Reddit mentions: The best metalworking workholding equipment

I'm going to throw a slightly different perspective here. You're definitely going to want a well designed cab and I'm not your man to assist with that.

However, what I do know is the electrical side of it and can advise that a car amplifier is your most efficient route. Converting voltage is inefficient and simply not worth even trying. Your battery will be dead in minutes.

Specifically you're going to want a "Class D" amplifier if you're running on batteries. My money goes on Alpine as they're reliable, strong, clear and often cheap for what you get. Consider the MRV or PDX ranges particularly.

You'll want to decide if you want to go volume (=LOTS of batteries) and get a bigger amp or play it safe and get a smaller amp. I feel like the latter is a safer route but do remember that car amplifier outputs are measured at 14.4v and you'll only achieve ~85% of that with a battery on its own.

Once you assume a Class D amplifier is also 80% efficient you can start to guess at the length of time it'll run at full chat on your battery. Consider Alpine's MRV-M250. It's the smallest single channel I could find them offering at 250W RMS (@ 2 ohms, 14.4v). At 12v that's ~85% of that figure so 212.5W. 80% efficiency means that'll draw 270W. P=IV so P/V=I, 270W/12V=22.5A.

Using this web-based calculator you can see that even to get that to run for an hour, you're going to drain a 106AH "leisure" battery which (by the time you've rounded that up to the more standard 110AH battery size) is a whopping 350x175x190 (mm) and 22kg, not to mention £80/$101.

Saving you the math, the next biggest class D rated at 300W RMS total (75Wx4), the MRV-F300 drains 126AH!

If you do eventually decide to do so, make sure to use a couple of car speakers in series on it (to get 2 ohms). I rate Pioneer's low depth offerings or old JL kit for volume. You'll also want some more range so 6x9 might be an option.

Frankly though I can't see you lugging 35KG of audio around a festival!

Just dial in the temp, and pull the trigger. Have to maintain it - cleaning out the chamber and the nozzel. If you do get that model the spring filter that comes with it is trash but the hakko ones are good albeit expensive here's an amazon link (you may be able to find them cheaper)


edit: apparently 10 come in a package I just ordered some lol I thought it was only one for the spring filter xD

https://www.amazon.com/HHIP-3901-5033-Collet-Chuck-Diameter/dp/B01ADK2RM0/ref=sr_1_9

Looks like it will fit, check the bolt pattern on your lathe and the chuck. Well worth the upgrade if you have the collet set already. I will be ordering a ER-40 chuck and collet set as soon as I get the new lathe on a stand, having used them on the smaller lathe.

I think I may end up going with two of these. And having some sort of wire/pulley system. Any ideas?

http://www.amazon.com/717-10-Stainless-Lock-Out-Retractable-Plunger/dp/B00BTIFCLY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1458267282&sr=8-4&keywords=locking+pin+spring

found the 12pc sets only

https://www.amazon.com/Rego-Fix-1132-00002-ER32-Collet-Set/dp/B01M9GVS9N/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=rego-fix+er32+set&qid=1567478728&s=industrial&sr=1-1

Searching for this thing is weirdly difficult, returning 1/2x20 UNF chucks by the multitude when they're not what the fuck you're looking for, but this is the decent chuck you would want to replace that thing with.

They are wood screws that just hold the sheet metal in. I drilled them out with a #7 bit and tapped it 1/4-20 ad threaded these in. You need to use a low profile 1/4" nut driver to drive them in until they bottom out. Then drill out the sheet metal to be 1/16th so they pop in.