Nope, just run this script from the arch wiki:

!/bin/bash

shopt -s nullglob<br />
for g in /sys/kernel/iommu_groups/*; do<br />
    echo &quot;IOMMU Group ${g##*/}:&quot;<br />
    for d in $g/devices/*; do<br />
        echo -e &quot;\t$(lspci -nns ${d##*/})&quot;<br />
    done;<br />
done;<br />

My output is below. What you are looking out for is mainly to find at least one USB controller that is in its own group. For my VM I pass the amd usb 3.0 controller(group 20). I then could use the onboard asmedia usb 3.1 controller for my host, but instead I just use a pci express card for that. I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 since it is very stable. The asmedia controller isn't the most stable thing in the world.

​

IOMMU Group 0:
00:01.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 1:
00:01.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 10:
00:08.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 11:
00:08.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to Bus B [1022:1454]
IOMMU Group 12:
00:14.0 SMBus [0c05]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SMBus Controller [1022:790b] (rev 59)
00:14.3 ISA bridge [0601]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH LPC Bridge [1022:790e] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 13:
00:18.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 0 [1022:1460]
00:18.1 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 1 [1022:1461]
00:18.2 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 2 [1022:1462]
00:18.3 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 3 [1022:1463]
00:18.4 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 4 [1022:1464]
00:18.5 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 5 [1022:1465]
00:18.6 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 6 [1022:1466]
00:18.7 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 7 [1022:1467]
IOMMU Group 14:
01:00.0 Non-Volatile memory controller [0108]: Phison Electronics Corporation E12 NVMe Controller [1987:5012] (rev 01)
IOMMU Group 15:
03:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:43d0] (rev 01)
03:00.1 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset SATA Controller [1022:43c8] (rev 01)
03:00.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Bridge [1022:43c6] (rev 01)
16:00.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:01.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:02.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:03.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:04.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:08.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
1b:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: Fresco Logic FL1100 USB 3.0 Host Controller [1b73:1100] (rev 10)
1c:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: ASMedia Technology Inc. ASM1142 USB 3.1 Host Controller [1b21:1242]
IOMMU Group 16:
1d:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 [GeForce GTX 1070] [10de:1b81] (rev a1)
1d:00.1 Audio device [0403]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 High Definition Audio Controller [10de:10f0] (rev a1)
IOMMU Group 17:
1e:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: NVIDIA Corporation GP106 [GeForce GTX 1060 3GB] [10de:1c02] (rev a1)
1e:00.1 Audio device [0403]: NVIDIA Corporation GP106 High Definition Audio Controller [10de:10f1] (rev a1)
IOMMU Group 18:
1f:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Zeppelin/Raven/Raven2 PCIe Dummy Function [1022:145a]
IOMMU Group 19:
1f:00.2 Encryption controller [1080]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Platform Security Processor [1022:1456]
IOMMU Group 2:
00:01.3 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 20:
1f:00.3 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:145c]
IOMMU Group 21:
20:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Zeppelin/Renoir PCIe Dummy Function [1022:1455]
IOMMU Group 22:
20:00.2 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 23:
20:00.3 Audio device [0403]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) HD Audio Controller [1022:1457]
IOMMU Group 3:
00:02.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 4:
00:03.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 5:
00:03.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 6:
00:03.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 7:
00:04.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 8:
00:07.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 9:
00:07.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to Bus B [1022:1454]

That's good the motherboard ports still work. There's a couple things you can get for more. There's just a simple external usb hub, an internal 3.5" sata hub, or an internal pcie hub ( if you're case/motherboard will support either of those).

That cpu is definitely no slouch, I don't think it needs an upgrade.

The 750 ti is a little under-powered nowadays, but it should still run those games somewhat ok. If you wanted to upgrade it I'd say an rx 470 would be a great idea. If you check r/buildapcsales you can find them for about $140 sometimes. Need to make sure your power supply and case will fit it though. Do you know what the power supply is? The case is probably fine as long as it's not one of those tiny ones.

A second monitor (or just nicer, what's the one you have?) could certainly be nice for just everyday use / multitasking. It wouldn't really make gaming a ton better unless you got a high end one like 144hz or even 1440p (which you would also need a better video card for). An i5 3470 + rx 470 should play pretty much any current game on med-high settings at 1080p 60fps.

If you don't already have an SSD I'd say that should definetly be part of the upgrade. It's one of the best things you can do to make a computer feel faster/snappier. It won't improve gaming fps. But putting the OS and most used programs/games will make the whole system feel super quick.

$800-1000 could definitely build a pretty beast rig. But imo it's not really worth it for your needs. Some good upgrades would be best I think.

The rift is a very good deal right now, coming in at $200 cheaper for the controller+headset it's hard not to recommend that route until HTC drops their price a bit, but I will give you my observations.

If you have space I recommend the Vive as tracking can get wonky on the Rift in a large space(bigger than 4m diag), and having a large space for VR actually makes VR much more gratifying in my opinion. The Vive is also a bit better for people willing to tinker and upgrade as it is a little more open and available for those sort of things(see tpcast, delux audio strap, aGlass). Initial setup on the Vive is also a bit easier since the two trackers only need power cabled to it, while the rifts cameras require usb cords(no power) running all the way to the computer.

The Rift is definitely more ergonomic, and it breathes better causing less heat and sweating. It's possibly the more cost effective purchase at $200 cheaper, and it has more of that polished just works kind of look and feel to everything. I like to compare it to an Apple vs Android sort of thing, while SteamVR is a little more robust(android), Oculus home feels a bit cleaner and more polished(iOS). Then again, you can always just use SteamVR on the rift natively if you want since it supports both headsets, Oculus home only works with the rift. As far as the just works part, The nice thing with the rift is you just put it on pick up the controllers and you are in, it even has voice commands that work very well to launch the game. There is no on/off button on anything, it all just works and starts automatically when you put it on as long as your computer is on, don't even have to start up oculus home. The Vive has a similar autostart feature, but it is a bit more clunky, requires steam to be running, doesn't always work in my experience, and requires holding a power button on the headset to initialize followed by the power buttons on both controllers.

If you go with the Rift I highly recommend buying a third camera as this will allow tracking basically on par with the Vive outside of large areas and also has the added benefit of having a bit better occlusion resistance than the Vive which is limited to 2. Also be aware of the USB requirements for the rift. You are going to want at least 3 free usb 3.0 ports and one usb 2.0 port. If your pc does not have this, I recommend adding this..

https://smile.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494008967&sr=8-4&keywords=pci+usb+3.0

Honestly, even if it does I still recommend one of these as splitting up the usb 3.0 connections between your motherboard and this card helps prevent strain on bandwidth which can lead to tracking issues, and if your pc is capable running everything through usb 3.0 instead of one on 2.0 helps tracking as well.

• Corsair RGB memory, white, 16 GB
  
• Corsair RGB LL120 fans, white, 3 pack
  
• Corsair RGB LL120, white, for CPU cooler
  
• White CPU cooler
  
• In Win 301 in white
  
• 1 TB NVMe SSD
  

• 80+ Gold power supply
  

  
  

  > ##I want some nice RGB fans and the RGB ram to hopefully have a build with a white case and pink lights
  

  
  

  If you want addressable RGB, the best software and the biggest selection of products is from Corsair. This build has Corsair products: case fans, replacement heat sink fan, system memory.
  

  
  

  > ##Corsair 650W RM 80+ Gold Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
  

  
  

  I depart from meta with my choice of power supplies. That is a good supply, and you should feel free to purchase. I would get a cheaper and lower-capacity power supply.
  

  
  

  Now 500 Watts is a mainstream size. Corsair has seen their average capacity sold drop by 150 Watts. There is no longer a need to over provision power supplies, other then fan-stop features. Power supply efficiency is now a plateau, rather than a bell. (This is all from the Guru.)
  

  
  

  
  

  JohnnyGuru now works for Corsair. He has been interviewed recently by PCWorld WRT Power: JonnyGuru debunks old power supply myths | Ask a PC expert
  

  
  

  The Guru has said the same things as Linus Tech Tips and GamersNexus:
  

  
  

  >...it became more blatantly apparent when our massively overkill set up of a high-end enthusiast 6850K and Dual GTX 1080s drew just over a third of the Wattage [430 Watts], while under heavy load, of a standard flagship power supply at 1200 Watts, WTS...
  

  
  

  Linus Tech Tips: Why High Wattage Power Supplies Are Stupid
  

  
  

  >We started working on this revisit last week, using a soon-to-be-released Bronze 450W PSU as a baseline, seeing as we’ve recently advocated for more 400-450W PSUs in PC builds. We'll be able to share more about this PSU (and its creator and name) soon.
  

  
  

  Gamers Nexus: How Many Watts You Need for Mid-Range Gaming PCs (2017)
  

  
  

  While this last Gamers Nexus video is from 2017, in the recent PCWorld interview with Johnny Guru we are told that power usage has dropped in recent years.
  

  
  

  > ##Deepcool Captain 240 PRO CPU Liquid Cooler
  

  
  

  I cut this out because it would not have the Corsair RGB fans. It would come with non-matching Deepcool fans that could not be in the same software. These would have to be tossed, wasting money.
  

  
  

  I also think that water cooling is not worth the money. It cools about the same, when comparing top-quality contenders. CLC/AIO coolers only lasts a few years, if used 24/7 (see the Hardware Unboxed video).
  

  
  

  
  

  Linus Tech Tips: Why you shouldn't water cool your PC
  

  
  

  Hardware Unboxed: AIOs that run 24/7 die young
  

  
  

  Jay-Z's Two Cents: Custom Waterloop vs Noctua Air Cooling
  

  
  

  > ##I want to be able to use VR
  

  
  

  Then add a USB card, this one from StarTech is a favorite with VR people: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/
  

  
  

  If you want to use VR, you might need a fancy PCIe card with 4 USB controllers. That way all your trackers get their own path back to PCIe.
  

  
  

  > ##Seagate 2TB Barracuda 3.5" 7200RPM
  

  
  

  With a larger SSD, you do not need the noise of 7200 rpm. Your main games are going to be on the SSD, while the mechanical storage will be media and backup. I have switched to a 2.5" hybrid drive to save noise.
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker Part List
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | *AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | $194.00 @ Amazon
  CPU Cooler | Deepcool GAMMAXX 400 White 74.34 CFM CPU Cooler | $31.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Motherboard | *MSI B450M PRO-VDH MAX Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $83.98 @ Newegg
  Memory | *Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $92.99 @ Amazon
  Storage | *Samsung 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $149.99 @ Newegg
  Storage | *Seagate FireCuda 2 TB 2.5" 5400RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive | $89.99 @ Adorama
  Video Card | *MSI GeForce GTX 1660 Super 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card | $249.99 @ Newegg
  Case | In Win 301 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $86.98 @ SuperBiiz
  Power Supply | *EVGA GD (2019) 500 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply | $55.98 @ Newegg
  Case Fan | Corsair LL120 RGB White with Lighting Node PRO 63 CFM 120 mm Fans | $119.99 @ Amazon
  Case Fan | Corsair LL120 RGB 63 CFM 120 mm Fan | $35.99 @ Amazon
  | Total | $1191.87
  | | *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
  
  
  MSI MAX motherboards have the needed BIOS installed that PCPartPicker warns you about needing.
  
  In Win makes the 301 better, down to the quality of the glass, paint, and steel. While most cases are made of 0.4-0.8 mm steel, they often use 0.6-1.2 mm steel. It helps hold in noise and makes the edges less sharp. They make the 301 in black and in white, this list has white
  
  This is my favorite non-SFF case: IN WIN 301 Tempered Glass Mini Tower Case Review
  
  >The In Win 301 is a mini tower case [...] How good is it? Dollar for dollar it could be the best affordable case on the market right now.
  
  As the case comes with zero fans, I included 3 RGB LED fans. This case is meant to have two exhaust in the front, one exhaust in the back, and have passive intake via the filtered bottom. Some reviewers did not know how to set up the fans, and tried to make the front an intake.
  
  This case has a lot of nice details: captive thumbscrews, remove-to-install fan bracket, anti-vibration 3.5" mechanical disk sled (just one). You can see the stealthy graphics card anti-sag bracket in this BPS Customs video about this case: In Win 301 - Micro ATX Tempered Glass Style

1. ECC support -- If the memory of your QNAP gets corrupted, then your data is lost in transit. By buying ECC Memory, I virtually guarantee that this will not happen to me. (ECC RAM is very similar in concept to RAID6 or RAID5, except instead of for disks ECC RAM is for RAM). Because the entire computer I built is out of ECC RAM, I have one more layer of assurances that the data is safe.
   
   I have unconfirmed ECC Support. Error Correction does not work on this motherboard as I hoped.
   
   
2. ZFS Support -- ZFS is an enterprise filesystem designed to store data and store data well. Bitrot can destroy your data EVEN if you are running RAID drives. By using ZFS (which is constantly scrubbing, checksumming, and double-checking the data), my system is immune to bitrot. Your typical NAS is not.
   
   
3. The Motherboard immediately supports 6 hard drives. The QNAP only supports 2-drives. In the future, when I buy more drives, I can easily expand my computer. The QNAP is stuck with 2-bay at the maximum.
   
   
4. I'm comfortable with FreeBSD -- This is a soft advantage, but I work with Linux systems at work (and Windows at home and work). So I'm very comfortable with tools like RSync and the command line in general. In any case, I have a clear backup strategy for the NAS: insert an external hard drive (probably NTFS formatted) and then RSync the data to the hard drive, and then store the hard drive elsewhere.
   
   
5. ZFS Snapshots -- ZFS has a lot of advantages. Another major advantage that I plan to take advantage of is snapshots. The entire disk can be stored as a snapshot that only takes up space when files are modified. With ZFS Snapshots, I can rollback the filesystem very easily.
   
   
6. I have a full PC -- This box is a fully functioning PC. If I decided to splurge, I can buy a SAS Card and then start chunking out LTO6 tapes (Which are only $30 for 2.5TB of storage). Granted, a LTO6 Tape Drive is extremely expensive, but a "full PC" has almost no limit to the customization options available to me. A more realistic option is to just buy a cheap expansion card and support maybe... 4 more hard drives in my case for only a $40 upgrade.
   
   ----------
   
   So basically, my points come down to:
   
   
7. Reliability (ECC RAM)
   
8. Reliability (ZFS Protection vs Bitrot)
   
9. ZFS Snapshots and Cloning.
   
10. Expandability (6-SATA drives easy. More with a cheap expansion card)
    
11. Expandability
    
12. I personally have familiarity with *nix command line and can comfortably do advanced tasks on Nas4Free beyond what is even available on the WebGUI.
    
    Bitrot is a very simple problem to understand. What happens if instead of failing, a Hard Drive starts returning bad data to you? In traditional RAID, the hard drive has NOT crashed, so parity will not be checked. The file may be corrupted despite RAID protecting you. ZFS adds more checks to protect against this problem, while traditional RAID (which most NAS uses) do not.
    
    There are additional features that are interesting (Webserver support, Bittorrent support, DLNA server, Headless Virtualbox). But I don't plan to do anything complicated. So I'm mostly focused on reliability.
    
    Of course, NAS4Free supports the standard NAS features. You can easily add hard drives to zpools which can then be added to datastores. Volumes can be exported with iSCSI. Datastores can be exported using CIFS / Samba for Microsoft support, NFS for Linux Support, AFP support to support Mac OSX... or all three if you got a complicated setup. QNAP, Synology and all the commercial solutions will get you at least this much, which is hugely useful.

This is on BIOS version 1201 (AGESA 1.0.0.3ABBA). Kernel is not patched for ACS. IOMMU group separation could use some work. I've worked around this by adding a Fresco Logic PCI-E USB card to my setup; used it previously for VR and now it's working great as dedicated USB ports for a VM. I have WiFi disabled, not sure where it goes. I've also got an NVMe drive (group 21) and GTX 1080 (group 25) passed through with zero problems.

IOMMU Group 0:
00:01.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 1:
00:01.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse GPP Bridge [1022:1483]
IOMMU Group 10:
00:14.0 SMBus [0c05]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SMBus Controller [1022:790b] (rev 61)
00:14.3 ISA bridge [0601]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH LPC Bridge [1022:790e] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 11:
00:18.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 0 [1022:1440]
00:18.1 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 1 [1022:1441]
00:18.2 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 2 [1022:1442]
00:18.3 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 3 [1022:1443]
00:18.4 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 4 [1022:1444]
00:18.5 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 5 [1022:1445]
00:18.6 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 6 [1022:1446]
00:18.7 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 7 [1022:1447]
IOMMU Group 12:
01:00.0 Non-Volatile memory controller [0108]: Samsung Electronics Co Ltd NVMe SSD Controller SM951/PM951 [144d:a802] (rev 01)
IOMMU Group 13:
02:00.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57ad]
IOMMU Group 14:
03:01.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 15:
03:02.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 16:
03:03.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 17:
03:05.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 18:
03:08.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a4]
08:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Reserved SPP [1022:1485]
08:00.1 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:149c]
08:00.3 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:149c]
IOMMU Group 19:
03:09.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a4]
09:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 2:
00:01.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse GPP Bridge [1022:1483]
IOMMU Group 20:
03:0a.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a4]
0a:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 21:
04:00.0 Non-Volatile memory controller [0108]: Samsung Electronics Co Ltd NVMe SSD Controller SM981/PM981/PM983 [144d:a808]
IOMMU Group 22:
05:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD/ATI] Baffin [Radeon RX 460/560D / Pro 450/455/460/555/555X/560/560X] [1002:67ef] (rev cf)
05:00.1 Audio device [0403]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD/ATI] Baffin HDMI/DP Audio [Radeon RX 550 640SP / RX 560/560X] [1002:aae0]
IOMMU Group 23:
06:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: Fresco Logic FL1100 USB 3.0 Host Controller [1b73:1100] (rev 10)
IOMMU Group 24:
07:00.0 Ethernet controller [0200]: Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd. RTL8111/8168/8411 PCI Express Gigabit Ethernet Controller [10ec:8168] (rev 26)
IOMMU Group 25:
0b:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 [GeForce GTX 1080] [10de:1b80] (rev a1)
0b:00.1 Audio device [0403]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 High Definition Audio Controller [10de:10f0] (rev a1)
IOMMU Group 3:
00:02.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 4:
00:03.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 5:
00:03.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse GPP Bridge [1022:1483]
IOMMU Group 6:
00:04.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 7:
00:05.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 8:
00:07.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
00:07.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
0c:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Function [1022:148a]
IOMMU Group 9:
00:08.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
00:08.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
00:08.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
00:08.3 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
0d:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Reserved SPP [1022:1485]
0d:00.1 Encryption controller [1080]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Cryptographic Coprocessor PSPCPP [1022:1486]
0d:00.3 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:149c]
0d:00.4 Audio device [0403]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse HD Audio Controller [1022:1487]
0e:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
0f:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)

I have the 990 MT with the i7-2600. I would suggest buying the corsair CX550 or CX600 psu for this as it is the EXACT size of the stock PSU you need to install using the case's included mounting bracket. If you don't get the right size the bracket will get in the way of installing the side panel.

This one ----> https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CX600-Supply-Bronze-Certified/dp/B0092ML0MY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522928777&sr=8-4&keywords=corsair%2Bcx%2Bseries%2B550%2Bwatt%2B80%2Bplus%2Bbronze%2Bcertified&dpID=51YFU0kvQJL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1

I would go with at least the 500 watt model, but I have the 550 watt, you can find them on sale usually.

When it comes to the GPU, just make sure you are buying one that is less than 8" in length. I have the EVGA SC GTX1060 3gb ---- single fan model that is factory overclocked.

Just make sure you aren't trying to install a GPU that runs off only the PCI-E power as it only supplies a max of 50ish watts or less to the card (Dell says only 35watts, but it will push a little more than that). You want a card that will run off the 6 or 8 pin pci-e power connectors on the new PSU.

Picking up 2 more sticks of DDR3 ram is also recommended. I have 16gb in my system now. Keep in mind this board only supports 4 x 4gb dimms of ram. I picked up a matching 8gb kit of matching ram for my machine for $32 from a reputable seller on ebay. just something to keep in the back of your mind.

I've also installed a 4 port usb 3.0 card on my machine. It will fit just fine in the bottom pci-e 16x slot of the mobo. TRUST me, you will want this as the included 2.0 ports are slow as molasses for 3.0 usb drives. You can pick one up here ---> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also decided to go with an ssd for the boot drive and programs. I went with the Samsung Evo 850 250gb. Make sure you place the SATA cable on the furthest right SATA port on the MOBO. This is the only SATA 3.0 port on the motherboard, the next one to the left is a SATA 2.0 port (that I have a 2tb 7200rpm HDD on for storage and games). I wouldn't use the furthest left 2 white sata ports. They are sata 1.0 and the controller is garbage for those two ports and a known issue with these motherboard.

Last thing I would mention is that if you are running this on Windows for gaming, I would stick to the Windows 7 Pro install that came with your machine. Trying to get my GPU and Windows 10 drivers working on my machine was a nightmare and required hours of searching for compatible drivers, also the board in the 990 didn't get the bios update for win 8.1 or win 10. So for the life of this machine --- 2-3 more years, I would stick with win 7 since it is supported till 2020.

GOOD LUCK!!! PM me if you have questions!

If you're definitely planning an upgrade to a GTX 10 series card and a Zen CPU, I would say 100% go for it. Just be aware you're getting subpar performance and any issues you have are almost certainly due to your system and not the Vive. The Vive itself has rock solid tracking and is amazingly fun. You've tried it now so I'm sure you know, but there's just no explaining what being in true Roomscale is quite like. It's almost like being teleported directly into the game. The controllers are exactly where they feel like they are, and Roomscale VR convinces your brain what you're seeing is real. There are plenty of videos of people leaning on VR tables and falling right over :). That kind of thing is totally understandable once you've tried real Roomscale VR and you understand how you have to fight your brain because you know it's just a screen attached to your face, but your brain is telling you it's all real and all right there. For an example, walking through things just feels completely wrong. You know it's a game. You know that table isn't real, but you naturally avoid walking into/through it even though you KNOW for a fact that you can.

It's just the kind of thing you have to see for yourself, and not the kind of thing watching a Let's Play or hearing about can truly demonstrate/explain.

One thing to keep in mind is a lot of PCs don't have good USB controllers. They'll work for most things, but fall short with the Vive. Mine for example has issues with pairing the controllers. Most of the time, my controllers will only pair if they are physically connected over USB to my PC. A ton of people had issues with getting SteamVR to detect the headset, getting the headset or controllers to track, using the front camera, or getting the controllers to pair. The absolute fix for this seems to be getting the Inateck PCI Express USB Controller. This is the one Valve used internally for testing and it is endorsed by Valve for the Vive. I picked one up but haven't tested it out yet, but I'm 99% sure this will fix my controller pairing issue because my controllers pair correctly (wirelessly, automatically when turned on) on my brother's PC but not mine (not always anyway - they pair correctly about 30% of the time, I assume this depends on my USB bandwidth and what else is currently active on the same controller). It's only $20 on Amazon so if you're planning on getting the Vive I would grab one of these too to eliminate any issues you might otherwise have with your USB controller, even the latest and greatest motherboards often have subpar USB controllers because they're "good enough" for your average USB devices.

So yeah, TL;DR: I would totally get it if you definitely are getting an upgraded PC. Even if you can only play some of the games out right now I'm sure you'll have tons of fun - I know I did.

Edit:

• Link to SteamVR Troubleshooting Article where Valve endorses the Inateck 2-Port USB3.0 PCI-Express Card, it's found under Headset > New USB PCI-Express Card.
  
  
• Link to Inateck 2-Port USB3.0 PCI-Express Card on Amazon, it is currently $18.99. Also link to the 5 port version that I picked up and I'm hoping works just as well :).
  
  
• Link to another post where I gave some tips for new Vive users, this is in no way an exhaustive list of tips for new users, but you'll probably learn something useful :).
  
  Edit: I said a Zan CPU... Zan > Zen.

Yeah, it can be a little overwhelming to figure out where to start. Some good answers already in this thread. The good news is it's actually a lot more straight-forward than it appears. The main source of confusion/apparent complexity comes from the fact that right now both the prior gen and new gen models are still on the market, making it appear that there are a ton of headsets. In reality, there are only four that matter:

Oculus Quest: VR for people that don't have or don't want to buy a decent gaming PC. Cordless, entirely self-contained, no PC needed, no external sensors needed, but limited by the mobile hardware specs. MSRP: $399 USD

Oculus Rift S: really the go-to for a first-time VR headset. Great display that solves most of the clarity issues of older headsets, great controllers, uses inside-out tracking like the Quest (i.e. no external sensors to setup), and pretty reasonable PC hardware spec requirements to run it. So quick and easy to setup that once I finished downloading the software installer, I was up and playing VR in only about 10 minutes. The relatively tiny sound is the only real commonplace complaint, but it does have a headphone jack on the headset. $399 USD

The Valve Index: currently the super high-end of VR gaming. Higher resolution display than the Rift S, higher refresh rate, fancy finger-tracking controllers. Also getting some flack for some quality control issues on its thumbsticks. The only one of the new gen VR headsets to still require external sensors and a base station, which are pretty big negatives for VR newbies since that complicates setup and calibration. Due to the higher specs, it also needs a super high-end PC to really get the most out of it. $999 USD for the starter kit, which does include everything you need to get started, although many users recommend purchasing a third lighthouse sensor (the kit comes with two).

The HTC Cosmos: HTC's replacement for the Vive. Not out yet, so exact specs, pricing, and release date are still unknown. However, it has been confirmed that it will use inside-out tracking (so no external sensors to mess with), and cost less than $1000. The latest unofficial rumors are that it is expected to launch this September, and it's expected to have both specs and pricing somewhere between the Rift S and the Index. Worth keeping an eye on.

What not to bother with:
The Vive. Vive was the premium VR headset of its era, so it's not that there is anything wrong with it per se, it's just outdated and obsolete tech. The display and controllers are just inferior to all of the newer kits.

Windows Mixed Reality (WMR): this one is probably responsible for the VR market looking crowded, since this is a standard defined by MS and not a specific headset, and lots of different manufacturers make or have made WMR headsets. So when you see PC VR headsets from Lenovo, HP, Asus, Acer, Dell, Samsung, etc, they are all just competing WMR headsets. The head strap and display vary in quality, but they all use the same controllers, which are generally considered to be inferior to Vive, Oculus, and Index controllers. The main appeal originally of WMR was to make VR cheaper and easier to get into since WMR has the least expensive headset options, and it was the first to use inside-out tracking so no external sensors. However, its inside-out tracking is done with only two forward-facing cameras, so the tracking is significantly inferior to Quest (four onboard cameras) or Rift S (five onboard cameras) inside-out tracking.

As for specs, your graphics card meets the min, but is at the very low-end of the min. You should be able to run older or less demanding VR games just fine, but may have to run newer or visually more sophisticated VR games at low graphics settings to maintain stable framerate. I would expect Beatsaber to run fine.

One last note: VR headsets, the Rift S in particular, can be pretty picky about your USB 3.0 ports. Specifically, ASMedia USB controllers that many motherboards use tend to cause lots of problems with Oculus headsets. This Inatek add-in USB 3.0 controller has solved lots of people's VR headset issues, is officially suggested by Oculus tech support, and is pretty inexpensive at only around $23. If you decide to pick up a VR headset, might be wise to proactively check your USB 3.0 controller and if it's ASMedia just go ahead and order the Intek USB 3.0 controller along with the headset.

I would definitely avoid that hub. With 7 external ports the internal design will be two USB host controllers daisy chained together so 4 of those ports will at a minimum have to go through 3 host controllers to send data back to the PC. Very risky and prone to issues which will be explained below.

Apologies for the wall of text but it is all quite important to explain why USB hubs are not the best idea for a number of reasons. Only go the hub route if you have no other choice like you have a laptop and a PCI card if not an option. If you have a desktop and free PCI slots then grab one of the PCI cards listed at the end of this post.

USB 3.0 Hubs

The main concern with hubs is that there is an additional USB controller in the chain and if one of those controllers is not compatible then you might have tracking issues. The issue with compatibility is VR needs low latency and high bandwidth which is required for good tracking.

So you have something like this using a hub.

PC -> PCI Bus -> USB Controller -> Hub -> USB Controller -> Sensor.

I put together this image on the weekend to explain it to someone else - https://imgur.com/jI6Istl

If anything in that chain is sub standard you have issues. If you have good USB Controllers in that chain you wont see issues. Just remember a quality hub is only as good as the USB port on your PC you plug it into.

It is also recommended to get a powered USB hub if you have to go the hub route. People sometimes encounter not just a bandwidth/latency bottleneck but a power bottleneck. Importantly some PC USB ports can't push out enough power to power all the devices plugged into the hub. Get a powered hub to avoid this possibility.

Below are two brands Anker and Amazon Basics which are the hubs I commonly see people say have worked for the Rift. The 7 port one will have daisy chained USB controllers internally but people have recommended it so they must be good quality.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

or

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Adapter-Devices/dp/B00PBZX0OM


PCI Cards

Here are the cards that Oculus have recommended (I have personally tested the top two cards) .The blog posts at the end of this post might clear up why hubs are hit and miss for some people due to data/latency bottlenecks that might occur.

StarTek 2 port card (1 ASMedia controller) – Cheaper StarTek option that could be used for 2 sensors or a sensor and headset.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HT6K3Q

Supported Inatek 4 port card (1 Fresco controller) – Don't get the 5 or 7 port card as the design is not really suited for Rift sensors as it has daisy chained controllers in the design.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

Use the Inatek for your two front facing cameras and nothing else. Plug your third or fourth USB 2.0 camera and Rift HMD into your motherboard.

Supported StarTek 4 port card (2 Controllers) – Optional middle tier PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to two Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HJZE9VK

Supported StarTek 4 port card (4 Controllers) – Optional top of the range PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to four Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S

Both 4 port StarTek cards are pricey and a bit more than is actually required. You could achieve the same thing with 2x four port Inatek cards.

More reading for why USB controllers are important and how you should connect sensors

Oculus put together some blog posts last year explaining best practices. Parts 2 and 3 of Oculus tracking posts explain the USB subsystems and how to get the best config.

• Part 1: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-tips-for-setting-up-a-killer-vr-room/
  
• Part 2: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-balancing-bandwidth-on-usb/
  
• Part 3: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-identifying-host-controllers/
  
• Part 4: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-extra-equipment/
  
  Finally here is my setup and the placement of USB devices amongst all the USB controllers. https://imgur.com/a/fqgRP5p

Hey there. I must admit I've had the solution for a few weeks but I finally have some free time to post! Looks like good timing.

[I used this HighPoint RocketRAID 2720SGL](http://www.HighPoint.com/ RocketRAID 2720SGL 8-Port SAS 6Gb/s PCIe 2.0 x8 RAID HBA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050SLTPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ASH1BbFM218R3). Worked like a charm. Don't freak out because the controller itself won't see the drives (in bios). Boot into your favorite flavor of Linux and then there are a bunch of commands to get the TRUE byte size. I had to try 3-4 different commands in order to get the right answer.

Now the sg_format will take a loooong time depending on your drive size. There is a flag to just resize instead of formatting, however since these were second hand drives I really didn't mind cleaning it all with fire and also stress testing the drives a little.

The best part about that controller is with a little wiggle and giggle I fit it right into the 710 and used the same sas cables.

Hit me up if you have more questions. Hope this helps!

I can't comment on your specific motherboard but know that most consumer boards won't have more than 2 USB headers. See, the header is the hardware part that let's the USB ports communicate data to the CPU and because most people aren't populating all their USB ports, manufacters don't typically include more than a few.

Now, each header or channel has a maximum throughput of 6gb/s. In practice this is lower close to 5gb/s meaning a typical real world cap of about 500mb/s of data access. Why are these numbers wacky like this, I don't know. But in an ideal setup you want to see hd read speeds around 100mb/s and up. Hence the "4 per header" rule. So as is, I'd expect you to be able to connect 8 to 12 drives to that particular board before you start seeing bottlenecking. This is incredibly lame but luckily the is a solution. One of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00HJZEA2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522184600&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=startech+usb+3.0 that, is a pcie card that occupies a x4 or larger slot giving you an additional 4 USB headers. So that card, or something like it that has DEDICATED controllers/headers will give you the ability to connect 4 drives per controller. Just be wary if you buy something cheaper because it probably doesn't have multiple controllers/headers.

So let's say for example you bought the card I recommend and your motherboard has 3 controllers/headers. That let's you connect up to 28 drives. At that point you're read speeds will suffer simply due to processing power, but that's okay because upgrading GPUs and switching to jminer or compiling creep to run GPU tasks will probably put you back to good. Probably. I can't confirm because I haven't tested jminer yet and compiling creep isn't something I'm versed well enough to do.

Cryptoguru pools are great from what I understand, but realistically and pool listed here https://www.ecomine.earth/burstpools/ that is supporting Dymaxion is worth checking out. Just pick one that looks like it'll line up with your intentions and how much weight you're willing to put towards luck forging blocks. I picked a 0/100 pool because I didn't see myself going above 150ish TB and that's what I personally think the low cutoff is currently to mine at like a 50/50 pool and not feel like I'm missing out on getting paid. Your mileage will vary.

Finally turboplotter. So I didn't start plotting with it, started with xplotter in qbundle, but it is what I finished with. Once you have your account numeric ID entered it's pretty mindless until it's done. It should generate the first set of plots without any additional input but once that drive is done, you point turboplotter at the plot with the highest nonce count and tell it to start on the next drive. This way you avoid potentially overlapping plots, hurting your mining performance.

Raw storage:

• 72TB (9 x 8TB RAIDZ2)
  
  
• 36TB (9 x 4TB RAIDZ2)
  
  Total 108TB(18 drives)
  
  Actual storage:
  
  
• 48TiB
  
  
• 24TiB
  
  Total 72TiB
  
  Case:
  
  
• Nanoxia Deep Silence 6 Rev. B
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DSFDSUS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Nanoxia Deep Silence 3 for parts
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Nanoxia-Computer-Controllers-Motherboard-NXDS3B/dp/B00M49SNVI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497552150&sr=8-2&keywords=nanoxia+deep+silence
  
  Used the two bay 3.5" cage, and three bay 2.5" cage from the Deep Silence 3 case.
  
  Fans:
  
  
• 2 140mm top
  
  
• 2 140mm front
  
  
• 2 120mm middle
  
  
• 1 140mm back
  
  
• 2 140mm cpu
  
  Used two 120mm case fans from the Deep Silence 3 case between the two stacks of drives.
  
  Motherboard: Supermicro X10SRA-F
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O7ZK10S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  CPU: Intel Xeon E5-1620 v3 3.5GHz
  
• https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117512&cm_re=intel_1620-_-19-117-512-_-Product
  
  Heatsink: Noctua DH-D15
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L7UZMAK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  RAM:
  
  
• Micron ECC Registered - 8gb x 4
  
  
• Mircon ECC Registered - 4gb x 4
  
  Total 48gb
  
  PSU: Corsair AX1500i
  
  Controllers:
  
  
• Motherboard - 10 ports
  
  
• LSI 9211-8i - 8 ports
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RL8I7M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
• Marvell - 2 ports
  
  Total 20 ports
  
  NIC: Mellanox Connectx-2 10g
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178CNZ9U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  OS Disks: 2 x Intel 330 60GB, mdadm RAID1
  
  Storage Disks:
  
  
• 9 x Western Digital Red 8TB WD80EFZX
  
  • http://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-easystore-8tb-external-usb-3-0-hard-drive-black/5792401.p?skuId=5792401
    
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BYLY4DM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    Seven shucked from Best Buy WD easystore externals and two from Amazon as internals.
    
    
• 9 x 4TB drives, mix of Seagates and HGST NAS
  
  • 2 x ST4000DM000
    
  • 2 x ST4000DX000
    
  • 4 x HGST_HDN724040ALE640
    
  • 1 x HGST_HDN726040ALE614
    
    • http://www.frys.com/product/9112138?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
      
      I originally shucked the Seagates from externals. I have replaced the Seagates as they fail, and I had one fail during this upgrade. Yes, I have had five Seagate failures.
      
      SATA/SAS cables:
      
      
• 10 36" SATA cables
  
  • http://www.frys.com/product/8057794?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
    
    
• 2 24" SATA cables
  
  • http://www.frys.com/product/8057804?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
    
• 2 SAS four port breakout cables
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018YHS8BS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    OS: Fedora 25 with ZFS for Linux
    
    Cost:
    
    
• Around $2800 without storage
  
  
• Around $3200 for storage
  
  
• Around $6000 total
  
  The cost was spread across years. This is more like two builds in one. My old build with the motherboard, memory, heatsink, CPU, and 4tb drives combined with my new 8tb build. With the 4tb drives I have replaced five of nine drives over time, which has driven up the real total cost.
  
  The case is huge, but all the space is nice. You don't feel like you are cramming anything in. I used a Fractal Design R5 for my previous build, and prefer Fractal Design cases to Nanoxia cases. But the biggest Fractal Design case wouldn't quite suit my needs. Even this was a stretch for the Deep Silence 6 case. I wish the Deep Silence 6 had spots to mount 2.5" drives on the back side like the R5. It is a feature I miss.
  
  I have a few issues. The trays and the screw holes on the WD 8tb drives don't match. The WD drives are missing the middle bottom screw holes. My temporary workaround is strong 3M double sticky foam tape with two screws. I may use a drill and drill holes in the sides of the trays. I had to tape down the 2.5" cage, but the drives are so light it is not a big deal.
  
  After building this beast I had the window closed, the door shut, and no room fan for one day. The room was quite warm. I have since opened the window, turned on the fan, and left the door open.
  
  My Kill-a-watt peaked at 450 watts during boot. It idles between 200-220 watts. So I could go back to my AX760 from my previous build with SATA power splitters.
  
  I still have one tray free, but no extra drive or SATA port.
  
  I was originally going to move the four bay 3.5" cage from the Deep Silence 3, but it was just too integrated into the case. I tried adapting it, and it didn't come out well. Even if it had, the bottom tray was going to sit below the lip of the side of the case. So that tray would have been less accessible.
  
  I am currently copying 18tb from the old array to the new array as a burn-in test.
  
  I got the original idea to build with this case from someone else's post. I probably would have just bought another Fractal Design R5, and run two systems otherwise. I have run two systems for storage before, connected them with 10g, and used iSCSI. When I did I used, https://romanrm.net/mhddfs , to merge the filesystems together. I am considering doing the same again.
  
  With the right cages you could probably fit around 26 3.5" drives in this case.
  
  Over time I have gone from 250gb to 500gb to 1tb to 1.5tb to 2tb to 4tb to 8tb drives. I didn't think I would be upgrading to 8tb anytime soon, until the Best Buy easystore deal. In the past I mostly purchased on Black Fridays. In more recent years externals from Costco.
  
  TLDR: I built a new server combining an existing 24TiB ZFS with a new array of 36TiB ZFS for the win!

Tons of threads like this, so take some time to browse this sub. Also a lot of good info in this sub's wiki In either case here's my quick and dirty off the top of my head in no particular order/level of detail, also some things are just my subjective opinion:

• Take the time to get the HMD situated comfortably on your head. Shouldn't be pressed against your face so hard that it leaves an impression. Back part should be cupping lower back part of your head.
  
• Configure your IPD as best you can.
  
• If you start to feel motion sick or have a headache / eye strain DON'T push through it. Stop and take as long a break as necessary to get back to normal. You may have to start your VR journey in smaller doses until you (hopefully) build up a tolerance.
  
• Since you've never experienced it, don't be put off by the resolution of the Rift. Things like the screendoor effect and god rays you start to lose awareness of the more you use it (especially if you really get immersed in a game).
  
• You'll have 2 sensors with your current bundle. I don't know the size of your room but I would suggest placing them in opposite corners (diagonally) of your playspace. Preferably high up and angled down towards you. Read Oculus blog on the matter
  
• Tied to the above, some people do just fine with 2 sensors (what you'll have out of the box) for 360/roomscale tracking. I went this route for some time and felt it was just fine (not perfect though). Try it out and if you feel you need more stable tracking, look into buying a 3rd sensor.
  
• Hopefully you have no USB bandwidth issues, but if you do, take the time to read through the Oculus blog 1 and Oculus blog 2 posts on the matter. I am one of the unfortunate folks who had USB bandwidth issues on mutiple motherboards and this was, to me, the shittiest aspect of the Rift experience. Once I worked through it (read, bought this card) I was good.
  
• You've got several free games alongside the ones you mentioned. Take the time to experience them all. In addition I recommend Super Hot, Budget Cuts demo (Steam), Rec Room (social/multiplayer).
  
  Everyone's experience varies. If its smooth sailing for you then awesome. If you run into problems, don't stress and take the time to search on this sub for answers. VR is amazing, hope you enjoy it.

ok. thank you so much. kinda lost here.

you were right. i turned down the oc on my ryzen to 1700 at 1.3V and my ram from 3200 to 29xx. that seemed to do the trick although its kinda annoying that i cant run my expensive ram as high as i would like to. and still weird that it worked before, but i will play it safe and look how it turns out for now. maybe run it a few days or even weeks like this to see if its stable. i think the 3,7 on the cpu i can live wiht, but i would love the 3200 on my ram.


for the usb stuff i actually went to amazon and ordered myself an inateck usb3.0 card with 4 ports.

https://www.amazon.de/Inateck-expresskarte-Anschlüsse-SATA-Stromanschluss-Strom-Y-Kabel/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511617276&sr=8-1&keywords=inateck+usb+3

these come with a power connector directly to the psu. maybe that will help with balancing the power for my psu heavy usb devices. maybe i can put 2 rift sensors and 1 webcam on there and that will help balancing things out.

thx again for your help. i really appreciate it.

So you have four corners on the recessed ceiling (higher up), and four corners on the lower ceiling. I would almost prefer to put the cameras in the corners of the lower ceiling, because it would give a more straight-on view of the player/controllers. Each camera has a narrower viewing cone at extreme close proximity. The further from the main playspace they are, the more that cone has a chance to "spread out" and cover the actual playspace. In this case, you would draw your playspace with at least (2 ft) or (0.6 m) distance from each of the four walls, so people don't bash their knuckles at the borders.

However, you might not want your cameras to be further than (12 ft) or (3.6 m) apart from each other (for best tracking quality). I don't have a big enough room to run into this limit, so you may be fine with further spaced out cameras. If the lower ceiling corners are further apart than (12 ft) or (3.6 m), then you may want to put them in the recessed ceiling anyways. You can always ignore the Oculus Rift setup's warnings about camera spacing, by the way. In fact, with larger playspaces, the Oculus setup wizard will always complain. Don't worry about it.

Also, you might want to consider using this USB card. It can handle the throughput of all four cameras in USB 3.0 mode, if desired. You can downgrade any camera to USB 2.0 by simply running a USB 2.0 cable to that camera instead of 3.0. A passive USB 2.0 cable is fine for short runs, but consider an active USB 2.0 cable (like the one that comes in the box of an extra Rift camera) for longer runs. You should put your Rift headset in one of the motherboard's USB 3.0 ports (USB 2.0 might actually be fine), and then put all four cameras (you might only need three cameras) in the USB extension card.

You can search this subreddit for discussions on whether you want/need to have the cameras/headset on 3.0 or 2.0. I prefer to run everything at USB 3.0, but it may not be necessary.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are less than 10 feet (say, those corners nearest to your computer tower), use these passive USB 3.0 cables. You're also going to want a passive USB 3.0 extension for your Rift headset.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are more than 10 feet away, you should use an active USB 3.0 cable. This is necessary for cameras that are further away from your tower. Note that the cable I linked has an optional barrel port for a 12V power supply. You only need to power these cables if you're daisy-chaining two or more of them in a row (for runs longer than (33 ft) or (10 m)).

These CAT6 round cable clips should work well for cable routing, especially for the slightly thicker active USB 3.0 cables. These general-purpose adhesive cable clips work fine for runs of the thinner, passive USB cables, but you may have issues with the adhesive depending on your wall.

You'll want this HDMI extension cable for your Rift headset, to make use of the extra space. I've had a good experience with bunching the HDMI and USB Rift headset extensions together by using these lightweight Velcro ties. I have about a (10 ft) or (3 m) square playspace, so you may encounter different problems than me if your playspace is larger. I only have three cameras, and it works fine. Good luck in your setup, I'm sure whatever you do will work great!

Both the Rift and Vive have their pros and cons, I have both and here is my cut and paste summary of just some of the comparative factors people may consider, as the topic has already been done to death:

The standard 2 forward facing camera Touch tracking has some FOV and distance related Touch occlusion, so a 3rd camera really is recommended for genuine roomscale.

The official Oculus experimental guide for 2 camera 360 degree tracking is here: https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/t39.2365-6/15397552_232732683816172_4121045365602385920_n.pdf

The recommended Oculus play area for diagonally opposed 360 tracking use is only 1.5M x 1.5M, with the cameras 2M apart.

To put that into some comparative context HTC recommends 2M x 1.5M as the minimum for the Vive 2 base station room-scale setup, with 3.55M x 3.55M being the recommended. People such as myself have tested Lighthouse out to nearly 10M, though that is pushing the envelope given how Lighthouse operates, see here for details: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75ZytcYANTA

The standard Rift HMD cable length is also a limiting factor for large roomscale use. By comparison my Vive tracked volume is 8Mx4M and the included HMD cable lets you take advantage of that space with a computer located halfway down the long side.

Some are reporting that hardware/cable issues can affect Touch tracking: https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/5hbxxg/anyone_having_controller_warpingtracking_loss/db06gvm/

It took me a lot of fiddling to work out which USB ports gave the best results with my Rift, and still be able to use all the peripherals that go with my 3DOf compact motion simulator. I have yet to resolve all my Rift USB issues, with some visual jumps and persistent disconnects after a random period of time. A new Inateck card, as recommended by Oculus, is on its way (note some are still reporting issues, even with the recommended card): https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

Here is a list of additional hardware and cables that may been needed for full Oculus roomscale:

For Sensors:

1x Additional Sensor: https://www3.oculus.com/en-us/rift/
2x Monoprice 15-Feet USB 2.0 Extension: http://a.co/1uRWG3A
2x Security Wall Mount- Adjustable Indoor/Outdoor Mount: http://a.co/5ZQxIal
Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card: http://a.co/gFqRg0x

For HMD:

Cable Matters High Speed HDMI 10-Feet Extension Cable: http://a.co/9mBQCrU
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 10-Feet Extension Cable: http://a.co/6Q1kIKd

Touch does a pretty good job at simulating hands in VR. The Vive wands are great as things like guns and swords, both have their place. The Vive has a number of upgrades and peripherals due for release in Q2, including an ergonomic deluxe audio headstrap, trackers to bring any peripheral or real world object into VR, wireless HMD kit and finger tracked gloves.

I do a lot of public demos and to be honest the rift is far more problematic with cable management, USB related issues and setup time/issues, in comparison I can set up the Vive at schools and NGO offices in 15 minutes or less, including booting the computer and running the calibration setup.

In terms of other factors the world scale of the Rift is slightly larger in things like Longbow, which actually makes hitting things easier.

The Rift has less screen door effect but the god rays are significantly worse.

The Vive sweet spot is not as large or sharp.

The stereo overlap in the Rift is more noticeable.

The Rift has quality built in headphones and microphone, while the Vive has a built in camera but a poorer microphone.

The Vive has cutouts in the foam and accommodates glasses better.

Cost comparisons need to take in applicable shipping and taxes, the possible need for additional tracking cameras, compatible usb hardware, usb and hdmi cable extensions, upgraded headstraps, peripherals and trackers.

Oculus has ATS and ASW, SteamVR has ATW-reprojection but also allows Oculus ATS/ASW via the Oculus SDK: https://steamcommunity.com/app/250820/discussions/0/305510202679681031/

I have had the odd crash on Steam, but it is pretty rare, I have had far more significant issues with things like processing a refund via Oculus Help, which then bricked Medium and that took a week to sort out. So I think it fair to say both store fronts have their features, limitations and problems.

Other extraneous factors to take into account include business practices, your room space and game play preferences, the shape of your head or any eyesight issues.

Personally I have found there is less difference between the HMDs than there is between individual users, based on having done thousands of public demos. So try them both and pick whichever is the best for you.

Wow. Reddit actually comes through for me! I had this issue. I thought I got a bad unit but checked on my Intel based laptop. Issue was gone. Switched back to my Ryzen based machine and <stutter, stutter>. So I took the advice and purchased this unit from Amazon and it worked! It worked like a charm. Thanks for all the folks that provided the advice. Putting the link to this item in the comment. It's great and cheap and bonus: I have more ports (not that I needed them on the ASUS Crosshair Hero VIII. Thanks again to all .

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LS4JH7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $196.44 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Gigabyte - GA-AX370-Gaming ATX AM4 Motherboard | $111.87 @ OutletPC
Memory | Team - Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $122.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 275GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $92.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB GAMING Video Card | $184.99 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $79.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.90 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | LG - WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $49.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $949.16
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $919.16
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-26 14:53 EDT-0400 |

Here is a slightly different build to consider. One main factor is that while you have 3 HDDs and an optical drive now, you may need to add more storage in the future. Given this, I have chosen both a case that can hold all that storage, as well as a motherboard that has enough SATA ports on it to make sure you can connect them all.

In doing this, the motherboard is definitely more expensive. The alternative would be spending less now, but being required to purchase a SATA expansion card later. If you are fine with adding in an expansion card later, or don't think you will need many more HDDs there are plenty of MOBOs available in the $60-70 range than have 6 SATA ports which would allow for 5 total HDDs w/ an optical drive.

Given the potential limit of available SATA ports, I have also chosen an m.2 SSD. As far as the optical drive goes, you mentioned needing one but didn't know if just for DVD but I picked a Bluray burner drive just in case. This can obviously be changed if needed.

The PSU selection also has 10 SATA power connectors, something you have to watch out for with PSU models is only having 6x SATA connectors and needing to use Molex adapters. The unit is also fully modular and has a 10 year warranty.

Its also possible to save money on GPU and drop down to a GTX 1050 Ti depending on what software you use and how you use it. In some scenarios software like Adobe Premiere will take advantage of a GPU, but the actual GPU isn't as important. But, in other situations the more powerful GPU actually yields faster render times. Linus has a video and Puget has a fairly detailed write up. But, that is just for Adobe Premiere, it could very well be different for different software.

In general, I would recommend doing some research on performance for whatever software you use, or are planning on using. All in all, you are going to want a well balanced system, but sometimes it makes sense to spend more or less on certain aspects if you know specific use-case scenarios will benefit from it or not.

> Some of the studies are looking at reaching trajectories

As in, the trajectory of a hand reaching for something? Is this at normal, everyday speed, or are you looking for something like a boxer to give it their best shot & swing as fast as they can? Because that's one niche use case where Lighthouse outperforms Constellation - super fast movement tracking.

Given the camera nature of the Rift's Constellation tracking system (720p 60 Hz global shutter cameras with IR filters), super fast movements can cause tracking errors as the movement becomes too fast for the sampling rate to keep up. In this, Lighthouse has a better capacity for these fast movements as the total sampling rate of the sweeping lasers exceeds the sampling rate of Constellation's cameras, and in Lighthouse the controllers & the headsets are the receivers; they aren't outputting signals mid-movement like Constellation (where there are IR LEDs scattered across the tracked objects) so there's no equivalent to the IR LEDs output getting smeared across a single sample frame of the camera.

That said, we're talking fast here, this guy isn't having any issues landing his hits accurately, nor is this guy. However there was a thing about a climbing game a long time ago where the dev ran into issues with Rift because the whole game was about holding your hands up high & bringing them down with as much force as you could muster, which could send people off in the wrong direction as the Constellation tracking had a hiccup from the super fast motion.

On the other hand, speaking purely technically, hard-measurably, but not humanly observable, movements in anything but these super-speeds will likely be more accurate on Rift, compared to both Lighthouse 1.0 & 2.0, given the purely stationary nature of the external side of the tracking system. In a lab setting, you can tailor the camera setup to the needs of the test as well. If you were measuring smaller ranges of movement & had the 2 sensors that come in the box placed a meter apart & a meter from the test subject, the accuracy & low jitter..y..ness? would likely far exceed anything you could achieve with Lighthouse. Add a third sensor to that and have them in a triangle some ~1,5m away from the test subject, you'd probably be hard pressed to measure any statistically significant deviations in tracking at all. Add a fourth sensor, buy a high-performance USB expansion card, set them up surrounding the test subject in decently close proximity, and you honestly might not even need that Optotrak. Set a 4 sensor config up with them in a half circle in front of the test subject, and, well.. That'd be an interesting benchmark of the tracking system, and I suspect you'd be pleasantly surprised.

A while back someone wrote a piece of software to measure tracking deviations/jitter. They made it for Vive users as jitter was a bit of an issue for them back then, but they posted it on r/oculus to get comparative data. Figured you might find the numbers interesting, even if there are a ton of variables unaccounted for between all different user setups: https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/4nezq5/looking_for_someone_to_run_the_vive_jitter_test

Ohh, jeez, you can buy the Bitmain Antminer here.

The smaller ones in between the Antminers are these, but for $10 more, you can get like 5 times the Mh/s with the Antminers. The Antminers are a lot more worth it; I just wanted something to fill in my empty spaces.

The cooling fan is this, but I've got a bigger clamp fan blowing on it so the whole rig doesn't burn my house down. Though, I haven't had much problem with heat. The cooling fan does enough to keep them cool, but when I had no cooling fan, it was hot enough to burn my skin and I found that out the hard way. The clamp fan is just there for insurance.

The Pi is gonna need a 4GB SD card, so make sure you've got a reader for that.

And you're correct. This is the least profitable thing you can do, my setup cost me roughly $150 a month and a half ago, and they've made me $2 worth of Bitcoins (.004 Bitcoin) that haven't even been transferred to me because Slush's pool send threshold is .01 Bitcoin. Though, the whole setup barely puts any strain on my electric bill.

It was fun putting it together and making it work, and it's a great conversation starter, but it has yet to prove me any monetary worth at all. Maybe I can buy something cheap on Overstock in a couple months, or I'll get really really lucky and mine a block.

That would be because your motherboard does not support USB 3, or at least only supports it on the I/O panel.

You could use something like this to adapt it to the usb 2.0 9-pin header, if you have one extra (Obviously, the case's ports will only work at usb 2 speeds):
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Female-Motherboard-Adapter-Converter/dp/B009SJCPO8

Or you could get a USB 3.0 PCIe expansion card with an internal header (provided you have a spare PCIe 2.0 or 3.0 slot of any size) like this, and have the advantage of having fully functional USB 3.0 speeds:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE

Note: I have not used either of these products, but they are well rated on amazon, with a good number of reviews, and both are "Fulfilled by Amazon" for easy returns if needed. I am familiar with Anker, from good experiences with many of their other products, so there is that, if you go for an expansion card.

Edit: Do note that the cheaper (by far) 1x PCIe cards will only provide one port's worth of full bandwidth (using all the ports at once will share the bandwidth), though it is rare for most people to use more than that, as it would take an external ssd to saturate, or multiple external disk drives.

Yeah, but with one minor correction: I am not using a breakout in the PC. MB SATA -> 8088 Adapter -> 8088-to-8087 Adapter -> SATA breakout (the listing doesn't actually specify that it's Forward, but the description would make think so) -> HDDs

Yes, all layer one. Every adapter is totally passive.

Expensive? Yeah, probably if I had used two of the dual adapters (which, honestly, now that I'm typing this out I feel like a dingus for not having done that - I'm not sure what I was thinking). This was a cheaper alternative to purchasing a 4-bay Mediasonic and would potentially support up to six drives (assuming I get it working). I could have just run a bunch of long SATA cables between chassis, but that would be really messy, cable-wise, and there's no way I'd be able to move both enclosures at the same time. Unless there's some kind of SATA aggregate option, seemed like my best way to go (which, if that's a thing, I'd be interested in that route too, but some quick-ish googling didn't turn much up).

I was reading about some of those changes in the BIOS, IDE vs AHCI - is that what you're referring to? That certainly could be it, since I did see one drive initially. I'll look into that (and MB support...) tonight while I wait on the PSU replacement.

No intention of using the port multipliers. If I need more than four, I'll probably focus on just running another SATA->SAS adapter and use the second port on the 8088->8087 bracket.

OP and all affected by this: I also ran into this after the latest update. It clearly introduced some bugs. That said, here is everything I did, and I'm finally playing Beat Saber on my Rift with 0 (read again, 0) lag. (That said, there is certainly still a bug where if a box is hit the wrong direction, or with the wrong saber color, sometimes the controller does not vibrate)

I am listing below WHAT WORKED, and leaving out all the things I tried that didn't work..it's an exhausting list..cables, reseating the rift headset jack under the face mask..etc. This did not help me. Rift worked great in every other game.

• Purchased an external USB 3 card to give the Rift headset (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I ordered the one with the two internal USB ports too. Note: USB add-in card is not needed if your system already has enough USB channels to give the Rift and each sensor its own channel. Google USB channels for instructions on finding this out. ((If you have your controllers vibrating very lightly and you are using good batteries, THIS. This is why. You need a USB channel with nothing else on it for the Rift Headset. The Rift Sensors should each be on their own channels for best performance too, but can share the USB channel with other devices too.))
  
• Turned off Night Light in Windows 10 Display settings. My problems manifested more at night and this, once known, was a very likely culprit
  
• Placed each Rift Sensor on its own USB channel. I also unplug the mouse/keyboard and other peripherals during VR, because I have a Steelseries LED mouse/kb and they bugger up the USB channel with all the lighting.
  
• Close out any unnecessary apps from the system tray.
  
• If you use a USB extension to get a Rift sensor further away, make sure it's an ACTIVE USB extender. Passive, or normal, ones degraded my signal. This, and the Win10 Night Light are the biggest reasons I was getting Beat Saber lag. I have an Active cable on order and went back to no extension/both sensors in front of me for the time being.
  
• Installed Oculus Tray Tool (https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/5okoju/oculus_tray_tool/) and set USB Standby to Disabled, among some other settings I can't recall. All the settings have to do with fine-tuning the VR experience, so poke around and see what works for you.
  
• ***Disclaimer***: Editing the registry is NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART*** I changed the priority of the GPU for games using this guide. I've had no problems at all, but the registry is risky to mess with and I am unsure what effect this had with Beat Saber. I'm listing it only because Beat Saber runs perfectly now.Skip to the "Make some changes in your registry" section: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-ensure-best-vr-performance-your-pc
  
  Doing all of this, the noteworthy ones being Windows 10 Night Light being turned off, the USB add-in card/dedicated channel for the Rift headset USB, and the Oculus Tray Tool, my Beat Saber now runs flawlessly!! I moved up from Hard to Expert (and even Expert with Fast Song turned on) overnight purely as a result of this game running like it should now. I can actually hit what I see, and the game registers it.
  
  ​
  
  Computer Setup:
  
  
• Oculus Rift with 2 sensors (3rd sensor with USB active repeater/extension cable in the mail)
  
• MSI MoBo with AMD RYZEN 7 1700X 8-Core 3.4 GHz
  
• 16gb DDR3 RAM
  
• MSI Gaming Z 2070 RTX GPU
  
• Samsung 1tb SSD running only Oculus Games
  
• SanDisk 128gb SSD for Windows 10 installation
  
• Liquid cooler for CPU
  
• 850w Power Supply
  
  My specs are overkill for VR and Rift (see: Robo Recall) worked fine with my MSI Nvidia 970 GPU too, but Beat Saber still lagged (after the latest update) until I made all the changes above. Beat Saber clearly has some bugs/compatibility problems to work out, and it seems the devs have more important things to do than fix these given how long it is between updates being released for PC. We're a forgotten lot. :( Perhaps the modding community will find a way to patch the game to actually fix these bugs.
  
  ​
  
  I do hope that my tips help even one person out there also experiencing this issue. This game is what VR was for! If anybody has more tips please please please share them! Everybody should be able to enjoy this game as it was supposed to be!
  
  ​
  
  edit: Corrected CPU specs in my Computer Setup

It's this. It was recommended on this page. I wanted to be absolutely certain I got flawless tracking, so opted for a dedicated USB 3.0 controller for each port, so there wasn't any chance of running into a bandwidth limitation. Also wanted all three of the sensors to be running at USB 3.0, whereas they recommend plugging one of the three into USB 2.0 otherwise (again, due to bandwidth limitations under one controller).

I don't doubt you could have a flawless experience without it, but I wanted to make damn well certain that it would be plug-and-play goodness from the start, given my history of building up expectations and ultimately being disappointed.

EDIT: Forgot to answer your last question. It was actually just the "First Contact" demo thing that you start out with the learn the controls. This the realism and accuracy of the controls, and interacting with the environment in such a natural manner was just amazing. I went and played through it again this evening. The other games I've tried (SuperHot and RoboRecall are really, really good as well, it's just that was the first one, and the environmental interaction is really cool).

Yeah definitely no bottlenecks to worry about! On the USB ports, I'm pretty confident in saying that if the Oculus utility isn't throwing errors at you then you're good there. It is pretty sensitive to incompatibilities.

At work but I think I remember my settings for comparison. Pretty sure I use hmd graphics settings on medium and supersampling at like 1.3 with antialiasing off. It runs buttery smooth with the rare graphical hitch here and there. Another trick worth looking into with the rift is that if you tweak the HUD colors to a primarily green scheme, you will get a slightly better effective resolution on the text due to the Samsung pentile displays used. It's not a lot, bit it's noticeable and worth the downsides of changing HUD colors.

Ref: R7 1800X; 16GB@3200; EVGA 1080ti SC2 at stock clocks.

Edit: also relavent, I do have all my rift USB plugs going through one of these.

Really nice find! I'm assuming your computer is already bluetooth compatible?

If not, at least for me and others on the PSMoveService Google group, (Great place to ask questions and get help with troubleshooting) you have to have a bluetooth adapter to get the PSMove controllers to pair to your computer.

(I suggest this bluetooth adapter which is used by myself and others for the PSMove controllers)

(Don't forget that first time setup requires a micro USB cable for first time paring)

If so, just be aware that the Playstation Eye takes up a lot of USB bandwidth and you have to plan out where you plug in your devices very carefully for them to all track at the full 60fps.

I'd suggest downloading something like USBTreeView before starting as this will allow you to check your USB root hubs when plugging in your cameras and possibly bluetooth adapter.

Some things to keep in mind when setting this up are:

Try to isolate your cameras away from other high bandwidth devices on the same USB root hub, considering we're using an HMD with an IR camera that also takes up a lot of bandwidth so remember that too.

(This is what my USBTreeView looks like, make sure that your cameras are on USBs with the little H next to them meaning their high-speed.

("USB Composite Device - Camera" is the IR camera)

("ASUS USB-BT400" Is the bluetooth adapter)

"USB Composite Device - Audio, Camera" Is the Playstation Eye)

Most of the time the most cameras you'll be able to get away with are 2 cameras on one motherboard and the front panel USB connections included, unless you buy a PCI/PCI-E USB expansion card for more USBs and root hubs.

(PSMoveService reccomends the Inateck PCI-E to USB 3.0 5-Port

Most likely the controllers you bought were part of the older batches which were manufactured around 5-6 years ago when they first came out, so be sure to check the batteries and you can buy replacements here. (Although you have to open the controller up to access them)

Some of the newer controllers which were released with PSVR have their magnetometers disabled which are used for orientation in PSMoveService so be weary of that if their from the latest batch.

In conclusion, just follow videos like these (This and this) (You can just follow the PSMoveService portion of it) and for troubleshooting either resort to the comments of those videos, the offical Github documentation, post back here and I can try to help, or post in the Google group for help.

Aside from everything else good luck on setting it up and please excuse any grammatical errors you see in this post, it's over 3160 letters long.

Your motherboard seems to have a wide variety of options as far as USB-ports go. See if you can spread your sensors and headset so that you don't have two sensors/headset on one channel. I advise you to put your headset in the USB 2.0 port. Your channels are as follows (based on your motherboard's website, which I found here):

• Intel® X99 chipset :
  4 x USB 3.1 Gen 1 port(s) (4 at mid-board)
  
• Intel® X99 chipset :
  6 x USB 2.0 port(s) (2 at back panel, black, 4 at mid-board)
  
• ASMedia® USB 3.1 controller :
  2 x USB 3.1 Gen 2 port(s) (2 at back panel, black, USB Type-CTM)
  
• ASMedia® USB 3.1 controller :
  2 x USB 3.1 Gen 2 port(s) (2 at back panel, red, Type-A)
  
• ASMedia® USB 3.0 controller :
  4 x USB 3.1 Gen 1 port(s) (4 at back panel, blue)
  
  Be aware that PCIe cards you've installed (if any) also affect these ports, disabling or sharing power. Follow my link to the website and look at the bottom for the explanation on which. If you haven't installed anything (besides the graphics card in the first slot), you don't need to worry about it.
  
  As for your express cards, you have:
  
  
• 4 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16 (x16, x16/x16, x16/x8/x8, x16/x8/x8/x8 or x8/x8/x8/x8 mode with 40-LANE CPU; x16, x8/x8 or x8/x8/x8 mode with 28-LANE CPU)
  
• 1 x PCIe 2.0 x4
  
• 1 x PCIe 2.0 x1
  
  Unless you've gone for a really expensive CPU, my assumption is that you have a 28-Lane CPU, not that it matters here. You have a x4 slot available (unless you've installed something yourself in that slot) for the best USB expansion card, and if you do buy one, my recommendation is this one. Install the windows 10 drivers (plug and play, basically), because the website's is not up to date. Works brilliantly, and each USB-port has its own full-powered channel. Put all Rift USBs in the card and never think about power-issues again. ;)
  
  If my explanation was a bit on the heavy side, don't worry. It's easier than it sounds. Briefly put, try splitting USB-devices so that they don't share power with others where possible (the list above has an explanation for where these ports are). If that's not good enough, buy a USB expansion card and put it in the x4 slot (shown in your manual as PCIEX4_1 on page 1-7. I looked).
  
  Disabling power-saving in Device Manager, like I mentioned in my earlier comment, might help with your current dis/connect-sound issues, as does driver-updates. I experienced the same.
  
  I wish you the best of luck and feel free to ask again if you have questions or need clarifications. There are people quite a bit more skilled than I here, though, who might be able to advise you further.
  

Wow, I've never had something like that happen.

All of my sensors are on extension cables. Two are USB 3, and one is USB 2. All are plugged into the recommended Inatek USB controller card (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B6ZCNGM).

The USB 2 sensor gave me some detected/not detected issues, since the extension cable is pretty long. That cleared up when I plugged it into a powered hub, purely acting as a power booster, like I mention doing for the headset today in the original post. The sensor is just using a much cheaper USB 2 hub, though.

If you're using extensions, and you were careful to buy ones that people have had success with in the past, then I'd highly suspect a power delivery issue.

Good luck, and I'm glad to have given you some ideas. I hope they pan out! Let me know if I can answer any questions.

Wow, thanks! This is exactly the type of response I was looking for.

If I was to go with those options it looks like I would save a LOT of money. Any recommendation on what PCIe SATA card to get if I'm looking to add say 4 ports?.

That's just $130 for the case, mobo and CPU. Do you have a RAM (16GB) recommendation? I assume if my mobo/cpu choice was overkill that the ECC RAM was too. Still if the RAM is $80 still that's $210...then a PSU (again a recommendation?) which is probably $50, the PCIe card is $40... a grand total of like $300 for a DIY NAS. Pretty awesome.

From the looks of this thread things are figured out, but I thought i'd throw in my 2¢

You definitely need a PCI card. I have Oculus' recommended Inateck one - others have had success with this card which provides a controller for each port - useful if you want more than 2 sensors someday.

I run 2 sensors on the Inateck, and headset on Mobo.

USB bandwidth is a big deal for Oculus, so I don't recommend running more than the two sensors off the Inateck card.

A powered hub will not end up helping you here, as you'll be bottlenecking all of the information to a single port.

Something else that can be helpful - the vive breakout box is fully compatible with the rift. You need to buy your own power supply, male-male USB3.0 and HDMI cables - but it will make sure the headset gets consistent power from an external source. It's also nice so you don't rip your PC down/headset off tripping over a cable.

I wrote this for another thread on the same subject a while back. The main bottleneck/expense is moving from single processor to dual processor. If I had it to do over (and hadn't come across a 2009 model at a bargain price) I'd get the 2010 chassis. The 2009 model uses a very odd lidless processor design which is unique to that year and complicates upgrading. The 2010's also have faster RAM which means you won't have to buy new RAM to upgrade the processor.

Upgrades:-

• Highpoint Technologies Rocket 640L for SATA 6Gb/ps combined with any SATA SSD.
  
  
• For true speed OWC offer a range of M2 SSD PCIE cards, although these are expensive they will give you current generation SSD speeds. There are plenty of cheap M2 SATA PCIE cards available and the drives themselves are reasonably priced, but many unfortunately can't be used as boot drives in the Mac (NVME issues). MacProSSDOptions offers a list of ones that work.
  
  
• Any recent nVidia card will work with nVidia's web drivers (bloody hard to find, search the Hackintosh sites for current links and ALWAYS upgrade the drivers before you upgrade the OS). I have GTX 970 which drives three monitors happily and offers HDMI out. What you won't get with the non-mac nVidia cards is the grey boot screen, you need a Mac card for that hence the advice I offer about the EFI cards later on. I've run twin 9800 GTX's, an 8800 GT and a GTX 970 in my 2009 model without issues - you just need to make sure the card you buy has 6 pin power connectors on the card itself and you'll need a set of 6 pin PCiE power connectors for the Mac Pro Backplane.
  
  
• If you can find a 2010 processor board and processor for reasonable money a hacked firmware upgrade for the 4,1 to the 5,1 is available, and it's a really simple upgrade to perform. This also allows you to use faster 1333 MHz RAM - if you already have RAM for the 2009 model it will work in the 2010 board (it's not expensive c. £100 for 32Gb), but you will need to replace it to take advantage of the faster RAM support. /u/firefly416 claims a 2010 board in a 2009 machine will cause problems with the fans - but I've done this and experienced none of these issues.
  
  
• Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card for rear facing USB 3.0.
  
  
• An Apple BCM94360CD card and adapter will provide Bluetooth 4 LE, and 802.11 ac connectivity (which provide continuity and handoff).
  
  Advice:-
  
  
• Always keep a Mac EFI graphics card in the machine or handy, I have one of the old GT120's, inevitably when the OS upgrades you'll forget to upgrade the Nvidia web drivers first and that renders the mac useless without an EFI card available.
  
  
• There is plenty of space in the CD drive enclosure for SSDs and other upgrades - they're much more knowledgeable about third party parts and driver issues than the Mac crowd who generally don't deal with these things too much. I've frequently found information there on PCiE SSDs, video drivers, even sound drivers, that I couldn't get help for elsewhere.
  
  
• The dual core 2009 series is the best one of the 2009 models to own, the processors can be upgraded to the point where it comes near the 2013 Mac Pro Geekbench score. If you don't have a dual processor board from the get go then the upgrade to one is very expensive indeed and the parts are hard to find.
  
  
• The 2.66 Ghz 4,1 uses lidless processors (as do all of the other 2009 models) which are impossible to find upgrades for. You will have to convert the board or do the riskiest upgrade of your life in order to use the better processors. Information on the board conversion is hard to find (I'm looking if anyone out there has it!).
  
  
• Lots of helpful information is available at TonyMacx86 and other Hackintosh forums. In my experience they are more knowledgeable about third party hardware and driver issues than the Mac crowd and much more willing to help.
  
  
• If you can find a 5,1 (2010 tower) at a price you can afford go for that one as it has standard heat shielded processors rather than the lidless version in the 2.66Ghz 4,1 - always check the serial number before you buy as many 5,1 machines are really 4,1's with the hacked firmware.
  

As /u/just_insane has mentioned, plex is a good option for streaming. I'm an opponent of freenas, in favor of using something homebrew (zfsonlinux with debian or ubuntu, in my case, gentoo with zfs) to do what you need. I don't like how finicky freenas can be even with server-grade hardware. It's just not my thing.

That said, for someone who's new, it may be a good idea to try out freenas or nas4free. I just finished building a 16TB usable (20.5TB raw) system last week. I'll link my items below.

2x iocrest controllers

1x16GB kingston ECC ram

1xNZXT source 210

5xHGST 4TB deskstar NAS

1xsupermicro mbd-x9scm-f-o - Great board. Loving it so far. dual onboard nic is nice.

2x850 Pro 256GB that I had laying around

1x 550W PSU laying around.

total ran me about $1300 and I'm able to max out a 2x1GB LACP setup writing and reading directly on rust.

EDIT: my recommendation, in most cases, is to at least do raidz1 (RAID5). RAID is no substitute for backups though, so invest in something offsite and make sure it's staying backed up. I use CrashPlan for offsite and local backups and it works like a charm.

ahahahahaha !!

Joking aside though. Certainly when talking about Rift, its not necessarily the number of ports that is the most important consideration but the number of USB controllers. Doesn't matter of you have 6x USB 3.0 ports and 6x USB 2.0 ports if your motherboard has only 1x USB 3.0 controller and 1x USB 2.0 Controller.

My Thrustmaster 16000 FCS HOTAS takes 2x USB 2.0

My Logitech G920 Wheel and Pedals take 1x USB 2.0

My 4x Rift Sensors take 4x USB 3.0

My Corsair Void Wireless Headset takes 1x USB 2.0

My XBOX controller takes 1x USB 2.0

My Blue Snowball Mic takes 1x USB 2.0

My Keyboard and Mouse take 2x USB 2.0

My Flirc IR sensor for Harmony Ultimate One Remote takes 1x USB 2.0

Thats 13 !!

My Asus Z170-A mobo has 2x USB 2.0 ports, 2x USB 3.0 ports and 1x USB 3.1 port but only 1x USB 2.0 Controller, 1x USB 3.0 controller and 1x USB 3.1 controller.

Hence why I am also rocking a dedicated Startech 4x Controller 4x USB 3.0 Port PCIe card just for my 4x Rift Sensors and a random 3x USB 2.0 PCIe card dedicated to my HOTAS and Wheel/Pedal Set. Rift is on my Motherboards USB 3.1 port and the rest of the peripherals on the other motherboard ports.

I also have a front 3.25"/5.25" Bay box with Card Readers, USB 2.0, USB 3.0, HDMI and USB charging ports that are connected to the internal USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 Motherboard Headers. This was great for connecting the HOTAS and Wheel/Pedal set and the Rift to the PC at the front of the PC instead of blindly swapping them in and out around the back but has largely been rendered defunct now that I permanently ran some extension cables for the Rift and HOTAS/Wheel/Pedals from the back ports of the PC to elsewhere in the room. Still us the card readers and the USB charging ports for my eCig and Corsair Void Wireless Headset though.

imgur Album of PC Peripherals and Room

Inateck (or anything else with a FrescoLogic 1100 chipset, but the Inateck is the most readily available) is the Oculus recommended PCIe card for adding USB 3 ports. You can buy them on amazon. They have a few different variants. Inateck also sell some cards using the NEC D720201 chipset. Don't get those. Any of their cards with model numbers beginning with KTU3FR are good. If you want the one with the most usb ports, you want the KTU3FR-502I or KTU3FR-502U. The 5O2I is 5 usb ports on the back with a usb header like on your motherboard to connect 2 more to a case. The 502U has 5 usb ports on the back and 2 usb ports on the inside which I guess you could route the cables out of your case if it has cable holes.

I know people have mentioned what extension cables they have used successfully on this reddit, but it doesn't look like it has been documented on this reddit's wiki. I think it has been mentioned it is pretty hit or miss even when you buy ones other people have used successfully.

I’m not the best guy for a definitive answer on hardware, but to the best of my understanding the 6g/s SAS cards are guaranteeing you 6g/s capable speeds per 4x SAS port which then has to be shared by however many of the 4x drives per SAS port are in use at any given time.

Now how many drives in use via however many separate SAS ports at the same time will cause a bottleneck via the PCIe 2.0 controller operating at 8x speeds... I’m a little fuzzy on...

I was just in your shoes a week and a half ago and spent days looking at the field of cards. This one was really an outlier as to what it can do for cost. It’s also supply and demand involved here. If you noticed, this is an external SAS card and the number of people looking for them is much lower than those looking for internal connections. This same card with an internal port will run you over $200!

But all you have to do is run the cords back inside the case using the pci slot above/below wherever you have the card installed. Or you can use this if you’d like, but I prefer a straight single connection, less chance of problems.

CableDeconn Dual Mini SAS SFF-8088 To SAS36P SFF-8087 Adapter In PCI bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PRXOQFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Nf9PAb5TWXPZQ

But back to speed, can’t tell you how far you’d have to push the card to hit a bottleneck, but I’ve got 24x sata drives in mine (16x on this card) in a Windows 10 box, and the drives 5400rpm drives are still operating at the same speeds they always have with a direct MB connection.

Good luck with your build! Let me know if you have any other questions!

It's not pretty. I am actually pretty ashamed of how they're in there being a server admin for work. - and honestly the drive layout was part of the reasoning why I'm moving to a real server. I got the 9020 for free - and started using it with FreeNAS a test to play with FreeNAS. It was lovely, and I just continued to use it without thinking of upgrading the host.

The 9020 has two bays for internal disks. Two are there.

The 9020 also has room for two optical disks- so in these two bays, I can fit two 3.5 inch drives each. I've separated them a bit with cardboard to reduce any vibration one disk may cause the one next to it. Four drives are there.

Lastly, there's some weird clip thing underneath the optical disk trays that I have no clue what its purpose is. Oddly enough, it's roughly 3.5" so I was able to park the last disk there.

I had run out of SATA ports on the motherboard, so I had to install this bad boy to get those drives connected. It actually works beautifully for my need. Also unfortunately needed one of these to get the final drive some power.

The server is still running great, it's definitely 'hacked' to work, and I don't want to continue to keep my important files here on a risky system.

I''ll shut down my server to take a picture for you of the internals if you're interested!

Edit: Refer to velogeek's comment below, this motherboard has 14 SATA natively.


I don't have a motherboard recommendation, but it's pretty easy to add more.

Cheap and dirty way: 4 port SATA PCI-E card

IMO the better way: Supermicro SAS 1, 2 port card
Flash to IT mode (very easy process with LSI MegaRaid software on windows) and use these or similar cables to breakout into 4 SATA per SAS port, in this case giving you 8 ports total.
____
The LSI card listed above is a SAS 1 card, while old will still give better performance than the SATA card. If you want even more performance (for SSD's and fast HDD's) check out SAS 2 cards. A little bit more money, but same concept. This guide should help you.

I had to go above budget to meet the system requirements on the vive/oculus. I'd honestly save up a bit more for a better video card though. But this'll do. You're looking at high-ultra settings at 1080p 60fps for normal gaming. While gaming in the vive, 90fps is almost a requirement. This might be able to get close. Although if you can increase your budget a 390x / GTX 980 is a better option. The Fury X / 980 Ti are the best options.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | £149.99 @ Novatech
Motherboard | MSI H97M-E35 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | £62.73 @ Amazon UK
Memory | Patriot Signature 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | £27.99 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £40.90 @ Amazon UK
Video Card | MSI Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card | £269.98 @ Dabs
Case | BitFenix Nova ATX Mid Tower Case | £26.99 @ Novatech
Power Supply | EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | £51.99 @ Amazon UK
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) | £59.99 @ Amazon UK
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £690.56
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-20 21:20 GMT+0000 |

Edit - there's a chance you'll need more USB ports than the computer has. You can get something like this to suit your needs.

That's...a lot of cameras. Processing power isn't going to be your main concern - serial bandwidth will be. Namely, USB connections typically only have maybe 3-4 separate buses on your average motherboard. Assuming you plan to run 1080p60 cams (or probably even 720p60/1080p30), you generally can't run more than one camera capture per bus without experiencing lag and dropped frames from the capture.

If you're going to have any quantity of cameras streaming simultaneously, your best bet would be quad capture cards. But you'd still likely need 2 to make this work well and they start at around $700-800 a piece.

You could probably get away with USB connections, but you're still looking at nearly $1000 just for the hardware to accomplish that. You'd need additional USB PCIe cards both due to the limits on quantity of USB ports on most motherboards and due to the fact the capture devices like the Elgato Cam Link are wide and will overlap any adjacent banks of ports, blocking you from inserting two next each other.

I have no experience with this quantity of cameras but I think something like this USB PCIe card has sufficient bandwidth to support four cameras. You would need 2 of them still and also short USB extensions cables because 4 Cam Links can't all fit simultaneously. So you need to be sure your motherboard has 2 additional slots available that can support these.

As for processing power on the computer, this doesn't really sound like a gaming rig so GPU doesn't matter a whole lot apart from rendering stuff on your own screen. For CPU, I don't think you need to go super high end either as a video capture isn't super intensive when you're using something like a Cam Link. If you go the quad capture card route, you likely need to consider power a bit more but it's still not crazy. Any quad core with eight threads or a hex core is likely more than sufficient.

If you also plan to do the stream encoding on this rig, that changes the recommendations considerably.

Yes, FreeNAS-11.2-U5, was also working on U4.

I literally just plugged it in and plugged a drive in to it and it worked. I also have switched drives between the controller and the motherboard and that works too without breaking my pools. Support for the Marvell 9215 chipset was apparently added in FreeBSD 9.2... Not sure why you would be having trouble, does the card work in a different PC?

Oh fuck my bad, I Just double checked and THIS is the one I got... Slightly different but super close image wise. The one I got has the Marvel 9215, the one OP linked has Marvel 9235.. But based on a quick google it looks like the 9235 was added to be supported in FreeBSD 9 as well...

Rift S is a nice pickup and the natural progression looking to move up from PSVR. Your PC specs are great for VR, and it will be a massive improvement from PSVR in all areas.


You may want to consider a RiftS-dedicated pci-e usb3 card for your PC to ensure optimal bandwidth and power is delivered to the Rift S such as below; this will improve performance and reliability. Most motherboard chipsets are not up to the task in this regard, so it's a great $20 investment many overlook. The one linked is known to be one of the best performers for Rift S. Note if you do get this don't install the inateck drivers, just use the Microsoft ones that auto load after installation: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OVPxDbTW1ZJ2E

I have 4 sensors, each mounted on top of 7'6" DIY stands made out of cheap 5'9" Ikea floor lamps..2 lamps per stand, each in it's own corner. The 8' long stock cables of the sensors only have a few inches worth left over when mounted on the stands, so extensions are a must no matter where you position them. I use the 'Monoprice 15-Feet USB 3.0 Extension Cables' from Amazon, with the sensor in the far corner needing 2 cables to reach the stand. This gives me a 10'x10' area, with an actual playspace of 7'x7'. I also shelled out for a Startech 4 port USB3.0 PCI card recommended on the Oculus blog. The sensors on USB3.0 use a lot of power, so you'll need to connect either a SATA power adapter or a molex power adapter to the PCI card...if you go that route. I haven't had any issues whatsoever, completely glitch free. I used the Sensor Bounds app in Oculus to make sure the sensor beams covered my play area high enough, as well as covering the corners closest to the stands. The beams aren't 90 degrees, so the higher the top of the beam, the less the corner gets covered by the lower part of the beam. It takes a few minutes, but it helps to completely cover the entire play area.

​

Btw...the best part of my DIY stands...they only take up 10" squared. Tripods are at least 2' squared. I considered microphone stands, but they only extend 5' or so. Nowhere near tall enough.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-15-Feet-Female-Active-Extension/dp/B00AA0U08M

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60416176/

https://www.amazon.com/CM01-Camera-Digital-Recorder-Adapter/dp/B001GWCC4I

Yeah on top of (or on the top shelf of) that bookcase seems like the perfect place.

Having them at the exact same height doesn't really matter at all. The important thing is just to have them:

• As high as possible
  
• Pointing downwards (roughly 45 degrees)
  
• About 2 feet out from the actual play area (like in this diagram, but for you, mirrored)
  
  It comes with a 5 metre USB 2.0 extension in the box (which gives you a total cable length of 7.5 metres ie 25 feet), and if that works for you then go for it, but for the absolute best tracking I would recommend a USB 3.0 extension cable with a PCI-E USB 3.0 card (since it's unlikely that your motherboard could handle 3 USB 3.0 sensors).
  
  Once you get it, this guide might help: https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/wiki/touch_360_roomscale#wiki_3_sensors.3A_room_scale

Honestly, none of your reasons sound good enough for buying a new motherboard. Upgrading your PC parts one by one like you are currently doing is the best way to waste money in the long term and end up with a PC you were never really satisfied with. Just stick with your plan to build a full PC for college.

• I already address the SATA issue in another comment.
  
  > The computer's from early 2014, and it doesn't have a USB 3.0. Just checked.
  
  It doesn't have a USB 3.0 header on the motherboard? If not, then you can just buy one of these expansion cards:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE/
  
  > Just one on fan connector on this motherboard, but I can get a molex to fan like this, correct?
  
  I prefer a splitter like this to get more fan headers:
  
  https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162059&cm_re=fan_splitter-_-12-162-059-_-Product
  
  Molex powered fans tend to be very loud since they never slow down.
  
  > I've got 2x 8GB cards, so 16 total. I don't plan to upgrade now, and don't plan to upgrade any time soon.
  
  Then your reasoning for needing more RAM slots is pointless.
  
  Don't waste your money on new motherboards for old CPUs and extra licenses for Windows.

A good point. If I were buying a PCIe USB card I'd probably get the 4 port Startech.

https://www.amazon.de/STARTECH-COM-SuperSpeed-Express-Schnittstellenkarte-Kan%C3%A4len/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527086391&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=startec+usb

There are cheaper options but the difference isn't that much in the grand scheme of things and I'd rather have the best solution

Independent channels per port so no bandwidth sharing, and supplemental power.

My mobo has 3 independent USB controllers already so it's non issue for me fortunately

I fixed a majority of my issues by installing one of these into a PCIE x16 slot, and plugging all three of my sensors, as well as the rift itself, into it. It's a bit pricey, but it did the trick beautifully.

Still get the sensor jump when turning around. I haven't noticed any significant change to my guardian location or my height, but those still may decide to plague me.

Previously everything was plugged into my motherboard (all 3.0) and worked, more or less, perfectly until the patch. Don't know why it worked before when, honestly, I should have been taxing my USB controller, or why the patch broke it, but the above card has made things great.

Before worrying about all that, I would try a pci-e usb 3.0 expansion card if you're having issues with the USB3 built in hardware on your motherboard. IMHO the FX-8300 would be fine still as long as you're doing your encoding via a capture card, or via something like NVENC. I don't know that I would trust it with software encoding while gaming. Benchmark-wise, multi-core on the FX-8300 is pretty similar to an i5 4570, which is still pretty capable for the most part.

Something like this may work as long as you have an empty pci-e slot. https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/

Caveats: 1) No real hardware upgrade, which can be both a good and bad thing. 2) System still not technically supported by Elgato.

Other notes: The latest "high-end" AMD CPUs to use DDR3 were the FX series I believe, and I currently use an FX-8300 in my home fileserver, and an i5 4590 in my gaming PC. The latest generation of Intel that used DDR3 was the 5th gen (i3,i5,i7 5xxx), which are fairly rare in desktop form, the latest generation mainstream was the 4th gen, which is really very similar to the 8-core FX series performance-wise, with the i5/i7 of that generation having the slight (in the case of i5) to slightly greater (in the case of i7) edge over the FX 8-cores.

Realistically you're probably looking into new ram/cpu/motherboard if you chose to upgrade to get any reasonable performance boost, everything else would likely be compatible, as expansion cards like graphics cards, other things like power supplies and hard drives and dvd drives, haven't really changed in regards to how they connect to the motherboard.

I have a 4-port PCIe card with 4 dedicated 5Gbps channels specifically because I was previously using the recommended Inatek card and it was an utter nightmare.

Everything but the headset itself is plugged into the card, as I've found that's the best possible configuration. It's still finicky, but much, much better than it was. (I was in BSOD hell /w the Inatek card) I'm convinced that there is no truly "perfect and stable" way to set up 3+ sensors, (from the perspective of the Oculus setup tool, that is) though, as I have tried many configurations and they're all a little wacky during setup even though they work well during gameplay.

It doesn't seem to be an issue with USB, it's just that the three cameras have trouble seeing my Touch controller for the entire duration of the trigger-hold simultaneously. It's extremely annoying, but it seems pretty clear that it's just a flaw in the setup process because the whole system works like a dream once I get it configured.

I'm open to suggestions if it means not having to hold my touch controller behind my head like an dumbass 20 times in a row every time I want to adjust my sensor positions though.

It is this card:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=gbps_img_m-7_759e_13ba5bc6

But if you look on the link that OP posted, it's showing up there in the 4th row with a "Starts for Prime members at 8:55AM". You can also click there to "Watch this deal" and it will ping your phone if you are logged into the Amazon App. That's key to get in on the good "upcoming" prime deals. Otherwise there are too many to keep track of! I doubt this type of device will sell out. Although there are a lot of new Rift owners coming on with this new $400 combo deal, so maybe there will be a rush. :) I have a similar card but not this particular model for my 3 camera rig in my older computer with no USB3. Works great for 2 of the cameras, though for some reason it still tells me I should check for newer drivers though the Win 10 built in drivers are supposedly the best. ¯_(ツ)_/¯

Hi and sorry about that. If possible, you may want to purchase this specific USB add-on card, which has been confirmed to be compatible by Oculus. https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM In addition, it sounds like it could be a USB power management issue. If that is the case, unchecking "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" in the Device Manager Power Management settings for your USB Hub could help. Finally an external powered USB hub could help, though you don't want too many USB devices on one hub due to bandwidth limitations. For additional assistance, please submit a support ticket. Thanks. https://tickets.oculus.com

That sucks. The kind of generic answer is to try a 3rd party PCIe card.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

USB 3 is supposed to provide 900ma to the port but some motherboard share the power or just skimp out entirely.

I'd talk to support first though to make sure all your drivers and firmware have the most recent updates.

Good luck.

Don't know if it will or not but this is the one I used and it worked great. I'm sure that would work too though. I had static on my most recent build and changing some BIOS settings and playing around with different ports helped reduce it. Try different combinations to see if it helps clear it up if you haven't already.

Which Ryzen CPU/Mobo to upgrade to after maxing PCIE slots/SATA ports on i7 4790k/Rx480 8gb 1080p 144hz gaming/data hording build?

I'm using all the SATA headers and PCIE expansion slots on my computer, it would be nice to have more SATA based HDDs and the ability to run multiple GPU's. Current build.

My MSI Z97S SLI Krait's USB 3.0 ports were all taken so I added the usb 3.0 express card so I could plug everything in. But having more PCIE lanes would be ideal.

The 4790k is powerful enough for everything I do, it's processing power isn't holding me back just the PCIE lanes.

In no rush what so ever to build so I might wait for Ryzen 2.0 or what ever to upgrade then buy a 1600x (or which ever is best for my use case) used with a new motherboard and the best bang for the buck ram I can find.

How many drives did you connect to it? From the post i've got feeling that there are two connected (each drive). This card uses ASM1061 chipset which uses only one pci-e lane for data so maybe that's where the bottleneck is?

The second card which you've linked looks a bit better for me. It uses an Marvell 88SE9215 chipset which has some pretty solid reviews, for most people: "it just works". But i would never try to connect four drives in it - it uses only PCI Express ×1 x2 connector.

I was searching for inexpensive card for my home NAS to connect one additional drive right now and second in the future. For my server I've chosen an Delock PCI Express Card which uses an Marvell 88SE9230 chipset which is giving me normal, stable SATA 3 performance. Disk is visible in BIOS and is bootable. This card uses PCI-E x4 connector so it got more bandwith to use. Be advised that i'm right now only using this for one drive so it is not throttled by anything else and i'm only planning to keep max two disk on it.

As u/daericg, said: "You get for what you've paid for". If you want high, stable speeds then you should invest in eg. Perc H310. You can probably find many of them in good prices because (as far as i remember) Dell uses them in some of their workstations and some shops are reselling them. If you want inexpensive card for sata disks i would look at the Delock card linked above.

EDIT: links

i was having a similar issue but if i were you i would think about just getting this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/ reason being at least you know you are sorted day one.. nobody wants to get their rift open it up have problems and have to wait another 6 to 10 days for some other delivery and you could just leave these 4 ports just for your rift and have many more usb ports for future use... besides the price is worth insuring you wont be screwed when the guy delivers your rift some morning.. good luck and happy rifting pal :)

Your issues is most likely not related to the cable but a USB chipset/bandwidth/power output issue. You can solve your issue by buying either of these two add-on cards: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AVSN2YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These help because a lot of MB manufacturers skimp on the components used for the USB ports. They do not reliably deliver consistent power to all ports when multiple ports are being used and the chipsets used often can only support 1 or 2 at the full bandwidth of the USB spec. Adding these add-on cards solve the power issue and the issue of overloading the chipset because they have their own chipset on the card and they are powered directly by the power supply.

If you have open PCI-express 4x or greater slots open then I would recommend getting 2 of the ORICO cards.

I'm still waiting for my Rift actually, it arrives in another week, so not sure yet. But if you'd like I can report back when I get everything setup.

10m Active USB.3.0 Extensions (for front sensors)

3m USB 3.0 Extension (for HMD)

3m HDMI Extension (for HMD)

HDMI to DP Adapter (For GPU)

USB 3.0 PCI-E Card (to power the 10m active extensions)

I've read good things about all of these, with a lot of success stories. Hopefully all goes well on my end.

When it comes to USB extensions and where to plug in the equipment (USB 2.0 vs 3.0, etc), I found the Help section on the Oculus website to be insufficient. They don't take into consideration if you have a PCI-E USB 3.0 controller (Which I had to purchase) in addition to the on board USB 3.0 ports.

I have 4 sensors, all of which are connected to USB extension cables. I found the Oculus setup wizard to be most useful. If you have green check marks for everything, then you're good! If you don't, try plugging stuff into different ports until you get all green check marks. At one point I had to even unplug some other USB devices, plug in my sensors (so they would turn green), then I could plug in my other USB devices. I now have all 4 sensors setup working flawlessly.

For extension cables, I had no issues. Three of my sensors have 10' extenders and I also have a USB extension cable on the headset as well as an HDMI extender. I spent a decent amount of time getting my "Rift Room" setup and I am so happy that I spent the time to set it up right. Makes for such a solid experience and I have a large play area that I can freely move around in.

For reference here is the HDMI/USB cables I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (HDMI Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 3.0 Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MT1EQM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 2.0 Extender)
(Also, my 2 additional sensors came with 1 10' USB extension cable each...purchased from Newegg)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 3.0 Controller)

I had endless problems with USB. Problem is it's different for everyone, many are fine with just their Motherboard's.


What I can tell you, if you want to run extension cables, the money no object solution (the only thing that go everything working acceptably for me) is the following:


Startech PEXUSB3S44V

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S


Also, found many of the recommended cables hit and miss but Ugreen's have been excellent. Always use the shortest you can.


For 2m I have these on one sensor and one on the Rift itself:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE


I also have 1m and 3m version on my other two sensors.


To go with the 2m extension to the Rift (only if needed obvious) I used (again Ugreen):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2


Best of luck. Look forward to seeing you in there

http://www.amazon.com/HighPoint-RocketRAID-2720SGL-8-Port-PCIe/dp/B0050SLTPC is me. Has some issues on linux (drives go into scsi error recovery sometimes, but always come back quickly) but on FreeBSD it's been glorious. The one you pictured looks like mine but with 4x pcie/sata 3gbps, which should be fine for most purposes. I'm running ZFS raidz2, the card is just in passthrough, so JBOD is definitely fine.

Looks like the price went up.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I actually ordered one out of china originally but got impatient and ordered the one off of amazon while waiting (although Rosewill is still pretty much a Chinese board). If you want I will send you the chinese one. It's a different chipset but it wasn't the same as what was on my motherboard, which seemed to be the issue. You're welcome to give it a go if you would like. PM me if interested and I'll give it to you.

CT16G4WFD8266 edit: also make sure to only run it in pairs of two. Odd numbered ECC does not work well, if at all in Ryzen for whatever reason.

​

I'm running 4 of these sticks in an Asrock X370 Taichi and Ryzen 1700 (another user reported they work with the 2700X and another board). First boot, ECC was enabled and automatically set to 2666mhz.

​

Generally most Asus/Asrock motherboards have great support for ECC. I wouldn't be too concerned on the number of SATA ports though and would opt for higher quality motherboard like the aforementioned Asrock Rack or the X370 Taichi (12k capacitors, debug LED, stupid strong VRM, 10 SATA ports). With any board though you can always add an HBA like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085FT2JC/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3SCB8M3AWX80L&psc=1

​

last edit: Taichi is ATX, you're looking for MicroATX. Definitely if you're not going the Asrock Rack route (IPMI is a nice selling feature) I would opt for the B450M Steel Legend. It has THE highest build quality of any consumer MicroATX board on AM4.

Not knowing anything about your setup I'm going to guess it's a USB bandwidth issue, not power. Not all motherboards are created equal in that some will include more USB controllers (different than ports) than others. The controller can be "split" with a hub, but based on the number of devices across that controller they must all share bandwidth. My first recommendation is to try switching the devices to different USB ports to see if you can get them all happy at once. Don't try to run them all off the same hub because that guarantees the same controller.

Edit: assuming this is your issue and you're on a desktop with a free pci slot:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=asc_df_B00HJZEA2S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309776868400&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10427848564261723381&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9058138&hvtargid=pla-441634214285&psc=1

Is going to be your "end all" solution. Each of the 4 ports has its own usb controller so even a device which uses the whole bandwidth will stay happy plugged in there. I've done a lot of fighting with Oculus Rift and Kinect2.0 which are bandwidth-hungry devices (most HD cameras/capcards over usb are) and this card laughs at usb problems.

Thanks for posting

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Still got tracking issues after install usb pci-e card Anyhelp by Chaarliie


Hello,

I recently bought a vive on saturday and i've been having constant headaches with it trying to get it to work on my PC. My motherboard is a asus z170-a and googling this I found posts on this sub saying that asus boards are having issues with the vive. After trying to play some games on the vive plugged into either the motherboards usb 2.0 / 3.0 I would lose tracking after a couple of minutes of play and have to unplug and replug them back in.

So after doing I decided to buy an USB pci-e card (Link) aftering installing it my vive ran fine for about 15 mins before the same issues started coming up again.

What should I do?

	

	

	

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i/o crest works wonders, it's x1, 4 sata III ports that be had at $35. I/O Crest SI-PEX40064 i'm sure you can find them cheaper.

​

they are also known as SYBA SI-PEX40064 aka. IOCrest IO-PCE9215-4I
(from unraid HW comp list: 4 port, PCIex1, SATA III, Marvell 88SE9215, bootable, working out of the box, supports drives > 2.2 TB)


I use that on my low power box with four 2TB wd greens and don't have any issues. if you want to go with something better, SAS2008/LSI 9201/9211 HBA card on IT MODE is the clear cut winner for ease and compatibility. cons: they're a little more expensive ($65 + price of cables).

Is it a matter of not having enough USB ports, or not having the right ones?

I'll probably end up getting both in time.. but from what I've heard/read I think the rift will suit me better for the time being :)

Edit: either way, what can I do about this USB situation lol. I thought the USB ports were a part of the motherboard.. does this mean that needs to be upgraded? Oculus recommend getting this

Thats expensive for 2.4 GH/s, thats exactly what im getting on the antminer U2 that I paid under 20 bucks for. I got mine used from amazon. Here is a link amazon I was going to grab a rock miner R-box amazon they go for 70.00 bucks new on amazon and youll get 32-37 GH/s im sure you might be able to find them cheaper, but I was also looking on craigslist and came across some good deals on the older antminer s1 for under 200.00 bucks and it will crank out 200 GH/s. Of course I also found a kcminer neptune, the guy wants 5000.00 for it, and it cranks out a minimum of 3 TH/s. Im just not brave enough nor do I know enough if that is a wise investment. Like you said 200.00 is more palatable, its not going to make or break you.

I highly recommend a Fractal Design or Lian Li cases. After going through a number of cases, external DASs, etc for my 250TB+, those are the only cases I've been truly satisfied with. I highly regret the SilverStone cases I've purchased. This is based on the factors of cooling ability, noise level, and ultimate cost.

From a cooling perspective, the FD cases can't be beat. You can stuff those so full of huge (and quiet fans) that your drives will be positively arctic.

For building a DAS, all you need is a JBOD power board. They go from really simple to really complex, with IPMI, fan headers and all the fixens.

Then something like this with some breakout cables and you are set.

Obviously that's a bit more than the $70 are you talking about though. But your duplicator case method would be limited on bandwidth vs SAS which would run the drives at full speed. But that's the method I use to put together my DASs now.

It was what really started the popularization of VR that we're witnessing now and got myself and many others excited about it. I was already set on getting the CV1 long before the Vive was even announced.

While I'm not overjoyed with some of the business decisions and politics of the company, I've been very satisfied with the product itself. My only significant issue with the Rift that is not something other headsets would also have is that the cloth gets pretty dirty and is more difficult to keep clean than plain plastic.

Some of the concerns others have mentioned are barely issues at all or very easily fixed- the USB number of USB ports needed is fixed with a cheap pci-e usb card, the nose gap can be fixed with some additional foam if it is even an issue at all(it doesn't exist for me). Hoping CV2 has wireless sensors though, that would be neat.

Mining seems like a great idea, and it's a fun hobby, but it's pretty tricky in effect. Timing is everything, and you have even more uncertainty than just by buying bitcoin and holding.

If you wanted to see what it was about, you could buy a used 2.4 Gh USB miner from Amazon or something. You basically won't make any money aside from a few thousandths of a bitcoin because they're underpowered, but it'll cost you under $30 and you'll get a chance, if you set it up on your own, to start learning about what's going on when you mine. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408408030&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+gh+miner+bitcoin

Also, /r/bitcoinmining is a good place to start on mining info.

I had same issue but i was using my motherboard onboard USB3 (older)...that didn't work, so bought an external powered USB3...didn't work. Ended up buying this USB PCI card...everything worked perfectly:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LS4JH7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

( I also did the full uninstall/re-install of video card driver software - and update all windows updates)

Good luck!

I think I'll actually try to answer your questions (instead of just spamming my fanboy agenda).

1. What matters in regards to USB ports is the total bandwidth available. Some motherboards aren't able to supply enough bandwidth for the Rift and 3 sensors. I wouldn't worry about this issue unless the Oculus software reports "Poor tracking quality" on your sensors. If that happens you might have to buy a PCI-E USB expansion card ($25).
   
   
2. A third sensor will improve tracking quality for room scale and larger play spaces. You can do smaller room scale with 2 sensors, by placing them in opposing corners of your play area. Mount them as high up as possible, pointed toward each other, and angled downward. Your milage may vary depending on the size of your play space, and if you are able to place the sensors optimally.
   
   Some further notes:
   
   
3. You should be fine starting out with 2 sensors, and expanding to 3 if you notice tracking issues. Note that a 3rd sensor may in some cases require the previously mentioned PCI-E USB expansion card (Link: Oculus recommended card).
   
   
4. Since it's your first time trying VR: Take it easy in the beginning. All the experiences in the Oculus app has a comfort rating. Start with things that are rated "Comfortable", before moving on to Moderate and Intense levels. If you start experiencing nausea or discomfort, exit VR and take a break. Never try to power through the discomfort. And don't worry if VR sickness happens a lot in the beginning. Your VR legs will get stronger.
   
   
5. If you have a beefy computer congratz! Download the Oculus Tray Tool and experiment with super sampling for a sharper visual experience.

Few useful links to get you started.

Oculus Rift Room Scale Setup Guide

List of recommended cable extensions

I'm using 3 Sensor setup in L configurations with CableCreation CD0034 and Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card. My sensors are mounted about 10 inches and 40 degrees away from the ceiling. Perfect tracking in the play area. Good tracking out of usual play area, when in bed playing seated games in view of only two sensors which are 12 to 15 feet away.

I had an issue with this too, but others on this Reddit page suggested to me that I could use a PCI-E to USB 3 expansion like this.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

I haven't gone ahead and bought it so far though. As I mentioned in an earlier comment, I'm also wary of whether my i-7 860 will be good enough to power VR, so together with having to purchase this USB expansion plus a better graphics card it's left me wondering whether I'd just be better of waiting until later in the year and buying a brand new computer instead.

I have two DS4243's in my lab at home both full of 2TB Hitachi spinning rust (potentially two more shelves coming if I win the auctions) connected via adapter cables (QSFP+ to SFF-8088) to an IBM M1015 card internally.

The NetApp DS4243 is QSFP+, and it is 3Gb/s (the last number in the model is the transfer rate) you will need to convert that to SFF-8088, and then from SFF-8088 to SFF-8087 if your JBOD card doesn't have SFF-8088 ports externally. Or you can find a compatible QSFP+ card for your NAS.

I have heard murmurs that the DS4243 can be picky about the disks you put in them. I got the two I have with disks already, but IIRC you just need to reformat them into a specific format or something to get them to show up with the DS4243 so be aware of that.

FWIW if you aren't worried about noise so much, the DS4243 can be picked up for about $100-$150 without disks and I'd argue is the best bang for the buck. Even then its the quietest thing in my lab unless they're spinning up from a cold boot.

----

So to recreate my setup you'd need the following:

• 1x - CableDeconn SFF-8088 to SFF-8087 Adapter Bracket
  
• 2x - SFF-8087 to SFF-8087 cables
  
• 1x - IBM M1015 flashed to IT Mode
  
• 2x - NetApp DS4243 JBOD Shelves
  
• 2x - QSFP+ to SFF-8088 Cables ~1m - 3m in length
  
• 2x - QSFP+ to QSFP+ cables
  
  You'd connect it all up like this in order from top to bottom:
  
  
• IBM M105
  
• 2x SFF-8087 to SFF-8087 cables
  
• SFF-8087 to SFF-8088 adapter bracket
  
• 2x QSFP+ to SFF-8088 cables
  
• 1st DS4243
  
• 2x QSFP+ to QSFP+ cables
  
• 2nd DS4243
  
  FYI, You can chain (I think max is two) the DS4243's together.

Ahh that does make a difference. I presumed you only had the AMD APU. Since you have a GTX 970 running most VR-applications, shouldn't be a problem.

The cpu itself, is still a slight bit below the minimum requirements when compared to the intel i5-4590 Oculus uses as a reference point, but it might still be powerful enough to run VR-applications. (Don't quote me on this though)

In regards to your getting usb3 on your pc.
As your motherboard does not have any usb3 connectors, the only solution on top of my head would be to get a pci-e adapter like this and install it in a spare pci-e port if you have any.

As to your hdmi issue. I would be very surprised if your graphics card does not have a full sized hdmi output. Can i assume that it is your monitor which is lacking a full sized hdmi input?

I had issues with 3 and 4 sensors with 1 Inateck card, so I bought two and separated the 4 sensors, that worked great until one of the Inateck cards caught fire. I then bought the Startech card and all has been great! but the card is expensive and you must have a PCIe x4 slot avaliable. I you have AMazon Prime it may be worth buying the Startech card and test with it, if it does not solve your issues send it right back, Amazon has always been great on returns for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/

Is it an older TE stick? I only recall older Xbox sticks having issues, the generation 1 sticks. I had a PS3 stick before, and got it to work on PC after a lot of headaches. To make mine work, I had to buy a PCI to USB 2.0 card with a VIA chipset on it. I didn't think Xbox sticks were affected by this problem, but I hope this information helps you. The pci cards themselves are fairly cheap, and you should be able to pick one up online.

Here's one for illustration's sake: notice the VIA branding on the chip.

Best of luck.

I think that you're supposed to use a PCIe 3.0 slot, but my computer only has PCIe 2.0 support. If your computer has been manufactured after ~2008 (which I certainly hope it has if you're getting a rift!) then you should have at least 2.0 slots. I'm using this expansion card and with my Rift and both sensors plugged into it things have worked flawlessly.

TL;DR you're probably fine, just grab this card.

Why do you have one of the best overclockable cpus of the last 5 years on a locked motherboard!? kidding Makes me want to cry lol

Have you ran the Rift compatibility tool? I'm not concerned with your cpu or gpu at this point, but whether or not your usb 3.0 ports are compatible with the Rift. Also, your motherboard only has two usb 3.0 ports, which is fine for now, but if you want to get Touch down the road, you'll need a third port. Fortunately, an incompatible usb 3.0 controller and/or insufficient ports can be remedied with a usb expansion card that plugs into a pci-e slot.

So with that out of the way, if you want to overclock, unfortunately, there aren't any 1155 mobos still in production that are any good(overclockable + having enough usb 3 ports), and this leaves you with two options:

Go on ebay and search for "1155 motherboard"'s and look for a used one that allows overclocking and has enough usb 3.0 ports(and are hopefully compatible), or keep your current mobo and just get the usb expansion card to add the ports, if you need them.

It'll be a bummer to have to leave your 2600k on its leash, but the latter option is the easiest/cheaper route to take, and, personally, I don't think tracking down a mobo is worth the hassle. As much as I like overclocking, the benefit it brings to gaming is pretty minor.

As far as your GPU goes, I have a GTX 780(2 in SLI, but SLI means moot to VR currently :( ) and am waiting for Nvidia to release their pascal line of cards, which should be revealed in April and released sometime towards the beginning of June. I'm not saying drop $700+ on a new card, but the release of pascal should drop the prices of the 980's for you during the following weeks, so wait until that time, if you can.

So to summarize and add a bit more:

Keep your current mobo, buy an expansion card should your USB 3 controller be incompatible and/or you want to purchase Touch down the road. Your stock 2600k should be okay. Don't buy a GPU now, wait for Nvidia to release their new line of cards and purchase a 980 when the price drops. Once you've done this and you find your CPU isn't cutting it, THEN track down a mobo, buy a cooler(like something from the Corsair Hydro series, they're around $100 and the 1155 brackets are compatible with Skylake should you decide to upgrade later), and overclock it.

Here's what I would do in your situation:

Put the standalone SSD devices on 6Gb+ AHCI motherboard connectors. These will do quite nicely. Motherboard AHCI slots are pretty well connected.

I'd grab a LSI SAS 9207-8i (about $100 on Amazon) and 2 x SFF-8087-SATA fanout cables (about $10 on amazon). It uses the mps driver in the base system. This combination is very, very solid and reliable. I use it myself for a media server.

You can add a second 9207-8i if you need more ports. I've found the AHCI pci cards work well too but watch the PCIe connectivity.

This device: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ9T3OU cost $15.

ahci0: <ASMedia ASM1061 AHCI SATA controller> ...
ahci0: AHCI v1.20 with 2 6Gbps ports, Port Multiplier supported

Keep in mind the PCIe lane bandwidth: 1 x PCIe lane is: PCIe 1.x: 250MByte/sec, 2.x: 500MByte/sec, 3.x 985MByte/sec.

That 2 port AHCI card I linked above is 1 lane PCIe2.0. If you put 2 x SSDs on it that could do 600MB/sec each, the most it can shuffle through the motherboard connection is 500MB/sec. The LSI card is 8 lane PCIe 3.0 so that choke-point isn't there.

I'd add a second 9207-8i if I wanted to do any non-trivial amount of IO on more than 8 ports.

Also, don't set your expectations too high for L2ARC. My personal observations lead me to believe that the overheads of running it don't really pay off until you start having a L2ARC device with a good 5x to 10x performance advantage over the backend devices. YMMV of course, but I've never not been disappointed with L2ARC setups.

Personally, I over-spec system ram in preference to L2ARC.

Fair enough brother. The controllers are on point indeed. There will always be a newer and better HMD coming out, I personally can’t wait for the StarVR One. I have a Rift, Go, Vive, and Vive Pro and they are all groovy. I am proud you have done such a good job working and saving up for your purchase. You are gonna be so happy!

Also- if you are going to add that 3rd sensor for full room scale tracking you may want to grab an additional USB card for your build as those bandwidth issues are pretty wack. https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM is compatible per the oculus site. Just food for future thought.

I bought a used PS3 TE1 on craiglists. Great condition for $90. Owner got SFV on the PC but couldn't get it to work. Still got it anyways and did some research. From what I found out it seems that the ps3 te1 hasn't been working on the pc since the sfiv days for many. It has to do with the UHCI USB 1.1 that many newer motherboards don't have. Only option for many is a hardware workaround which is a usb pci card. I got this one http://www.amazon.com/Syba-Port-Card-Components-SD-VIA-5U/dp/B000JFJZGG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00. It's been working fine since with joy2key. Hope that helps.

Edit: If you are going to get any USB pci cards make sure it's of the VIA chipset. Those are the ones that the ps3 te1 will work with.

If it's just a data drive and you're not looking to do anything super fancy with it. These work great.

However, be advised that, because the card is PCI-E x1, if you were to actually plug in 4 hard drives or SSDs, you're gonna run smack against bandwidth limitations if you start trying to hammer I/O on the drives connected to the card all at once.

I have this exact card as well as the 2-port PCI-E x2 slot version in use and they work very well for supplementing on-board headers when you're a few short.

I would not attempt to use these cards to run HDDs/SSDs that were going to be datastores for VMs nor as the HBA for something like FreeNAS. If your goal is along those lines, you'd be much better off looking for an HBA like the 9207-8i. You can get those way, way cheap on ebay, and then you just need the correct cables for 'em.

What make/model is the PC? While I agree with /u/LetsGetBlotto in general many of the less expensive PCs from the likes of Dell, HP, etc. use custom motherboards and it wouldn't surprise me a bit if, to save a few pennies per board, they cut out any extra ports.

If that's the case, do you have an open PCI-E slot? If so you can add an expansion adapter.

Taking a step back though, the main reason for adding an SSD is to speed up the PC, speeding up any reads and writes to disk. That means the best use is as the main C: drive where the OS is installed. You can replace the existing drive with an SSD instead of adding it in addition to the HDD. There's a process called cloning that copies everything from the HDD to the SSD. Although many will recommend a clean Windows install, cloning is simpler, no need to reinstall all your programs.

Can confirm this card works like a charm:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFR2H64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZG5oxbQXEQ0EK

I have the two port version with a powered bluray drive and a WD My Passport working wonderfully using PCI power.

If the cable is fine my best guess is that the USB slot isn't providing enough power. When I replaced my launch Rift S with a newer one (manufactured in August) I noticed that it no longer liked the USB slot I had been using for my launch Rift S.

It'd work fine for a few minutes until something happens that I'm guessing requires more energy and the PC isn't supplying enough and then I lose tracking. For example in Creed VR whenever I got knocked down I'd lose tracking and I'd have to quit the game and restart Oculus Home. That's something that never happened with my launch Rift S.

So to fix that I just bought a USB card and I haven't had issues since:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you do go this route I suggest you make sure to disable USB sleep through device manager, to be safe just disable USB sleep on every USB Root Hub listed. I made the mistake of not disabling the new USB Root Hub that was created when I installed the card and it went to sleep after my first session and it was a nightmare to get it to unsleep, I had to keep uninstalling and reinstalling until the drivers finally worked magically.

Once I got it working again I made sure to disable USB sleep on all the USB root hubs and haven't had any issues since. Do note that Windows Updates sometimes resets your power saving options so after every Windows Update make sure that your USB root hubs are still set to never sleep.

Build complete!

I ultimately decided to buy the ASUS board and replace the CPU cooler while I was at it. A few caveats about the Sabertooth X58:

1. If you want the X58, consider a case with USB 2.0 ports on the front panel. The Cooler Master HAF 922 only has USB 3.0 ports, which are meant to connect to the motherboard with a 20-pin connector. The X58 lacks a port for this type of connector, so I will have to install something like this Anker Uspeed card if I want to use the front USB ports.
   
   
2. The first two SATA ports on the board are 6 Gb/s, but they are on a separate Marvell controller, which by all accounts is absolute garbage. I am using the 3 Gb/s ports, which are on an Intel controller, and those seem fast enough for me. I disabled the Marvell in the BIOS.
   
   
3. Make sure to switch your storage mode to AHCI if you want to get the most out of your SATA drives. The BIOS defaults to IDE mode. (And the ASUS manual is mostly useless because it doesn't tell you anything you can't already infer from the names of the BIOS settings.)
   
   
4. You need to manually configure the boot order of your hard disks, otherwise it will try the wrong disk and fail to find your OS. I had a moment of panic because I forgot that my boot partition is not on my SSD but rather on the original HDD that came with my Dell.
   
   Personally, I think these are minor issues as long as you're aware of them. And now that I've told you, you are :)
   
   The 5800 series does not require Dell-specific drivers. In fact, Windows 7 detected and installed drivers for pretty much all my hardware on boot. It took a couple reboots to get everything installed.
   
   Final tally:
   
   

• Cooler Master HAF 922 case - 79.99 USD
  
• Corsair TX650 power supply - 89.99 USD
  
• ASUS Sabertooth X58 motherboard - 119.99 USD
  
• Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU cooler w/fan - 33.01 USD
  
  
  TOTAL COST: 322.98 USD + tax
  
  Not bad to get a few more years of life out of the components. And this case and PSU combo should be a solid platform for future upgrades.
  
  I wish you luck with your own build. Feel free to PM me if you have specific questions.

I'm running a GIGABYTE GA-Z87X-UD3H 1150 Mobo, i5 4690k CPU, 16 GB of GSKILL memory, 3 solid state hard drives (1TB, 500GB and 240GB), DVD-Burner and a 1070 EVGA SuperClock video card. I have 3-12" case lights and 6 case fans (1-240mm, 5-120mm). I keep my Astro A50 headphones, my xBox 360 controller and my phone plugged in / charging USB when I VR. Everything plugged in is USB 3.0 and I haven't had any power or tracking issues with 3 sensors. I'm running this ancient 500W OCZ power supply from 2008. I didn't upgrade my power supply during my last couple upgrades because because videos cards and CPUs have been becoming so power efficient. I think the power issues people are experiencing have to do with how the main board handles power and how much it supplies to the USB controller and less to do with the power supply. I assume mine is pretty tough since the 6-USB ports on the back are all 3.0. I'd take a good look at your mother board before buying a new PSU. Does anyone know if the PCI-e x1 USB cards would help? It seems they'd get supplied power separate from the on-board USB controller, I'm not sure how that works though. I bought one to free up USB ports but I haven't installed it yet. It will be interesting to see if my 500W can handle that too.

Eek, I just noticed I'm running pretty much the same mobo as OP. I guess I'd try a powered USB hub, it's hard to believe my 500W is kicking so much ass.

What do they have now? I have the Xeon equivalent of a Q9650 in my office PC (mostly my daughter's computer these days) and it's not slow for web browsing or word processing. Hell it runs Fallout 4 @ 1080p on medium settings.

Getting an SSD does make a huge difference. In fact if your parents PC has a Core 2 Duo or Quad in it already, they probably don't need a new computer. You're better off getting a PCI Expresss SATA3 controller card and a cheap SSD. That plus a fresh install of Windows would probably do wonders.

It probably is their aging hard drive that's causing the slowness, and maybe a lack of memory for having Chrome tabs open. Really, you don't need much processing power to browse the web or use office software. I honestly can't tell the difference between my office PC and my gaming PC for those tasks, and my gaming PC is a i7 4790K w/ 16gb of DDR3 while my office PC is the aforementioned C2Q Q9650 w/ 8gb of DDR2. Web browsers and office suites just don't put enough of a load on a processor for it to matter.

Edit: If I had your budgetary constraints and I had to get my parents a new computer, this is what I would build.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD A10-5800K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor | $87.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-F2A68HM-DS2H Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard | $46.99 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | A-Data Premier Pro SP600 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $44.99 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $28.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | SeaSonic 300W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $35.99 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $244.95
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-17 06:16 EST-0500 |

And I would save up the extra 45 dollars to make it happen because they're my parents. Your parents deserve a power supply that isn't a fire hazard, they deserve a motherboard that isn't garbage, they deserve a case with some USB 3.0 ports and it's about to be 2016 so be a good child and get them a quad core while you're at it.

Edit2: And just to drive the point home about buying used, this is a much better computer for cheaper. Stick an SSD in it and your 8gb of RAM and it's good to go

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optiplex-980-Intel-Core-i5-3-33GHz-3GB-250GB-Windows-7-Professional-/111814960787?hash=item1a08b0e693:g:cuwAAOSw7hRWOTkw

I was torn on it too, but I also liked I could have 8 3.5" drives and 4 2.5" drives if I wanted. All I'd need is a HBA card like the LSI Logic
SAS9211-8I (amazon.com) to run 8 HDD's plus onboard SATA ports. I also liked I could use the m-ATX and not be limited by the m-ITX as well. Most everything in my case is around 25-30c at any given time.

I opted for a Windows Server with lots of storage bays.
Server 2012 has a "storage pools" feature, if you are fairly tech savvy and interested in that type of thing. I found it super easy to set up and configure.


Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147165

Raidcard:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050SLTPC/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Edit: For personal, non commercial use you can get Server 2012 R2 from Microsoft for free, via dreamspark. https://www.dreamspark.com/

Please help me compile a list of known issues so we can itemize and isolate them with known successful fixes. If anyone has fixes please pile on and share them.

Known issues

• random HDMI disconnects
  
  https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/5j21cd/a_plea_for_oculus_to_put_together_some_resources/
  
  
• Trouble upgrading to 3rd sensor
  
  
• Trouble upgrading to 4th sensor
  
  
• Floating controller
  
  
• Setup issue
  
  
• Camera hand off issue
  
  
• Controller Jitter
  
  
• guardian wall shifting
  
  
  
  TROUBLESHOOTING
  
  
• DO NOT MOUNT SENSORS UPSIDE DOWN. If you have them ceiling mounted, move those mounts to the walls so that your sensors can be right-side-up. - /u/MattVanAndel
  
  
• Update Windows power plan settings. In your Power Plan's advanced settings, disable "USB selective suspend" - /u/MattVanAndel
  
  
  
• In Device Manager, edit the properties for each USB hub and Oculus device and disable "Allow Windows to turn this off to save power" - /u/MattVanAndel
  
  
  Recommended Equipment
  
  
• Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card

I'll toss a plug in for UnRAID here, it would do what you want. I use it and love it. May be the simplest option for you as it is a file server, and can also manage VMs and docker containers. There are dockers for Plex, backup software (crashplan, etc), and many other useful things (unifi ap controller, openvpn server, web server, ftp, etc etc).

I also just picked up two of these for my new server:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085FT2JC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They work with JBOD and can be used with HDDs and SSDs. Not sure what the T30 and R710 have currently, but you may be able to flash them to IT mode for JBOD support.

If the 9207-8i is too pricey, you can get an H310 for around $50-100 and flash it to IT mode yourself. Amazon has them but ebay may be better.

Blue Iris looks like popular software. Those cams are a bit less than 4k, so you might not need 30TB but the WD Reds are the drives to get, and you might want a small SSD for the OS. I'd get a 6800k/X99/DDR4 system with a RAID card (here is a lower end unit, but it should work for this using mini-SAS->Sata adapter https://www.amazon.com/HighPoint-RocketRAID-2720SGL-8-Port-PCIe/dp/B0050SLTPC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467390211&sr=8-1&keywords=raid+6). You don't need a DVR card b/c the cameras are digital and that CPU should be strong enough for all of them and the RAID processing. Just get a cheap nvidia card (750ti or less), the GPU shouldn't make much of a difference.

The question is a little bit broad, but you plug it into your graphics cards display port and into a USB port, download the Oculus software and steam VR if you want to play steam games and you're set. You'll want a graphics card like a GTX1050ti or higher for the games and at least a modern CPU.

Alternatively in the Rift S case it uses some kind of 3D mapping of your room/ play area to track the headset with it's cameras and then also uses the headsets cameras to track the controllers via IR lights emitted from them that flash at different frequencies.

If you do get a Rift S and your specs are up to par but you find that you loose tracking completely sometimes or get static/ snow looking stuff on your screen this can be fixed by purchasing and installing a USB expansion card in your pc, the recommended ones are basically anything with a Fresco L1100 chipset like this one: https://www.amazon.com.au/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

Oh, but one thing though. If you don't need the wifi (I move mine around a bit) then get a cheaper mb. MB's are all the same really, just get a z if you want to overclock it, and connections that you're happy with. If you go super cheap, you can even add on a pcie to usb extension for less than your savings if you're concerned about usb's.

Board and CPU combo is good, enough single thread performance for the Minecraft server, enough multi thread for transcoding 3-4 1080p streams in Plex. (Rule of thumb is 2K passmark score per 10mb/s of video)

The board is just standard ATX size. It does only have 6 SATA ports, so you will need buy an HBA card to add more ports, or use fewer storage devices.

https://www.amazon.com/SAS9211-8I-8PORT-Int-Sata-Pcie/dp/B002RL8I7M

That card can handle 8 drives total, 4 per cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Internal-SFF-8087-Breakout/dp/B012BPLYJC

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU Cooler | ARCTIC Freezer 34 CO CPU Cooler | $31.95 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $64.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GT 1030 2 GB Video Card | $84.99 @ Newegg
Case | Antec Three Hundred Two ATX Mid Tower Case | $94.58 @ Walmart
Power Supply | SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $79.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | ARCTIC ACFAN00119A 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fan | $8.52 @ Amazon
Case Fan | ARCTIC ACFAN00119A 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fan | $8.52 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $373.45
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-26 08:45 EDT-0400 |

CPU cooler to keep the CPU quiet. Bit of overclocking headroom if you want the extra performance. Compatible RAM. Basic GPU that will be able to handle any 4K 60Hz HEVC video decoding. Case with tons of storage room. Efficient power supply for low noise, and a long warranty. Extra 120mm fans for front intakes, to keep the storage cool.

Nope. The single connector on that cable is a SFF-8087 SAS Connector (NOT a SATA connector which your motherboard will have!).

SAS (Serial Attached SCSI, server grade / enterprise) controllers are backwards-compatible with SATA (Serial ATA, "mainstream" / consumer) Drives, but SATA is not forwards-compatible with SAS. If you have a SAS Controller, yes you can hook up 4 drives to a single SAS port, but if you have SAS Drives (And for this purpose that cable can be thought of as turning your drives into SAS Drives even though technically it really isn't) you can't connect them to a SATA Controller.

SAS Controllers are server-grade gear, and come in at several hundreds of dollars for the "cheap" ones.

Get a cheap HBA (Host Bus Adapter) card to go in a PCIe port, like the ones everyone else is suggesting.

This one is 4 port and (allegedly) has hot swap support (no rebooting when plugging / unplugging drives) which your motherboard probably won't have (Some nice ones do though):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/
But I'm sure you could find cheaper.

Try different USB ports or external PCIE USB card. My friend has similar issue like you and he added a PCIE USB card and that solved his issue. Good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/

Most are pretty cheap, I got one that was pretty expensive, that gives each port it's own USB controller.

This is the one that I got:
StarTech.com 4 Port PCI Express... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Also the extra sensor comes with a USB 2.0 extension, if you want it to go over USB 3.0 you're gonna want a USB 3.0 active extension.

Edit: active extension depending on how long you need the extension to be.

I had a very similar issue with a USB peripheral (not a Vive), but the symptoms were exactly the same. For no reason, it would disconnect/reconnect over and over in rapid succession (hearing the Windows sound chime over and over). Like you, I tried all kinds of things trying to blame the peripheral, but in the end I resolved it by purchasing a PCI-E USB 3.0 card and using those ports. Hasn't missed a beat since. Apparently it was some issue with my on-board USB ports. Definitely worth a try since they're not very expensive (around $30).

EDIT: Nevermind - I see now that you already bought a PCI E card. Which one did you get? I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW

It uses external power to make sure it provides sufficient power to the USB device. That may be your issue as well if the adapter you bought doesn't use external power.

It really depends on two conditions: SATA or M.2.

for the more common SATA based connectors, the Samsung 850/860 are industry leading and retain their read and write speeds (550+ MB/s).

For M.2 (If your motherboard or laptop has the slot), the speeds are even faster reaching 3.0-3.5x those speeds (upwards 1700MB/s). I recommend WD-Black or WD-Blue for decent budgets. If your PC has a free PCI-E Slot, you can install an adapter pretty easily (https://www.amazon.com/Mailiya-M-2-PCIe-3-0-Adapter/dp/B01N78XZCH/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=m.2+pcie+adapter&qid=1570740812&s=electronics&sr=1-3)

You only have 2 usb ports? What the hell? Where do your other peripherals go? Don't tell me you are using a PS/2 mouse and keyboard XD

Yeah it is easy. Just put more in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The one I linked is an Oculus recommended one. This is probably the easiest hardware upgrade you can do. Shouldn't be too difficult even for someone who hasn't messed around inside a PC before. Just unscrew the little section on the back plate to make room for it, plug it into the PCI-E slot above or beneath your graphics card and plug your power source into it as well.

I've been doing this for many years. I just run a regular Linux distro and do not run a special NAS OS. My router is the same way - just a regular Linux distro.

My general goals are low power and cheap with lots of drives. I don't generally care about size or performance.

Components:

Case: I have a full tower case I've been using for 20-ish years. For you, anything you want with 5.25" bays. Here's my old one, which is huge, but has a ton of 5.25" bays:

https://www.anandtech.com/show/383

SATA hotswap bays: I've been using 3 of these for 10+ years to give me 9 bays:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Drive-Trayless-Mobile-Backplane/dp/B000NMAZU0

3 of those gives me 9 hotswap bays. However, one thing I don't like about them is the small 40mm fans on the back. Those things seem to last 2-3 years, and with 2*3=6 of them in my case, there' always one dying and making horrible grinding noises (or completely stopped). Even worse, replacing them requires removing the bay from my case, then using a screwdriver to take apart the back of the bay. Other than the fan, the bays work great.

/u/bigdizizzle posted this and and if I were doing it over again, I'd probably give this a try hoping the larger fan dies less often (and half the fans means less failures per year).

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817995111

Motherboard + CPU: I have this:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157513

I went with this because it is a moderately powerful system (quad core with decent IO), has 3 PCIe slots (all are 2.0 1x, but one is physically 16x), USB3.0 for any external drives I might want to add, it uses normal desktop RAM, and it is very low power. The completed system, with an SSD but no hard drives, pulls 14 watts. There are smalled mITX versions, but those only give you one PCIe slot plus you have to use SODIMMs, so I suggest going with the mATX versions. Best of all, the price was right at $70 for the motherboard+CPU. Oh, and it is fanless. Some options I looked at had 40mm fans on the motherboard/CPU and past experience (my previous NAS build was with Atom330 motherboards) taught me that 40mm fans on the motherboard die or make horrible sounds quickly.

But, that motherboard is now old. Some newer, similar options, which I have not fully researched are:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157729

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157807

My J1900 and the 2 above CPUs compared:

https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/Intel-Celeron-J1900-vs-Intel-Celeron-J3455-vs-Intel-Celeron-J4105/2131vs2875vs3159

Weirdly, the last and best one (J4105) is limited to 8GB RAM, while the lower end J3455 and my old J1900 both handle 16GB. I don't know what's up with that.

Biostar makes a nearly identical J1900 board called the J1900MH2 and I bought one of those too (for $50 open box). It's basically identical, but hotswap does not work on the two internal SATA ports. So, I used that one for my router and the Asrock (with working hotswap) became my NAS. So, beware of Biostar BIOS possibly not supporting hotswap on the internal ports. I'd stick to Asrock.

More SATA ports: The motherboard comes with 2, and then I added 3 of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/

This isn't high performance, but we're talking PCIe 2.0 1x anyway. Hard drives tend to be slow anyway. These plus the internal ports gives me 14 SATA ports. These have proven reliable under Linux.

End result:

I have a NAS with 14 SATA ports, 9 hotswap bays, gigabit Ethernet, an OK (not great, not terrible) CPU, and I pull only 14 watts plus the hard drives. The USB 3.0 lets me connect a bunch of USB hard drives too.

Currently, I have 7 3.5" drives in there. I also have 9 external drives connected by USB 3.0. Those external drives are for backups, and they power on every night, perform a backup, and then power off. Those USB enclosures contain all my old junk hard drives from old computers. There is even a PATA drive still in use there. The backups array is where my old drives go to be run until they die.

My system has enough ram and CPU to run some VMs. I have one VM running a torrentbox that VPNs itself to a VPN provider, and anther VM running as a Bitcoin full node. Then, of course, the NAS is serving SMB to my regular PCs. This also runs as my "server" for various random things like MRTG, Munin, and so on.

Finally, I like that it is power efficient. That helps heat generation too.

Just within the past couple weeks, I got one of these:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817198068

I haven't installed it yet though. This is the same idea as the 3.5" bays, but for 6 hotswap 2.5" drives (SSDs) into a single 5.25" bay. My boot drive array is 5x1TB drives (RAID6) that are at 84334 hours of runtime (9.6 years) so I'm thinking it's probably about time to replace them - with SSDs. I also have 2x8TB drives in RAID1 used for mass storage (videos, etc).

Just as a suggestion, what I did was put /boot on a USB thumb drive and then my OS right on the main RAID6 array. That way I get great high reliability for my OS drive, but the thumb drive is there to take care of booting and initramfs (required to mdadm + LVM before trying to mount /). I didn't want to put /boot on a hard drive, since they're much more likely to fail than a USB flash drive sitting there almost never getting written to (only on kernel upgrades).

OS + old storage

cat /proc/mdstat

Personalities : [raid0] [raid1] [raid10] [raid6] [raid5] [raid4] <br />
md127 : active raid6 sdb[2] sda[0] sdc[1] sdg[4] sdd[3]<br />
      2930279232 blocks level 6, 64k chunk, algorithm 2 [5/5] [UUUUU]<br />
# df -h /<br />
Filesystem                     Size  Used Avail Use% Mounted on<br />
/dev/mapper/storage1-storage1  2.5T  2.2T  194G  92% /<br />

New mass storage:

btrfs fi show /storage/

Label: 'storage'  uuid: a6864940-727c-4740-a20d-1f37a202006b<br />
        Total devices 2 FS bytes used 4.54TiB<br />
        devid    1 size 7.28TiB used 4.74TiB path /dev/sde<br />
        devid    6 size 7.28TiB used 4.74TiB path /dev/sdf<br />

Backups pile of old drives:

btrfs fi show /backups/

Label: 'backups'  uuid: 81f5c405-9864-4178-b964-ed60149caa82<br />
        Total devices 9 FS bytes used 3.79TiB<br />
        devid    1 size 931.51GiB used 903.00GiB path /dev/sdk<br />
        devid    2 size 931.51GiB used 904.00GiB path /dev/sdl<br />
        devid    4 size 111.76GiB used 86.00GiB path /dev/sdq<br />
        devid    5 size 465.76GiB used 440.00GiB path /dev/sdp<br />
        devid    6 size 465.76GiB used 440.03GiB path /dev/sdm<br />
        devid    7 size 1.82TiB used 1.79TiB path /dev/sdn<br />
        devid    8 size 2.73TiB used 2.70TiB path /dev/sdi<br />
        devid    9 size 465.76GiB used 440.00GiB path /dev/sdj<br />
        devid   10 size 931.51GiB used 22.00GiB path /dev/sdo<br />

My router, as mentioned earlier, uses the Biostar version of the same MB as my NAS, but obviously without the SATA bays or the SATA cards. One of the PCIe slots has a dual port gig Ethernet card. This lets me do dual WAN. Then, boot is a cheap 120 GB SSD. Total power usage is 14 watts.

It isn't specifically 'Intel' chipset that matters, it's UHCI support. Which older Intel chipsets (ICH series) support, along with some via chips, etc.

My friend had no UHCI support so I picked out a plug-in card from amazon for him for a few dollars.

Anything with a VIA VT62xx (VT6202 / VT6212) chip should work. Something like this

Try one of these two pci-e usb cards.

2 Port

4 Port

I can't find the source right now but I read someplace that these cards were recommend by a valve employee for people having usb issues.

Good luck!

Yes, they are. A SATA card simply provides more ports so that more drives can be connected individually. It's possible to set up software RAID, but that can be a pain and is slower. A RAID card actually controls the RAID setup with its own chip. That card you linked would NOT work in a PCI-E slot; it is a slow PCI card which is different.

This card is basically the same as the other Amazon link, but it adds support for RAID 0 and RAID 1. Anything that supports more RAID levels will likely be more expensive. This is a good example.. It supports RAID 0, 1, 5, 10, 50, and JBOD.

You have room for a PCIe card?

https://smile.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=7+port+pcie&qid=1558542239&s=gateway&sr=8-3

These things are super clean rather than a dongle that hangs off the back.

https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-Extended-MacBook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B07L32B9C2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+hub&qid=1558542406&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Otherwise 2 of those are likely your best bet

An Inateck 3.0 USB PCI-E card works the best for issues like this. I've tried a powered USB hub before getting the PCI-E card and it doesn't work that well, doesn't give off enough power. If you have a free PCI-E slot on your MoBo, then the Inateck card could be your solution.

Here is a link to the card: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=inateck+usb+card&qid=1567531402&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Look at this!!!

> This Syba SD-VIA-5U 4 port USB 2.0 pci 2.0 card adds 4 USB 2.0 ports, One shared internal USB 2.0 A port and 4 external USB 2.0 port, to your PCI-capable PC. The PCI USB 2.0 card is a versatile solution that lets you add USB 2.0 connections without having to upgrade the system motherboard. An all-in-one solution, the PCI USB card supports USB 2.0 device connections for full data transfer speeds of up to 480Mbps, and is backward compatible with USB 1.1 devices (max. transfer rate 12Mbps), allowing you to connect any USB device to the computer without having to worry about compatibility issues.

Oh man this looks great...

>Driver CD (for Windows ME, 98SE, Linux and Mac OS)

oh.

However the amazon listing claims

> Plug and Play Installation for Windows 7, Vista and XP

so maybe take that plunge?
Worst case scenario its $10

I also currently use an i7 920. I have an Asus P6T Deluxe (LGA1366). The x58 is an enthusiast class platform with 40 PCIe lanes. So I put in a PCIe USB 3.0 card with 4 ports for $18. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also I got a SATA 3.0 PCIe controller card (will give you AHCI) for $68 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007EM7N70/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I then added 2 Samsung 850 Pro drives onto the new controller as well as a Samsung 950 M.2 SSD through a PCIe card https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018U79YQK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also added 24GB of RAM over the years.

I run an EVGA 1080FTW and game at 2460x1440. I get the following avg framerates. Witcher 3 = 57fps Trine 2 = 76fps, Starcraft 2 = 50fps, Tomb Raider 2013 = 81fps.

Personally I am wanting to replace it with an equal or better system which Skylake is NOT because it only has 16PCIe lanes to the CPU. I'm eagerly waiting for Skylake-E at around middle of 2017, that's the next big enthusiast level upgrade.
Any questions just ask.

Sandybridge is old now, I'm surprised there's even any boards for sale, none of the boards for sale on PCPP have the USB 3.0 header, so you either have to accept you can't use them or look for a second hand motherboard on ebay that does.

Another option if it's important you have them and you don't want to mess around looking for second hand boards that are compatible, is you can just buy an expansion card for USB 3.0, something similiar to this which you just slot into the motherboard and then plug the case headers into that.

Edit: Here's a picture showing the 20 pin connector you want

Ok, it's been a while since I researched this. I can tell you that all the cards work though. If I remember correctly, this card is the best for 4 internal ports. This one if you only have a 1x slot available. And this one if you also want some eSATA ports

I have all these cards in my Hackintosh I'm typing on right now without any drivers. They all support hot swap as well.

Okay, here's what you're going to want to learn.

Mini-SAS comes in two versions (internal - 8087 or external - 8088).

If you want to connect drives internally, you get an LSI card with internal (8i, 16i)

If you want to connect drives externally, you get an LSI card with external (8e, 16e)

Say you have two boxes, you need one external LSI card with 8088 and one passthrough 8088-8087 card.

You'll need 8087 cables to SATA (an 8i card will have two ports for 2 cables where each support 4 sata cables)

You'll need 8088 cables to connect the external cards together

Figure out how many SATA hard drives you want to support.

8e - 8 SATA drives per external card.

16e - 16 SATA drives per external card.

Shopping List for 16 External Hard Drives from one computer to another:

External Card ($30): https://www.ebay.com/itm/LSI-6GB-16-Port-SAS-SATA-HBA-Controller-Card-SAS9201-16e-H3-25379-01G-Grade-A/273461892263?hash=item3fab9954a7:g:CSMAAOSwfkFbm-XI:sc:USPSFirstClass!33175!US!-1

Mini-SAS Passthrough (2 x $30): https://www.amazon.com/CableDeconn-SFF-8088-SFF-8087-Adapter-bracket/dp/B00PRXOQFA

8087 to SATA (4 x $8): https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-SFF-8087-female-Internal-Splitter/dp/B013JP7YI8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AYXPARRHH92MDMM64NJJ

8088 to 8088 (4 x $15): https://www.amazon.com/CableDeconn-SAS26P-SFF-8088-External-Attached/dp/B00S7KTXW6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537045400&sr=1-3&keywords=8088+to+8088

Edit: Please don't hesitate to ask questions before spending money, just make us a diagram showing where your disks are and where you want to hook them up.

I'd recommend buying a USB 3.0 expansion card if your motherboard has a spot for it. This one is suggested by Oculus. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Using a hub serves almost no purpose when it comes to VR because all of the power is still eventually being funneled through one usb port on your computer. That being said, it's possible the Rift and sensors will work with your current set up, but tracking might be a bit spotty using that many 2.0 ports for the sensors.

EDIT: I misread your post a bit. If you're only using 2 sensors and the headset, you should be fine with your set up. I'd recommend plugging the headset into a 2.0 along with one sensor and the other sensor into 3.0. You might need to play around with that part of it, but I think you'll be alright. I'd still recommend the expansion card though.

This one reads 15 8TB drives for me in 36 seconds on Jminer. It has a Molex connection but seems to work pretty well without additional power. 3 powered hubs attached.

4 Port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter w/ 4 Dedicated 5Gbps Channels - UASP - SATA / LP4 Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_u5W5uiQEv2aZ6

The room is 11'x12'
No bed however there is a couch which takes up some valuable space.
I used wall bushings that I sawed partially in half with a dremel so that I could slip the cable into it without having to cut the USB head off. I also had to soak the bushing is boiling water to soften it up a bit for bending. It makes the hole in the ceiling very clean. The hole itself was drilled just wide enough to get the USB head through. I'll post some pics soon of the wires. :)
Here is a list of parts.
Ceiling Mounts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wall Bushings
https://www.amazon.com/Single-Feed-Thru-Bushings-package-CIMPLE/dp/B01EKG1K1W/ref=pd_cp_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01EKG1K1W&pd_rd_r=69VB8HQYJYJ1ABYZDDNH&pd_rd_w=kvX5u&pd_rd_wg=VNk2q&psc=1&refRID=69VB8HQYJYJ1ABYZDDNH
StarTech 4 port PCI Express
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cable Matters Active USB 3.0 16 feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

More info here, including a working PCI-E card:

https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/3zrtgs/psa_your_usb_30_ports_may_not_be_compatible_with/

Basically it looks like Intel and Fresco controllers are good. That throws a lot of motherboards more than a couple years old out of contention.

Amazon links for your convenience:

• US Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA
  
• Canadian Amazon: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00PAFDW3M
  
• UK Amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW
  
  Note: technically any of the powered inateck ones should work since they all use Fresco controllers, but note that the 2 port one only gives you the extra front panel ports if your case supports that. It's safest to get one of the versions with 4 or 5 ports on the back. I can confirm the 5 port+20pin version passes the test for me.

If you're looking for a cheap miner just for fun, I would go for the Antminer U2 such as this one : http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418098493&sr=1-1&keywords=antminer+U2 . They can go up to 2.4Gh/s, which is more than 5 times the 336Mh/s than the one you found for only twice the price. This is what I use and it's pretty neat. I'm sure you can find them for a few bucks cheaper if you shop around.

What question do you have with the SSDs again?

Here is a fourm thread about your exact situation. Here is the card I use.

I would love to help. I noticed there wasnt a huge amount of support threads on this situation. Im really surprised that there isn't more info on it.

You have USB hardware made by VIA, and that's incompatible. You'll need to buy an addon PCI board with USB-3 ports on it.

Something like this - I would suggest the type that has a power plug, so it doesn't draw power for the USB devices through the PCI slot, since not all motherboards live perfectly up to the standards for power requirements.

The board you choose must also have a chipset that is approved by Oculus. Looking at their homepage, it has to use the "Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset."

Actually, on their support page they link specifically to a card that is approved.

----

One more thing - notice the choice of words. "The Nvidia GTX 960 meets or exceeds our inimum system requirements."

That means that if it was any slower, it couldn't run at all - but it doesn't meet their recommended requirements, and it's nowhere near their optimal requirements.

So it's not going to run optimally, or even like recommended.

Assuming you have PCI express 3 in your computer expansion slots, Get a card like this:

LSI Logic SAS 9207-8i Storage Controller LSI00301 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085FT2JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xQ-jDbVZ3R30V

It will feed data connections to 8 sata drives all by itself.

It has 2 sff-8087 ports. Then get the special 'forward breakout' cable. Well two really. One end goes into the sff-8087 port and then it splits out into four sata data cables. Which go into the hard drives of course.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012BPLYJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2T-jDbHFP0FHC

The card can support hardware raid, but fewer and fewer folks do that. After all, hardware raid usually requires identical drives, and us folks at home often have a motley collection of drives of various sizes, speeds, and geometries. So software raid it is. In linux, folks often use freenas or unraid. In windows 10 you can use something called 'storage spaces'. Using raid will allow you to treat all those drives like one device... And have some tolerance for failure (which happens with so many)

Next question.. does your case have room? Do you have enough power connectors?

Pretty much. You'll also need a power supply. I used the build I linked above as inspiration for the two DAS I've built.

I've also added a SAS expander to each DAS to reduce the number of cables running from my server to the DAS. The right expanders can also be daisy chained for nearly unlimited storage.

My most recent DAS build for a total of 12x3.5 HDD slots and 4x2.5 SSD slots:

SAS pcie card 9201-16e

• mATX case [InWin Mana 137]

• 3x5.25 to 5X3.5 HDD adapter [or this one]

• PCIe HDD adapter

• power supply

• fans

• fan controller

• cables [SAS, SAS to SATA forward breakout, SATA power, etc.]

• Optional - PCIe adapter for easier cable connect/disconnects

• Optional - SAS expander

u/Kill_Switch87 just remember that the Oculus devices that need USB 3.0 (the headset, sensor camera stand, and the second stand if you buy Touch later this year) need to be plugged into the motherboard directly (with the below exception).

Your case will have extra USB on the front, but the Oculus devices (excluding the wireless xbox one controller) need to plug into the motherboard.

If you need or want additional USB ports, buy this specific product recommended by Oculus (many others are not right for it):

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

This plugs into your motherboard and will make additional USB 3.0 slots stick out of the PC similar to how your graphics card and motherboard do. You CAN plug Oculus devices into this specific PCI-E USB 3.0 expansion card! You could use it to plug in all of your Oculus devices in a nice neat row together.