Reddit mentions of UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB Active PoE Splitter Power Over Ethernet 48V to 5V 2.4A for Tablets, Dropcam or Raspberry Pi (48V to 5V 2.4A)

These, and a PoE switch: https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7

I suspect it doesn't get much press because most home setups don't have PoE and the average person has no idea what it is or what it can do. PoE switches are more expensive and you have to deal with power allocation and I think for this reason a lot of home gear doesn't include it because probably a single digits percentage of users would capitalize on it.

Anyway, if you have it there are also several PoE splitters available which takes PoE in and outputs Ethernet plus USB/Lightning or other power tips at 5V or 12V depending on the splitter. So even if your device is not PoE if it is Ethernet and USB power then you're golden. They aren't expensive either.

Examples:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CDT7KPO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D98PGZG

I used these splitters to power cameras and Ring keypads and RPi's and all kinds of crap. Cheaper and easier than PoE injectors so long as you have PoE switch to begin with.

Same here! They have these POE micro USB splitters that split off 5v and Ethernet for like $10 bucks. I was thinking about integrating the adapter into the sled and have keyhole jacks in the back that the sled connects to. Power and Ethernet in one connection!

Link for PoE adapter:UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB Active PoE Splitter Power Over Ethernet 48V to 5V 2.4A for Tablets, Dropcam or Raspberry Pi (48V to 5V 2.4A) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nD4RCb22AX9KB

I recently upgraded to their 24-port PoE switch and I'm very happy with it. It's powering my now 3 UAP's & cloud key, as well as two raspberry pi's that I run pi-hole on. (I'm using these to provide power to the rasperry pi's). Aside from the cleaner wiring, it's also very handy for getting more insight into your network traffic, etc.

I used the following guide for my setup.

https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/chromecast/xo_NDh5CZA8;context-place=topicsearchin/chromecast/category$3Achrome-os

The ethernet adapter I got was the Linksys USB3GIG. It is nice that the USB3GIG supports 1000Gb and has USB3.0 to take full advantage of the bandwidth in theory.

My setup cost me $29, but it can be done for $20.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXAC1ZW

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C

Edit: I changed the amazon links since I didn't realize amazon shorten links are referral links.

Yeah! I've been using THESE for my 1st / 2nd / 3rd generation Raspberry Pi's, hopefully the new ones take up less space / are easier to manage cables for. (Note: they work well with my UniFi PoE switches)

For powering the Pi. Previously you would have had to use something like this.

Can you find a display that is powered from the RPi itself? If so, then you can power the RPi from this device for $11.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7/

Here are two comments from this Amazon page:

I bought this for a FingBox (5v 2A, micro USB) and it works great! Also hooked it up to a RPi3 with the RPi touch display. Worked just fine, but I must admit I didn't leave it running long, just booted it up. Using this w/ the FingBox saves me from using an AC outlet in my server closet which are in short supply. Must use 48V POE on the switch.

Works perfectly. My switch recognizes it as a class 3 PoE device, and typically consuming 3.1 to 3.5 watts of power. It plugged right into my pi (with a 3.5" display) and so far I have not found any problems.
The only thing I'd mention is there's no clear indication of which network connection faces the switch, and which faces the client device. I took a guess that with the male RJ45 and micro-usb cable being the same length, that was where the pi should go, and I was correct. (I include a picture of the "correct" manner of connecting it.)

Hope this helps.

You could always get something like this to power it, assuming that the power requirements of the device don't exceed the rating of the adapter.

PoE adapter for only 1 cable run to the Pi and consolidated AC/DC conversion in my PoE switch for better efficiency (and UPS runtime). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_jDYrwuD1vAMfp

https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/

Has an led on it or add your own via usb power pins

Hope your ubiquiti switches actually provide standards-compliant Poe and not ubiquiti’s proprietary piece of shit “passive Poe”

UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB Active PoE Splitter Power Over Ethernet 48V to 5V 2.4A for Tablets, Dropcam or Raspberry Pi (48V to 5V 2.4A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TzBQAbBD26FC3

I purchased one of these for a project. Seemed to work well with the pi.

UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

That's been possible for quite a while. Here ya go, 30 bucks for a pack of 4. They're actual 802.3af compliant pass-through splitters, not the ghetto "passive PoE" variety.
https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/

Probably even cheaper on Aliexpress, Banggood etc - this one's even a prime item.

This one is working really well for me.

UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB Active PoE Splitter Power Over Ethernet 48V to 5V 2.4A for Tablets, Dropcam or Raspberry Pi (48V to 5V 2.4A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zu0UAb40HEMQG

I'm just gonna use this. Not as pretty but works.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Been using two of these for almost two years. Solid.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am using this for powering the Pi over POE:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Each node / R-Pi / SBC gets one of these: https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/

This is going into /r/homelab territory, but I've gotten a few of these guys to power some Pis, gateways, etc, from my switch at home. They can be used to power anything that's USB.

At work, in the theater, there's some iPads mounted on the walls for the sound system (you can remotely control the faders and such). They have a small PoE to USB-A brick inside, which run back to the sound cabinet where a small trendnet PoE switch lives. keeps then charged, but also cycles some battery when you turn the rack off.

Another thing to keep in mind that as the switch is powering more, it's going to take more power, which means you may need a larger UPS.

You cab also use something like this that will work and is much cheaper than having PoE directly on the Pi

Rather than 3D print something, maybe consider something like this (http://imgur.com/gallery/tBaSB). It's what I'm planning to do. Mix it with a POE adapter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7) for power and it should be great.

Make them buy PoE splitters, the cheap kind with USB 5V output and no pass-through capability.

That way they have a "filter" for their devices, and can also charge their cell phones :)

This is currently just my mounting mock up. My internals consist of a pi, RTL-SDR, an LNA and a PoE -> Ethernet/Micro USB splitter (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=PoE+splitter+raspberry+pi&qid=1569268346&s=gateway&sr=8-4 ) I'll be running some Outdoor rated/UV Stable/Direct Bury Cat 6 up to the housing for power & data once it's up at the top.

Nothing too fancy about my pi-holes running on RPi 3's. I am running a slightly modified version of chronometer2, and since my switch is PoE I'm using that as a power supply for the Pi's. I found this handy PoE splitter that works wonderfully for powering the Pi's from the switch.

Something like this?.... Interesting idea. Thanks!

I am running a pi hole and use this to power and connect the zero to the POE switch.. Works remarkable well and I think it was about 8 bux when I bought it.

Shouldn't be a problem, this also allows you to put a ups on the switch and not have to worry about any poe powered devices going down. Also allows you to power cycle a device just by disabling/enabling the port it's on. I use these all over the place, much cheaper than the hats.

If you're cheap and not bothered by the aesthetics you can also use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/

You can using either the official Raspberry Pi PoE hat or an adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_-VWFDbQP627W6

My home network is also all Unifi and about every Raspi I have on it is running off of PoE. It's a little more challenging making it look pretty with cable management but I'm always happy to save a power outlet where I can.

I run one of these on my Pi3 and it works like a champ

You can use a Canary or Piper plus a POE splitter cable like this one. Both have ethernet ports and a micro usb port. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v1JcAb66BJK36 Arlo Q also has a POE model. All are essentially kind of bleh without the reoccuring services. Arlo Q is free* but my suspicion is that is only till they dominate the market and wipe out the little startups. Most people willing to run POE will just do a NVR solution since the total cost of ownership is lowest that way. It does put more responsibility on you the owner to keep up with patches and security. Blink and arlo battery powered are motion triggered so expect to miss a lot of motion or recharge more often.

I think you can do it if you're willing to settle for two separate adapters - first a PoE to separate Ethernet+MicroUSB, and then Ethernet+MicroUSB to OTG.

For instance this Ethernet-OTG adapter - which I know works with a Chromecast - would probably work fine with this adapter this adapter.

It was mentioned in a comment above. I don't see any USB C ones, however you can buy a small MicroUSB to USBC dual pack for $10-15.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7

What is this splitter that you talk about. So I plug in the ethernet cable into the PoE switch. Then what do I need at the other end? So the power goes from the switch, though the cable into the camera.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525311114&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=ethernet+poe+splitter+usb+micro&psc=1

APs and cameras for the most part. You can also get POE splitter to power other electronics like a pi-hole or IoT.

If you run your POE switch through a backup battery that benefit will extend out to the devices it powers.

Edit: spelling and stuff

Are you using one of the 48V to 5V PoE splitters which have recently come to popularity?

I had one connected to my switch to power my Pi and it seemed to do something to the Pi preventing the ethernet link from coming up.

I use this one. It's a bit longer than the one OP posted. But its not as wide.
It works great. I'm using it for a Zero cam in my garage. But either one should be fine.

The chromecast adapter is just a usb Ethernet adapter though right (doesn't actually have poe?)? Curious why people are using that vs any other usb ethernet adapter, is it because it happens to have the microusb jack so no usb adapter needed?

Its too bad nobody makes a ENC28J60 with poe power on the board, those can be had for a couple dollars if you are willing to wait for it from china and are common to pair with a pi zero so lots of info available.

Here is a true 48v poe to 5v adapter you can use with the chromcast adapter or the enc28j60: https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7

No data, and no PoE support from Wyze.

But you can use these to do your own PoE to them.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7

I have used that one successfully in a location far too distant to use USB cables for power.

The default config does not have POE available, but it can be added with the following: https://store.gl-inet.com/products/mini-poe-module . Alternatively I may go with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=poe+micro+usb&qid=1571789262&sr=8-3

Get a 802.3af PoE splitter. It is cheaper than the PoE HAT and is rated for 5V at 2.4A.

Still need hat, I missed that. Would need to buy one:

You can use either official hat, which is ugly, and has fan which I do not like:
https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/poe-hat/

Or this hat:
https://www.amazon.com/NavoLabs-Raspberry-Pi-POE-Hat/dp/B07CLCFLH8

Or even this:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3847

Update:
After thinking about this, I think I will just go with POE USB splitter, and forget about POE capability of Raspberry:
https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7

Will this work? I’ve not tried it.
https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539355869&sr=8-3&keywords=poe+to+usb&dpID=41yrqOTd9zL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Hey, I just the hub and it’s perfectly working. Thanks for making this product.

PS. I was able to buy a POE adapter for it.
PI POE Adapter

Just to clarify, you're powering it over PoE? I'm new to RPi...so forgive me. Are you using "The Hat" or something like this. The latter seems like a better, cheaper & easier solution to me.

Using any particular distro? Or just plain old Raspbian? And how are you viewing that on the RPi? Just browser session in full screen? RTSP via VLC or some equivalent?

Our office is offsite from this location (accessible over our private WAN though), so would like some ability remote in and troubleshoot if the feed is down or not displaying properly. I'm assuming VNC would be OK for that unless there's a more elegant solution.

Yeah. Their racks are pricey for what they are and I dislike their functionality where it looks like the USB and Ethernet ports of the RPi are internal (based on the switch in this diagram) to the chassis.

I agree the PoE hats make it nice and clean in terms of cable management but this type of splitter is a wonderful, cheaper replacement that doesn't block the GPIO pins.

Mine was sold with an antenna, but there's other inmarsat traffic to poke at after Outernet moves. :)

I like the $49 price point, that's sort of a psychological magic spot. Under $50 for a board that's similar to any of the $30-40-ish embedded boards plus a $20 rtlsdr plus a $5 USB hub all built in? Yeah, that's pretty sweet. Somebody's gonna pair that sucker with a PoE splitter and put it tower-top.

Okay, so here's my logic: Let's assume a single SKU doesn't make sense long-term. You want to get the cost down on the 256MB, Outernet-specific version. So make that one. What's the most sensible configuration for the other(s)? Can just one additional SKU bring broader appeal?

I feel like making the 512MB version with 1090-specific RF parts might be the best route for general-purpose functionality. It still has the bypass path for "everyone else", the ADS-B market seems pretty active, and it would seem to minimize module count and soldering for the largest number of users. I never even looked to see if the bypass path also has bias-tee functionality, but that would be good.

And for those of us who want to build our own filters right into the thing, since we're comfortable with soldering already by definition, we can always scrape off the 1090 parts and reuse the pads. :)

The only folks left out in the cold by that split would be those who want to do L-band stuff but need the big RAM. Which is definitely a few people -- but I think most of 'em already have a Dreamcatcher, probably? Or just do another run of those and set 'em up as a while-supplies-last third SKU. Which may have been what just happened with the clearance sale. They had their chance!

Could (all) the alternate version(s) be offloaded to rtl-sdr.com or someone? So the only one you'd be on the hook for supporting would be the "official" Skylark-specific board, and everything else is for experimenters, here's a schematic, here's the radionerds page, figure the rest out.

I have used "passive PoE splitters" like these along with a buck regulator similar to this to implement my own DIY PoE solution for remotely powering RPIs. This will only work with "Alternative B" PoE (see "Mode B" and/or "Mode A").

Alternatively, you could use something like this which is basically the above solution in a single device (and didn't exist when I built my system).

All the above product links are super cheap-o Chinesium units; you've been warned :-/