Reddit mentions: The best musical instruments

We found 28,630 Reddit comments discussing the best musical instruments. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 9,230 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

2. Behringer U-Control UCA202 Ultra-Low Latency 2 In/2 Out USB Audio Interface with Digital Output

    Features:
  • 2-channel USB Audio Interface with Optical Out
  • 16-bit/48kHz
Behringer U-Control UCA202 Ultra-Low Latency 2 In/2 Out USB Audio Interface with Digital Output
Specs:
ColorOriginal Version
Height1.37795 Inches
Length7.16534 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateMarch 2008
Weight0.220462262 Pounds
Width5.47243 Inches
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3. NEEWER Adjustable Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand, Max Load 1 KG Compact Mic Stand Made of Durable Steel for Radio Broadcasting Studio, Voice-Over Sound Studio, Stages, and TV Stations

    Features:
  • 【Adjustable Microphone Boom Arm】 Conveniently adjust the angle and height of this mic boom arm to suit your vocal recording need—just loosen the adjustment knob and adjust the boom arm. It’s also easy to fold up and carry. Perfect for stage/studio recording, broadcasting, TV stations, and more
  • 【Stable Arm Support】 With the strong springs and metal positioning screws, the boom arm is compact yet stable enough to support a load of up to 3.3lb/1.5kg. And the springs don’t get in the way of tightening the adjustment knob
  • 【Desk Mounting Clamp】 The desk clamp has rubber padding to protect the desk surface from scratches and scuffs. Compatible with most desks with a desktop thickness of up to 2”/5.3cm
  • 【3/8” to 5/8” Screw Adapter & Mic Clip】 The 3/8” to 5/8” adapter allows you to mount a compatible microphone (like Blue Yeti or Blue Snowball) on the boom arm. It’s not compatible with Blue Yeti Nano which has a 1/4” thread mount. The microphone clip mounts a microphone with a shaft diameter of 1.26”/3.2cm to the boom arm
  • 【Cable Straps & Solid Base】 The five cable straps help organize your microphone cable and make the boom arm look neat. The base connector is solid for durable and reliable holding
NEEWER Adjustable Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand, Max Load 1 KG Compact Mic Stand Made of Durable Steel for Radio Broadcasting Studio, Voice-Over Sound Studio, Stages, and TV Stations
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height2.2 Inches
Length16.3 Inches
Number of items1
Weight1.33125 Pounds
Width4.7 Inches
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7. Blue Snowball USB Microphone (Textured White)

    Features:
  • Legendary Blue broadcast sound: 2-capsule design gives your voice exceptional presence and detail for professional-level recording so you can elevate your YouTube videos, Twitch streaming and more
  • Multiple pickup patterns: The USB microphone features a cardioid pattern for recording and streaming, and omnidirectional which puts you “in the room” for conference calls on Zoom, Skype and more
  • Stylish retro design: Record or stream in style with a classic recording equipment design that looks great on your desktop and on camera; available in 3 bold colors
  • #1 Premium USB microphone brand: Based on independent sales data (April '19 - March '20) of PC microphones in both units and dollars in the US and Canada
  • -10 dB Pad: Maintains professional audio quality and keeps Snowball sounding clean and distortion-free on louder voices and instruments for everything from voiceovers to podcasts to singing
  • Adjustable desktop stand: Allows you to position the condenser microphone in relation to the sound source, improving sound quality and saving space on your desktop for the optimal broadcast setup
  • Blue Sherpa companion app: Fine-tune your sound with deep control of Snowball; manage mic gain, polar patterns and more right from your desktop on Windows or Mac
  • Plug 'n play: Start recording quickly and easily with driver-free operation on your Mac or PC computer or laptop so you can stream gaming, join Zoom meetings and record podcasts right away
Blue Snowball USB Microphone (Textured White)
Specs:
ColorTextured White
Height10 Inches
Length4.875 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateApril 2008
Weight0.000220462262 Pounds
Width7.875 Inches
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11. Zoom ZH1 H1 Handy Portable Digital Recorder (Black)

    Features:
  • No US Warranty
  • Japanese Version
  • Japanese Manual Only
Zoom ZH1 H1 Handy Portable Digital Recorder (Black)
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height1.22 Inches
Length1.75 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateSeptember 2010
Weight0.13 Pounds
Width5.35 Inches
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12. BEHRINGER audio interface (UMC22)

    Features:
  • 2-channel USB Audio Interface with 1 MIDAS Preamp
  • Instrument Input
  • Phantom Power
  • 48kHz
BEHRINGER audio interface (UMC22)
Specs:
Height1.97 Inches
Length6.42 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateJuly 2016
Weight1 Pounds
Width4.92 Inches
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13. Neewer NW-700 Professional Studio Broadcasting Recording Condenser Microphone & NW-35 Adjustable Recording Microphone Suspension Scissor Arm Stand with Shock Mount and Mounting Clamp Kit

    Features:
  • The Set Includes: (1) Condenser Microphone, (1)Adjustable Suspension Scissor Arm Stand, (1)Table Mounting Clamp, (1)Metal Shock Mount, (1)Pop Filter, (1)Ball-type Anti-wind Foam Cap, (1)3.5mm Male to XLR Female Cable. NOTE: Sound Card, 48V Phantom Power, 1/4" to XLR Cable & XLR to XLR Cable are needed to purchase additionally; If you want better sound effect, a sound card should be used; Please use a extra 48V phantom power adapter to connect it (phantom power adapter is not included)
  • The professional condenser microphone adopts the completely new audio circuit. Capture rich, full-bodied sound from sources that are directly in front of the mic. The cardioid pick-up pattern minimizes background noise and isolates the main sound source.
  • The adjustable scissor arm stand is made out of all steel construction, sturdy and durable. Folding type, convenient to carry. Can be mounted on the announcers' table. The double-braced arms add strength. *Max load: Approx 35oz / 1KG*
  • The microphone wind screen pop filter shield can ensure that your tracks are audible and easy to understand.And also it will make sure your message loud and clear, and banish the dreaded hissing and lisping sounds.
  • The metal shock mount features an angle adjustment with locking knob and can effectively reduce handling noise. The ball-type anti-wind foam cap can protect microphone against wind interference and singers' spit.The microphone can not be used with mobile phone and tablet computer. NOTE: It cannot work with Mac.
Neewer NW-700 Professional Studio Broadcasting Recording Condenser Microphone & NW-35 Adjustable Recording Microphone Suspension Scissor Arm Stand with Shock Mount and Mounting Clamp Kit
Specs:
ColorBlack+Black+Black
Height9 Inches
Length6 Inches
Sizem
Weight2.66318412496 Pounds
Width19 Inches
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17. Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 Dynamic Vocal Microphone, Cardioid

    Features:
  • Dynamic Vocal Microphone with Cardioid Pickup Pattern 50Hz-15kHz Frequency Response
Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 Dynamic Vocal Microphone, Cardioid
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height0.63 Inches
Length1.97 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateMarch 2008
Weight0.71 Pounds
Width1.99 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on musical instruments

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where musical instruments are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 946
Number of comments: 493
Relevant subreddits: 6
Total score: 407
Number of comments: 120
Relevant subreddits: 5
Total score: 310
Number of comments: 138
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 280
Number of comments: 173
Relevant subreddits: 6
Total score: 193
Number of comments: 93
Relevant subreddits: 8
Total score: 179
Number of comments: 98
Relevant subreddits: 6
Total score: 167
Number of comments: 103
Relevant subreddits: 5
Total score: 159
Number of comments: 70
Relevant subreddits: 4
Total score: 142
Number of comments: 90
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 112
Number of comments: 77
Relevant subreddits: 3

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Top Reddit comments about Musical Instruments:

u/JohannesVerne · 6 pointsr/VoiceActing

Ok, strap in because there is a lot to cover here! And before I get started, remember that there is rarely one correct way to go about any of this, and everyone will have their own experiences and thoughts, and although different (sometimes very different) that doesn't mean that they aren't both valid.

​

I'm going to get started with the gear, as it's actually one of the easier parts to cover.

You will want your own gear. Studio fees get pretty expensive when you are doing a lot of work, and buying your own gear will pay for itself in the long run. For those starting out (with a low budget) I recommend the MXL V67G, Behringer UM2, XLR cable, pop filter, mic stand, and shock mount. This isn't the only setup,and if you can find used gear you may be able to get even better quality stuff cheaper (or the same price). You will also want to spend some money on sound treatment if you can, but it's easy enough to use a closet or make a blanket-fort if you need to. Just remember, the thicker the material the more effective it will be, and layering works wonders when improvising a booth. I have a furnace on the other side of one wall by my booth, but with a layer of insulation, and three layers of heavy blankets, almost none of that sound reaches the booth (and what does can be cut out with a bass roll-off). Just remember to factor the treatment into your budget when you look for gear. You may be able to use materials you already have, but try to figure it out beforehand.

​

Now, the harder part: Where to actually get started?

The first place to look is voice coaching and acting classes, if you can afford them. Having someone dedicated to helping you grow as a voice actor can make a world of difference. As far as going out and getting jobs though, I do have a bit of advice.

Personally, I would avoid radio. While it can help get you used to he mic, radio announcing typically use their own style of voice that currently is avoided with voice over. Many agents are hesitant about hiring former radio hosts. But, in the end it's the quality of your voice that matters, so going into radio isn't going to kill your career before it can even get started.

There are various ways you can get in, but typically you will start out doing unpaid fan projects and stuff to get practice and experience (not necessarily resume experience, but personal experience with your setup and gear to work out any kinks). This is usually animation/character voice over, and can be pretty fun, especially if that's where you want to end up. Audiobooks are another entryway, as there isn't a huge barrier to cross before getting started. There are also far more books out there to be read that there are narrators reading them. On the other hand, there is a reason for that; it's usually low paying, long hours of recording and editing, and there is rarely much feedback to help you improve your voice.

You can also try and find small, local businesses that are just getting large enough to start advertising, and strike up a conversation with the owners. Get to know them, and their business, and let it be known that you do voice acting. If you do this enough, you will find yourself in the right place at the right time as they need a VO for a radio commercial, and start landing jobs that way. Unfortunately, for this you will need a demo.

​

The Demo:

For finding local work, it's perfectly fine to use homemade demo (so long as it's good). There is a lot that goes into one though, so I'm going to try and break it down.

*SCRIPTS***: You will want to find, at a minimum, five or six commercial scripts, preferably actual commercials and not "stock" practice scripts. Those are fine for getting feedback from other VO talent, but actual scripts work better for a demo. Preferably, find ten or more so that you have options. You will want them to have different tones, different pacing, basically ones that will allow you to show off a wide range in what you can do. The next step is to practice. A lot. And then some more. You want these to be perfect, as they are what people will be listening to when they are deciding to hire you or not. Sub-perfection won't cut it. Record them, and get feedback. Practice some more. Get more feedback. Keep doing this until you think you are ready, and get feedback on your final recording as well. If the overall impressions are good, then use those recordings. If there is still quite a bit of critiquing being done, especially on major stuff (background noise, hiss, or the read itself) keep practicing.

MUSIC
: There are a lot of sites out there that provide royalty free music to download, and these will be your friend. Find tracks that mach up with your reads, that fit naturally with what you already have recorded. If need be you can always re-take a script, but it's easier if you already have something that fits to work with. You may already eliminate some of your takes at this time just from lack of a good music track, but that's why you have extra!

Mixing
:* Here is where you find your best takes, and the best sections of those takes. Go ahead and trim them down (keep the original file too, just in case) and start putting the best pieces together. You will want them set up so that no two takes that are back to back use the same style if at all possible. Keep it varied, and let them be distinct. You will want the takes trimmed to about 10 seconds, 15 at the most, before moving to the next take. You may also want the audio to overlap some. Put the music tracks with their respective takes, and work to set the volume. Too loud with the music and it drowns out your voice, too quiet and it doesn't do any good. This part is mostly played by ear, but get feedback before showing it off to prospective clients.

There are other things you can add, like sound effects and stereo mixes, but keep it simple to start. If you try to do too much, it's easy to get things messed up without knowing what is causing the issue. For local clients, just music will be fine, and not even all pro demos go overboard here. The goal is to highlight you
voice, not mixing skills.

​

Professionally produced demo:

When you think you are ready for an agent, you will need a pro demo. Most agencies won't even consider you if you don't have one. They cost a lot, but the return is well worth it. You
will* want to ensure that you go with a reputable studio; there are a lot of scams out there that will take your money and don't care if you have the skill for a good demo yet. Ask around and do your research to find the right studio. Listen to work they have done, and get other voice actors' opinions of them.

They will provide you with scripts and do all the mixing for you; all you do is read the lines to the absolute best of your abilities. Again, the point of a demo is to showcase your voice and talent, not the mixing. That's just a part of it so that the client knows how you sound in a full mix. The audio engineers making your demo know this, and it's their job to make you stand out. The quality of a demo is only limited by your own abilities.

​

I know I covered a lot, but hopefully you can find at least something useful in there. It's not a full guide to getting into voice over, but it should work as a starting place. If you want to listen to my demos to get a feel for what I am talking about, you can find them here. Feel free to ask any follow-up question!

u/iAmMitten1 · 4 pointsr/letsplay

I feel like an ass for posting it again, but the response from it has been pretty good. I made a long post a few months ago containing information for beginning Let's Players. Here it is:

Picking A Name: Alright. It's time to start your channel. You've kicked the idea around for long enough. This is the first, and arguably the most important step in your Youtube career. Try to think of something different that hasn't been done. Don't copy the style of someone else's channel. For example, say you play Pokemon, and your name is Kyle, don't put KyleDoesPokemon. It will seem like you copied the name of SkyDoesMinecraft. Another thing is to avoid tons of numbers and X's. Say two channels have the same video uploaded, you can't see the views, subscriber count, comments or ratings. You are basing your viewing choice based on only the name of the video (which is the same) and the channel's name. Are you going to watch the video by XxBigJ0hnxXCoDK1llerzXx or Conspicuous Cactus (I apologize, I couldn't think of a catchy name)? Some will choose the
first, but most will choose the latter. I'm not saying that you can't achieve success with a cough bad cough name, but it will be a little more difficult. Ultimately, the Channel Name is just an attention grabber, like thumbnails and titles, but we'll get the that later. If your content is good, your Channel Name will not matter, as much.

Video Recording: You're set with your channel now. You've set it up and got the name you want. Great. Now the fun starts. If you don't want to spend a lot of money, i'd recommend the Dazzle, as far as capture cards go. I used one on my old channel, and it worked flawlessly. The only downside is that it only records in standard definition (144p-480p), unless you use an S-Video cable. This isn't good quality. But it's good enough to test the waters to see if you can create good content. If you want something that will work every time, and records in 1080p, I can't recommend the Elgato Game Capture HD enough. It's only downside is that it's pricey ($155). But you are getting a product that is the best in it's class. Back in 2010, you could get away with not having HD quality video, because HD PVR's were expensive. But not today. If you ever hope to achieve any sort of success, you must have video quality that is at least 720p. It's just not an option anymore.

Audio Recording: If you have a Turtle Beach headset, or some other USB powered headset w/ a mic, you can use that TO START WITH. Turtle Beach's have a good enough mic that it will be decent enough until you decide to move up a tier. If you want a great starting mic, that isn't a headset, the Blue Snowball is tough to beat. It sounds great, looks decent (like that really matters), and is cheap (in terms of cost, not quality). Depending on what color you get, it will run around $40-$50, which really isn't to bad for a microphone. You may also want to invest in a Pop Filter. A Pop Filter does exactly what the name says, it filters pops. It will remove, to a certain extent, the popping sound when saying p's, the ssss sound with s's, and all sorts of other things. They are definitely a good investment. However, if you don't want to buy one, you can search how to make one with a sock.

Editing Software: If you get a Dazzle, it will come with some decent editing software. It's nothing special, but it works well enough to get the job done. Hell, I used it for almost 2 years. But, if you want something better, and more professional, you should look at Sony Vegas or Adobe Premier. Both are great, and offer things that the other doesn't have, so you'll need to think about what kinds of things you'll be doing with it. I recommend Sony Vegas. I have never had a problem with it, and the learning curve isn't too high.

Channel Art: This is important. Very, very important. When someone views your channel, this will either make them continue their quest to view one of your videos, or it will make them immediately look elsewhere. This part is somewhat tricky to give advice for. It just has to look good. Don't just copy and paste logos of game's that you'll be playing onto a picture and call it "Channel Art". Use Photoshop, and put some effort into it. If you can't make it yourself, there are several people around /r/letsplay that will make it for you, for a small fee (/u/fuyi is fairly popular). There are also some websites that are easy to use and will make some decent (i'm using this word a lot, aren't I?) Channel Art that will work for a few months, or until you get around to making some yourself.

Thumbnails: Another incredibly important part of your Youtube Channel. You could have the best content ever, but if your Thumbnails suck, you won't get anywhere. The key to Thumbnails is to keep it simple. Use a nice, easily readable font, use complementary colors, and don't try to put too much in the Thumbnail. Avoid the lower right corner, as the duration of the video will cut off some of the Thumbnail. You can use this site to make some thumbnails too. Like the Channel Art, that site good for starting out, but you will want to learn how to make your own, using a program like Photoshop. If you start making your own thumbnails, the resolution for them is 1280x720, just so you know the correct size.

Video Titles: Video Titles are something a lot of people seem to mess up. It's actually really easy to make a good title. Some just put something like Let's play Minecraft episode 23. While that does tell you what the video is, it doesn't grab your attention. Something like Let's Play Minecraft: Part 23 | The Sands are Evil is better because it gives an idea of what will be going on in the video, which would probably be a problem with sand in the example. You can also you some punctuation like -'s, |'s, or :'s to help organize your videos.

Descriptions: There are two basic ways that you can have an effective video description. The first is to make a somewhat exaggerated statement that is relevant to the video, THE SAND WILL SWALLOW YOU WHOLE! RUN! RUN FOR YOUR LIVES!. The second way is keep it simple, Attention Traveler's: Please stay away from the sand. Several corpses have been found within them with large amounts of sand in their lungs. This is just my opinion, since I usually try to keep my descriptions witty. The third option is to just describe the video, In today's episode, we travel to an harsh landscape filled with sand and the dreams of dead travelers. You can either make the description funny and witty or you can keep it simple. Either way, don't put to much in it. Descriptions need to be kept short. It's also not a bad idea to put link to other videos in the series in the description or links to Twitter or other social media outlets.

Tags: Tags are the backbone to any successful Youtube Channel. All tags should be relevant to the video. Don't put other channel's names in their. Not only is it unproffessional, but it's useless (to a certain extent). If you search for Roosterteeth Minecraft Episode 100, and you see someone else's video below Roosterteeth's, you're going to watch Roosterteeth's video. Youtube has started to crack down on people who don't properly use the tagging system. If you make a Minecraft video and put Justin Bieber naked as a tag, you run the risk of your channel being given a strike or having the video taken down. Just put tags that are relevant to your video. If you make the 23rd episode of your Minecraft series, put tags like Minecraft Part 23, Minecraft Episode 23, Let's Play Minecraft Part 23, ect.

Other Things to Know:

  • Monetizing: You may want to monetize right from the beginning, and it is tempting, but you won't see enough of a return to make it worth the time of those who are viewing the ads. You may make a few dollars within your first couple months, so it's not worth it. Wait until your are getting upwards of 1000 views per day and then monetize.

  • Fan Interaction: Interact with people who comment whenever you can, whether it be on Youtube, Twitter, or somewhere else. Sometimes, you may want to consider replying to a comment, even if someone insults you or your channel. You may also find that most of the people who make those kinds of comments are dicks, but you might find someone who isn't (Here's a good example). It never hurts to be nice on the internet, especially when trying to grow a channel. You don't want to get popular, and then have a bunch of people look at the old comments you made and realize that you're an asshole.

    Concluding: Obviously, there is a bunch more to say, but there's a 10,000 character limit to these posts. To wrap it all up, you need to have a Channel that is well made, and regularly produces good content. If you're just starting out, good luck. You'll need it.
u/ThatSoundGuyChris · 2 pointsr/leagueoflegends

Okay this is going to be a long post, so here goes.

​

If you really want to get into sound design, youre going to need a few essentials. A DAW (Digital Audio Workstation), an audio interface, a handheld recorder, and a microphone.




DAWs

As far as a DAW goes, there's a few alternatives you can go with. I personally use Avid Pro Tools for near everything I do, but also mess around with Reaper. I've found that most studios will use one of these two. Most DAWs will have a pretty steep learning curve, so be ready for that.

Pro Tools First is the free version of Pro Tools. It has a lot of limitations, but for starting out it should be fine. If you want less limitations it costs big money, but I'm sure you can find a crack or two as long as you don't use it commercially.

Reaper is starting to grow on me lately. You can customize it to your needs, and the full version is only $60. You can also just deal with a popup everytime you open the program for ten seconds and use it for free. I mainly prefer Pro Tools over this because the video engine in Pro Tools is much better. But for batch editing multiple sound files, Reaper is muuuuuch better.

​

Audio Interface

This basically takes over as an intermediary between high quality audio and your computer. You can plug a microphone right into it to record sound straight to your computer. You can do this with a USB microphone as well, but the quality is a million times better with one of these.
I would recommend either the Behringer UMC22 or the more advanced Focusrite Scarlett Solo. Both will do the trick, I just prefer the mic pres on the Focusrite a bit more.


Handheld Recorder
Handheld recorders allow you to record anything you want to without having to deal with any cables. They should be compact but durable.

The Tascam DR-40 is a great intro recorder. It was the first recorder I got 5 years ago, and it still holds up. I've dropped this thing so many times and it still powers through.
Another favorite is the Zoom H4N. This was a favorite among most of my classmates as it was the one my school supplied, but I didn't feel like going through the checkout process all the time so I saved up and got the Tascam. It has a newer version, the Zoom H6, which is pretty slick, but comes at a higher price point. It also comes with some interchangeable microphone capsules so you can get different types of recordings. I'll cover more of this later.
I'll leave off with the recorder I have now, the Sony PCM-M10. This thing is a godsend. It's discontinued due to a newer version coming out, but you can find this guy on eBay for around $300-400. It's smaller than a phone, and the sound quality is amazing. If you have the money to shell out for this guy, definitely go for it. Every sound designer inn the industry I know swears by it.


Microphone

So the first thing you need to know is that there's a load of different microphone types. Its a lot to cover, so I'm just going to link you to this article that will cover the basics of what you need to know. Basically I would recommend different microphones for different things, all depending on what you're trying to capture.
A good all-around microphone is the Shure SM57/Shure SM58. They're essentially both the same microphone. But these things will LAST. Like,people have run over them with trucks and they sound fine. Definitely a good starting point

For vocal recordings, I would recommend the Rode NT1A. This mic is a great starting point for capturing voice, and is durable to boot.

For capturing foley/field recording, I would go with the Rode NTG2. Its a shotgun mic with great quality for the price, and never let me down in all the years Ive been using it. I won its successor, the NTG3, in the Riot Creative Contest a few years back, but still use the NTG2 from time to time when I need to.


Some Extra Stuff


Theres a lot of cool, free plugins out there. I've used both Blue Cat's and Melda's plugins, and they all get the job done with a bit of tweaking.

As far as building up a sound library goes, I would recommend recording literally everything you can around you and playing with those sounds with plugins as a good starting point for building up a library. There's a few resources out there that give out free SFX every once in a while, GDC has had a bundle go up for 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019. You can also check out the BBC Sound Effects Library. Be careful about getting libraries and bundles though, as they add up quick. I have to go through my sound library soon, and I probably have around 500,00+ files but only really need a few thousand.

For all your sounds, you're going to want a file manager. A great and free one is Mutant. You just add the directory where you downloaded your sounds to, let it load them in, and voila. You can search easily for what you need.


Hopefully, all this was somewhat helpful to you, or to anyone else reading this who's interested in sound design!

u/kiwiandapple · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Well, I decided to provide you with a cheaper suggestion compared to /u/Du6e great suggestion.
I did include a external

I changed a few parts to reduce noise.

  • CPU: Went with a locked CPU. This means less heat, which reduces in less fan speed required to cool the CPU.
  • CPU cooler: The NH-D15 is absolutely amazing for the price, but this little cooler is also in the category of amazing. Very easy to install, more than silent enough and keeps the CPU cool enough.
  • Motherboard: Because I went with a locked CPU, we don't have to pay the small premium for a Z97 board. This motherboard got everything you will want and will work absolutely fine.
  • Storage: Changed the SSD to a slightly faster one. I personally have the exact same one and I love it. Here is a benchmark of the performance.
  • Video card: The difference is mainly the cooler. Here is a comparision between the EVGA, MSI, Asus, Gigabyte & Stock GTX980Ti. Under load (so during games) the Gigabyte card is the loudest one of the cards tested. MSI beats the EVGA/Asus versions by a small judge.

    I will also provide you with a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.


    ---

    As for the Focusrite audio recorder.
    Here is a great video explaining and showing you why you want this.
    Here is a review of the one that I am suggesting. A slight amount cheaper compared to the one used in the video above.

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

    Type|Item|Price
    ----|:----|:----
    CPU | Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | £217.76 @ Dabs
    CPU Cooler | CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler | £16.49 @ Ebuyer
    Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H97-D3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | £85.98 @ Ebuyer
    Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury White 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | £60.99 @ Amazon UK
    Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £117.00 @ Amazon UK
    Storage | Western Digital Blue 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | £53.94 @ Aria PC
    Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked ACX 2.0+ Video Card | £528.53 @ More Computers
    Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | £58.96 @ Aria PC
    Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | £74.99 @ Amazon UK
    Monitor | Dell U2515H 60Hz 25.0" Monitor | £265.86 @ Aria PC
    Monitor | Dell U2515H 60Hz 25.0" Monitor | £265.86 @ Aria PC
    Sound recording| Focusrite Scarlett 2i2| £99.00 @ Amazon UK
    | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
    | Total | £1845.36
    | Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-22 09:11 GMT+0000 |

    ---

    ####Guides

    ---

    Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.

  • How to build an Intel 115x socket PC? This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short. It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well. I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
    There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.

  • How to install a 115x CPU? Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
  • How to install thermal compound? Now, to be clear! Every single heatsink will come with its own thermal compound. Even the intel/AMD stock heatsinks. So there is no need to buy this.
    It's only recommended to buy when you either have very bad temperatures or when you want to overclock to the extreme. The temperature difference between the best and the "worst" thermal compound is a couple degrees Celsius.
    Be careful though! More is not better! It needs to have enough, but too much will dramatically increase the temperatures of the CPU. Thermal compound helps with the contact of the cooler + the CPU. The CPU + heatsink both have microscopically small gaps, which the thermal compound fills up to let the heat get too the heatsink.
  • How to install RAM? It's very simple these days. For DDR4 it's pretty much the same.
  • How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive? You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
  • How to set up your SSD & HDD? This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10. He does talk about a few things that aren't very important, but it's good to know.
  • How to use Ninite? This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.


    Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

u/posidonking · 2 pointsr/audiodrama

Hi, I'm the co-editor for podcast production and I think I may be able to help with your questions.

Mics: Depending on your current recording space you have 2 options, Condenser or Dynamic Microphones. Condenser mics are very good at picking up detailed sound but they are most of the time to sensitive to be used without some sort of sound proofing or acoustic treatment to the room as they are really good at picking up even the quietest of sounds. but if you have a treated room or a acoustic shield then that might be an option to look into. Dynamic mics however are really good at capturing loud sounds and because of that, they are mostly used for singing and instruments. however they are also often used for narration because you don't have to go all out with the sound proofing as they are less sensitive. now since my talents are in post production, I don't need an expensive microphone to get a good sounding recording, so I just use a $20 Dynamic microphone from amazon, they're great in fact I bought 4 of them for a podcast I was doing, I can give samples if you would like. As for price, Condenser are on average going to cost more because of everything that goes into it. Dynamic mics are older tech, so they aren't as expensive. my friend who does the vocal recordings has the Rode NT1a, a rather expensive condenser microphone $229, and I record using the Behringer Xm8500 Dynamic mic $20 on amazon. so it's really up to your budget and editing know how.

Rode NT1a

Xm8500

You will also need a audio interface if you're going to be using XLR mics, which I highly recommend you do. Here's the one I use, although you may not need that many channels

​

Software: I use Adobe Audition around $20 a month subscription. However I have in the past used Audacity and if you know how to use it, you can get some really good results. If you are looking to get into industry standard software I would recommend Pro Tools also I think $20 a month.

​

Yes, people who don't use a studio generally record to their preferred Audio editor and mix/edit then upload to a hosting website for their podcast, the production I work for uses Blogtalk which I think has a free option. However there are many options for hosting websites (E.g. Acast, Podbean, Libsyn, Ect.) I recommend reading this website for hosting options.

​

People typically find voice actors through Casting Calls which they themselves set up or by going through a casting call website, and yes voice actors are typically paid although some may offer volunteer if they're just getting out there or for charity. For the sake of professionalism always assume you are paying for their services, that way if they decline payment then that's their choice as an actor.

​

If your podcast gains enough listeners then yes, you can definaty make money through podcasting, but you should never go only for making money. because one, it takes a while ti gain listeners and two it's just no fun if your only in it for the money.

​

I remember being exactly where you are now asking these questions, so If you need any help don't hesitate to ask. I hope this helps :)

​

​

TL,DR

Mics: I use a $20 Dynamic mic which gives me great recordings, although there are more expensive and higher quality options out there.

Software: I use Adobe Audition to edit everything but there are a myriad of other audio editing options out there including the free software Audacity.

Yes it can be as simple as Record/Edit/Post depending on what your doing and the type of podcast your going for.

You find actors through casting calls, and typically you always pay actors for their services. Always expect to pay.

Yes you can make money through podcasting depending on your listenership and Ads and things like that.

u/Du6e · 7 pointsr/buildapcforme

I'm not going to tell you how to spend your money, but you could easily put that 7k away and have a pretty badass setup for 10-15 years by building a new rig every so often.

Anyways lets say we go the one badass pc route, I'd recommend something like this based on a white build theme.

u/mellovibes75 · 4 pointsr/battlestations

Not OP but I can help you out here. Let's break this down by component:

  1. Speakers - There are two types: active and passive. Active = amplifier built into each speaker (i.e. most dedicated "computer" speakers from the likes of Logitech, Creative, etc.). Passive = 90% of speakers out there, must be connected to an amplifier to work. Typically passive speakers will get you a better speaker for a given price for an active but you have to figure in the cost of an amplifier. For a passive speaker set up, the cheapest system recommended over at /r/audiophile is a SMSL SA-60 amp and Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers. If your budget is higher, ask in the daily purchase advice sticky there (read the rules/suggestions thoroughly). I don't mess around with active speakers so I can't recommend any.

  2. Microphone - For simplicity's sake, I will recommend you look into USB connecting condenser microphones as they are affordable and have good sensitivity. Something like the Audio-Technica AT-2020 or Blue Yeti are popular mics for under $100. I have the Yeti and can attest that it is a very good and sensitive multi pattern mic. They can be hooked directly up to your PC or if you want to get really fancy, check out an audio interface like the Focusrite Scarlett Solo or Scarlett 2i2. The nice thing about an interface is it allows you get a nice mic with an XLR connector (generally better than a USB connection) and it will work with your PC.

  3. Headphones - Don't waste your money on "gaming" headphones. A nice 2 channel pair of cans with a standalone mic like I listed above will hands down outperform the likes of Turtle Beach and Razr headsets. /r/headphones has a really good wiki with more info than I can provide here and headphones broken down by price range and characteristics. Plus, then you can use them both for gaming and general music listening and have a good experience, something you don't get with dedicated "gaming" headsets. The amp I listed in the speakers section is fine for headphones but Schiit makes absolutely fantastic headphone amps and DAC (digital to analog converters, check out both /r/audiophile and /r/headphones for more info on them and why they are good for your set up) with very respectable price tags.

    Hope this helps. Higher quality audio equipment can be confusing and daunting, what with all the technical details, wide price ranges, parsing through all the marketing bullshit and the sometimes snobby attitudes of some "audiophiles". I wish you luck and feel free to ask me if you have any questions.
u/ChelatedMonoxide · 2 pointsr/recording

Yes, there are recorders that can record multiple tracks. Like the Tascam DR-40 has XLR inputs. I'm not necessarily endorsing the Tascam. I have the DR-05 and find it acceptable quality. Something like the Zoom H4N has XLR connectors built in, so you could record a mic into those and use the built in condenser mics to record your guitar.

You left out some relevant information: Budget, can your guitar be plugged in or will you mic it? Do you have a pretty sound free workspace?

I think budget is the most important part here. I interpret 'nothing flashy' as being a cheap as it can get without being poor quality.

I'm gonna link to listings on Amazon because it's easiest, but B&H or if you live near a Guitar Center might be a better place to buy.

A possible setup:

  • ART Dual USB Preamp - $80 - This will allow you to plug in one mic and your guitar and output the track to your computer via USB. Depending on the software, I believe you can have the tracks separate for editing, but they would separate into left and right channels that you'd then combine into a stereo track after editing.


  • Shure SM58 - $100 - A dynamic vocal mic that will play well in a not so perfect recording space. Check out Regina Spektor using one during a concert. This mic is so popular I would make sure to only get it from a reputable dealer i.e. not used on ebay, because there are fakes floating around.

    If you need/want to mic your guitar then consider the SM-57. It is nearly identical to the SM58. Here is a guy demonstrating using one to record his guitar.

  • If $100 is insanely out of your budget, then consider the Behringer XM8500 - $20 - Not as high quality as the SM58, but still a decent sound. Here is a guy comparing the SM57 to the XM8500 and is using just one mic for voice and guitar, without using a preamp, so keep that in mind when comparing the audio (I hear some noise in the audio, probably noise from the line to the camera, which I presume has some sort of automatic gain happening).

    This guy's video makes me wonder if just an SM57 with a decent preamp (i.e. one with clean gain) might be all you'd need... but that isn't ideal. You could go with two XM8500s, one for guitar and one for vocals ($40). Or one SM58 for vocals and one XM8500 for guitar($120). That all comes down to budget and preferences.

  • You'll need a mic stand, or two. The On-Stage MS7701B is a best seller on Amazon. I own one of these and it isn't going to impress anyone. I've never had it tip over or seem unsteady. If you extend the boom arm too far it can sometimes slowly droop over time (I may be guilty of not tightening it enough due to not wanting to strip the threads) It does the job of holding a mic in place. If you go with two mics, you could get two of them. You could also get a desk stand for the mic that is recording your guitar and find a suitable place to set it, but I think the boom arm of the MS7701B will be useful for keeping the stand out of your way.

  • And you will need cables. I recommend the cables from Monoprice, their Pro Audio series. It is not as user friendly to find the exact cables you'll need as a site like B&H, but I have had several of their cables and only had one die on me. All their cables have a lifetime warranty and the prices are shockingly low.

  • And a windscreen or pop filter for the mics is nice. There is a decent windscreen on Amazon for 3 bucks, sometimes 2 bucks.

    Potential Changes & other thoughts -

    A more expensive preamp - ART Tube Dual Mic Preamp With USB - $190- this has some compression and a limiter. It's debatable whether in this range it would be better to get a decent mixer, a preamp for your vocals, and let the preamp on the mixer handle the guitar, or if something like this would be better. Like a Behringer mixer - Q802USB ($80) + ART single channel Preamp for vocals ($40/$50) would be less money than the Dual USB preamp.

    Or maybe just the Q802USB would suffice for your needs. It has preamps already built in. They are not the best preamps in the world. I mean... after all I wrote above, the more I think about it the more I think you should try a Q802USB and see if the sound is what you're wanting.

    Headphones - Add in some headphones to monitor your audio. ATH-M40x ($100) would be my recommendation, but this is where a lot of personal preference comes into the mix, no pun intended.

    Different mics - Rode has some mics that compare the the Shure SM57/58 that might be better. And the options for mic are virtually limitless, when you consider not just the mics can vary, but the audio interfaces and processing options. I really think a dynamic mic will be most user friendly for a one off home recording.

    I hope I haven't confused more than I helped. I think the essentials are this: good mics, clean gain, easy to use. Whether you get the dual channel ART preamp or the Q802USB, either will be easy to use. I would bet the gain on the ART preamp is cleaner, meaning less background hiss at higher levels, than the Q802USB, but perhaps that is just an unreasonable bias. In either case, the mic is going to be important and where your budget plays a big role. The SM58 and SM57 are superb for vocals and recording guitar. A condenser might be better if the acoustics of your recording space allow for it, but I hope you saw from the video I linked of the guy recording his guitar with the SM57 that a great sound can be achieved with a $100 mic. If that is out of your budget, keep in mind the XM8500, but the sound is not as clear as the Shure mics it tries to emulate.
u/Varzboi · 1 pointr/ThisIsOurMusic

Hey you need overall 3 things:

  1. Gear
  2. A room
  3. Software

    /

  4. Gear:

    -Audio Interface:

    You want a number of channels depending on the type of groups you wanna record and the size of the group. Example: 18 Channels (8 mics) v.s. 2 channels (2 mics)

    -Microphones:

    You want basic versatile microphones and specialized ones for the type of instruments you wanna record.

    Example of basic mics: Shure sm-57 Dynamic Mic and AKG 414 Condenser Mic

    Those two have a fairly transparent frequency response and work for most scenarios but you also want mics that work better for certain instruments because of their coloration or diaphragm or polar pattern.

    -Monitoring:

    You need some headphones like the Audio Technical M50x which are transparent enough and good for the price although you could go a little further and look for Sennheiser HD or some of the expensive AKG stuff.

    -Accessories and cables

    You want good quality XLR cables, two direct boxes like this one and probably a direct box with pre amp like the Avalon U5 (great for sending bass via line, skipping the bass amp part, which can be great for live sessions). Both depend on the type of music you are gonna record of course (first example works for connecting stuff like a keyboard and the Avalon well for bass is great).

    You may want a monitor amplifier like Behringer Powerplay for distributing audio to the players or producers or audience via headphones monitors.

    Also check out EquipBoard to see what gear are other producers or studios using. They have a good database and is good reference.


  5. If you wanna do it like TinyDesk then you wanna have a nice room with good isolation and space for your musicians. Well, mostly for the sound. There are 2 ways of recording live sessions: Either you isolate most of the musicians or you use proper recording techniques and use your mics intelligently to get a good mix before your Mixing stage. You may wanna look for highly directional mics.

    You also wanna look on isolation techniques and architecture if you wanna have good natural reverberation or just have control over what the sound is doing, including annoying neighbors if that’s the case. Look for how to soundproof a room in the internet and try read a little about acoustics if you haven’t.

    You may wanna to set up 2 rooms: a live room and a control room. The live room would be where you record the musicians and have way more soundproofing and the control would just need to isolate enough and allow visual contact with the ppl in the live room. If you go for 2 rooms you may need to set up the ins and outs and pass cables through the wall in a snake cable like this Hosa or this bigger one . The purpose of having 2 rooms is partly because you wanna monitor with speakers not only headphones (as well as having more recording gear there but it only applies to bigger studios). Example Yamaha HS8 x2 or the KRK . Those are fairly priced options and you will get more value out of them if you are the one mixing the music as they can be better references than just headphones.

  6. For software you should consider Pro Tools as is the industry standard. I personally enjoy Logic Pro and there are a lot more options out there some of which are free. If you are not gonna go a lot into mixing and do the post production maybe Pro Tools Ultimate is a bit of an overkill but if you are looking to do the mix you may also wanna get some audio plugins. Look for Waves or Arturia plugins online (most of which is simulations of real hardware) which will give a “better” sound to your mixes if used well. It also depends a little on the genre or type of music you are producing.



    That’s it. I was very broad but I did mentioned some basic equipment you can start budgeting. If you need more details about the basics PM me and can help you a bit more, I’m no specialist on some stuff like exquisite mics but know about a bunch that are generally used. Are you in Vancouver by chance? I can help you in the actual physical setup if you are.

    Cheers.

    Edit: You probably want a powerful laptop or a desktop computer btw but I figure out you already have one.
u/DontTakeMyNoise · 1 pointr/buildapc

If I were you, I might do it a little differently.

Steelseries makes good keyboards and they're very customizable. r/mechanicalkeyboards might throw a hissy fit at me for saying that, but they're good all around boards. Every key can be customized with macros and stuff if he so chooses, right in the Steelseries software. No need to mess around with AHK.

Mice are a very personal thing. Does he know you're getting him PC peripherals for Christmas? If so, knowing the size of his hand, and if possible, how he grips a mouse would be super helpful. I spend a shameful amount of time on r/mousereview and would love to help you out! The Xtrfy M4 is very popular at the moment if he has medium or small hands. Right here you can see how to measure hand size properly.

If you can't get a precise measurement or grip style that's fine - could you maybe compare his hand to yours (a simple "Hey, which one of us has bigger hands?" should do), measure yours, and estimate roughly how different they are.

If he's got the space for a setup, he'd be much better off with a dedicated set of headphones and a dedicated microphone than with a headset, and it'd be cheaper too! I personally recommend the Superlux 668B headphones with a set of replacement earpads (these ones are amazing, but these ones are still very good while being much cheaper). Then grab yourself a Fifine microphone and something cheap to hold it and you've saved yourself a lot of money while getting him a much better product!

Oh, those headphones will let in a fair amount of background noise, and they'll leak a bit of the sound playing through them. If your house/apartment is often loud or you share a space and don't want to hear his games, these Takstars are shockingly good for the price. If you wanna save a few bucks and not go for a separate microphone, this CM headset is based off them but has an attached mic!

Good luck and I hope he enjoys his gift! Feel free to ask any questions you've got, PM if you want :)

u/Vortax_Wyvern · 4 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

If you want, I can copy-paste the response I usually give to people asking about gaming headset. Hope it will help you.

Wall of text ahead. Please, read only if you are really interested...


What I usually recommend when someone ask for advice about gaming headsets is: Gaming headset are crap 99% of the time. They provide very poor sound quality, and any good headphone (literally, even 40$ ones) will sound far better than expensive 300$ headsets. The question is not if headphones are better than headset (the answer is “Hell, YEAH”). The question is, are they better for you?


What are you planning to use your headphones for? Just for gaming, or for gaming and music listening?


If the answer is “just for gaming”, then ask yourself if a Hifi headphone is what you need. Usually games don’t really need high quality headphones, since they provide low quality sound, and you will be more concentrated gaming than listening. In that scenario, everything will serve you, and gaming headsets have the advantage of the integrated microphone.


So, if you want something good for gaming, and just for gaming, with integrated microphone, then the only two headsets with good enough quality sound (aka don’t suck) are:


HyperX Cloud (70$)


Sennheiser G4me One (170$)


Both are good choices. Or go with any fancy RGB headset you find (Logitech, Razer, Corsair, Steelseries, etc), you will most probably don’t notice the difference while gaming.


BUT, if you plan to use them for music listening besides gaming, then keep reading.


About the microphone problem


Hifi headphones for gaming have the disadvantage of having to deal with the micro thing. None of them have microphone incorporated, and you must find a workaround to the problem. Options available are:


1- Use a desk microphone like this


2- Some headphones have detachable cable. If the connector is a 3.5mm jack, you can substitute the cable with this V-Moda micro. That way you can have a microphone attached and still use a single cable. Main problem is that you must use this cable, no matter what, and if you end buying an amplifier, you can no longer use this microphone, as amplifiers don’t have micro input. Also, not all headphones are compatible, as not all use 3.5mm jack connections (Audio-technica and Sennheiser headphones are NOT compatible with V-moda Boom micro, cause they use 2.5mm jack)


3- use a modmic like this one or if your budget is tight, something like this.


The first option requires desk space and it’s expensive. The second one is not compatible with every headphone, and forces you to use this cable. The third one are detachable micro, with an extra cable you’ll have to deal with. Any of them are a nuisance. Any solution is annoying. All of them are an extra expense that must be accounted. If micro is a must and you are not willing to bother with this solutions, please, go back to HyperX Cloud or G4me One.


Ok, so, you really want some damn good headphones, that also can be used for gaming! Keep reading, please (are you bored yet?).


You can choose Closed back headphones (the classic ones you have already used. Closed back models offer good isolation and do not leak sound. This is your choice when there are people around you, or you want isolation from noisy a environment.) or Open Back headphones (Open back models offer next to no isolation and will leak sound -and allow you to hear what happens around you-, but they are the best sounding models). Open headphones achieve the best sound, soundstage (feeling that sound is coming from around you) and imaging (ability to locate the source of one sound).


If you are here because you want to get a replacement for a gaming headset, I would recommend you Open back, but since they don’t isolate, you must choose. If isolation is required, get closed back, if that’s not a concern, go open.


Some closed back cans:


Audio-Technica ATH-M40x. 100$. Balanced headphones, very good feedback from lots of people. Typical entry level headphones to the rabbit hole.


Sennheiser HD 598Cs. 125$. Balanced, very very detailed, great instrumental separation. Comfortable as hell, very recommended.


Beyerdynamic DT770. 160$. V-shaped signature (lots of bass and lots of treble). Amazing soundstage (for a closed headphone). Great for explosions, movies, and rock. Treble can be harsh if you are sensible. Get the 32 ohm version, as the 80 (may) and 250 (do) need an amplifier to work properly.


Those are some examples of entry-mid level of closed cans. There are lots more, depending of your budget!


As for open cans:


Superlux HD668b. 40$. Those are THE CANS. The best quality for low budget you can get. Hands down. Great soundstage, Bass light. They are not too comfortable, but pads can be changed for a deluxe comfort (extra expense). You are not getting anything better at this price. For gaming in a budget, this are the headphones you were looking for.


Philips SHP9500. 80$. Mid-forward signature. Good soundstage, great comfort. Very detailed. Another amazing quality for the budget headphone. Due its popularity, they’re getting harder and harder to get.


Sennheiser HD 598 SR. 170$. Very similar to the HD 598Cs, but with open back. Wider soundstage, a little less bass. Very balanced headphones. Super-duper comfortable. Great for long gaming sessions.


Philips Fidelio X2. 250$. V-shaped signature. Those are in another league. Build quality is just.. OMG. Extreme soundstage and imaging. More comfortable than the HD 598. Bass is BOOOOOM!!!. A little pricey, and can be somewhat fatiguing to listen if you are treble sensible, due to high treble.


Well, that’s all. I have selected only headphones that don’t need an amplifier. Now is your turn to research, watch some Youtube videos, read some reviews, and give them a try.


All this headphones are GOOD. No trash here, and all them will make you open your eyes when listening your music if you are coming from standard headsets. You will notice sounds, instruments, that you never realized they were there, even if you had listened this song a thousand times before. Try them, and be amazed.


Welcome to the rabbit hole.


u/brother_bean · 8 pointsr/sysadmin

I'd say for me, if I were making my own home office and wanted to trick it out:

At minimum a dual monitor setup, but it would be nice to have 3 (I have dual monitors and also the laptop screen running them so it works out to 3.) A nice monitor arm that will hold both (or all 3) monitors to keep the desk clutter free. Something nice that makes both monitors adjustable for you (maybe even a 90 degree rotation so you can code on a vertical screen when you feel like it.)

A nice condenser mic with an arm for it as well. I figure if I were working from home I would probably be doing conference calls more regularly than if I were in the office, so a good condenser mic will make my life easier and make sure I can communicate well. Maybe a blue yeti or blue yeti snowball with a nice boom arm for it like so so I can use it when I want it and then push it away when I don't.

In the same vein, a decent webcam that can clip on to my monitor (or buy one of the above boom arms and attach the camera to it, probably smart for only $15 so you can move it around.)

Definitely a great office chair since you can justify the expense and you're going to be sitting all day.

This one is great regardless of working for home or working from the office, but a nice mouse. I just got a Logitech G502 the other day for gaming as well as work purposes and MAN. I never knew what I was missing out on. I have thumb buttons/extra buttons programmed to copy, paste, delete, winkey + e to open an explorer window, ctrl + t for new tab, and also a key combination to switch my active window to my other monitor so I can quickly move stuff between them without having to click and drag.

Since you're working from home and don't have to worry about bothering other people, I'd definitely buy a nice mechanical keyboard. They're a dream to type on. I used to have an office to myself so I bought one and I miss it dearly now that I'm in a cubicle. In my opinion, well worth the expense.

Again since you're not in an office you could get a nice speaker. Bluetooth to keep the cord clutter down but really anything works. You can go budget or big here.

If you're a whiteboard person, a whiteboard to hang on the wall.

Definitely yes to the dock. I have one here at my office and it's so flipping nice being able to plug in one thunderbolt cable and keep the clutter contained to the back of my desk behind my monitors with the dock.

I'd probably buy a nice standing or desk light that still uses filament bulbs to make it warm/easy on the eyes. Ample lighting. And probably a plant or two just to make it look nice and feel good being there.

That's all I can think of. Can you tell I'm living vicariously through you? I know you said must haves, so if I were going to buy the above in order, it would be monitors > dock > mouse > blue yeti snowball > mic stand > camera > camera stand

u/mstrblueskys · 2 pointsr/TwinCities

I have a buddy who runs a music studio, but if you needed the space, he'd definitely set it up for a podcast interview.

I do tend to agree that you should be able to get pretty close to studio sound on a budget assuming you have a computer already. I understand that sometimes owning stuff is a huge hassle itself, but if it's something you want to do a few times, the cost savings would start to be there.

Since no one has given you any real advice on how to do this, I can give it a shot.

I'd start by installing Audacity on your computer. It's super basic, but what you're doing is super basic. And it's super free. That's a huge plus.

Next, decide how you want to do microphones. First, you'll want stands. If it's an interview/two person thing, you'll need a couple of these (or more if you want more mics). We're at $25 for two now.

Next, decide what quality you want to be at. The Blue Snowball is a pretty great entry level microphone. I've honestly never run two into a computer before, but I imagine it'd be easy enough to record two different microphones on two different tracks in Audacity. That would bring our total to around $150. To upgrade in this way, you would go to something like the Blue Yeti. At over $100/unit, that adds another $100 to your cost.

The other way to do microphones is using a USB Interface for your computer and buying standard microphones. I'm keen on that option because it's a little more flexible if and when you look to upgrade your setup. You can use $15 microphones to get by or if you're locked and loaded, you can upgrade to really nice condensers.

As far as soundproofing goes, you can decide if that's possible wherever you're at. The last voice over project I worked on, I hung blankets in my bedroom and that was perfectly fine. Obviously that's not the most professional look, but there wasn't a pile of ambient noise to deal with and the directional mics do a good job focusing on your voice. You can build sound dampening walls with plywood, insulation, and fabric if you really want. It takes a staple gun, some screws, and about an hour per panel.

Assuming you have the time, an okay computer, and about $300, you could really build yourself a nice studio. If this is a one off kind of thing, it's definitely not worth it. My buddy's place is called, The Petting Zoo and I'd be more than willing to ask him details if you want.

Either way, good luck!

u/Tacanacy · 3 pointsr/PS4

Mic or headset?



🔊 MICROPHONES



  • Antlion ModMic 4

    Attaches to headphones using a clasp system and is easy to attach and remove. Is compatible with all headphones. Comes with and without a mute switch.

  • Massdrop Minimic

    Attaches to headphones using a clasp system and is easy to attach and remove. Is compatible with all headphones. Has a mute switch and is modular. Is only available via drops on Massdrop.com. I recommend requesting it if you want to wait for it.

  • V-MODA BoomPro

    Connects to the headphone's jack, replacing the headphone cable. Is compatible with Philips SHP9500 and Status Audio CB-1. Has a mute switch and a volume control.

  • Neewer 3.5mm Clip on Mini Lapel Microphone

    Clips onto your clothing. Has no in-line controls.

  • Sony ECMCS3

  • Clips onto your clothing. Has no in-line controls.

  • Zalman ZM-Mic1

    Clips onto your clothing. Has no in-line controls.

  • Blue Snowball

    Has various placement options. Has no in-line controls.

  • Samson Go

    Has various placement options. Has no in-line controls.



    You can use various audio controllers for volume control and mute toggle:

  • Fosmon
  • Insignia
  • Lucid Sound AdjustR



    To connect the ModMic, Minimic, clip-on mics and other 3.5mm mics to DS4 or an audio controller, you need a TRRS / 4-pole Y-splitter (three black rings on the connector). The BoomPro doesn't require a Y-splitter. USB mics are plug-and-play.

     

    🎧 HEADPHONES



  • AKG K52

    Sound: Has a wide and deep soundstage, good imaging, clarity and detail retrieval and decent separation. It doesn't over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble. The bass can sound a little muddy in e.g. blasts and explosions.

    Build: Is closed-back and over-ear. Durable and very lightweight. The cups tilt and pivot, so they should adjust to the shape of your head nicely. The earpads have decent quality and are soft and removable, but they're shallow.


  • Philips SHP9500

    Sound: Has a soundstage with medium width and depth. It has good imaging, separation and detail retrieval and very good clarity. It doesn't over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble.

    Build: Is open-back and over-ear. Durable and lightweight. The cups tilt and pivot and the cable detaches. The earpads have good quality and they're soft and removable, but they're very shallow. Replacing them requires modification or buying/making 3D printed rings that the new earpads attach to. Modifying is very easy and quick to do and doesn't require special tools or extra parts. I've made a tutorial. 3D printed parts can be bought from Mod House Audio and Thingiverse. The clamping force is very light, so I don't recommend the headphone for children or if you frequently move your head down and have an average sized head. For aftermarket earpads, I recommend Shure HPAEC1840. These tighten the clamping force for a little, and personally, I love the comfort and fit with these.

  • Superlux HD668B

    Sound: Has a wide and deep soundstage, I'd say 50% bigger than SHP9500. It has very good imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval. It has emphasized treble and a small boost in the mid-bass.

    Build: Is semi-open-back and over-ear. Sturdy and lightweight. The cups tilt and pivot. The cable and earpads are detachable. The earpads have bad quality and are shallow, so I recommend replacing them with earpads from HiFiMAN.

  • Superlux HD681 EVO

    Sound: Has the same soundstage as HD668B. It has very good clarity and good detail retrieval, but has poor imaging and separation. It's warm sounding with deep bass.

    Build: Is semi-open-back and over-ear. The cups tilt and pivot. The cable and earpads are detachable. The earpads have decent quality and are soft and detachable, but they're shallow and the drivers stick out quite a bit, so I recommend taking out the loose felt inside the cups, unless you're sensitive to treble, and replacing the earpads with earpads from HiFiMAN, or earpads from Brainwavz if you want much more depth. These are expensive, but they have great quality, they are made of memory foam and are very soft and roomy, and the sound quality is absolutely worth it.



    I also compare to AKG Q701, Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms), HiFiMAN HE400i, HyperX Cloud, Philips Fidelio X2 and Sennheiser HD700, which I got for gaming, except for HE400i, but it's great for gaming. I don't recommend HyperX Cloud / Cloud II / CloudX. I strongly advise against them if you don't need closed-back. My evaluations derive mostly if not only from gaming (so take it with a grain of salt for music entertainment listening). I can't emphasize enough that perceived performance in headphones is relative.

     

    Glossary | ℹ️
    ---|---
    Closed-back x | Cups with solid shells that largely isolate sound from passing in and out.
    Open-back / semi-open-back | Cups with perforations/grills that allow outside sound to freely pass in and sound from the drivers to freely pass out. How loud you hear outside sound and how loud people around you hear the sound from the headphones depend on the volume, of course. The sonic benefit to open-back is generally a big soundstage.
    Soundstage | Perceived space and environment of sound. It can be compared to virtual surround sound; both attempt to produce the same spacious, three-dimensional effect. VSS can sound more ambient and immersive, which depends on the processor you use (CMSS-3D, Dolby, SBX, etc.), but it degrades the sound quality and diminishes detailing due to compression from digital processing. You might also experience less accurate imaging and separation if the headphone already has good imaging and separation. Note that a deep soundstage is equally important as a wide soundstage.
    Imaging | Accuracy of sounds/objects positioned across the soundstage. And I mean where they are positioned -- not merely what direction they come from. This distinction is important because being able to tell only what direction objects come from isn't good enough to me when playing against people. Imaging is inherent to the audio content, so if the game is recorded or mixed poorly, a headphone with good imaging won’t improve the positional audio, so don't judge the headphone before using it in games you're very familiar with. I test mine mostly in Battlefield: Bad Company 2.
    Separation | Separating individual sounds from a range of sounds. Good separation makes it easier to filter out or discern overlapping sounds from other sounds and track them.

u/kickedtripod · 3 pointsr/Twitch

Hey!
A bit about me before I go on a rant: I'm a professional podcaster. Spoken audio is how I make my living. I've used and tried just about every popular microphone/preamp (XLR & USB) up to about $500 (and quite a few over $500). So to start, what routes CAN you take (you kind of highlighted your options a bit, but I'd like to expand on them).

  1. A new headset microphone. Simple. Look HyperX Cloud II or a nice Sennheiser set. They've got really good gaming headset microphones (but very few if any headset microphones are going to sound better than a "real" microphone), and you wont need any extra equipment. The downside is your audio quality will only ever be adequate and the quality of your headphones is tied to the audio quality of your microphone.
  2. A USB microphone. This is the compromise most streamers make. With a USB-only microphone, the DAC (Digital-to-Analog Converter) is built into the microphone. DACs typically do two things 1. Convert the signal and 2. Add/reduce/maintain quality. For example, a USB > XLR converter box is $5 on Amazon, but the sound degradation is night and day worse than what you would get from a more serious DAC like a Scarlett Solo or something similar. With a USB microphone, the DAC is built into the microphone itself. Generally speaking, a separate DAC is going to have superior sound quality to an integrated one (in the same way an integrated GPU is almost always worse than a dedicated one) - but there are exceptions, and at the lower price ranges the differences are generally minimal. If you go with a USB microphone, I personally would suggest you skip over the Yeti. The Yeti is a FINE sounding microphone, but it has a LOUD noise floor meaning that computer fans, A/C units, and just about anything else that makes noise will be picked up by that microphone without laying on effects. In the Yeti's favor, it's a REALLY cool looking microphone - but it definitely doesn't punch at or above its weight in sound quality. Again, you can make a Yeti sound good if you have the right room or the technical ability to add a noise gate, EQ, compressor, etc, but it's a lot of extra work. I'll talk about recommendations in a second.
  3. An XLR microphone. This is the "long-term" play. However, MOST XLR microphones are going to have minimal superior sound quality until you get to microphones at about $250+. With an XLR microphone you'll also need a DAC. A decent DAC (that outperforms the built in DAC of a USB microphone) is generally going to run near the $100 range. Meaning that for your microphone, boom stand, pop filter, and shockmount, you're tied to $150 to stay in your price range. The upside is, it's unlikely you'll need to replace your DAC anytime soon unless you grow into really expensive microphones.

     

    Types of Microphones:
  • Condenser: Condenser microphones are generally the most popular on the Twitch streaming community but, in my opinion, they shouldn't be used in most cases. Condenser microphones tend to have loud noise floors and require a room to be treated. They also generally have worse angle rejection (ideally, your microphone isn't catch noise to the side and behind the microphone).
  1. Broadcast microphone. This is my recommendation. You can lose some of the "shiny-ness" of a condenser microphone, but in most cases it's not noticeably relevant. Comparing ~$250 budget microphones aren't going to have incredibly different frequency responses (again, exceptions apply).
    Recommendations:
  2. An XLR/USB hybrid microphone - Broadcast: The Audio-Technica AT2005USB is a microphone that has both XLR and USB. Meaning you can start out with USB, get the right equipment with a boom arm/shock mount/pop filter and down the road get an audio interface (DAC) to add some quality to the microphone. The only downside? The microphone isn't especially cool to look at.
  3. A USB-only microphone. The Audio Technica ATR2100-USB is essentially the same as the 2005, but doesn't have XLR. You save $15. This article is a great source on some dynamic microphones to take a look at.
  4. An XLR-only microphone. This is the long-term play, but not a bad one. If you see yourself wanting to upgrade microphones and change out gear down the road, this may be the most viable option. You picked a good microphone in the AT2035, but a mediocre DAC (for reasons I discussed earlier).
  5. Headset: Sennheiser or HyperX Cloud II. Do some research and watch some reviews.

     

    Sorry for the INCREDIBLY long-winded response. Microphones, for me, make or break streams and just because it's "analog" or "looks cool" doesn't mean that it'll perform well. I also want to add an additional shout out to using a Podfarm or OBS's VST plugins to highlight your voice. Using a microphone "dry" is rarely (if ever) the best way to get the best out of that microphone. Adding simple effects can be the difference maker between making a $50 microphone sound like a $500 one and a $500 one sound like a $50 microphone. Cheers and good luck!
u/chimpanzeeland · 8 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

So assuming that all normal PC components are included (PC, display, keyboard, mouse), as well as monitors or headphones, this is what I'd do:

DAW: Cakewalk by Bandlab [FREE]

  • Having a DAW should really be the first thing you look at. I don't use Cakewalk personally but I've tried it and for the price, it's unbeatable.

    Interface: BEHRINGER UMC22[$59]

  • A very affordable interface with the very good MIDAS preamp. Great value for all of your initial interface needs.

    Mic: Audio-Technica AT2020 [$99]

  • Again, a very affordable, but decent, mic. As it's a large diaphragm condenser, it's extremely versatile and will sound great on everything from guitar to vocals.

    MIDI Controller: Alesis VMini [$49]

  • For the budget, you'd only need a basic midi controller and Alesis is a tried and true brand in this price segment.

    VSTs/Plugins:
    I'd try to get by using as many free VSTs, as well as what's included in Cakewalk. Here's a list of decent free stuff that'd get you started:

    Guitar amp sims: LePuo free collection [FREE]

  • LePou is really the gold standard of free guitar plugins. With a bit of tweaking, they sound great. I'd definitely pair them with the TSE Audio TS-808 tubescreamer (also free).

    Drum sim: MT Power Drum Kit [FREE]

  • A Steven Slate-style drum VST with good samples and a decent groove editor. For the price, you can't go wrong.

    Other plugins:

  • For synths, effects and other plugins, VST4FREE is your friend. They have a great selection of free stuff.

    Assuming your PC is relatively recent and has enough horsepower to run a production suite, and you have monitors/headphones that are fine for mixing, this would be a great place to start out. Also, even after buying extras like cables, mic stands, pop filters etc, I'd say you have about $200-250 left for whatever genre specific stuff you'd want - whether it be a used guitar, a second mic (such as the Shure SM57 [$95]) or a second hand hardware synthesizer, for instance.
u/theupstateshow · 2 pointsr/podcasting

I can't speak to remote podcasting, as we do all our stuff in my home studio. Speaking to the budget side of things, there are some great alternatives out there to USB Mics. I have one that I use for conference calls on my laptop, it's a Samson GoMic. It is quite responsive and very portable. I tried using it on our podcast when we started it up, but is did not work that well. I don't know how this might fit into your budget, but here is what we are doing here:

MIXER - We are using a 4 channel mixer with a Presonus audio interface into our iPad, where L and R outputs from the mixer go into the interface and get mixed down to stereo on the iPad. If you are looking to do just 2 mics and are not going to expand for a while, this will go right into your ipad with little trickery: http://www.amazon.com/Presonus-AudioBox-Bus-powered-Audio-Interface/dp/B00M0EHRBE/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1421082444&sr=8-13&keywords=audio+interface+ipad


SOFTWARE - Boss Jock Studio. $9.99 from the App Store. This software is great because we will record some stuff ahead of time, grab interviews, play theme music, etc. When we are don recording in Boss Jock, we will export it to the computer, clean it up (Normalize, Compressor, etc.), Convert it to MP3 then upload it to our site.

Mics - We found a great deal on some no-name mics at Guitar Center where we got 3 Mics, XLR cables and a few stands for around 120. 2 mics will likely be cheaper. Get some Pop filters too from Amazon, we got some for cheap (link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008AOH1O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) they clip onto a mic stand. Don't hit them too hard or they go out of place, but they work great otherwise and you cant beat the price ($7.00 a piece)

HOSTING - This is important, because once you get the show set up, you don't want to move around too much. We are going self hosted using a VPS at OVH. We use Wordpress and Podlove to publish our feed, and handle the blog that goes with our show. From there we have the feed exported to iTunes store, and you can subscribe right on the site. We were doing SoundCloud for free before, but this is much better because we do a new show every week and want to have a rolling list of 10 episodes for people to snatch. it helps to have some wordpress foo because it might seem overwhelming at first, but we are happy to guide you through it. I do wordpress sites for my job so I can cruise through it with rather quick turnaround time.

Please, if you have any questions, we will be happy to help you out EVERY STEP OF THE WAY, just PM us and we will get you going, give you a run through, all that fun stuff. We were noobs once, and would love to pay it forward. As far as I am concerned, we are still noobs anyway, but at least we got the actual production aspect of our show hammered out.

If we don't hear from you, best of luck! Don't get discouraged, just keep doing it and you will be glad you did, it is a lot of fun and my friends and I have made a weekly ritual out of. We are basically drinkers with a podcasting problem.

u/alexsgocart · 398 pointsr/DIY

I have always wanted to have a "smart" radio. My parents have always owned various Pioneer, Kenwood, and Sony radio decks, but they always had their cons to them (clunky OS, different type of touch screens that suck, lack of features, very expensive $800-$2000), useless features, etc.). I wanted something that runs Android 6.0+. I thought about using iPads, but I didn't want to waste a bunch of money for something that is going to be used in my car only. I wanted a budget friendly "smart" radio. That is when I found the perfect tablet, the Nexus 7 2013. Cheap, powerful, Android 6, compact, somewhat thin and small, and best part, it fits in a double-din radio deck.

After finding various projects that people have used, I decided to order a bunch of stuff from Amazon (everything was bought with Prime) and see if I could get this to work. It took about 3 weeks to work out all the bugs, but it runs perfect now. I never found anyone that did this mod in a Nissan Pathfinder, so that was difficult going on my own, reading various wiring diagrams and getting power, sound and steering wheel controls to work. After lots of testing each wire, and lots of trial and errors, everything is working how I want it too.

Questions that people have asked me that I can remember on the top of my head:


Q: How do you turn the tablet on and off if the power button is blocked?

A: Easy, with Timur's Kernel, and the USB car charger hooked up to the accessory power, when I turn my key on/start my car, the tablet detects power from the USB, which wakes the screen/powers on. (ELI5: there are 2 power sources in your radio, a constant 12 volt power, and an accessory key power. So when you turn the key to ACC or ON, it gives power to the tablet, but when you turn the key off, it takes away power from the USB port.)

Q: How does it hold up in the wonderful California heat?

A: Shockingly very well. It hasn't given me any issues in ~95F (+35C) degree weather. There was a day where it was 115F (46C) degrees outside, and that is when the tablet finally said NOPE and started locking up and freezing due to the ridiculous heat. After running my AC for a few minutes, it cooled the tablet down to reasonable temperature and ran normally again. When my car is parked, I have a windshield sun shade that helps a ton with keeping the sun off my black/gray dash, and/or microfiber towels over the screen to keep the sun off. If it's super hot, I just take the tablet/radio/air conditioner part out of my car and bring it inside (not that hard to remove).

Q: How do you control the volume?

A: With the JoyCon EXC, it translates either CAN, IBUS, resistive, or digital steering wheel control signals, to USB keyboard signals that the tablet can see. I have the Joycon setup to have Volume UP/DOWN, Screen ON/OFF, PAUSE/PLAY, and PREVIOUS/NEXT. Click here for more information.

Q: How do you listen to the radio/music?

A: Spotify Premium. While I can spend ~$10 on a radio antenna to USB to listen to over-the-air radio stations, I never listen to the radio. When I had my old stock radio, I never listened to the radio part. I always used my 3.5mm jack to plug in my phone for Spotify. Great perk about being a broke college student is getting 50% off Spotify Premium.

Q: Can you/do you watch TV or movies on it while you drive?

A: I can, but I don't. Pay attention to the freakin' road.

Q: How do you get internet on it since it's a WiFi version?

A: I use my Bluetooth hotspot on my phone to get internet for Waze, Google Maps, etc. I can also use the WiFi hotspot, but that uses more power. I can drive from California to Idaho running Waze the whole way and it uses about ~300MB of data.

Q: Can you make phone calls with it?

A: This has been something I have been trying, but have not had success with yet. I use an app called [TabletTalk] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apdroid.tabtalk&hl=en), but it doesn't push the microphone/sound through the tablet. I gave up on this since I have a Samsung Gear 2 Neo smartwatch that has a microphone/speaker on it. Some day I will explore with this more.

Q: How do you power your speakers if you removed the radio?

A: I lucked out big time with this issue because my Nissan Pathfinder has the Bose System built in. That means that there's an amplifier already installed that powers the speakers. So the tablet sends the sound to the Behringer UCA202 DAC, that then converts to a 3.5mm headphone jack that then splits into the Left Front/Rear, Right Front/Rear, and dual subwoofer channels that go to the car wiring harness that then goes to the amp. This saves me hundreds of dollars. For vehicles without a stock amplifier that rely on the radio for power, that is when you will need to buy an amplifier to power the speakers. My 12 inch subwoofer also plugs into the DAC and works perfectly.

Q: I see the reverse camera, how did you get that to work with the tablet? How does the tablet know when you are in reverse?

A: There were 2 ways to get this to work, one way is by video detection, or the other way is by the JoyCon EXC. I chose to do the video detection way because it was simpler and waiting about one second for the app to open was fine with me. I use an app called EasyCap viewer.

Q: Why is there paper over the JoyCon, EasyCap, USB charger etc.?

A: The plastic pieces over the EasyCap and USB charger were bulky/broken. The JoyCon didn't come with a cover. Paper was the easiest/closest thing I had at the moment. If only I had a 3D printer. Someday..

Q: Why is the mic in the vent and not somewhere else? Doesn't the wind from the HVAC cause problems?

A: It was a last-second add-on and just put it in there without having to rewire the harness. I also didn't know where to move it that made it look "stock". I've gotten some great opinions on where to move it! Thanks for those!

I'll add more common questions here when I think of them.

Breakdown of Parts:



Price | Part
---|---
$100 | Nexus 7 2013 32GB WiFi (flo) (bought from /r/hardwareswap)
$5 | Nissan Radio Wiring Harness
$6 | AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub
$20 | Esky EC135-05 Rearview Camera
$95 | JoyCon EXC
$7 | Tendak OTG USB cable
$30 | Behringer UCA202
$7 | VideoSecu Amplified CCTV Microphone
$25 | Timur's Kernel v4.0 for Nexus 7 2013
$10 | Maxboost Car Charger
Free/Other/Already owned | EasyCap USB Video Capture Card, RCA cables, 3.5mm audio cables, USB cables, 12-16 AWG wire, grinder, zipties, paper, hotglue, other random stuff.
TOTAL COST | ~$305

TL;DR: Modified my Android tablet to work as a replacement for my radio. Worth it? YES. Best Radio Ever.

Have Questions? Ask away. Since I had to learn most this crap on my own, I can share my experience with others and give pointers in the right direction.

EDIT #1: Formatting.

EDIT #2: RIP my inbox. I would never have guessed this would get this popular. I'm just speechless. Wow. Thanks everyone! Trying my best to reply to everyone! Also added another question to this.

u/SobiGaming · 2 pointsr/youtubers

Hey Naff!! I just got back from a trip, so sorry for the delayed response! First off, I love the organization of your reply! I'm such a sucker for nice formatting and structure haha! Thanks so much for the kind words and I'm glad my feedback was useful!


  • 2a - great points and I completely agree there were a few (all reasonable) options to make this one work.
  • 3a - haha BGM will be the bane of us all. It can be so hard! Again, your levels in this one were good though!
  • 6a - I totally understand. I researched this a lot and, from what I saw / remember, I believe the Blue Snowball is great starting mic and comes at $49. There are definitely other options out there, but adding this in case it helps you guys reduce research time / get something relatively affordable. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-Condenser-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B014PYGTUQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1542600764&sr=1-4&keywords=blue+snowball

    ~

  • 3b / edit - I had the exact same issue and would have never noticed until I read something online. I'm so glad I was able to share some useful info! Again, I didn't notice anything wrong with the quality in the first place, but I was watching on mobile.
  • 5b - Oh, interesting, I've never tried recording Skype. I mostly record Discord or Battle.net for audio. If you ever experience issues, might be worth trying one of those out and
  • 6b - Hahah XD I feel like I've given a similar response to people who gave feedback to me on one of my posts when I did a one-time change as well.

    Love the mission statement! At it's core, mine is also about spreading laughs and happiness. Will try to re-collect my thoughts and let you know what I think about your AC video! At the end of the day, our videos should consist of what makes us happy, so I like your comment about not stressing out about it. :)


    You and Ric sound like good-natured, cool people. Thanks again for the kind words and hope you've been well!
u/kicgaming · 1 pointr/letsplay

Without knowing exactly how everything's being done, I believe Audacity should let you do multi-track recording. If not, give Reaper a whirl. I know for fact Reaper does multi-track audio because I used to use it when recording my band. At that point, you can play with your mic track all you want without worrying about messing up audio on the game's track. Again, I'm not sure how friendly it is to screen readers.

Once we start talking mics I go off on tangents, so I'll do my best not to. Assuming you're looking at an XLR version of the AT2020, it's a good mic. Sounds good, solid, all those things. My only concern for you would be how sensitive it is. You're currently using a dynamic microphone, but the AT2020 is a condenser. As such, it's much more sensitive and picks up much quieter noises. Clicks and clacks of controllers? Squeaks of chairs? Air conditioner? It may get all of those. Granted, they may be quiet enough that the game/commentary track will down them out, but still, condensers are less forgiving about their use and environment.

I vastly prefer dynamics (in this particular medium) for that reason. Many folks here use condenser mics without issue, while others do lots and lots of clean-up after recording. It really depends upon your setup, the noise in your recording area, and the mic itself and its positioning. If you can get an AT2020 with a good return policy, I'd go for it. I used one for quite a while (though the USB version) and liked it quite a bit. It's definitely better than a Snowball or a Yeti.

For other mic options, if you don't want to break the bank, maybe an ATR 2100 would be a good call. It's USB and XLR and, according to most, sounds pretty good. Being a dynamic, it'll be less sensitive than a condenser, but should still sound good. Otherwise, a Rode Procaster would be good (built like a tank), or a Heil PR40 would be nice (really nice, warm sounding mic), but now we're in a much different price point. And of course, being that these are all dynamic mics, you may run into gain issues as that's a common occurrence with dynamic mics. It's hard to say without trying each one individually.

The alternative is to go back to the previous message and look at something like a DBX 286s or similar vocal processor that should give you the gain you need for your Samson mic. You can likely find something cheaper that'll do the same thing, but the 286s is hard to beat for its features.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Hey, I kinda know this feeling. For a while, I'd wake up, look at my home-studio setup, and think "wow, all my shit is broken." My mic cables would hiss, my bass had a hum that I couldn't explain, guitar needed new strings, computer kept overheating...no fun. The solution was to get better XLR cables (not the cheap Chinese ones I had), replace the 9 volt in my bass/get a better instrument cable (other one had electrical tape everywhere), and use effects more conservatively.

And I understand the frustration with not having money for gear. I couldn't afford an interface for a while, so I tried singing into my digital point-and-shoot camera. I had to literally scream to be heard, and it sucked. Yeah, great musicians can rock terrible gear, but the gear you have has to at least, you know...work.

What I'd do is work, busk, or play open mics, and buy a midi controller of some type. Maybe something like this.

Hook it up to Reaper (very similar to ProTools, costs $60 for a license, but is like Winrar in that you can use it for free indefinitely.) Look up tutorials on YouTube to learn it, plus read the manual (it's basically the Reaper Bible, and it's huge). Also, the Reaper Forums and Reaper sub-reddit are great for specific troubleshooting.

Get some VSTs (plugins) to experiment with synth sounds and effects. Alchemy Player is free, Tyrell N6 is free, and Bedroom Producers Blog has hundreds of others. Uproar24 is a great YouTube channel for hearing VST demos, and usually feature all the ones from Bedroom Producers Blog.

I've copied this a few times, but I think it's helpful, so I'll share it. It's a list of some of my favorite free synths and whatnot:

u/chopdok · 0 pointsr/buildapcforme
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $359.99 @ Micro Center
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $104.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $140.00
Memory | PNY Anarchy 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $72.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $77.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.98 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card | $329.99 @ NCIX US
Case | Fractal Design Arc XL ATX Full Tower Case | $105.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $105.98 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $49.88 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 OEM (64-bit) | $141.98 @ OutletPC
Mouse | Razer DeathAdder 2013 Wired Optical Mouse | $39.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1579.64
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-14 18:34 EST-0500 |

CPU : Intel Skylake i7-6700k. Unlocked, overclockable. Technically, you can get a locked i7-6700 and overclock it using BCLK only, but you are not on a tight budget, and that feature is not ready yet. In any case, for best results, you use both BCLK and multiplier to overclock. Another option is to get Haswell Refresh, older CPU architecture, its not really that much worse, and way cheaper. But Skylakes are very energy efficient. At stock, it will run cold, especially with that cooler.

Cooler ; Noctua D15. Best air cooler that exists on this planet. Is better than most AIO water coolers, and much more silent. Check the reviews if you don't believe me. Can't go wrong with it.

RAM : 16GB DDR4, with option to add 16 more for total of 32 later on.

MB : Asus Z170 ROG series. Has surprisingly good on-board audio, so you don't really need a sound card. Has USB 3.1, m.2 . Supports SLI/Crossfire. 4x SATA ports, 1xSATA Express, 1x m.2.

GPU : GTX 970, the MSI model. You wanted power efficienty, and GTX 970 is extremely cool for the amount of power it delivers. It can run any game at 1080p 60fps with settings close to max, while producing 2x less heat than its competitor, R9 390. Also, MSI model is extremely silent, good for overclocking and has 0db feature, which means that when it is idling, like when you watch movies or do work, it will turn off its fans, relying on passive cooling from the airflow inside the case. Fans only start spinning once it exceeds 60c, and in games, under full load, it floats around 70-75c. I have this exact GPU, its really good for someone who seeks good performance but wants silence and low temperatures as well.

Case : I am not really proficient in fancy cases, with leds and all. Always preferred sleek, modest and fucntional ones. So, I put in Fractal Design Full-ATX case, which is exactly that. You can get whichever.

PSU : EVGA G2 850w. Made by SuperFlower actually. Extremely reliable, and silent. Modular.

Storage ; 250GB SSD and 1TB HDD. SSD is 850 EVO. Again, from personal experience - excellent SSD, uses SATA, and its not that far behind m.2 SSD - honestly, SATA SSD are already so fast, that you only see the difference between m.2 and SATA in benchmarks.

Also, threw in a gaming mouse, the Razer DeathAdder. Its reliable and has good sensor.

CPU+MB are MicroCenter bundle, in-store pickup only.

I am not proficient in Webcams, I use some cheap Logitech one. But I imagine that for 100$, they all good. I can recommend Logitech ones, because their drivers never gave me any issues.

As far as sound cards - the on-board audio on that Z170 is actually quite good. For professional sound work, like doing voice overs, you are better off with a good audio interface. I recommend Scarlett 2i2.

Out of curiosity - why do you want 8GB VRAM?

EDIT : Put in the wrong MB by mistake. Fixed now.
u/Cowboybeatdrop · 1 pointr/makinghiphop

I dont know if you plan to be on pc or mac. If its pc then fruity loops as others said with machine is a great place to start. If your on mac, which FL is still not available in full size i dont believe, ableton is a great program. I use ableton for everything i do, plus its great for live performance to which i think it has the edge over fl for. Its really easy to learn to. I switched from FL to Ableton and it took me about 3 hours to get re- acclimated. Theres a 100 dollar basic package for ableton if you want to buy it. Otherwise just pirate the full software package tbh. Also alot of DAW have free demos you can download just to get a feel and look. Sometimes the interface is enough to turn you off (as reason which is great did for me). Other DAWs that you can look into are Reason, Cubase, bitwig (which is new and is kind of a combo between ableton and fl) and then also apple's Logic X. logic X, if you plan to but your DAW is great bc i think its only 200 bucks which is a great price and it does alot. Idk how great it is for hip hop style of music but i doubt its "bad". It definitely has its strength in production of house music though, but learn enough and the world, or the DAW rather, is your playground. As for midi, maschine is awesome, but there are some cheap and portable midi controllers that combine pads and keys. I use the akai mpk mini mkii and i love it. I can fit it in my backpack and use it for everything i need at home as well, although i do have a full size keyboard that i use sometimes. That little beauty runs at 100 bucks. Good luck with it man! Remember though, some of the most famous artists out there started out on the shitiest equipment available. So really what its about is getting your hands on whatever you can and just having fun with it. Good luck!!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ6QAO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_BuJ8wbT2W64GE

u/fletcherjeff55 · 1 pointr/podcasting

1). Unfortunately, I don't know if I have the link to the original podcast anymore, since it was only done once before they went their separate ways. And in order to get all of my material from the school, I'd have to go through them for distribution, and I'm not sure how easily they'd allow that.

2). My available time each week is truly dependent on the week itself. I work a part time job which is not always consistent. Usually I work late afternoons Thursday-Sunday, but the rest of the days are truly just up to where I'm needed that specific day. However, I can always take a specific day off that everyone can be free on in order to ensure I am available consistently on that weekly basis. All I'd need to know is when everyone else is free.

3). When I worked on my radio show back at the school, it was a live two-hour format with a break every twelve minutes. Often times, we would take a few things throughout the week, from general entertainment news, and compile everything together the day of before the show. Not all of the show was improved by any means, but being in a live format where there are no edits definitely makes you think about what you can say and how long you can do so.

With that being said, I do edit, both videos and audio, and I'm actually working on an audio drama in my spare time from time to time (fun fact). So, I can edit and distribute with ease for sure, that's not a problem. And as stated before, I was the main lead co-host on my show, so I have no worries being heard in a hosting format. And obviously gathering content and the like go hand in hand with everything I've already said.

4). Excuse me if I'm sounding silly here, but I'm not exactly sure what you mean, but I have been up all night dealing with some family emergencies. What it appears to be is you asking me if I'd like to be on an already existing show as a "field expert" on a specific topic. In which case, absolutely. As I said, I'm not souly looking to start my own podcast from the ground up. If someone comes along and asks to take me under their wing, I'd be very interested in doing so. And of course, guests often turn into regular occurrences, so I have no quarrels with that.

5). Yes, I do. The microphone of choice I have is a Blue Yeti, which I know may be a major turn off for many people, but it's always done me well. Obviously with any mic, the environment is important, and the only main thing that hinders my sound quality is my graphics card's fan, which when in intensive use can get loud, but can easily be edited out with some simple editing in Adobe Audition, which is what I personally use for my audio editing. Otherwise, I am not set up in a sound stage or anything, but I find that my audio quality is rarely irreversible, and as long as my graphics card isn't in intense use, it shouldn't be a problem at all.

With that being said, I am considering getting this soon, but the main problem is having the money to spend on that when I'm going on vacation with my family for a week in just a few days. With that next paycheck being a little light, it may have to wait for a month or so. But it is a future investment I do have on my mind.

6). I kind of already touched on this earlier, but I mainly work weekends in the afternoon (4-10 PM Central Time), and the rest of the week is really dependent on the day, but it tends to be about the same. As previously noted, I will be going on a vacation in the next few days, which means I won't really have my recording equipment to do any recordings, obviously. However, I will remain active in whatever forum used to communicate (Personally, I find Discord to be a good communication device, if only for text). And as also previously noted, once I know everyone's availability, I can work around it with my work schedule with relative ease.

Thanks for asking these questions. I try not to shove every detail of information into my post at once, and overwhelm any onlookers. So it's good to know that there is some interest in the post.

u/Gojurn · 1 pointr/podcasting

Others have already asked some pretty useful questions, but if you're looking for more specifics here's what I know.

Recording & Editing Software

While I can't speak to resources for non-Apple tools. If you have a Mac you can start out with simply a good microphone and the GarageBand application.

Microphones and Pop Filters

If you're looking for a mic recommendation I've had a lot of success with the Yeti USB microphone. It's pretty versatile and the sound quality has been quite good. A cheaper reliable option is the Snowball. You can find mics for less than that but I can't vouch for the quality. No extra set up is really needed, just plug it in and record. Some people recommend a pop filter, they're pretty cheap and I've had a good experience with the Dragonpad ones. If you need an example of sound quality PM me, I'm happy to link you an episode I created using the Yeti mic.

Uploading and Hosting

Once you've recorded and edited your Podcast you'll need somewhere to host it so others can listen to what you've created. I usually upload the file to SoundCloud and then share the link or embed the player in my blog and website. There are a lot of other podcast-specific hosting sites out there but I've found SoundCloud to be free and easy.

Helpful Guide

When I first started out I came across a great blog article by Mike Cernovich that I followed to create my first episodes. You can read it here if you're interested (it's specific to using GarageBand though).

I hope this helps, a D&D podcast sounds great. Can't wait to hear what you create.

u/Pyroraptor · 1 pointr/letsplay

Here is a list of things that he probably will need:

  • Microphone: I suggest a standalone mic. Audio quality is very important. I suggest the ATR2100 for a starting mic. It's a USB mic so it plugs right in and is good. It is a dynamic mic, which will help reduce background noise. It has XLR capability for future expansion.

  • Game capture: if he is playing a console game then he will need a capture card. The Elgato Game Capture HD is a very versatile card. If he is playing on PC then he just needs software. OBS is a free game capture and streaming program with lots of great features and good quality. I highly suggest startign with OBS because it is free and has everyhting he will need. That way he can test the waters and determine if he wants to do YouTube/Twitch. If you want a paid program, I highly suggest DxTory.

  • Video editor: This is optional, but REALLY helps get a better quality video. If you don't already have a video editor (or are using Windows Movie Maker) then I suggest Hitfilm 3 Express which is a good program for beginners and is free. Blender also has a free video editor built in that I've heard good things about. If you want a paid program, I suggest Sony Movie Studios 13 Platinum or Adobe Premiere Elements 14.

  • Image editing program: He will need to make artwork for his channel. I use Gimp which is a free program that works well. Paint.net is another good free program as well.

  • Headphones: Also optional. Headphones really help your audio quality because you can listen to the game audio without using speakers, which would echo the game audio through your microphone. Any headphones or ear buds will do, they don't have to be "gaming" ones.

    That's all you should need. The only thing you really should need to buy is a microphone. Everything else you can find a free version that should do everything he needs and more. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to let me know and I'll help you out :D
u/MrEditor · 2 pointsr/GWABackstage

Why are there still fake-real knobs and such? Because.....

There was a long time where analog was it. It's all there was. 4, 8, 12, 16 track analog recorders. Behemoths of recording consoles. If GWA existed somehow in that day, we would all own little 2-track recorders, a small mic pre-amp unit, and a microphone. And you'd maybe have an analog EQ and compressor, big physical units that looked like this.

So when everything went digital, a decision was made. To preserve brand identity and user familiarity, they copied the physical unit into a digital VST application. Compare This real world Shadow Hills Compressor unit with The Shadow Hills Compressor Plug-in.

There isn't any reason beyond that. There is reasons to choose analog or digital, but not to have a UI reminiscent of analog units.


As far as heaphones go, I'll take you through what I own, and what I use most.

Sennheiser HD 650

Sennheiser HD6 MIX

These were gifts through a brief endorsement deal I had, and I run these through this headphone amplifier

For higer-end earbuds, I use Sennheiser IE 60's and Sennheiser IE 80's. These I primarily use for simple editing on the go, giving to performers to use on stage or using myself on stage, or for women tracking vocals or instruments who don't want to mess up their hair with big over-the-head headphones.

But, my most used setup, what has become my dream setup, and the one that I will always reach for first, is far from the priciest.

Sennheiser HD 280 Pro, run out of the computer through a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.

This is my favorite setup. The 280 Pro's are $100, the Scarlett is around $150. The headphones are crystal clear, have tight response all through the spectrum, are rugged enough to get chucked the fuck around, are comfy, and come with a great quality screw-on adapter so they able to be used into a 1/4" connection or a standard 1/8" headphone jack. Their impedance means they don't need an amp and can be used as normal headphones. They sound JUST as good as pairs ten times their price, and they have a certain special something to their super-low end and high-mids that I haven't found. Go get these today. Trust me.

The Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 isn't used as an amplifier in this case, since the 280's don't need it. It serves as a USB feed out, with a nice little volume knob. USB out will always trump 1/8" headphone jack out audio. Plus, the 2 inputs are nice to have. I own two of these units, and one always travels with my laptop for an easy, portable solution for HQ audio monitoring, easy L-R in recording from a sound board, or easy audio out from my laptop.

Together, these things have a certain magic, and I don't have to break my bank or handle them like china dolls. They're both rugged and sound AMAZING.

EDIT: I forgot my in-ear molded earphones. I own a pair of Alclair Reference IEM's. They are a great price, sound incredible for stage or studio, and I got mine with wood backs and DAMN are they sexy.

u/Limro · 2 pointsr/VoiceActing

Continuing the answer, /u/talbayne:

As mentioned above, XLR is a way to get super clear sound - more than USB.
The reason for this, is because the hardware converting the analog (actual) sound waves to digital input, called Analog-to-Digital-Convert (ADC), is better in a preamp, than inside the a usb-microphone... Or at least they used to be.

The ADC is actually just a small chip - or a part of a small chip - which are inside a regular computer chip. They have a number of input pins to register to register the sound from the actual microphone, as seen on this picture of a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 - the bigger, black chip, reading XMOS upside down.

16 of those small pins come from the first XLR-input, and 16 from the second. This is because it's a 16-bit preamp, which you can also see from this screenshot.

Now - these ADCs used to require quite a certain amount of power, but do no longer. They can now be powered by 5 volts (to convert to 48 volts) - the output of a USB-port. Or... at least some of them can, and quite a few of them do a pretty decent job.

----
Time for examples in the USB-section:

  • The Røde NT-USB ($169) review.

    I have a friend who uses this, and I have a hard time not hearing it being just as good as my own microphone (longer down the list).

  • Bill Dewees talks about the Apogee MiC 96k ($20).

    That man knows his shit - pro dude, who makes 4k a week doing voice over.

  • The Excelvan BM-800 ($25) is in the opposite price range. How can this cheap thing work? Well, like the XLR-microphones it needs what's called phantom power, which is 48 volts - this comes pretty cheap ($20)... or you plug it into your desktop (laptop won't work, I've read).

  • The Blue Snowball Ice ($45) being compared to a few others.

    This one is extremely popular with YouTubers - for a good reason.

    ----

    Well, that's all good and nice, but what about the XLR options?

    When you go XLR, you need a preamp, which provides the 48 volts I described before - also known as phantom power.

    If you'd asked one year ago I'd say 'get the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2', but that was what I knew worked.
    Today you have two other options (from the same company):

  • Scarlett Solo - $99.

    I takes only one input - but you only have one microphone, right? It converts upto 24 bits (where as my own only goes to 16 bit).

  • Scarlett 2i2 (gen 2) - $149.

    This takes two inputs, so when you plugin your guitar you get a separate channel for each... It is also 24 bit, where as my gen 1 is only 16 bit.

    Are there others? Yes - plenty, but I don't know them.

    -----

    So microphones with XLR?

  • I have a Røde NT1 (as a kit) for $269.

  • The Blue Yeti Pro ($245) are spoken of as the next step up from its little brother (USB-microphone, mentioned above).


    Steep price for a starter, right? Well, the sound from it is not too bad, and this is where you need to remember what I wrote in my previous post - Your clients want clear sound. You can get clear sound from the USB-devices as well, but there will still be some quality loss between them. Decide for yourself what you want, and how much you want to spend on it.
    This list can go on forever, but it's getting late right now, so I'll holdt that here.

    ----

    I talked about sound treatment, yes?

  • /u/sureillrecordthat has a great YouTube channel, where he posted a "booth" to record in (hear the actual recording at about 13:03.

  • If you don't have a walk-in closet, you can do as I already posted and make sure you cover the microphone from reflected sound waves.

  • If that's not an option, put up cheap panels to absorb the sound waves. They work SO DAMN WELL.

    Best of luck with your adventure :)
u/bass-lick_instinct · 2 pointsr/Bass

Any basic recording interface would do, you usually just need an available USB port on your computer to plug it in. You can find them used for $50+, but the most popular go-to is the Focusrite Scarlett.

I recommend getting an interface with at least two channels. You may only ever use one channel if all you ever do is record your bass, but having a spare channel is always nice, for example if you are wanting to record live with a friend, or if you want to sing/play at the same time, or if you want to split a stereo signal into two mono channels, etc.

For good quality recordings you basically need a recording interface, a DAW (digital audio workstation), a computer, and an instrument.

A DAW is basically a digital studio that will allow you to lay down tracks, mix, add effects, and a whole lot more. It can be a bit daunting at first, but just keep things simple, there are a TON of features I hardly ever use in my DAWs, so don't make it too hard on yourself.

The Focusrite comes with Ableton Live Lite, which is perfectly capable for a wide range of needs and will cover all the basics. If you find later on that you want more out of your DAW then check out something like Reaper. Reaper is cool because it has a free trial that never expires (it will nag you from time to time), but if you like it then I recommend purchasing a license for $60. It's an amazingly powerful DAW for the price (not affiliated in any way, I actually use Logic Pro X, but that's a bit more pricey).

Pair your new studio with a *cheap MIDI keyboard and you'll have almost unlimited creative potential.

It's amazing how powerful this stuff is now-a-days. Back in the pure analog days all this power would have cost tens of thousands of dollars (maybe even hundreds), and now you can have it all for $150 or less.

I highly recommend people getting into recording, there are a TON of uses for it outside of just making music. I use mine constantly for practicing and reviewing my playing, which has done a ton to accelerate my progress.

u/LSDoubleD · 7 pointsr/makinghiphop

To be honest, It really depends on what your budget is. If you have a $10,000 budget my recommendations are going to change drastically compared to if you have say, a $400 budget.

Assuming you want to keep price pretty low but still want pretty nice quality I recommend the following.

  • Microphone: Audio-Technica AT2020. It's a good mic for the price and most people start out on something like this or something similar. It delivers a good enough sound that you'll be happy with the results, especially considering how cheap it is.

  • Interface: Focusrite Scarlette Solo, This has kind of become the industry standard for beginner interfaces. It's a clean, simple interface. You hook it up to your computer, plug in your mic, adjust the volume and you're good to go.

  • Software: I personally started on Logic Pro X, If you have a Mac, I HIGHLY recommend it. Fantastic DAW, Arguably the next best thing to the industry's standard which is Pro Tools. Although it doesn't really matter what DAW you use. Most of them do the exact same thing, Just with different work flows.

  • Headsets: This doesn't matter that much. Find a pair of studio reference headphones in your price range and learn them like the back of your hand. Listen to tons of music on them, as much as you can. Some headphones boost certain frequencies and it's important you know what frequencies it's boosting so when you're mixing you dont add too much or too little of said frequency in.

    My one tip to anybody beginning is learn to mix and experiment. You can have a shitty mic and a shitty interface, but if you can mix well, You can make 90% of things sound at least decent and that's all that really matters in music. If you make a song that's a banger but it's not mixed that great, people will still listen to it. If you have a shitty song that's mixed by a world class engineer, nobody is going to listen to it. Don't get caught up in making sure everything sounds amazing, Just work and be creative.
u/FrankYouPrease · 1 pointr/makinghiphop

My suggestion assumes you already have FL Studio, a capable PC, and $100 to spend on a MIDI keyboard, specifically the Akai MPK Mini mkII because it's widely available and has a little bit of everything for you to learn with. I'm also assuming you have 4-8 hours everyday to spend on production-related things and that you'll use all of that time.

Day 1: Become familiar with the general layout of FL Studio.

  • Rearrange the buttons at the top of the screen (right click>edit) so that the things you'll use the most (playlist, channel rack, mixer, piano roll, audio editor) are all in one row.

  • Plug in your MIDI keyboard and configure it in options>MIDI settings to get it working with FL Studio.

  • Open FPC and learn how to map your drum pads to it, and also how to route them to their own mixer channels.

  • Learn how to link the knobs on your MIDI keyboard to the ones in FL Studio.

  • Learn to color-code your sounds in the playlist/channel rack/mixer. It sounds relatively unimportant but it's one of the most important things.

    Days 2-10: Get acquainted with your keyboard and drum pads.

  • Label the keys on your keyboard. Start with a piece of scotch tape on each key, then write the letters over the tape, then put another piece of tape over the writing so you don't wipe it off while playing. It's tedious but you only have to do it once, and having that visual aide can be helpful in numerous ways.

  • Learn some scales and chords; D and G scales are a good place to start for making hip-hop beats but there are no actual rules about it, so do whatever sounds good to you.

  • Find a scale you like and play it until you can do it with your eyes closed, then play it with your eyes closed until you can start to improvise with it. Play it forward and backward, then try playing it but skip every other note. Playing every other note in a scale can help you find chords and build your own chord progressions instead of Googling one and boxing yourself in with it every time you go to make something.

  • In FPC, create your own drum layout or find one online that makes sense to you. Once you've made or found one you can jam with, save it as an FPC preset and stick with it so you build muscle memory toward it. Change the sounds, but never the layout.

  • Start putting together a beat for the sake of learning, because you'll need it for the next phase.

    Days 10-15: Learn about common mixer effects, and practice applying them to a variety of sounds. This includes but is not limited to:

  • Compression

  • EQ

  • Reverb

  • Delay

  • High Pass/Low Pass Filters

  • Distortion

    There are stock plugins for all of those effects in FL Studio, so you'll at least be able to mess with those.

    Days 15-20: Learn Automation. It is a key part of adding motion and life to your tracks.

    Days 20-30: Make some beats, and try to use as much of your knowledge as you can in every beat. Don't take more than a day or two to finish each one, because at the beginning it's most important to repeat all of the aforementioned steps until you get to a point where you can sit down and work without thinking too hard about the technical process.

    The day numbers are irrelevant because everyone learns at a different pace, but that's the order you should do things, in my opinion.

    A few side notes:

  • At some point you should get some new sounds (drum kits, VSTs, mixer effects) and the better you are at pirating things, the more you'll have available to you, so I suggest learning the basics of torrenting as well if you're not rich or above it.

  • If you end up with a bunch of different drum kits, make a folder for all the drums you use the most so you don't have to look for them every time. Do everything you can to minimize the amount of time you spend setting up or finding things, so you maximize the time you spend on the creative process.

  • The Akai Mini is a good starter keyboard, but eventually you should upgrade to one with 49 keys so you can play a wider range with both hands and learn more advanced piano/keyboard techniques. When you get to that point, I highly recommend the Akai MPK249 because it would also be an upgrade to your drum pads and give you MIDI faders to automate things with as well.

    Hope this helps, even if it's not exactly what you were hoping for.
u/y0y0ma · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I've heard of their 3020, but supposedly the Concept 20 is the same driver in a different cabinet? The What HiFi review makes it sound like the cabinet alone is worth the price difference. That could be true, but I am not going to rely on their word for it. I think it would be best if you could arrange for an audition or, better still, buy them with a good return policy so you can send them back if you are not satisfied with them. This is the most reliable way you could test out 2 speakers because you know best what is important for you. As for bass, it is also part of the music and I feel a faithful reproduction is essential to the experience. I do not own a subwoofer myself because I am satisfied with my MB Quart 490 and their 7.5" woofer. The bass is present but not overpowering at all and it makes all the difference when listening to Pink Floyd or The Coup.

Anyway, what I meant was the audio files will be converted from digital to analog at one point. In your case, it would be the PC's onboard solution. Now, depending on your PC, your onboard solution could be great or it could suck (distortion/constant hum etc.) ! To get around this some people use the digital output on their PC (USB/HDMI/Optical) and the conversion is performed using another device. Since usually stereo amplifiers do not have any way of accepting digital input, the go-to choice is a separate DAC like Fiio D03K / Behringer UCA202. Some people also a get a headphone DAC like Fiio E10K because they need a portable amp for their headphone in addition to a DAC. Others may need more than just a DAC - for example there could be a need to take the HDMI input and send the video to a TV and the audio to speakers. This is where a receiver comes in. A receiver is basically an amp + many more options for inputs, but it could be overkill if you only need a DAC. Used receivers could be cheap, though, and they are quite popular because of the input options you get. Goes without saying that you may not need a separate DAC at all, but just something to consider.

Phew! Hope that helps! :)

u/ArpinArp · 1 pointr/letsplay

Just thought I'd throw in my personal set up as well, if you want to explore multiple options

Capture device/software: Elgato Game Capture HD

The Elgato is incredible. It's very simple to use and comes with all of the cables you need. It's capable of capturing in 1080p which is a great plus. The software that comes with it is very easy to use and works very well. One of the best features of this capture card is that the files that it makes are remarkably small considering their quality. I'll record like an hour and a half of 1080p gameplay and only end up with an 18GB file but the quality still looks perfect.

It allows you to capture your voice from a microphone at the same time that you play, but I like to be able to change the volume on my own later so I use Audacity as well. The software also has integration with Twitch if you want to livestream, however I haven't used this feature yet.

Overall, the elgato might be a little bit more of an investment but it's DEFINITELY worth it. You'll get great quality and it'll make recording a lot easier. It also has support for legacy consoles and since it uses HDMI/component it should be compatible with the next generation of consoles as well.

Microphone: Blue Yeti

I use the Yeti but there are cheaper options by Blue that also have fantastic audio quality. If you're looking for something on the cheaper side, go for the Blue Snowball hands down or maybe the Blue Nessie. The Snowball is one sale right now on amazon and it's definitely worth that price. A lot of commentators over look audio and just use their headset or laptop mic. In my opinion thats a huge mistake and for many people that will make or break whether or not they enjoy your video.

As far as video editing goes, g4video is right, Vegas is the way to go. But its expensive software. Elgato comes with editing software as well which seems like a good start if you can't afford Vegas as well.

u/TuFFrabit · 7 pointsr/HuntShowdown

Ok, so you need a mic as well. Alrighty. I'm going to suggest you go a different route than pretty much what everybody else is suggesting. I personally dislike the all in one headsets, especially if they're marketed as "gaming", double especially if they are 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound.

If your priority is actually hearing things in game, and determining direction and such, you are better served with a stereo set that emphasizes the mid range and high end frequencies while de-emphasizing the low end. Low end boosting is an inexpensive way for manufacturers to make a cheap set of cans "sound" expensive, and while it can make movies and some music sound great it's not amazing for gaming.

Here we go with a 100 budget. I'm going to give you a buying list for a standalone set of headphones paired with a separate mic setup:

u/thepensivepoet · 6 pointsr/Guitar

Ableton is a great DAW and is my preferred software choice for recording/editing.

You can use the TASCAM to capture your performances and transferring those .wav files into Ableton for editing but you'll have a much better experience recording directly into your computer.

You can go a few different routes here. You can pick up an audio interface that accepts an XLR connection for a proper microphone like a Presonus Audiobox and an SM57 which will allow you to capture as good a single channel signal as you can really get outside of a big recording studio.

OR you can go with something cheaper like a Blue Snowball USB microphone. These things actually sound surprisingly good and have multiple settings for directional and omni modes for different situations.

Once you have a way of capturing audio directly into Ableton you can start building up your songs layer by layer. Experiment with things like EQ and compression/delay/etc to make your guitar tracks sound nicer. There are built in patched in Ableton for EQ like "Acoustic Guitar" or "Electric Guitar" and just dragging one of those onto your channel will be a great place to start.

That's a skill in and of itself but you have to start somewhere so start experimenting.

When starting out applying EQ to tracks I'd start this way :

  • Solo the track so you're only listening to the single layer

  • Create a single EQ filter with a high Q value so it creates a really sharp and thin "peak" and drag it upwards so it's amplifying a very narrow band of frequencies quite a bit.

  • Drag that "peak" left and right while the audio is playing and listen for something that jumps out at you as unpleasant. Now drag the peak DOWN to bring those frequencies down in the mix to remove whatever harshness you discovered. Bring down the Q value to make that trough a bit wider and smoother.

    Do that 3 or 4 times on a channel and you'll have something that sounds a bit nicer. If you do too much it'll sound hollow and empty so make subtle adjustments as much as possible. Don't dump that "bad frequency" all the way to the bottom, just bring it down a little bit so it doesn't jump out at you.

    You won't be creating drastically new tones this way, just polishing them so they sound nicer.

    Having a good pair of headphones or even some inexpensive studio monitors will also be extremely helpful so you can accurately hear what you're producing.

    Use the built-in metronome and record with headphones (so the click doesn't get picked up by the microphone) to keep things tight.

    Once you've finished your audio and it's how you like it THEN film your video and just play along with the click. Don't use any audio from the video recording and just pair the two back up in editing.
u/exscape · 6 pointsr/Guitar

With a sound card made for studio usage, lag/latency shouldn't be a major issue. Some basic knowledge is required to set it up, but that same knowledge is required for any sort of computer-based recording, so it's easy to come by these days! There's tons of materials about this online, but I'll write a brief summary (not to be considered a tutorial!).
(I'm assuming Windows usage here. For Macs, the default sound card may be good enough -- it was in my 2006 and 2011 Macbook Pros. Apple's Core Audio API is really good for a OS stock one!)

You need a sound card (or: "audio interface") with good ASIO drivers. In practice, that means one that is designed for studio use. That doesn't have to mean anything very expensive, though. The cheapest ones are about $100-120, but a pretty decent one is probably more like $180.
A few examples:
FocusRite Scarlett 2i2 (a 2nd generation is on the way, so I wouldn't recommend this right now. Also, I returned my Scarlett 2i4 due to having issues.)
Roland Quad Capture (the one I use personally)
Presonus AudioBox 22VSL

The sound card you already have might work well enough with the ASIO4ALL driver, in which case you may be able to use the hardware you already have.

Once you have one of those, you install the drivers and set up the ASIO latency or buffer size (different names, same thing) to some low value. You might have to tweak this -- having too low a value will cause dropouts as the computer doesn't have time to apply effects and so on before it's time to move the sound to the speakers.

With that in place, there are a few ways to go. You need some sort of effects (like amplifiers, cabinets, delays, EQs and so on); the easy way to do this is to use some package. I mostly use Guitar Rig for this, but there are plenty of others, such as AmpliTube and Peavey ReValver. There are fully free options as well, e.g. the LePou plugins.

You can use those in several ways. The simplest would be to use a simple audio editor, like Audacity. Another way would be to use a DAW (Digital Audio Workstation), i.e. an application used for recording music, with tracks and mixers.
I use REAPER for that, as it's about $60 and I still prefer it to ones that cost ten times as much. Other popular choices are Cubase, Logic (Mac), Pro Tools, and so on.

So, yeah, it's a bit of an involved process... but once you're there, the main difference between playing for fun (to a track or by yourself) and recording an album is clicking the record button before you start playing. :)
As for cost, that really varies. If you're lucky and your sound card works well with ASIO4ALL (or you have a Mac and that works well), you can do this for free. If you need to buy a sound card and want to use the software legally, you might have to pay a few hundred bucks for the combo.

u/RapidMMA · 2 pointsr/audio

Ok, Thank you. Here is a similar setup to what I use. My personal one is a bit more sophisticated but nonetheless, these items will certainly get you started and aim you in the right direction.

-

Let's start with the Mixer:

Your mixer will be your new interface. Rather than plugging one microphone into your computer you'll plug all your microphones into one mixer which then will be connected to your computer via USB.

Microphone - Mixer - Computer

Here is a good starter at a decent price. It'll be your most expensive single piece of equipment (unless you decide to get top tier microphones). You'll be able to EQ and set levels to each microphone hooked up to the mixer before sending it to Audacity (or Audition, Reaper). You can also hook up more than 3 mics, a guitar, your phone, maybe you want to hook your computer up to it to play a sound, basically anything that sends one signal to another, you'll be able to do it with this and record it.

  • Behringer QX1202USB 12-Channel Mixer

    -

    Next Microphones:

    If you're able to hook up a mic cable (XLR) to your Blue Yeti, you can still use that microphone, too. Obviously, switch your polar pattern to cardioid that way it's more directional and doesn't pick up as much room noise. Also, try to point it away from your AC unit. Regardless, since the Blue Yeti is a condenser microphone, it'll pick up more room noise because it's much more sensitive. That's why in broadcast situations you'll always see dynamic microphones such as the Electrovoice RE20 or Shure SM7b. For your own sake, I would do some research on condenser vs dynamic but any website you shop at (or if you go to Guitar Center in person) you can filter microphones by condenser or dynamic. I highly recommend buying yourself 3 dynamic microphones to reduce room noise.

    Here are my microphone recommendations:

  • Cheap - Behringer XM8500 - You'll likely need a mount and windscreen or pop filter
  • Low - Shure SM58 - You'll likely need a mount and windscreen or pop filter
  • Mid - Rode Procaster - No mount, windscreen/pop filter necessary
  • Best - Electrovoice RE20 - No mount, windscreen/pop filter necessary

    -

    Finally, your Accessories:

    You'll need 3 XLR's to hook 3 microphones up to the mixer. I recommend purchasing them from monoprice.com - very cheap cables that last a long time if you learn to wrap your cable correctly.

    Same with your microphone stands:

  • Simple Tripod Microphone Stand

    Most microphones you buy will come with the mount for it. If you get the Behringer XM8500 or the Shure SM58 you might need one of these if it doesn't come with it:

  • Mount

    Also, for both of those mics I definitely recommend buy either a pop filter or wind screen to put over top to reduce plosives. If you don't know what plosives are, google it. You wont need to worry about plosives if you purchase the Rode Procaster or RE20.

  • Windscreens
  • Pop Filter


    One very last thing to mention is headphones. Through the mixer, there is a headphone jack where you can plug headphones in to monitor the mix. However, there is also something called "Main Out" or "Control Room Out" - you can send your vocal mix to an external Headphone Amplifier/Splitter that way you and your friends can all listen to the mix in real time.

    Audacity is a good program but I recommend getting familiar with Reaper The trial version is free version and I think after the 60 day evaluation you're still allowed to use it although it may press you to buy it. I personally use Adobe Audition but that requires a subscription. If Audacity works fine for you, then by all means.

    I apologize for the long post and I hope it's not too overwhelming. Mixer, Microphones, Cables, Stands, and headphone splitter is basically what this whole post is about! Feel free to ask questions.

    If all else fails just find a podcasting kit to purchase from somewhere and go from there http://www.bswusa.com/Podcasting-Packages-BSW-Internet-Radio-Going-Pro-Kit-Dual-P10534.aspx
u/BangsNaughtyBits · 2 pointsr/podcasts

OK. The Scarlett 2i2 that was recommended is likely the best audio quality for the money but is explicitly limited to two audio inputs/mics. It is also not appropriate for multiple people and Skype.

If you were talking about only local hosts there are several options from mixers to audio interfaces to dedicated recorders. Introducing Skype or similar means that you will need a Mixer or higher end audio interface.

Question, what will you be recording to? I assume a computer, a laptop or some such. Will you want a separate audio track for each host/skype guest? It's cheap to do this with two people. Getting the separate tracks for three or four moves things up a few hundred dollars.

If you are willing to edit the tracks with the audio not separated when you have three people on at a time, you will need a mixer. The base model to look at would be a Behringer Q1202USB (~$100, prices will be US off Amazon unless you provide a different suggestion). There are other mixers that cost more. I myself own a Mackie ProFX12 ($280 for the V2 current model). There is a wide price difference based on reputation and perceived quality. You likely would not see a difference but similar mixers can go over $1000. The Behringer will work for what you are going.

Now, if you want an audio track for each of up to four people, then you are talking about the Scarlett 18i8 ($350) or the Behringer UFX1204 ($400). The Scarlett is more complicated in this case as it is a software controlled Audio Interface and the Behringer is virtually identical physically to the other mixers I mentioned. I currently use the bigger brother to this Scarlett. This is the price point to get three or four tracks recorded simultaneously. It can help in editing but may not matter all that much to you.

I love the Audio-Technica ATR2100 and it's sibling mics as a starter mic but do not suggest them in your case as you will be starting with a mixer or interface. I would suggest on a budget a three pack of Behringer XM1800S mics ($40) or move up to the Shure SM58 ($100 each). The Shure is a rock solid standard mic. The three pack of XM1800S mics are knockoffs of the SM58 and do not sound bad. Without going to >$300 a mic I think those are the best options.

Pop filters can be either the foam balls like the Shure A58WS ($6, multiple colors available) or actual pop filters like this for $8

http://www.amazon.com/Dragonpad-filter-Microphone-Flexible-Gooseneck/dp/B008AOH1O6/

Actual pop filters are slightly better but bulky. The Shure wind screens as thicker than other cheaper versions for other manufactures and I suggest them.

Stands depend a lot on what you want. They should have a 5/8" end (there is a 3/8" standard as well. Everything I mention will be threaded for 5/8" but there are adapters.). A desk stand like the On-Stage DS7200B ($13) or the On-Stage DS300B ($18) are nice enough. There are also floor stands, boom arms. Depends on what you want, really.

The cables will be Balanced XLR cables. Depends on the length you need. These will be ~$10-15 for a reasonable length. Any decent brand will do.

The Behringer mics have basic mic clips included. I use an On-Stage MY-420 shock mount ($31) myself on each stand instead to reduce vibration transferred to the mic. You can see if that's needed or not and use a basic mc clip instead.

Software depends on what you are comfortable with from the Free Audacity

http://audacityteam.org

To Reaper to Adobe Audition. Really, what ever the editor likes. There are lots of software suggestions I could make. It all depends.

When doing a Skype call, I like using the Behringer UCA 202 (or UCA222, different color, $30) and two RCA to 1/4" TS unbalanced cables of the shortest length convenient. Use this as the audio device for Skype and connect it to the mixer/interface.

The Sony MDR7506 ($80) are industry standard headphones. I use an Audio-Technica set myself. You may need a headphone preamp to split the signal to three phone like the Behringer HA400 ($25). Really these are to your taste. There are cheaper phones but it's a question of budget.

Did I miss anything you are looking for?

!

u/heyskater137 · 2 pointsr/letsplay

I'll just leave feedback as I'm watching through your video:

  1. Should have cut off the first 5 seconds. Start at the intro, not slightly before the intro.


    2.Video quality is fantastic! Audio is good as well, but could be greatly improved by a pop filter! Here's one that we own and I would recommend http://www.amazon.com/Dragonpad%C2%AE-Studio-Microphone-Flexible-Gooseneck/dp/B008AOH1O6/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1426227634&sr=1-1&keywords=pop+filter


  2. Your commentary is sparse and brief. It's a bit too slow for my taste. With commentary I usually prefer to have someone who is reacting to the game all the time, forming and sharing opinions, giving the viewer a sense of what they're thinking at pretty much all times. Not everyone shares this opinion, but it's definitely mine.

  3. Same thing on your outro as your intro. End it on the outro, don't include yourself exiting the game. And I would recommend Getting some outro music or playing the intro while actually asking people to like comment and subscribe. The animation is solid, much like your intro, but these things need sounds too!

  4. You're off to a good start with your thumbnails. I would recommend working on branding so that people can spot that videos are yours from the thumbnails.

  5. Your facecam doesn't really add much to the video. Use it to emote more, and add to the commentary through visuals (facial expressions, hand gestures, etc.). Either that, or consider ditching it entirely.

    You're off to a good start here. I notice you're pretty new, but it seems you're heading in the right direction!
u/lpmagic · 122 pointsr/buildapc

these:

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54

u/forrScience · 1 pointr/Guitar

https://www.amazon.com/IK-Multimedia-digital-guitar-interface/dp/B01KPYGBR6 - this is what i bought (at 100$, its 84 now), because i wasn't sure if i wanted to play on the go or at my desktop. it also comes with amplitube (though a watered down version) but i got really sick of all the nickle and diming they do. It turns out i play almost entirely at my desktop so i would have gone with something like this instead: https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1500654678&sr=8-7&keywords=focusrite+usb+audio+interface .

you could technically accomplish the same thing by getting a converter for 1/4"->1/8" jack and plugging it into your soundcard, but it has a lot of issues and sounds shitty. The audio interface essentially takes the signal from your pickups and makes it clean and readable for your computer. With this (often called DI or direct input) signal, you can use software that emulated the circitry of tube amps to produce very very accurate replications of tones.

https://www.positivegrid.com/bias-fx/ here is the sim i would recommend. I played around with a few others but this is the best sounding, and most straight forward one (others try to nickle and dime you all over the place). it's nice because you can get a week trial of it before u have to buy too! Basically you only need a guitar, instrument cable, audio interface and a computer. you can get free trials of everything else before you buy to see what suits your needs.

there's a million demos of it, but here's a good one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8D00Xn1vfyU

The beauty of all of this is that these all interface seemlessly with digital audio workspaces (DAW's), which are used for recording. You can setup each track to have different amp/effects/ect and can also play around live with the effects for practicing. I often use these for writing too, because i can record a rhythm section, then loop it and noodle around with leads or harmonies (essentially making a looper pedal that sounds way better than any pedal on the market). there's a ton of videos that can help with all of this, I would suggest checking out Ryan Bruce (aka fluff) on youtube, he has a couple entry level recording tips videos! I'm happy to keep talking about this if you have any questions! break through that bleek streek!

u/_fuma_ · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

As the saying goes, the juice isn't worth the squeeze.

You may get a DAC that locks onto higher sampling rates from the source, but it's probably not worth sinking more money into, especially because you're streaming normal bitrate audio from iTunes, or playing locally from your own compressed music files.


Right now, you're using the Core Audio Apple driver in conjunction with the iMac's sound chip, then you're taking an optical signal out and decoding it externally with a cheaper DAC (I assume you're using a mini-toslink optical connector in the 3.5mm "headphone" port?). So you're using two devices.

Honestly, I'd be curious to see if you can notice an improvement (or difference) using the iMac's internal DAC by using the actual 3.5mm analog output from your iMac vs. using the external DAC with SPDIF. This way, you'd be using the DAC inside the iMac instead of a cheapo external one. Macs have decent audio onboard. You should try it!

If you were to step it up from that, and use something like Spotify HiFi or play high res 24bit 96KHz (or higher) lossless audio files as the source, then perhaps a USB interface/DAC would be a worthwhile investment. USB, Firewire or Thunderbolt (which it doesn't have) is the best way to completely bypass the internal audio on any PC/Mac. A USB interface / DAC become the audio "card" with its own power supply and dedicated circuits.

The easiest, and least inexpensive one would be a Focusrite Scarlett solo interface... it can do 24bit/192KHz just fine, and works wonderfully with macOS, plus gives you a volume control, an amazing mic preamp, instrument level input and a headphone amp, in one box.

Usually under $99 from most pro audio retailers:

u/orzof · 1 pointr/headphones

Yeah, active noise cancelling headphones cost a bit more than other consumer grade headphones since it's a pretty big Back of the Box feature. The very best in isolation is going to be in the form of IEMs. I can understand not wanting to have things jammed in your ears all day at work, but if you find a pair with a good fit for you, they can block out everything, especially with a comfortable foam tip. Maybe check out the Mee 6 Pros and pick up some Comply foam tips if the silicone tips are uncomfortable for you. Really, a good tip can make a big difference on any IEM. I have a preference for foam, but those have to be replaced a bit more often.

If you'd rather a full sized pair, there are a few options, but since you don't care too much about sound, the important thing to look for is clamp force and the pad material. Clamp force is pretty obvious, you want tighter for more isolation. As for pad material, leather/pleather with soft foam or memory foam inside is gonna be the best for blocking out outside noises.

As for recommendations, I would probably look at the Audio Technica ATH-M40X, though the ATH-M50X do go on sale for $99 occasionally. I only mention that because I've read more opinions on the M50Xs because they're a bit more popular around here.

Now, as a disclaimer, my recommendations are largely just based on things that are spoken of positively around here, but since you don't care too much about sound, the important thing is fit and comfort which can potentially be found on an off-brand headphone for cheaper, but not knowing how your ears and head are shaped, that's something you'll have to figure out as you go. At least Amazon has a pretty forgiving return policy.

I hope that helps and feel free to ask anything else you might be wondering about.

u/Blueman826 · 6 pointsr/Bass

What they are using is an interface, a DAW and possibly an amp simulator on their computer.Basically an interface is a box that you plug your instrument or mic into that goes into your computer. It turns the analog signal of the instrument or mic into digital information that the computer can read. These can be worth a hundred dollars to thousands of dollars depending on your needs.

The bass signal would then have to go into an amp simulator for the direct input signal to be heard like it's played through an amp. These amplify and change your signal just like an amp would do, providing a full sound for your guitar/bass. These are can be worth anything from 0 dollars to a couple hundred and each has its own sound and quality.

DAW stands for Digital Audio Workstation and allows your instrument or mic to be recorded along with other tracks and instruments. These allow you to record songs and covers but also allow you to use tons of effects including compressors and eqs, amp sims and midi instruments.If you simply want to play and/or record your bass through your computer I'd recommend getting a simple 1 input interface like a Steinberg UR12 or a Focusrite Scarlett Solo. The Focusrite would have a higher quality build and sound, but the Steinburg will still get the job done. A great DAW would be REAPER, as it is completely free to use but will request a licensing of $60 that you do not have to pay. And there are tons of great free amp simulators online, but there are some really nice amp sims for a bit of money. I'd suggest checking out This list of free sims and checking out the other paid amp sims including Bias Fx and Amplitube.

Good Luck!

u/blackking023 · 3 pointsr/Reaper

So as another 29yo musician figuring out reaper over the past few weeks. Definitely watch tutorials, how to's, and basic use videos from youtube and stuff posted here. You'll learn way more from doing that faster than you will from poking around. Most of the time i just google something like "Reddit Render Midi track in reaper" and i'll get a link to this sub with a video.

Definitely get an audio interface, i'll help tremendously with overall sound and latency. I think something with two channels will work well for you. You'll most likely only be recording one instrument at a time if you're doing this solo but the option of the second channel will let you record an acoustic performance if you ever want to. I have no brand loyalty so here's a few options, you can do research on them as you see fit or search some out yourself:

UMC202HD , Scarlett 2i2 , AudioBox USB 2x2

Or if you need to be more budget friendly, this guy is a great bang for you buck, however it is only one channel:

Behringer UM2

If you dont have any 1/4" headphones, pick up a 1/4" male to 3.5mm female adapter as well so you can monitor your sound and for playback through the interface. You can find these at bestbuy or somewhere local pretty easily.

You'll want to look at some 3rd party VSTs for effects instead of your phone. I'm currently in the process of trying different free things out, so i don't have too many suggestions unfortunately, but maybe some other people can chime in with their favorites. I'd watch youtube tutorials to learn how to setup and use these. two I could recommend so far are:

MT Power Drumkit 2 - Simple drum VST that allows you to pick from a select of beats in different styles, then once you import them into reaper you can change the beat with the MIDI editor as you see fit. Watch some youtube tutorials on it to get going using it.

AmpliTube Custom Shop - Comes with a few amp, cab, and effect options that should get you going with some guitar sounds. You can also get the demo version of AmpliTube Full and it will run for 30 min, then you have to close and reopen it for it to work again (seems to be a common setup for demo versions of VSTs), but you can get a good bit in 30min if you know what you want going in.

u/IMissMyZune · 7 pointsr/makinghiphop

I'm assuming you have a physical location to record & some type of computer.

Do this:

Get ahold of $100-$500. Buy a microphone & either some really nice headphones or some studio monitors (i recommend headphones if you can't do both). My first mic was a Blue Snowball. I love using my Audio Technica headphones. Probably not gonna win you any grammys but it will teach you some things until you can afford a better setup.

OBTAIN... in whichever way you see fit... some software to record on called a DAW. From the free software Audacity to something like Logic Pro X or Studio One. Just get one. There's hundreds of tutorials on youtube on how to use them. You're also going to want to get some Vsts. Google will be your friend for this section lol.

Practice making songs on here in the cypher & collab call threads. There's also a billion beats on youtube that nobody's going to know you used if you just keep it between yourself and some friends.

Do that for however long it takes for you to feel that you're good. There's plenty of forums out there like gearslutz and this one and some others that you can get info on.

When you feel like you're good start buying beats and all that stuff. Until then you're going to have to practice and learn what you sound like and what makes a good song otherwise it'll be a waste of money. It's much cheaper to collab with people though...

For networking if you make a good song and start sharing it with your friends it'll get around since you're still in high school. That's already 2k potential fans & they all have people that they know. Start with them. It's NYC and the world is much smaller than you think...

EDIT: Also never pay to do a show and stay on the lookout for scammers.

u/3agl · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

If you're interested in music and audio like I think you are, a hardware solution will also allow you to do some cool stuff, like hook up a turntable and get good recording quality to play old LPs and digitize them.

Looking at some of the audio interfaces (not amps, those are different. Audio interfaces hook up to your pc via usb and control audio there) it looks like you'll be hard pressed to find decent ones under the $100-150 range.

behringer, $50, mixer

I have the big brother for this one so it shouldn't be too noisy. If you're recording try to use a denoiser afterwards, but I don't notice too much of a difference (could just be my room creating the noise)

Focusrite, $150, audio interface

I keep hearing about the scarlet from other producers. I don't know why, maybe it's pretty good. Also look at the itrack solo for $80

Steinberg, $100, audio interface

Look at the 2 in, 2 out version as well, it's more in line with the focusrite

Mackie, $99, audio interface

presonus, $79 (ione), $150 (itwo), audion interface.

Check amazon for "itwo presonus" and you'll find a couple of bundles that may pique your interest.

My mixer, behringer, $150, mixer

I like this thing alot, it's got plenty of inputs, and while it is a tad noisy it's not enough to notice. Could just be my ambient room/computer noise that I don't hear. Anyway, with some cables and advanced routing it's turned out pretty damn good for streaming and chatting at the same time, you just have to use multiple inputs to your pc to have separate audio outputs it only took me a week of poking around (no manual) to learn and figure out everything. The compression and eq settings are also a bit nice to have.

BTW if you're getting xlr mics, some of the best ones are sm57's/sm58's by Shure. Usually $100 and they're solid enough to last you a while. I have a sm58 and it's ballin'.

Hope I was of help!

u/LBriar · 1 pointr/edmproduction

A desktop is going to be more robust and upgradable - more powerful cpu for the money, more max ram, more inputs, more storage, etc.

A laptop is portable. That's really the only advantage, but it's a huge one. From gigging to sitting on the couch to field recording, never underestimate how big portability is.

Realistically you'd want both, which one you pick would be how you value your tradeoffs. If you already own a laptop (most people have something these days), that might be plenty for the few times you'd need to move around. Or if you already have a pretty great desktop, maybe you'd rather do a cheap ram upgrade and then put the rest of the cash in a nice laptop.

For specifics: ram, cpu, drive, connections. Those are going to be your main concerns with a computer. RAM is going to allow you a larger buffer for things like samples and simultaneous tracks. CPU will determine the amount of real time processing for VSTs and plugins. Drive space is where you keep it all. The faster the better - an SSD for actual working storage and a large HDD for long term project storage is ideal. Connections are just things like USB, Firewire, whatever. Not hugely important unless you're using outboard equipment that requires it. Most everything is USB these days.

For a real basic outline: any computer made in the last couple years is probably ok. i3 or i5 cpu, 4-8GB ram, 250GB SSD/1TB HDD would be a really cheap, basic setup, and will work just fine for Ableton/FL/whatever. Ideally, you're going to want the fastest/most crap you can jam in there - i7 cpu, 16 or 32GB RAM, 500GB-1TB SSD/2-4TB HDD (or combo thereof). It's super easy to add drives and ram after the fact, so there's that. Don't feel like you have to do it all at once.

You're also probably going to want some kind of audio interface. A Focusrite 2i2 is a basic USB audio interface that will get decent quality sound in and out of your computer for a low price. If you want MIDI, you'll need a different/beefier unit. There's lots of USB interfaces out there. Check out M-Audio, Behringer, Presonus and a bunch of others.

u/AntarcticanJam · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Here's a short lists of what you need to start recording:

  • Computer
  • DAW
  • Audio interface
  • Microphone/instrument

    Computer: I'm assuming you already have this, it allows you to do work.

    DAW: stands for Digital Audio Workstation, and this is where you'll be doing most (if not all) of your work. A popular and cheap option is Reaper, but you can also use a less powerful (and free) program like Audacity. I would recommend starting off with a "full featured" one like Reaper (which I believe has a 30 day trial period?) because if you do end up getting really into it you'll be glad that you have a bit of background knowledge. Some might argue that certain DAWs are better than other, but it really boils down to personal preference. All DAWs can allow you to have multiple tracks going on at once, for instance, overlaying lyrics over an instrumental track.

    Audio interface: this is the hardware that sits between your computer and your instrument/microphone. It allows the signal from the microphone to be converted from analog to digital which the computer can interpret. If you're just starting out, go with whatever you can find on eBay or Craigslist, but make sure it has what you need (correct number of input/output, USB or firewire connectivity, phantom power if you're using condenser mics).

    Microphone/instrument: without this, you won't get far. The microphone you linked above I think is generally used for vocals, as most condenser microphones are. A solid recommendation that a lot of people give is the SM57 dynamic microphone for micing cabinets or instruments; some people even use it for vocals (myself included, 'cause honestly, it gets the job done).

    The link that you gave looks like has a microphone and a DAW, but no audio interface. I think this might be because the microphone itself has some kind of hardware on the inside to be a plug-and-play, using your computer's motherboard as an interface. So for now if you wanted to use that package for recording instruments and vocals with that specific mic, you're good.

    My personal recommendation to start writing music without breaking the bank that will leave you a lot of flexibility going forward:

    Interface: some random 2-input audio interface with decent reviews Keep in mind that you would only be able to use dynamic microphones on this, as condenser require 48v phantom power.

    Microphone: simple dynamic mic

    DAW: I highly recommend trying out the 30-day trial of Reaper, but like I said, this is all your preference.


    Bottom line: the Blue Yeti All-In-One can get you started, but it has limitations (no audio interface) if you want to start getting deeper into it.

    Sorry if this is a bit rambly, I'm at work and kept getting distracted while writing this, let me know if you need any more info or clarification.
u/tilldrop · 23 pointsr/Reaper

I teach music production as a side job and from what I have learned, the hardest (in terms of most confusing, not time consuming) yet most important part of getting into music production, is to fully understand the DAW itself.

So don't give up, there are tons of others who have been in your situation.

Personally, I usually approach two things: signal flow and user interface. You'll want to fully understand what gets send where and how to find that place in your software.

You'll want to have a basic understanding of what MIDI data is and what the difference between MIDI, an analog audio signal and a digital audio signal is.

Oversimplifying a little bit MIDI is a data protocol that sends information - usually information like notes being played, at what velocity etc. or controller data (MIDI CC). This data is not to be confused with an audio signal. The Akai keyboard for example uses the MIDI protocol to communicate with Reaper.

Now since MIDI does not contain any audio, but you want to make music, there is something needed to make an audio signal out of the MIDI data you can play on the Akai keyboard. For this, you can use any soft- or hardware synth, sampler etc. These programs/hardware will use the incomming MIDI data to trigger oscillators or play a sample - usually at a certain pitch, depending on the MIDI note's data.

It looks like you already figured some of this out, but didn't quite understand how it worked. Now, the software synthesizers work exactly how you imagined: They are loaded into Reaper as Plugins (usually in VST-format, but can be JS, AU, or other). For this to work, you'll have to tell Reaper where to find them. So I suggest you install them into a common folder and tell Reaper where to find that. (Options->Preferences->Plugins->VST->Add folder via "Open", than "Rescan".)

The octapad can output both, MIDI and audio. Now it really depends on what you want to get from it. Do you want to sounds from the octapad? Or do you just want to use it as a controller to trigger some sampler plugin in Reaper? Depending on that, you'll either need a MIDI to USB interface or a audio to USB interface. There are also interfaces that do both, audio and MIDI. And also interfaces with more fancy features like

  • multiple inputs (audio for synth/mics/guitar or MIDI),
  • (multiple) outputs (to attach speakers to)
  • zero-latency monitoring
  • phantom power for condenser mics
  • better pre-amps for less noise when recording
  • etc.

    Your computer probably even has an audio interface built in without you ever having thought about that. It'll probably not have many features, will not support phantom power, will have not gain adjustment for incoming signals etc, but it could work with your octapad if it has a line-in.

    I'm happy to help, but your questions are very vague. Just try to tinker. Experiment, create basic rhythms, work with audio and with MIDI, explore ever feature of Reaper, bit after bit, and you'll soon feel much more comfortable. Getting comfortable is the most important step, since you'll want Reaper to be your laboratory, your tools, an empty canvas. At that point, you'll be able to truly focus on the music. So take your time :)
u/GODDZILLA24 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

(For tl;dr just look at the parts in bold)

I'm not the first nor will I be the last person to say this, but pretty much every brand is gonna be on this list. Personally, I've never had a large issue with any brand, nothing of the caliber to make me not buy from them again.

I feel that you should avoid certain products or product lines. Here are some things that I avoid/know of, for your consideration:

  1. Gaming headsets are nearly always garbage. Get yourself a nice pair of headphones, and a separate microphone. Here's my setup. I use the products right below. They're all fantastic, I've been using them all since last summer, and am happy to answer any questions about them. I also know some good alternatives.
  1. In general, a cheaper product is more likely to be lesser quality. I know, this isn't true for every single product, but that's why you should always do your research on something before purchasing it, no matter what it is (tip for being a smart consumer).
  • Example: Corsair's cheaper line of power supplies, the CX line, is of lower quality than their RX series. I've used both, and have had issues with neither, however I have heard of people having issues with the older CX series (it was revised, I think in 2015?). The RX series is more expensive than the CX series, but has higher quality components, and a higher effciency rating. Do your research.

  1. Since it is the most controversial brand on the list: Razer is a very hit and miss company. I have had 3 of their mice: The Deathadder Chroma, the Lancehead, and currently the Basilisk. I loved the Deathadder, but I decided to upgrade when the Lancehead came out, after trying it at Best Buy (the wireless version). Ended up not liking the Lancehead after 6 months, it didn't fit my grip well (and wireless version has a more "premium" material that's super sleek, looks nice, but isn't grippy enough for my taste (their usual material is better). So I ordered the Basilisk off of their website right when it was released (October 2017), after doing a fair amount of research, and I love it. No issues with the mouse so far. The software used to control it, Razer Synapse 3.0, is still in development, so it's pretty broken right now (it's shit currently, forgets my profiles from time to time, but I only change sensitivity so it's not a big deal), however it doesn't look like gamery trash like 2.0 did, so it's an improvement. I also had an OG Black Widow with Cherry MX browns that I found at Goodwill - worked good as new, ended up selling it to a friend, he still has it, it still works - I think it's about 6 years old now. tl;dr not everything Razer makes is shit.



    The 1TB Western Digital Blue HDD is probably the most popular component that I have never heard critizism for.
u/Popsqawle · 1 pointr/headphones

I need advice.

 

A bit of exposition,

 

I've been searching for a new pair of headphones a few weeks now since my previous pair of Skullcandy IEM's were damaged by my cat chewing through the wire.
 

It's been an overwhelming experience searching for a pair, as this will be my first set of "quality" cans; and, admittedly, I'm not very knowledgeable in this hobby as many of you on /r/Headphones seem to be. Asking here is a last-ditch effort to get a bit of support and questions answered.


 

  • Budget: I'm working with a budget of about $100. $120 being the height of what's able to be spent currently.

  • Source: My source is going to be standard PC on-board jack. Nothing fancy. However, I am looking into buying a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 2 In/2 Out USB Recording Audio Interface to go with my new microphone. I'm not certain if it is are compatible with headphones or not. Still learning and researching.

  • Isolation: I'm often alone, so, sound leaking isn't a serious issue for me. There also isn't very much noise around me beside my PC cooling fans.

  • Form-Factor: I'd like a full-size headset the best, a small form-factor isn't that important to me.

  • Tone: I'd like a balanced set of headphones tonally.

  • Past Phones: My previous headphones were nothing of note and quite cheap. The nicest pair I've had was this previous set of Skullcandy IEM's... but I wouldn't consider them to be audiophile quality, as I am looking for now, since I can finally afford something of that nature.

     

  • Uses: My main hobby is gaming. It's likely that will be the main workload of these headphones. Extended wear-comfort and positional sounding is very important to me.

    Very limited voice and instrument recording monitoring would likely be a use as well, if possible.

  • Preferred Music: I also greatly enjoy listening to music and I have quite an eclectic taste; finding headphones that are not very fatiguing for long listening sessions and are flexible in their music profile are important to me.



     

    In all things in life, I value versatility. I have limited funds, so having a jack-of-all-trades set would be ideal for my needs. It doesn't have to be the best, that said, quality and clarity are still substantial qualities I look for.

    Research has pointed towards three sets of headphones that I am currently considering, which are the Sony MDR7506, Audio-Technica ATH-M40x, Beyerdynamic DT 235.

     

    Pros and cons of these pertaining to the roles I'd like them to fill?

     

    Any input on them towards my needs would be wonderful! Any other suggestion within that price range is also very welcome.

     

     

     

     

    TL:DR; Need versatile and comfortable headphones that are within a $120 range.
u/Reddit4Play · 5 pointsr/rpg

You're going to have a few options here.

The first is obviously a headset. This is by far the easiest solution, since it's all-in-one headphones and microphone. The headphones are isolated from the mic, too, which means you don't need to worry about echo or picking up any noise otherwise coming out of your speakers.

Since you say you'd rather not wear a headset, though, that's out of the picture, I guess.

The next best option, I think, is some combination of headphones and mic (it's more of a pain in the ass to set up, since the components are separate, but it might get you a bit more quality, too). If that's not possible, I guess speakers and mic is it.

As for the microphones that you can pair with whichever sound output is your choice (speakers or headphones), you have a few options there, too.

The easiest of these are basically designed as PC peripherals that use either USB or 1/8th inch analog line in ports. Pretty much anything that comes up when you search "desktop mic" on Google will fit into this category. From general consensus, one of the best of these mics is the Blue Snowball mic. It's got very good quality and it's relatively cheap as far as high end desk mics go, and the USB format means it's usually easier to get working than the line in kind. If you want to get really fancy there are some good lapel mics out there, too, but frankly unless you're roleplaying on your tablet while walking around your house you can probably make do with a desk mic.

Beyond this stage is what might be termed "professional mics", at which point you need to become concerned with knowledge of condenser vs. diaphragm, phantom power, and audio interfaces (largely because your PC doesn't have an XLR-in port, which is the cable these microphones almost always use). This is probably somewhat above your price range and needs. If you really want I can explain more about them, though.

So now back to your specifics -

> I'd rather not wear a headset.

Headset's the easiest, but any mic paired with headphones is just as good (albeit more annoying to configure). Mic + speakers will often get you echo and unintentional pickup, but there's not much you can do about that as the end-user since echo cancellation is usually handled by the VOIP software and not your microphone.

> I'd like to be able to just talk normally and have the microphone pick up what I'm saying.

All microphones do this, since if they are turned on they are always transmitting data to your computer - including whatever you happen to say. Not all software does this, but if you configure your software of choice to pick up any noise over a given threshold (including a threshold of 'always on') you will get this effect.

> Ideally something that works in such a way that even 'push-to-talk' becomes redundant.

I'm not sure what this means. If it's important and I haven't covered it yet, please feel free to elaborate.

u/Condawg · 3 pointsr/Harmontown

I prefer Reaper to Audacity, but that's just personal preference. I find it waaaay easier to edit. It's not free, but it has a pretty much unlimited trial with no restrictions other than a box telling you to buy it when you open the program. Should you get use out of it though, you totally should buy it. It's cheap as hell for a DAW and worth every goddamned penny.

I use an Audio Technica AT2020, which should be a decent step up from your ATR2100. If you want a leap up, the Shure SM7B is one of the best mics you can get, but it requires a shitload of gain so you have to make sure you get a mixer or audio interface that can support it. Since I can't afford to get both a new mixer and a new mic, my next mic will likely be an Electro Voice RE320 dynamic microphone, which seems like a great mic for the price.

Making your audio sound better is not a cheap venture. Once you start your way down this rabbit hole, be prepared to spend a lot of money over the years on it. I'm a voice-over artist, and most of the money I make doing that goes right back into my setup. This room needs audio treatment, I need a better mic, I need better isolation, maybe a full recording booth, but god damn I could build that myself for a fraction of the cost, but will my mediocre craftsmanship be worth the savings? etc etc etc.

If you're just looking for a good setup for a podcast, an XLR AT2020 and a Focusrite Scartlett 2i2 should keep you satisfied for a while. Make sure you also get a pop filter, and good XLR cables.

u/Hi__135 · 1 pointr/audiophile

1. Budget

I don't have a budget since I'll be saving for each individual necessity for the long run, though I would not spend more than $1,000 for speakers. That being said, you can make a decision on what are price points for each respective item.

2. What are you looking for?

I'm essentially looking for a living room audiophile set up. I would not mind recommendations other than floor standing speakers, but that is what I have now and I'm very pleased with the way it looks. I do not know what I'm looking for since I'm not sure what should be upgraded and what is missing.

3. How will you typically be using the gear?

Mid-Field

4. What gear do you own?

Specifics, I have a Yamaha RX-V381BL Receiver with a pair of Pioneer CS-N575 speakers. For headphones, I only use an Audio Technica's ATH-M40X, which I was recommended because I'm not to fond of having a mobile headphone amp with me.

5. What do you intend on using for a source?

I'll be using a laptop connected via HDMI to the receiver (unless someone thinks I should opt for a different source if I get a dedicated stereo receiver.)

6. What material will you be using your gear for?

Dedicated for music. I would like it to connect this system with a laptop and/or television, though I'm willing to not go through that route.

7. Are you willing to buy used?

Yes, I am willing to buy used, though craigslist, etc. is not preferred. Something like Amazon would be nice. Local: Los Angeles.

Thoughts:
I really like how my system sounds and how accessible it is at the moment to my needs, but I know I would really like to have a nicer set up with higher quality sound. I do not know anything about amplifiers, DACs, tubes. etc. so if you could inform me, that would be appreciated.

Note:

This was re-uploaded for further suggestions and aid. I'm not too new to audiophile but I never have owned my own full set up. Any information would be very much appreciated. Thank you in advanced.

u/meeeow · 1 pointr/headphones

Full disclaimer, read through the sub but know very little about headphones.
I'm looking for a pair of over the year headphones with isolation and maybe noise cancelling. Currently in betweent TH-M50X and some refurbished Sennhiser Urbanite XL (Indeed, tons of refurb jobs here ).

  • Budget - Around £80 but will stretch, no more than $120 or so - but would love if I could get something cheaper.
  • Source - My android phone/macbook.
  • Requirements for Isolation - Yes please. London commute, open plan office, bedroom by a noisy road. I need to be able to switch everything off. They sounded crap, but being able to switch the noise cancelling on/off on the Souls was pretty dope. Over the ear for sure.
  • Will you be using these Headphones in Public? Yes yes yes
  • Preferred Type of Headphone - Over-ear
  • Preferred tonal balance - I'd love for it to sound rich and to be able to pick up different detail/tonality. I know it sounds odd but when I hear music on friend's who knows about this shit set-up everything sounds enhanced and creamy. I'm a bit sensitive to high-tones. I lived with musicians and often, after a few hours of listening to music/guitar it literally scratches my ears... I tested the MX50s instore and it sounded a little quiet to me? The MX40s couldnt even drown out the sound of store...
  • Past headphones - I tried to look for the exact model but it's not available anymore, it was basically a mid-range, Skullcandy earbud set. Wasn't a huge fan to be honest - super fragile, broke really quick and their customer support was dreadful. Sounded nice enough but I'm looking forward to hearing what a half-way decent pair of headphones can do.
  • Preferred Music - Shit, I do listen to a lot of different stuff. I guess mostly house, ambient and similar electronic, but then throw in some bossa nova, samba and rock in the middle.
  • What would you like to improve on from your set-up - As much as I love music its just not a facet of my life I spend a lot of money on so sound wise, I want an upgrade from the bare bones, with isolation/noise-cancelling if possible so I can switch off my commute/coworkers and busy road by my bedroom. A solid noob pair that will keep me happy for a while and is sturdy and preferably somewhat portable.
u/LapisNLazuli · 2 pointsr/Twitch

XLR mics with phantom power for the win! If you're going for professional quality sound, save your money and invest in a good XLR mic.

​

The problem with USB mics like Blue Yeti is the fact that they use the integrated sound on your computer's motherboard. If your motherboard's sound system is older (2 years or older), the voice from the USB mic could sound robotic or it might not capture your entire voice range. This is especially a problem for folks with deeper voices. On older computers, you might sound far away or your voice could break up. If you have a brand new computer, feel free to use a USB mic until you can afford an XLR microphone.


XLR microphones require phantom power. Scarlet Focusrite (https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM) is a good product for phantom power, but there are affordable, good quality sound mixers that provide phantom power as well. Alot of streamers have used Berhinger Xenyx 302 ( https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-302USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B005EHILV4) or Berhinger Xenyx 502 (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B000J5UEGQ). I personally use Roland VT-3 (https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q) because it's a voice changer, sound mixer, noise gate, and phantom power all mixed into one machine.

​

For mics, I admit I'm using a cheap Pyle PDMIC58 . (Hey, I got this XLR mic for free with my Best Buy points. I didn't have enough points for a good mic). My problem with the mic is that it's too bright for my voice, and I have a low voice for a woman. I need something that captures my full voice range alot better. I'm planning to upgrade to a RODE NT-1 mic (Not the Rode NT-1A) before the end of the year.

Like others have stated, take your time and do research. Don't rush! Find the mic that fits your voice best. Good luck!

u/brokenbirthday · 2 pointsr/FL_Studio

Okay, get a better mic and pop filter. I would recommend the Blue Yeti (it's super well-priced for the quality), and you can really use any old pop filter. Look around a bit for tutorials on cleaning up and processing vocal tracks.

Now on the actual subject. Personally, I tend to prefer dense hiphop production, à la El-P, but I can definitely recognize when it's well put together. The mixing is pretty decent actually; levels are pretty good and nothing is glaringly out-of-place. I would try to increase the stereo width a bit, but that's just me. Otherwise, the song itself is pretty good and you obviously have the technical talent. Just keep writing making music. Here's a link to a really long, but really good mixing tutorial. I highly recommend it, if you're interested.

u/squidthesid · 1 pointr/letsplay

I definitely agree with you on game selection. I see so many people in a YouTube Gamers Facebook group covering the same games as PewDiePie, JackSepticEye, Markiplier and wondering why they don't grow at all.

I do think that it's fine to make videos on a game if you're new if you have a niche. For example, the PC version of NieR: Automata has a lot of issues, and there are plenty of user mods to alleviate those issues (by using the FAR mod, among other tools). Not many people have video tutorials on those (and none at the time I made the video, I think), so I made some tutorials on those.But that requires some research and knowhow on the game you're covering.

Between three of the videos, I have something like 7.5k views, which is not bad for a fledgling channel like mine (and I didn't really promote the videos on social media).

The AT 2020 is something you might want to link to in your article. I'm happy with my Blue Yeti, but I've heard people prefer the AT 2020.

I'd throw a shoutout for Hitfilm 4 Express as a great free video editing tool. It does pretty much everything you need to out of the box, for no cost, and you can buy reasonably priced upgrade kits to get fancier effects (I think the starter pack is worth the 10 bucks, but I didn't need it).

It doesn't seem to support MP4s with multiple audio tracks (only selects the first one), but if you're using audacity to record your mic, this isn't too much of an issue.


As for scheduling, really good information there. I actually didn't know that information about alerts.

I'd say game specific sub-reddits are fantastic for views. I do a lot of Warframe stuff, and if one of my videos gets popular there, I can easily see 10x the views on a video.

But yeah, great article as a whole and a good intro for newbies.

u/davou · 4 pointsr/synthesizers

Heya guys, I dug through the faq and even did that website but Im still a bit lost.

I work in an office where I'm not allowed to have a computer or a phone at my desk; and I'm not allowed to connect anything to the work systems.

Apart from that I'm pretty much allowed to do whatever I want while I idle waiting for work to happen.

I've decided that I wanna try and learn to play some keys and maybe make some beats while I idle; with that in mind I have some requirements on a synth/keyboard.

  • It needs to work without needing to be plugged into a computer while I play (putting sounds on it from a computer before I play is fine, since I can do that at home)

  • It needs to have a headphone jack so that I can jam without upsetting people around me/distracting people.

  • It needs to be compact and not a full sized unit.

    Apart from that here are some things I'd like for it to be able to do also, but wont fuss over.

    line in would be cool, so that I can play along with music from an MP3 player
    Drum pads would be awesome.

    I was looking at something like this but Im not sure if that will run without having the comptuer plugged into it.

    That thing is just about the perfect size and layout for what I want; Quality isn't so important since this is going to be mostly a time waster and quick try at something. If I find I like it, I will get something better down the road. I also realize my needs and wants are pretty specific, so I'm not opposed to spending some money.
u/WildDoktor · 2 pointsr/VoiceActing

Awesome; then /r/JohannesVerne 's suggestions would be great...and you could upgrade to the umc22 (less self-noise, I'm told).

Also, you'll need better headphones. Your Logitech are probably fine for gaming and pleasure listening, but not mixing VO work. I'm learning that most gaming headphones really boost the bass, and you need headphones with a super flat response for mixing your VO work. Look up a video where they compare a raw VO track with a processed one and listen with your Logitech cans...you probably won't hear much of a difference. Then buy a pair of Sony MDR7506's and listen again. Wow...what a difference! You won't use the Sony's for "pleasure" listening, so keep your Logitech set for that.

A better mic could possibly give you *worse* sound quality, because it'll pick up *everything*. So you'll also need to tighten up your performance and your room if you want a better mic to help you sound better. "With more mic comes more responsibility", or something like that! :-)

All that said, I think it's awesome that you have a budget and a passion, and I say "go for it"!

u/brettmac808 · 2 pointsr/Twitch
  1. Microphone

    https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2020-Cardioid-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B0006H92QK

  2. USB Audio interface Option #1 (Has RCA + 1/4 inch balanced)

    This is the golden standard for high quality Mic input as well as output. The audio drivers on the Scarlet models are simply crisp and clear. There are other options that work, but like a bicycle...they all ride different. This is simply the very best without a doubt at your price range. You could easily spend $500-$700 on an audio interface, but for youir streaming needs, this is literally perfect

    Note, this is what I utilize for my Stream, and get compliments on the professional audio quality of my Mic almost daily.

    https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56EA/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1525297509&sr=1-1&keywords=scarlett+2i2

  3. USB Audio Interface Option #2 (Has RCA outputs only)

    *Next best option, if you do not plan to run to Speak Monitors like KRKs or Mackie's. This will give you the same quality of audio input from your Mic. But if you are planning to use Monitors, the 2i2 above will give you the best output audio quality being that the 1/4 inch is balanced audio.

    https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1525297603&sr=1-3&keywords=scarlett+solo

    Trust me. Anyone who knows what they are talking about when it comes to audio, not just streaming...will agree. LMK if you have any questions...happy to help.
u/Lyzerfex · 1 pointr/ZReviews

If you want portability, the the Cyrus Soundkey or Audioquest Dragonfly red are your options. I use the Soundkey, and it's brilliant. The soundstage and clarity is vastly improved. Then again my daily drivers are the Audio-Technica ATH M40X. For a DAC + amp, then the Teac AI-101DA. It's a bit pricy, but however it's a good DAC amp. I don't have it, but I have heard mostly positive reviews on it, also Zeos, our legend, has reviewed it himself. If you are on a tight budget, well the FiiO - E10K Olympus, has got you covered. It's a really good amp+DAC for the money. A lot of positive reviews. If you are gaming, the Senhiser GSX 1000 is there. What I she said in here are the best in each section.

Links:

Cyrus Soundkey: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B073RFVHVY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720112&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=cyrus+soundkey

Audioquest Dragonfly red: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DFMV4NQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720178&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=cyrus+soundkey&dpPl=1&dpID=41JaKxrUrfL&ref=plSrch

Senhiser GSX 1000: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LDTP484/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720216&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gsx+100&dpPl=1&dpID=41ermQbCqAL&ref=plSrch

Teac AI-101DA: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UGYFWQC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720282&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=teac+ai-101da&dpPl=1&dpID=41dClv7EX-L&ref=plSrch

FiiO E10K Olympus: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LP3AMC2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720327&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=fiio+e10k&dpPl=1&dpID=41Taa5DTsKL&ref=plSrch

By the way. If you want, buy a fucking pair of Audio-Technica ATH M40X: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HVLUR54/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720404&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=audio+technica&dpPl=1&dpID=41gFqXe5oBL&ref=plSrch

Zeos found the M40X'S brilliant.

I hope I helped you out, if you have any queries, reply to this comment. Good luck in finding what you want.

u/SirHitler · 1 pointr/headphones

Look for the original ATH-M50 for around $80 USD refurbished, or a new M40x. The newer models are awesome but rise above your budget by a bit, with not too huge of a performance difference. The Sennheiser HD419's are a great deal right now, and are nice, sexy, and comfy, albeit with a fragile headband. 439's and 449's are also good budget options, especially on sale like they are now. Sony's MDR-7506 is a phenomenal industry-standard pair but might be a little more clinical than she'd like, as they have a mid-range boost for monitoring pro audio. MDR-V6 is a tad warmer and more musical, but just as detailed. Also good to note that the sony's are pretty much indestructible, and fold and bend nicely while the sennheisers can't bend much at all.

u/MoogleMan3 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You can have a killer setup for under $500.

Mic: Audio Technica AT2005 - A great mic that a lot of let's players use (draax, zueljin, kingdaddydmac, etc.). It also accepts xlr or usb inputs (more on that at the end). I use the atr2100, which is the same mic, just different color and warranty. The at2005 is cheaper by about $25 right now, so buying today, that's the one I'd get. It's a dynamic mic, so it blocks out sound that's not in front of it. Much better for noisy environments. Condenser mics like the blue yeti will pick up a lot more background noise. Other mics I've used are the V-Moda Boompro, which works with most headphones that have detachable cables (in my case the M100s) and sounds good, but changing the cable for when I didn't want to use the mic became old pretty fast. You can leave it attached, but then the boom mic is there all the time. I've also used the antlion modmic 4.0 and can't recommend it. It has white noise unless you use a usb soundcard, the cable is stiff and it's kind of expensive compared to full fledged mics. $56

Stand: Pyle PMKSH01 Suspension Boom Scissor Microphone Stand - A decent cheap stand. Nothing special, but it comes with an integrated xlr cable. I use this one, but may upgrade to the Rode PSA1 ($100) later on. The shock mount will not fit the at2005 however. $21

Shock Mount: On-Stage MY420 - A great shock mount that fits the at2005/atr2100. Shock mounts reduce noises from bumping your desk or tapping on your keyboard; things that may reverberate to your mic. It might not even be necessary if you're not a heavy handed gamer or if your desk is made of a thick, dense material. $25

Wind Filter: On-Stage Foam Ball Windscreen - Reduces wind/breathing noises as well as minimizing plosives. Not a complete necessity, but extremely cheap and it does help, so why not? $3

Cable management: Velcro One-Wrap Cable Wraps - I use these for keeping the usb cable for the mic attached to the stand. Extremely useful and cheap. $6

Headphones: Very subjective to user preference. I prefer closed vs open for noise isolation. Here's what I've used:

Audio Technica ATH M50: Good (not great) headphones for ~$100. Considered the standard by many, but to me they're just good. $155

V-Moda M100: Excellent sound with very potent bass. They make the M50s sound muddy in comparison. HOWEVER, the M100s have a design flaw where the "wings" (the parts above where you adjust the headphones) will crack over time. It happened to two pairs of my M100s. Unacceptable for the price of these headphones, regardless of how good they sound. $222

Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 80 Ohm: Amazing. Potent bass like the M100s, but even a bit clearer. Very wide soundstage for closed headphones. I paid $219 for mine and don't regret it a single bit. I might grab another pair at the price they're currently at. $150

All that adds up to around $261 + tax choosing the DT770s, and will be a killer setup for gaming. Far better than any "gaming" headset, and it even opens the option of streaming or let's play videos (the reason I got my setup). There is one more thing I'd add though, given the budget if you're serious about mic quality, and that's the $99 Focusrite Scarlett Solo 2nd Gen. It's a usb audio interface that accepts xlr mics. It gives you a bit more control over the audio coming out of your mic and cleans up the signal so you get less "noise" from the usb interface. Quality is good without it, but with it, it's noticeably better.

Hope this helps some! I spent quite a while researching things when I put my own setup together. :)

u/TheUncleShow · 2 pointsr/VoiceActing

You have TWO options

1)If you have cheap motherboard and dont have add-on sound card and you dont want to buy any equipment, the BEST one bar-non, praised in every review is Samson Q2U, it has both USB interface [so you dont need to buy anything extra] and XLR port so you can upgrade if you want like buying 50-70USD Mixer or USB Audio Interface or if you have good sound card 10$ XLR to 3.5mm cable and record directly to sound card in 24bit/48hz, you should Yyoutube search its model name and see big YT channels benchmark it and listen to their vocie.

On Amazon USA, its 59.99 for microphone with cable and there is "secret kit" for 62USD with free Samson Studio headphones and anti-wind ball

Mic: https://www.amazon.com/Samson-Handheld-Microphone-Recording-Podcasting/dp/B001R747SG

Bundle for just 3$ more: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWN32HI

2) If you have good sound card, or you want even better sound for same price then the 20$ Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 Dynamic Vocal Microphone is the best in this category, its not worst then Samson Q2A it just dont have USB, nor cables bundled so its cheaper, its just the microphone and plastic box, you can also search in YT and listen to reviews.

Then you also buy 40USD BEHRINGER Audio Interface 1x XLR/TRS 1x 1/4" 2X RCA USB, Black 1-Channel UM2, and for 60USD you have the best cheapest combo possible, just dont forget XLR to XLR cable, they go from 6 to10-15USD depends on length, Amazon Basics cables is great option, quality, but you can buy whatever you want, but amont cheap cables Amazons are known quality, no gamble.

So i guess it all comes to 70USD with the cable and youll have semi-pro beginner setup.

In any case, if you going to record on your desk and will do keyboard typing you want some space, you may add 23USD Microphone Boom arm that screws on to the table and has your MIC on it, you can lift it up when you dont use, also microphone "improves" sound quality because you wont have to touch the mic and it wont pass your touching noises or keyboard typing to the mic and it comes with Pop filter bundled.

Personally I was going to buy the first one but decided to buy the second one with XLR to 3.5mm cable since my sound card is good and will allow me 24bit/48hz and even 96hz recording

Also if it wont be good trough my sound card sicne it was so cheap i can always add good USB Audio interface.

Mic: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KZAKS

Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMIT1YK

Audio Interface: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EK1OTZC

Microphone arm/Boom with Pop filter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JHCL3KS



P.S. No matter what, DO NOT BUY ANY MICROPHONE TYPES Except Dynamic! Otherwise you'll be cursing yourself.

Dynamic doesn't need phantom power [its a separate headache that most mics need 48v phantom power] and its the least sensitive type made for Voice, when you talk it will record just you, all others, especially the USB popular Blue brand mics will record your scratching, air conditioner, your cat, your neighbors and mouse farts across the street, they all good to use-in Audio treated room, when people isolate the room for audio or audio booth, in regular peoples room, Dynamic mics is the Best way to go.

u/Solarbg · 2 pointsr/podcasts

In all honesty I think any mic should work out. all you have to keep in mind is that although the mic does play a big role, the DAW (editing software) plays an even bigger role. I recorded my first 10 episodes with this set up. unfortunately the audio quality is different from one episode to an other but thats only because i tried different things while I edited the audio.

​

The mic is the Neewer-700. I'm from Canada so this is the link i got it. hopefully you can find it where you are located

https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Professional-Broadcasting-Microphone-Adjustable/dp/B00XOXRTX6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536802291&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=microphone&psc=1

​

The mic in this is technically around 20 dollars. this mic is a more sensitive mic so you will need to play around with your gain (the knob on your mixer or audio interface) that changes the sensitivity of your mic.

​

I strongly believe either one of your choices will work out great. work with what you have and as you learn new things you will realize which direction you want to go with your audio. That was honestly the way I learn how to do it.

​

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask me. I would be more than happy to help out a fellow podcaster (keep in mind im also new at this and still learning new things).

​

Take care,

u/Doneuter · 1 pointr/letsplay

Hey McDaddy,

Great question!

I'm doing something similar and have some advice for you.


The big thing that you're going to be looking to invest in is Audio equipment. A phone can be used as a camera if you would like a facecam.


As far as audio goes, you're probably going to want to go with a Preamp and a condenser Mic. This will allow you to work from the preamp, and fine tune the audio before it even gets recorded in the computer.


  • A great and Affordable* preamp that I have used for a while can be found here: Behringer Xenyx Q902USB


    This Preamp simply plugs into a USB slot on your computer, then you plug in a mic, preferably with an XLR cable in order to be able to use the features of the Condenser Mic.


  • A good, and extremely cost effective condenser Mic w/ Vice Arm and Pop filter can be found here: Neewer NW-700


    This DOES NOT come with a straight XLR Cable, so you would need to buy one was well, but they run about $8-10


    IF that is not affordable enough (We're looking about the $120-150 range currently), you could go with a cheap USB Mic. Someone below suggested a Blue Yeti mic, which wile good quality, is honestly not necessary.


  • I suggest this mic, which is what I used before working with Condenser mics: Samson Go Mic


    Beyond this, the only other thing that I could think that you may need beyond a computer would be a capture card, but ONLY if you are recording from a console. Even then you most likely only absolutely need one to record from a Switch or something that is from a previous generation of consoles.


    With decent internet you can stream a PS4/XB1 straight to your PC using PS4 Remote Play App or the Xbox Console Companion App respectively, which you can record in OBS.


    Feel free to DM me if you have any questions!

    *Not exactly the most budget friendly, but it's a great value for what you can do with it.
u/jejetteaway · 2 pointsr/reasoners

I have Reason 7 and a Mac Book (13 inch, non retina, 2012). Everything is just fine and projects from Reason 3 can be used with no problem.

When I was buying a Mac Book the retina was like $600 more than the base model so I went with that, and I'm glad I did. You don't need a retina display to make music.

Also I use an external display, so I never even open the Mac (actually I could probably have just bought a mac mini and it would be the same).

So, you're an engineer...be careful - just get a limited rig and then start making music. Do NOT start reading about everything that's available, your engineering brain will take over and you'll never get around to making music - instead you'll just fall into gear acquisition syndrome.

I would also advise getting the following:

A bluetooth Mac keyboard, a blue tooth mouse, and 4 or 8 rechargeable AA batteries (the batteries are key), and an external display.

For monitors a pair of Jbl LSR305. These seem to be the best "bang for your buck" monitors and in online reviews people will not shut up about how good they sound for $150. Avoid Rokits.

As for midi, I'd say get a good midi keyboard and a good set of drum pads. If you want cheap and easy I'd go for a nanoPad2
If you want something a bit more involved (and actually this is what you should get) go for the padKontrol

You'll need keys. Since you say you're a composer you'll need at least 49 keys (61 and 88 are obviously better, and best). When I was buying stuff the MPK49 was pretty much the best thing you could get (except for the pads). The MPK249 is coming out soon and supposedly has better pads, but we'll see.

And finally an audio interface. I have an Echo Audiofire4 which isn't made anymore (btw it's fucking awesome so if you can find one used, do it). It seems the focusrite 2i2 is the most popular choice among newbies...personally I'd go for something with more inputs. RME and MOTU seem to the best but you'll pay a lot more (though in the long run it's worth it).

I would also say, go slow. There are a ton of cheap midi controllers (like $50-$100) so just get one, see what you like and move on from there. DO NOT cheap out on your audio interface. Your audio interface is the most important part of the whole chain.

So, Reason 7 on a Mac and an external display/mouse/keyboard, some keys and pads, an audio interface, and a good pair of monitors and you're set.

Hope this helps.

u/BelusOfficial · 1 pointr/OnePiece

Since I saw other people wanting to do voice acting and you yourself might be unsure about what gear to buy, here is advice from a musician:

Try to practice with what you have, when you start to feel more secured about your skill, try to buy a better microphone, do NOT buy a condenser microphone, those are too sensitive if you are starting out, buy a dynamic microphone instead!

Recommended microphones, both made by the brand 'Shure':

SM58

SM7B (If you really can afford it)


To be able to use a microphone that is from an XLR cable to maintain quality you need an audio interface, there is a market solution that brings you to a prosumer level very cheaply and it is called a 'focusrite scarlett solo' it is one of the cheapest but also most durable and stable interfaces in the industry that is worth having! You can hook your electric guitar too if you want to.


The interfaces:


Focusrite scarlett Solo

Focusrite scarlett 2i4 (If you really can afford it, options like the Pad button make it amazing for general use outside of recording)


Now you need a DAW if you want to upgrade from audacity, a DAW (Digital audio workstation) is your workfield, it is what provides you what you want in terms of FX or samples (if it delivers them)


Good cheap DAWs:

Reaper by Cockos

Ableton live 10 intro (more expensive but you get more fx to it, it is less userfriendly for beginners from my experience though)


VSTs are what you will be using in your arsenal for FX and voice processing, you got tons of free VSTs that work like a charm and you got tons of paid ones that obviously work better but you can get them for cheap at plugin boutique! or sign in for emails of the sellers! PM me to request the list for free VSTs, if the demand is high, I'll make a list for it here and edit the post!

The plugin boutique website

u/glenmoyes · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

Shure PG58 Mic $59. Good cheap mic that I used for years until I retired it for no reason other than I wanted two mics and could afford a more expensive one.

Behringer XENYX 502 Mixer $45. Really all you need this from is the preamp, but for the price it's cheaper than any decent stand-alone preamp I've seen. As a bonus you get a mixer (!) so you can record your bluegrass band...or...something. Also the EQ for the mic is a bonus I guess, not that your speech recognition will care. The Shure PG58 is a little bassy though, so you can use the EQ to tone that down a bit.

Stereo 1/4" TRS to Stereo 1/8" TRS cable $6. Plug this into the headphone jack on the mixer and the other end into the microphone jack on your soundcard. Then turn the 10db boost off on your soundcard. (FYI if you end up getting this, the only volume knobs you need to worry about is the upper-left white knob for the mic gain, the lower-left one for the channel volume, the Phones knob (which is your output) and the Main Mix knob. All those together will all affect the volume of what you hear going out.)

Microphone Scissor Arm Stand $16. I don't personally own this one but it comes with the necessary mic clip holder for a dynamic mic (most other stands of this type only come with the gear to hold the larger condenser mics). Also it's a lot cheaper that other stands, which means the cable in it is probably cheap, and some reviewers say the stand doesn't hold up the weight very well. This is the one I own but I don't use the shockmount that it came with. You'll need something like this to hold your dynamic mic. So that route would be $58 total for a better stand. Anyway, good news with either of those stands is the XLR to XLR cable is included, which you'll need to connect your mic to your mixer/preamp.

So in total for the mic, preamp, cable, and desk stand you are looking at $126 or $168 for a better stand and XLR cable.

I'm sure all of these products I linked to on Zzounds are available at Amazon too. I was just lazy and found the ones that were on my blog/browser history. It also reflects where I got them. Erm, except for the Mixer; I got that at my local Guitar Center because it was the same price.

u/jrizz43 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I have never owned an XLR mic but when I researched, everyone says XLR is better. I don't know about that but the at2020 is a great microphone especially for $20. If you can get a power supply and mixer and stay under the price of the yeti, I would do that. BUT the Yeti, which I have, is great in its own right. Super easy, USB, plug and go. As far as the arm, you don't need it but it is a great upgrade. I got this and it works perfectly fine.

It is nice to have the mic off of your desk and easily out of your face if it is on the arm, for that price, it's a no brainer.

u/DrProfJohnson · 2 pointsr/letsplay

I'm just starting out so I may not be the best help but here it goes...

We've done videos so far with either 3 or 4 people. We use the Blue Snowball Microphone and it's been pretty fantastic thus far. It's works great in groups.

We have that mic plugged into a MacbookPro (Which is hooked up to the TV) which is running the capture program Screenflick. Screenflick is pretty phenomenal and quite simple to use. The one issue is that it records both game audio and mic audio into one track so any kind of ducking or advanced editing isn't going to work.

That was our initial set up and it worked pretty well, however we ran into the issue of the mic picking up TV sound which made the videos sound... subpar. So I picked up a Belkin 5 Way Audio Splitter which has been working flawlessly so far.

I have a relatively simple set up but it's been pretty powerful so far. Let me know if you have any questions! :)

u/smushkan · 2 pointsr/videography

The Amazon Basics Video tripod (make sure it's the video one with the pan handle) is a good starting point, $23.49. You'll need some sort of iphone to tripod adapter too - they're available at price points from a few dollars to a few hundred dollars. No need to overspend if you're just starting out.

I'd recommend you keep that iphone on a tripod at all times - it's so small and light that hand-held footage will be shakey and offputting.

For lighting, assuming you're in a bedroom-sized space then a 3-point photography CFL lighting kit like this will be great. Nice, soft light which will make whatever you're reviewing look good. Cheap too - $46.99

Although I may be biased, I think sound is probably where most of those funds should go. People will happily watch 240p, grainy, blocky, blurry video on youtube but if they can't hear what you're saying then they're gonna switch off.

For piece-to-camera shooting I'd recommend getting a Rode Smartlav for $71.90. You can plug that straight into your iPhone for sync sound recording.

I'd also suggest getting a large-diaphragm microphone for voiceover work - i.e. whenever you're not filming yourself while talking at the same time. The Behringer C1-U is a great budget option that plugs directly into your computer's USB port for recording for $59.99. You'll need something to put it on such as a Suspension Boom ($17.99) and to make sure your audio is clean you'll need a pop filter. ($8.99)

So that's the very basics covered for $157.45 give or take though you can probably get that cheaper if you shop around. That leaves you $242.55 for some more specialist gear...

Depending on what you're reviewing, I'd recommend looking at lightboxes (5-walled cubes that you put the product in to give yourself a white background and even, soft lighting), and a motorized lazy susan (turntable) to give you some interesting options for b-roll.

If you're filming bigger stuff, then a white backdrop would work as well. You could go for something in optical green for chroma keying but keying is a pretty precise art and chances are if you're a total beginner it won't look that great until you really get the hang of it - so go for plain white first.

Chances are you'll still have some money left over after that too... iPhone footage is pretty damn good but you should start putting together a kitty for upgrading to a proper interchanagable lens camera.

u/Lynchbread · 1 pointr/audiophile

Wow thanks for the detailed reply!
> This is a bit of a tricky setup, but as long as you only want to use the microphone on your PC it is pretty achievable.

Yeah I do only want to use the mic on my PC.
>
> Also if you want to play the sound off your PC and use a gaming console, you will require a mixer to play both sources. If you don't require this it makes your setup less complicated.

Yeah it sounds like I need a mixer since I want both sources. So it sounds like setup 1 will work for me.

> This will not sound as good as option 2.

Do you have any recommendations on how I could improve Setup 1's sound? I'm willing to spend more money if need be. If not though I'm sure the mixer will sound fine.

> As far as microphones go, try a USB one (this is a decent cheaper one, you can go more or less expensive: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014PYGTUQ) to reduce the audio noise your friends are telling you about.

That looks perfect! I think that's the mic I will buy.

EDIT: Also any recommendations on quality cables to buy to try an alleviate any of the static that may be coming from them?

u/freedompotatoes · 1 pointr/Beatmatch

So I'm relatively new to both (producing for about a year and DJing for a few months). Put out one song and done a couple mixes, hoping to play a show soon. In my brief experience, DJing is way more immediately gratifying. It's a lot easier (imo) to throw down a mix that sounds pretty good and just experiment when the songs themselves are already there for you to play with.

Producing, on the other hand, has a much steeper learning curve; you will probably have to put a lot more time into it before you enjoy what you can do with it. But at the same time, I find finishing a song or even making a nice-sounding beat that never gets finished more deeply satisfying since it feels very original.

So what I'd recommend is:

  1. Learn the basics of DJing. Beatmatching is the essence of this, but learning good transitions and song choices is another skill that will take some time to develop.
  2. Spend most of your serious work time on production. First step is getting a DAW e.g. FL Studio or Ableton. Then I'd recommend picking one synth and learning it very thoroughly; I'm a big fan of Serum because of its rent-to-own plan through Splice. Honestly, you don't need much equipment to get started; my best investment was a small MIDI keyboard that helped my creativity.
  3. Any time you want to chill or aren't feeling as into the whole sound design/composition/arrangement side of things, go do some mixing.

    This is just what works for my workflow though. If you've got any other questions, I'd be happy to answer from a relative beginner's standpoint.
u/HAYD3N60 · 1 pointr/audioengineering

I need a phantom power supply for a Beringer C-1. Right now the Behringer U-Phoria UMC22 looks pretty good, but if I could save $20 and be good with something like the Neewer that be great. I have already had this C-1 for a while now (traded my blue snowball for it and a mixer) but after some research I have found out that my mixer only supplies 15v of phantom and the C-1 needs 48v. I am only using this mic to talk on discord with some friends so nothing too crazy.

What recommendations do you have for something between $20-$40? For my situation I'm looking for the best bang for my buck type of thing. I'm pretty good with tech but audio is just another beast that I don't really want to tackle myself so any help would be very appreciated!

u/ollee · 3 pointsr/Twitch

Can't go wrong with a Behringer. They're specifically what I use. I originally started with console capture, having both PS3 and 360 so I sprung for the xenyx 802 for the extra channels. This is a list of their small mixers. I know a couple people(larger streamers) Running the 502usb...it seems nice. I'm using a 1622fx atm but that's big. I got it second hand at guitar center, it's fairly safe to check what they might have that's small, you might get something cheaper than online, or something better for the same price, but you ARE taking a chance.

Another option if you're going for a traditional XLR mic(since windows mixer w/ OBS/Xsplit is strong for PC gamers) you can get an audio interface. This basically is a piece of equipment that turns your XLR into a usb device. The Behringer 302usb is just an interface/small mixer that looks like it might be nice to use. There are also things like the babyface that is expensive as shit but absolutely wonderful, or the much more budget focusrite that are both solid devices. These are actually best as you're taking balanced audio directly translated into a digital signal through a device designed to eliminate interference, but they can get expensive.

Good audio costs money, but you can alleviate the cost some. Don't by a snowball...get something you can shockmount and popfilter and boom to eliminate ambient noise...that is if you don't have a good mic yet.

^_^

u/claytonbigsby66 · 1 pointr/buildapc

for a build JUST for audio production, you could honestly probably get away with a pretty barebones motherboard. This is because the main question will be what outboard audio interface you will use with it. The audio interface will completely bypass the motherboards audio chipset, and if functioning properly, will provide far higher quality audio and much more routing options/customization than any motherboard chipset can claim. Fortunately you don't need to spend much to get something like that. This focusrite scarlett series is a particularly popular choice: https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-GENERATION-USB-Recording/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=sr_1_12?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491458677&sr=1-12&keywords=audio+interface I don't really recommend something like this though since it has no external power supply - if your friend intends to power and record a microphone that requires phantom power this interface will both transmit the data and 48 volt over usb 2.0. It works, but seems like people have mixed results with it. This Behringer Umc404hd is outrageous value for the $99 dollars its currently priced at. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC404HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLHM/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491459101&sr=1-1&keywords=umc404hd. Pretty sweet with those 4 inputs and all those output options on the back.

I would say as long as the mobo has enough usb and sata connections you'll be fine. Just depends on whether your friend is interested in overclocking or gaming which will definitely increase the cost. For an overclockable motherboard Id get something like this https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130993&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID= If not overclocking, you could go as cheap as this $46.99 ASRock H110M-HDS LGA 1151 Intel H110 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard and not run into problems as long as it has enough I/O for your friends needs. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157685&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

u/theblindservant · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

This is just completely off the top of my head, but there are the Audio-Technica ATH-M40x's , on sale for $99 on amazon. I only have experience with the ATH-M50's but if they're comparable I'd recommend them. Another thing that I've heard good things about are the Sennheriser HD 280 PRO's. Stat wise, the 280 PROs supposedly have a lower base range, but in practice that could mean anything.

Since I haven't used either, I have no idea what they'll end up like and can't recommend either, but I hope that's a pretty good starting place. If you can, try them out and figure which you like more. Under that 100 limit, your choices really start to drop off in terms of actual quality.

Also, just final word, I'd seriously get a second opinion on this. I'm not the best person to ask about headphone quality, I just figured I throw some links your way since I saw there wasn't really anything here before. I hope what I've given you helps, but the best place to ask might be Head-fi.org. Good luck!

u/the_krillep · 1 pointr/Twitch

This combined with an InnoGear Phantom Power Supply works really great as a starter kit. I bought it some weeks ago, and I was really surprised of the quality of the mic. To the price I thought it would be really horrible with all the other things that comes in the package, but it's really great. Works wonders especially if you have a good soundboard on your motherboard. The pop filter is really tricky to put on since it has a weird shape for it's clamp, so I bought this mudder pop filter and it fits perfectly on the mic. If you're on a budget or just don't want to go full ham with your blue yetis or other super fancy mics, then these items can be recommended for an aspiring streamer :)


But it's a really good guide you have made here, thank you! :D

Edit: the phantom power supply is from the uk, so you'll need a converter for it to work with your power outlet if you don't live in the uk. Else any other phantom power supply should work just as fine. There's not an XLR cable included in the kit, but they're pretty cheap and can be found in almost every electronics store or music department.

u/Jung_Groucho · 1 pointr/psychotherapy

In the recent past, I did a deep dive into audio recording as a hobby / avocation. (I actually made some money being a sound person for some indie movies). At one point, I probably had somewhere between $5K - $12K of audio equipment.

Here's what I learned:

  1. Capturing quality audio is very difficult (it's actually one of the most difficult parts of making movies)
  2. In audio, you get what you pay for

    You're in the range of $300 - $500, it sounds like. The Zoom H5 is $300. A pair of microphone and mixer is going to run you more. I'm not familiar with the Jabra 510, but it's $100 on Amazon. (I'd be skeptical of this based on your needs.) Unless you're prepared to spend significant amounts of money, I would really recommend:

  3. Use your cell phone (I've been impressed many times with the quality of the audio capture ability of the iPhone (which is doubly impressive since it completely sucks as a phone). I've had clients who are in sound design who have used an iPhone for a voice over mike in a pinch. Just make sure you have enough storage space on your phone for a full hour session.
  4. Manage your environment.
    1. Pick a client who speaks up.
    2. Chose a room (if you can) that lends itself to audio capture. Recording studios walls are 'padded' for a reason. A gymnasium is an absolute nightmare for capturing audio. Pick a room that is more like a recording studio (soft furniture, carpet, etc) and less like a gym (bare walls, bare floors, nothing soft to absorb the soundwaves bouncing around a room.)
    3. Move your chairs closer together. Put your iPhone on a table in between the two chairs, microphone facing both of you. If I had to record a client for supervision, I wouldn't pick a client who is too soft or speaks too rapidly.

      Clients are going to speak too softly or too rapidly at times. That's life. Again, capturing pristine audio in the wild is very, very difficult. (Movies make it look easy, in part 'cause actors learn how to work with the mics for audio capture. If they just talked "normally", much of the dialog would be lost. And recording studios spend tens of thousands of dollars on acoustical treatments for their rooms. For a reason.)

      Hopefully, your supervisor does not unreasonably expect perfection. When I've listened to recordings made by my supervisees, I don't expect perfect audio. I expect words to get lost sometimes. Again, that's life.

      If you're bound and determined to spend money ....

  5. If you buy one microphone you want what's called an "omnidirectional microphone" (there are different kinds of mics)
  6. If you are buying two mics, consider Rode microphones. They're an Australian company and make excellent, low-cost (relatively speaking) microphones. Their NT3 microphone is vastly under-rated. If I was setting up an interview room on a lower budget, I would get two NT3 microphones.
    1. https://www.amazon.com/Rode-NT3-Medium-diaphragm-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B0002PSCQW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rode+microphone+nt3&qid=1555285885&s=gateway&sr=8-3
  7. If you buy a mixer, you have to have something to record from the mixer into. Phones and laptops are possibilities here. For the price, Behringer makes decent stuff:
    1. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=audio+mixer+xlr&qid=1555286107&s=gateway&sr=8-4
  8. Don't forget the mic stands. And cables.

    ​

    Again, bottom line: I recommend saving your money and use your smart phone. You can use the money you save for your student loans. And a smart phone is far, far less intrusive on the client's space than a dual microphone set-up with a mixer. (Which is sort of important, no?) And less of a distraction for you. With less things to go wrong.

    I'll be curious to hear what you decide.

    Good luck!
u/WhiteFox41 · 1 pointr/trap

Most DAWs like Ableton and FL don't really require an equipment thanks to VSTs and plug-ins (been using nothing but my laptop's keyboard as my main input for years now), but it does help if you have a controller to work with.

If you're new into the production scene, I would recommend this. It already has a few drum pads there, so you won't need to spend more money on another drum pad. Borrowed it from a friend a while ago, and it's pretty good for its price.

That one works with pretty much any DAW, but it works best with Ableton. Another alternative would be this. Best thing about this one is that you can practically bring it with you anywhere (perfect for the road)

If you only want a drum pad, get this. It's the most common drum pad out there, so if you need any tutorial on how to use it, you won't have a hard time finding one.

u/-Gamebomb- · 2 pointsr/LetsPlayCritiques

I definitely think you should invest in a better microphone. If you can save up some money and get your hands on a Blue Nessie or a Snowball, it would be the best idea. They are relatively cheap, and you can plug them directly into your computer without the need of an audio interface (meaning they are USB microphones, not XLR). You also might want to invest in a better camera for yourself. I can see that there is some frame bleeding, and I can assume that you're using a webcam. Got an iPhone? Those work better than most personal digital cameras.

Are you capturing your game footage, video footage, and audio with the same program? (Programs like Game Capture HD can do this) If so, you have more control over your content if you record everything separately, then sync them up on editing software.

But overall, you have some great content! People will definitely enjoy your content more as you evolve as a Let's Player, and you'll definitely be able to grow your fanbase. Just keep yourself consistent and try to be as entertaining as possible.

Good luck!

-Gamebomb

u/RealFREE · 1 pointr/youtubers

Hi.

Your channel does need improving, as you say the microphone quality needs improving, as well as the banner. I could highly recommend the Blue Snowball Ice, or the Turtlebeach PX21 headset for microphone quality (I use both)

The actual video quality is great, very clear to see, and the added bonus of 60fps. The only issue I have is the length of the videos. I know that a lot of people prefer watching a video that is less than 10 minutes long, sometimes up to 15 minutes. 45 minutes for a single video, personally, is way too long for a small channel. You could combat this by including key parts of the games only, and cutting any slow, or unentertaining sections out. This will also help create a more interesting video, and should help you get some more subscribers.

I would also recommend having an intro, around 5-10 seconds long at max, as this will show viewers that you are putting effort and time into your video, and show a little more professionalism in the beginning of your videos.

When speaking, make sure you are not saying "ur, erm" so on. This will show that you haven't really thought through what you want to say in the video. I personally have some notes on paper next to myself when recording a video which is not live, as this allows you to keep to the point, while also not forgetting what you are wanting to say. If you do this once in a while, you could look at cutting the section out. Also, try to edit the audio so that there is not a lot of silent parts. I usually record a point at a time, then edit the audio to allow it all to feed together, allowing it to sound like a single sentence. If you know what I mean.

You do have some work to do on the channel, but the majority of this will be easier over time to do as habit, and will improve the quality greatly. You have a good clear voice, you just need a good microphone to be able to show this fully.

Good luck with your channel.

u/etherdesign · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Linux MultiMedia Studio (LMMS) is another option, despite the name there's also Mac and Windows versions. It's more like Fruity Loops so there's support for audio tracks and loops but also sequencing for MIDI and virtual instruments, it comes with a bunch but then there's also hundreds of free plugins available on the net and hundreds more paid in VST format. It's a little more fun than Ardour I think and you can get a song started up pretty fast in it.

As far as a mic goes, Shure SM58 is pretty much the industry standard vocal mic but there are lots of clones too available for cheaper. With that you'll need an audio interface the Focusrite Scarlet Solo is pretty solid assuming he only needs to record one thing at a time. There's lots of bundles available though for cheaper if you look at the related products.

For a keyboard something like this Nektar 49 key controller should be good, there's of course more compact ones for cheaper or fuller sized ones for more. There's ones with more controllers like knobs, sliders and drum pads for a bit more, for controlling and automating plugins etc. If you have a second hand music store anywhere around you can probably score one for a lot cheaper.

u/giri0n · 1 pointr/youtubers

I'd second the Blue Yeti; they make great mics. I have the Blue Yeti Nano for quick laptop style voice overs and podcasting, and I like it as well. It's a little cheaper, but the sound is a bit flatter (some of that can be changed in post if you like)

As an alternative, I bought this mic from Audio Technica back when I first got into podcasting/video production. Its not super expensive, and there are deals occasionally. The connection is standard USB and the audio quality is very clean. If you're recording in a bedroom/studio or other area that isn't going to get outside noise contamination, this is also a great choice, but it WILL pick up other sounds around you if you aren't careful. But I love mine, and its been a couple years and works great, plus you can accessorize with your choice of pop filters, mounting arms, or whatever else you like.

I'd say as far as cost, with audio - you DO get what you pay for, but you can get really really good quality for under $200 pretty easily. Good luck!

u/babygotbackpain · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

I'm going to be a little bit different from these other comments. I think there are some pros and cons to this bundle. I clicked on your thread out of curiosity but ended up realizing this was the bundle me and my friend bought during college when we first started rapping. While this bundle is a good starter kit, we had a lot of issues with monitoring. Monitoring is the ability to hear yourself while recording. Its not super necessary but I prefer to hear myself within the headphones while I am recording. There is something called latency, which is the time you speak to the time you hear yourself in the headphones. With this bundle sometimes we couldn't monitor ourselves at all, and other times we could but the latency was so large that it sounded like we were rapping over our own echoes.

​

I would recommend purchasing audio technica M50 as headphones. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HVLUR86?aaxitk=cVQsljyy61ps.jPMCOqbVQ&pd_rd_i=B00HVLUR86&pf_rd_p=44fc3e0f-4b9e-4ed8-b33b-363a7257163d&hsa_cr_id=9643844680501&sb-ci-n=asinImage&sb-ci-v=https%3A%2F%2Fm.media-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F81Hajq6vPiL.jpg&sb-ci-a=B00HVLUR86

​

AKG perception microphone. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00160PRBU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

and this behringer audio interface. https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-Audio-Interface-1-Channel-UM2/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=audio+interface&qid=1571236325&refinements=p_72%3A1248939011&rnid=1248937011&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-5

​

It comes out to the same price kind of. I have the M-audio M - track audio interface. I dont think they make it anymore but I really like it so if you find it on ebay or something it might be worth it.

If you are looking at a DAW to start recording. I suggest reaper. Its literally free and insanely robust software considering its free. Theres a 60 day limit on the software but you can really use the software past that date. I used it for like 1000 days before i ended up paying like the 60 bucks for it.

u/th3malcontent · 5 pointsr/podcasts

You want a 4 input mixer with a USB out. Brands will cause an uproar in this sub but I've had 3 different Behringers and never had a problem and they are cost effective. You want a USB out for sound clarity. If you go with line out to a PC, it will sound like shit.

This is a great mixer for the price. It's has USB out to your pc and 4 xlr inputs for mics as well as a couple for your pc or whatever audio in.

This mic will do what you need it to. It's not a condenser, but it will sound great.

With cables and windscreens you should be able to keep it under 200 with those 3 items. But, you may want to look at some cheap mic stands (holding a mic makes too much noise that will annoy your audience) and balanced Y cables for your pc inputs. I'm pretty sure the mixer will come with the USB cable. Also you will need a good headphone splitter/amp. Or you can get a cheap 4 way headphone splitter, just make sure it's stereo.

You have a low budget so you will have to sacrifice on some of the equipment. Not to say this stuff is shitty, just that five hundred would get you more bang. I realize you only have 3 people now but a guest will happen over time. Chances are though, you will do 10 shows and quit - someone will not have the time or life will get in the way, it happens. The equipment I linked to will work in many applications so it will be easy to move if you decide to get rid of it.

Again, people here will argue for days over brand name and set ups. My suggestions are suggestions that will work. I've used them for years and have had a few incarnations of each. I personally use completely different equipment now, but I know this stuff works on a budget. No - I do not work for Behringer, but the shit works for its price. Good luck, guys. PM me with the first show!

u/TacticalPopsicle · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

There's tons of good options sub $100, HyperX Clouds are really popular on this sub, I haven't tried them myself but my friends like it and the reviews look good.


If you want a split headphone/mic system, audiotechina and sennhieser are pretty good that have headphones in sale somewhat often. Just be sure to get a decent mic like the snowball although this mic might push you over your budget with the headphonws i listed. Theres good headphones by phillips and monoprice that are ~$50 o keep you under $100. Or a cheap clip on like this zalman one I use this mic and the only issue I have is that theres no mute button but most chat programs have one so its not too bad.


As for the mic issue have you tried playing with the windows setting and your chat program? You could boost your mic and adjust the threshold to not pick up your breathing noises

u/drfine2 · 2 pointsr/cassetteculture

Get one of these, it is inexpensive. I use it with Audacity. My difference is that I record out of a home tape deck, not a box like yours. I think I can help you up to a point. The Behringer has a ton of reviews and very high ratings. I have the one in Red also, it came free with another device, a guitar effects pod.


https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B000KW2YEI/



I've read your manual, although they combined it with ES23 model. Cycle through the Sound settings to EQ Off when dubbing. Turn off or Cancel the sound virtualizer effect. On this Panasonic you have an advantage in that you can control the volume digitally. Start at 6. Level 7 might be better. You will be able to figure out which is best, but adjust it depending on the volume of the entire tape when you move on to another tape. Simon and Garfunkel would be a different setting output SLIGHTLY than Metallica, etc.


On your computer, reboot. Don't have the jack plugged into the computer. Do have the playback Panasonic prepared. You want to test one song. You want to monitor at the end of the chain, so you want to use your computer speakers, or connect via bluetooth to speakers or headphones, somehow.


My laptops now only have one port for sound In and Out. When I plug into the jack it opens a box with a question of how I want to use it. I'll go see the options on mine after I post this, but you don't want Microphone in, you want recording in or something else if you have a choice. If the Audio Device selection doesn't pop up, google it, there is help "How to get a popup when device is plugged into audio jack" - Or if you know your computer pretty well, open the sound panel options for the input/output to see what options are there.

You want LINE IN.

>Here are the options in the sound panel on my Acer with one jack:

>The current connected device is:

>Which device did you plug in?

>Line In [this is the one you want to use]

>Mic In

>Headphone

>Speaker Out

>Headset


This is where the Behringer USB device will come in handy. Audacity will find it, and you can simply monitor via the interface or on your computer.


Audacity, if you are new to it, it defaults at fresh install to 48khz sampling rate in my experience. You want to set that to 44.1 khz, the CD Audio standard. You can google that. I personally record to WAV file on a clean partition, but recording to high rate MP3 or something else might be what you want to do.


Your cables need to be good, and you need to notice if there is dust affecting the signal in the headphone port or the port on your computer. When you are monitoring at the business end DURING A SILENT PAUSE MODE, you can rotate the plug that is in the jack, you will hear if there is a crappy connection. You can clean the mini headphone jack ports just google it.


I hope you have got a way to monitor what is coming in to your computer after you do all this, it is really the only way to go. Like I said, considering the disadvantage of recording from a boombox headphone output, your advantage is that digital level control on the output, so you might turn out a fairly good recording.

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/buildapc
That monitor is 144Hz stock, and it is overclocking up to 180Hz but not all panels may hit that speed. I recommend paying $20 more and getting a 1440p panel that is 144Hz stock but usually goes up to 165Hz.

R5 2600 is a $25 more and gives a nice performance bump.

That CPU cooler is overkill.

Get some faster memory for Ryzen.

The Crucial MX500 is a better value SSD.

Over $300 is too much for a GTX 1060 6GB.

You can get a fully modular and gold rated PSU for $5 more, that also has higher power quality.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $199.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $34.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte - X470 AORUS ULTRA GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard | $139.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Team - Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $159.99 @ Newegg Business
Storage | Crucial - MX500 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $121.99 @ Newegg Marketplace
Storage | Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $44.28 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card | $299.99 @ Amazon
Case | NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | Dell - S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor | $369.95 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Corsair - K95 RGB PLATINUM Wired Gaming Keyboard | $169.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Corsair - M65 PRO RGB FPS Wired Optical Mouse | $49.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1731.13
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-04-26 16:03 EDT-0400 |

Those Logitech speakers are junk, same with pretty much everything intended for PC use. Use some decent headphones or studio monitors. You get what you pay for with audio. Keep them a bit away from your wall and desk surface for best sound, this goes for all speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR-CR3-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E - $100.

https://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-Eris-E4-5-Powered-Monitors/dp/B00GP56OYA - $200.

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-2-Way-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC - $300 (you need 2)

/r/budgetaudiophile if you want more recommendations.
u/forrestimel · 1 pointr/letsplay

Hey man,

Good stuff in that video, I gotta try that Cat Quest game! I have some small suggestions for video editing and then a major suggestion for sound.

For editing, it may seem really small, but how you pop things in to frame can add so much to a joke. This video on how Edgar Wright does visual comedy is great and goes over the theory of "popping" into frame. Just think of Kramer from Seinfeld. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FOzD4Sfgag

When things come from nowhere it seems haphazard and feels choppy (referring to the master chief and bayonetta joke). Having something smoothly rush in from the side, top, or bottom of the frame can add a lot to the humor. Especially giving things weight and giving it a little animated squash and stretch.

For the sound, I highly recommend you invest in a new mic. Let's Plays are essentially podcasts with some visuals most of the time, and if the audio quality is low people won't want to listen. I understand not everyone can afford the best mics, but if you can invest in the Blue Snowball it will drastically improve your guys' sound quality and you would only need one. A $70 investment ain't bad for a mic that could last you a very long time. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-Microphone-Textured-White/dp/B000EOPQ7E

But these are just some thoughts and suggestions, keep it up guys!

u/mrthirsty15 · 1 pointr/microphones

Very new to the microphone world, but I am curious as to what you guys might recommend to fix the noise/static issue I'm getting.

My headset microphone was dieing and I decided to upgrade to a microphone that isn't just a headset mic. The intention is to use it as my mic for gaming as well as giving me the option to record guitar/vocals, and possibly to do some streaming. Over black friday I got a pretty good deal on a Floureon BM-800 Condenser mic (nothing fancy, I know). I also picked up a phantom power supply for it as well.

So my current setup is XLR to phantom power supply, and XLR to 1/8" into my PC.

I had to turn the gain way up to get a decent volume and I'm guessing this is to do with not having a preamp. With the gain this high, I get a lot of noise from a fairly quiet room (even if I move the mic into the hallway the noise is constant). I was looking at the following preamps.

ART TubeMP Tube Microphone Preamp


Focusrite Scarlett Solo (2nd Gen) USB Audio Interface

So, my questions are...

  1. Did I just buy too low of a quality of mic in that, even with a preamp, the noise/static will still be there?

  2. Would either of those preamps cleanup the noise/static from the mic? (The Scarlett is appealing with the 1/4" hookup for my guitar as well)

  3. Is there any software I can run my mic through to filter out noise? I would assume this would not be the ideal way to deal with noise though, and that a preamp would be a better solution for this.

    I can provide an audio sample when I get home from work. Thanks!
u/Megatf · 1 pointr/Twitch

Gonna preface this with I don’t know if a mixer board that you want for that price range is possible, so I cannot answer your question.

If you still choose to read then what I can’t stress enough is not getting a cheap mixer. If you ever plan to upgrade your stream it’s wasted money on a this starter mixer that even if you find you will quickly outgrow or wish you had more options.

It’s better to save money and buy a quality used one from Ebay, I cannot be more happy with my audio setup but it wasn’t cheap. But like quality lighting, and a good DSLR camera, this is not something you will change for years (If ever) and will survive ifnyou decide to do a two PC setup.

I do wish I could link you something in that price range with those outputs and faders instead of knobs but even doing an Amazon search I am not coming up with anything. There are a couple Behringer ones but not with the faders you seek and the quality is nowhere near that of a Yamaha, Mackie, etc. the best I could find was:

Behringer Xenyx 802 Premium 8-Input 2-Bus Mixer with Xenyx Mic Preamps and British EQs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ygl6Cb8C45CWN

If you can wait I would highly recommend the Yamaha MG12XU. The quality is superb, I have full dual PC functionality. It’s pretty amazing and you can get one open box/used for 225-250 on Ebay (not including the price of cables/sound cards). I wrote a guide on setting it up below

https://www.reddit.com/r/Twitch/comments/bjpatc/you_too_can_have_professional_audio_yamaha_mg12xu/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ios_share_flow_optimization&utm_term=control_2

u/VlRU5 · 2 pointsr/headphones

"Preferred Tonal Balance" is simply how do you like your music, example: "I listen to Rap so I want as much bass as possible!". With your taste it would be safe to say you want a bit more bass.

Personally I wouldn't recommend buying something from Bose unless you really wanted good noise-cancellation (tip: you don't). They are a bit pricey for what you get.
At that price range you might want to check out headphones from Audio Technica, specifically the M50's or the M40X's. Now I like the M50's because they have nice slightly punchy bass but it doesn't overpower the rest of the song. Sounds pretty good with Glitch-Hop and other electronic music in general IMO. I've had them for 3 years now and is a solid common go-to with their sweet price tag.

The list goes on and on since around $100 is where you start getting good headphones but i'll throw in another two headphones for you to consider: Shure's SRH440. For more bass, check out the V-MODA Crossfade LP. They're quite stylish, come in lots of colors and have a more bassy sound. V-MODA has a few other headphone line-ups you might like if you like their headphones.

Hope that helps, give us updates!

u/cotle · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I have had a fair bit of experience in the field of audio engineering, and so hopefully I don't talk out my ass when I say this but:

If this build is audio-orientated, why haven't you included a sound card or other audio interface? This kind of equipment is pretty much the most important part of your setup if you are seriously seeking to create high-fidelity recordings.

Unless you already have an external audio interface or a decent sound card that you're planning to recycle from a previous build, I would highly recommend investing in one. A mid-to-high end sound card will reduce hiss/buzz/interference and will allow you to sample audio at much higher bit-depths.

When it comes to the actual gear (as per usual) your budget dictates the hardware you should purchase, but I give some general guidelines. If you are only planning to do simple recordings (guitar + 1 or 2 vocal mics), I would go with an external soundcard like the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. If you're interested in richer recordings of perhaps larger scale (drum kits, bands, etc), something similar to a Focusrite Clarett 8pre X or other rack gear would probably suit.

At this stage, we're talking about spending more on an interface than your actual PC, and I'm guessing you came to this sub to find computer advice. Nevertheless, I hope what wrote helps in some way. Good luck with your auditore endeavours!

u/DoctorYogurtButler · 1 pointr/recordthis

Hey, I'm really late, and not as active as I'd like to be, but I just wanted to let you know that I really like your check, great tone and excellent pronunciation. You've definitely got talent for VO work, you should look at getting a better mic and getting demos made.

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Snowball-Microphone-Textured/dp/B000EOPQ7E

A lot of people have good luck with this one, and it's a good price.

u/skeletonmage · 4 pointsr/ColoradoSprings

I would stick with a USB condenser microphone. They're phenomenal as they have a built in condenser and some have built in noise reduction. That doesn't mean you shouldn't do post editing to the show (like running a condenser and noise reducer over your audio), but it helps shave a lot of post work off.

I run the XLR version of the Audio-Technicia AT2020. What I'm linking is the USB version and you may be able to find it used, or cheaper, elsewhere. It's a phenomenally powerful microphone for little cost.

If you want to go XLR, because you feel like you need to do some on the fly mixing, a Scarlet interface + the XLR version of that microphone is a great combination. You can go more advanced with a Behringer Xenyx Q802USB (what I am running), but if you're just starting out keep it simple.

Also pick up a microphone boom, pop filter, and a shock mount (that particular shock mount has a pop filter with it). Keep it off your desk and about 5-6 inches from your mouth when podcasting. You want to reduce all extra noise including mouse clicks, keyboards, or bumping your desk.

If that's too expensive, a Yeti or a Snowball are great introductory microphones. There is a reason everyone uses them. I cut my teeth on a Samson CO1U, but eventually upgraded to the AT because the sound quality is a bit better. Just...always get some kind of arm or tripod or something and keep the microphone suspended.

At the end of the day, as long as you're using some kind of condenser microphone, it doesn't really matter. Post production can help make the whole podcast sound a lot more enjoyable. Just make sure you're consistent, have decent audio quality, and are excited to podcast. I wrote up some dirty tips and tricks here if you're interested.

Good luck!

u/Mr_Stonebender · 2 pointsr/podcasting

That X/Y mic is great for recording in stereo, but that would make for a weird listening experience I think. If it was all you had, then you'd make it work, maybe combine the L/R tracks into one Mono track so as to avoid being distracting, but since you're not intending to try that, I'll shut up about it.

You've got the right idea wanting ISO tracks of each speaker. Makes editing MUCH more effective. It's also SOP these days for stuff like this. (In the old days of analog recording up through even a few years ago, you wouldn't have the data-writing speeds or bandwidth to record 5 high-quality digital audio tracks to the same hard disk at the same time, so you'd have a dedicated mix engineer whose main job would be to constantly 'ride the faders' on the five people speaking so that the output was clean, clear, and easy to listen to. MAYBE you'd edit, but if you did, you did it with a razorblade and scotch tape. Post-processing was minimal compared to what a lot of folks do today as well. Especially for radio.)

ANYWAY. Forgive the wordsalad.

WAIT! More wordsalad: I should offer up a bit of a correction to my last message, too, because I was using cardioid/omni reasoning that would apply more to standard mics, not lavs. So I changed my mind. Go with omni :-). Reason: Because of how microphones get built, and how lavs are used, the 'dead zone' on the cardioid version would just...point at the floor. So. Not much in the way of rejection in any case. Plus, the more directional the mic, the more careful the speaker has to be not to move their head while they're talking, which is harder to remember than it sounds. With that in mind...

Movo LV4-C: Get these, I think. Maybe just buy one, test it to make sure it's not utter crap, and then buy the rest. There's a favorable comparison to MXL in the comments, and they have some of the best budget-mics I've used. They're never going to replace a lectrosonic or sennheiser or electrovoice or shure or or or...but they'll get you there if you don't have $2000 to spend on mics alone. And by the looks of it, the LV4-C mic may well be a copy of the MXL mic referenced, if not the exact same hardware with different branding. So, even better. Not a pro mic by many measures, but it'll do the job and be an improvement over nothing.

As for the rest:

Shure CVL: The adapter you'd need to run these costs a minimum of 20 bucks apiece. Doesn't justify the cost, plus: adapter. More stuff to forget, more stuff to break.

Behringer XM1800: These are probably ::choke:: fine? But You'd need stands and cables and also they probably don't sound any better than your laptop mic. So...they could work, and 80 bucks for six mics is just a ridiculous price. Couldn't hurt to try, I suppose. Still, with the lavs, as long as you affix them correctly, you'll have the least amount of stuff to worry about while you're recording.

Goliton Cardioid Lav: NO. No. Please just...not these ::Cries::. These would be WORSE than just screaming really loud and hoping your neighbors can hear and enjoy your show.

-----

If you do get the lavs, check out this pic of a 'Broadcast Loop' for an example of a good way to minimize cable noise and strain on the cable. (Although with a cheaper mic, I'd use a bigger loop than you see in the pic to avoid breaking the cable. You're not doing this on video are you?)

And for that 5th mic, the inline preamp /u/matgoebel doesn't actually supply phantom power, so it wouldn't work for your setup. Keeping it cheap, something like this might do the trick, but it's one more piece of kit.

So here's a question(s) to consider, in no particular order of importance:

  • Will all five of you be recording all the time, every single session?

  • Why did you decide on lavalier mics to begin with?

  • Is finding a phantom power workaround really worth your time?

    If it is, then it is. But if it's not, you could always go the dynamic mic route, which means you wouldn't need phantom power on ANY channel, hell—even handheld would be fine if you don't want to mess with stands, just be careful to have some slack in the cable coming off the mic—don't let the mic support the weight of the cable. Those Behringer mics are worth a shot, although after listening around I think if you go that route you might want to check out these Behringer 8500s instead. They're a little meatier sounding, not quite as harsh, which I think you'd end up preferring in the long run. (Until you can afford THE VOICE OF GOD)

    EDIT: fixed my own stupid markup mistake.
u/CrucialMove · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I have a Blue Yeti Blackout on a microphone arm (cheapy $20 version like this one (https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Microphone-Suspension-Scissor-Stand/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491413327&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+yeti+mic+stand) but without the black adapter at the end of it, and it has worked beautifully for the last three years, I can even invert my microphone to where it's hanging upside-down over my monitors and it's still steady as a rock. The arm can extend for about two and a half to three feet in every direction and is very easily adjustable.

I would definitely recommend checking to make sure whatever arm you buy is compatible with the microphone though, as some aren't. There's plenty of cheap versions on Amazon that can clip to your desk and easily support the weight of the microphone.

It's cleared up a lot of my desk space, made it easier to cable manage and use my microphone, and you don't get any of the infamous desk vibrations coming through your mic that the Blue Yeti is so well-known for.

TL:DR; A cheap Blue-yeti compatible mic stand can be found on Amazon, and it's a much better recording experience on a mic stand than on the desk stand that comes with the Blue Yeti.

u/iansteele · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

So when recording vocals and guitar at the same time, like you'd like to do, the debate on what to do is really about how much control you want over editing in the end process.

- If you don't care about control on the individual levels of guitar and vocals AND want to record in one take with both instruments, all you need is one mic, XLR, Mic stand, headphones, and an interface to get the signal into your computer.

In this situation, you need A. and Interface that is cheap but not a POS because it really affects the sound of your recording. Behringer makes a cheap interface for 1 Input (microphone) and actually has a decent Preamp in it. B, you need a microphone and cable (XLR, Balanced) to capture the sound and send it to the interface. This area people could talk forever about, but for just getting the job done and a decent sound, AT2020 Condenser (Currently On Sale) is a great option for capturing both your voice and guitar. any XLR will do $10 or something like that.

- If you wanted to track the guitar and vocals separately, one at a time, the only change I would make is the microphone. Shure SM57 would do great for vocals and guitar individually. There have been many singles and albums in the rock, acoustic, and folk category recorded on these mics alone with fantastic results.

​

- If recording the guitar and the vocals at the SAME TIME is the route you want, it's definitely possible. 2 Input interface, Two mics, Two XLR's, Two Mic stands, headphones.

- a change in interface is needed from the first behringer to this one because they have the same sound only difference is the amount of inputs for ~$50 more. Next would be buying two microphones, both options listed above are probably going to be the cheapest you'll find with a decent sound. You can find packages like this on guitar center and other audio retailers, but the mics come with a lot of bad frequencies in my opinion, but hard to argue $99 for two microphones. get the cables, plug everything up and record enable two live tracks in you preferred DAW.

​

As far as the computer goes, Ableton hands out free versions of its "lite" program, and I believe you can record in that version. That would be the best route in my opinion for DAW, Reaper is a good option, I'd stay away from fruity loops if you are mainly just going to be recording audio.

Most of these solutions will put you under or around $250 so I hope this helps, if you have more questions let me know.

u/raygan · 3 pointsr/applehelp

You can't really record directly from the iPad to the Mac. I think you're probably going to want to look into getting a webcam. Nearly any USB webcam will work with the Mac.

This is a nice one on the cheap but not super cheap end.

You may also want to get a microphone. Many webcams like the one I just linked have one built in, but these are usually pretty low quality. You might give it a try first with the built in mic but if you want higher quality audio I recommend a nice USB mic like the Blue Snowball. Optional, but it'll make your videos sound 100% better.

All of these can be used as direct input for iMovie. iMovie is great for basic video editing and can upload your work directly to YouTube. It's great software that comes free with every Mac.

u/StargatePioneer · 1 pointr/podcasts

The best microphone I know of for this type of use would be the Sennheiser MD-46. It is one of the best if not the best interview microphone around. It has low handling noise and is a dynamic microphone with a super Cardioid pattern. It was specifically design by Sennheiser at the request of NBC Sport for their Olympic coverage a few decade ago and is the favored microphone for many NFL sideline reporters.

However, the Sennheiser MD-46 is an XLR microphone and not a USB microphone. So you'd either have to pick up a portable recorder such as the Zoom H5 or a USB Audio Interface such as the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 to make it work.

If you are thinking of just a USB microphone one of these microphones I tested would be my recommendation. The Knox Podcast Microphone is currently running for $40. But you can also pick up a Audio Technica AT2005, a Audio Technica ATR-2100 or a Samson Q2U. These microphones have a higher handling noise but do record great sound in a stable environment. They are also dynamic cardioid microphones but will pick up a bit more background noise than the Sennheiser MD-46. The bonus with these microphones is that they have both USB and XLR capability and output with both simultaneously so are extremely useful for any podcaster.

Let me know if you have any questions and good luck!

u/Aezalius · 1 pointr/Twitch

My current go-to in this price range is a mix of a Yamaha MG10XU mixer or Scarlett Solo interface with a Shure SM57.

SM57 is a really nice sounding dynamic mic for $100, and sounds pretty much equal to the SM7b and 58 in some videos I watched. This fuzzy thing will also act as a nice pop filter for it and is pretty cheap. I've got one of those big round mesh ones and it still lets some heavy Ps and Ts through, so look at some videos if you go that route.

I personally like to tweak with things in hardware, so i'd go with the Yamaha board since it has a ton of features, but if you just want to plug in the mic to something nice then the Scarlett is also fantastic. I've also been using this Neewer arm for about 6 years, and it does the job.

Headphones wise, I've used the AudioTechnica M50x a few times before and honestly they're the best headphones I've ever heard myself. I also see a lot of people praising the Beyerdynamic DT 990s too.

u/provideocreator · 1 pointr/videography

At this price point, don't go with a DSLR. The T6 isn't going to be that good. Instead, I recommend getting 4 things:

  1. A Canon VIXIA HF R800. This is a good camcorder that can record at 1080p 60 frames per second. This does split the files after a certain recording limit, but that limit happens to be 12 hours, so you're fine.

  2. I recommend you also add B-roll footage, where you show off a product using smooth footage of it. This adds interest to your videos, and improves your audio retention and such. You could start with a Magnus VT-300.

  3. You need good audio, I can't stress that enough. To get started, use a portable audio recorder. The best option for around $100 is the Zoom H1. This will record all your audio and has built in microphones. You can plug it directly into the camera from there, or sync in post, whichever is easier for you. Don't plan on using the audio from camera mics. Even high end cameras aren't meant to use the built in mics for high quality audio.

  4. Last you need some lights. A good all-rounder to get started is the Viltrox L116T. They have adjustable brightness and color temperature + they can be powered by a power adapter or batteries, both of which you need to get separately.
u/blackjakals · 2 pointsr/audio

That might work out better than what you have, but if you really want quality audio, you need to invest a little more into it. Getting a proper condensor mic like the Audio Technical AT2020 here would be a great place to start. You would then probably need an audio interface to connect it to like this or a mixer like this. Do your research and a lot of it. There are a lot of good options out there to improve your audio quality, but all options involve investing a descent amount of money as hard as that is to hear. Research, find what you really want no matter the price, and save, save, save until you have it.

u/zipzupdup · 1 pointr/videography

A question before I start; will you be using an editor to sync things up in post or would you rather take things together(audio and video) and have them all sorted out at one time?

Here's a list of things that I think would be beneficial, but not an encompassing list. If you're trying to go for a cheap list that could still get the job done, I find that these items have decent reviews on Amazon and websites and they do offer a good starting point for a budget.

  1. The Camera: Canon EOS M2 ($250)

    I feel like the Canon EOS M2 would be a strong contender. It is actually a mirrorless camera that has the same sensor as that of the more expensive T3i. Due to it's lack of popularity with photographers due to the slower autofocus, it has seen multiple price reductions. Although it contains autofocusing issues in the photography modes, it's video modes are what really helps this camera out. You have a good starting lens with an 18-55mm lens, which may be wide enough for that room at 18, but it could even be close enough for a closer image. You can even be more technical and add in other features. Also this camera has a direct mic-in line for use of an external mic, like the shotgun mic below.

  2. The Audio: Zoom H1 Portable Audio Recorder $99 OR TAKSTAR SGC-598 $29.99

    Audio is key here. You want to be able to hear the pastor as he gives sermons, so you have two general models. You can place the portable recorder closer to him, giving you crisp audio at a very minimal distance, or you can attach a shotgun microphone to the camera and pick it up from a distance further away. The only thing is, would you rather have the camera do it all for you or would you rather have to sync up the audio in editing? The Zoom mic is nice because you can purchase one of these ($21.38) and mic the pastor up before service to give a very crisp lapel audio.

  3. The SD Cards: Sandisk 64GB 80mb/s ($22.49)

    This should be a given.

  4. Power and Adapters: AC Adapter ($15.50) OR 2-Pack Spare Batteries($28.99)

    You can choose to have it either plugged in the whole time during recording, or you can have it run off of batteries. Your personal preference.

  5. Tripod: AmazonBasics 60" tripod ($23.49)

    You requested a tripod for the ease of use.

    Given that you live in the US, after taxes, you're essentially looking at a $500 setup for all of that equipment. That may not be the best equipment for people or even be suggested by anyone else here, but that is just my $0.02.


    Source: Use the EOS M1 and most of the gear listed.
u/Mrmitch65 · 2 pointsr/streaming

For a mic, I recommend a blue snowball, its easy to setup, sounds good and has a stand.

To be honest, I really dont think that a webcam at this early stage would be such a good idea but a good one would be a Logitech C922x

As headphones go, a pair of corsair void pros would be great and have awesome sound quality. The wireless ones are great, plug them in overnight and then play all day and you are good to go! But for simplicity, I recomend the wired version as then you dont have to remember to plug them in

u/Egsession · 2 pointsr/Twitch

As everyone else has said--always go with the microphone first. Good audio quality is paramount to a good stream. If you're on a budget, I wouldn't recommend getting a Blue Yeti right off the bat. A lot of people think that the Blue Yeti is cruise control for great audio quality, but it requires a lot of work to get it sounding good because it's so sensitive.

I'd recommend getting a cheap dynamic mic as well as an audio interface. Those combined will be about 50 bucks--much more affordable than the Blue Yeti, and will be a lot easier to work with in the long run.

You'll also need a microphone arm, which is also why I recommend a cheaper mic. The Neewer 20 dollar arm is perfect for those starting out--if you went with the Blue Yeti, that same arm wouldn't work as well because the Yeti is just so heavy, and you'd need to buy an adapter because the arm isn't compatible with it right out of the box.

When you're ready to get a new webcam, I'd recommend with Logitech C270. It's only 20 bucks right now and you're able to stream at 720p without any issues. You're a small streamer, so you shouldn't really worry too much about 1080p--especially since even the bigger streamers only stream at 720p anyway.

u/JayIkalima · 1 pointr/gadgets

Everyone will always recommend the Audio Technica ATH-M50's for a headset, but I'm pretty sure you're looking for a headset with deep, controlled bass, good looks, and stuff like that. V-Moda has awesome headphones and a 20 dollar add-on mini microphone that has decent audio.

The Samson Go Mic has decent audio, but I will recommend the Blue Snowball for better audio at nearly the same price. Many of my friends actually use the Snowball for their home studio setup/recording gaming commentary and more.

Just be careful; the original Snowball and the Snowball iCe aren't the same.

u/jpat_games · 1 pointr/LetsPlayCritiques

I would definitely invest in a new microphone. The blue snowball is a great starter mic. I use it myself and love it. Here is a link. It's a little expensive, but you can sometimes catch them on sale for $40.

I would also recommend trying to move so you have a different background behind you. It just seems like there is a lot going on and I found myself looking at the stuff behind you more than you whenever I saw your facecam. If it's not possible, then it's not a huge deal.

Your commentary is good and it seems like you can come up with some good quips here and there while playing, which is a bonus. I hope this helped you out some! :)

u/kabbage123 · 2 pointsr/videography

Hi /u/nerdress -

The Rode Videomic Pro is a pretty good mic but the t3i is really, really bad for audio no matter how good the microphone. I'd strongly suggest getting an external recorder like the H4N or, at the very minimum, a H1N. You may want to pair it with a XLR shotgun mic like this if you can find the $$$.

A tripod is something that can last for many years, but the one you linked to is really bottom of the barrel. This is something I'd suggest investing a little more money into, you are going to want a universal fluid head specifically if you plan on doing video work semi-regularly. I'd get a semi-compact Manfrotto tripod like that one, you won't regret it.

Lastly, do you plan on using the kit lens? I'd suggest grabbing the famous nifty fifty. It's a legend for many reasons (super sharp, great lowlight, durable as can be).

Also you are going to want to get this battery grip for the t3i if you don't have one already. I remember when I shot on a t3i I purchased that out of whim, and I'm pretty sure I never took it off for 3+ years. It not only extends your battery, but it makes the camera much more comfortable to hold.

Hope some of this helps, sounds like you'll be in good shape! Remember, audio is just as important as video, so it's smart to invest in that type of gear.

u/1369ic · 2 pointsr/audio

If you want to get the most out of your new gear, you should buy a DAC. On-board sound cards are not high quality and you'll be better off getting your DAC chip out of the electrical shit storm going on inside your computer. You can spend anything from $30 or so up to the price of a new house on a DAC. The Behringer UCA202 is popular at the $30 range. If you want a nicer one, I'd recommend the Schiit Modi. And it goes up from there.

As for an amp, opinions vary. Most audiophiles will tell you an integrated amp is better than a receiver, and separates (a power amp and a preamp) are better, and dual mono all the way through is even better (separate amps for the left and right channels).

You could get a craigslist or eBay special and be perfectly fine. If you want a popular and solid integrated, the Emotiva Mini-X a100 is on sale for $170. Emotiva is the kind of the go-to for a lot of budget-minded audiophiles.

Lastly, while those speakers are going to sound very nice, "absolute best" is not only a relative term, it costs a lot more to achieve. Check out /r/zeos/ for a lot of good information.

u/jake1825 · 1 pointr/Twitch

Welcome to the Twitch Community!

Regarding the mic echo, I'd suggest to use OBS to stream. There is a Microphone Noise Gate in-built to the program, where you can tweak your microphone settings. If you know its room echo, then you could muffle some of it by putting ie. blankets around the room to cancel out any reverb or echo.

If you're still looking for a good microphone at a decent price, the Blue Snowball still stands proud in quality/price ratio. Its a very good microphone to start off. Currently its 59$ on Amazon, so 10$ over your price range, but you can trust me its well worth the savings. Keep in mind that audio makes 50% of your content and sometimes is even more important than your video.
Try and position your microphone close to your mouth without any obstructions in between. The audio will vary depending on the pickup pattern.

Good luck with the livestreams and recording. If you'd like any more help or some opinion on products, send a PM my way, and I'll reply ASAP. Once again, glad to have you in the community!

GLHF

u/Nine_Cats · -1 pointsr/buildastudio

Honestly, the Blue Yeti is actually a slightly better mic but it is USB and thus gives you no options to expand when you realize that recording guitar and vocals separately is so much better.
The XLR version of the Blue Yeti is twice the price, making it not worthwhile. Since you're already saying you want to record two things, you should discount the idea of the Yeti immediately.

What is your price range?
The best recommendation is the Focusrite 2i2.
This is easily worth the $50 more than the next option worth considering, the M-Track, even though the Focusrite 2i2 does not allow you to plug in an electric guitar without going through an amp or DI box and the M-Track does.






If you're wondering what the best use of your money is to get the sound you want to get, I can't tell you. If you're wondering if $50 for the AT2020 is a good investment, the answer is yes and you should buy two for stereo.

Look it up on YouTube, see if you like what you hear. I have 3 of them and like them but you can hear that they are rather "bright" almost in a tinny metallic way.

u/Oneloosetooth · 1 pointr/microphones

I do not agree with previous responder at all.

So.... You are a starter and are probably dipping your toe into the pool for the first time. You are also on r/microphones asking about decent mics, I mean some of the people here will have spent $1000's on a single microphone.

There are plenty of decent entry level microphones from good manufacturers for about $100 or more. But there are also options for people who want something for gaming/streaming and do not want to spend a lot. Those of us who spend money on mics look down on them, but the reality is they are fine for low end stuff....

My friend, when he bought a mic for playing PUBG with me bought something like this...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00XOXRTX6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511793284&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Microphone&dpPl=1&dpID=41Eb5zzJy8L&ref=plSrch

I realise it is a UK link, apologies. But it is fine... A good bit of kit, we play PUBG and it is great. Would you want to record yourself singing on it? Probably not.

Now.... The biggest problem that you have, if you were to buy that kit, is powering it. The power is through the 3.5mm jack and Mac's cannot do that. Watch the following review:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?list=PLzEW-dm_vsRvIbU0CSlArUBwsmbtpiSZk&v=lUBS7JhQj7g

USB mics are a good way to go and can be got for less than $100. Here is the same reviewers budget mics playlist...

https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzEW-dm_vsRvIbU0CSlArUBwsmbtpiSZk

Maybe a good middle road is a Samson microphone. Google Samson USB. It should bring up the Samson Meteor and Samson SAC01UPRO mic... Both fit your budget. But again, make sure of Mac compatability before purchase. You can then buy a cheap boom arm from Amazon.

u/RatherNott · 3 pointsr/linuxhardware

Like /u/ulgreswo, I used a different card; the Xonar DG. In my case, it did work under linux alright, but I'd always have to tamper with a setting under alsamixer in the terminal to get it to output sound on any fresh install of linux. Not sure if the DGX would be any different in that regard.

Also the audio-quality wasn't really all that spectacular, as I would still get buzzing and beeps due to interference from the LAN port.

In the end, I sold it and instead replaced it with this external USB DAC (Digital to Analog Converter), which was very affordable, and put out excellent sound. This particular DAC interested me due to the well written review on the Amazon page from Jayteck, where he describes replacing the capacitors on the board for even better sound quality. I followed the instructions contained in the comments, and found that it does indeed sound quite superb when these modifications are done (though it sounded better than the Xonar DG even without the mod).

Alternatively, I've also read great things on various audio enthusiast forums about this Behringer DAC, which is also quite affordable.

Due to using USB, both of those DAC's are plug-n-play with Linux, and require absolutely no configuration to get working. The only potential downside is that they do not have microphone inputs, and only output stereo audio.

u/CBarberena · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Okay then what I would do is buy a guitar headphone amp they are cheap like less then $20 USD, and plug it into the out for the fx loop, and your headphones into that. This only utilizes the preamp portion of you amp but it is probably the most cost effective. If you do this and the guitar headphone amp has a gain option turn that all the way down. A similar option to this would be to plug your fx out into a DAW or some kind of audio mixer this would also give you the option to record yourself on a computer without being effected by room acoustics. If you want to you can use the other output but that will damage your headphones unless you buy a line level converter. Then the analog from the converter to a headphone amp, and from there to your headphones. This would require you to do some simple wireing, but hey if your up for it why not try.
I also want you to make sure you know the people on this thread including me are NOT professionals and you should do you own research and only do what you feel comfortable doing with your money and equipment.
If you would like to do more research here is a good place to start.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line_level
Also here are links to example of the things I mentioned
Guitar headphone amp - Monoprice 611500 Mini Headphone Amplifier for Guitar, Clean https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJHE5E6/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_95ZExbPNDRWFP
Electro-Harmonix Headphone Amp Portable Practice Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UIBQEI/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_E6ZExb9S9N2V7
DAW - Focusrite Scarlett Solo (2nd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools | First https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_N7ZExbDTYTZC7
Mixer - Behringer Xenyx 302USB Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EHILV4/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_58ZExb4RMVW9V
Line level converter - PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_O9ZExbPEZPHXN
Hope I helped in some way and hope you find your solution!

u/Redtuzk · 1 pointr/microphones

I'd stay off the Snowball completely, it doesn't offer nearly the same voice or built quality as the other microphones that you listed, even the Meteor. A Yeti would fit your needs well. It offers superior quality to the Meteor/Snowball and has a couple of features that you'll probably appreciate. It's not for nothing that so many content-creators use it.

Another choice would be a RØDE NT-USB - it might be slightly outside your budget but offers similar quality to the Yeti (if not slightly better) and matches your colortheme.

There's also the AT2020USB+. It doesn't come with a particularly fantastic stand or anything, so a boomarm of sorts would be a good investment alongside it. It probably offers the best quality out of all the microphones listed above, along with having the correct color of course.

Finally, the only place I could find the black Meteor was on the US Amazon store, but unless you're willing to pay import taxes that's going to be a costly experience. The Meteor is imo the undisputed value king in all this though, sounds very good for the price. I bought one myself when they were on sale a while back for LAN purposes etc where I can't bring my entire main-mic setup.

Hope that helps you out!

u/DrunkieMunkie · 3 pointsr/Twitch

Hola! I set all this up last year so it’s a bit rusty!

This is a shopping list for an Xbox One mixer setup similar to mine and you may need some help filling in a few gaps and the wiring!

So the idea is to build a setup to be able to use an awesome mic to talk to the stream as well as party chat ‘at the same time’ (which I prefer over using a headset) but to also be able to hear game/chat/PC audio though a single pair of headphones and control their volume levels in one place with ease.

I don't need sound going out to my PC as the Cap card is getting that from the Console via HDMI.
Streaming Xbox to PC then the WORLD!

Xbox – hdmi into a cap card in the PC Avermedia live gamer hd
http://www.amazon.co.uk/AverMedia-61C9850000AE-Avermedia-Live-Gamer/dp/B007SRYAPO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1447858313&sr=8-2&keywords=live+gamer+hd
This grabs the game audio and that’s that bit done, stream using OBS and boom!

Here's is my shopping list for party chat:

Mixer

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150891&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+mixer
Headset Buddy (Real name, I didn’t make that up!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-PC35-PH25-Computer/dp/B002D41HKS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421341934&sr=1-3&keywords=headset+buddy

Xbox Chat Thing:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00IAVDOS6

Cable from Buddy to Mixer:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150937&sr=8-1&keywords=hosa+cables

Cable from Mixer to Buddy!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMS-105-3-5mm-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B000068O35/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857349&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+TRS+to+1%2F4+inch

Xbox Mixer(s)

Astro Mixamp (I use)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ASTRO-Gaming-3AM99-HBU9X-975-ASTROGAMING-MIXAMP/dp/B004L6C6BK/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1447856882&sr=1-4&keywords=astro+mixamp

Earforce DSS (an option!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Force-Channel-Dolby-Surround-Processor-Mac/dp/B003O0KICS/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1421378828&sr=1-1&keywords=dss1

Ground Loop things:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headphone-Ground-Isolator-Filter-Stereo/dp/B00INV5LB6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41-9H3Hc3mL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1TTNMJANJDTK26VVSAE7

Although I have used these ones because I didn’t see the ones above!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-201-086-Skytronic-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857227&sr=8-1&keywords=Ground+Loop+Isolator

Mic wise any XLR mic is fine!

Here is a link to a image i found that kinda helps piece it all together! http://imgur.com/UYaQQUZ

Here is a quick vid of my setup, happy to help if i can! http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/26306849

Heres is my latest Xbox One vid with party chat but it picks up the Public Lobby if they speak!
http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/31799799

dM

u/Clint99 · 1 pointr/microphones

Hello everyone! I should be mentioning, I've been using the built-in microphone of my Astro A40s for 4 years, using Adobe Audition in conjuction with VB Audio Cable to make audio quality not-so-shitty through live noise canceling. But right now the mic is making some kind of slitherine sound I can't fix, so I really really should just get a good microphone and be done with it. The Astros are still working very good, hence I'm here asking for your help! My budget is currently at around €120, but I don't mind going just a tad bit over that (±20). If it's lower, and you think it's still a very good choice, I surely won't mind. My goal is just to have a decent all around mic, to avoid me the hassle of using Audition to live-fix my sound. I'd like to be able to record without the need of post-production for audio fixing. A friend linked me those two (very very low price-range), what do you think?

https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B00XOXRTX6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1IM96RSBPC3L0

https://www.amazon.it/dp/B01KHMUQ2M?psc=1

I like the Tonor, but I don't really know much about microphones. I don't think he does either, to be quite honest. Are there any better mics for that price range?

I know I'm very likely being annoying at this point, but if you could recommend mics for different price ranges (e.g. 40-60, 70-90, 100-120), I'd be the happiest man alive.


TL;DR: Win7 64bit; Astro A40 headset (mic is broken, that's why I'm here); €120 max budget (±20); would be used for YouTube videos, Discord/TeamSpeak/Google Hangouts; I'd prefer multiple recommendations for different price ranges (preferably low-mid-high price).


Thanks in advance, r/microphones!

u/Onotaro · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Keep in mind that if you want to upgrade to a higher-quality microphone or bigger setup, you may have trouble integrating USB gear into that setup, and a better USB microphone will cost much more than an equivalent analog microphone. So, if you see yourself upgrading to a better microphone in the future, or getting a more "professional" sound system, you may want to stray away from USB. If you go for an analog microphone and an audio interface, you will usually have better sound quality at the same price points as well.

With that said, I would go with the MXL 770 and a Focusrite iTrack Solo. I use a Focusrite product myself. These are very capable and well-regarded budget home recording devices.

Now how do we get this in budget? In audio, it's not a bad idea to go used or open box. For example, you can grab a Focusrite iTrack Solo from eBay right now for for $70 or less. Buy the MXL 770 from Amazon, a Neewer boom stand, and a XLR cable, and you've got yourself a very capable and easily upgradable kit for $165. Then, if you want to upgrade in the future, you can jump up to a more pro-level microphone and still support it on the iTrack, or if you need to plug in more microphones or instruments, you can get another interface and still use the MXL 770.

TL;DR I would highly recommend going for a non-usb microphone like the MXL 770 and a budget audio interface. With an extra $25 and some smart shopping, you can get some equipment that sounds better AND will save you money with future upgrades.

Feel free to ask me any questions you have.

Source: Amateur radio producer, person who spent too much and thought too little on his initial audio purchases.

u/Setari · 1 pointr/letsplay
  1. You're gonna need to upgrade your rig. As much RAM as you can afford(or 12-16GB IMO, some people may disagree but I run 16GB of RAM), a good graphics card (Can't go wrong with Nvidia GTX series: http://www.newegg.com) HDD for video storage (at least 1TB), using Windows 10 pretty much works with everything IMO that I've played so far running from when W10 came out into 2016 and it's the latest windows as well.

  2. Blue Snowball Mic 39.99USD Blue Snowball Mic(PINK FOR THIS PRICE) or a Yeti mic if you can afford it Yeti Microphone 100USD for a quality mic like the Yeti definitely is NOT a bad deal if you can afford it, but the Blue Snowball is a great quality mic as well. (And nobody's gonna see you using a pink mic and it's the cheapest right now!)

  3. By your wording you seem to think "steam games" is just a group of games with the same requirements for all of them, and they're not. Each game is going to have its own computer specs requirement, so make sure you meet the minimums for each game before you go around and buy a bunch of games to record after you upgrade your hardware. This ain't consoles.

  4. You don't need a facecam to be successful.

    Also one last tip: If you're going to be starting your own channel instead of contributing to someone else's or something, just play whatever the hell you want. Growth will be VERY slow unless you're a SEO/Marketing wizard. Just keep putting quality content out and subs and views will come.

u/Thetwodud · 12 pointsr/letsplay

People here are recommending the Blue Yeti, but it is a terrible recommendation for people who can't control background noise. The Blue Yeti is a Condenser style microphone, which tend to be more prone to picking up background noise compared to Dynamic microphones. I tried making the Yeti work for me for about 4 years before switching to a dynamic mic and the difference was night and day.

I recommend looking up Dynamic Microphones to see if you can find one that works in your budget. I personally use the ATR 2100, which has a good balance of being fairly cheap and decent quality.

As /u/WallpaperOwl recommended, you can get a good deal of information about most microphones out there by checking out the Podcastage Youtube Channel. I highly recommend it as the host tests each microphone fairly thoroughly.

Again, I'd recommend avoiding a condenser mic like the Blue Yeti, unless you are able to invest heavily in reducing background noise. It does have decent sound quality, it's just hard to get that without also picking up the sounds of the rest of your house.

Good luck on your search for the perfect microphone!

u/glassd · 1 pointr/headphones

Shit is getting expensive here. I managed to buy my pair of m50x for 120 not that long ago on amazon.ca. But I doubt you will be able to find them for that price now.

I can list a few options for you based on popular products.

Closed headphones:

Sennheiser HD 280 PRO
They are 112 right now, so a good deal. The only thing with them is that they are super analytical, so they have a very flat response.


Audio Technica ATH-M40X
The little borther to the m50x. Still a good pair of cans. A little less bass but still have the same sound stage as the m50x. Going for 130.

Open Headphones:

Audio Technica ATH-AD500x
These are a no brainier if you want them for gaming. Open sound stage really makes for good location accuracy. Still great sound quality for other uses. They are super open, so they won't be good for walking around. 130.

In Ear:

RHA MA750
No one will argue with these. They sound amazing, come with all the tips you could want. Have a great sound stage for in ears. A little pricey at 150 but so worth it.

Shure SE215
I loved these. I used them until they fell apart, then I upgraded to the MA750. Warm mid forward sound. I would recommend getting some comply tips for them. They go for 125.

u/Karma_Vampire · 6 pointsr/Twitch

A good microphone is probably the most important thing a streamer can have, other than of course a great personality and good social skills, so buying him a microphone would be a great idea. I read that you're looking at spending a maximum of $200. For $200 you should probably buy a USB microphone, as they don't require any kind of external hardware like a mixer or an audio interface. They're generally slightly worse quality, but that doesn't really matter because the audio quality will be compressed anyway, and only audiophiles would be looking for studio quality audio from a gaming livestream.

The higher quality option is an XLR microphone, but they require an audio interface. This will generally be a more expensive option because audio interfaces are usually just as expensive as microphones, so I wouldn't choose this option if I were you. An XLR microphone, a microphone arm, and an audio interface will cost around $250 if not more.

If you decide to go for a microphone, I would say you should go for an AT2020 USB microphone. It's by far the best option if you want good audio quality for a good price. You could go for the Streaming/Podcasting pack if you want headphones and a microphone arm included, which maxes out your budget. It's actually a bit cheaper than buying the mic and a good microphone stand seperately, plus you get a pair of decent looking headphones to go with it.

I can't really vouch for the microphone arm and the headphones as I haven't tried them personally, but Audio Technica is a really good brand. I would be surprised if it wasn't superb quality.

Let me know if you have any questions :)