Reddit mentions of X-Acto #1 Precision Knife | Z-Series, Craft Knife, with Safety Cap, #11 Fine Point Blade, Easy-Change Blade System

This has been brought up pretty often on this subreddit, and I feel like there is a division between two main theories on the problem:

• It's a software glitch / bad reporting / excessive app or system use.
  
• It's a hardware malfunction.
  
  I was in the same situation (very similar screenshot) and was told by a Google representative after a few e-mails back and forth that I was out of my warranty period. I finally got fed up with it enough that I bought a new battery and replaced it a few days ago. As others who have also replaced their batteries have said, it truly is like having a brand new phone. I highly recommend it, though the process is a pain in the ass. Being concerned anytime the phone is below 60% battery is no way to live, especially when it drops to that point so quickly after being taken off charge.
  
  Battery - $8.99 Amazon Prime; comes with opening tools but does not include a precision knife.
  
  Replacement back glass camera cover - $7.99 Amazon Prime; because the battery did not come with precision knives and I am not a patient man, so I clearly broke the glass.
  
  Precision knife - $3.58 add-on item; plan ahead. Don't be like me.
  
  Heat gun - $19.97 Amazon Prime; you can use a hair dryer but this is a ton easier.
  
  Tutorial
  
  If you decide to go ahead with it, best of luck.

They sell a special pack to get the chair without the logo, and It's only 15$ extra.

https://usa.clutchchairz.com/product/pewdiepie-edition-throttle-series-brofist-removal-kit/

Tamiya make a good Willys Jeep - the more recent version is item # 35219. Amazon link. Get him some Tamiya extra thin cement, an x-acto knife, and consider a starter set of model paints. For brush painting I suggest Vallejo Model Color paints - basic colors for the jeep would be something like black, white, olive drab green and a brown.

The fight pad frame has a thin indented line that you can run a xacto knife thru ( ill leave a amazon link below) so you layer it with the decals you can get the from amazon as well just type whaterver you want and the word "decals" after and you will see a few that sell 100count for $9.99.

The process

Layer the decals to fill space i suggest putting the ugly decals you dont want first and put the ones you do like last on top to show off the ugly ones are just to cover the area as the will become a background to the ones you put last. Then over lap the decals over the thin line around the frame of the fight stick and take the knife and run it down the gap to get that perfect cut and rinse and repeat.

As for the buttons just lay the decal over the button and the area you would like to place it then before peeling the back of the decal cut the round shape out of the decal then peal then place. Other than that be careful not to cut your self and have a trash can to throw the back of the decals aways smoke a blunt and have fun. And add fb_playerb on xbox so we can fight on a game good luck

X-ACTO #1 Knife, Z Series With Safety Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_McFhDb8DTM7XA

100 PCS Dragon Ball Z Stickers, CATTA DBZ Stickers Pack Waterproof Removable Vinyl Decals for Laptop, MacBook, Bottles, Skateboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SQ74R7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_udFhDbAZD19S6

As monkeys says, I recently did an Airfix starter set. I was between houses so had very little stuff.

I bought a Airfix Electric English Lightning. If you search for Airfix starter sets you’ll find other options.

I used minimal tools:

• X-Acto craft knife
  
• Needle files
  
• Sanding sponge
  
• Sprue cutters
  
  You could find some of that grouped into one product if you look about like this.
  
  There’s some good YouTube videos to help a new user like this one from Airfix themselves making their own Spitfire starter kit.
  
  So here’s my album of what I used. And here’s the finished Electric Lightning.

• For containers I just use 1 pint cheap plastic containers that soups come in or deli give you. I guess you can find a nice piece of Tupperware that is about that size, and a taller one for taller prints. You could probly just ask the Deli guys at a food store for a few empty 1 pint containers + lids.
  
  
  • 2 containers - one with pure IPA and one with clean water. Good lids that won't leak.
    
    
• 91% or 99% IPA for cleaning your build plate / resin vat / scraping tools / desk / etc. and for using in the print wash container. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABPUGH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• More gloves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CF49NJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My palm width is about 3.6 inches / 9.2 cm and I bought the XL which fit ok.
  
  
• More paint strainers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQELZ7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Better removal tools: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Also get some Xacto knives + extra blades + sand paper sheets in varying grit 300-400 count for smoothing off support marks. https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527015690&sr=8-6&keywords=xacto+blade
  
  Try to find the flexible sand paper sheets that are meant to be hand-used. I found them in Loews 3m brand, this is the exact type of sheets i use: https://www.amazon.com/3M-COMPANY-28320SB-UF4-320G-Sandpaper/dp/B00PPD1CYA/ref=sr_1_7?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1527015867&sr=8-7&keywords=sandpaper+320+grit+3m
  
  
• Find a source for cheap paper towels. I use the real cheap paper towels that you find in bathrooms, the stuff that's really stiff and crappy. I don't use name brands such as Bounty or whatever because the higher quality kitchen paper towels leave behind bits of cloth dust, which is unwanted for cleaning the resin vat / build plate / LCD screen. You'll also go through shitloads of paper towels and the higher quality towels are a waste of money. https://imgur.com/7XeelfV
  
  
• Get a couple sunglasses cleaning cloths. Not the microfiber cloths with the consistency of a bathroom towel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L77OXE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B009L77OXE&pd_rd_wg=OcvWJ&pd_rd_r=3AAAFBB1202BXG3K8QN0&pd_rd_w=cwumx That's just an example - you can probly finder cheaper and better sized/quality towels such as: https://www.amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0050R67U0&pd_rd_r=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ&pd_rd_w=0uPs5&pd_rd_wg=eAMNx&psc=1&refRID=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ
  
  I use these cloths on the LCD screen and the resin vat FEP sheet. After cleaning the resin vat FEP sheet and the LCD with paper towels, I give them a nice polish with the cleaning cloth to remove any other smudges or dust. Make sure to have a cloth dedicated to ONLY the LCD screen, as you want the keep the LCD screen pristine and free of dust and smudges.
  
  You'll also want a print curing station to harden the prints once they have been cleaned. I bought:
  
  
• A plastic cookie jar; clear plastic, round: https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/oxo-good-grips-reg-3-piece-pop-canister-set/3262796?categoryId=12605
  
  
• UV LED Light Strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZQZDBR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Heavy duty tape, such as duct tape or gorilla tape. I used black gorilla tape.
  
  
• Aluminum Foil
  
  

1. Wrap the LED strip around the plastic container to this effect: https://imgur.com/oB98Qxl . Make sure you wrap so that the power cable connector will be at the bottom of the container. Make sure you secure the beginning and the end of the LED strip to container with a piece of tape.
   
   
2. Wrap the LED'd container with aluminum foil - shiny side facing inward. Lay out a long piece of foil on the floor, shiny side facing up, just enough to cover the container's length once. Secure the beginning of the foil piece with a piece of tape, and then secure the end of the foil. Try to wrap without causing creases in the foil, keeping the foil as shiny and smooth as possible. Make sure your power cable plug in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   
3. Secure a piece of foil to the base, shiny side facing inward.
   
   
4. Secure a piece of foil to the lid, shiny side inward. Take a piece of tape and make a 2-sticky-sided loop to secure the foil. Make sure the foil is not interfering with the lid's ability to securely close.
   
   
5. Wrap the whole thing with your gorilla or duct tape. Make sure your power cable plug-in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   

Give me a minute, I can link you to a comment I found explaining it in depth

EDIT: I'm just gonna paste it here. For reference, I,believe priming is coating it in a thin layer of paint to act as a base. Use black primer for darker results and white for lighter. Credit to u/pyrese

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

Chisels: Aiskaer White Steel 3mm 1/2/4/6 Prong DIY Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set Leather Craft Kits(3mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549STU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CRaSBbK7CG7MJ

Burnisher: YazyCraft Multi-Size Wood Slicker Leather Leathercraft Solid Wood Round Burnishing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZAV998/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aSaSBbMVYTCE1

Exacto knife: X-ACTO #1 Knife, Z Series With Safety Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PSaSBbF4PTFBC

Edger: Kinee 7 in 1 Pro Stitching Groover and Creasing Edge Beveler,DIY Leathercraft Sets,sew & Crease Leather,Wood & Steel Hand Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073F6WCBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GTaSBbESQHWPV

Glue:Fiebing's Leathercraft Cement, 4 oz - High Strength Bond for Leather Projects and More - Non-toxic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003W0GFTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-TaSBbWHMVA13

Thread: Rugjut 8 Roll 8 Colors 150D Leather Sewing Waxed Thread Cords,0.8mm,Each of 33 Yards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN8JMQ1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aVaSBbM0KJ3E7

Total: my math says around 35 +-3$ which is not bad considering you will definitely need these tools. My kit was a waste of money even though it was cheaper.

It looks like people have mostly got you started here in terms of supplies. In terms of tools though, this is what I keep in my rebuilding stuff (linking to Amazon just because its easier):

• Small screwdriver set OR Hex set OR a combo set. Which one will depend on the RBA you get, but eventually you'll probably find yourself with ones that have Phillips and Hex screws.
  
• Butane Torch. You can get this same one on Fasttech for $4 if you don't mind the shipping time.
  
• Wire cutters, either full size or micros
  
• Pliers, I also have a set of channel locks accessible, but not in my normal kit, mainly to try and get my Bombshell Stinger apart
  
• A generic desk light or something like helping hands can save a lot of headaches.
  
• Cheap multimeters can be found from $5 - $20
  
• Exacto knife because knives always come in handy at some point (rule #9)
  
  Other generic stuff:
  
  
• Toothpicks (great for wrapping coils around)
  
• Cotton swabs, cotton balls and paper towels
  
• Bic lighter
  
• Scissors for cutting wick (I use the wire cutters, but if you have micros, 3mm wick might get messy/frayed)

This x-acto knife is an add on item on my $5 and under wishlist that I need. I actually ordered it two weeks ago, but the package got lost some how and I just got myself a refund :/

pay attention in class! Ironic, because I'm actually in class right now, haha.

Nah.
Here are tools that will get you going well, IMO.

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410T-Tapered-Tip-Shear/dp/B000IBQEEW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_469_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=31aHJgL3pNL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1QA091E0TTJ7J8FW3MKN

http://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Series-Knife-Cap-XZ3601/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QC3ZT6985MJV0ZTB72N

http://www.amazon.com/Piece-Precision-Needle-File-Set/dp/B006N3EPKE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453474293&sr=8-3&keywords=needle+files

I got my X-acto Knife here

Has done me great justice so far. And, like Dan said, it definitely takes some practice to really use the knife to its full potential.

Hmm...

It looks like you have $396.41 left over for a fountain pen!

Airbrush

Compressor

X-acto -Z series blades are great.

For sandpaper you can just buy some popsicle sticks and 400, 600, 1000 grain, and then a buffing pad from a nearby hobby store or something like walmart even, it's all the same honestly. The popsicle sticks you can wrap the paper over to give you something to rub it against easily. Just practice on some of the parts that come with a kit that don't get used so you aren't eating away too much plastic.

Barbie Complete Looks Teen Titans or Barbie DC Fashion are both preorders. They are so cute! This is available now for crafts.

Thank you for the contest!

I use this X-Acto knife to cut off excess from the heads. Takes at most 1min.

Advice I got from this thread, pick up one of these when you can, great little twister.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXGNMV2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_t1_4VNvCbM29TDAC

Personal advice, always twist 90° and always twist clockwise. That way you know which way and how far when you need to untwist it.

Also (learned from other resident experts) an exacto knife (something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_t1_PZNvCbZ40WD5) is great for getting under those tabs when you need to pry them up. You can dull the edge a little, or live dangerously.

I'm in the US, but this is what I bought (with Prime shipping) from Amazon:

Tamiya Basic Tool Set, $18.90

Gundam Marker 2-pack Black and Gray, $8.99

Alvin 18"x12" Cutting Mat, $9.12

Not sure if this is what you mean by design knife, but you can get an x-acto pretty cheap as an add-on item. I just picked mine up from a local store. Link

This $3.97 addon is my cheapest! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lHNIxb2WR7KGZ

Yayy. Too bad i cant afford it atm. Gotta get the essentials. Im just starting out in model making, are these materials and supllies good for the price? Cant afford an airbrush and compressor atm. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055ANWKA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1Y0OWTP8E47U9&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KRSWM6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069G0TA0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2HUFQYBB8LM3&psc=1

Sure thing! A high-carbon blade would be good to sharpen, but will dull easily and quickly. A stainless steel/HSS blade is incredibly difficult to sharpen, but will hold and edge for a bit longer.

I didn't get to look at your exact examples because I'm on mobile.

Again, I don't know anything about what's available in Turkey, but an X-Acto knife (craft knife, hobby knife, etc) has extremely sharp, cheap, replaceable blades that are amazing for beginner carving. I know you were looking for an all-in-one, but I just recommend this because I think you'd have a better experience, and here in the US you can get an x-acto knife with replacement blades for ~$3 if you buy locally. Amazon has onefor 3.82 without replacement blades. They're super nice knives because if you decide not to use them for carving (you either upgrade or decide you don't enjoy it), they still have a billion uses around the house. And since they're the size of a pen, they're easy and discrete to carry! I would mail you one if I could afford postage. :-P

First I'll answer your last question, no, there is nothing wrong with not painting or going all out on a model. Like you said, you have only been at this for a few months and it is always best to start small. If you keep at it, who knows, months down the road you may be making your own custom models. That being said, lets see what I can suggest for getting the best out of your model without putting a ton of time (or money) into it. The first few things I would pick up are:

• A hobby knife for getting off the remaining nub, and cutting decals.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Cap/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1451350392&sr=8-4&keywords=hobby+knife
  
  
• Sanding sticks to level out the nub.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Squadron-Products-Value-Sanding-Stick/dp/B000CDR5K8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451350756&sr=8-2&keywords=squadron+tri+grit
  
  
• A marker for panel lining.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Uni-Pin-Fineliner-0-05mm-Black/dp/B00A7BSEKK/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451351047&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=uni+pin+.5+fine+liner
  
  
• Flat topcoat, I know you said you didn't want to paint, but this is just a quick step to do at the end to make your model look less like a toy.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-53530-Acrylic-Interior-Exterior/dp/B001C42OXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451351086&sr=8-1&keywords=flat+top+coat
  
  The most important part is have fun with it, and do what you like.

Get this: http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Cap/dp/B005KRSWM6

Very cheap, very durable, very sharp. You're going to gouge a few pieces slightly before you get better with your technique, but that's all part of getting better.

How do you think this set compares to the Tamiya one?

I noticed in the pics of that set that it included a Xuron cutter. Would I get a better cutter with this particular Xuron cutter than the generic one included in the set?

I also have this for a pen knife and this for a file set picked out so I would have 3 main tools (cutter, pen knife, and a file set) for $22.14 total all with 2-day Prime shipping available (so I won't have to stare at an unopened box of Freedom 2.0 for a month waiting for deliveries from Japan).

Would I be missing something crucial if I went with just 3 individual tools above and are there better options for the money (that I won't have to wait a month for)? Any input on all this would be greatly appreciated.

Don't buy that toolset, its very... I'd say low quality but its between low quality and medium quality.

Buy this instead.

• Clippers.
  
• x-acto knife
  
  You will be much better off. They are good tools and will last you ages. Also the blades for the knife should be replaced after one or two builds. But they are cheap and high quality. BE CAREFUL many, many cuts.... Also, You might want to start with a High Grade kit. You will learn a lot after building two or three of them.
  
  

I am using 4mm (nearly 1/4 inch) foamboard purchased from my local Dollar Tree. The foamcore from places like Office Depot is expensive enough that we'd be better served by just buying laser-cut MDF terrain. If I'm looking to experiment, then the "cheap stuff" is more than sufficient, and I honestly can barely tell the difference once the terrain is assembled.

As far as tools go, I am only using a metal straight edge, and a hobby knife. For a while, I was also using a tiny t-square, but I'll be damned if the factory cut edges weren't straighter than what I was getting from the tool. In hind sight, I should have bought on of these.

Getting the lines straight is a beast of a different stripe. That is patience put into practice. Try to draw out as much of the feature as possible so you can take your time with the cuts. Using the metal straight edge as a guide, I drag the knife just over the cut to break the first layer of paper over the foamcore so that the shown edge is as straight and clean as possible. It's super important to use a decently fresh blade. You know you're doing it right when the drawn line looks like it's being erased by the knife; it looks so weird! Once I've made the first cut, I'll line up the second. This cut is for the actual foam of the foamcore. For this cut, the central focus is keeping the blade as straight up-and-down as possible. I do this to ensure that the actual meat of the cut looks as perpendicular as possible to the surface of the material. The third and last cut is for the for the bottom layer of paper. Ultimately it's three cuts per edge, and it's time consuming, but you can't argue with results.

I hope I've answered your questions. If you have any more, please feel free to ask.

There's a lot of ways to approach stenciling. I just started about 5 months ago and have a decent number of pieces completed, but i'm still learning each time I cut and paint.

I'll be happy to share a list of what I use, but just keep an open mind and remember that there's not just a single way to do this.

[] Materials []

• I use #11 blades [Link]
  
• I alternate between these two knives [[link]
  (https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Designer-Hobby-Craft-X3254/dp/B002A2QTGK/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1501185899&sr=8-22&keywords=xacto+11+knife)] [link]
  
• Painters tape [Link]
  
• Spray Mount (Not spray adhesive - I just learned this last week) [link]
  
• 110lb cardstock paper
  
• Clear scotch tape
  
  
• As for paint I just started using Montana, which is a nice-to-have but definitely not necessary. I did a lot of my first pieces with Rusto - in general just stay away from gloss, super gloss, high gloss (it can work, but in general you will have an easier time with flat/mattes.) I went through a lot of trial and error with paint - I bought some Krylon paint which was at a higher price point and it was absolute shit (very watery and runny no matter how long I shook my cans.)
  
  
  [] General Tips []
  
  
• Making your stencils is definitely a part where people's methods differ (specifically in photoshop and breaking up your layers.) Just search YouTube and find a method that works with you.
  
  
• For larger pieces I use rasterbator. Stich them together with clear scotch tape and cut as usual. I tape both sides of the seams/edges.
  
  
• Take your time with your cuts
  
• Make sure your workspace is clean
  
• Let your layers dry
  
• Make sure your stencils are laying flat
  
• shake the shit outta your cans (especially with cheaper paint.) When you think you've shaken enough, shake for another 60 seconds.
  
• Mind the distance between your cans and the canvas (or whatever medium you're painting on)
  
• Take it easy on the paint, you don't need much to create a solid layer.
  
  
  Hope this is helpful, remember to share your pieces!

This is the hobby knife I use and I highly recommend it.

So I'll give you a link to a list that you may find useful for checking all the boxes on what you may need. I'll post my opinions below on some of the stuff I have found is most important. (I went through this process about 2-3 months ago)

http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/32

I LOVE this hobby knife Very important for removing mold lines, cutting off flash, etc. Very important to get one that starts and stays sharp

Primer is incredibly important. You want to make a suitable surface for your paint to adhere to. I would also look up some articles about how to prime. Contrary to popular belief you don't want the entire model to be the color of your prime when you are done! You want it to look almost speckled and have about 80% coverage.

Paint Here is a decent starter box of citadel paint, with a box and some 1/2 decent brushes. Obviously this is a bit pricey, but you get 45 paints plus some helpful extras

Brush Cleaner VITALLY important. Keeps paint out of the ferrule and helps your brushes stay conditioned and pointed

Brushes I just got a Winsor and Newton Series 7 #00, #1 and #2....WOW the difference between these and synthetic brushes is night and day. Painting tasks that seemed to take forever or require too much of a steady hand are MUCH easier now

Dull Cote Matte Spray Essential for providing a matte finish and protection to be able to actually use your minis. This product is excellent for that

Obviously there are many more items that are important to have that are described in more detail in that link I provided. But the ones above are the ones I would consider most essential

PnP Redesign

Materials you will need.

I would drink diet pepsi and do silly things
Yay, add on! I broke the one I have now :(