discrete solutions. And if one breaks, you're throwing away several perfectly functioning devices.

Edgerouter Lite 3-port: $95

Unifi AC-Lite: $86

TP-Link Gigabit Switch: $25

If you want to do cheap NAS, you might as well just share a drive on a desktop over the network.

u/MoistSquid · 15 pointsr/softwaregore

Not OP, but we've deployed Ubiquiti products in a few of our enterprise customers and it is running great. I am not sure how much you already know about networking, but I'll explain for anyone else reading.

First, some background to fully understand what it is you are trying to do. The thing that most consumers call "routers" are really three things: a router, a switch, and an access point. TLDR the router portion is the thing that actually moves traffic between machines, the switch extends how many physical ethernet ports you have, and the access point gives you wifi.

The Ubiquiti Access Points (UAP) are just access points. You will still need a router to route traffic, and your consumer one will work just fine for most people. If you are looking to get something more SOHO, Ubiquiti also makes their own router/firewall (check out USG, or ideally EdgeRouter). For all intents and purposes, it is a pretty good idea to separate the roles of your network (physical appliances for the router, firewall, wireless, etc...), and you can have as many UAP's as you'd like for wireless. The UAP's run off of Ubiquiti's 24V Power-over-Ethernet (POE), which can be provided via a POE injector or with a Ubiquiti Switch (either Unifi or EdgeMax). So for a basic network, you'll disable the wireless functionality on your consumer router, and plug a UAP into a port (obviously you'll need to pass it through the POE injector first). Rinse and repeat for however many UAP's you want, maybe another one on the other side of the house for example.

The UAP is pretty useless on its own, though. It needs a piece of software called the Unifi Controller. The software is free, and you can run it on Windows, Linux, or with Ubiquiti's appliance called the Cloud Key. Within Unifi Controller, you'll setup the UAP's; e.g. setting the visible wifi name (SSID), security, channels, etc... It isn't too complicated, the interface is really intutive and anyone who is even slightly technical could figure it out. The controller also serves another really important feature, which is zero-handoff. As long as the controller is running, your device will connect to the access point with the best signal. This is the seamless switching you asked about.

Ubiquiti also is focused on mesh networking, although we are generally pretty against that for businesses for reliability reasons. Of course, the exception to that is Cisco Meraki, which is a hybrid that will self-heal. If you lie and say you are an IT professional, you can get a free Meraki with a 3 year license. Just make sure that you follow the rules.

As a note, I would stick to the UAP AC's. They are the newer version and run great. For consumers, the UAP-AC-LITE is going to work fine. Obviously there is more to networking and wireless solutions than what I went over here, but this is the general gist of it.

u/Weebber · 15 pointsr/gadgets

The AP you have specified is 802.11bgn only so its not a fair comparison. To be more equitable you should specify this AP which is 802.11a/b/g/n/ac. ($82.35 each)

Plus no one should be buying an AP in today's wireless world that doesn't have a 5GHz radio. 2.4GHz is overcrowded, interference laden shit and should be steered away from wherever possible.

u/poppopretn · 14 pointsr/homelab

Inventory:

pfSense:
Snort, pfBlockerNG, OpenVPN, Squid, ClamAV, Default deny ingress/egress FW, etc.

ZOTAC ZBOX NUC

Kingston 120GB SSD

Crucial 8GB DDR3L RAM

ESXi Hypervisor:

Skull Canyon NUC

32GB DDR4 RAM

Samsung 950 Pro 512GB M.2 SSD

Virtual Machines I'm currently running.

Splunk - Receives my FW, DNS, Snort, and OSSEC logs. I have dashboards to filter this data.

Snorby - Also receives my Snort logs. I like this a little better than Splunk as I can view packet contents.

OSSEC - I used this for file integrity and endpoint monitoring on my servers and desktop. Functions as a host based IDS.

Nessus - I use this every once in a while to see if there are any open holes. Otherwise, I just use nmap and iptables to close everything off.

Unifi Controller - for managing my AP.


Wireless:

Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC Lite


Switch:

TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit L2 Switch

RetroPi + Monitor:

RPi3

10.1 Inch IPS HDMI Monitor


My VMs, configs, and files are backed up to a HDD I keep offline. I'm thinking about adding a NAS into the mix for somewhere around 200-400 dollars. Low energy consumption preferably if anyone had any recommendations. :)

u/ppeatrick · 13 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You will NOT be disappointed with a UAP-AC-Lite. Just mount it on the ceiling, in a centrally located space in your home, preferably on the top level and enjoy the best WiFi you never thought was possible. I used to insist on wiring up everything with Gbps Ethernet, simply for the improved latency, but this access point has caused me to be lazy these days. We've had zero issues streaming 4K content out to the very edges of 2.4GHz band in an environment with moderate interference and there's regularly ~30 devices connected at all times across a couple SSIDs each on its own VLAN.

It's hard to describe how much better the experience is coming from the usual consumer grade stuff. $80 and can be powered (via PoE injector) from a single cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015PR20GY/

u/deathbyearthworm · 12 pointsr/PFSENSE

You really don't want your router doing wireless, it is preferable to have a dedicated Access Point (AP) doing wireless. Unfortunately what people think of "routers" now are actually three devices in one, they are a router, switch (multiple lan ethernet ports), and access point (wireless). Personally I feel the combo devices do a bad job at all three of those which is why I prefer to have dedicated devices for each piece. If you plan on using an existing router and just want wireless I would suggest the unifi ac lite access point.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

If you need a router as well then I would use the access point and pfsense for your router. You could use a wired nic like this in an existing computer.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-1000-Dual-Server-Adapter/dp/B000BMZHX2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527380550&sr=1-3&keywords=intel+dual+gigabit

Pfsense does support wireless cards but trust me you don't want to go down that road for many reasons. Any time that topic comes up most users on this subreddit suggest against it myself included. I have tried building wireless into my pfsense build before and quickly abandoned it.

u/CBRjack · 11 pointsr/wireless

Don't go with repeaters. What you should get is a wireless bridge. This will act just like a wire, allowing you to install an access point in the Hall with the same SSID and password (for roaming).

Repeaters cut the speed in half. Having several in succession means there will be nothing left at the other end.

Have a look at Ubiquiti Nanobeam AC. These will act just like if it was a long wire. You will be able to get a very good connection and the speed won't suffer. They are rated up to 15km, so 450 ft is nothing for them.

Install one on the church, one on the hall, and then get a nice access point for the hall, like the Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite.

They aren't too expensive and should fit well in your budget. Amazon.com has them for $90 each. For the AP, Amazon.com has them for $82. If the hall is large, you could get a switch and 2-3 APs to get a good coverage.

Total cost for 2 nanobeam and an AP : $262
Total cost for 2 nanobeam, a switch and 3 APs : $454

u/wanderingbilby · 10 pointsr/HomeNetworking

There are APs that have some switch capability, but most of them are enterprise level. You can put a router into AP mode and it may also switch locally, or you can install an open source OS on a router and set it up that way - but it's going to have more poor performance than a stand-alone switch or AP.

u/lmm7425 · 10 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I think it's only a difference of $50, not $120. But personally, the standard POE on the PRO is worth it.
Lite
Pro

u/aakksshhaayy · 10 pointsr/PFSENSE

The unifi ac-lite is $81 on amazon so out of your budget but it's just barely enough to cover my small ass apt.. your house is smaller than this?

u/SirEDCaLot · 8 pointsr/networking

Ubiquiti is your friend. Assuming you have line of sight, a pair of Nanobeam AC units are exactly what you need.

You need a site to site link like that because if you just 'boost the signal', even with a very powerful base station, their mobile devices won't be able to reach back to your very powerful base station. So you put a Nanobeam on your house, another Nanobeam on theirs, and plug their Nanobeam into an access point like the UAP-AC-Lite.

u/mutatedferret · 7 pointsr/beermoney

no he doesnt. its all about how you set up your network. i have a linksys EA3500 handling 10 devices. i have a crap router behind it handling my checkpoints farm for that IP(10 devices). i have a netgear something handling 15 devices on a different IP. the key is to separate the channels. i run mine on 1, 6 and 11. no overlap for the 3 programs i run (sb, perk and checkpoints).

however, if you are going to upgrade, may as well as upgrade to something commercial that will handle the traffic you're throwing at it:

use this as your router (this is what im about to upgrade too)

use this as your access point for your wifi devices. add more as needed

$300 routers are trash compared to something under 150 thats commercial-grade.

u/ldjarmin · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you really want to have a high quality, robust solution then ditch the consumer grade stuff entirely. What I (and many others) would suggest is something like using the Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite as your router. Then you run Ethernet to one (or more, if your house is big enough) Ubiquiti Unifi Access Point to provide wifi. These are rock solid, business class products for a great price. And the best part is if you need more coverage, you just plug in another Unifi access point and put it where you want.

As for a modem, most people on here would recommend the Motorola line, like the SB6141 or the SB6183, but those are dependent on being on your ISP's approved modem list (though most major American ISPs approve of these particular modems).

u/_neutrino_ · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'd go with Ubiquiti products. Something like a Edgeroute X SFP and a Unifi AC lite.

I've got the slightly older Unifi AP and it's bulletproof. And with the X SFP you won't need the power injector for the AC lite. I setup the AC lite for a friend and it's also very solid, easy to use product.

Check out /r/Ubiquiti

u/Robots_Never_Die · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you want a affordable gigabit setup with Ubiquiti just run this setup.

  • USG $110
  • Unifi AP AC Lite $80
  • TP-Link 8 Port Unmanaged Switch $25
  • 1000' cat 5e $85
  • 24 port patch panel $19

    If you don't have a gigabit connection you can swap out the USG for an ER-X which will knock off $50 but if you have the $50 to spend I would suggest staying with the USG so all your managed products are on the Unifi admin interface. You can also save some money by going with 500' of cat 5e if you don't need the full 1k foot spool.
u/[deleted] · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Yes, the range extenders are most likely the issue. If it's one story and not a huge house the nighthawk would be much better than range extenders. Alternatively, you could keep the zyxel, disable the wireless on it, and get one of these. It'll likely cover the entire house assuming there's not a bunch of block walls and it's not a mansion.

u/mcribgaming · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

>Plus it all seems inefficient since I already have the LAN throughout the house.

If you already have Ethernet pulled to places all over the house, then wired Access Points is the obvious and correct answer.

Ubiquiti is the king of reliable Access Points. But switching to Ubiquiti requires a bit more knowledge than your typical wireless router / repeater system, so if you choose this, you'll have to do a bit of learning too.

For 900 sqft on two floors, you can likely get away with just one Access Point mounted on the First Floor in the Center. That would easily cover the floor, plus very likely cover the floors above and below it too. A Ubiquiti nanoHD is my go-to recommendation lately, but if you are trying to save some money, an AC-LITE is fine.

nanoHD:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Internal-1733Mbit-Ethernet/dp/B07FFNTLJD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=nanohd&qid=1574904222&s=electronics&sr=1-4

AC-PRO:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=nanohd&qid=1574903775&s=electronics&sr=1-5

AC Lite:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-YWMgbGl0ZQ%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=ac+lite&pd_rd_i=B015PR20GY&pd_rd_r=382f4fce-b8fd-41f5-9d83-2ce30c7d4867&pd_rd_w=2JjVi&pd_rd_wg=IV1TH&pf_rd_p=e2f20af2-9651-42af-9a45-89425d5bae34&pf_rd_r=BRFTH2F9ZHRVN6T7YH6B&psc=1&qid=1574903705

Since you already have Ethernet presumably at ground level, you can also consider the Ubiquiti In-Wall units as well. These units provide you Wireless Access Points PLUS they give you two Ethernet ports at ground level. If you can get your gamer and game machines plugged into Ethernet instead of wireless, you'll have the ideal setup (streaming and other things are fine on wireless).

So maybe 1 ceiling mounted AP in the middle of the first floor, one in wall where the gamer is (for Ethernet ports as well as supplemental WiFi on the second floor), and maybe one In-Wall in the basement if needed (good chance it won't be).

AC-In-Wall:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-UAP-AC-Iw-Wireless-Access/dp/B06XZLP8Q6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1YA0NR13TWSGZ&keywords=ubiquiti+in+wall&qid=1574903832&s=electronics&sprefix=ubiquiti+in+w%2Celectronics%2C199&sr=1-2

If you do get 2-3 Ubiquiti APs, you'll probably want a PoE switch to power them all. This is another expense, unfortunately, but makes installation much cleaner.

>Based on what I've read (and experienced before) one kungfu wireless router isn't likely to provide adequate coverage throughout the house.

If you didn't want to go the Ubiquiti route, your house is actually a pretty good candidate for an Asus or Netgear, since it's 900sf stacked on top of each other. These consumer routers are pretty good these days. Unless your house is all brick and metal, I don't see why it wouldn't cover it.

u/t3dward · 6 pointsr/LifeProTips

This thing is pretty good, and if you already have a router it's not a very expensive addon. The caveat, it needs a cat5 connection from your router handing out DHCP addresses to work, it won't do routing on its own.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

u/dakoellis · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

So instead of using a mesh system, you will get much better performance using WAPs instead. The most popular one here is the UAP-AC-lite. You will still need a router, so you could buy a new one, like the Edgerouter X, or if you're happy with the netgear (except for the wireless performance of course) You can keep that and just run the WAPs off of that.

u/xplusyequalsz · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

These are great access points for the money.

u/harrynyce · 6 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Boy, Ubiquiti sure doesn't make it easy for the average home user/consumer to get a grasp on their products and offerings. I fumbled my way into a similar situation as yourself, perhaps bits of my ramblings will be helpful for you. I started off with a trusty little ER-X, fully planning to outgrow that little device within a matter of months. That did NOT happen, as it's quite a capable router for the $49 I invested in it. It even handled load-balancing dual WAN connections without breaking a sweat. And there's a PoE passthrough for pairing the router with a wireless access point. After being so thrilled with the ER-X, I decided it was time to bring our wireless capabilities into the 21st century and ended up going with a UAP-AC-LR, which has continued to serve us well over the past ~18+ months, or so. I was getting consistent remarks on just how great the WiFi was all of a sudden after deploying that lovely little UFO shaped device. Do yourself a favor and avoid the CloudKey, unless you have a very specific use-case / need for it. There's dozens of ways to run a UniFi Controller that are both cheaper (free?) and better, IMO. If you just have the single access point (I only have the one) you could potentially even stand it up simply by using the UniFi mobile app to set it and forget it. It only needs to run when you want to make modifications, or changes to your setup, but the options are immense. You can even run the software on your desktop PC, pretty much whatever you have on hand will suffice.

In an effort to give a somewhat complete run-down of your options, there's another line of products, where many folks prefer to go with a pure UniFi setup. The USG is on par with the ER-X, but it's twice the cost with less power and less features. The only added bonus is that you get to manage it from the same menu/interface as your access point(s), so your metrics and charts will fill out more and look a bit prettier, but how often do you really sit around and look at how much data your network devices are pulling? I still prefer the EdgeMAX dashboard over the UniFi Controller interface, especially considering the fact that I'm not wholly convinced the values are particularly accurate, so it may be of little value if that's something you actually need for your use-case, rather than just a pretty toy to view. Hope some of this helps, if you have further questions, please ask away! Below I'll list the absolute bare-bones, budget-conscious way to get into an incredibly stable home network setup, from my experiences. I only recently upgraded my Edgerouter-X with an Edgerouter 12 from the Early Release store, and today is the day my upgraded fiber package gets flipped on. Goodbye 100Mbps, hello Gbps! Sadly, not symmetrical... but that's for another time and place. Best of luck with your decision(s). I swear by my little "hybrid" network with the Edgerouter at the core and the UniFi access point (i've since added a mish-mash of switches, but unless you have a large need for ethernet connected devices, the ER-X should be plenty to get you going. This TP-Link was the absolute cheapest "managed" (smart) switch I could find in my research. I'm not quite sold on the UniFi switches, but I often wish I owned an Edgeswitch Lite, but someday I'll learn more than just the basics of the used Cisco SG300-20 i picked up to be the "core" switch of my network. Both the ER-X and ER12 have the added bonus of built in switching chips, so you get the best of both worlds which gives you quite a bit of flexibility in a home/lab environment.

TL;DR -- Edgerouter-X paired with UAP-AC-Lite with the UniFi Controller software running on pretty much whatever you have on hand (RPi, Google Cloud Compute, AWS, any old PC, etc.) and you will have a rock-solid network core with dreamy WiFi that'll get you compliments for weeks, if not months from your significant other and/or housemate(s).

u/PoorlyShavedApe · 6 pointsr/NewOrleans

>I've considered trying to run an Ethernet cable to their side and then adding a repeater (is that the right name?)

Repeaters are trash. Don't bother.

>Also, was thinking it might work to put the router in the center of the attic?

Location of the router doesn't matter, just the access point.

How to get decent wireless coverage on both sides of a double? Stop using consumer grade all=in-one garbage. Get a dedicated access point (AP) that you can mount on a wall or ceiling and your coverage will be much, much better. Personally I use the UniFi line of access points from Uniquiti. UniFi AC Pro for $150, UniFi AC Lite for $78. technically you need to install the controller software someplace to do initial configuration, but that software doesn't have to run 24x7 (unless you're a dick and want to do a captive portal to make your neighbors log in). The UniFi line is Power over Ethernet (PoE) as well (with an injector) so you only have to run one cable to the device. Additionally if you need you can add an additional access point and have handoff between the devices.

The AP doesn't have to be from UniFi. I just suggest them becasue the configuration is easy. The iPhone app makes pairing the AP to a controller stupid simple as well. I used an entry-level Cisco Meraki AP for three years before replacing it. You could get one for free by watching a webinar and got a three year license. UniFi doesn't have licensing.

You can use any COX approved cable modem and router with an external access point. If your router has an AP built in just turn that off.

Since you are looking to share with your neighbors you may want to look at the "unlimited" data package. that is an extra $50 USD month. If you have multiple TVs all streaming content it adds up fast. Between the neighbors and myself we average 3 TB a month. I can always tell when the COX CSR looks at data usage.

u/TenGigabit · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ap-ac-lite&qid=1569085300&s=electronics&sr=1-3

This is what 98% of us here would recommend. As noted below, you don't need the Pro version if you're just installing this in a moderately sized home with 10-15-20 devices connecting to it. The Unifi software is powerful, yet intuitive, and gives you plenty of control and features - And it will scale well if you decided to either add more Unifi AP's or a Unifi switch or firewall down the road. The great thing about these types of AP's is that they are PoE, meaning you can deploy them anywhere with just a single Ethernet cable providing both data and power.

u/TheKLB · 6 pointsr/msp

Sounds like you are looking for Ubiquiti and a UniFi cloud controller.

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY/

https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/209376117-UniFi-Install-a-UniFi-Cloud-Controller-on-Amazon-Web-Services

It does everything you're asking and can be fully managed through a web interface without connecting to the clients network

u/doomjuice · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'd say the TP-Link Archer C7 or the ASUS RT-N66U should do the trick. If you want to go nutty there's always the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite and UniFi AP AC Lite, but this setup isn't as plug-and-play as the first two.

u/cherwilco · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

wow 50 bucks huh? not sure if your going to get anything reliable at that price. if you need 5ghz only you could always get one of these and mount it to a rafter facing down. at 65 bucks its a little over your budget.

one of these though is a lot more suited to home wifi. you can turn the 2.4ghz channel off if you really dont want it too. yes its a hundred bucks but you would be hard pressed to find another solution that would work as well in this price range.

u/DZCreeper · 5 pointsr/networking

This is closer to a home networking topic because of the low complexity but I don't mind helping.

  1. Don't get EdgeRouter X. The EdgeRouter Lite is quite a bit better and only costs a bit more.

  2. Your bottleneck is most likely the wireless routers you have currently. Neither is suitable for running 40 devices and even 20 can be pushing their limits once you have just a few clients streaming video.

    Put your modem into bridge mode and have the N66-U running as the router. Turn off the wireless. Get a UniFi AC Lite AP, place it up high and wire it into the router.

    If you have extra money get another access point and then an EdgeRouter Lite 3.

    http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY

    http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgerouter-Router-ERLITE-3/dp/B00HXT8EKE

u/m0ei · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

I use these https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY/

Just spread them around your house. I used 3 for my house, not even a single spot has no/weak signal.

u/michrech · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I would not suggest using a bunch of consumer routers for such a situation. Instead, use some dedicated hardware. Depending on how technical you are, you might be better off hiring this work out, but if I were in your shoes, I'd be looking at either a gaggle of Ubiquiti's UAP-AC-Lite WAPs, their UAP-AC-IW, or a combination, depending on where they'd need to be installed.

They are controlled via Ubiquiti's free UniFi Controller software, which can be run via their Cloud Key, on a RasPi 2 or 3, or a Windows / Linux / OSX system. You can also configure basic settings through the iOS or Android apps if you don't wish to use their Controller software. With the UniFi Controller software, all settings for all access points are in one UI. You can easily add / remove WAPs as needed.

They are PoE powered, so you don't have to have power run to whichever locations you decide to install them (a limitation you will have with a bunch of consumer routers), and they come with the PoE injector needed. You can also power them from a PoE switch, but be aware that the UAP-AC-Lite doesn't use 802.1at/af PoE specs -- it uses a 24v passive PoE, and there aren't many switches (that I'm aware of) that support it. If you go this route, you might look at the UAP-AC-Pro, which won't have this issue, but is a bit more expensive. :)

You're building a new house, with a brand new network -- don't cheap out on this part, as it'll only bring you misery in the end (especially if you have a WAF to deal with). :D

u/zer0fks · 4 pointsr/sysadmin

As /u/nonades mentioned, /r/homelab is a good place to ask as well.

My setup:

u/FunctionalBlackbird · 4 pointsr/CanadianBroadband

You're better off buying your own router and access point (preferably two discrete devices). The combo devices (modem/router/AP) provided by ISPs are typically disposable low-quality junk that they can afford to buy by the hundreds of thousands, and toss in the trash when they break.

From a security standpoint, it is "best practice" to have your own router and relegate the ISP modem/router to "bridge mode" (where it is acting as only a modem, with the firewall functions disabled). The HH3000 is Bell's device, managed by Bell. By plugging things into it, Bell gets to see what your home LAN consists of. With everything connected to your own router/firewall device, Bell doesn't get to see all of the other devices that live in your home LAN.

Put your router somewhere where it's easily accessible (for inspection of lights, troubleshooting, resets, etc). Put the access point in a central location in the household, and run a cable to it. If coverage is inadequate, considering buying a second AP and placing it in the dead/weak signal zone.

Run cables to as many non-mobile devices as possible; TVs, streaming media boxes, game consoles, etc. Save your wifi bands for mobile devices that actually need wifi (ie. laptops, tablets, phones), and put them on the 5GHz (not 2.4GHz) band.

A pair of dedicated appliances like the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite and AP AC Lite will give you more flexibility and better coverage than any ISP combo device.

u/SometimesIDoThings · 4 pointsr/PleX

That would be better for sure, add one of these and you'll be good to go. Or save some money and get the lite version.

And then to really get a nice SOHO network going add an Edgerouter to replace that C7

u/lilotimz · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Use a WiFi Scanner app to find the best 2.4 / 5 ghz channels in your apartment. For 2.4 it's channels 1/6/11 @ 20 MHz. For 5 GHz basically just to find the least congested space.

If both 2.4 and 5 is heavily congested then maybe something like an Ubiquiti AC Lite running in DFS 5 GHz frequencies may help out a lot.

u/Exfiltrate · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The Edgerouter Lite is quite a popular choice capable of handling Gigabit speeds.

If you don't have wireless APs, also grab one or two of the AP-AC Lites.

u/Luxin · 4 pointsr/DIY

WiFi range extenders are not an optimal solution for high bandwidth uses like streaming, or for use in gaming since they can add some latency to the connection.

A floor plan of the house would help to see what you are dealing with here. And how many Square feet? Without this info, everything below is a guess.

I would do the following. You may not want to make such an investment.

  • Remove the range extenders
  • Shut down all WiFi from your cable modems
  • Don't install, but place a Ubiquity Access Point in a central part of the home as a test.

    Did the network performance improve everywhere and is working how you want it? Can you wire it in that location? Paying an electrician a $100 might be great if needed. The install will be for a single CAT5e or CAT6 cable. The power for the AP is sent from what is called a power injector that comes with the AP through the network cable. This is how I did it in my home.

    If it did not work well, and assuming you live in a 2 story ranch style/wide house, I would do the following:

  • Install the Ubiquity AP in one corner of the house on the first floor.
  • Run a cable for a second Ubiquity to the second floor, opposite side.
  • Run the Ubiquity controller on your PC. This will allow you to use the same SSID (WiFi network ID) for both APs. As you roam throughout the house your devices will seamlessly jump from one AP to the other without changing networks. This is what large offices that are well setup do. And Ubiquity allows a homeowner to do the same for a lot less $$$.

    Good luck!
u/ctrocks · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

It goes a little above budget, but, they are both very solid devices, and recommended like crazy here.

Go with a separate router and AP. You get better placement for the access point and a router that can handle a lot more than 150MBps.

Ubiquiti AP-AC-Lite

Edgerouter Lite

If you want a not as capable, but still fast and cheaper router, Edgerouter-X

u/back_like_woa · 3 pointsr/perktv

consumer grade routers are garbage for perk and beermoney stuff. look into something like this:

https://amzn.com/B00YFJT29C

and for an access point, something like this:

https://amzn.com/B015PR20GY

anything consumer grade is really garbage for perk and things that need a router with more processing power. many of the expensive routers barely have any memory (64mb) yet spout nonsense like 'dual core processor at 1ghz!!'.

means shit if you only have 64mb of ram to work with.

the router i listed has 256mb, and if you need something more, there is an upgraded version of it that has 512.

u/sp33d3r · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PR20GY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's still lots of old stock out there. Very possible you still got an older one with 24V passive. It's the same SKU which makes it more confusing. There should be a sticker on the outside of the box if it's an af/at compatible one.

u/okgeekhere · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Wifi boosters suck. They take an already weak signal and just repeat it. If you already have Cat5 this is what you need. It creates it's own wifi signal, a fresh strong on. I have one of these and can catch a usable signal from it literally a block from my home in the park.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015PR20GY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/l337hackzor · 3 pointsr/gadgets

Honestly repeaters are pretty hit and miss. The better solution is generally a better wireless access point with greater range. If possible wire in a second AP and create a seamless network.

Great value AP (can use more than 1 together if you have a line ran): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015PR20GY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524511125&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=unifi+apac+lite&dpPl=1&dpID=31-u-5bgo0L&ref=plSrch

If you have to use a repeater I've had good results with this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CGZPQVE/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1524511268&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tp+link+ac1200&dpPl=1&dpID=31QkJ757pTL&ref=plSrch

I've setup 10+ sites with the unifi AP's they work great and are very reliable. Better to make the jump to enterprise equipment then mess around with home grade junk.

u/Fallen0 · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

5ghz makes a huge difference! Take a look at the Ubiquity Unifi AP's they have a cheapish 5ghz model. I love them! There pretty simple to install and just work afterwards.

All they do is be an access point and your current router takes care of the rest.

u/MalfeasantMarmot · 3 pointsr/PFSENSE

It depends on your budget and technical abilities. For most people getting into this type of networking I usually recommend any of Ubiquiti's Unifi equipment. It all runs off a single web UI and is more user friendly than more serious equipment. You could get a basic 8 port switch and AP from them for less than $200.

Something like this switch and this AP

The AP is powered by the switch using POE (power over ethernet) so you don't need to connect any other cables to it. Unifi is prosumer, it's not quite enterprise level, but it runs on the same principles and can still do some relatively high-level stuff.

Some people in here don't like Ubiquiti products, as they're kind of like the Apple of networking gear, but they provide good products and a good UI imo. I think it's a good way to go for people getting into this side of things. You can get similar TPLink gear for cheaper, but its configuration is more difficult imo.

u/wolfcry0 · 3 pointsr/openwrt

>Any suggestions as to what I should buy?

UAP-AC-Lite: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

While your internet isn't very fast you still want to have decent LAN transfer speeds. I highly recommend the UniFi gear, it's solid hardware and the central management is great.

>Presumably I'll just need to give them all the same network name and password, and unique channels, and the devices should choose the best access point automatically? Is there anything else I'd need to do?

Nope, that covers it!

u/fyrilin · 3 pointsr/hackedgadgets

OP, this is the correct answer. Everyone else is saying a router but those do other things, not just sharing the wired connection over wifi. The most popular access point over in /r/homenetworking is the Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC Lite.

u/stevier · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Get two of these and one of these. Put one of the nanobeams on either side of the way you are trying to extend to. You will need a small switch inside the trailer to plug the other nanobeam and the UAP into. The nanobeams in this case replace a physical wire going between the buildings (use one as a sender and one as a receiver).

u/pogidaga · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You don't mention what your current router is, but there is probably nothing wrong with it except its placement. I think your best bet is to place a wireless access point on the first or second floor and connect it to the router with an ethernet cable, if possible. Something like one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Supports-Technology-EAP245/dp/B01N0XZ1TU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541101590&sr=8-1&keywords=tp-link+access+point

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541101627&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+uapaclite

u/Fuzzybunnyofdoom · 3 pointsr/fortinet

The AP's don't need the controller to function, just get provisioned. You can run the software on your PC to setup the AP then never run the software again once its setup.

I run one of the UAP-AC-Lite AP's behind my 60E.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

u/War_Dave · 3 pointsr/wifi

Hardware with Ethernet where you can and get a decent wifi ap for stuff you cant. I picked up one of these awhile back for my phone/tablet and stuff that has no ethernet cable and no issues from it. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549167421&sr=8-5&keywords=ubiquiti+wireless+access+point

But in a gaming machine ethernet no way around it, don't wifi on a device over ethernet because its "easy" it will only cost you a LOT more time in the long run vs running that cat5 cable or even MOCA adapters.

u/Duplo_Apocalypse · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Wire everything you can. Then look at getting the often recommended Ubiquiti AP AC Lite and either use R7000 or ISP provided modem to handle the routing (disabling the wifi in either case) or look at getting a matching Ubiquiti Security Gateway (USG). The bonus is the Ubiquiti gear supports Dynamic Frequency Selection which could help eliminate interference from your neighbours on the 5ghz spectrum.

u/CyberCam · 3 pointsr/homelab

Wow, you want to do all that with a Celeron Quad-core? If that's all I had I would throw CentOS 7 Minimal Server on it...
https://www.howtoforge.com/tutorial/centos-7-minimal-server/

For easy GUI administration use
Webmin: https://lintut.com/how-to-install-webmin-on-centos-7/

For TM Backups use NFS or SMB: https://www.unixmen.com/setting-nfs-server-client-centos-7/ https://lintut.com/easy-samba-installation-on-rhel-centos-7/

To enable NFS on Mac: http://www.serverlab.ca/tutorials/osx/administration-osx/how-to-connect-mac-os-x-to-nfs-shares/

For DLNA use Plex Media Server (enable DLNA in settings): http://brettspence.com/2014/11/17/installing-plex-media-server-on-centos-7/

For Web app hosting etc. use Apache or Nginx with MYSQL & PHP: https://www.howtoforge.com/tutorial/centos-lamp-server-apache-mysql-php/
https://www.digitalocean.com/community/tutorials/how-to-install-linux-nginx-mysql-php-lemp-stack-on-centos-7

Use Webmin to administer your virtualhosts using the Apache module or use this Nginx module: https://github.com/vixh/nginx-webmin

For NextCloud use this script https://github.com/PietsHost/Nextcloud-Installation-Script

For DIY IoT edge device/gateway, there's no better for the money than EdgeRouter X + UniFi AC AP (Lite/LR): https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-ER-X-Networks-Router/dp/B0144R449W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494305813&sr=8-2&keywords=edgerouter+x

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494305859&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+ap+ac+lite

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494305879&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+ap+ac+lr

For VPN use OpenVPN (use this script): https://github.com/Angristan/OpenVPN-install
NOTE: With this script it remove passwords by default, just open the script up in a text editor and remove the "nopass" text (4 times) and your good to go! It's very easy to install and add/remove users.

Again, this is a lot for a small little machine to do, but this is how I would do it with the limited hardware you have.

Cheers!

u/bbsittrr · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Uquiti lites: about $80

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

AC Pros: $95 each:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

Six dudes:

EAP 225 about $130, $22 bucks each

AC Lite: $160, $27 bucks each (and you guys get free amazon prime still I think?)

AC Pro: $190, $32 each. Get some cat6 patch cables from Monoprice (or via amazon, with free shipping). You're good to go.

$22 to $32 bucks each: I'd skip a beer day, and pony up for the full AC pros.

u/Judman13 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Getting this out of the way. USG and UAP-AC Lite. $190 from Amazon.

Or Edgerouter X and UAP-AC Lite. $130 from Amazon (rock solid reliability, but less user friendly)

You can upgrade to UAP-AC Pro is you have devices that can use its spec's. $169 for the AP from Amazon.

u/srdjanrosic · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Personally, I'd go with a simple dumb switch and a really nice access point

I think this fits your budget, just don't forget to get a couple of patch cables as well.

actually, the above is a lie, I'd personally go with a hAP ac .. and I have, it's just it's not for everyone as it can be a little complicated, .. but the other access point I mentioned above is good too.

u/PythonTech · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Kudos on thinking ahead on this kind of stuff.

It's a more "advanced" router / firewall but the Mikrotik equipment is very powerful, especially for how much it costs. It's not a router common in a home setting, but lots of ISP's use the higher end models for the backbone of their networks.

This will outperform any off the shelf router you can buy at the stores:
https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RB750Gr3-5-port-Ethernet-Gigabit/dp/B01MSUMVUB/

Since you have a month before the event this would give you time to get familiar with the router and make any changes you need.

The router doesn't have wireless, but my suggestion is to always use a separate AP for wireless anyways. Get a Unifi AP::

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/

Now your thinking "I said there's going to be 6-8 people, and that router only has 4 lan ports!" Correct, you should use a switch:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Replacement-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6

The main benefit of running all these things separate from each other is you don't have to have them central to your gaming. The router can stay with the modem and just 1 cable has to run out to the switch.

Now if you are going to do this more often or want higher end gear, let me know and i'll offer up a different set of suggestions.

u/PM-ME-D_CK-PICS · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You're right, that's the older model. I looked for the cheapest one. Anyway here's the newer model it's only $10 more. Outperforms anything you got. Whole write up shitting on you coming soon. Stay tuned.

u/Lord_Emperor · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

> unifi ap lite

$115 right now.

> edge router

I assume you mean the ER-X which is 82.66 and isn't in the Unifi product line.

So yes you're in for about $200 assuming you can get by with 3 Ethernet ports, or are you adding a switch to this setup as well? A full Unifi setup (Unifi router, switch and AP) starts at about $400 for the no PoE versions.

In any case unless the space you're servicing is absolutely huge and/or you have Gigabit upload (and need to use it) there's no practical benefit to it over a good consumer router.

u/soulinafishbowl · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Thanks for this question!

I will be fixing up the wifi at a 24-hour coffee and pastry shop in the next few weeks. They are currently using the UAP you linked first, and probably 30-40 concurrent users maximum at any given time.

It is very problematic as it is. Likely has more to do with improper configuration by the previous IT person, but I will be going with two UAP-AC-LITE antennae due to budget constraints.

Good luck! Hope it works out nicely.

u/sec_me_free · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

again. can't thank you enough.

for real last question though. any reason why the lite is 190 bucks vs the long range (should be better right?) for 150?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PR20GY vs http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01609AF22

u/stashtv · 2 pointsr/homelab

Ubiquiti's AC AP

For sub $200, I now have an SOHO grade router and an enterprise grade AP. When wifi gets faster, I'll swap one component in my network. When my cable modem gets faster than gigabit, I'll swap one component in my network.

u/OgdruJahad · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sorry I forgot to explain something, from what I know about using such devices. Even if you create a bridge between those 2 devices wirelessly, they may not be able to act as a Wi-Fi device as well, on cheaper routers they can act as a wireless bridge, but they cannot then be used to connect to Wi-Fi as well.

Also the reputation of Wi-Fi extenders is really bad. I would suggest getting something like a Ubiquiti AP AC lite, they have great range, plus you can have multiple Wi-Fi networks in one device! (Up to 4 separate networks AFAIK)

But make sure to shop around or talk to folks who have already have done what you need to get the most out.

u/hessmo · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Just do two more lite's. The amplifi line isn't as good, and wouldn't integrate into your existing system (and at a higher cost than two more lite's.

https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504709151&sr=8-2&keywords=uap-ac-lite

u/vegeto079 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Gotcha, so basically overhead might cut into my 300. As long as its like 250 I don't mind, what with reasonable expectations and all that.

For anyone else curious, I bought a Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC lite and Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X along with OP's modem. I've had good experiences with the AC-Pro in a professional environment, so hoping that the Lite works, and first time trying their router.

u/xelanil · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Instead of getting another consumer router you should go enterprise and get a Ubiquiti Edgerouter X and a Ubiquiti Unifi access point

u/TheRufmeisterGeneral · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

If by "nighthawk" you mean the obscenely expensive Netgear routers, then yeah, by all means, explore Unifi.

They recently (a few months back) introduced a new AC range, the most affordable of which is the UAP AC LITE which costs $90! For an enterprise AC access point!

The emphasis in the consumer market is on making the routers look really "bad-ass," and it having large "ACxxxx" numbers, but if the router is located in an unfortunate spot, then your wifi is still shit.

Here is where business APs shine. My parents' house has one of those AC LITE machines and it's rock solid. But, the best part is that they're meant to work together. Very few offices have just one AP, instead having several that work together for complete coverage. A $200 nighthawk isn't going to do that. Two Unifi APs, however, spread out to sensible spots, have a much better shot at that.

Speaking of location, consumer routers stand out like a sore thumb, even the more modestly stylized ones. However, these specific APs (business APs in general, but Unifi specifically) are built like smoke detectors, which nobody ever notices in a house. Which means you can put them anywhere it would be sensible to have them, like on a ceiling in the living room, without worrying that there's a giant blob of plastic in the shape of flimsy Star Wars merchandise hanging in plain sight.

And lastly, the PoE. Goddamn, I love PoE. If the AP will be sitting in a corner, next to the router/modem then it doesn't matter anywhere, but if the subtle style gives you the option of hanging it anywhere, the PoE makes that technically doable. Having just one cable go to the AP, with that cable being 100m (300ft) max is just so awesome. I still don't understand why consumer routers don't do this as well. Probably because those typically need lots of network cables alone to go to them. The cost shouldn't be the issue, since some of those routers are fucking expensive.

As an IT guy in general, and a sysadmin in particular, what Unifi is doing to both the enterprise as well as the prosumer markets, is making me happy.

u/duckduck_goose · 2 pointsr/Portland

Actually yeah. I suppose I could "wire" in the computers but they have run a set it n' forget it task when I'm not at home anyhow.

I guess a lot of the IT hobbiests have this and this as their network set up which means I get an end of year Net Admin crash course. My current network is a disorganized mess.

The only saving grace is a lot of places have cut off our phone supply and cheap ones go really fast in places where we can mass order them.

u/RussianBrooklyn · 2 pointsr/BeermoneyHomeNetwork

Rule of thumb with ALL consumer brand routers is that they are specifically designed for speed and not for handling large amounts of devices. even the biggest baddest most powerful router on the market that would cost you over $600 is designed to provide you with extremely fast download/upload speed but wont be able to stably handle more then a dozen devices.

The speed of the router has nothing to do with how many devices you can connect to it.

If you want to connect dozens upon dozens of devices. The only way to do that is with a non consumer brand router. like this one then a access point like this one

in total it cost me about $160 total and i have 40 devices connected and they are running none stop, they have not dropped the signal once in over a year since i bought them and the speed is very stable

u/mdamaged · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I myself use a Edgerouter X (good for about 250-300Mbs with QoS enabled, get one of their bigger models if you need gigabit internet speeds) then add a Unifi Ap-AC Lite (POE), it's commercial quality, will run circles around those home units, or if that AP is too much, if you have an old wifi router you can use it for just a WAP.

u/majesticjg · 2 pointsr/homeowners

Your mobile device (or TV or whatever) will communicate via wifi with the wireless access point and it will forward the data back to the network switch. How that happens depends on the type of access point. There are two major kinds of wireless access points: Mesh and Standard/Wired.

The wired ones communicate with wireless devices and use a cable to get that signal back to the switch. They're really reliable and have a ton of bandwidth. The PoE ones have one ethernet cable, which they also get their power from.

The mesh ones only need power. They can use wifi to relay the signal back to home base. These are primarily used in areas where you can't run ethernet very easily, like outdoors. Mesh is easier for amatuer installation, too, since you can just plug it into the wall.

How many WAPs you need depends on the layout of the house. How many square feet is the bottom floor of the house? If you have a ranch/rambler (like I do) it's all one floor and spread out, so one access point near each end of the house is helpful for 100% coverage. If you have the same number of square feet in a two-story, you can just put one access point at the very top, since no device will be more than xxx feet from the access point at any time. The commercial-grade access points are designed to handle a lot of client devices and hand them off smoothly from one access point to another.

I have these, because they were reasonably priced when I was installing. If I were installing today, I'd use these because the upcharge isn't that bad and they'd have even more bandwidth at a reasonable price. The pro one has two ethernet interfaces, so you'll be running more cable, but it would also be able to, in theory, support twice the bandwidth. There's also a long-range one. It has the bandwidth of the "lite" version, but covers a greater area. I'd use that if I were putting an access point on the back porch because I wanted reliable wifi all over the back yard.

Mine were installed in an existing home by a home technology company that specializes in hanging TVs on walls, running speaker wire and ethernet cable. They recommended we just hang the access points in the attic and they've been rock solid for just over two years, now.

u/DirtyWeab · 2 pointsr/Comcast_Xfinity

To better help you on this (and a lot of it will be opinion) please give us some more info.

>How many devices do you plan to use (if more than 5, stay away from the crap you can find at best buy and walmart)

>How big of a space do you need to cover

>What's your budget


Personally I went Ubiquiti and grabbed an edgerouter X and an AC-AP for $150 and have never looked back. Since the AC-AP came with a PoE brick I hid it in the ceiling and the whole house is covered.

Edit - formatting

u/hyperactivedog · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Routers are made to connect two different networks together (so your home network + the internet). As a rule of thumb do NOT get two routers for one network. It creates issues.


You'd want a second AP something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY
they go for as low as $70 (check slickdeals.net if you want crowdsourced deals). They pop up on newegg, amazon and/or bhphoto semiregularly at that price.

APs like that only need one cable (single ethernet) as they get power over ethernet (called PoE). The ideal is you plug in a short ethernet cord to your existing wired network (so your router) and then put a PoE injector in(included with the switch) and then you run a long ethernet cable to your AP which is further away. I am aware that dealing with ethernet runs can be a pain. One "good enough" solution I recomend is using thin ethernet cables. Thin cables aren't as good but for runs up to 100ft they're probably OK. $10-15 will get you a thin white cable and some wall tacks, they can be placed along edges tastefully.

-----

The above COULD be done over powerline, but as much as possible avoid powerline. Single band-repeaters and powerline battle it out for the worst way of connecting things to a network. The winner usually depends on your home's layout/configuration. I'd actually suggest a "mesh system" over a system which relied on powerline unless the home was VERY recently made and you know that there's a relatively straight run of electrical cord from outlet A to outlet B.


---------

One other trick is to try to better position your router. Buying some coaxial cable and an adapter is pretty straightforward - I ran coax when I was 11 without any instructions and it worked without a hitch (looking back I could've done a better job but that's another story).

u/meatwad75892 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You're on the right track; what you're wanting is an extra wirelesss access point. (not a router)


If you've already worked out how you can safely run CAT6 from the router in the home back to the apartment, then all you need is an access point to provide wireless connectivity on the other end. At ~225ft, you should be fine with a single cable run. I'd recommend looking at a Ubiquiti UniFi AP, you can pick any that meets your needs. (Wireless N/AC, long range or not, etc)


UniFi UAP (wireless N)


UniFi UAP-LR (wireless N, long range)


UniFi UAP-AC-LITE (wireless AC)


The AC versions are rather new and should be closer to $100-110 MSRP. If you wanted to go that route, wait until there's stock at B&H Photo.

u/washu_k · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

How big is your house that you need 5 APs of any type? Are your walls solid concrete? Are the Airports really old or possibly expresses instead of extremes? Is everything only using 2.4 GHz with the same channel?

I ask because 30 Mbps is quite low for Airport Extremes. They are a bit overpriced but are decent performers.

> cat6E

Are you sure you don't have Cat5E or Cat6A? Cat6E is not a recognized cable standard. If you really have Cat6E it could be crappy knockoff cable that will cause problems.

Unless you have high end laptops like Macbook Pros the AC-LITE will do for 90% of cases and is only around $80 each. They are two stream AC. The AC-PRO is 3 stream AC but that can't be used by most devices. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/

A Ubiquiti Unifi switch would be useful in both giving you a single interface and providing PoE for the APs. The APs will still work fine with other switches, but you would need to use the provided injectors to power them which makes more cable mess especialy if you need 5. The US-24-250W would do fine: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-Managed-US-24-250W/dp/B00OJZUQ24/

u/spychipper · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

As stated elsewhere you will need a managed switch.

If you are on a budget my go-to for over a decade has been various revisions of the Netgear GS-108t

If you want ease of use these days I would go with Ubiquiti. for home use. The linked switch is 2x the cost of the Netgear, but provides Power Over Ethernet (PoE) which allows you to use Ubiquiti's matching Access Points at some point in the future, both of which can be managed from the same interface. Note that the AP linked to is an example, they make different models for different use cases. The management interface shines if you are not a networking pro.

u/pLuhhmmbuhhmm · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Would you say this is a better option?

Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X + Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite + gigabit switch

Or

Just get a Mikrotik hAP AC?

u/generaltsopizza · 2 pointsr/homelabsales

If buying new, it's 77 on Amazon:

Ubiquiti Networks UniFi AC Lite AP Enterprise Wi-Fi System (UAP-AC-LITE-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_klzDCb64FE95F

Edit: potentially not an authorized seller as stated below

u/GoingOffRoading · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This! Sort of...

For one, you will need a cable modem:

  • $45 NETGEAR CM400-1AZNAS Cable Modem 8x4 Bonded Channels
  • $90 NETEAR CM600-100NAS Cable Model 24x8 Bonded Channels
  • $100 NETEAR CM700 Cable Modem 32x8 Bonded Channels

    Why multiple options and price-points?

    In a nutshell, download and upload bonded channels supports how much up and down bandwidth your cable modem would have. 8 (8 download) x4 (4 upload) theoretically supports 340 Mbps download and whatever upload speed. My current 2x2 supports 125+ Mbps download.

    Why get something beefier? You will get slightly better performance if each bonded channel isn't operating near it's ceiling. With Comcast, they have 16 and 24 download channels in most markets so that will help with your overall connection. Also having 24 or 32 download channels will help you break through speed barriers if Comcast offers faster connection speeds in the future.

    Personal Note: I pay for 100/10 from Comcast and bought the $90 NETEAR CM600-100NAS Cable Model 24x8 Bonded Channels for my new home. While the theoretical download speed from the modem far out paces what I will get from Comcast, the new modem will take full advantage of the 24 bonded download channels in my area.

    Then you will need a router. With Ubiquiti, you can really go with one of two router options:

  • ~$50 Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X
  • ~$100 Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway 9USG

    There's a lot of YouTube videos that will explain the differences between each router. The short version is that they use the same hardware and have all of the same features available if enabled over command line but:

  • The EdgeRouter X has more features available in it's existing UI, CAN be powered by POE and is less prone to crashing when making changes over CLI. The Edgerouter also has a built in switch (if you want) and POE passthrough so you can do: Cable Modem -> POE Power Injector -> EdgeRouter -> Ubiquiti Access Point (more on this shortly)
  • The USG has fewer features in the UI than the Edgerotuer, CAN NOT be powered by POE and is more prone to crashing when making changes over CLI. What the USG does have is full integration into the Unifi family of products which means you can manage the router over the cloud along with any other Unifi product like your access points (APs... We'll get to them in a minute).

    Personal Note: I bought the EdgeRouter X because the price point is so good. This thing EASILY out performs my Linksys WRT 1900 AC or any other Linksys, Asus, etc. routers that I have ever owned. With that said, I will never fully leverage all of the controls in the UI and I wish I had gone with the USG as it integrates with the Unifi cloud stuff. I will eventually switch to a Unifi router.

    Then you will need an Access Point (AP) to create an access point for your devices:

  • $75 Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-Lite Lite
  • $100 Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-LR Long Range
  • $130 Ubiquiti Unifi UPA-AC-Pro Pro

    If you get the EdgeRouter X, get a UAP-AC-Lite. They both operate off of 24v so you can do Cable Modem -> 24v POE power injector (comes with the UAP-AC-Lite) -> EdgeRouter X -> UAP-AC-Lite. This is what I have now.

    You can upgrade to the UAP-AC-LR which has the longest range of all of the Ubiquiti APs or the UAP-AC-LR because of it's 3x3 MIMO which gives it a higher input/output than the rest of the Ubiquiti 2x2 MIMO. The latter two devices use 48v POE injectors.

    Personal Note: I'm using two UAP-AC-Lites in my current two story home and will transition to four in my new three story home. Even at the cheapest price point, these far out perform the other routers and access points that I have ever owned.
u/MillipedeMemeMagic · 2 pointsr/PFSENSE

I see. Thanks for the explaination.


My questions then, is, what am I actually getting in the pfSense gear with the higher price. For example, if I got an SG-1000 and one of these Ubiquiti WAPs, what am I getting that I would in, say, a Linksys AC1900 at half the price. Hardware performance wise. (I realize it's also pfSense vs DDWRT)

u/not12listen · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

At this moment, WPA3 shouldn't be the primary concern. It was only certified back in June of this year.

In order for WPA3 to work in any environment, your broadcasting device (wireless router, wireless access point, etc) AND your client device (phone, tablet, laptop, etc) must both support it.

So, if you have current devices that only support WPA2, getting a WPA3 wireless router will have no benefit at current. If you do get a WPA3 wireless router, you'll be set for the time when you do replace your existing wireless devices with WPA3 compliant devices.

----

In regards to improving your wireless experience (leaving WPA3 out of the topic for the moment), it'd be better to focus on a few other details.

  1. How many people within what approximate square footage space?

  2. How many people per room?

  3. How many rooms require wireless coverage? (saying ALL is not helpful, detailing the total number of rooms is)

  4. Does every device support 5GHz?

    ----

    My basic recommendation is as such.

    Determine which devices DO and DO NOT support 5GHz. Determine how many rooms are critical for wireless coverage. Purchase a wireless access point (or multiple - depending on square footage coverage requirements) that are DFS compliant.

    If you cannot find specifics on your device, whether is supports 2.4GHz or 5GHz - you can adjust/alter your current wireless settings. Most wireless broadcasting devices should allow you to name your 2.4GHz and your 5GHz networks (SSID) separately. Do so. As example, name your 2.4GHz network something like 'Home - Legacy' and your 5GHz network 'Home'.

    Then have each device 'search/look' for the available wireless networks. If they can only see 'Home - Legacy' and NOT 'Home' - then you are holding a device that can only use 2.4GHz.

    Document what each device CAN and CANNOT see.

    If every device supports 5GHz, great! You can and should disable 2.4GHz - and never use it! In order to determine if & how many wireless access points you'll need, you will need to do some research and intelligent planning.

    Use the same device for this test.

    Go to the room where your wireless router is. Check how many bars of signal you have. Document it. Go to the next room and repeat this process for each room.

    Most devices will show 4 or 5 bars in regards to signal. If they do not, then it is likely a percentage. 2 of 4 bars is the minimum you want (50%), and 3 of 5 bars is the minimum you want (60%).

    That will give you your baseline per your current coverage area. Based upon that, you will begin to formulate a plan for how many additional wireless broadcasting devices you will need.

    I tend to go with Ubiquiti wireless access points. The AC Lite is a good entry level device. You'll want to leverage the DFS channels too, as it will help you get better wireless speed.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=psdc_1194486_t3_B015PRCBBI

    Give that a shot. If you have any questions, please ask.
u/schoolpaddled · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This TP Link model beats the Ubiquiti in testing:

>The first thing I noticed about the EAP-225 was how complete, functional, and usable its standalone web interface is. I'm most familiar with Ubiquiti's UAP line—and with those, you really need to set up their Unifi controller to access more than a tiny fraction of the functionality of the access points. Not so with the EAP-225. Logging into a single EAP's web UI presents you with everything from multiple SSIDs to VLANs (with rudimentary QoS!) to working captive portal—all with no controller required. All the functionality was well laid-out and easy to find, and the UI was quite responsive.

>The EAP-225 did a flawless job on 2.4 GHz. Spoiler alert, this is as good as it gets for this round-up; do not expect to find a better set of 2.4 GHz curves for any other kit.

> Its 5 GHz maximum throughput scores were middling, roughly on par with Ubiquiti's UAP-AC-Lite. Environments that expect to actively use the 2.4 GHz band as well as 5 GHz would have a tough time finding a better-suited AP.

https://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-reviews/33191-2x2-ac-access-point-roundup-part-2?showall=&start=6

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LLAK1UG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=small0c-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B076FZ7VJ2&linkId=4e15b03c9269738c292fff3aed0565cf

Several AC lite versions on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LITE-802-11ac-Gigabit-Dual-Radio/dp/B01DRM6MLI?crid=32ASJLA25JN0R&keywords=ubiquiti+access+point&qid=1540590671&s=Electronics&sprefix=ubiquiti+%2Celectronics%2C247&sr=1-5&ref=sr_1_5

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY?crid=32ASJLA25JN0R&keywords=ubiquiti+access+point&qid=1540590671&s=Electronics&sprefix=ubiquiti+%2Celectronics%2C247&sr=1-6&ref=sr_1_6

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Dual-Band-passive-UAP-AC-LITE/dp/B016K4GQVG?crid=32ASJLA25JN0R&keywords=ubiquiti+access+point&qid=1540590671&s=Electronics&sprefix=ubiquiti+%2Celectronics%2C247&sr=1-21&ref=sr_1_21

u/Adamsandlersshorts · 2 pointsr/computers

Never really offered advice on this so I'm not sure if my setup Is a budget build.

I had an old PC with an i3 6100 and 8GB RAM and a 250GB HDD. I bought an Intel Gigabit CT PCI-E Network Adapter EXPI9301CTBLK for $27 and installed it in the pc.

Then I burned a free copy of pfsense
and installed it to the computer. Pfsense is an open source router/firewall operating system. I turned my old pc into a router.

I bought a TP link 5 port network switch for 25 dollars.

I needed the switch so I could connect an access point to my router.

Last, I needed an access point. I had a linksys e1200 wireless router running tomato on it but I had money left over so I spent 75 dollars on a Ubiquiti unifi 802.11AC access point

That AP was the best thing I've ever bought. When you've had nothing but linksys or netgear wireless routers on your home network, you get used to having to reboot your router every day. At one point it got so bad that I had to make a script to reboot my router every time it lost Internet connectivity. I haven't rebooted my new AP in 9 months and I haven't had any performance loss.

 

I didn't need to invest in the network card for my pc because it had on board ethernet. I also didn't need to invest in the AP since I already had a linksys e1200. I only needed the switch to connect my AP.

Without those two purchases, my build cost 25 dollars. With the ap and network card(emphasizing that they weren't essential, just wanted) it cost me $125.

 

When I search on amazon "gaming router" they cost anywhere from 70 - 200 dollars so I would consider this a very cost effective build.

 

I get 50ms ping on League of Legends.

My speedtest.net results are 1ms ping, 65mbps download and 11mbps upload.

*I guess If you don't have an old PC you don't use this becomes more costly.

**Last update. I just searched Craigslist for used computers. I found dozens of used computers that have an Intel pentium 4 @ 3ghz or something similar, with 2-4GB RAM and a 100gb hard drive. The most expensive I saw was 100 dollars. The cheapest I saw was 40 dollars. If you don't have an old PC sitting around doing nothing, pick one up from,Craigslist for 40 bucks those specs will easily suffice considering routers run 8mb flash memory and 300mhz processors.

u/tribble222 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Yep, but just get the ac lite https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/

Pro is probably overkill for you

Actually both of these are likely overkill for home use, but once they're set up they should be rock solid and give you zero issues. And if you want to do anything fancy they support a ton of advanced features.

u/kangfat · 2 pointsr/PFSENSE

From my understanding pfsense doesn't do well with wifi cards. If you already have a router you could set it to AP mode and use it for wireless. Another popular option is to get a Ubiquiti device and use it for wireless. I myself have gone that route and use the AP-AC Lite. I don't really have a suggestion on a psu and case as I already have those. This case is what I'll be using since I already have it. I'll probably just go with this ram since it is pretty cheap.

u/lurkerpie · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Are all of those Cat5 cables fully wired and terminated for Ethernet connections?

If so, are you able to simply connect Wifi access points to each of the Ethernet cables in your home to provide a full wifi connection throughout? Or at least plug in an AP to the switch so you have both Ethernet connectivity and wifi?

I wouldn't recommend running a long chain of wifi signal boosters connected to one switch, and connected to another from there; if you can avoid it.

If you can have a router in your central networking closet, which has multiple Ethernet cables going through the walls into different rooms, you can plug Wireless Access Points on the other ends of those Cat5 cables, making a Star topology network rather than a Line or Tree network.

Each access point would then have equal speed to the main switch / router and provide a more stable connection.

As for a decent WAP, I believe these ones are nice: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=zg_bs_1194486_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7A2T4AH4W82EFXPBPJKG

u/McHalo3 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The easy way is to get a wireless extender. But in my experiences those things don't work well. here is an example

The Hard way is to get a wireless access point and connect it via Ethernet to your router (yes, making holes in walls and ceilings/floors). here is an example This will deliver the best quality and result but its more of a pain to do.

u/foodnguns · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

are you getting comcasts phone or are you planing to use voice over IP?

If your getting comcasts phone your options are limited to modems that support it.

If voice over ip,then no restrictions really modem wise.

If your getting comcasts phone,then atleast new, I dont see any modems that can support 400 mbps and voice in your range

If your not getting comasts phone then

Something like

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PR20GY/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_6_w

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-download-960Mbps-XFINITY-CM600-1AZNAS/dp/B06XGZBCKP

plus some cabling should be right around $300

that gets you a cable modem that can support your 400 mbps,a router that can route that fast with 2 open lan ports and an access point for wifi.

You can do 400 mbps over Ethernet on this set up,400 over wifi I imagine would be possible in the very best of conditions.

u/ryeseisi · 2 pointsr/PFSENSE

The AP will probably be the most expensive part to replace.

Unmanaged 8-port desktop switches can be had for less than $30.

A commonly recommended AP is the UAP-AC-Lite which will run about $80. However, the Ubiquiti products need a controller software to manage them. This either needs to come in the form of a "Cloud Key," which is almost another $100, or you would need to run the controller software on a PC. It does not need to be running all the time, only when you want to modify the settings of the AP.

If you currently have an all-in-one device, that can be used as a standalone AP for now to save some money. You would simply disable the firewall and DHCP/DNS Servers on it, and connect one of its LAN ports to a LAN port on your new router or switch.

It is going to be hard to find a device that is all-in-one that runs pfSense, since the WiFi compatibility of pfSense is abysmal. There are other solutions out there that are all-in-one, however most are either consumer/gamer level (think your Netgear Nighthawk and friends), or will be used enterprise equipment. I will let others comment on other possible solutions, as I have no personal experience with them.

u/dweezil22 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Maybe... You don't want a switch in between your modem and your router. In that case you'd want an actual router, though not necessarily a wireless one.

If you're tech savvy or like learning, this is where UBNT and some of its competitors are neat, b/c they treat the wifi access points and the routers as totally different modular components. I have a $50 UBNT Edgerouter X (looks like it's $60 or so on Amazon right now) and then use an $80 UAC lite access point for providing wireless. That actually ends up being $10 cheaper than a $150 Nighthawk and you can add all sorts of other neat crap on later if you want (and setup QoS on the ERX to prevent buffer bloat, and I think you can even run pi-hole directly on the ERX for house wide ad blocking without a dedicate PC, but that's on my "to research" list).

The downside: it's commercial grade hardware AND software, so certain things that you'd expect to be "easy" may require running actual command line scripts etc (for example, I wanted to turn off downstream DNS resolution so that a failed DNS lookup from 1.1.1.1 didn't bubble up to Verizon, this is a checkbox on most routers but requires a script on the ERX). I'm a software dev and I love being able to do so many things, but I set my in-laws up with a simple Google Wifi setup that just works that they never have to touch b/c that would be a nightmare for them.

And... I've looped back around to a UBNT ad by accident, /u/tatersnakes would be disappointed in me.

u/GTR128 · 2 pointsr/homelab

You can get an Edgerouter Lite (ERL-3), 2 UAP-AC-Lites, and an unmanaged gigabit switch to stay within your budget easily.

I have ubiquiti products at 2 sites, and have had no issues. Also the AC-Lites use Passive PoE which not all PoE switches have so you will more than likely just get a non-PoE (unless you need it for something else), and run the power injectors.

u/Vorwerkit · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Thanks, Something like this? Any chance you can recommend a product..?

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

u/mindhead1 · 2 pointsr/orbi

If you have the option for wired backhaul and are going to use the Orbi as an access point only, there are cheaper solutions that will yield just as good results.

A couple of these should do the trick in your house. Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAPACLITEUS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7fGxDbDFT10XV

The beauty of the Orbi is how well the wireless backhaul works. Why pay the premium and not use the features?

u/Tramd · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Well, unfortunately, consumer products suck. You can shell out $300 on a nighthawk router and still experience the same issues. Fuck that shit.

In my experience you have 2 options. Drop the money on an apple airport router (they're great) or drop the money on an enterprise AP (ubuiquiti). You can get a unifi AP for under $200.

If your ISP gives you a router free great, use that. Just disable the wireless and pick up a unifi AP for wireless.

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465095973&sr=8-2&keywords=unifi+ap

Please research the model because I have never used the non-pro ones.


Otherwise, pick up the airport for the all in one. You can't go wrong.

u/krakenant · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I haven't used consume grade APs in probably 8 years so I have no hands on experience. The what to buy thread in the sidebar suggests ubiquiti which is in the same price range as MikroTik, but a little easier to set up. The basic equivalent to the MikroTik I posted is https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1518904131&sr=1-6&keywords=ubiquiti

u/toomanytoons · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Time to modernize. A better router and a couple of decent access points and you should be set. Throw in some gigabit switches if you're still running old fast ethernet ones.

u/VileBooey · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Would be nice to have a separate network for the Guest House since it might turn into a rental down the line. Here is what I am looking at to order from Amazon:

2x Nanostations


1x Ubiquiti Switch


1x Ap-AC Lite Wireless Access Point

Or keep the Nighthawk Modem/Router and eliminate the switch and access point.

u/cozzbp · 1 pointr/Comcast

Router/Modem combos are horrible. Router/Wireless AP combos are almost as bad. These are the router and WAP I use:
http://amzn.to/2qzR4G1
http://amzn.to/2rzLWAh

The edgerouter is an enterprise device, so is much more powerful/complex to set up compared to traditional consumer devices. My uptime on my router is > 9 months though (as opposed to consumer routers which I had to manually reboot all the time).

My throughput on wired and wireless is phenomenal with this combo.

u/mathamatazz · 1 pointr/techsupport

Okay so 150 feet isn't all that long for a able run. I have done many runs that are longer and have run faster speeds.

Did you run it parallel to ANY electrical cables? If so this is your problem.

When you say your not getting 25 MbPS what is the speed your getting? How did you determine that speed? Are you aware there is a difference between Megabits and Megabytes per second? (And huge difference) so your download speed on Chrome is not your Internet speed.

Since you have a cable ran and you are need good WiFi look into a Ubiquiti Wireless AP unit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015PR20GY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500304812&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ubiquiti+wireless+access+point&dpPl=1&dpID=31-u-5bgo0L&ref=plSrch

I install these at work in residential homes. They are amazing. I installed the Pro version in businesses normally. (As they have an extra port for add another POE devices.)

Feel free to ask any questions and good luck getting it solved.

u/RidleyScotch · 1 pointr/buildapc

So just to make it clear for me it could basically go:

Ethernet cable coming into my room -> Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite -> Which will give off Wifi from it -> Which I can connect Galaxy tablet/Google Home/Google Chromecast

u/404Ender · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thank you both for the quick and helpful responses. I guess I'll give the Ubiquiti devices a shot. Is the AC Pro worth the extra money over the AC Lite? Also, could you confirm that these are the correct models? Amazon seems to have multiple of each line:

  • Lite
  • Pro

    A couple additional questions about these:

  • I read that they require the installation of additional software on a computer just to manage the APs. Does that software need to be running 24/7, or do I just open the app when I need to change some config?
  • How does PoE work? Do I need some sort of adapter, or will the ethernet outlets in my wall "just work" in terms of providing power?
u/dwk001 · 1 pointr/gadgets

I use the Edgerouter X (56.50) and UAP-AC-Lite ([79.15]
(https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526999758&sr=8-1&keywords=uapaclite))

 

I get that $135 investment is a lot, but it is not as much as the "high end gaming routers" that manufacturers push out. But I guarantee that my setup will be rock solid for a very very long time. And for a fraction of the Netgear (298.94, 248.99, 188.99), Asus (258.90, 235.91, 229.00), or Linksys routers (237.68, 249.97, 206.99)

 
 

Now yes, I did cherry pick some of the more expensive routers that these guys offer, but I chose their "gaming" routers. The edgerouter x and uap AP will provide just as many options and coverage as all of those much more expensive routers, as long as you're willing to do the setup.

u/Wadeace · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

first off, don't rent a router from your ISP. you will need to use a modem or gateway depending on the type of internet you are getting. if you are using cable or dsl i would also suggest to buy your own modem as well. it's a modern version of renting a rotary phone from the company and a racket.

you can get a router and wifi combo that is new and good for about $150 or more for faster or more advanced features.

as far as game plan for your home here is my suggestions
to start you off since you just moved in and are already renting it for now just use the provided router from to fiber provider so you can get connected and plan the rest of this build out.

depending on the layout and size of your home (cinder block construction is terrible for wifi and other rf signals) you may need multiple access points. my suggestion is to look into a brand of networking equipment called ubiquity.

they are relatively new to the market and have really shaken up the price and feature packs. set up is mainly through a web and mobile app and is very easy for a relatively new person to IT. there is also a huge community here on reddit and youtube showing off features and giving how to's.

here is my goto suggestion if you are willing to invest in an infrastructure more than a single router.

the fiber will come into your property and go through a modem and gateway provided by the isp you would then plug it into a router:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526552321&sr=8-2&keywords=unifi

This is a smaller model that is a router and firewall combo by ubiquity, its about 110 at amazon

Then you plug the router into a switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526552321&sr=8-3&keywords=unifi

This is a sort of backbone device that you would use to send the internet to other devices and for other devices to comunicate with each other. this one is a poe switch which means it can send power to some devices like access points over the one cat 5 cable. this one has 8 ports so that means 7 outboard devices can be connected to the network because one is needed for the router. they make larger ones with more ports for more devices. this model is currently 194 on amazon

you will then need access points:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1526552321&sr=8-5&keywords=unifi

these are radios that broadcast wifi to your wireless devises these connect to the switch with cat 5 cables and are best placed near where you are going to use wifi devises the average home would benefit from two or three of these one to cover the living room kitchen great room area and one to cover the bedroom hallway are and possibly one for the backyard pool area (that might be important because of your external walls). this model is currently 80 on amazon.

if you deploy this list you will also need a cloud key:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Cloud-Key-Control/dp/B017T2QB22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526553343&sr=8-1&keywords=cloud+key

this is a devise that manages the network and stores configuration files locally. it's like a mini server. this is about 78 on amazon.

you will also need cat 5/6/7 cables of various lengths and a power strip for about 500 you can get a really great network that can cover your whole house and that can easily be upgraded incrementally as technology improves. My suggestion would be to get all this mounted in a closet somewhere and get cat5/6/7 run to all the things that you can and place the access point in the house so you get the best coverage possible for the IOT devises in your house. as your network grows and you need more wired ports you can add a switch or replace the one with a 24 or 46 port one. when wifi tech improves past ag you can just replace the access points without affecting the rest of the network.another big thing is to run cable to anything you can this will help with keeping your wifi fast since there are less devices on the wifi.

Edit:
If there are two main points they would be:

  1. wire everything you can so that way the devises that need to be wireless can be faster
  2. Don't rent non-proprietary equipment from your ISP
u/Watada · 1 pointr/Comcast

Wired devices will definitely show an increase in speed. Wireless devices may see an increase in speed.

You could keep your current router, the RT-N66U and connect a wireless access point with ethernet, such as the Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC Lite, while disabling the RT-N66U's wireless so it won't interfere. Either way you do need to get that new modem first.

u/armaan56 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

could I use this you think then
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480101196&sr=8-1&keywords=edgerouter+x

2 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480101253&sr=8-1&keywords=ac+lite

Would this be good enough to provide the internet to my wireless devices/wired ones too? I also have a couple of netgear repeaters to provide internet in a far part of my house. Think the ac-lite would reach? House isn't that big. around 2000 sq ft

u/ModularPlug · 1 pointr/googlefiber

If you can run a cat5 cable to where the other box is, I’d say to turn off google WiFi and buy 2 (or more) of these Ubiquiti access points:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=asc_df_B015PR20GY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198138936631&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11706054629834333903&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009674&hvtargid=pla-381252494348&psc=1

You’ll still need the firewall/NAT/routing that the google network box provides, but if you run your own WiFi, you can have as many access points as you like and put them all over your house. The Ubiquiti access points allow you to broadcast a single SSID (WiFi name) that your phone/Roku/whatever will pick the strongest one and use that.

If you can’t physically run cat5 Ethernet wires to the location you want the WiFi transmitters, you can accomplish the same thing if you get a few of those “mesh” WiFi access points. I use Ubiquiti gear (wired), but I’be heard good things about Eero’s mesh networking equipment. Basically instead of wires, they wirelessly figure out the uplink back to the router (where you have one of the mesh devices plugged into Ethernet). I find the wired solution to be better for my setup (more reliable), but I’ve heard the mesh networking is pretty good as well.

u/larrylarrington03 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

The best way to do whole house wireless is to get 3 of these, 1 for each floor:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1505779608&sr=8-8&keywords=ubuiqiti

just turn off the wireless on the isp router because you'll be using the 3 access points. the AP has two ports on it so you can attach a switch to the one on the third floor to attach all the computers

u/tomgabriele · 1 pointr/Smartphones

> it's cheap

I think this is the part I take the most issue with. It's neither cheaper nor better than a "real" WAP/router/extender. The Raspberry Pi + SD card + case + power supply + ethernet cable + screen (+ ethernet switch if you need it) is going to be, what, $75? $75 can buy you a very nice, clean WAP.

If yours draws 1w at idle and the Ubiquiti draws about 3 watts, that's a savings of about $0.20/month...so that doesn't seem like a compelling difference either, especially because you are just trading power savings for lower transmission strength.

u/techgeekdude · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking
  1. If your ISP is charging a monthly fee, swap it all out. The rental fee is AWFUL in most cases, even if it's only $5.
  2. Some ISPs give you a modem/router for free and only charge to enable wifi. If it's is the case, disable that and start slapping on some of these. You'd be amazed at what happens when you put 2 of these in various places throughout the house. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY or https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0ED-0005-000V6
  3. If you want something even better, completely swap out what the ISP provides. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C


    You can get advice on "running cables" at various places online. It's basically just putting cables in nice out of the way areas (think inside the walls or attic). Similarly, you can "terminate" cables and place RJ45 jacks on a cable at any length to get custom cable lengths - useful if you buy cable in bulk or want to reuse older cord.
u/superprokyle · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thanks for the advice - seems like the best solution. Purchased one and will see how the range and performance is before I buy another. Also appreciate your use non-technical language and providing a simple overview (exactly what I need haha).

To be clear, I only need to buy the following: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

u/ballpythonjosh · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Oh that's cool I wasn't completely sure if you had to keep the controller running.

I have been looking at these two routers.

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1449531583&sr=1-4&keywords=ubiquiti

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Edgerouter-Router-ERLITE-3/dp/B00HXT8EKE/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1449549072&sr=1-7&keywords=ubiquiti+router

I do some large file transfers over the wired side of the network so I thought it may be worth it to get the second one listed. Also we have between 15-30+ devices connected at any time but probably most of them are idle.

These were the AP's that I was looking at

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-Unifi-UAP/dp/B00HXT8R2O/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31DJWuaQDOL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=13TM14RQA56J7T55G2B1

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1449550183&sr=1-10&keywords=ubiquiti+ap+dual+band

I would probably just do the Wireless N one but idk. Do you have any thoughts or recommendations on these?

Thanks really appreciate it!

u/mercenary_sysadmin · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

> I'm curious. What exactly is inferior in performance about having multiple Archer C7s?

To be fair, I specifically said:

> I'd definitely bet on a pack of UAPs over a single Archer C7.

Emphasis added in the quote.

With that said, though, let's answer your question: why would a pack of UAPs be superior to a pack of Archer C7s?

First off, I'm not sure exactly how well a pack of C7s would assist stubborn client devices with roaming (as the UAPs certainly do). Frankly that's a bit of a sticky topic as not all clients support AP-based roaming handoff protocols, and even a lot of the APs themselves don't bother with it and do proprietary management involving kicking stubborn clients from the BSSID of sub-optimal APs directly, forcing them to seek a different BSSID (and hopefully this time choosing a better one).

Moving on from what roaming assistance you might or might not get - or need, depending on your client, which very well might already be perfectly competent at figuring that sort of thing out for itself unassisted - UAPs aren't terribly expensive. An Archer C7 is about $90. A UAP-AC Lite is actually less money, at $80... and it supports PoE, comes with a PoE injector included in the cost, has vastly superior mounting options, has a unified controller interface, good god, I could go on and on.

The Archer C7 has somewhat better range than a UAP AC Lite, but not enough better to justify giving up all that and an extra $10 per unit. Hands down, if you're doing multiple APs, the UAP is a better option than a bunch of C7s.

u/ahave · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I got this guy: Ubiquiti Networks UniFi AC Lite AP Enterprise Wi-Fi System (UAP-AC-LITE) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_J0mRwbN35JD7T

No idea if he is the new or old model. I was enticed by the sale price, perhaps I should have been wary.

u/ragaboo · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Awesome. Final question: Amazon has two AC-LITEs that look relatively indistinguishable. The only difference I can see (from the compare section) is that one is 802.11 instead of 801.11. I assume the 802 is the newer, faster version you speak of? Or are those actually the same device, and Ubiquiti/Amazon just has different, confusing listings?

u/zardvark · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Keep the router, disable the WiFi and add an absolutely superb wireless access point to your network. It's a bit over your budget, but it will serve you well for years to come:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481251759&sr=8-1&keywords=unifi+ap+ac+lite

This is regular price. Shop around and you may find a deal, especially as the holidays approach.

u/Greg00135 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

For a router and two poe AP you are looking at about $200. Edge Router X $53.50 and Unifi Ap-AC Lite $78.96

u/TaedusPrime · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have this

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

and this

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502136969&sr=1-3&keywords=ubiquiti+edgerouter+x

The combination of which is pretty popular and has been rock solid for me. I don't stream my games but I stream 4k content to my tv while my roommate games with no issues.

Setup is not as straight forward as other setups but they're are plenty of guides and videos to setting it up.

u/Currentpenguin · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAPACLITEUS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ovzIzbVW3BAYN

u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

this

these

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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/EvanKaplan20 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Im honestly not sure but i saw your post is a few hours old and doesnt have any comments yet so i figured id take a stab at it lol

Is there any way your room for some reason has some sort of aluminum in the walls or ceiling somewhere for some reason? Aluminum blocks radio frequency and can sometimes cause signal loss in certain places in certain homes. Have you tried putting the router actually inside of your room to see if the same loss happens? If it doesnt and you can leave the router there, great. But if you have to move the router you could always get an AP for inside of your room

EDIT: since you said your desktop is hardwired from your roomates room it would actually be easy to implement an AP. Just pick up a Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite and have it be hardwired from your roomates room, and then from the AP to your pc so thats still hardwired as well. (or just use one of those other routers as an AP since i saw you have like 3)

u/Bhaikalis · 1 pointr/Fios

> it's because we had an outdated router

Verizon agent is bullshitting you

Do you configure the extender and connected to the LAN port on your router? Also, what is the reason you got this extender for? Extenders are pretty much garbage. If you are trying to fix a wifi coverage issue you should look into getting an access point rather than extender. The extender will likely just provide you with half the bandwidth it gets. An access point like Ubiquiti AC Lite will provide better coverage without the sacrifice of speed or bandwidth

u/Landowns · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

OK, is this a good one for a small home?

u/techtornado · 1 pointr/Chattanooga

Yikes, that definitely makes for a bad time, if you're tech-savvy, Ubiquiti is a robust brand that will outlast anything consumer-grade. Otherwise, I can find Asus or Netgear all-in-one.

ERX is the wired router
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ER-X-Router/dp/B0144R449W


AC-Lite or Mesh for wifi
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-M-US-Unifi-Access-Point/dp/B01N9FIELY/

u/Squadeep · 1 pointr/techsupport

Correct answer is to use real access points. Ubiquiti unifi is dumb easy to setup and you can get the cheap ones and just turn the shit ISP WiFi off. It'll cost you a bit more but is the correct way.

Ui.com

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_Y1lKDbMB3KYQA

u/Miggles · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

About $130.

Though I got an Edgerouter X as well, which cost another $90 so I completely replaced all my other routers/access points, this part is optional.

u/gerdesj · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

If your current "router" (apart from the wifi) is OK then add an additional wifi AP and $100 should get you a reasonably decent one. A separate wifi access point (wifi AP) is simply a bridge which means that it will put all of the things connected to it onto your network. This also means that you are not throwing away your current working system and starting from scratch.

This: https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-lite/ is roughly $89 RRP
or https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498005678&sr=8-1&keywords=unifi-ac-lite - at $77 a pop. I'll assume you are US based and I've used the US version of Amazon for that.

There's an app that you install on your phone (cell) to find it and configure it and off you go or you can install and fire up the full Unifi gateway software which can be a bit tricky but has a few more features that I don't think you will need.

u/nmk456 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Are you using wifi to test the speed? If so, try connecting a computer with an ethernet cable (any type will do, if it was bought in the last 20 years). Make sure all other devices are off, or at least not using data. To test, use speedtest.net. It will automatically choose the best server and measure your speeds. If your speeds are still slow, it is your ISP's fault. Contact them and figure it out with them.

If your speeds are fine with ethernet, then it's a wifi issue. Your current router can handle 60 Mb of network traffic, just not through wifi. It could also be metal pipes in your walls creating a Faraday cage. In either case, you should buy a Ubiquiti access point. This is the cheapest option, this one is more powerful, and this is designed for use in large buildings or spaces. They are probably some of the best access points you can get but might take a little setup.

u/TBT_TBT · 1 pointr/homelab

Don't get me wrong, I am a fan of Ubiquiti and have my whole network "Unify"ed. One thing I like are the low prices. A AP AC lite: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY would be 80$, that is a really very good price for an enterprise AP.

A thing to keep in mind: you don't have a web interface on the AP itself, Unifi is a controller based wifi / networking system. The controller is a piece of software that can run on your computer, but best runs all the time so that you can get the advantages of that (e.g. statistics, a guest portal, etc.). Some features require a USG (their router), some need Unifi switches.

I highly recommend investing in a Unifi system, as you can get prosumer / soho features for consumer prices. Just have a look at https://demo.ubnt.com/ concerning their great "single pane of glass" interface. It doesn't matter if you have 1 or 100 APs, you simply can define you want a new SSID and the controller provisions it to the APs.

u/Grim667 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

That is a lot of information. If I choose the Ubiquiti would the AC-Lite be enough for my use? I have found it here for 81US$:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540331007&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+lite

The pro version seems a lot more expensive. As for the DFS, I live in Mexico (Mexico city) and even though I searched for the regulations I am not sure about it.

​

u/Roboman1723 · 1 pointr/buildmeapc

Easy peasey:

Modem: Netgear 8x4

Router: Edge Router X

Access Point: UAP-AC-Lite

This will be absolutely rock stable and will max your speeds easily. Will require you to do a tad bit of setup but it's very easy. If you need an explanation on why this is better than something you could buy at BestBuy let me know.

u/JustPlainTed · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

So I'd be tempted to suggest getting a UniFi Lite. You disable the WiFi on the current router, plug the Lite into one of the LAN ports and use the Lite to do the Wireless part. You can manage and set it up with your phone initially. I did this once with a cheap old wireless router for someone and it worked great as the router was fine for everything except the Wireless part so I only needed to use the UniFi Lite to 'upgrade' the wireless.

If you buy on Amazon, you could always return it if it does not work for you. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499783410&sr=8-1&keywords=unifi+lite

u/manarius5 · 1 pointr/techsupport

So, you'd run a wire from your main router/gateway/modem/whatever to an access point somewhere else.

The Ubiquiti AP AC-Lite is a popular model.

u/newnetworknoob · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

First of all, thank you very much for the help. The TP-LINK is a TL-SF1005D, which is unmanaged, so you are correct, no IP. Not sure how I came up with the IP conflict earlier.

I've updated the future network diagram here (new equipment in orange): http://imgur.com/qoyRQi4

It looks like I will need:

(1) [UBIQUITI USG] (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495983480&sr=8-1&keywords=Ubiquiti+USG)

(1) 16 PORT SWITCH

(1) [UPS] (https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1495985064&sr=1-4&keywords=apc+ups)

(3) UAP-AC-LITE

Questions:

  • Is it worth spending the extra money for a ubiquiti switch vs netgear?

  • Should I replace the 5 port TP-Link in the office to match the new 16 port switch?

  • It looks like the UAP-AC-LITE has two ethernet connections. Is one in and one out to a hardwired device?

  • Will the UAP-AC-LITE work like a wifi extener? No hard wired connection in, ethernet out to a device?

    Cost effective question:

  • Would it be feasible to disable the 2.4 and 5.0 network on the existing E2500 router and install a UAP-AC-LITE for wifi?
u/c47v3770 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I was looking at the unifi APs. Thoughts on the AC Lite

u/mojo8675309 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

What is the difference between this and this? Amazon says the second one is "newer"

u/Truthseeker308 · 1 pointr/Fios

Ubiquiti Edge Router X

It's not 'stupid-easy' to configure, but it has a wizard(update the firmware first, which is easy). There are a lot of videos on how to configure for a basic network. Also, it's $49(little higher now while stocks are low). Given how cheap it is, you can then get one of the Unifi Wifi APs for $81. Also easy to set up with a phone app.

Together, you have a pretty powerful combination, and when(not if) they upgrade the wifi standard, you only need to replace the AP, not the whole router. That router is rock solid and has never failed me.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

u/asdfirl22 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thank you for the suggestion. There appears to be multiple models. Looking at the comparison on https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-lite/ , I think I would be fine with the lite version for under $100.

However, it sounds like Unifi requires a LAN cable and cannot be bridged over WiFi, is that correct? I'd rather not run an ethernet cable throughout the apartment for the AP.

$171.99 Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US)

$127.00 Ubiquiti Networks UAP-AC-PRO-E Access Point Single Unit NEW (No PoE Included In Box)

$81.77 Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAPACLITEUS)

u/_munchbutt · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Ahh, since I do have an ac1750 in possession, would it be good enough to just skip the ac1900 instead? That way, I would have a bigger budget when I do plan on switching to the Ubiquiti APs.

Planning to get the USG, switch, and one or two APs. What else will I need?

u/jamvanderloeff · 1 pointr/techsupport

What models are the current ones you're using?
The UniFi range is nice and can do seamless transitions between different APs so long as you have a computer running their control software, but are kinda expensive https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1524752349&sr=8-8&keywords=802.11+ac+access+point

There's a huge range of access points/routers available.

u/specfreq · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

This is a popular choice because of it's affordable price. There are a couple of issues on the management side of things, but if all you want is WiFi it'll rock.

Review link

u/phabeon · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I am hearing more and more about these Unifi AP AC Lites..

How is their coverage?

i.e. is one sitting in the 1st floor living room of a Colonial(2 stories+basement) enough to cover a 1700sq foot house?

In other words, will upstairs be ok as well as basement level?

u/kickingtelevision · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thank you for the response. Are you suggesting that I can get the following:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-ER-X-SFP-US-Advanced-Gigabit/dp/B012X45WH6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1467112450&sr=8-5&keywords=Ubiquiti+EdgeRouter

and https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467112342&sr=8-1&keywords=Ubiquiti+UniFi+AP+AC+Lite

Please correct me if I'm mistaken, but you're suggesting that the EdgeRouter and the UniFi is an access point that will help "boost" signal? The only "hardwired" devices connected directly to my router is the TiVo box. Might there be any resources on this type of configuration you're describing? Perhaps more complicated than the suggested TP router below, but this might be a more "powerful" solution. Again, thanks for your suggestion.

u/Reo_Strong · 1 pointr/networking

If you want something a bit more business class (and to save some money) look into a Ubiquity AP and edge router.

Those two will likely be a bit more flexible than the RT-AC3200. Also, if you decide that you need another AP, you can pick one up and get away with simply running another wire.

u/andrwmorph · 1 pointr/linux

Thanks for the clarification. I was actually mixing up their Pro and their AC line. I have a UAP-AC-LITE-US in my house.

u/niceflipflop · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

See my edit above, just in case.

This could be done. Even without what I described above. Even if you can't futz with the settings, you could move the router into the garage. You already have that ethernet line running into your house. You could put an access point in the house in the router's place (or a switch + an AP if you need ports in the house) and then do what you need to with the outbuilding.

Plus, you'd have wifi in the garage, as well. :-)

u/Inacube · 1 pointr/gigapower

I'd suggest getting something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510783248&sr=8-2&keywords=ubiquiti

I disabled the ATT router's wifi, and I have one of those downstairs and another upstairs. They're wired wifi repeaters and did wonders to improve my signal vs. just going off the ATT wifi router.

u/netzdamon · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Probably one of these

u/PriceKnight · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Price History


  • Ubiquiti Networks Router (ER-X)   ^PureLink
    ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.6/5 from 191 valid reviews
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  • Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite Wireless Access Point 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAPACLITEUS)   ^PureLink
    ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.5/5 from 746 valid reviews
    CamelCamelCamel - [Info]Keepa - [Info]

    _
    These prices aren't just Black and White.
    ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fcpmnkr%2Frouter_tplink_archer_c7_ac1750_gigabitrouter%2Fewqlzns%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A
    %0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
u/piercedtiger · 1 pointr/chartercable

Unifi is a line of business grade network equipment from Ubiquiti. Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAPACLITEUS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AKiwDb09ETXQD

After trying several wireless access points from Linksys, TP-Link and Netgear I gave them a try with an older A a few years ago. After not having to reboot them monthly or bi-weekly and able to pull full speed tests I was sold. Now I'm running 2 of their AC Lites linked above, and 2 8-port managed switches. So much easier to troubleshoot speed issues and the annoying buffering problems I had with Kodi. Lol The two APs cover our 2900sqft house with 5 laptops, 3 Roku TV's, PS4, XBone, and several phones.

When we switched from DSL to TW they were still charging $5/month to turn on the wifi in their modems so I got in the habit of not using it. Even with purchasing my own modem the built-in wifi wasn't good enough. So I just turn it off and run separate APs.

u/nakedyak · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

That sounds easier to be honest. Any router suggestions or does Ubiquiti have one? If I were to get this AP https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=pd_cp_147_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0XG5V2764X8RN7HC8NCS

What is involved in setting them up and connecting them to the existing network?

u/iAmNotLukeSkywalker · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

ok so im gonna try what you are suggesting i want to buy this edgerouter
and this access point for now. if i see how well it goes ill buy additional APs and switches. but do i currently need anything else other then that router and ap? like does it come with its own power cables and ethernet cables or is there specific ones i need to buy?

u/dlink377 · 1 pointr/jailbreak

That one is unreasonably expensive for home usage. Anyway that is the old model which I believe they don't sell it anymore. The new one is better, just the mounting kit is plain shit compared to older model.

Ubiquiti Networks UniFi AC Lite AP Enterprise Wi-Fi System (UAP-AC-LITE-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sP2zxb6WXBBMJ

u/NotBillNyeScienceGuy · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

This one should be good for your needs... Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAPACLITEUS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sgolDb3Z8B40D

u/iamoverrated · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You'd be better off segregating your devices. Use the modem for a modem, get a Ubiquiti Edge Router, and then get an Access point like a Ubiquiti AC Lite. Your current modem is fine; it's on their 2018 approved list. Also, pulling down 100Mb/s isn't very taxing. It's when you start pulling down 300+ that you need much more expensive gear.


If this set up is too complicated, I'd still recommend getting a separate router / access point combo. TP-Link is a great brand and many of their SOHO routers are compatible with 3rd party firmware, such as DD-WRT or OpenWRT.

u/Slightlyevolved · 1 pointr/homelab

Sounds like a UniFi AP AC Lite would do a bang up job.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/

u/Zenov · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518895521&sr=8-2&keywords=ap-ac+lite

Run an ethernet cable to that and set it up. You can use a different SSID if you want but I would set it as the same SSID and password/security type and then your devices should switch when the access point is closer to them.

u/sunrainbowlovepower · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I just asked another guy but Ill ask you as well. If youre willing to help me get in over my head, please do. I want to order a Ubiquiti Edge Router X and hook it up to a Ubiquiti AC Lite access point. And I'll need a modem for that right? I just bought a TP Link modem but I can send that guy back if ya think its lame or whatever.

I'm pretty sure thats a common reccomendation but I've never used anything but consumer stuff like a Linksys. Or I just bought a TP Link AC3150 that I am sending back because the 5G kept disappearing and after a few weeks the WiFi completely disappeared permanently.

Will I have a firewall and shit? Does a consumer router automatically have that or something? What modem should I get? I dont need much control, just want to set a custom DNS for streaming NHL games.

Anyways, this is too long. Thanks if you help me out.

u/TheCuriousDude · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

What's the difference between the Unifi Ap-AC Lite and the UAP-AC-LITE?

>That way you can have both your main and guest/IoT network on the same physical hardware (no need for the old Netgear) but still secure from each other.

How does this work? One review talks about an always-running UniFi "controller". Another talks about "CloudKey"? I'd rather deal with different physical hardware than have to deal with server maintenance or cloud software.

u/Smallmammal · 0 pointsr/sysadmin

Generally home equipment isnt designed for high thoroughput or many active clients. The firmware will crap out or it'll run out of ram or overheat, etc. The minor cost savings aren't worth it.

$500 CAD should get you three ubiquiti Unify's:

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-Unifi-UAP/dp/B00HXT8R2O

or the newer model with 5ghz and 1gbps connector:

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=pd_sim_147_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41k0AG3kfjL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1JHXX8FBC0ZPS49SRCZT

Heck, you should have enough left over to buy the little 4port PoE switch they make that can power these (they are not standard PoE)

For 800sq feet without a lot of walls, you can probably just get away with two of these. You're much better off with multiple AP's and a non-crap brand.

u/ravenousld3341 · 0 pointsr/ITCareerQuestions

I got you fam.

Time to build a lab.

A stackable managed 48 port switch with sfp uplinks.

Managed router with good security options and support for multiple VLANS

Some Access Points

Set you back about 500-700 USD, but this is as close to enterprise as you can get in your home. Do your best to use the CLI to configure the switch, GUI is fine for this firewall/router.

The APs can be managed with UniFi just like an enterprise system.

There's also a pretty good market for old cisco gear. Hunt down 3560, or 3750 which are old, but good enough to learn stuff with. They run for around 80-200 USD for a 48 port switch.

u/AccountIsTaken · -1 pointsr/homelab

That linked AP is a 2x2 mimo which supports a max throughput of 867MHZ on the AC 5Ghz. The UAP AC Pro is a 3x3 which has a throughput of 1300MHZ on the 5ghz band. They're not in the same class of products.

The equivalent would be the AC-Lite which is $22 more expensive than the TP Link