Reddit mentions of WeMo Switch Smart Plug, Works with Alexa

For the cost of the original timer, the microcontroller, the power supply, and your time, you could've just bought something like this. Which actually has a "sunrise/sunset" option built-in, and which can be connected to an open-source home automation center if you end up getting a lot of them.

Mac Mini (2018 model), named NOSTROMO

• 3.2 GHz Hexa-Core Core i7 CPU
  
• 32 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB PCIe boot volume
  
• 2 TB external rotating drive for Time Machine Backups, connected via Thunderbolt 3 / USB-C
  
• Dual 8 TB Western Digital Elements USB 3.0 drives for content, VOL1 and VOL2. VOL1 is replicated to VOL2, both are connected via Thunderbolt 3 / USB-C. These handy adapter cables allow you to connect a traditional USB 3.0 device into a Thunderbolt 3 port.
  
• Single 4 TB SeaGate Plus USB 3.0 drive which contains the majority of my media content, VOL5. It is a "floater" drive which I always carry in my backpack to have the majority of my content with me at all times.
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Server
  
• Dual 27” Apple Thunderbolt Displays connected to the Mac Mini, daisy-chained off a single Thunderbolt 3 port using a Thunderbolt 3 to Thunderbolt 2 adapter.
  
• This Mac Mini is what I use to host all of my iTunes content to the three Apple TVs in my home
  
  
  

  Mac Mini (2010 model), named SPUNKMEYER
  

  
  

• 2.4 GHz Core 2 Duo CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 100 GB SSD boot volume
  
• 500 GB traditional drive for Time Machine Backups
  
• Running Mac OS 10.13.6 Server
  
  
  

  MacBook Pro Retina 15” (2015 model), named SULACO
  

  
  

• 2.2 GHz Quad-Core Core i7 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB SSD
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Client
  
• Time Machine Backups are being taken both on the 2018 Mac Mini as well as the 2010 Mac Mini
  
  
  

  Mac Mini (2012 model), named FERRO
  

  
  

• This Mac is located at Mom & Dad’s about 1,000 miles away. It is a complete offsite backup of all of my content, it is also used for Time Machine backups of my mother’s Mac Mini and my niece’s MacBook Pro. I have both Remote Desktop and SSH access via the magic of port forwarding. Whenever I add a new movie, I place it is my Shared Dropbox folder, then about 30 minutes later it is available on the backup Mac Mini. I then move it over to VOL3, and all of my content is always in sync.
  
• 2.5 GHz Dual-Core Core i5 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 120 GB SSD boot volume
  
• 500 GB traditional drive for Time Machine Backups
  
• Single 8 TB Western Digital Elements USB 3.0 drive for storing and hosting content, VOL3. It is a complete duplicate of VOL1/VOL2.
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Server
  
  
  

  Mac Mini (2012 model), named AURIGA
  

  
  

• This Mac is located at my sister's house about 1,000 miles away. It is a complete offsite backup of all of my movies and TV shows, it is also used for Time Machine backups of my sister's MacBook Pro and my other niece’s MacBook. I have both Remote Desktop and SSH access via the magic of port forwarding. Whenever I add a new movie, I place it is my Shared Dropbox folder, then about 30 minutes later it is available on the backup Mac Mini. I then move it over to VOL4, and all of my content is always in sync.
  
• 2.5 GHz Dual-Core Core i5 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB SSD boot volume
  
• 500 GB traditional drive for Time Machine Backups
  
• Single 4 TB Seagate Backup Plus USB 3.0 drive (VOL4) for storing and hosting content, VOL4. As it is only a 4 TB volumes, it contains only the moves and television shows which are on VOL1, VOL2, and VOL3.
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Server
  
  
  Both the 2012 Minis and the 2010 Mini are completely headless. Unfortunately, this means that accessing them via remote desktop gives you a measly 800x600 resolution. I use this handy little gadget on both of them to replicate a 1920x1080 display being connected. So, when I connect via Screen Sharing I get a nice big display.
  
  
  

  MacBook Pro (2018 model), named APLC02XV5W1JGH5
  

  
  

• 2.2 GHz Six-Core Intel Core i7 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 500 GB SSD
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.5 Client
  
• This is my work-provided laptop, mostly used for remote access. It is pretty locked down, I am not a local administrator so I cannot even rename it to fit my naming scheme
  
  
  

  iPad Pro 10.5", named APONE
  

  
  

• 2.38 GHz Apple A10X CPU
  
• 4 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB of storage
  
• Running iOS 13.0 Public Beta
  
  
  

  iPhone X, named RIPLEY
  

  
  

• 2.4 GHz Apple A11 Bionic CPU
  
• 3 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB of storage
  
• Running iOS 12.4
  
  
  LG Blu-Ray reader/writer in connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0, used for ripping Blu-Rays and DVDs
  
  Sabrent USB 3.0 Dual-Bay Hard Drive Dock, also connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0
  
  The microphone is a Yeti Blue with a Nady Pop Filter, coupled with a Logitech HD C310, used for Google Hangouts and FaceTime calls with the fam, and the occasional podcast. It is mounted on a RODE PSA1 Swivel Mount Studio Microphone Boom Arm and a RADIUS II Microphone Shock Mount.
  
  The mousepad is an XTracPads Ripper XXL mousepad
  
  The chair is a Raynor Ergohuman ME7ERG desk chair
  
  I use Dropbox to expertly keep my content in sync. Due to the amount of content I keep in there, it is well worth the $100 per year for a Dropbox Pro subscription.
  
  
  Additionally throughout the house, I have...
  3 Eeros for my Mesh Wireless Network WiFi System
  2 Apple TVs (4K), named ASH and CALL
  1 Apple TV (4th Generation), named BISHOP
  1 Apple HomePod, named DIETRICH
  1 Nest Hello Video Doorbell, named HELLO
  1 Nest Learning Thermostat, named NEST (yeah, original af, I know)
  2 WyzeCam Pans, named WYZE-Kitchen and WYZE-LivingRoom
  4 WeMo Smart Plugs, named WEMO-Foyer, WEMO-SpareBedroom, WEMO-MasterBedroom, and WEMO-LivingRoom
  1 Amazon Echo Plus, named ECHO-LivingRoom
  2 Amazon Echoes (First-Generation), named ECHO-MasterBedroom and ECHO-Kitchen
  2 Amazon Echo Dots, named DOT-Office, and DOT-SpareBedroom
  4 Google Home Minis
  1 Brother HL-L2395DW Wireless Laser Printer, named LV426
  1 PlayStation 3 Slim 120 GB, named HICKS
  
  I have a total of 31 IP reservations according to my Eero app. This makes it a lot easier to manage my network, set up port forwarding, etc.

Something like http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB2MMNE

Works now.

Plug your kettle into a smart outlet.

"Alexa: Turn on Kettle."

People right now are using smart outlets such as the TP-Link Smart Plug or the WeMo Switch Smart Plug to control lamps, electric fans, Christmas trees, aquariums, etc.

If you can set up predefined text messages, you could probably hook it up to http://ifttt.com for more fun.

e.g send a text from your smart watch to turn on a light or a space heater using a wemo switch.

http://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Electronics-Anywhere-Automation-Smartphones/dp/B00BB2MMNE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419523637&sr=8-1&keywords=wemo

What you just described its the Belkin WeMo plug.

Only one plug, but everything else you mentioned. There's probably ways to directly access it, but it does work with IFTTT and Tasker (and a mediocre Belkin app).

Let's address the issue about not leaving things cooking when we're not home. I have the same fear and the crock I have doesn't experience what you are describing. That said, there are ways to give yourself a piece of mind.

1. Put it on one of these so that you can start it but not let it burn the house down. Heck, add one of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-WeMo-NetCam-Infrared-Cut-off/dp/B00KNM763E/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&srs=8136516011&ie=UTF8&qid=1416053912&sr=1-3&keywords=wemo) for belt and suspenders. Now you can start it remotely AND watch it cooking without fear. yes, I have the camera (not for this reason but to watch the front door for packages.) I also love my Wemo's.
   
2. I have a large granite countertop. I put mine in the middle with nothing around it. if it were to catch fire there's nothing to burn.
   
3. If you can't do that you can put it in your sink. Again, if something happened there's nothing to burn there. You could even put it in your oven. Again if it did catch on fire the oven would contain it.
   
4. Get one that doesn't give you the creeps like this one.
   
5. Use it over a few weekends to get used to it or only use it on weekends.

I got a little ahead of myself posting the video. I'm excited it works! I've still got some more to do, at which point I'll do a complete post about the process.

It's pretty easy though. Everything runs off an extension cord right now. The security camera is this:

http://www.amazon.com/Zmodo-ZM-SH75D001-WA-Camera-Two-way-Monitoring/dp/B00ZZ4HX1K

The coop motor is this:

http://www.amazon.com/Add-A-Motor-Chicken-Automatic-Motor-D20/dp/B007IZJWNQ

and we turn it on and off using a WeMo Wifi plug:

http://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Enabled-Electronics-anywhere-Compatible/dp/B00BB2MMNE

Where on earth are you seeing that? It's 39.99 on amazon too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB2MMNE

I have heard of people using things such as this: http://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Electronics-Anywhere-Automation-Smartphones/dp/B00BB2MMNE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1396618772&sr=1-1&keywords=belkin+wemo

It's an outlet that connects to your home wifi and allows you to control whether it supplies power or not from your phone, anywhere. Then you just set the BIOS of the rig to automatically power on when it gets power.

If you have some way to remotely monitor the rig, you can keep an eye on it. When it crashes, you turn the power off at the outlet, and then power it back on. The rig should be off when you turn the power back on, so the BIOS would detect power and boot up.

Rather than worrying about heating, get a timer for it. I have one of these switches hooked up to my rocket and have different times for weekdays and weekends. It works great.

WeMo Switch, Wi-Fi Enabled, Control Lights & Appliances From Your Phone, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BB2MMNE

Any real espresso maker is going to have so much copper and brass that it'll take some time to heat up. 15-30 minutes typically.

There are ways to cheat the heat up time but it requires you to flush the hot water through it. That's fine in emergency, but not something I would want to do daily. See below.

http://www.coffeekid.com/archived/rancilio/cheatsilvia

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00BB2MMNE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480054898&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wemo+switch

WEMO switch. I have a tplink that works on the same principle. Plug it in. Connect it to the WiFi via the app and you can monitor it via the app. Shows if it's on/off and you can turn it on or off depending the state

Cool project! I was simpler and just bought a remote control outlet from Amazon that controls the power source of the Chromecast and could use a more fancy WeMo Remote if I wanted to do everything from my phone.

Wanted to try out your route but didn't have the motivation.

I'd recommend the WeMo switch in your case. Reasons:

1. a smart bulb only works if the light switch / lamp is left in the ON position. So if you accidently turn off the switch/lamp, the bulb is useless. With a smart switch, you avoid this issue.
   
   
2. Switches are more versitile, you're not limited to light sources that take standard bulbs.
   
   
3. WeMo app allows you to have control of the switch wherever you are (as long as you have internet access).
   
   
4. Switches don't require a central hub, smart bulbs do.

For a voltage control I have both a plain 'LED dimmer' they sell for christmas lights and the dimmer with a voltmeter wired onto it that Underdog sells. The timer I have is just a cheap outlet timer, one of the old school manual dials, that I already had kicking around the cellar.

The wifi control outlet is here, I guess it's actually more like $30:
https://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Switch-Smart-Wi-Fi-Amazon/dp/B00BB2MMNE

Sounds like you want a smart plug. If you just want a smartphone app, the iHome would do. If you want IFTTT support, check out the WeMo switch. There are lots of others too, just search for smart plug.

Looks like they're out of stock till December 28, but still for sale: WeMo Switch

For myself, I use a Wemo outlet and plug table lights into it. Yes, I can control Wemo outlets outside the home.

https://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Switch-Smart-Wi-Fi-Amazon/dp/B00BB2MMNE

For outside the home... I have motion sockets. If something moves.... the porch lights come on.

https://www.amazon.com/Westek-OMLC3BC-4-Outdoor-Activated-Control/dp/B002IXFDUY/

Some of these things are more than $50, but I have seen them on sale for $50 before.

• VESA Monitor Stand
  
• UPS (Uninterrupted power supply)
  
• Webcam
  
• SSD
  
• HDD
  
• Card Reader
  
• Home Automation Equipment

Try one of these?

Have a look at a Wemo plug.

I ran a mechanical timer on my espresso machine for over a decade. Worked fine, but I just recently switched to a Wemo.

The Wemo is pretty nice. You control it with your cell phone - set schedules and such. You can check the machine's power status and turn it on or off from anywhere in the world. Pretty slick.

Wemo is made by Belkin, so the software is a bit... odd. But after a brief period of getting used to its quirks it works just fine.

Well if you use devices like this https://www.amazon.com/Switch-control-lights-appliances-Amazon/dp/B00BB2MMNE you're golden.

I haven't bought one yet, but I will eventually.

Remotely controllable power sockets are a godsend.

EDIT: Before anyone else asks, I'd recommend these in conjunction with Wake on LAN to reboot remotely if/when you break something.

They work fabulously for home server setups, too.

Are these just ordinary lights? Easiest way would be to get some kind of home automation plug. Something like this would probably do the trick. That's just the first thing I found while googling. Others may be better.

With a WeMo Switch

You can power off and on via remote. The WiMO App handles all the forwarding.

If you have a WiFi hotspot or Z-Wave alarm system you could also power off and on remotely that way as well.

Thank you for the topic, I need all the idea's i can get for this


https://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Switch-Enabled-Control-Appliances/dp/B00BB2MMNE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465521086&sr=8-1&keywords=wemo

The WeMo Plugin outlet switch. Its twice the price. In the context of an Amazon Echo, is there any difference with an OpenHab controller for it running on wifi?

Easiest and cheapest to get your toes wet:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BB2MMNE

No hub, only Wi-Fi, that's what I started with just automating one lamp

Also, as mentioned, if you ask Alexa "what are the deals?" You can get this one for $20 ($10 off) when you but it through her. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BB2MMNE/ref=mh_s9_acsd_bw_wf_a_VANS_cdl_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-9&pf_rd_r=JYVKSMBCFWZDB6E28TPZ&pf_rd_t=1201&pf_rd_p=b94e9a16-5fbe-4053-a8be-9f67baa76533&pf_rd_i=14552177011

What about something like this even?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BB2MMNE/183-7673079-1405954

You can use a Belkin Wifi Outlet to restart the miner remotely at any time. Best investment you can make.

I use the Belkin Wemo ( http://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Electronics-Anywhere-Automation-Smartphones/dp/B00BB2MMNE )

It's technically not heavy duty, but seems to be able to handle this fine. Use at your own risk!

Something like a Belkin Wemo switch - works with IFTTT so you can do Home -> IFTTT -> Wemo.

You can buy them used for ~35 USD on Amazon currently https://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Switch-Smart-Wi-Fi-Amazon/dp/B00BB2MMNE

There may be other, cheaper internet-enabled switches out there that I don't know about.

You know, I had another idea. Kind of insane, but it would work (I think).

So that humidifier runs on 24 volts DC power, which comes from your furnace's C terminal. It's also what powers the Ecobee. You could purchase for fairly cheap a plug-in inverter that turns household 110 volt AC power into 24 volt DC power, so you could power the humidifier from a wall outlet instead of the furnace.

Why would you care about doing this? Because of IFTTT. You can create a "trigger" in IFTTT for when your Ecobee detects the humidity is below X%, and another trigger when it goes above X%.

So that's the "trigger" that tells IFTTT to do something. The "something" it will do is turn one of those wifi outlets (like this) on and off. See where I'm going? When the humidity falls below X% as detected by the Ecobee, it triggers IFTTT to turn that wifi outlet on (into which the 110vac to 24vdc inverter connected to the humidifier is plugged), which would turn on the humidifier! When the humidity goes above X%, you have another trigger which then turns off the wifi outlet.

The only problem with this setup is that you don't know if the heat is running or not, so the humidifier could be running/getting wet without the furnace running and blowing air through the filter.

Just an idea. Gotta earn that $3.50! ;)

It would be simpler to get a remote power strip of some kind and turn that on off. I have something like this that I use for a different purpose:

http://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Enabled-Electronics-anywhere-Compatible/dp/B00BB2MMNE/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1452617485&sr=8-12&keywords=belkin+smart+power

Not what you asked, but just showing an alternative.

I plug all my retro consoles and accessories into a power strip and just manually power that on and off when I want to play. Could plug that into something like this I suppose.

https://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Electronics-Anywhere-Automation-Smartphones/dp/B00BB2MMNE

Apparently these work quite well... You could be sure the Silvia reservoir is full, boiler primed, only ON/OFF rocker switch is in ON position and steam valve completely OFF, then activate remotely.

I do know the newest model of Silvia has some sort of power save mode feature, but no idea if it can be disabled.

https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Control-Lights-Appliances-Amazon/dp/B00BB2MMNE

Drop the style down to "Light Switch"

Like a smart plug?

Why not use a plug in wi-fi enabled switch like this https://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Switch-Smart-Wi-Fi-Amazon/dp/B00BB2MMNE and plug in a portable or window AC unit.

Would a Belkin WeMo fit your needs?

Good write up. I wish I had considered this or truly, had anyway to know it when I started my setup.

I do have one additional Smart Plug not listed I can add to your list..

Weemo Smart Plug

Physical Dimensions

• 2.5 x 5.3 x 8.2 inches
  
  Plugs spaces used in regular outlet
  
• 2
  
  Plug Spaces in 6 outlet power strip (side by side)
  
• 2
  
  I don't have a power strip that is "stacked" but given how long it is, I have to assume it takes up all of them.
  
  Price
  
• $39.99
  
  I wish I had seen this before I dropped almost $90 on two plugs that are logistically very challenging (to be fair, they work great they are just huge)
  
  

They don't really need complete darkness, or complete silence. You probably don't want the LEDs on 24/7, but you will need some kind of nightlight so you guys can see when you go get her in the middle of the night.

Put those LEDs to a red tone, which won't interfere with sleep much. You can also put them on something like this which would let you both time it, and turn them off or off from your phone or tablet.

There are lots of subreddits you can get in to for this kind of stuff. r/electronics , r/raspberry_pi , r/homeautomation . I recently have started to rig some stuff up. I have an Amazon Echo, a WiFi MagicLight for a bedside light, a WeMo switch for a bedside fan, allowing me for voice operation of both. A lot of home automation switches/lights/sensors run on local signaling systems through ZigBee or Z-Wave standards which require a central hub to manage. Think of it as kind of like a router for your home automated items. I haven't purchased one yet as I am taking everything a step at a time since I don't have the money to just automate my whole house at the drop of a dime, but from my research the Samsung SmartThings hub seems to be one of the more capable hubs on the market currently. From what i've read, it requires a little more tinkering to set some things up (appealing more to the tech-savy), but supports a lot more and is capable of much more than the other hubs on the market. If you are looking for a more easy to setup hub for your home, consider the Wink hub. Finally, if you have a bit more expendable cash at your disposal, the HomeSeer HomeTroller ZS2 hub appears to be a pretty good one along with their software for a home automation interface. Not sure if you were still interested in this stuff, regardless it is pretty neat to be able to voice control your home. As you can see it can be quite an expensive hobby/accomplishment/task whatever you want to call it, I recommend a refurbished Amazon Echo as a starting point and going from there. Cheers!

You'd still also need to by the wink hub to get it to work with your smartphone.

> http://m.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-300-Watt-100-Watt-Plug-In-Lamp-Dimmer-with-Pico-Remote-Control-Kit-White-P-PKG1P-WH-D/205365529

Belkin's WeMo line has a few options that work via WiFi:

• If your lamp plugs in you could use this module:
  http://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Electronics-Anywhere-Automation-Smartphones/dp/B00BB2MMNE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411318585&sr=8-2&keywords=Wemo
  
  
• If your lamps are connected to a wall switch you could use this:
  http://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Control-Anywhere-Automation-Smartphones/dp/B00DGEGJ02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411318659&sr=8-1&keywords=Wemo
  
  
  
  
• Another option is if your lamp is on a switch and your phone has an IR Blaster you can use this cheaper Lutron option:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MIR-600THW-WH-600-Watt-Infrared-Receiver/dp/B000JJYJMM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411318550&sr=8-1&keywords=Lutron+Remote+Light+Switch
  
  The last option is what's in my bedroom and my wife thought it was stupid at first, but it's one of the nicest things in the world not having to turn off the light and then fumble your way to bed in the dark.

Not possible without hacking the Chromecast (which as far as I know is not possible).

Your best lazy bet would be to get this: WeMo Switch, Wi-Fi Enabled and plug the Chromecast into it.

I use a WeMo switch to accomplish this. I hated the WeMo app, so I built a small PHP page to control it and threw it on a Raspberry Pi. I want to work on a script to check the chromecast to see if it is casting something and then turn on the switch automatically, but haven't gotten there yet.

PM if you want help or instructions.

http://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Electronics-Anywhere-Automation-Smartphones/dp/B00BB2MMNE/

You will need two things primarily.

One, a SmartHub.
I would go the z-wave route unless you're a huge fan of apple's HomeKit in which case you will want a AppleTV 4. I prefer SmartThings myself, but Wink is also a good option.

Two, Smart Switches. If you go the Z-Wave route, the options are nearly endless. LINEAR and GE makes Z-wave switches that are about $30/piece. Just remember that you need neutral wires in your wall to use them. AeoTec makes some that hide behind your existing switches. Tons of people make the kind that plug into your outlets so you can control things that are plugged into them. Or you can replace the whole receptacle with a new z-wave outlet.
If you go the Apple HomeKit route check out iDevices. It's a bit more expensive, but runs on WiFi which is better than Bluetooth in most cases.

edit: words and stuff

Or you could buy a WeMo that allows you to turn on/off the device without having to spend $150.