#155 in Tools & Home Improvement
Use arrows to jump to the previous/next product

Reddit mentions of Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench with Inch/Pounds Measurement, Bits and Storage Case for Scope Mounting, Gunsmithing and Maintenance

Sentiment score: 15
Reddit mentions: 43

We found 43 Reddit mentions of Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench with Inch/Pounds Measurement, Bits and Storage Case for Scope Mounting, Gunsmithing and Maintenance. Here are the top ones.

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench with Inch/Pounds Measurement, Bits and Storage Case for Scope Mounting, Gunsmithing and Maintenance
Buying options
View on Amazon.com
or
    Features:
  • ACCURACY: +/- 2 inch/pounds up to 40 inch/pounds; 40 – 65 is +/- 5%
  • EASE OF USE: Apply, repeatable, accurate torque settings to scope rings, guard screws, windage screws and base screws, which aids in accuracy and decreases the opportunity for problems in the field
  • RELIABLE: Torque adjustment range from 10 inch/pounds to 65 inch/pounds
  • DURABLE: Bits are made of S2 tool steel and hardened to 56-58 Rockwell “C”
  • INCLUDES: 10 bits (hex to square adapter, #10 flat blade, #32 flat blade, #11 flat blade, 5/32 hex, 7/64 hex, 3/32 hex, T20 torx, T15 torx and Leupold specialty flat blade), ¼” socket and a convenient plastic storage case
  • LONGTERM USE: Always return to the lowest inch/pound setting after use
  • GUARANTEED: This product is covered by a limited lifetime warranty provided by Wheeler. Please contact Wheeler customer service for assistance
Specs:
ColorOriginal Version
Height3.0708661386 Inches
Length3.2283464534 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateFebruary 2010
Size1
Weight2.20462262 Pounds
Width6.0629921198 Inches

idea-bulb Interested in what Redditors like? Check out our Shuffle feature

Shuffle: random products popular on Reddit

Found 43 comments on Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench with Inch/Pounds Measurement, Bits and Storage Case for Scope Mounting, Gunsmithing and Maintenance:

u/psycho944 · 14 pointsr/longrange

Fat wrench is the best thing ever. Amazon

u/gwhunter280 · 10 pointsr/longrange

I would suggest investing in a wheeler FAT wrench so you know you are not over torquing your bolts. I have never broken any torx keys with using loctite.

Edit: Wheeler

u/Number1AbeLincolnFan · 8 pointsr/ar15

This might be excessive, but I wanted to be thorough so you can see what all is out there. I am having trouble thinking of anything that the following tools can't do, in terms of AR building and maintenance. This is basically my setup at home, though some.of the brands and whatnot are different.

I am operating under the assumption that you already have some basic hand tools in addition to the torque wrench.

The only things you absolutely need are roll pin punches and an armorer's wrench and some basic hand tools like Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and so on. The rest just expedite the process and help solve weird issues that may come up.


Wheeler Engineering Roll Pin Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NWBVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJZDAb1ZFBQ80

Wheeler Roll Pin Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JZDAbV5YGA8M

Wheeler Hammer and Punch Set In Plastic Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNZDAb1Y74EF0

Geissele Automatics 10-169 AR15/M4 Reaction Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY6WFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hOZDAbD3JHBAE

Aeroshell 33ms / MIL-G-21164D / MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease + 1/2oz can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4OZDAbQGRYJJ2

TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPZDAbQ05H680

TEKTON Long Arm Star Key Wrench Set, T10-T50, 9-Piece | 25291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQZDAbRX59VNW

IRWIN Tools Multi-Purpose Bench Vise, 5-Inch (4935505) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TOCZEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QZDAbT8R47J0

Yost UP-360 Universal 6 Inch Prism Style Jaw Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVQH42U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aRZDAbRHAV73E

Real Avid Gun Tool Pro - for Modern Sporting Rifles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMHX5KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bUZDAbEB87JFB

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xWZDAb1SRYD6D

Wheeler Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set (43-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXZDAbQX5BEWF

TacWater USA AR15/M4/M16 Tools Multi-Purpose Tool Set (W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WWZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GYZDAbRGY3CNH

Takedown Pivot PIN Tool set 223 556 6.8 SPC 300 AAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OUSJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.ZDAbSHZPEG5

Magpul Bev Block https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block

u/bcphotog · 8 pointsr/ar15

Just a simple setup would be, in no particular order:

 

  • Vise
  • AR Tool - I have a powder coated green AR tool, forgot who makes it.
  • Screwdrivers
  • Good Lighting - Seriously, a good light source goes a long ways in the ease of building things. I have a drafting lamp very similar to this type.
  • AR Mat - Useful for putting stuff together (and cleaning of course) your AR on your desk/dinner table, so your wife or SO won't murder you. I have this cleaning mat.
  • Roll Pin Punches - I used a set of regular punches from Lowe's for a while, i finally got around to getting a set of actual roll pin punches on Amazon recently.
  • Small Hammer - I got this small 8-ounce hammer on Amazon. It's perfect for use with the roll pin punches.
  • Mallet - Useful for hitting things without marring up the finish.
  • Vise Block - I use a Magpul Bev block for work on my lower or upper. Waiting for the next Geissele sale so i can snag a Geissele Super Reaction Rod to replace the Bev block on upper work.
  • Allen Wrenches - I have this set of 3 hex-torx allen wrenches. Super handy for rails and other mount screws. Might also want a long handle set if you use a hex screw for your pistol grip like i do.
  • Torque Wrench - I have this Tekton torque wrench for barrels nuts, castle nuts (if you do torque yours, i don't usually), and whatever else needs to be torqued.
  • Torque Screwdriver Kit - I have this Wheeler Torque Wrench/Screwdriver set, super handy for screws that require a certain torque spec.

     

    That's what i can think of off the top of my head, you probably won't need all of that if you only plan on building a lower first. It'll be useful down the line to get most of those tools, but i'd go with first:

  • AR tool
  • Bev Block/Vise Blocks/Reaction Rod
  • Roll Pin Punches
  • Vise

    If you have Amazon Prime, there's quite a bit of stuff you can get on there, it's where i got most of my tools.

     

    ^Edit: ^Formatting.
u/5hakey · 7 pointsr/longrange

I'm not knocking the goal, all goals are ultimately arbitrary. What I'm saying is you should not put your goal on a pedestal. If you want to shoot at 1k, get your dope and scope and go shoot at 1k now. Shorter distances are good for practice when you can't get to the big range. Your goal of a ~1moa cold-bore shot is entirely reachable and will mostly depend on your wind-reading and reloading skills.

If you want, you can install your new optic yourself with a set of $10 levels and a $50 wrench. It's not rocket surgery.

Personally, I think break-in has a bigger effect on velocity than accuracy. I've never noticed any velocity effects but some other people have reported faster velocities after a few hundred rounds.

u/rasiahs · 7 pointsr/canadaguns

Congratulations!

  • Personally I would recommend either a Remington 700 over the 783. There's nothing wrong with the 783, but the 700's fit, finish as well as the overall quality is just superior and I'm a firm believer in the "buy once, cry once" philosophy, especially with firearms. If you buy the 783, my bet is that as you get a little more serious about shooting, you'll end up buying a 700.

  • With all that said, if you're not hell bent on buying a Remington, I personally would go with a Tikka T3 (there are many, many models). Overall it's about the same as a Remington 700 in terms of quality, but the bolt action is just silky smooth and the trigger pull is wonderful. I'm biased because I'm a bit of a Tikka fan, so take my advice with a grain of salt.

  • In regards to the .308 calibre, again I'm a bit biased because my rifle is in .308 but regardless, I think .308 is the way to go. It's easily found, and comes in a variety of weight from (approximately) 120gr to 200gr so you have a choice of choosing a lighter bullet for smaller game or a heavier bullet for larger game.

  • To pass the time while your PAL/RPAL is being processed, I strongly suggest buying high quality safety equipment You don't have to break the bank, but don't skimp. Apart from that I'd say buy a good soft case, and later down the road you can buy a hard case (my personal favourite is the Pelican 1750). Here's a little list....

  • Ear protection: Howard Leight Impact Sport and Howard Leight earplugs (Personally I use both-- you only get one pair of ears!)

  • Eye protection: Smith Aegis Arc (DS Tactical is a great company to deal with)

  • Hard case: Pelican 1750 (Production Case is a nice Canadian company with prices way better than anywhere else and great customer service)

  • Bipod: Harris Engineering (widely considered the best bang for your buck product-- I use the 9-13 inch because I'm a bit taller, but most people like the 6-9)

  • Soft case: Cabela's drag bag-- great product at a great price.


  • Torque wrench: VERY important in my opinion, as I see way too many people over-torquing their gear (i.e. scope mount screws) and messing things up. Wheeler Torque Wrench-- this is what I use. It's reasonably priced and I use it all the time when I'm working on my rifle. I know plenty of people say they're not necessary, but they'll save you from major headaches in the future.

  • Bonus: When you buy your scope, DO THIS to level it. I've tried all kinds of methods, but this by far the best (assuming your rifle is levelled first). It's so simple, but so effective.


    Anyway, I hope this helps. I'll check back in a little bit (studying for finals right now) if I think of anything else.
u/TeamLiveBadass_ · 6 pointsr/guns

Just speaking from experience man, was having so many issues with my AK scope until I saw someone on here recommend it, no issues since.

This is the one I picked up https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seemed to work well enough.

u/4CatDoc · 6 pointsr/rimfire

" If I wanted an accursed 10/22, would it be better to start with a receiver rather than a rifle? "

Depends on how difficult your DM wants to make it to remove the curse. Is it the backbone of their campaign, or is it a hilarious rolling a 1 on your Dex save?

It only does 1d6 damage, but there's 25 rounds in that magazine.

Cheapest way to get some accurizing, buy a +1 Torque screwdriver for 41silver from the Amazonians, it will last you a lifetime of gun ownership. Also, throw out your barrel band, it's decorative and does harm accuracy if it touches the barrel.

​

Seriously though, the receiver, bolt, and frankly MANY other parts do nothing to improve the accuracy of the gun.

Accuracy is many factors, but the biggest lens to view parts with is about "consistency".

Bad scope the doesn't hold zero. Loose rings. Loose rail. Loose barrel. Loose attachment to stock all would obviously harm accuracy.

Ammo: number one is the primer. The better the primer, the better the ammo can be. Eley is famous for primer. Powder load consistency, lead consistency and eccentricity, all of which result is a chonometer measurement that's as tight a bell-curve as possible.

Adjustable Objective scopes let you remove parallax at varying ranges, Simmons 22 Mag AO is a cheap, GREAT for the money scope for Appleseed events. No parallax, consistent aim.

Cheek riser: consistency.

Trigger: You can shoot a 5 lb trigger accurately, it's just harder to pull, easier to engage flinchy muscles like your deltoids and upper arm.

Shorter chamber lets the bullet engage the lands and grooves sooner. Consistency.

11 degree match crown disturbs the bullet less.

Glass bed prevents rattling around in the stock. Consistency.

u/LambastingFrog · 5 pointsr/longrange

I think the answer here may depend on what he wants to do with it. If it's for hunting the answer will be different than if it's for long-range target shooting. I'm going to assume that since you're posting here you're already pretty sure that it's for long range shooting rather than hunting.

Since I don't know how much you know about guns in general I'm going to write it all out assuming nothing, and then you can skip parts that you know. Likewise, in the future, someone who does know nothing might find this and find it useful. I'm writing this because I don't want you to think that I'm being condescending - I'm not trying to be - I just don't know what you already know.

Firstly, he's never going to complain about ammunition. To know which kind of ammunition to buy, take a photo of the writing on the barrel - it'll look something like this. What you're looking for is the part that's not describing the company that made it, or the patents that describe it. Take a photo of that on your phone. In the example photo is says ".300 WIN. MAG". .300 Win Mag is the cartridge that the rifle is chambered in - nothing else will shoot safely out of it, so it's very important to buy the right one. It may not begin with ".3" - it may begin with .2 or be something metric based like 6.5mm something or 7mm something. When it comes time to buy, use an ammunition search engine like AmmoSeek and find the longest match you can for the kind of ammunition. There's a lot of .300 <something> available, but the one that matches the most text is overwhelmingly likely to be correct. The rifle you're buying for will have some match in the list, unless it's custom and weird. If you're not certain that you've found the match then swing by any gun store with the photo and you can confirm with them. They'll likely ask you whether it's for hunting or range or target use. The difference there is in the bullet - hunting bullets peel outwards like a banana and stop in meat to transfer the most energy from the bullet to the animal, so that the animal doesn't get a chance to feel pain. Range/target bullets are designed to fly extremely predictably, but little care is given to what happens when it meets something. There is a third use case - if they ask you whether it's for "defense" or similar then either they don't know enough or they're being patronizing and assuming that you don't know anything. The next choice is the weight of the bullet. Lighter bullets fly faster, but can be blown around by the wind a bit more. The right choice here is "whatever he's already using". If you ever see any of the boxes of ammunition in the house, take photos of all sides of the box on your phone, and then later delete all the ones that don't tell you the weight. Chances are that the information will be on the end flaps that open, and what you're looking for is a number followed by either the word "grains" or its abbreviation "gr". Just for interest there's 437 grains in 1 ounce, and 15 grains in 1 gram. Chances are the number will be in the 70 to 300 range. When you buy, try to buy closest to what you took a photo of. Exact number doesn't matter, but close is good - if he's shooting .308 Win and you see a box of 167 grain bullets, then buying .308 Win with 168 grain bullets is fine (cartridge is correct, and bullet weight is close). Buying .308 Win with 175 grain bullets is okay (cartridge is right, bullet weight is a a little way off), but buying .308 Norma Mag with 168 grain bullets is wrong because the cartridge is wrong.

So, that's "how to find and choose ammo" covered. You can pad the purchase with ammunition to get to a target value.

Next, accessories - there are some accessories that depend on the specifics of the rifle - whether it's long action (LA) or short action (SA) or Magnum. These basically refer to how long the cartridge is. Armed with the knowledge of which cartridge the gun is chambered for, you stand a reasonable chance of finding out which is it by going to Magpul's page about their polymer magazines, and picking the "Remington 700" from the "Platforms" menu. This brings back some magazines. Click on each and scroll down to "Features" - the first line there has a list of example popular cartridges that fit. Make a note of which magazine it is - the length of the action is in the name. If none of them mention the cartridge, then you can also start googling for the cartridge name along with "short action" and "long action" and see what comes back. Chances are it's either pretty definitive, or people asking why you can't put short action cartridges in long action magazines.

Things that have already been mentioned are bipods, triggers and cases. None of these are bad choices, but they're worth a little time listening for, in case he expresses a preference for anything. For example, nobody thinks that buying a Harris bipod is a bad idea, but there are other less well-known choices that he may have decided to look in to - for example, I've got an Atlas bipod. In order to buy the right thing, you'll need to know how it connects to the rifle. A bipod will connect somewhere near the front, on the underside, not touching the barrel. Chances are that there's either a sling stud or a piece of Picatinny rail there, with the sling stud being much more likely. The bipod should connect to that, but since there are choices then you should pick the one that matches what's on the rifle.

With regards to triggers, there are two well-known names - Timney and Jewell (who apparently don't have a website that Google knows about). Both are great. Both require installation in the same manner - undo the two screws holding the rifle into the stock, use a small hammer and punch to a tap a couple of pins out, put the new trigger unit in place, and then tap the screws back in to place, and put screw the rifle back in to the stock. This sounds easy, but there is opportunity to screw up - the trigger has parts that are only held in by the other parts of the rifle, and the screws have to be done up to a specific tightness. If you don't think the person you're buying for would be happy doing that work, then you can pay your local gun store to do it for you for about an hour of their time. Be aware that both Timney and Jewell make triggers for other guns, too.

Someone mentioned magazines - also a great choice, if the rifle can take them. On the underside of the rifle just in front of the trigger guard will be either a plate, or a hole. If it's a hole, then it takes magazines. If it's a plate then it doesn't, yet. If you want to buy magazines, it's probably best to stick with what he's already got. You'll need to know whether you're dealing with short action, long action or magnum, and the instructions for that are above.

Now, if he doesn't have a hole for a magazine in the rifle, that's actually a thing that can be changed with two screws. That said, these are the same two screws that need tightening to a specific tightness. Remington made a few major families of the 700 rifle - the ADL, BDL and CDL. I have no idea what they stand for (if anything). The important thing here is that the ADL isn't made anymore and the BDL and CDL have the plate as part of the trigger guard that covers the hole where the magazine would go. To be more complete, it does cover a magazine, but it's internal to the rifle and you can't just swap it for a fresh, full magazine when it's empty. It's called a blind magazine. The part we're going to replace this with is called "bottom metal", because it's the piece of metal at the bottom of the rifle. Yep, that's how imaginative we are at naming things. There are two main shapes that this bottom metal comes in - BDL and M5. BDL is a straight swap with what's already there. M5 is bigger, and requires machining out some of the stock to make room for it. The process is called "inletting". Your local gunsmith would do this from a template with a router. You'll also need to know whether you're buying for a short action rifle or a long action rifle. A good brand name here is "Pacific Tool and Gauge", or Magpul (pick Remington 700 from the "Platforms" list) but there are quite a lot of choices.

Another choice might be a shooting rest bag. I don't use one, so I don't have good advice here.

Another good choice might be tools for him to make changes he wants to make to his rifle. The best advice I'd give for this one is a FAT Wrench. It's a screwdriver that stops at a tightness that you set. That's how you make sure that the screws are at the right tightness, and with long-range stuff, everything needs to be the right tightness.

Finally - where the heck do you buy from? The big names to buy from are Brownells and MidwayUSA. They both mark the outside of their boxes, though, so it's worth considering having them deliver to your office or to a friend, so that you can repackage before bringing it inside your home to avoid suspicion.


One last thing - if you do have any questions about this you can send me a private message and I'll ask for photos of the whole gun and the information about the cartridge and I'll be happy to help.

u/GrendelBlackedOut · 5 pointsr/PrsAccessoriesForSale

Bruh, for $40-50, why don't you just buy a new one.

u/schnurble · 5 pointsr/1022

Yes. You definitely should make sure you mount everything with the correct torque. I recommend the Wheeler Fat Wrench for installing scopes, mounts, etc.

u/jayemo · 3 pointsr/longrange

Oh damn, I'd honestly shy away from using loctite on mounts. Look into a torque wrench and once you're at spec you won't need loctite. I've got this one and have mounted about a dozen scopes with it: http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

Thanks, clear lower gets a lot of questions at the range.

u/Mastercutlet · 3 pointsr/guns

this is the norm. Good reviews too, or you could go crazy.

u/calgun03 · 3 pointsr/ar15

It's not difficult, you just need the tools to pull your current handguard off and remove the barrel nut (because most handguards comes with their own proprietary barrel nut). Then you'll thread on your new barrel nut, tighten it down to roughly 30ftlbs, install the new handguard, and you're done.

You'll probably need an AR15 armorers wrench, anti-seize/grease of some sort (I like Loctite Anti-Seize, but some people have heartburns over what to use. Something is better than nothing), and a torque wrench. And probably also another inch-lb torque wrench.

As for the quality of the handguard, I've never used that one, so I can't speak for it.

u/TypicalCricket · 3 pointsr/canadaguns

Yes, it will xome in handy. Get yourself one of these or better yet the whole kit that comes with lapping bars and everything.

u/atrajicheroine · 3 pointsr/longrange

Go on Amazon and get the Wheeler torque wrench.

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BJXJAbTNBDGD1

u/Welcometodiowa · 2 pointsr/Firearms

This is what I use to install scopes. (Amazon link)

The documentation that came with the scope and the rings should have the appropriate torque, or you can almost certainly find it online. $43 is a decent investment to keep from cranking down too much and stripping the screws or, worse, distorting the scope tube or too little and having a wobbly scope.

u/minimag47 · 2 pointsr/ar15

Your torque wrench cannot possibly do inch pounds unless you have a really specialized torque wrench.

Unfortunately if you set your torque wrench to 25, you set it to foot pounds which means it applied 300 inch pounds of force.

Edit: This is what you need to do inch pounds. Wheeler Torque Screwdriver

u/Hsoltow · 2 pointsr/ar15

If you want to build an AR on your own (grown man legos ftw) I suggest you build one. You can build a quality AR on the cheap. There is a barrier to entry from the tools you will need but from there on out you can use those tools for multiple builds. At a minimum you will need:

u/Oberoni · 2 pointsr/longrange

If you want a torque wrench/screw driver for scope mounting or other light smithing work Wheeler makes a good one.

u/brianlpowers · 2 pointsr/longrange

Most scope rings/bases use 15-30 in-lbs. I'd highly recommend this one:


Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eBqpxbSC2XE5G

This is the one that most people end up buying. I've had it for a couple years, 5 stars! It comes with all the bits you'll need.

u/MachiavelliV · 2 pointsr/longrange

In the spirit of staying buget, you could get a budget bipod that works fine too: http://www.amazon.com/Hunting-Adjustable-Spring-Return-Sniper/dp/B00U27O9TY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463606745&sr=8-2&keywords=swivel+bipod

The primary arms 4-14 is great. I'd choose the R-Grid over the mil-dot.

http://www.primaryarms.com/pa4-14xffp-r-grid/p/kt-pa4-14xffp-r-grid/

I'd just pair that scope with the accompanying primary arms low rings too.

Get a fat wrench:
http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

So you can torque everything to spec including the top rail to action and action screws (action to bottom metal).

Might consider a muzzle brake, rear bag and stock pack too, but see first how your face is sitting on the rifle.

You should be able to lay down on the rifle, close your eyes and basically go to sleep, and then open them and still have a great sight picture. So your 'resting' position on the stock should put you in line with the scope.

Others will chime in with great budget options for break, stock pack, and rear bag. I just always get triad tactical things for my rifles.




u/TBIRD9412 · 2 pointsr/guns

Savage 10 in .223 Remington

Vortex Diamondback HP 4-16x42

LaRue Tactical Ultra-Low Mount Rings
OR
Vortex precision matched 30mm rings

Also buy this wrench https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

It will help you out a ton.

u/payperplain · 2 pointsr/longrange

Use Vortex rings. I have them on my Ruger American and they are amazing. I can't remember which model they are but /u/vortexoptics can chime in. I use the ones that have size screws. I got my torque wrench on Amazon for like $45 from wheeler. Here it is.

I'm gonna poke around vortex website and see if I can find the rings for you. This is they. They are not the best thing Votex offers and I can't even find them on their website anymore hence why I had to hunt down amazon. These things work though. They aren't as good as some of my other rings but you can't beat the quality for the price.

u/Neurorational · 1 pointr/electrical

I can't say with any certainty but it wouldn't surprise me if many electricians don't use torque tools.

I'm not a pro but I got me one of these "firearms" torque screwdrivers because I like to do it as correctly as possible.

Failing that I'd say that it's probably better to over-tighten than to under-tighten, so long as you don't strip or break the threads.

u/tjseals · 1 pointr/ar15

loctite blue and aeroshell 33ms for the barrel install, also great for installing a freefloat handguard and scope mounts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ive found luck with this punch set, although the 3/32 did bend a smidge when I was pounding the hell out of it when pinning my gas block. also a rollpin starter punch set is a nice addition.

https://www.amazon.com/Fixxxer-Hollow-Stainless-Steel-Starter/dp/B0191RFK4I/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1480117372&sr=1-4&keywords=starter+punch+set

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012TKY0VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/s0nspark · 1 pointr/Glocks

Done right the MOS system is solid. There are a few things to know, though:

  1. Replace the provided screws with the Battlewerx RMR screw kit.
  2. Use the Trijicon sealing plate.
  3. Use Vibratite VC-3 instead of blue loctite.
  4. Use a torque wrench to tighten the screws to 12-14 in/lbs.
  5. Optionally, spring for the C&H Precision V3 optic plate

    The only reasons I see to have a Glock milled these days is if you want irons forward, are using an oddball optic or are already having mill work done.
u/headwinds_everywh6 · 1 pointr/prusa3d
u/uponone · 1 pointr/longrange

I would ask a buddy if he has a torque wrench or screw driver in lb/in. If not, here's one I'm probably going to buy. It's best to eliminate as much as you can with the hardware. If everything is to spec, you've at least eliminated your rig. There could be a little bit of cant in your reticle. I'd also read this article to make sure you've eliminated cant in your reticle to the best of your abilities.

Howto post pics to reddit can be found here.

u/eXploited_alot · 1 pointr/guns

Do you have an Inch/lb wrench?

Wheeler sells a "Fat Wrench" amazing... A MUST HAVE

http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

u/cutindouble · 1 pointr/Tools

I have one of these for basic gunsmithing and scope mounting: http://www.amazon.ca/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S
Torque can be set up to 65in/lbs, accepts standard 1/4 bits and has an adapter for 1/4" sockets. No more stripped holes for me.

u/TeaKay-421 · 1 pointr/longrange

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

There's the analog version from Amazon. I have one, I like it, it seems to work well. I don't have anything to test it against, so I don't know if the torque it puts out is accurate, or if it's the best of the best, but it's good enough for me.

u/-HVACn00b- · 1 pointr/longrange

Awesome and congrats!
As far as how it sits it was just temporarily mounted.
The case I thought I had which was large enough for this was not, so I had to disassemble it.

I plan to order one of these, while browsing this sub reddit

Wheeler torque wrench

u/drpppr · 1 pointr/rccars

Something like this is still a hand tool, but with no actual numbers in the manual you have to find out all needed torques by yourself.

u/mthoody · 1 pointr/1022

Save the money you would have spent on a gunsmith and buy a $50 torque wrench.

Depending on the rings you buy, you may need blue loctite. Before you tighten anything, close your eyes and find your natural cheek weld. Open your eyes and move the scope forward or back to suit. Level the scope. You can use bubbles, but I find squaring a flat surface on the bottom of the scope to the rail is more foolproof. Use torque wrench to tighten everything following instructions that come with the rings.

u/Haln2016 · 1 pointr/longrange

Get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S
Tourqe it down to spec and do like ppl say. Go from one side to the other. Right tool and technique will get you a correct mount and no chance of squeezing the tube due to excessive force. If your not sure of the needed force something like the tool i linked will give you piece of mind. And i can recommend buying lapping equipment.