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Reddit mentions of WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm, Up to 560 MB/s - WDS100T2B0A
Sentiment score: 29
Reddit mentions: 61
We found 61 Reddit mentions of WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm, Up to 560 MB/s - WDS100T2B0A. Here are the top ones.
Buying optionsView on Amazon.com
- An industry leading 1.75M hours mean time to failure (MTTF) (1) and up to 600 terabytes written (TBW) (2) for enhanced reliability. | (1) MTTF = Mean Time To Failure based on internal testing using Telcordia stress part testing. (2) TBW (terabytes written) values calculated using JEDEC client workload (JESD219) and vary by product capacity
- WD F.I.T. Lab certification for compatibility with a wide range of computers.
- Free downloadable software to monitor the status of your drive and clone a drive, or backup your data
- An active power draw up to 25% lower than previous generations of WD Blue SSD.
|Number of items||1|
|Release date||April 2019|
There's actually some good stuff in the mix:
So starting from the ground up.
APC PDUs into two seperate circuits.
The cisco switch is the only device without redundant power. But again, it's only running IPMI which I can't make redudant anyway.
The 4 servers, 2 switches, and qnap are both each plugged into both PDUs.
I set up both Nutanix Clusters (3 node, 1 node). All the VMS on my 3 node are snapshotted and replicated to the 1 node cluster daily for 30 days and monthly for 72 months. Nutanix does not offer a way to export their VMS. No 3-2-1 rule for them.
I shut down a test VM on 3 node cluster and switched to the other 1 node cluster I was doing their data protection on. Hit restore and the vm came right back up on this 1 node cluster. pretty happy with that.
The VMS themselves back up their data daily to the QNAP using emcopy.exe. Qnap has backup software, I just haven't had time to get into it.
These clusters have been up and running for about 2 months. I finally copied all of the old data off the old servers and got them unplugged last night. That was a great feeling.
I am currently running 25 VMs (+3 controller vms). personal, friends, media, mysql, mssql, nginx, mongo, redis, domain controllers, dns, etc all adds up pretty quick. I am a developer by trade, so I have a lot of expermination and code all over the place.
Once pleasant suprise is that since most of my VMs are a clone and I am running the data dedupe, I am getting ~20:1 effeciency. I am only using around 2.5% of my logical data storage.
I refuse to do the exact math, but I am well over $8k into this.
So lets go back to my goals
no single point of failure.
Any cable can pulled and nothing turns off.
If any piece of hardware fails, all my vms continue running.
Nutanix has some voodoo. The VMs disk benchmark is faster than my NVME desktop.
Network copying gets 600mbps+ tends to slow down on transfers of serveral gbs. Needs to investigate more.
some sorta backup.
doing snap shots to secondary cluster.
nutanix allows file level restore from previous snapshots.
data copied to nas daily.
would like actual file level back up to nas eventually.
Since someone will ask. I am running between 4-5 amps on each APC.
Problems I have encountered:
Nutanix does not show the network cards in their web interface. They show up fine in the CLI?
2 Ram sticks were returning ECC errors. Used servers, this is a risk. Monitor your IMPI people!
Watchguard does not technically support Nutanix. So the manager shows a lot of warnings. Support said they are just warnings.
I somehow crashed a nutanix install on the satadom. Was able to get it re installed relatively quickly. requires a live cd to image the disk. I bought a 5th satadom to just have on hand.
No way to monitor the disk SMART info from nutanix that I have found yet.
2x QUANTA LB6M 24-PORT 10GBE SFP+
4x SUPERMICRO 1U X9DRI-LN4F+ SERVER
Dual E5-2650 V2, 128gb Ram (8x16gb)
4x Intel X520-DA2 10Gbps SFP+
8x WD Blue 1tb SSD
4x 16gb SATADOM
6x WD RE 2tb spinny drives (Nutanix 3 node cluster) (pulled from last lab)
2x WD RE 4tb spinny drives (Nutanix 1 node cluster) (pulled from last lab)
4x WD 6tb Red Pro
You should get an SSD. 512GB, or better yet, 1TB. They've really fallen in price. Amazon has the WD Blue SSD for $115 and that's what I have. I'm crying (not literally, LOL) because I paid $300 for that. And it's amazing. I don't regret it. I mean, I know you're being facetious about 20 minutes to launch an app store, but with an SSD, you can go from your computer having been off a week, to you reading Reddit, in like six seconds flat. I'm not kidding. It's stupid fast. Your computer is probably faster than you think. The bottleneck is your hard drive. Replace it with an SSD, and let the app stores start when the computer does.
There are apps that combine all your games into one place, kind of like what Steam does, but for all the app stores, plus emulators. The main one I know of is called LaunchBox. Personally I think it's a giant pain in the knob, but I respect the hustle. I mean, I'm lazy. If I want to play a game, I just launch it from the start menu. If you launch the game, it'll launch any dependencies in the background, and that's that. It's never been an issue. LaunchBox is free, by the way, with a $20 pro version that does some cool shit. And the author sounds like a great guy. If you like what you see, definitely try it out. Maybe the all-in-one launcher thing is for you. I'm old school. Same with music... I don't do music libraries, I just play the songs out of my file manager. Old school. It's worked for ~20 years, why change it?
Estimated Total $1736 +tax and shipping
There're a few areas you could scrimp to get to $1500. This is basically my build, but I went with 4 nodes, a bigger switch, and a cheap 4 pack of longer cables (10gtek's 4 packs have a decent discount). If the price of the Intel 660p has your attention for multiple capacity drives, I suggest an x470 or x570 mobo that can do x4x4x4x4 bifurcation on the x16 slot and then use a quad m.2 board without a PCIe switch for them (ones from ASUS and ASrock are ~$100 which can negate any cost savings). There are boards with a PCIe switch that will work with the above board, but they're very expensive.
If you get a MikroTik switch, use RouterOS because SwOS apparently has bugs beyond what I experienced. If you get one of their PoE switches, be careful with non-PoE devices. Mine was working fine, but I triggered a bug in SwOS and it toasted some gear; I need to have a conversation with MikroTik and the seller to see what can be done about what got toasted.
Even with an SSD, it still takes way too long.
Having said that, I highly recommend getting an SSD. One of the best component upgrades you can make. I can't imagine ever going back to an HDD. They're dirt cheap nowadays too ($110 for 1TB).
2.5” is the same price.
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - WDS100T2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GMq3BbK1ZX6CD
Not him, but any 2.5in SATA drive should work. Here's some examples:
SanDisk SSD PLUS 1TB Internal SSD - $100
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB Internal PC SSD - $110
Crucial MX500 1TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD - $108
Now if you wanted something with 2TB of storage, it's gonna cost you a lot more. See here:
Samsung 860 QVO 2TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD - $227
WD Blue 3D NAND 2TB Internal PC SSD - $225
SanDisk Ultra 3D NAND 2TB Internal SSD - $210
They're all over Amazon.
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB - $168
Crucial MX500 1TB - $160
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB - $150
SanDisk 1TB Ultra - $160
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
First things first- a Solid State Drive(From now on referred to as SSD) is a storage device with relatively high speeds and lower potential storage capacity for the price, compared to a Hard Disc Drive(Now on referred to as HDD).
You’re generally not going to need an SSD for most games, as the speed of storage isn’t really dependant on your storage. Most data used by programs is loaded into RAM, which is much faster. The only benefits are cases where you may have a game with long loading times because there’s a lot of content to load into the RAM. This is fine though, sometimes it’s nice to have those short loading times for multiplayer games. In actuality, it’s best to have an SSD for operating system storage, so instead of a computer taking a few minutes to start up, it only takes a few seconds.
There are two product types of SSD you can purchase, and two form factors (sizes) you can purchase. If you can update with which case and motherboard you have(and also any other storage that’s coming with the computer, I could have a better idea of what you have to work with, however you’re probably looking for something along the lines of SATA, 2.5” and around 500gb. This is a good option if you have one(or more) HDDs to store pictures, videos, documents, etc.
If you don’t have other storage devices, a 1tb equivalent would be preferable. Alternatively, you could purchase the 500gb SSD and some HDDs to back it up. Or even go a bit further and only purchase a 250gb SSD to hold ONLY your OS and a couple other things.
In terms of price, keep in mind that price for digital storage(SSD) has dropped significantly in the last year, and is forecasted to drop another 10% this year possibly.
TL;DR: Search “500gb SATA 2.5 SSD” online and buy anything from Samsung, Western Digital, Crucial or ADATA.
Hope this helps!
This is better, its TLC, and it has a DRAM cache too. Much better than the QVO
Spending $95 on a tiny ssd + hdd makes little sense at todays prices.
$115, Wd Blue 3d 1tb:
It's what I have as a good balance if cost/speed/size/reliability. No reason to be stuck with 2nd laggy hdd at 1tb.
SSD prices continue to drop... Black Friday could be interesting.
Team Group should be reputable but you may also want to consider the WD Blue for $179.99. You can get it on Amazon as well (Prime Only).
Edit: Just noticed the 480GB version of the Team Group SSD is $77.99:
Here's a great deal on a 750W PSU https://www.ebay.com/itm/EVGA-SuperNOVA-750-G1-80-Plus-Gold-750W-10-Year-Warranty-120-GP-0750-X1-/263997881387
Also I think this is a really good price for a 1TB SSD https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBQMCX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I was going to get two of these and put them in RAID0 instead of the WD Blue that is on sale but this one is limited to one per customer :/
WD Blue 1TB (for those curious):https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073SBQMCX
I went pretty simple. I went with a WD Blue 1TB 3D NAND.
It's reasonably priced, and you can grab a external case no problem. Now I have two external HDD. One with the games I don't mind a little bit of loading, and one for the core games I play routinely, like Destiny or Witcher 3. The best part of Xbox is being able to have not only multiple drives, but moving games from one to the other quickly and easily.
Either WD Blue or Crucial MX500
Well, if you're not doing any gaming or content creation (video/photo editing), there won't be a huge difference (at least, not after a few runs, it takes a while for it to determine what should be cached).
For reliability, I'd probably recommend an SSD, but not a TeamGroup one. Something like a Samsung or WD or Crucial would be a better option if you're concerned about reliability.
Looks like it's on sale at several stores:
Bought the wd blue 3D ssd from amazon and is working fine so far
Link for anybody who wants to know what ssd I got that is working now WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm, Up to 560 MB/s - WDS100T2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ThHRDb8DGA0PP
I suggested a more reliable motherboard because you don't want a 10 hours rendering to fail in the middle when the PC shuts down and restarts due to stability. I recommend getting an even better (and expensive) model but you're already reluctant to spend an extra cad$20 for the Aorus M.
SSD: sorry, I didn't notice it. Consider the mainstream WD Blue rather than the budget SSD PLUS.
Yes, just be careful not to get the M.2 or PCI versions. For example, this one should work on a standard SATA drive connector:
This one is an M.2. style, which would *NOT* fit your board
The model #'s are pretty similar, but you can see from the pictures that they're quite different (M.2 is a chip style, whereas the standard SATA is roughly the size of a laptop drive). Note that while standard SSH's are the size of 2.5" laptop drives, most come with a little plate or whatever to fit a full-size (3.5") bracket for desktops
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - WDS100T2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zZc7Cb3KWDY0Q
Something like this. It would be way faster loading up games hell even windows and is less prone to getting screwed up. It would be worth it.
Wanting to get a 1TB SSD for my PC. I don't have a specific budget set, but I'm trying to go for the cheapest option that doesn't make major sacrifices to quality. I had the 860 EVO recommended to me, and I had the Western Digital Blue and Crucial MX500 recommended if they are more than $5 cheaper than the EVO.
Could I get a second opinion on them? Thanks!
No problem. If you don't need SSD only, you can always get a good hybrid drive that will set you up with a couple TB of storage for a lot cheaper than a SSD. Still get a SSD to run for a boot drive at the least however.
These WD 1TB's will get the job done for a cheaper as well. Their M.2 sells for the same price.
I searched the Q&A on the Amazon product listing for this drive and a couple responses are saying it is in fact TLC.
I juuuuust ordered the drive in the link below. Other than form factor, is there any difference?
Edit: I meant to reply to the M.2 comment.
What's the best value 1TB SATA SSD?
$125 Silicon Power 1TB SSD 3D NAND A55
$128 Samsung 860 EVO 1TB
$134 WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD
I need a new SSD for games my current 500gb EVO 850 that runs my OS is full from mostly games. I know it's bad to run SSDs filled to the brim since they have less cache/space to move data around to more evenly spread out wear on the drive. So I want to move all my games over to the 1TB SSD so I can actually edit photos/videos off the 500gb C: drive. Currently photos/videos on an SSD and I'll move a working folder to the SSD when actually working on a project.
My understanding is that MLC memory is more durable than TLC memory. Is there a significant difference between the two drives? Looks like they have pretty similar read/writes in real world performance. A little confused how the Samsung has 3bit MLC that sounds like what TLC is. I know it really probably doesn't matter at all. I'm leaning towards the Samsung since it has a longer warranty and my 850 hasn't given me any problems.
That's what I got.
Someone recommended this one which on sale for $900 if a Prime member and seems to work... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTHLX8C
Looks like I can also swap in the 1TB SSD I have... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBQMCX
Is that correct?
> Typically those get used for running the OS?
These days the mSATA port is rarely used, because mSATA SSDs are less common and are generally more expensive compared to regular SATA SSDs (that are drop-in replacements for laptop hard drives). A quick Amazon.com search yields:
As you can see, a 500GB mSATA SSD costs slightly less than a 1TB 2.5" SSD, which means the cost per gigabyte is almost double. :O
One benefit of the mSATA slot is that it allows the X220 to have both an SSD (for speed) and an HDD (greater storage capacity) at the same time. My own X220 uses a 60GB mSATA SSD which is somehow able to fit both Windows 7 and Debian Linux, and a 1 TB hard drive.
would this work?
Any thoughts on this one? Seems like a good deal.
Would this be a good SSD to grab?
This is better
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Always check the prices. The savings can be Knight and day.
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MX300 is $264. There's a WD for sale for $230: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX
edit*: I might go for the $350 intel SSD or something like that with speeds around 1900mb/s
I would recommend buying a 500gb SSD then buying an HDD to store other games. You want to keep your SSD less than 70% full so that's why I like to go that route. However, if you want a 1tb SSD, any of these will work: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-SSD-PLUS-Internal-SDSSDA-1T00-G26/dp/B07D998212/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ssd+1tb&qid=1571287955&sr=8-4 , https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ssd+1tb&qid=1571287955&sr=8-3 , https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ssd+1tb&qid=1571287955&sr=8-5
Was looking into getting an internal SSD. I was hoping for a 2TB but they are quite pricey. I noticed it was actually cheaper to buy two 1TB instead. Can anyone foresee a downside to this, apart from taking up another port in my PC? As it stands right now, the 3TB HDD it'd replace is already partitioned into two 1.5TB parts.
Sorry if this is a dumb question, any notes appreciated.
EDIT: Like this WD one for example. $163 for 1TB, while all 2TB hover around $400
Western digital Blue is great for gaming.
Hey dude, Singaporean here as well! And For you I'll recommend getting a new case and Motherboard +CPU.
here is a spreadsheet that I use for people I help to build PCs for, with prices for stuff from Sim Lim (because having local warranty is good). But yeah, this is just for reference. You can always try amazon esp to save abit on older Ryzens and RAM but RMA may be a bit of a pain just so that you are aware. But for cases, the techware Nexus is pretty solid choice and I think it's only $50 SGD.
IIRC it's the same case that Aftershock uses on their more budget lineup.
In any case, If I were you, I'll either wait for the Ryzen 3000 series if I want local warranty, or if I dont mind shipping from amazon and potentially having to deal with overseas RMA, wait for Ryzen 2000 sales on amazon after the 3000 series launches. Or get the 1600 from amazon now. since the prices of those have been crazy cheap these days and TBH it wont bottleneck your RX 580 anyways.
SSD wise, how big do you want it? a 500GB WD Blue 3D is like $100SGD now, so not too different from say a 500GB 860 evo once you add in the conversion rate + Import Tax+ Shipping. But if you wait for a sale on the 1TB 860Evo, those could be quite nice, since I've seen amazon sell those for 130USD during sales, which is quite cheap considering the lower performance 860QVO is like $200SGD right now from local distributors (and the failure rate on Samsung SSDs are so low that the RMA risks are minimal). as for the 860 evo, no reason to buy one of those in SG now since for almost the same price you can get the Adata XPG SX8200 Pro but with performance matching or surpassing in some areas, the much vaulted 970 Evo.
Edit: Just saw the WD Blue 3D 1TB for $115USD on amazon.https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1LPKB9DX5EIHI&keywords=wd+blue+3d+1tb&qid=1557331485&s=gateway&sprefix=WD+Blue+3d+1tb%2Caps%2C354&sr=8-12
Okay, that means it's probably running around 16GB @ 2133Mhz which isn't bad. I'm guessing it's not single channel, are there two sticks of RAM inside of your PC?
If you're saying you'll do $200 for each upgrade, meaning a total for $400, I might actually do something like this:
WD Blue 1tb SSD ($120 Amazon)
Used/Refurb GTX 1070 ($200-$230 Ebay)
Doesn't have to be that particular 1070, they average that price on Ebay right now. Just get one with two fans as the single fan blower-style struggles in cooling performance.
This is what I was talking about.
Get the same SSD for way less on Amazon.
For the charger, go to the dell support and check under your laptop for the service code. Should be on a sticker.
Id probalby just get a usb3 enclosure(there cheap, like less than 20usd on amazon, id get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541267854&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+3+enclosure+2.5) Its a bit slower than thunderbolt, but much cheaper. You can boot from it just fine, and much faster than any hdd.
Then id get a 2.5 ssd like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541267901&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=1tb+wd+blue&amp;dpID=41nJrjRecIL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Put the ssd in the enclosure, clone the os over to the ssd(look at a program like superduper to do this), and boot from the external ssd(can select the boot device with option at bootup) and it will be much faster.
It'd be equally as fine - m.2 drives typically have higher top speeds, but not always; that one has advertised speeds comparable to that of my Samsung 850 EVO SSD (a 1TB SATA 3, 2.5" SSD).
Same brand, same size, same speeds, but it's SATA 3 and $2 cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/
which of these ssd's is better?
First and absolutely foremost: BACKUP YOUR DATA AND SAVE FILES TO A USB DRIVE OF SOME SORT. (This is mostly if you're on a PS4. Xbox I believe has some cloud save feature but please verify first you have your data backed up before doing any hardware replacement on any console.
Next, pick up a 2.5" laptop SSD. You can use up to a 2TB drive in a PS4, I don't know Xbox Ones size limitations but 2TB is a friggin lot of storage. Here's a pretty sweet deal on a 1TB on Amazon
Now, if you haven't backed up your save files yet, do so. Seriously. Don't make the same mistake I did.
Once you've got your SSD, follow these directions to replace the shitty mechanical HDD in your PS4 or Xbox with that slick solid state storage:
After you've got the SSD installed and your PS4/xbox software re-installed and updated, setup your account and restore your save files to your account.
Now kick back and enjoy the quickest load times you've ever experienced on a console.
Note: This may affect how you treat bathroom breaks while gaming.
Save your money and get an RTX 2070 in a few weeks or a regular GTX 1080. If your monitor is an AMD freesync screen then maybe give a hard look at Vega 64 too. I used to own a 1080 Ti that was sold before benchmarks for Turing came out. At 1440p144 the RTX 2080 is better in my own opinion, but at 4K it is a wash really. I know that a 1070 can push 1080p144 no problem, so if you really have budgetary concerns you don't need more than the 1080 or 2070.
edit with the savings by using a 1080 instead you can ditch your spinning rust and get a full 1TB SSD, https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/
Oh you'll definitely be able to achieve good FPS, the 1060 is still a powerful card, though for some AAA titles you may have to turn the graphics settings down in order to do so in the next couple years. A lot of people who go all out and build PC's are looking for maximum graphics settings and such, which with your budget you simply won't be able to achieve on super demanding games.
Just saw your other comment with budget raising. You're still not going to get a GREAT monitor, you'll want to dump $300-$400 on that, though that's easy to upgrade in the future. So you can go one of two paths here and now:
The one you can buy is all TLC SSD´s. From the qualtiy, I could recommend you Kingston, Samsung or WD here are some examples:
Kingston is cheap for ssds with low capacity if you want more space use the WD. Samsung is an allrounder
That’s not a sale either
If you want something slightly cheaper, have a look at this one instead. SATA is technically not as fast as NVMe, but I have machines with both, and I do not see a noticeable difference in performance between the two.
Have you considered switching to an ssd the drive you have is a very slow RPM Drive and that is most likely causing an issue check out this drive:
Also available from amazon.de :
Doubling your ssd space with this drive would only cost $20 more, and staying with 500gb would save you $25
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - WDS100T2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GokuDbBEB34GX
NZXT H500 - Compact ATX Mid-Tower Case - Tempered Glass Panel - All-Steel Construction - Enhanced Cable Management System - Water-Cooling Ready - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C3DWCDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XpkuDb17ZT1R8
Just call it a day and get a 1TB ssd for Ark. That way you can have all DLCs and a metric ton of mods downloaded without having to worry about it.
1TB for $100. Done.
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I still notice occasional pop in of textures during cutscenes or sometimes there will be low res textures on some of the characters, but I rarely if ever see the character models popping in from nowhere when walking around town.