Reddit mentions: The best multiconductor cables

Wow.. this is easily the longest reply I have ever gotten. I have replied much longer before but yeah.. Not complaining at all thanks for taking the time to write it. I will reply as I read through.

Wiring for me I have never been all that hesitant to. I have been hit with 120 a few times and it's mainly a burn for me. The one that really surprised me though was taking apart a blender and well I had shorts on and you can touch one wire and be fine just not both unless you and the wiring are grounded of course. Anyway I was on my bed and one wire was touching my leg and the other I grabbed with my hand... So that was an interesting experience.

I am the type that will take one of those cigarette lighters that electric spark? take off the guard, put your thumb over it and go... clicky clicky...

As for the JST bit I appreciate the links. I am familiar with them and how to do that I just never have. I would need a reason to get them, maybe this is it? But the wago or other lever type connectors seem to be easier and or cheaper. I will figure it out when it gets here.

> personally I mangled the connector housings and pins on my stepper cables trying to swap pins over.

Yeah I think you need the pin remover. I was watching a few youtube videos about it, and well here I believe is the one I watched. Relevant portion is at the 7:05 mark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhU0D7fDR98 It's called an extraction tool, or extractor. There are quite a few different ones for different applications. If I got into solderless pin connections that's one of the things I would buy.

So for me going that kind of connector route would be about 10 or so for the extractor, 20 for the crimper, maybe 10 or so for the connectors. But let's say it was just 30 or so total. Ok... or I could go with the wago lever connectors for 15 and could splice 50 sets of wires that could be undone with a flick of a lever. It's not as nice looking as a connector but it's still doable. Also knowing me, I'd still throw some heat shrink tubing onto the crimped pins. But I already have that and a heat gun.

>Building a cat proof mdf enclosure for the printer so I can take it home within the next month or so is on the cards.

I plan on copying the corner bracing and modifying those. Well I want to replace all the melamine parts eventually but yeah. The idea would be to modify those in a way I could easily attach side and top panels. Likely something like 1/4" plexi glass. I don't like how the socket caps stick out, so I would use countersunk screws to make the screw head flush with the printed brace. Then either on the back side hollow out a section for a neodymium magnet for each corner and do the same for the plexiglass, or maybe thumbscrews? Or possibly just make it so it's like the side of a PC case where it slides in and out The top would likely be semi permanent and attached with screws but the sides would be like just slide the panel up and take it off that way. The front maybe the same way or use hinges or whatever. I don't think I will print any ABS I hear enclosures could help with that. My main reason for doing it is dust. Dust I hear can mess up prints so keeping it enclosed may help with the quality.

For me an MDF enclosure would be really easy to do, I may do that as a frame then attach plexi to the outside and just have a box that goes over it? but that to me seems like cheating and or wasted space... also no challenge. I like challenging myself so unless I absolutely need it and I can't figure out the other bit then maybe? But what I have in mind should be relatively easy to do.

About the router stand... Looks good, but I must admit when I read "router", I thought of like an actual router well the woodworking kind.

The CTC-3D clone? or? I haven't looked into those so I am not very familiar. I am mainly interested in kits not fully working right out of the box... and you answered that later in the post... nice.

The fan bit. I plan on tinkering around a lot with that well the shroud bit. I have thought of an experiment to try to test out which ones are better, and I will throw in different speeds, different nozzles as well and document the process. I will take a few that others have designed, and design some of my own to see how they differ in performance. The test will be of multiple prints of a similar object, essentially 2 poles at varying distances, like half an inch up to say 3 to 5 inches or however long to see how far each can bridge the gap with little to no sagging. Then maybe ledges at varying lengths.

As for the V6 clone bit. I already bought one of these J-Head V6 Bowden and an MK8 Bowden feeder. I primarily got those to see if I like the bowden setup over the direct. If I find out I like the direct I will probably get this. If I like the bowden bit I think I could still get that one and just change out the heat sink and use the other bits. Either or fun times ahead.

>Or even the new e3d aero if you don't want v6 style eating into your build height.

If I need more build height, I can just get some longer rods, and some longer 2020's and extend it out. My main thing is I wanted 12"^2, since this is like 15.75" unless it takes 3.75" more of build height away I don't think I will fret too much.

>Definitely use the stock for a few months

A few months is an eternity for me. Maybe it will take that long to get built and dialed in? Who knows... Either or... the plan is to get the printer from kit form built and working and at least functional with prints. The only "change" will likely be with a 12x12 glass or mirror bed. Once it's up and running and I have a base to work from that I know works. Then I will change it over to bowden with the ones I linked and try that out for a while. Then decide whether I want to get the e3d one or not. The only reason I'd get the e3d one is the socks which I could buy seperate and the hotend tube. If I could find that bit seperate I probably wouldn't buy the complete kit. I know I can buy the "clone" version but the teflon tube is used as a liner and I'd like it to potentially be able to get up to around 300c without worrying about that liner melting. I also plan on getting some stainless nozzles and maybe... just maybe one of the tungsten ones. Not necessarily to use with this printer but likely the one that I design and build after this one. Think multiple independent extruders(not sharing the same block), and large... er build volume. I won't get too much into that idea right now though.

>I'd say the z axis rods are the one part of this built machine that is a little more difficult to access/disassemble easily

Yeah I'd say that looks fair. But that's also one of the selling points for me. That design looks rock solid. Even with the shitty melamine. I think once you get the binding figured out on the Z and have an idea how to do it regularly it will become less and less of a pain. As for the threaded and smooth rods, and only the threaded need to be somewhat loose? I heard it was pretty much all of them until it was aligned properly. Try loosening all of them up a little bit. Running it to the top and bottom then go to the top, tighten things down then down to the bottom then tighten. That should resolve any binding. From my understanding at least. It doesn't seem like you have tried that approach yet.

>TBH the melamine parts aren't that terrible.

Well for me I am not hugely against it but yeah. They work just not for my liking. I was initially hoping they would be actual solid melamine. But it looks like it is actually a melamine coating on top of low quality mdf. If it was actual melamine it would be a lot harder and wouldn't crush that easily. Actual melamine is a lot closer to a plastic than what that appears to be. Here in the states at least melamine is commonly put over particle board for counter tops. It's good so long as you don't get water on the edges as it will eventually swell.

As for the bracing... I assume you have home improvement stores there? If so try to find some of these if you don't want to print out new ones. Just figure out the dimensions you want with those flat corner braces and use those. You may need slightly smaller M5's but those are pretty cheap as well. Or if you have a grinder... you could knock a few MM off the ones you have.

>standard board will do the job just fine. The lure of touch/colour screens for 32 bit SBase boards isn't really for me.

I don't think I will go the touch screen route designed for these, If I go that route I will likely add wifi capability, and add a small tablet with browser functionality ;)... The reason for me, for 32 bit is 1/128 stepping, as well as quieter motors, and can be more complex without the program stuttering due to not being able to keep up with the needed calculations. With that I plan on trying to see the maximum print speed I can get and still get decent quality. Just to give you an idea. I plan on bolting it down to a heavy surface due to the inertia of the motors going side to side to keep it rock solid, that may give you an idea on how fast I am planning on cranking this or the next one up to, and yes I know I will likely need better motors and or stronger drivers and crank up the current. Maybe even a stouter belt system? Enclosed chain perhaps? Or longitudinal setup like this? http://www.technicopedia.com/8094/8094-2longitudinal.jpg, well without the extra bits.

As for the USB bit I am going to tinker around with that and SD card, I have a spare laptop I don't really use I can use for that purpose.

> No Way! I also have a 2011 Honda CRZ EX. I'm installing a Kenwood DDX0703S next week so maybe you can help me avoid some headaches with the install.

Happy to help however I can. crzforum.com is also an AMAZING resource; about the best on the internet for CRZ info.

> The Metra 70-1730 Wire Harness I bought seems to have a subwoffer RCA but the instructions say not to use it even though my CRZ has a factory sub. Do I really not need to hook up the sub RCA?

Correct. The CRZ's sub is wired into the rear channel. The front channel is two speakers and two tweeters, the rear is two speakers and the sub.

> I bought a Maestro ADS-MSW for my steering wheel controls. What does the RR give you over the ADS-MSW? Just gauge information?

Just gauges AFAIK.

> The Maestro instructions say I need to splice into a green wire connected to the bluetooth HFL module behind my glovebox in order to use my steering wheel call and end call buttons. Did you do that? If so how difficult was it?

Yes. Very easy. You need to remove the panel under the glove box. It has clips at the top and tabs sit in slots at the back. Disconnect the floor light and put it aside. The HFL is between the passenger footwell and the outer shell of the car, toward the glove box. Disconnect the harness and tap the green wire. I'm using these for all the taps I did in the car. They are VERY easy, solderless and making great connections. Can't recommend them enough.

Also, make sure you have a dumb little grabber tool, like this. I bought mine at Home Depot for $2 while getting butt connectors and it made routing the wire for the HFL a breeze.

>Where did you place the Kenwood microphone in your CRZ?

If you look at the picture, you can see the Kenwood mic below my radio. The factory mic cannot be reused without great effort, and if you do wire it up it has no noise cancelling and sounds like shit. So don't.

You'll also notice a USB plug dangling down at the factory location. The factory USB can't be reused, and I didn't want to have the Kenwood USB line that is hard wired to the unit fished through anything, so here's what I did: I pulled the factory USB cable and its little grommet into the dash and zip tied it off so it doesn't bang around. Then, I ran a 3' Monoprice USB male/female extender cable through the hole the factory USB goes through and zip tied it secure inside the dash. This way, if it ever wears out I replace a $2 cable and not my $500 radio. This also has the benefit of making installation/removal of the radio really easy, which is already coming in handy as I prep to install a backup camera.

>How did you do the wiring? I've never soldered anything before and am thinking about buying some Posi-Twists and Posi-Taps to do all of this.

Positwists and taps are AWESOME, but they're also expensive. I'd recommend you pick up some 20 awg butt connectors or crimp caps (whichever) and a wire stripper/crimper tool just because they're cheap.

Here's what I did: I wired up my radio harness and anything else that was fairly mobile with butt connectors at my desk, making sure to tape off any wires I wasn't using so they were out of my way. Then, I saved my Posi connectors for the connections that HAVE to be made in the car (OBD2, the HFL cable, the ground wires)

>About the DDX9702S: How responsive is the touchscreen? I'm weary about the resistive screen but couldn't justify the $200+ to upgrade to the DDX9903S with capacitive screen.

It's great. It's obviously not a cap touch screen, but it's also not a Palm Pilot. It's responsive enough, precise enough, and all around "good enough" that I wouldn't spend the extra $200 either.

One more tip: When you're wiring this up, wire the parking brake sensor wire into your grounds. Do that and you can watch video while driving.

The biggest current issue with push-in connections is that they're only on the cheapest of devices. This means that homeowners will buy and attempt to install these devices incorrectly. Like 12AWG wire in a 14AWG push-in. Or not properly stripping and terminating the connection on a push in.

There are some great push-in connectors that are used on the market, like the Ideal In-Sure or the more common Wago connector.

The link you reference is for push-in connectors, not push-in connections on devices.

EDIT: I wanted to add, there are even better and faster connectors than the Wago/Ideal push-in connectors. The Wago Lever-nuts are amazing.

Also want to distinguish between push-in connections and push-in connectors (as far as the trade slang goes in my area, every area is different). Push-in connections will be on a device, like a receptacle or switch. Push-in connectors are those like that of Wago or Ideal. Separate from the device.

I apologize for being sloppy with my terminology during this discussion. I know I've interchanged connectors and connections where I shouldn't have.

There is no local place that I have found that sells the top quality stuff. I do macbook logicboard Repair’s. Phones and random crap as well. Microsoldering etc. Amazon is where I typically grab parts. Or if you wanna help out an awesome guy that has countless YouTube videos on repairing MacBooks http://store.rossmanngroup.com to buy like me the quick hot air station. Here’s a wire I use very very thin great for jumping bad vias

Remington Industries 44SNSP.125 Magnet Wire, Enameled Copper Wire Wound, 44 AWG, 2 oz, 9975' Length, 0.0022" Diameter, Natural https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CB54ZR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NpvDDbAFK1ZHD

Great solder station. And then buy the micro pencil

Hakko Soldering Station, FX-951-66 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012B8NW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OfvDDb1QAAF78

>I'm fairly ignorant of electric systems on boats.


I hope you're comfortable with how basic 12VDC electrics work and are asking about how to wire them in a marine environment.


Preface, I'm not a certified marine electrician but I've done a ton of work re-wiring, custom work on all kinds of sail and power boats.


Tools:
>I do have a cheap harbor freight multi-meter

good, now you're going to need a way to crimp those shitty connectors and some dielectric grease.


Unless of course you want to solder all your connections (this is my preference as it doesn't vibrate loose or corrode as quickly), then follow NASA's soldering method s and yuu'll need some rosin cored solder and and a soldering iron, you'll also need to use a crimp connector without the pre-molded shrink wrap and some heat shrink tubing


Ok... got your tools? great, now for supplies.


You'll need a buss bar on your ground


Measure how much wire you need, (are you re-wiring the mast?) and use 14/2 AWG marine grade wire.


If you're only using 1 battery you can get away with a simple switch like this. From the devices & lights you listed It sounds like you can use 10AWG to connect your battery to your switch then to the 14 gang panel.


You'll need a way to label your wires, I use one of these but if you're doing one job you might want to use something cheaper.

Ok... now on the to the fun part


Plan where you're going to mount your panel and pull a single RED 10AWG from there to your battery shut off switch and another strand from you battery to the switch.


Pull 10 AWG from the battery to the buss bar.


pull all the 14awg from the lights to the panel labeling each 14/2 wire as you go


red goes to the fuse block, black goes to the buss bar then to the negative on the gang block, label everything at the connection points, big red wire goes from battery switch to the bolt on the 14 gang, big black wire goes to the buss bar.


install new things, as each device is hooked up test the fuse and switch, then install the new thing.

Edit: I forgot to mention, use dielectric grease on all metal fittings to reduce corrosion.


edit 1: put a fuse between your battery and shut off ont the red wire

I'm using Cree CXB 2540's @ 3000K since i wanted better distribution and thought 3590's would be overkill (what people typically go with). Used a heatsink like this to mount each LED (with Ideal chip-lok holder, tapped two holes at 3mm and used some thermal paste) and then just wired them up to a driver using some wago connectors.

Hope that helps :)

Which is fine and will not do anything as it is low current, but at a minimum use electrical tape. There are other more elegant methods for splicing wire, especially if this is for a more permanent project.

https://www.google.com/search?q=electrical+tape&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb&client=safari

More automotive
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/623984457746271647?q=cable+splicing&client=safari&sa=X&hl=en-gb&biw=375&bih=635&tbs=vw:l,ss:44&prmd=ivsn&prds=epd:7823994953863952130,paur:ClkAsKraX1mene0YGyTxx58RAGbiwUnKoGucAcmGYhntkT48SNcUDhn7FohnR-Sq6Ow_YtxpigxBycUlgDuO1ffryHIbBYLEpOdp5kPAXcQPFDaaEWai79bKbxIZAFPVH7111uVAG5ELq5m8nBs1HJDo2Y_BhQ,cdl:1,prmr:1,cs:1&ved=0ahUKEwiZqILkhcreAhUDrYMKHX8bDUYQgTYIxQQ


These are more permanent style, scroll down they have a few different styles.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B07CNKLZPQ

Using a bread board is also a good method for short term testing.

https://www.google.com/search?q=breadboard+kit&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb&client=safari

Sure, so if you aren't concerned about looks and you just want to get one type of wire and conserve cost I'd recommend this

If you want to match something similar to what I've done here, I used this for the leads and this for the columns. If you decide to go with the tiny wire I used, you are going to want to make sure you have a set of wire strippers that is designed to work with 30 AWG wire like these

This is the stuff I use for electromagnets and motor repairs.

https://www.remingtonindustries.com/magnet-wire/magnet-wire-24-awg-enameled-copper-8-spool-sizes/

I usually order direct, but you can get it on amazon as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Remington-Industries-24SNSP-Enameled-Diameter/dp/B007OYG9HS

You'll need a smaller gauge of course.

Remington is usually pretty good, but there are a handful of sellers on amazon that'll ship you damaged spools or knockoffs. (and even direct order, we have gotten a few bad spools. We've had no issue with returns so far.)

When I do need to order through amazon, I usually stick to "fulfilled by amazon" sellers, so that I can return it or get a refund in a reasonable amount of time.

Not exactly cheap, but Wago lever-nuts work great for stranded and solid.

https://www.amazon.com/222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Compact-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66

Extending the cables to the left/right speakers is easy, any regular speaker wire is fine. To join together permanently I'd solder the new wire on and heatshrink. Or for removable I'd use spring connectors like this https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503640678&sr=8-1&keywords=wago+connector

i've had this problem many times.

its almost certainly that your wires are making intermittent contact. i've had to replace my bed sensor wiring and power wiring about 4 times.

once however my actual temp sensor cracked in half and i had to replace it with a 100k thermistor.

https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-Thermistor-Temperature-Sensor-Printer/dp/B018QL5LPI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481397650&sr=8-4&keywords=100k+thermistor
here are the thermistors and as for the wiring, if thats what it turns out to be(most likely is)

sensor wiring
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01708AYYQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

power wiring
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TG1TRL2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i also recommend using https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481397789&sr=8-5&keywords=wago+connector

for the wiring inside the unit, so that your wiring can be replaced easily without buying a new wiring harness.

Recently finished building some cables for my newly renovated cinema room and wanted to share the process with you guys in case anyone was looking for a super simple (but still high quality) cable build on the cheap.

[EDIT] Here's a link to the various parts used in this build:

• Mediabridge 14/2 Direct Burial CCA wire
  
• Techflex 3/8 inch Nylon Multi-Filament sleeving
  
• Monoprice Affinity Series banana plugs
  
• Parts Express 8mm 2-conductor cable pants
  
  Keep in mind, if you are using different speaker wire, sizes needed for some of these parts are likely going to be slightly different.
  
  Additional tools that will make things easier:
  
  
• Single-action wire stripper (traditional works too)
  
• Electrician shears or hot knife (for cutting nylon sleeving)
  
• Heat gun (for shrink wrap)

so these wires to replace that melted white one and these wire nuts are fine for that outlet in my pictures right?


If I should be buying anything different or something better please let me know

Check out this site. There's a good photo illustration of the right way to safely connect stranded and non-stranded wires.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/wiring/how-to-make-safe-wire-nut-connections/view-all/

Or just buy some wago connectors: https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66/

Very nice, clean look. All it needs are some cable pants to finish the look.
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Cable-Pants-2-Conductor/dp/B0009XQPFC

I highly recommend you just read through this page on powering single COB led lights. Even if you have only a little bit of technical know how you can do it. Then build a light using this LED, bought with a discount code, Growmau5. Then mount it to this if you don't have a way to drill and tap this instead.

^If ^you ^go ^with ^the ^drilling ^and ^tapping ^you'll ^need ^an ^old ^cell ^phone ^charger ^to ^power ^the ^fan, ^but ^it's ^more ^compact.

That LED can be powered by this driver at about 2800mA for a nice 100 watt light under 100$.

Edit: Oh and an old power cord and these to put it all together.

China.

Via Amazon.

I only use them for breadboarding, for permanent installations I use 26 awg stranded that I can pick up for super cheap at All Electronics (available in 25, 50 and 100 ft rolls.) Then I twist them together using this trick.

Besides All Electronics, Amazon has you covered here, too.

Thanks, the round nosed pliers make a big difference. I used these for this project. I like the solid core because you can bend it into position with the round nosed pliers and it stays put.

Hard to tell scale but it looks like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/CONNECTOR-3-PIN-FEMALE-PH-STYLE-30CM-HOUSING/dp/B00B887HWW

Honestly, that's sort of my biggest hangup. I don't even own a soldering iron, and if I get one, I'll need to practice on junk electronics before I try to do something I can use. I do have a bunch of these though.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=lp_16347583011_1_1?srs=16347583011&ie=UTF8&qid=1499343102&sr=8-1

I don't use them for the same reasons you've stated. I prefer using the regular wire nuts, I've seen these and they look similar but more secure and maybe smaller than a large wire nut.

For general hookup you want like 28AWG stranded wire.

You can get some here:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N51OU0W/

or

https://www.pololu.com/search/compare?products=2610%2C2612%2C2614%2C2615%2C2616%2C2619

For the actual motor wires and power you will need a bigger gauge.

Lockitt POSI-TAP 6 pack wire connectors 20-22 awg https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MPW54G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NrBExbRF1T086


If that's too invasive you could put a Hall effect sensor around a wire and a microcontroller to monitor a change in current draw. Seems like more work than needed though.

https://www.amazon.com/Remington-Industries-38SNSP-125-Enameled-Diameter/dp/B076CB53XL/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541044787&sr=8-4&keywords=38+awg&dpID=41XTCZcrocL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

The Amazon review says it all!

Is the audio jack of your PC loose? Can if you keep the plug steady, while bending only the cable, do you notice the explained issue? If so it's a broken cable. The cheapest fix would be to get another plug (better cable+plug), cut the old cable and attach the other end to it. If you don't want to do any soldering, something like this would be the easiest way to connect the wires.

I used a POSI-TAP and would highly recommend it. Seriously takes a couple minutes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MPW54G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Search for “UL1007” 16 AWG stranded hook-up wire. Here’s one example. If you look around, you should be able to find a different color (shouldn’t make a difference though).

Get some red and black 16/2 wire and some wago lever connectors

Wire
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RRPFL3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mQt4DbBHM3DS3

Wagos https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CNKLZPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KRt4Db5C91AA5

Add some heat shrink to where the wire and banana plug meet, or if ya wanna splurge get one of those wire pants just an idea, food for thought, if you will...

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66

How about Wagos?

You can hook up your trailer wiring to the 12v output under the rear seat (many threads in Tesla forums about connecting to this for aftermarket sound systems). I used POSI-TAP connectors to tap into the tail light wiring (see https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MPW54G ). The tail light wire colors are as follows:
Passenger side: red=turn, yellow=lights, grey=brakes
Driver side: purple=turn, pink=lights, grey=brakes


This is the specific wiring kit that I used for my car https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tekonsha/119190KIT.html

Not very likely you are going to find a premade "Y" pigtail connector to parallel 2 sets.

Probably going to have to cut and splice the wires. These are Ni-Mh, so no worry about balancing and over discharging as would be the case with Li-Ion batteries.

Splices

Check out “lever nuts” you’d have to use 4 2pin nuts.

Wago 222-413 LEVER-NUTS 3 Conductor Compact Connectors 10 PK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CN59ZX3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cBWWDbT1NKSZC

Well shit. Does FireStik offer the stud I do need with the connectors? I'm looking for the part number now. I believe this is it.

Nice shelves. Wiring is no more scary than a circular saw. Also, forgo the wirenuts and use lever locks instead. http://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395775496

USB-A


Mini-USB


Micro-USB


USB-B


USB Pinout & wire guage v length


550 Paracord will work, but i suggest 750 for this because the wire sucks to push through 550.


Wire


That all should do ya nicely... let me know if you need anything else