Reddit mentions: The best mp3 player chargers & power adapters

A few things:

• Any type of USB to micro-USB cable will work fine. For example: Amazon, Adafruit.
  
• The adapter (the part that plugs into the wall) does need to be 5V - however pretty much all USB adapters will output 5V because that is the standard for USB (other things that have a barrel plug on the end, like laptop chargers, might be 12V, but you shouldn't need to worry about that).
  
• USB chargers are rated at different currents. The original claim was that you could just use any old micro-USB cell phone charger, but some of those didn't supply enough current for additional USB devices plugged into the Pi (mouse, keyboard, wifi dongle etc). If you have a model B+ (which can handle more current than the Model B thanks to a redesigned power circuit) I'd recommend a supply rated for 2 amps, like this.
  
  
• This wifi dongle is very popular. I have it and it works fine.
  
  
• Adafruit has several cases. I have the black one which is currently out of stock there but also available at SparkFun. I think clear cases are cooler but this one works fine.

I just hard wired my dash cam over the weekend. Surprisingly easy to do. You need an interior panel remover tool and pliers or fuse removal tool to remove a fuse, but that's pretty much it. I ran mine through the headliner(just stuffed it in neatly), down the passenger A pillar and through to the fuse box. Connected the ground to the ground bolt near/under the running plate. Took me and my friend an hour because I was so scared of breaking something removing the interior pannels. You absolutely need the panel tool imo. Dashcam turns on and off with the car 👌

edit: the wires I used. It's a direct replacement for any 15A fuse (no add-a-circuit needed), I used the fuse for the fog lights and just threw that 15A fuse in my tool box in case it's needed in the future. I had quite a bit of slack left over so I just zip-tied it into a neat wad and kept it above the fuse box. I also used some foam to stuff into the panel right below the A-pillar, I'm not sure what that part is called, but there's a lot of room in there and I didn't want any rattle noise coming from a free floating wire in there.

Honestly, if you have to ask this (and certainly this generally), you should probably think twice before attempting it. Keep in mind that faulty wiring and poor circuit design can easily lead to fires, and these happen all the time, even with "professional" Chinese USB wall-warts.

I highly, highly, highly recommend that you don't attempt to build this from discrete parts (ie transformers, rectifiers, voltage regulators, etc) - I'm an EE, and I wouldn't even consider doing this myself if I wasn't planning on putting 15+ hours of design in just to ensure reliability and safety, as well as another couple hours of testing and verification, ESPECIALLY if I was giving it to someone else. Improper design can, at worst, cause a serious fire (due to thermal failure or internal short circuiting) or electrocute the user with 110v mains due to improper isolation, and, at best, simply not work properly or destroy the device due to poor power regulation.

All that said, Apple has a unique charge scheme for their devices that require placing voltages on the USB data lines to signal the maximum charge current that the device can take. Most Android (and other) devices are signaled that a dedicated charger is present by shorting the data lines together. Between more nuanced things like this and the safety issues I mentioned earlier, your safest bet is to buy and utilize an off-the-shelf USB adapter.

I suggest you buy an inexpensive charger like this and find a way to work it into the clock. Although the form factor might not be completely ideal for you, your chance of making anything smaller yourself are slim to none. Try to keep the case on it if you can, but if it needs to come off in order to fit, make sure you take it apart carefully (a little hot air and prying always works), and then insulate the entire device from both itself and other things using electrical tape.

Then, plug it in to one of these. You shouldn't be trying to remove the existing metal tabs from the charger (or soldering / attaching bare wires to them, either), so you need a plug. The output of that will then have to go into some quick-connect tabs that will let you crimp in this wire. The other end of that wire will then get cleanly soldered to the safest access point from the 120v going into the clock electronics - after which point the wire needs to be strapped down and strain relieved, then both contact points cleaned and coated in hot glue.

Yeah, it's an ugly hack, but it's the safest thing you're gonna be able to get done - anything else would require a lot of reading and learning to ensure that you aren't going to shock someone or start a fire.

My first reccomendation is for a DIY kit as opposed to a pre-packaged starter kit:

• Joye Ego USB Passthrough
  
  
• A 5 pack of blank Boge 2 ohm cartomizers
  
  
• A 510 low resistance atomizer
  
  
• A tankomizer and a 5 pack of blank tanks (The tanks are at the bottom)
  
  
• A syringe and pipette (for filling cartomizers/tankomizers though Leaford demos some good simple ways to do that here)
  
  
• A plastic or metal 510/901 drip tip
  
  
• At least 30ml of e-liquid. I recommend RY4 or Fennel if you see it though I haven't tried many flavours available only in the American market (edit to add: Recent RY4 liquid doesn't taste as good as it used to. These days I like strawberry and any mint is usually good). I go through approx. 3-5ml a day. I usually get most of mine wholesale from e-lquid.cn in China. I've had bad experiences with liquid that is supposed to replicate tobacco and generally avoid. What I like to do know is buy unflavoured liquid in bulk and mix my own flavours. You can buy concentrated flavours from lots of vendors cheaply.
  
  
• Get a cone for the ego battery too. If you go to this page, at the very bottom the second last item is the cone. excellent for preventing leaks.
  
  These products are also available on their UK site and elsewhere.
  
  With an ego USB passthrough, you can power it off your computer while you're at it and it will be charged when you need to go and use as a normal ego battery. It's very handy for people near a USB connection most of the day. You can get a plug with a usb port and charge it off the mains or a car lighter usb charger and charge it off that.
  
  The low resistance 510 atomizer and tankomizer are optional on the list and can be included if you want to get a good understanding of some of the available types of atomizer initially and figure out which you prefer. They all screw onto any battery with a 510 connection which the Ego USB battery has.
  
  Another optional extra is a USB battery pack like this kensington one. I've seen these for sale in supermarkets now in the battery section quite cheaply but that is the one I own and I know it works with the Ego passthrough. It doesn't work with another passthrough I have from e-cigcity which Liberty flights also sell.
  
  I haven't listed a pack of cartridges (which would fit into the LR atomizer) because they are not listed on that site but most people just start dripping directly into the atomizers from their bottle.
  
  One drawback of going this route is not getting an instruction manual (which come with starter kits) but hopefully it will be self explanatory enough. If confused, ask.
  
  EDIT: A fair bit has changed since I wrote this post and tankmods have become prevalent. Now I would advise getting the same ego passthrough battery, the LR boges and also getting a carto tankmod. There is a list of tankmods here.

With that logic, you probably should stop wearing your seat belt.

Just kidding. The whole point of a dash cam is that you don't really need one, until you REALLY need it because some asshole is trying to commit insurance fraud on you.

To help you bite the bullet, I'd recommend a cheaper dashcam such as this Aukey, which has good quality video and it is discrete. If you want to go even cheaper, this one is probably the cheapest good bang for your buck.

You can relatively easily hardwire it into your car with one of these kits. I put the pruveeo on my mom's car and it works great.

I got this and it’s been perfect. DJI Portable Charger

Anbee Propellers are a good alternative to DJI’s

A take off/landing pad is good for dusty or sandy locations

Controller phone mount is nice to have for phones with cases

Yes this is very true. I stopped buying cheap chargers on eBay as they were clearly fibbing about their maximum current. If you read the XDA accessories forum you'll fine even many branded chargers don't tell the truth.

If you want to be sure you either need to buy the phone's official genuine charger, or I would recommend Amazon's basic 2.1A charger which will charge anything you can throw at it, including pads.

UK http://www.amazon.co.uk/electronics/dp/B008VQOOD4

US http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wall-Charger-Outlet-Output/dp/B005CG2ATQ/

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Not sure if you found the information you needed, but hopefully some of this helps:

The model number for the blank is 55539-28160-C0

There are some pre-made USB ports that say they fit Toyotas. I am not sure if those are the same size, but I would assume they are.

Maybe something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Charger-Toyota-Stereo-Connector/dp/B013W8LQ7C

Most of us here are likely more weekly travelers, not long term travelers like it sounds like you are. That said, get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Monster-Outlets-Go-USB/dp/B008MF40F6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1523587350&sr=8-7&keywords=Monster+power

Both outlets full at an airport? Ask nice and both folks will plug into your splitter and now you have three with room for you, plus two USB. It also works at 220V for international travel.

Find a good battery recharger also. Doesn’t need to be solar.

If you’re worried about monitors, why not grab a pocket/mini sized projector and just project against the hotel wall? They’re not expensive.

interesting idea. I am however, very reluctant to ever leave my phone anywhere but my own house or pocket regardless of how secure i think it might be.

I've had one of these for years and bring it with me on vacations/city trips/train rides etc. and it's never failed to give me that little extra boost of juice late at night before i can get back to my hotel room.

These do exist. I have a Kensington one in my drawer at home. Check on Amazon, mine is a UK plug but I'm sure US ones exist too. :)

Edit: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001G5Z8Q4

Agreed, I should have specified a charger/tester/maintainer. I use one of these for my GF's bike and one model up for mine (or vice versa, whichever is handier) http://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUA1200901-Smart-Battery-Charger/dp/B000GZL29M

It's not as good as a real pro tester but gives you a good enough indication that I feel ok with it.

If you go the power bank route, pick a unit which supports charging via Quick Charge 2.0 like this one (requires a compatible charger like this one, or the charger that comes with the Motorola Droid or other modern phones).

Charge time shortens from 8+ hours to maybe 2. Lithium batteries are also much lighter than lead-acid, even with the 5V regulation circuitry you'll find in a USB power bank.

To get the Watt-hourage of a power bank, multiply its amp-hours by 3.7V (nominal voltage of a lithium cell) -- so a 10,000mAh bank would have 37Wh of energy. A similarly-sized lead-acid battery would be around 5-7Ah (× 6V = 30-42Wh) and weigh considerably more.

EDIT: I just read that your equipment is a sound meter, so consider whether a switch-mode power supply would introduce electrical noise that could interfere with your sound meter. If that's the case, a linear regulator with a large heatsink might be the way to go -- or you could just use 4x rechargeable AA NiMH cells (the Low Self-Discharge type, of course), which won't require regulation, so long as the device works down to 4.8V (NiMH cells have a nominal voltage of 1.2V).

If you buy something in the 2.1A range, it will charge really quick, definately under two hours. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wall-Charger-Outlet-Output/dp/B005CG2ATQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376668469&sr=8-1&keywords=2.1+amp+usb+charger

I have a 2.1A charger in my car and I can watch the minutes tick by and I get about 1% battery per minute. It's awesome.

I have my Pi2 running off of this:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wall-Charger-Outlet-Output/dp/B005CG2ATQ/

I have a bunch of microUSB cables laying around. So it was a perfect fit.

So, I have one of these and it works well but I've only had it since December.

I bought this kit to hook it into my fuse panel. Works great.

My only complaint is that the settings don't stick all of the time and the company's response was to send me a second one (which they let me keep the first) and when that did the same they just told me to "use the default settings."

I didn't but it still works :P

Can you compare something like a Belkin or like a Samsung one?
As long as its 1A at 5V, it shouldnt matter right?

If you are just looking to charge your phone or whatever, 12-24v to 5v USB adapters are a thing.

You just have to get something like that and a plug that fits your socket. Then mash it together with some solder and you are good to go.

Hi there! Understanding you are not the guy in the video, there is a lot wrong here.

He is scavenging the connector from a cheap charger my cutting away the power source. These connectors are available from a source like Mouser for pennies. He's wasting a working charger there.

He is combining multiple small solar cells into a bank of cells and wiring it to the cord. Most sources such as mouser can provide a cell already soldered and wired for almost the same price.

His final fan design results in covering a significan portion of each cell. He is not getting nearly as much voltage as he could from the array.

Solar cells have a naturaly varying voltage depending on light conditions. Without a regulator, He could be running anything from 0 to 12v directly into his phone. The charging circuit inside will prevent the batteries from overcharging, but running 12v say into a socket designed for 3.3v will burn something out eventualy. He needs to run the output of the cells into a board with some caps and a 7805 regulator at least. You will get a small drain from the regulator circuit, but it won't blow out your phone. And before anyone says it, yes some phones can handle the varying voltage just fine, but I'm not going to count on it.

Or you could take 5 minutes and order one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/Sunpak-SC-800-Solar-Battery-Charger/dp/B003DS7P0E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1345997225&sr=8-4&keywords=solar+phone+charger

EDIT:spelling

I bought a Nexar Dash Cam and this wiring kit. Install took about 15-20 minutes by myself with very simple tools. Very happy with it so far.

http://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wall-Charger-Outlet-Output/dp/B005CG2ATQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1407210025&sr=1-3&keywords=2amp+charger

This or any well reviewed 2amp charger. Also make sure you have a decent cable, some will limit the charge speed.

My Nexus 6 is charging right now on the LG WCP-700 Qi charger that I bought a couple years ago.

My guess is the coil is about where the "u" is in "nexus" which lines up perfectly with the coil in the pad. The Nexus 6 is about the size of the entire pad.

I'm surprised to hear about Qi compatibility problems people are having. I've only ever had the WCP-700 and it has worked with everything.

I really like the Amazon Basics 2.1 A charger. It is 10USD and free shipping if you know someone with Amazon Prime. There are other options but this charger is the only one I can get to wake my Nexus 7 after it fully drains and doesn't have enough power to post into the charging mode.

No one end is the port that will fit into the gamepad and the other is just USB. So it will fit into any usb port

http://www.amazon.com/Tomee-Wii-U-Charge-GamePad-Nintendo/dp/B00ARMQ7VM

so if I use that I can plug it into this

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wall-Charger-Outlet-Output/dp/B005CG2ATQ/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1463168624&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=2+amp+cell+phone+charger+amazon

My thinking is that many cellphones use a 1500mh battery that's the same capacity as the gamepad and since cell phones can use a 2amp charge I though the game pad could also

This is Adafruit's Minty Boost.

You can buy the supplies for one either from Adafruit or from pretty much any other "maker" website. There are even a few on Amazon. A LifeHacker article from 2012 shows you how to boost the power a little bit. Thinkgeek used to sell kits a few years ago, but has since stopped.

Edit: OP's version uses a much more powerful battery, but for simple USB charging, that's probably not super important.

This will work well for you needs..

The stock Kindle charger isn't much more expensive, and is built better than most aftermarket stuff.

A powered USB hub will not only power your PI, but you can multi-purpose it to power the PI, it's accessories, and connect them to the PI. This is how mine it set up.

Could you link the monoprice page for the cable you bought?

Edit: Like this one?

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wall-Charger-Outlet-Output/dp/B005CG2ATQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370308680&sr=8-1&keywords=2+amp+usb

Line out has no volume control.

You might try this:

http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/UFO202.aspx

It will require USB for power.

You may be able to use something like this for power:

http://www.amazon.com/AC-USB-Power-Supply-Perfect/dp/B000RWJ19C



You could also get something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harmon-Kardon-PT-2300-Preamplifier-tuner-w-front-panel-subwoofer-level-control-/190888256204?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item2c71d3a2cc

https://www.amazon.co.uk/XCSOURE-KiDiGi-Type-C-Charger-BC517/dp/B019W0J5YU
Someone needs to try out one of these docks and see what they are like

It's a battery charger/maintainer that was recommend by my LBS.
http://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUA1200901-Smart-Battery-Charger/dp/B000GZL29M

Search Amazon, many battery options for Echo.

Amazon Alexa Echo Portable External Battery Pack, Echo Battery Supply 10080 mAh Alexa Echo Battery Portable Base with USB for charging other devices, P070 Black by EagleTec (1st Echo Generation only) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYBPTTT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_As64AbD1PF19Z

This wall charger and this longer usb cable is what I saw recommended as a replacement charger with a longer cord. (Cord is currently out of stock).

Makes me wonder why they didn't just put these on to begin with, and then change the 700mA recommendation to 1100mA. Maybe in Version C (if they plan on making such a thing)

Probably going to try this when I get home. You think using it with one of these is going to create any issues?

I got this supply from Amazon, and it fixed the issue (along with the config suggested by /u/octobod).

I don't see why it wouldn't work.

If you wanted cheaper, You could get an Amazon basic one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CG2ATQ/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G5Z8Q4

...please try again

The one I have is a rectangle. I think they were switching to pushing the round one at the time so I got a deal on it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DMBSVA/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

AmazonBasics Wall Charger with USB Outlet (2.1 Amp Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CG2ATQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_CIH9tb0EBMWAV

List of what is on the desk... printer, receiver, headphones, wireless charging pad, wii remote + IR receiver, router, LED controller, wireless mouse, earbuds, tablet, hub, 4TB external HDD, headset, xbox controller, PS3 controller, computer

I bought this one for a two-week trip and it worked great.

The difference between the two wall adapters featured is, according to the OP, that the Apple one has a more reliable output and wastes less electricity.

That said, I do take issue with the title, which claims "MOST" when the (current) album only shows one comparison. It also risks confusion, as many readers may take it to mean that only Apple-branded chargers are reliable, when there are other third-party brands (e.g. Amazon Basics, Monoprice) that are well-made and more reasonably priced.

See, for example, the link that /u/saurik posted above:
[Ken Shirriff's blog] A dozen USB chargers in the lab: Apple is very good, but not quite the best
(which also mentions the potential hazards of some counterfeit chargers)

However, OP apparently plans to buy and test more chargers, so that's good.

Yep exactly, though you should get this http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wall-Charger-Outlet-Output/dp/B005CG2ATQ/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_y with it unless you already have something to plug it into. If you've been charging your mvp with a computer, you're in for a shock (ha ha) at how much faster it charges...

Wow. I thought your math didn't check out so I did the work... I was gonna call you out, but you're absolutely correct. I had no idea DC in those tiny cables was so lossy. And I should know better...

Here's the work:
USB 2.0 standard is 5V +/- .25V @ 500mA max. (Source: USB@Wikipedia)

The Chromecast power adapter outputs 5.1V @ 850mA. (Source: Image)

So lets assume that the Chromecast follows USB standard. At max draw it'd need to have 4.75V @ 500mA when starting with 5.1V @ 850mA.

Internet maths means that comes to a little under 13.5 ft of 24awg usb cable to stay within USB spec. Although if the Chromecast uses LESS than 500mA, then the cable could be longer (or larger wires in the USB, etc...) (Source: Voltage Drop Calculator)

edit: my electrical knowledge is dropping off here... what happens if you start with a higher amperage source? Like 5V @ 2.1A?

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Wireless-Charger-Qe-tm101-k-100-240v/dp/B0051R4ECM

http://www.amazon.com/LG-WCP-700-Portable-Office-Charging/dp/B005DMBSVA

http://www.amazon.com/LG-Optimus-Wireless-Charger-certificate/dp/B00C2O9TAO

http://www.amazon.com/Qi-Enabled-Single-Position-Wireless-Charger-Samsung/dp/B00BHSDEDO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_cps_5

These all work perfectly...including trickle charging to keep phone charged over night. I know this because I either have or use all these charging pads frequently. Some of these can be found other places than were I linked for way cheaper. I think Verizon sells the lg one for $30

When you get the pogo cable, it's only the cable. Pogo at one end, standard usb on the other--it's designed to use the existing factory power adapter. According to them it apparently charges 25% faster, but I've never actually tested it. Mine is always charged up in the morning, or has significantly more juice after throwing it the charger for a bit. I like it mostly for the ease of use, just get the plug close and the magnets suck the cable on correctly--easy to do in the dark.

You'll need this:
http://www.amazon.com/MagNector-N10-Nexus-Pogo-Cable/dp/B00B2166BS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1414099145&sr=8-5

and something like this to replace your broken power adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wall-Charger-Outlet-Output/dp/B005CG2ATQ/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1414099410&sr=8-11 Doesn't work with pogo cable according to reviews. Cannot find the factory power adapter for some reason.

Another alternative, for $3 more, is: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CG2ATQ
It works with my G3, and is 2.1A instead of the 1.8A for the one below. I don't know if the G3 pulls anything like that, and so maybe they charge at the same speed. Both have folding prongs. The Blackberry one has a built-in 6' cord,which is great unless it fails. The Amazon one requires you to plug in your own cord, but then you can replace the cord, or use a different size when that's convenient. Instead of an ugly RIM logo, the Amazon one has an ugly Amazon logo. Oh, yeah, it has a pilot light, too (!).

a 2 amp charger would help. I think you should try that. I was told it can fix almost any situation where a device won't charge. I had that tablet sitting in a computer's USB port for 3 days, then 4 hours in the 2 amp charger and it's charged 3/4ths and turning on again. here's one by Amazon Basics that isn't terribly expensive. it should work. but even if this doesn't fix the problem, what's the harm in having a spare charger? 2 amp really makes a difference, as my example proved.

I'm using this battery charger:

https://www.amazon.ca/Yuasa-YUA1200901-Smart-Battery-Charger/dp/B000GZL29M

I'm not installing a new battery at the moment. Just charging it and then will be checking it with the multimeter and doing a load test when it is fully charged.

And turning it in the lock handlebars position will not make the batter run right? But turning it into the "P" position will drain the battery? It's my first bike so I have very limited knowledge.