#488 in Electronics
Use arrows to jump to the previous/next product
Reddit mentions of UGREEN USB Audio Adapter External Stereo Sound Card with 3.5mm Headphone and Microphone Jack for Windows, Mac, Linux, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS5 (Black)
Sentiment score: 28
Reddit mentions: 57
We found 57 Reddit mentions of UGREEN USB Audio Adapter External Stereo Sound Card with 3.5mm Headphone and Microphone Jack for Windows, Mac, Linux, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS5 (Black). Here are the top ones.
Buying optionsView on Amazon.com
- UGREEN Aux to USB adapter offers an easy and portable way to upgrade the sound quality of your favorite laptop or desktop computer. This USB to audio jack gives you easy access to a wide selection of audio input and output ports so you can plug in a microphone, a gaming headset, or speakers. You could even use the external sound card to plug in a home theater sound system or to assist in recording music or podcasts.
- Seductive Sound for You: With a built-in DAC high-resolution chip, UGREEN USB to headphone jack for PC provides you with high fidelity audio. Up to 16bit/48kHz of sampling rate, this audio adapter could enhance the original sound quality of your devices.
- Plug and play: No driver required, just plug and play! USB bus-powered, no external power required for this convenient sound card. In addition, UGREEN Aux to USB can work as a second sound source for simultaneous operation of speakers and headphones.
- Wide Compatibility: The USB to audio jack is Compatible with Windows 11/10/98SE/ME/2000/XP/Server 2003/Vista/7/8/Linux/Mac OSX/PS5/PS4/Google Chromebook/Windows Surface Pro 3/Raspberry Pi. Please kindly note. Not compatible with PS3.
- Compact and Portable: Durable ABS material make the USB to headphone jack compact and lightweight. IMPORTANT NOTE: This usb sound card only supports mono microphone TRS, DOES NOT support TS, TRRS.
some of you asked for this, so here it is:
Raspberry Pi 3
Display: 3.5" Touchscreen
external usb sound card:
Amp: 5V - 3W stereo
Speaker: 2" 3W Full Range
Ground Loop Noise Isolator:
I will release the Code (and the 3d printing stuff) as an Open Source project after some refactoring.
thank you for the great response!
I use Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms) for competitive shooters and Sennheiser HD800 for singleplayer/immersive games.
My go-to recommendation is Sivga SV007 with V-MODA BoomPro. If you need sound isolation, then I suggest Status Audio CB-1.
If you're open to using a mic such as Antlion ModMic or Massdrop Minimic, then I have other headphone recommendations and suggestions.
If you want virtual surround sound, then you can use e.g. Astro Mixamp Pro TR, Creative Sound BlasterX G6, or Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC. I recommend SBX Pro Studio from Creative as a virtual surround sound processor; it has less compression and better positional audio than Dolby Headphone.
You attach the BoomPro mic by inserting it directly into the headphone, which replaces the original headphone cable.
The cable terminates in a single 3.5 mm connector, so you can connect it directly to the controller or any other device with a headset jack. If you connect it to a regular headphone jack, then the mic won't work. No mics will. If the device has separate headphone and mic ports, then you need to use a TRRS Y-splitter, which is included with the BoomPro.
To connect the headset to the USB port on PS4, you can use an audio USB adapter.
At approximately the same volume, I heard no difference between these and the controller. I heard no hiss, hum, crackling, or other noise. The difference in the mic quality was negligible.
SV007 a well-balanced sound profile. The mid-bass, which is where boom and punch come from, is a little bit boosted. The sub-bass, which is how deep the bass goes and is where rumble comes from, is a little bit reduced. The overall bass is clean. The treble is close to neutral. It's clean, smooth, and crisp. The midrange is clear, not tinny or muffled. The overall clarity is great.
It has a large soundstage, very good imaging and separation, and good to very good detail retrieval for competitive shooters. I assess headphones mainly in Battlefield: Bad Company 2, a multiplayer game I've played for over 3000 hours and I thrive at relying on sound cues.
Soundstage is perceived space and environment of sound. It's width, depth, and height. I mean the type of soundstage that the headphone produces. Many games have a narrow, shallow, and short soundstage. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds more spatial and expansive. Imaging is inherent to the audio content. It's how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced. Soundstage and imaging constitute positional audio, and you could say they are the stereo equivalent of virtual surround sound. Before you make any stances on virtual surround sound, I recommend that you read this post I wrote. Separation is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. You don't need to be concerned with this if you play competitively.
You can actually judge for yourself by listening to recordings on YouTube.
I prefer to watch Podcastage for mic reviews.
Build, ergonomics, & features
SV007 has an open design (as you can see with the grilles on the earcups), so sound passes freely in and out, unlike closed headphones which attenuate sound from passing through. The benefits of an open design are generally a larger soundstage and better imaging. If your ears tend to heat up, it may help mitigate this as it allows more airflow and heat to dissipate.
The build is sturdy and lightweight, featuring metal yokes, hinges, and headband. It has no flimsy or squeaky parts. The cups are made of wood. They tilt and swivel and can lie flat. I have average sized ears and the earpads fit around them and don't press them against the inside of the cups. The pads are plush and have a smooth and relatively high-quality protein leather. The headband has decent padding, but the headphone has great weight distribution so it doesn't exert pressure on top of my head and doesn't cause hotspots. Adjusting the headband is smooth and easy and it stays firmly in place. The clamping force is mild and isn't too loose or too tight for my average sized head. The build quality is excellent with a near immaculate finish all around.
BoomPro has a flexible aluminum neck and a tangle-free, braided cable that's free of microphonics. The game volume and mic mute controls are easy to adjust and don't accidentally adjust themselves when rubbing against your clothes. Adjusting them is smooth and consistent, not scratchy, sluggish, or sticky. The mic is as non-obtrusive as a boom mic can be and is almost unnoticeable in my peripheral vision.
^Formatted ^in ^Reddit ^Enhancement ^Suite.
You can use a USB to Audio adapter, and use any 3.5mm headphones. Like these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N905VOY
Personally use a wireless headset and love it https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Flight-Detachable-Comfortable/dp/B077ZGRY9V
I don't know of any type of cable as what you are explaining. It looks to me you just need a USB extender.
Otherwise unlikely, but there is this type of adapter. I haven't had issues with power personally.
Your least expensive option is something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N905VOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495292448&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+to+3.5mm+jack+audio+adapter&amp;psc=1
Yep but you're probably cheaper off buying a cheap usb sound card for like 5-10€
Edit: the purpose of the sound card is to just sort out the interference coming from the PC and send a clean signal to the device. This doesn't require a 400€ AMP or a DAC.
Sort of just smoothing out the "bumps".
Something like this can do the job.
Audio processing inside a power hungry computer is like holding a concert on an F1 track while a race is happening next to you.
I use this and it works really well! I have the same set up as you!
And yes I’m on 5.0.0
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | $159.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - B450-A PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard | $59.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Team - Vulcan 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $39.49 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $58.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI - Radeon RX 580 8 GB ARMOR OC Video Card | $204.89 @ OutletPC
Case | Cougar - MX330 ATX Mid Tower Case | $46.98 @ B&H
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC51 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $29.89 @ OutletPC
Keyboard | Razer - Blackwidow Tournament Edition Wired Gaming Keyboard | $58.90 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $848.90
| Mail-in rebates | -$60.00
| Total | $788.90
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-21 00:15 EST-0500 |
Here is the monitor I recommend:
Here is the mousepad I recommend:
So this should all be plenty for his intentions.
AMD’s Ryzen lineup has more cores than intel and tends to be a much better “bang for the buck”
8GB of high speed ram
Instead of a GTX 1060 or 1070, I went with an RX580 to save money. It has very equivalent performance as the 1060, and even better in some areas.
I added a WiFi card to allow for wireless connectivity, which isn’t necessary if you plan to wire your connection.
A nice CherryMX Switch keyboard.
A 2TB Hard Drive for games and a 240GB SSD for Windows. (Allows for faster boot times and a smoother experience overall.)
A good looking case that has a glass side panel on one end.
And a 75hz monitor that is a steal at the moment. I actually have one of these myself and it is amazing for its price, I’m very satisfied. Only downside is it doesn’t ship with an HDMI cable, only VGA so make sure you have a spare.
And of course a large mousepad, not necessary but helps.
If your son plans on using a mic, he needs a USB splitter which is super cheap and you can get off of Amazon for ~$10.
This build should get the job done for your son;)
I know it’s a little out of budget, but the extra money is worth it.
Edit: I also recommend purchasing another case fan for $5-10 as this only comes with 1 preinstalled.
If it's a 3.5mm mic, you will need a USB soundcard (like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N905VOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
Plug that in, plug the mic into that and it will work (or so I've read, I'm actually trying this out tonight when I get home from work, so I'll post back in a few hours the results)
If you have the Tonor USB mic, I believe that'll be strict plug and play.
Alright guys here goes!
First of all I'm using a Intel Movidius neural compute stick to accelerate the raspberry pi's ability to read the graph of a pre-trained MobilenetSSD. I'll move on to training with my own data shortly - https://software.intel.com/en-us/movidius-ncs
This is a great tutorial regarding getting started with the Movidius . I made a few modifications so the presence of an object would halt or trigger a function or method - https://www.pyimagesearch.com/2018/02/19/real-time-object-detection-on-the-raspberry-pi-with-the-movidius-ncs/
This all requires a raspberry pi camera board v2 and an extra long ribbon to allow for head movement -
As for the head it's a Lynxmotion pan and tilt kit, I bought the servos separately -https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/lynxmotion-pan-and-tilt-kit-aluminium2.html?gclid=Cj0K
I use the Pigpio library for the servos. Which works with a surprisingly low amount of jitter considering - https://github.com/joan2937/pigpio
I also created my own custom functions in conjunction with the pigpio library in order to add delays to the servo rotation whenever I need, giving me the ability to animate his movement further.
I'm struggling to reliably stabilise his ultrasonic range sensor so I'm thinking of moving on to lidar once I get back to the UK but you can grab a cheap HC-SR04 sensor for ~$5 easily -https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/hc-sr04-ultra01-ultrasonic-range-finder.html
I use the Adafruit motor hat, specifically designed for the Raspberry pi - https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-Motor-HAT-Python-Library.
The hat works in conjunction with some pretty hefty 12v DC geared motor, although I don't remember their RPM. Either way they allow for some pretty granular movement that gives the anthropomorphic vibe I was looking for!
As i mentioned below too the treads are Lynxmotion and the chassis is Lynxmotion and part debris form the prototype build. the lynxmotion chassis is great because it has a bunch of space to house two battery packs and excess wire. One pack for the track motors and one pack for the servos -
Throw in a bunch of 1/2 size perma-proto boards from Adafruit, some custom circuitry, a max98306 stereo amplifier, a powerboost 1000c, a 5v lipo, a Ugreen USB sound card, 2 8 ohm 0.5w speakers, some hacked up acrylic housing from an old Arduino Uno, and you have a surprisingly powerful sound system -
To play sound within the program itself I just use the os library and aplay.
For speech synthesis I use a Marytts local text to speech server - https://github.com/marytts/marytts.
Add to that some simple use of the Python format method, a library of random phrases I'm slowly building and you have a talking robot.
Oh hey and it's worth mentioning that the raspberry pi itself is powered by a simple portable charging bank and that power to the tracks, head, raspberry pi and sound are all on separate circuits with switches for the sake of debugging.
In terms of how the recognition affects movement. I have a detection method running in one thread. If an object is present according to the pre-trained model it assigns the object class to a global attribute. In the main thread I have his movement methods running - that can literally do anything so long as the object/objects isn't present - otherwise the method triggers a return statement and he moves on to the next function in the main program etc.
Now I have all of this up and running I'm hoping to have him follow the object he's been assigned to find! Hopefully I'll have a video of that up soon :D
Yes, it's worth trying as it will likely solve your problem. I've got a "UGreen" USB audio dongle. It works surprisingly well. Sounds fine.
As long as it fits, it should work. You have to keep in mind that the USB ports on the PS4 are recessed. Something with a cable would be a safer bet.
Your laptop might not support a microphone. Traditional 3.5mm jacks have 3 connectors, left speaker, right speaker and ground. Headset jacks have 4, left speaker, right speaker, microphone and ground. If your laptop can only read the 2 speakers and ground, it literally doesn't have the hardware capability to read microphone signals.
I'd get a USB 3.5mm jack card.
Hi hi hi friends,
I bought my Sennheiser HD 598 CS's during black friday and I cant help but feel like I'm not getting the most out of them. Right now I have them connected, along with a ModMic, to my mobo with this.
I had my eyes set on these;
So, my question is, should I get either of these DACs or is it not really worth the price I'm intending to pay? If I should buy a DAC which one of these should I get? Or is there a better one around this price point?
Thanks for any help!
something like this - basically you plug it in to a USB port and then plug your headphones into it. the important part is that it doesn't use the realtek audio driver, which I suspect has issues with Frostbite engine (for some reason)
You can do something like this with a mixer. The questions mainly comes down to: What is it worth to you? Do you use an external DAC/AMP?
If you do use an external DAC/AMP: This will work and will be slightly cheaper.
IF you do not use an external DAC/AMP: This will need extra equipment: Your choice between a DAC/AMP or a USB Sound Card.
Mixer $40 - The mixer is what you will use to control volume of the 2 channels. You can also use it for a microphone if you choose to get one down the road!
Cables x2 $20 - These are for the Output of your computer.
Cable x1 $7 - This cable is for the Output of the mixer.
USB Soundcard $8 - This is OPTIONAL. You only need it if you don't have a DAC/AMP. However it would be a nice addition if you don't want to run a cable to the front of your PC.
Whether OP should go for a USB adapter or an adapter cable depends mostly on the quality of the laptop's DAC. Cheap USB adapters have pretty bad quality and are about the same price as a cable. If the laptop is only a few years old, then the on-board audio is probably better than a cheap USB adapter, so a cable would be better.
Link to an example of the type of cable OP is looking for: https://www.amazon.com/Headsets-Splitter-Separate-Headphone-Nintendo/dp/B07FB8LCQ7/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=4+pole+adapter&amp;qid=1563189665&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=4+pole+ad&amp;sr=8-6
Link to a USB adapter:
Well a on board sound card can create static noise and other issues which might be helped by something like this:
Shamis has on possible solution. Output your PC Mic to the PS4 via 3.5mm to USB adaptor. PS recognize these. I have this one, works perfectly. Or you can use two mic, one to your PC, the other to the adaptor.
Another option is the Astro MixAmp. You can output your mic (or all audio) via the stream port on the MixAmp to your computer. In OBS, setup mic/aux and point it to the astro line in. If your serious about streaming, this is probably the easiest/cheapest way of doing this.
I've played with mic splitters, but they tend to cause unwanted feedback/noise.
I'm not an audiophile or anything. It outputs to a mono amp for an arcade cabinet. The reg headphone jack had some hiss and so did converting hdmi to vga / headphone. This works great for me and was cheap.
If it's Realtek see of they have an updated driver on their website. Laptop speakers are pretty bad. They also make sound adapters for laptops that might give you better quality. If you want to spend some money look into a nice DAC.
mmm, I ordered this
Well this one is cheaper than most Ground Loop Isolators.
The mix amp is cool because it can control chat and game volume separately but it's very overpriced. A simple little USB audio adapter should be fine for this purpose.
Then you can upgrade the dac/amp part later if you want better audio quality but keep this little adapter for the mic part of your headset.
I suggest this Baby Boom Speaker. You’ll need a sound card because the jack on the pi is terrible. I use this external one and it works great.
No, there are a number of basic DACs like that, that will remove the electrical issues in PCs. If that's all someone is after there's no need to pay more.
I'm wondering if the link was meant to be this, though:
Given your headphones maybe you'd want more, though. It may depend on whether your current amp is working for your headphones. The head-fi forums would be a place to read and maybe ask for something that is a match for yours.
No it wont, thats set up for a power cable.
Look at these, UGREEN USB Sound Card External Converter USB Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Aux Stereo for Headset, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4, Windows, Mac, and Linux White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ijjdBbAJ6X2E5
Or, UGREEN USB Audio Adapter External Stereo Sound Card With 3.5mm Headphone And Microphone Jack For Windows, Mac, Linux, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4 (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MjjdBb1M8X5K2
You dont really need the second one but i believe those are normally cheaper
No idea how you'd get audio to a Google Cast endpoint - that protocol is still a black box as far as I know.
If all you want to do is distribute the audio from the vinyl player, then just capture it and replay it over Snapcast or Icecast or MPD or literally hundreds of other services that play an audio stream.
For capturing from the vinyl player unless you have a heavyweight system alongside, you could get a small embedded box (like an RPi) and a cheap USB soundcard or try to go digital with either an HDMI audio extractor or (much rarer) audio interface with TOSlink input like this DIGIFLEX External Sound Card USB 6 Channel 5.1 Audio one.
On the RPi side you'd pick the audio off the sound card with something like
cpiped(linked above) which will buffer the audio for you and then pipe that to snapserver or forked-daapd or icecast or whatever.
(If you don't need synchronized audio then it's even simpler since an awful lot of networked TVs and amplifiers can be instructed to play an audio stream URL.)
I don't have a real fix unfortunately but just wanted to say if it comes to it, decent enough USB sound cards like this one will sound just as good as your old onboard audio if you need it (It is under $10)
Without knowing whats causing it, its almost impossible to tell.
If its damaged somehow, then replacing or repairing is the only thing you can do.
Or perhaps get a simple USB -> 3.5mm audiocard.
Something like that.
If the problem occurs on every headphone or headset you plug in to the machine, its most likely a damaged 3.5mm jack. What the damage is, well only you can see that, since none of us can see your machine from here.
Of course, this assumes its not caused by some kind of software issue and is in fact a physical issue with the jack itself.
> I honestly don't mind playing them on the LCD
Yeah, a lot of people here do seem to mind (though getting "raged and flamed to hell" isn't usually something that happens in this sub), but I'm right there with ya. I've actually got 8 different systems (both old and new) hooked up to a nice LCD computer monitor I was given for Christmas (specifically a Dell UltraSharp 2405FPW, along with the optional soundbar), and it does a wonderful job IMHO, despite being over a decade old (these things came out around 2005 or so, I think). I just wish my Sega Genesis still worked (video output died somehow, so I'm using one of those crappy FireCore things for now), and I need to get a composite cable for my SNES... :/
Anyways, this UltraSharp is a 16:10 monitor (1920x1200), so it's decent for both widescreen and standard systems; the 16:9 systems have about an inch of letterboxing on top and bottom while the 4:3 systems similarly only have about an inch of pillarboxing on the left and right. It also can pivot into a portrait view, which is interesting. Haven't used that yet, but it might be cool for certain arcade SHMUPs (my Wii is hacked, so I can run some of those in an emulator)...
It also has a ton of different inputs, though it's missing HDMI. Luckily, HDMI and DVI use the same digital video format, so I just use a straight HDMI-to-DVI cable for my PS4 (and a USB audio adapter for plugging in the soundbar, so I don't have to worry about splitting out and converting the HDMI's digital audio to analog). Unfortunately, though, this particular monitor does not have HDCP support, so the media apps (YouTube, CrunchyRoll, etc) and the BluRay playback won't work on the PS4. I may get one of these things to bypass HDCP eventually...
All that said, my setup isn't nearly as organized as yours (shown here using the monitor's "picture-beside-picture" mode, playing PSO in my Wii on the right while studying this chart in the PS4's internet browser on the left. Apologies for potato-quality camera, lol). Part of that is due to space constraints, though -- I live with my sister, and keep my game systems in my bedroom so she can watch TV in the living room while I'm gaming... :P
This should do the trick:
Are these compatible?
My work requires a USB headset connection so I would have to go with this adapter. If it does work, would it alter the sound quality at all?
Add mono or stereo connectors to the CT39 cable ends, dress them up nice.
Then, get one of these:
And, then rock and roll with your 2 USB cable connection to get up and running.
It is possible you are still having a motherboard problem (yes, they do have spontaneous failure)
Are your headphones and MIC analog (3.5mm jacks)?
If so, you can get cheap usb sound card to test on your PC ($9):
I'm not actually sure which z390/B365 board has the best audio from all the brands. Alternatively You can just spend like $7 and get an external USB sound card like this one. Was far better than the sound card that was in my $130 motherboard. But the biggest difference is the microphone quality improvement. I actually have this one. If you feel the difference depends on the headset. I have a $90 pair of Sennheisers, which are more made for music. Most gaming headsets on the on the other hand have pretty bad audio in comparison and you might not be able to tell.
As for memory, you can still use 3200mhz, but I think it will just run at 2666mhz anyways if you get a b365 motherboard. If you care about the RGB then TEAM has some good ones too. They might be better performance wise too (maybe lower timings), but it's hard to know without knowing what memory timings yours would go to if you stuck them into a b365. That's another topic altogether. There is memory speed, and memory timings linked to it.
Nope, I didn't almost used this jacks since most of my headsets were usb, but happening with two totally new different headsets... I'm suspicious about it
I'm between this three but don't know if any of those can make any sound quiality loss (Don't know why I can't just change the other two links)
It shows as controller audio on the PS4. I think it is 2 separate devices.
This is the soundcard: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01N905VOY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I just used a simple 4port USB 2.0 hub I already had.
The good thing is that other players with a DS4 can use their audioport of the DS4. They work simultaneous.
Most laptops only have a headphone output jack, so you'll need an input jack, and you can buy external USB soundcard with an input on it.
Then you need to find out if that input jack can be set to line level or mic level. Sometimes you can switch between the two.
The mixer will be sending line level out. If you can set the laptop to line level in, then you are all good, all you need is a cable that has an XLR on one end, and a mini 3.5mm jack on the other end. You might have to use an XLR to 1/4" jack cable and then use an adapter to change the 1/4" jack down to a 3.5mm mini. (Or XLR to XLR cable with an adapter on the end to change it to 3.5mm mini)
If the laptop will only accept Mic level, then you need the same sort of setup, but you'll run it through a Direct Box which is a transformer that can switch line level signals to mic level signals.
Hopefully you can go down and take a look at everything before the day of the event. Take good notes and pictures of what is down there. Then make yourself a checklist so you don't forget anything on the day of the event.
If I understand this correctly, you essentially want to be able to play a sound from your PC so that people on the PS4 will be able to hear it directly. Correct?
The only way you will be able to do this over USB is with a USB sound card for the PS4... and even then you'll still need to use 3.5mm cables.
Whenever you play audio from your PC, it will transmit it as mic audio to your PS4.
TLDR: Need better audio to record from PC to high-end tape deck, and from high-end tape deck to PC. Would be nice to use as headphone amp, but not required. C-Media based external sound "card", Fulla 2, or Modi 2 - and why?
I was using my internal sound card to record to a high end tape deck and I could hear the electrical noise from the video card and CPU (audible buzz when CPU and GPU utilization is 50% or higher). So now I'm looking for an external DAC or sound card.
Seeing how a cheap USB "Sound Card" such as the $10 uGreen (https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY) is just an external DAC, makes me wonder would that serve it's purpose? Or is the C-Media HS-100B not all that good?
A huge step in the audio spectrum is the Fulla 2 vs the Modi 2. Lets say the C-Media is crap, so I'm looking between these two Shiit products. For my purpose, I can probably go for either, right? Both at $99, using the PC as the source (and sometimes the recording destination), either would work, right?
I was thinking Fulla 2 would fit my needs better because at the same price, it has a built-in amp for the times I want to use it as a portable external DAC/Amp, which I can't do with the Modi 2. The Modi 2 would just be a dedicated DAC with a line-level out, where the Fulla 2 can serve as a line-level out, line-level in, AND will serve as a decent headphone amp for those occasional listening sessions.
I plan on gaming on my Logitech G930, so the DAC will only be for audio recording (both line out and line in, to and from a tape deck).
The tape deck, if you're curious, is a JVC TD-V661 3-head dual capstan deck from 1993.
EDIT: I just realized the Fulla 2 line-in is just to use it as a dedicated analog amp and NOT as a line-in for PC recording. Oh well. Still seems like a better value compared to the Modi 2. Again, would like to know if I'm missing anything (why go for the Modi 2 over the Fulla 2?)
Might be a ground loop issue which creates static noise in your headphones
A USB sound card might help to isolate the headphones from interference which might fix the problem
Try something like this:
You can plug it into the PS4 then use a 3.5mm male to male cable to connect from the dongle to your input on your PC. This will send both game and party chat to the PC.
Then to complicate the setup (LOL) download Voicemeeter Banana. You will be able to combine your PC sound sources to a virtual output that OBS can listen in on. As well VMB can output your Microphone to your Aux out which you can once again fire a 3.5mm cable from PC to the PS4 dongle and double your PC mic on both your PC and PS4!
Here's a fairly cheap one. Not a recommendation, but this is what you're looking for: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_4
I'm asking about the software because not every program can record from multiple sources at once. You'll need something like Audacity
you can pipe audio through network wire with baluns. if you've got a PC with multiple audio cards, or usb audio cards you can play multiple sources simultaneously and direct that audio to your different rooms.
only trick is that for the baluns to work you need to plug them directly into the cables, they can't route through a switch (ok, they make ones that can go through a switch, but they're $$$) so you'd need your computer to be wherever your switch is.
so now you've got one computer that can play audio to whichever network ports in your house you want, you just need speakers. obviously, this will only be an audio signal, so you'll need powered speakers or an amplifier with passive speakers. a cheap solution for your speakers would be to grab a few sets of powered computer speakers at goodwill.
you would control your source / volume by remoting (RDP or VNC or whatever) into the PC you have set up with all the sound cards.
The jack to USB adapter i bought is supposed to work as an external sound card according to the amazon page (i don't know much about that kind of hardware) : https://www.amazon.fr/UGREEN-Adaptateur-Raspberry-Enceinte-Microphone/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541440010&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=jack+usb
Should this work if it was the problem?
So this UGREEN soundcard won't reduce quality compared to my Asus z270e motherboard?
I guess that usb is doing nothing with sound. IMO, you got three choices.
Thank you, that was my first option, to get one of those usb sound cards. Something like this looks decent and is cheap.
Yes, I RMA’d my board and replaced it with another Gaming 7 and same exact issue. I’m not entirely sure we have the same issue though. Mine is totally microphone related. My headphones work fine (ie no popping/cracking). But just randomly, my microphone makes crazy insane alien noises. I cannot hear the noises, but everyone else can.
Yes, the headsets I’m wearing are 3.5mm. My headphones are Philips - SHP9500, and a V-MODA Boompro gaming mic. But I also had the same issues just using my Apple headphones. I have not tried a usb headset yet, but I did order this, which arrived today, so I’ll give you an update if I play later.
To add an update to my post, I don’t think the issue only happens with PUBG anymore.
Aux cable from this to PC line in. Enable 'listen to this device' plug headset into PC.
This complicates the mic situation.
Personally, I would use this device with an external mixer and a multi channel audio recorder instead. The downside is you will need an analog headset.
I can’t attest to the quality of this thing but they are usually usb.
If nothing else a cheap usb soundcard would work like this https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+sound+card&qid=1566844606&s=gateway&sr=8-5
I was looking at a similar item earlier: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_gHj4AbXH481E2
I wonder if I'll have any issues threading that cable through the opening where the headstrap starts or if I'll need to fork up the extra $10 for the official Vive USB extension cable. https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-USB-Extension-Cable-pc/dp/B01LZ23EDX
They make very inexpensive usb sound cards. People primarily used to use them to make analog headsets operate on a different audio channel than their normal speakers. You could try buying one for like $8 and plugging your speakers through it, while leaving the onboard sound disabled, then starting up the game afterwards.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY/