(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best network i/o port cards

Not sure if you need Thunderbolt or not.

If not; then please tell me and we can make it a lot cheaper!!

I assume that you've got your own AMPs & DACs for your audio equipment and that you only need USB ports for this?

I did include a x1 Thunderbolt card + a 3 firewire port expansion card.

The firewire card got: 2x 1394B fire wire ports; 1x 1394A fire wire port.

I'll provide you with my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these parts.

I'll also provide you with a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.

Lastly, I'll give out a rationale for each individual part. I have to post this in a reply to this post, since I went over the 10.000 character limitation reddit provides per post.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $159.99 @ Micro Center
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler | $25.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Asus Z97-A/USB 3.1 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $149.99 @ Micro Center
Memory | G.Skill Sniper Gaming Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $62.99 @ Newegg
Storage | PNY CL4111 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $64.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Toshiba 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $144.99 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair Graphite Series 230T Black ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ Micro Center
Power Supply | Antec High Current Gamer 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $67.91 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer | $13.98 @ Newegg
Case Fan | Enermax UCTB12N-R 53.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $7.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Enermax UCTB12N-R 53.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $7.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Enermax UCTB12N-R 53.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $7.99 @ Amazon
Expansion Card| Asus Thunderbolt port| $93.00 @ Amazon
Expansion Card| Syba Low Profile PCI-Express 1394b/1394a (2B1A) Card| $28.00 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $905.79
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-10 02:53 EST-0500 |

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####Learn about cool technology in only a couple minutes!

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What is overclocking?: Here - 2:32 minutes.

What is the difference between i3, i5 & i7?: Here - 4:32
What is the difference between i7 & Xeon?: Here - 7:10
What is hyperthreading?: Here - 4:47
What is Turbo boost?: Here - 4:05
CPU shopping guide: Here - 5:01
GPU shopping guide: Here - 4:11
How many cores do I need for gaming?: Here - 8:18
How many cores do I need for prosuming?: Here - 7:53
RAM speeds: Here - 4:37
DDR3 vs DDR4: Here - 8:01
USB Type C: Here - 4:30
What are benchmarks?: Here - 5:21
Pre-built vs building your own?: Here - 6:04
Optical vs laser mouse: Here - 2:10
SSD vs HDD: Here - 4:05
Radiators explained: Here - 4:34
What is resolution?: Here - 5:22
Different panel types: Here - 2:29
Monitor refresh-rate: Here - 5:46
What is Free-sync?: Here - 5:29
What is G-sync?: Here - 5:52
What is Shadowplay?: Here - 3:59
Case air pressure: Here - 5:21
Case fan orientation: Here - 3:42
What is a NAS?: Here - 5:06
Raid 0, 1 & 10: Here - 3:11
Raid 5 & 6: Here - 2:35
What PSU to buy?: Here - 5:12
What does 80+ mean?: Here - 3:02

Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great youtube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.

---

####Guides

---

Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.

How to build an Intel 115x socket PC? This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short. It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well. I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.

How to install a 115x CPU? Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
How to install thermal compound? Now, to be clear! Every single heatsink will come with its own thermal compound. Even the intel/AMD stock heatsinks. So there is no need to buy this.
It's only recommended to buy when you either have very bad temperatures or when you want to overclock to the extreme. The temperature difference between the best and the "worst" thermal compound is a couple degrees Celsius.
Be careful though! More is not better! It needs to have enough, but too much will dramatically increase the temperatures of the CPU. Thermal compound helps with the contact of the cooler + the CPU. The CPU + heatsink both have microscopically small gaps, which the thermal compound fills up to let the heat get too the heatsink.
How to install RAM? It's very simple these days. For DDR4 it's pretty much the same.
How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive? You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
How to set up your SSD & HDD? This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10. He does talk about a few things that aren't very important, but it's good to know.
* How to use Ninite? This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.

Here is a gift from me to you. I know you have the 3rd sensor but the rest of the information is good. This is my setup and what I recommend to friends and family. Check it out.

1st GET A THIRD SENSOR IF YOU WANT TRUE ROOMSCALE "they are on backorder at the moment"

2nd Get three of these for your sensors to make sure they can reach anywhere you want them too. USB 3.0 is better than 2.0 because the cameras run at a higher resolution and fps thereby increasing tracking and with your USB add-on cards this will be the perfect setup.: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3rd Get 2 of these to completely isolate all of you VR components from the sometimes janky unreliable USB ports on A LOT of motherboards that cannot supply enough power and/or bandwidth for all of the cameras and HMD to work properly I chose this card because it only has two ports and both of those ports work no matter if you plug in 2 sensors or 1 sensor and the HMD. The Inatek card DOES have issues for somewhere some ports work and others do not and are still only being able to run 2 sensors off the Inatek card and having to run the HMD and 3rd sensor off the motherboard. The Orico card just works and you don't have to think about experimenting with ports just plug everything into the two Orico cards in any configuration and go. Also use the default Windows drivers whether you go with the Inatek or Orico card only upgrade after trying the defaults drivers without success: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AVSN2YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4th This is optional. One of these for extending your HMD HDMI cable by 15ft for a total of 28ft: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D5EUD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5th This repeater is required to make the HDMI cable above work, but with this repeater, the extension is flawless: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6th To extend the Rift HMD USB I use the USB 2.0 Active Extension Monoprice Repeater Cable that comes with the 3rd sensor it is 16ft long, works perfectly. Then I used a small piece of electrical tape every 6 inches from the HMD to the PC to make the extended HMD cable one piece leaving about 2 ft of cable loose at the end to be able to plug in wherever I want.

I did a lot of research bought the Inateck and Orico USB add-on cards, multiple active USB extensions, multiple different HDMI adapters and extensions of varying lengths, Display port to HDMI adapters, DVI to HMDI adapters, and did all the experimentation and testing required to make all this work. The list I listed above works every time on multiple systems in different environments, rooms, and households.
If you need clarification on anything and/or want more information, feel free to respond or message me. I will gladly help.

I would definitely avoid that hub. With 7 external ports the internal design will be two USB host controllers daisy chained together so 4 of those ports will at a minimum have to go through 3 host controllers to send data back to the PC. Very risky and prone to issues which will be explained below.

Apologies for the wall of text but it is all quite important to explain why USB hubs are not the best idea for a number of reasons. Only go the hub route if you have no other choice like you have a laptop and a PCI card if not an option. If you have a desktop and free PCI slots then grab one of the PCI cards listed at the end of this post.

USB 3.0 Hubs

The main concern with hubs is that there is an additional USB controller in the chain and if one of those controllers is not compatible then you might have tracking issues. The issue with compatibility is VR needs low latency and high bandwidth which is required for good tracking.

So you have something like this using a hub.

PC -> PCI Bus -> USB Controller -> Hub -> USB Controller -> Sensor.

I put together this image on the weekend to explain it to someone else - https://imgur.com/jI6Istl

If anything in that chain is sub standard you have issues. If you have good USB Controllers in that chain you wont see issues. Just remember a quality hub is only as good as the USB port on your PC you plug it into.

It is also recommended to get a powered USB hub if you have to go the hub route. People sometimes encounter not just a bandwidth/latency bottleneck but a power bottleneck. Importantly some PC USB ports can't push out enough power to power all the devices plugged into the hub. Get a powered hub to avoid this possibility.

Below are two brands Anker and Amazon Basics which are the hubs I commonly see people say have worked for the Rift. The 7 port one will have daisy chained USB controllers internally but people have recommended it so they must be good quality.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

or

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Adapter-Devices/dp/B00PBZX0OM


PCI Cards

Here are the cards that Oculus have recommended (I have personally tested the top two cards) .The blog posts at the end of this post might clear up why hubs are hit and miss for some people due to data/latency bottlenecks that might occur.

StarTek 2 port card (1 ASMedia controller) – Cheaper StarTek option that could be used for 2 sensors or a sensor and headset.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HT6K3Q

Supported Inatek 4 port card (1 Fresco controller) – Don't get the 5 or 7 port card as the design is not really suited for Rift sensors as it has daisy chained controllers in the design.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

Use the Inatek for your two front facing cameras and nothing else. Plug your third or fourth USB 2.0 camera and Rift HMD into your motherboard.

Supported StarTek 4 port card (2 Controllers) – Optional middle tier PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to two Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HJZE9VK

Supported StarTek 4 port card (4 Controllers) – Optional top of the range PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to four Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S

Both 4 port StarTek cards are pricey and a bit more than is actually required. You could achieve the same thing with 2x four port Inatek cards.

More reading for why USB controllers are important and how you should connect sensors

Oculus put together some blog posts last year explaining best practices. Parts 2 and 3 of Oculus tracking posts explain the USB subsystems and how to get the best config.

• Part 1: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-tips-for-setting-up-a-killer-vr-room/
  
• Part 2: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-balancing-bandwidth-on-usb/
  
• Part 3: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-identifying-host-controllers/
  
• Part 4: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-extra-equipment/
  
  Finally here is my setup and the placement of USB devices amongst all the USB controllers. https://imgur.com/a/fqgRP5p

I may come back and edit this if I mess something up, but I'll try to be as granular as possible and give links because I sure wish I would have had someone help me when I was building this. I will say this, I looked for these items over time and waited until I found good deals.


Case:[ Corsaire Air 540] (http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-Series-Airflow-CC-9011030-WW/dp/B00D6GINF4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421547180&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+air+540) - This is a large case. However, I have built many PC's and this is the best case I've ever used. All of your cables are hidden, so you have a very clean build with very easy access.

Proc: i7 4790K - I got this on sale for $279. Although I don't need to, I can very easily use the ASRock to overclock to 4.5 ghz straight from the OS.

Video: EVGA GTX 760 SC (I got this at Microcenter for $230.00) - As mentioned, I run three 1900x1200 montors with this. For games - I can run anything (to date) at 1900x1200 on ultra when the Proc os overclocked, unless it is just coded crappy. Lately I'be been playing ESO and Wildstar, but I've also done Bioshock Infinite and The Vanashing of Ethan Carter (beautiful game) as well.

Ram: Crucial Ballistix Elite 16gb - See my comment below on ram.

Motherboard: ASRock z97 Motherboard - Believe it or not, I got this for $86 at Microcenter.

Firewire Card: Syba FW Card with TI Chipset - This is low profile, but comes with a full size bracket. Works great with the Focusrite Saffire Pro 40.

OS: Windows 8.1 Professional

PT Version: PT11 (Latest Build)

Audio Interface: Focusrite Saffire Pro 40 - Make sure you get the latest software for this and run PT as administrator. I had to do this before the Midi would work right through the Saffire.

Proc Cooling: Corsair Hydro 105 - Do your research. There are a lot of cooling options. I had this in a separate machine and really like it.

Case Fans: Corsair Air Series AF140 LED Quiet Edition High Airflow Fans - One again, there are a lot of options with fans. These matched my case and are relatively quiet. Iknow the Noctua stuff is really awesome too.

Power Supply: Corsair HX850 - This might be overkill. I got this because I game some on this system and figured I would add another GTX 760 at some point. Also, not sure you need the HX. You might be able to go with a lower end PSU.

Video Monitors: Two of these are Lenova which I already had and are not included in the build price. The other, I just got and it beats the Lenovos significantly. It is an ASUS PA248Q 24-Inch LED-Lit IPS Professional Graphics Monitor. I use these large monitors because my eyes are bad from years of IT work, staring into monitors. Imagine that. This would be overkill for many as they take up a lot of space.

HD1: Crucial MX100 512 gb SSD. Everybody gets Samsung, and even I have one in my purchased gaming rig. However, before you do that, read this review from Tom's Hardware on the MX100. I'm completely sold on this SSD. I got this for $180 on a Newegg sale.

HD2: [Seagate 3tb 7200](Seagate Desktop 3 TB HDD SATA 6 Gb/s NCQ 64MB Cache 7200 RPM 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive ST3000DM001) - It is a platter HD I put my sessions on, nothing more. I've never seen a slow down.

A couple of other notes.

1. I use a service SOS Online Backup to back up my sessions so in case of a drive failure I don't lose anything.
   
   
2. If I could change anything about this - I would have bought a motherboard with Thunderbolt. However, I think it was a $200 price difference at the time, so I stayed with my budget and I've had no issues with the firewire.
   
   
3. I'm a singer songwriter, so this setup geared for me. I think it would work for just about anyone, but I've seen some of the mixing engineers on this forum say you may need more ram if you ar running huge sessions. The biggest song I run is probably about 25 tracks (including buses), few of which would be simultaneous, and I've never used more than 1/2 my ram.
   
   If you have anymore questions let me know. I had this info an a word doc from when I was planning - so I'm glad I was able to pass it on. I hope this helps.
   

My list for mobile/portable operating would look something like this...

For a man portable setup I could carry in a pack, the highest capacity LiFePO4 battery I could afford.

Otherwise, if I'm driving out to a fixed operating site, then the biggest AGM deep cycle battery I would care to lug from the car a short distance to the operating site.

A lightweight computer with good battery life so I don't have to worry about external power for it out in the field. I'm not really a Mac guy, but I'd probably bring my Macbook Pro for this task.

The TS-480 doesn't require a Signalink/Rigblaster type interface for digital operation, but you will need the following items to interface to your computer...

• USB to serial converter. Don't buy the Prolific chipset garbage, save yourself the frustration and spend the few bucks for something with an FTDI chipset.
  
  
• Kenwood PG-5H data cable set. You can also make this if you want, Your TS-480 should have shipped with a plastic baggie with the connectors in it to make this (pinouts are detailed towards the back of the manual). Or, you can get them on ebay. I bought mine mainly because hate soldering stuff to DIN connector pins.
  
  
• Serial cable, straight through, female ends. Cheap and readily avaialble.
  
  
• If the laptop you're using doesn't have separate speaker out/mic in jacks, then a cheap USB audio adapter.
  
  The filters aren't truly necessary and the unit is pretty frequency stable without the TCXO, but they sure are nice to have. If you were going to put a filter in it, I would recommend the 500Hz CW filter. It comes in handy when you're trying to zero in on a particular signal or block adjacent strong signals. The DSP filtering is generally adequate, but a strong enough signal is going to swamp the AGC and that's when the crystal filters come in handy to notch that out.
  
  If you do get the TCXO, don't waste $110 on the Kenwood SO-3. The cheap Chinese TCXO's work just as well and can be had for much cheaper. I got mine from ebay for 20 bucks or so, but now you can even get them on Amazon with Prime shipping and everything.
  
  Antenna choice is highly variable. Out here in the deserts of New Mexico, you don't find much in the way of trees, so a wire antenna deployed up into a tree is out and a self supporting vertical is in. I generally pack an MFJ 1979 telescoping vertical whip with a clamping antenna mount or a collapsable fiberglass pole that I can hoist up a length of wire with. Your own situation, available terrain, bands you want to work are going to be the determining factors here.
  
  This page has some useful notice on power draw of the TS-480 with some operating scenarios and battery sizing options. A lightweight, power sipping QRP rig the TS-480 is not, but it's still very usable for portable operations.
  
  

I have used this one before: https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-FPX-001-Controller-Controls-Independent/dp/B00DP9WRZY

And it works great! You can hook up to 4 fans to it and to control the speed just turn the knob.

Then you will wanna buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-SATA-IDE-Adapter-CB-ISA225-U3/dp/B01E7EPKUO

So the fan controller has a MOLEX adapter for power. The data to usb has a MOLEX to power cable in the box (I’ve had a few and the vantech one that I listed should have an inline power button).

I’ve tried splicing the cables and although that works this is far far easier and effective. I hope you see this before you buy to many other solutions because I personally think this is the easiest.

Good luck and happy growing :)

Yeah, at least an SSD is worth it, and maybe some other things. You just need to make sure you're getting the right things so you don't spend too much and they fit in the machine. It can handle Adobe CS apps and it's more cost effective than repairing your MBP or getting a new one.

SSD: get a more current blade style SSD with M.2 port at any capacity. This form factor because you could use this for something else a few years down the road. And it's PCIe, so max speed and faster than on SATA. 128 GB is enough for macOS and the apps, or a bigger one you can/want to afford.
Then an adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lycom-DT-120-PCIe-Adapter-Support/dp/B00MYCQP38
The adapter piggybacks the SSD and you hook it up to one of the PCIe slots. There are 4 slots numbered from bottom to top, the GPU will be in the bottom one (Slot 1), use Slot 2 for the SSD, it's faster than Slots 3 and 4 at the top.

RAM: I'd say 16 gigs is enough for this machine. For very large Photoshop files 32 gigs might be helpful, but only marginally. Mac Pros are picky when it comes to RAM, here's some info: http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/mac_pro/faq/mac-pro-early-2008-how-to-install-ram-backwards-compatible-with-older-memory.html
https://support.apple.com/HT205043

CPU: one of the CPUs in the Wiki link above. But I wouldn't do it. Could add more performance but you need the know how and tools to flash the Mac Pro firmware, otherwise the machine wouldn't recognize the new CPU.

GPU: another potential minefield: http://forums.macrumors.com/threads/frequently-asked-questions-about-nvidia-pc-non-efi-graphics-cards.1440150/
Requires flashing of the GPU as well so they work and you never know if it's surviving an update to macOS.
But Apple officially sold the ATI Radeon HD 5770 and 5780 as upgrade kits for the Mac Pros. These are officially supported. Funny enough Googling these cards I mostly see hits about the older Mac Pros. Saw this link: http://www.apple.com/shop/question/answers/readonly/will-early-2008-mac-pro-owners-be-able-to-use-the-ati-radeon-hd-5770/QDDDH2T2JF44XHHAD
Now finding a 5770 or 5780 on eBay is definitely worth it, will add a substantial amount of performance.
Or any other card that's officially Mac compatible, like the GeForce GTX 950 or 960 and Nvidia's web drivers (install drivers before adding the card!).

I/O: something to consider, adding USB 3.0 is worth it. This card is officially Mac Pro compatible: https://www.amazon.com/Ports-Inateck-PCI-E-Expansion-Version/dp/B00I027GPC/

Btw, here's a patch to get Sierra onto the machine: http://dosdude1.com/sierrapatch.html

The Tyan S7012 are a good build. I make a few ZFS file servers out of them every year, but few notes.

-They originally came with series 5500 intel support only. To get 5600 support, you will have to upgrade the firmware. So I recommend you buy a pair of L5520 CPUs when you get the board, they are super cheap quad core CPUs that a pair sells for around $5 now.

-The South bridge gets hot, some boards come with high profile heat sinks, but not most of them. If your build is not in a high air flow case consider placing a 40mm fan on the heat sink. This will help with system stability.

-It comes with only 5 PCIe x8 open ended slots, (some are only x4) It is nice since you can place larger cards into the slots (all PCIe should be open ended) but be careful in slot one, the rear components may stop you from placing a large card in them.


>passmark of 26,104

No wonder you need water cooling, a 150W CPU needs that. Over all nice. Far more than I would spend, but I'm a bit on the cheap side.

I Purchased https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Hyper-M-2-x16-Card/dp/B0753JTJTG, for the heck of it. If it does not suit my needs I figured I can return or resell it and get most of my money back. My main issue is going to be installing it. Both my PCIe 3.0 x16 slots are full of video cards, and my only other option is the x4 slot that my NVMe card is currently sitting in. I am guessing a I may end up upgrading my board soon or I will most likely pull out my sound card and end up installing a PCI one instead. I have a few LGA 2011 boards, but I just spent a week building my current setup and I don't want to rip it apart. -_-

After some research it looks like it would be better performance overall if the card was PCI-E 2.0 x2 or x4. The one you linked is x1 and will definitely work but all 4 hard drives connected to it will share the same PCI-E x1 lane (assuming they were all in use at the same time). Looks like this card may be better maybe? -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ9T264/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_99ADzbJY3M7A2 or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ESFEI2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_EjBDzbPASSG90

My use case scenario for this server is just to install Unraid and storing several TBs of media for plex streaming (plex server located on same network but different machine btw). So, that being said - in your opinion does the speed difference there even matter for the most part? The drives will all be WD RED. I may add an SSD or two for caching down the road but I would connect those straight to the onboard SATAs if I went that route.

Thanks in advance for helping with all this and sorry if I missed something obvious.

I speak only from what I read. I am not an ~editor.

Approximate numbers, yes - or depending on budget & lanes available, much more.

Kudos to you for getting it. Usually I am called mad, before they rush off and buy a 16 lane intel that precludes nvme raid.

IMO if you google vid edit forums, you will find many do the same. It just hasnt sunk in yet for most tho.

Yes, I hear there are many who could use ~unlimited (512TB) gpu memory/memory address space.

What do you expect from 120GB/s $66 nvmeS & pcie2 ?:) - that's bargain basement, but damn good for the money & frugal use of usually scarce lanes.

A significant bump in write speed can be had by using the same model in 240GB ~$110 form.

~Only TR & Epyc are generous with pcie lanes & allow reasonable freedom for larger arrays. It has 64 pcie3 lanes, native bios bootable raid for up to 7 nvme devices for ~25GB/s read. (see db8haur youtube clip of TR w/ 8x 960 pro raid for 28GB/s using the asus card below (take away = on TR, expect ~linear scaling and little overhead - you get ~straight multiples of the individual drive's rated speeds when you stripe them on TR using pcie 3))

12.8GB/s officially for ddr3 1600, but sounds optimistic -
30-40GB/s sounds right for a good modern ddr4 ryzen, & 40-50GB/s for a TR, but again, don't quote me, check for yourself.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DDR3_SDRAM

A sweet spot imo, is to saturate 16 lanes of pcie2 bandwidth for both read and write, which the above lane thrifty pcie2 bargain rig more than saturates in read (even 3 drives would), and approaches (75%) in write.

If your app works as well~ w/ your gpu set as 8 lane pcie3 as 16 lane pcie3, then you have nothing to gain from faster system dram cache over the nvme raid 0 array.

Its fairly logical that this may be the case - the task usually takes longer to process/render than to load the data, so 8GB/s of data from the system should keep the gpu busy.

NB that your drive selection focus is different.

You dont want size, you want speed, especially the weaker write speed, and cheap cos you want multiples to run in parallel.

Storage is a separate issue.

IMO, it doesnt have to be all things to all men. It is dedicated to writing large chunks of data, fast, and should be formatted optimally for this alone.

All the old saws about risk of raid are rot in this case - its a scratch drive little different to volatile dram, the system fully expects the contents to be lost, & ensures no damage is done by a failure/power outage.

Whatever the array size, it will be huge vs Dram.

A major over riding consideration is the parts dont tell the whole story, which is that hbcc working as intended, should intelligently anticipate reads and prefetch into higher level cache, and delay writes to enhance performance.

Video editing sounds to have eminently predictable data flows to me.

above products links etc:

ASRock Ultra Quad M.2 Card

https://www.amazon.com/Asus-M-2-X4-Card-flexibility/dp/B017YUCAXS

https://techadict.com/shop/electronincs/memory/corsair-force-series-mp500-120gb-m-2-nvme-pcie-gen-3-x4-ssd/

First, let's talk about the Aorus Master and its storage options.

• There are CPU lanes and chipset lanes. The chipset has a maximum bandwidth around 7.1 GB/s upstream (x4 PCIe 4.0, after encoding and overhead) which is sufficient for a RAID-0/stripe of 3.0 drives. However, drives over the chipset will have a latency penalty. Also, other devices share this bandwidth (USB, ethernet, audio, SATA, etc).
  
• There is one M.2 socket directly connected to the CPU which runs at x4 PCIe 4.0, which is fine for a single 3.0 drive as well.
  
• With a GPU in the primary PCIe slot, you can bifurcate to 8x/8x with the second PCIe slot running 4x/4x for two NVMe drives on an appropriate adapter.
  
• With no GPU, you can run the primary slot as 4x4 for a quad-adapter for up to four NVMe drives, although overhead is such that you will be limited to less than the sum of their speeds.
  
• It is possible also to run an adapter in the third x16 PCIe slot, over the chipset, with mix-and-match RAID, but this is unnecessary as the Aorus Master has two M.2 sockets over the chipset already.
  
  It's ideal to have both drives on the same side (CPU lanes, or chipset) in addition to CPU being preferable (lower latency). You can boot to this with EZRAID/UEFI regardless of configuration. In any case, it is possible to use all 24 PCIe 4.0 lanes for storage: 4x4 from GPU, 1x4 from dedicated M.2, 1x4 from chipset. These work fine in 3.0 mode as well. So you would likely either run both drives over the chipset with the secondary and tertiary M.2 sockets, or both over CPU with an adapter - I suggest this (my affiliate link to the item on Amazon here).
  
  With that many writes you do want a drive like the EVO Plus, absolutely. The E12/E16 drives have a better warranty for writes (TBW/DWPD) but in my opinion it'll be easier to deal with the Samsung drives in a stripe; the E16 drives are not made for steady state, and the E12s lose speed at 2TB.

A car adapter? Mine came with one. As for the power supply id recommend this


Here is what i bought to track with it.
PC interface Cable
Serial Adapter
And finally this, but this is optional to you. Youll probably eventually want to image from your backyard, and if you do youll want this. AC Adapter

Another thing, Unluckily for me and for you, the mount does not come with a polar scope. Do some research to what kind you want, but I got this one

Other than that, Good luck! If you ever want some real time advice come check out the chat room under the useful links tab on the side of the subreddit! Chances are I'll be there, or one of the AP gurus.

Have you already bought the fans? If not I’d say go with the AC Infinity MULTIFAN S3, Quiet 120mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling ones by ac infinity. They have a controller in line and it’s plug and play, no secondary power sources to power the controller to go back to the fan.

I originally got this fan controller with the two recommended buys which are the 4 pack of fans and a molex power supply.

This will let you have 4 fans all controllable. So you can always have two buckets side by side in the future and have them share a fan controller. That is what I was going to do, but ended up going with the prewired because of the fan cfu between then and easy I’d install.

Hope that helps. Sorry it didn’t use your adapter, but you can always use that for a 1-2 meters of led strip if it’s 2A

Op got me curios and we can into the same thing:

>You could use a PCIE expander card like this Asus Hyper M.2 x16 Card Expansion NV Me M.2 Drives and Speed up to 128Gbps Components https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753JTJTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aLQ-BbAQ4JE2Y

I wanted to point out that this adapter is designed to be used with Intel VROC on X299 Series Motherboard models. Here are the ASUS supported motherboards:

• ROG RAMPAGE VI EXTREME
  
• ROG RAMPAGE VI APEX
  
• ROG STRIX X299-XE GAMING
  
• ROG STRIX X299-E GAMING
  
• PRIME X299-DELUXE
  
• PRIME X299-A
  
• TUF X299 MARK 1
  
• TUF X299 MARK 2
  
  EDIT: From the Amazon link, a great comment found in a review about his adapter. Things to consider with the motherboard & CPU:
  
  >This cards has a lot of variables that need to be meet before it will work.
  
  >1. 16 pci express lanes is a lot. Most CPU's will not have enough for this, and two GPU's for example. As that is 48 pci lanes needed for 2 GPU's and one of these cards fully loaded. So lets say you buy a super expensive I9 Intel Processor. Well that CPU only has 44 pci lanes. Meaning at max you can only get 3 of the M.2 cards to work in this device while still having two GPU's running all 16 of there lanes.
  
  >2. Mother boards are deceptive. While they may on average have 4 slots that will fit a x16 card. They do not all have 16 CPU express lanes assigned to them. Most often only the first slot (the one closest to the CPU socket), and the third slot actually have 16 lanes. The other two slots will only have 8. Even on high end boards. Meaning that only two of the M.2 cards will be recognized when plugged in there. So check your motherboard manuals first.
  
  >3. Intel requires you to also buy a VROC key. This is not required on AMD. I have seen some people blame that on this card.
  
  >4. Sense the speed of this card is heavily dependent on the slot you put it in, and the CPU running the system. Is why it says you can get up to 128Gbps. Realistically though... Unless you really know what you are doing you won't hit those speeds. But it will still be faster then what your used too. Most SSD's are limited by the sata cable speed, and other things. Which won't be anywhere as fast as m.2 drives raided.
  
  >5. This tech is still new. So not all motherboards support it. Actually most don't. While the card itself doesn't need any drivers to run. The MB and CPU both need to support NVMe raid. Or your better off getting a single m.2 card.
  
  OP's desired use though sound different from you and myself might be thinking of. He wants a small NAS but has not stated his intended use yet. Where-as this sparked an interest in how fast could one possibly get a NAS to transfer data. I think in this setup one would saturate their network long before R/W speeds of their arrays, lmao.

It's not unreasonable... although I would first try and see if you can get your current setup working with the new video card... it should be pretty straight forward and if your current build can work with the new hardware it'll make switching back and forth much easier... even if your new vanilla install goes perfectly right away, a clean install can take awhile to get everything back up and running the way you like.

Another suggestion (if you have 5.25" drive bay) is to get a drive switcher this will allow you to physically disconnect power to all your drives... so you just shutdown, turn off the ones on your current system, turn on the new one to tinker, and then boot up again. Your known working system is safe. (I also use it for OS upgrades or if I wanted to boot Windows)

Sure!

This is all in a Fractal Design - Define R6 USB-C case. I replaced all but one fan with Noctua PWM fans so I could fully take advantage of the fan controller that comes with the case and ultimately have a very quiet box.

This was originally going to be just a NAS box using more "server-y" components (ASRack X470D4U mobo, ECC memory) but I ended up not liking the mother board so I just threw my desktop internals in here for the time being.

Motherboard: Gigabyte Z370 Aorus Gaming 7

CPU: Intel i7 8700k

Memory: 64GB DDR4 2667MHz

In the PCI slots I have a Intel Dual Gigabyte NIC (for SR-IOV capabilities), Qnap Quad M.2 Card, refurbished LSI 9211-8i SAS card, 4 port USB 3.0 Controller (so I can hook up my Mac VM to my KVM switch box), and a Radeon RX 560 so I can pass it through to my Mac VM.

Because this is r/datahoarder, here are my drives...

I am using (2) 1TB NVMe drives for my OS drive. I am using md raid for the first two partitions /boot and /boot/efi. The third partitions are in a btrfs mirror and contain sub volumes for / and /home

I am using another (2) 1TB NVMe drives in a zfs mirror for zpool-virt which has datasets for docker and libvirt so they are on speedy drives.

I have (2) 1TB HDD that were my old pool for containers, but I don't use them anymore. Everything has been migrated to zpool-virt so these will go away as I expand my 10TB vdevs.

I have (4) 4TB drives in pair of mirrors setup as zpool0 which I use as my main storage for docker volumes, plex, time machine backups, network storage, etc.

Now that I have put in (4) 10TB drives this will become my main pool and I'll migrate things over once I put in a fifth 10TB drive later this month. I haven't decided if my ultimate goal is to have pool of (2) 5-drive raidz1 vdevs, or a single pool of 10-drives in raidz2. My current thinking is single raidz2 and then hope that raidz expansion comes soon enough that I am able to decommission my 4TB drives and replace them with 10TB ones.

I also have a 1TB NVMe that I used to passthrough to my Mac VM but don't really need to anymore now that I have my VM images on SSDs. Since I have one last remaining open NVMe slot I am planning to buy another 1TB NVMe and make them into a mirror and add them to zpool-virt. But I was also toying with the idea of putting in an Octane drive into the open slot so I could have a fast SLOG. So who really knows.

Wow, that's a ton! This is super useful info, thank you.

Would something like this work as the USB 3 AIC?

I bought the Startech dual controller model here:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00HJZE9VK

It makes the 3 sensors + headset run in usb 3.0 mode, but i still get the occasional usb disconnect sound in windows which I can't seem to fix. Sometimes the headset will show as usb 2.0 and a restart resets it to 3.0. Yet usb 2.0 works just fine on the headset.

I regret not getting the 4 usb controller version as it seems the sensors likes having their own usb controller, but my budget for VR was already running out after the third sensor was purchased.

As the other commenter stated the inatek card should do fine and is cheap, but it seems to be a hit and miss and require more fiddling to get working. A lot can definitely tell their stories about this on /r/oculus

This is a huge deal for the rift as Vive is so easy to set up for room scale, and the added price in whatever USB card is still those $25-80 more expensive than what you first want to pay.

Using the third sensor in usb 2.0 mode works great if you have a small play area, and no additional usb card should be needed here.

This is expensive, but is really cool, with animated eyes. Prolly too expensive to put all over your yard tho... Here's their guide. (Adafruit has some nice tutorials...)

You can get cheap enough to do it in bulk (for the rolls all over your yard) by having an arduino clone with a Li-Ion battery and a short LED strip, or two bright individual LEDs. You would program the clones, and set them outside. If you use basic LEDs, you can control brightness (via PWM) and color of the entire strip.

For example, here's 5 arduino clones for $19.

For your purpose, I don't think you need individually addressable LEDs but, if you wanted to get fancy, here's one for $8.

Post some photos of your version when you're done!

> This works fantastically! Thank you! I don't know why I didn't think of this. The audio is crystal clear now.

Glad that worked for you.

> Plus I don't have to pass through specific USB devices, so if I want to change out the keyboard or mouse or connect something else (USB flash drive) I can do that without rebooting or modifying the vm configuration!

I find this type of setup to be most convenient myself due to this behavior. It's annoying to have to "intercept" USB devices at the host and re-route them to the guest, when you can easily dedicate individual ports for that purpose.

> Now to get a USB 3 card for this system. :)

My best and only suggestion would be the Highpoint RocketU 1144D. Each port on the card is a separate PCIe device, allowing for PCI-based USB connectivity for up to four different VMs simultaneously. It's also well-known among early adopters of VFIO setups to be insanely compatible. I theorize that it's a combination of the PCIe switches they use, and the fact that it's fully bus-powered, allowing this card to respond favorably to software resets performed by the host.

For the sound card, I did not include it as I am not an expert (just know that M-audio and Terratec are good brands) and because pcpartpicker does not have 'real' audio cards. I saved you $200 for it and urge you to go to your nearest audio store with this budget where knowledgeable people will be happy to help you. Firewire is also not included on motherboards anymore, and you'll have to buy something like this (again, not on PC part picker).

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor | $279.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI H97 Guard-Pro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $59.99 @ Newegg
Memory | PNY XLR8 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $127.18 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $94.99 @ NCIX US
Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card | $254.99 @ NCIX US
Case | BitFenix Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $39.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $89.98 @ OutletPC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $992.10
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-08 06:55 EST-0500 |

Core i7 will be useful for demanding audio applications, I'm a bit less sure you need 16GB of RAM, but as the i7 will allow you to run a lot of things at the same time I'd prefer to be safe. Concerning gaming, the R9 290 can handle anything current in 1080p. If you find a cheaper sound card, you may want to go for more storage, or an SSD to install your programs (go for crucial or Samsung). Tell me if you need something really different, i'll try to find another compromise.

I'd be very interested to know if you can get 4 sensors running at USB 3.0 on one card (just as a test), I was able to run 3 sensors from one card as long as I connected the Rift to a different card or motherboard USB port, but it wasn't very reliable so I wouldn't recommend either setup, best play it safe and stick to 2 sensors per card, to try and balance the load evenly.

Also, before everyone runs out to buy a second card, they should check to see if their motherboard already includes an ASMedia USB 3.1 "Gen 2" controller (ASM1142). I've had no problem running two sensors from these using the newer drivers, unfortunately one of the ports is often routed to a Type-C port, but you could use a converter dongle for that one. There are also a lot of PCIE add-in cards available based on this controller, but only a few have two Type A ports, this is the one I posted about 3 weeks ago:

https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Expansion-Adapter-external-Connector/dp/B01AVSN2YG

It seems to be a popular choice now, some people have been reporting better results than with the Inateck card, but if you have applied the power-management fixes in the script then there shouldn't actually be much real-world difference on most motherboards.

Would this work? Or is there a certain one you would recommend?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F3DM6C/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000F9Q3PM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0MMQNCVZ19FE7WZEV8HH
I mean I guess with this whole build, if you were getting it for yourself, what would be your number one concern? (ex: maybe you wanted a SSD or a better mobo).

Thanks again, this is extremely helpful

You need 2 cards for 2 SSD's. This card only has an x4 length connector, and there's also only 1 slot on the card (how were you expecting to insert 2 drives?) You can still do what you're trying to with multiple cards, since your mobo has 3 x16 slots, but have you considered just getting a single larger drive?

Cards that support multiple drives exist, however they require the motherboard to support PCIe bifurcation, which is mostly only available on high end workstation motherboards. If your mobo doesn't support this, then the best you can do is separate cards for every drive.

> There isn't really 16 lane version of u.2

And there aren't any controller chips that support more than 4x NVMe / PCIe 3.0 lanes that I'm aware of. Basically, SSDs can only support 4x lanes. Even Optane is only 4x lanes.

RAIDed arrays of 4x 4xlane is pretty nifty. But that's utilizing the M.2 form factor more so than anything else.

> This adds a bit to latency.

NVMe SSDs have an IOPS rating of 100,000, or roughly 1us of latency (best case scenario... and that's a big stretch). Cable-length and buffers have latency of 0.005 us, or roughly on the order of nanoseconds. Its a complete non-issue.

The only one working on breaking down the latency issue is Intel Optane with their DIMM-based SSD arrays. Breaking the microsecond barrier probably will require something crazy, like Gen-Z or whatever. For now, with PCIe based technology, U.2 and M.2 are sufficient. No real point getting PCIe SSDs... its cheaper and more effective to join the mass production of the industry and support U.2 and M.2.

You could use a PCIE expander card like this Asus Hyper M.2 x16 Card Expansion NV Me M.2 Drives and Speed up to 128Gbps Components https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753JTJTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aLQ-BbAQ4JE2Y

Find a motherboard and chipset that has a lot of PCIE lanes and supports bifurcation (so those 4xNVMe drives can split up the shared PCIE slot).

I've also thought about doing this just because.....well because it would just be fun to see how fast you could make it. Lolz

I'm not seeing a fan header but this shows what they look like. They do make fan controllers that you can buy that can either be manually controlled or software controlled. Something like this will fit in a 3.5 inch drivebay and offers manual control of up to four fans.

It was my idea so I guess I will go first.

Sonnet Allegro Pro USB 3.0 PCIe card - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10

Don't watch too much LTT any more but caught this one on a recent video. It is a USB card with 4 ports on 4 seperate controllers.
Could come in quite useful especially where speed or direct connectablitly is concerned. Though hot plug support is kind of added in recent versions of KVM, it isn't quite ready for seamless or bug free use yet.

Yes, they are. A SATA card simply provides more ports so that more drives can be connected individually. It's possible to set up software RAID, but that can be a pain and is slower. A RAID card actually controls the RAID setup with its own chip. That card you linked would NOT work in a PCI-E slot; it is a slow PCI card which is different.

This card is basically the same as the other Amazon link, but it adds support for RAID 0 and RAID 1. Anything that supports more RAID levels will likely be more expensive. This is a good example.. It supports RAID 0, 1, 5, 10, 50, and JBOD.

Ok, it's been a while since I researched this. I can tell you that all the cards work though. If I remember correctly, this card is the best for 4 internal ports. This one if you only have a 1x slot available. And this one if you also want some eSATA ports

I have all these cards in my Hackintosh I'm typing on right now without any drivers. They all support hot swap as well.

4770k + 1070 is what have on my other PC haha. Great combo those two.

Ok so I/O, the Asus blows the Taichi out of the water. Significantly more USB ports with more USB 3.2 and 3.1.
Taichi does have 3 M.2, but keep in mind, if you use the 3rd (Bottom) M.2 on the Taichi, it will disable the PCIeX16_3 (The third PCI X16).


Both boards support Bifurcation on the PCIX16_2, so you can run a M.2 Adapter. Link: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-M-2-X16-V2-Threadripper/dp/B07NQBQB6Z/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=asus+hyper+m.2&qid=1571710576&sr=8-1


Unfortunately, the maximum you can run is TWO M.2, even tho the link I showed says it supports 4. This is due to the PCIe Limitation being X8. The card is electrically wired to 16X, and the slot runing X8, means it can only see half the card. In the ASUS Bios, you set PCIX16 to "Raid". This swill split the X8 into X4+X4 which will then see both M.2's on the Adapter Card.


My favorite Brand is Asus. But, they are fairly more expensive with their boards this time around. I switched to a cheaper X570 from Gigabyte because I find Ryzen 3000 doesnt overclock that much, and that Asus andTaichi board are meant for extreme overclocking.

Sonnet Allegro Pro USB 3.0 PCIe card

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've had good luck with this. Whatever you get make sure to get a card with dedicated controller per port.

Yeah I was looking into those adapters. They seems the best possible route so far. But if there is another way to get those 2 ports properly working at 3.0 speeds. I'd appreciate it.


I'd been searching on Amazon and I've found one that includes a JUSB3 port on the PCI card. But I'm unsure if it would even work if I simply just connect my front USB 3.0 header to it and just plug the PCI card into the PCI slot.

​

Here a link to it:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Mailiya-Expansion-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B01LZWC7TL/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=PCI+USB+3.0&qid=1555721436&s=gateway&sr=8-10


This seems rather promising. But still unsure if this can work. If not I'll pick up the JUSB2 to JUSB3 adapter.

if you are going to add a lot of external drives then you need to add more USB 3.0 cards.
But there is a difference between the $30 4 port and the $100 4 port.
For example the one in the link below has 4 dedicated USB 3 controllers on the card, and it connects to PCI-e x4 so it can make use of a lot of bandwidth. The cheaper cards don't have the ability to support all that bandwidth, but they are useful in particular situations.

So you want 4 or 8 drives to 4 ports the $30 is ok.
If you want 16 with same speed as if you went right to the pc then the one below is want you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522273173&sr=1-1&keywords=Sonnet+Allegro+Pro+USB+3.0+PCIe+card


Its up to you if you can put in 3 or 4 card into your pc then go for the lower cost cards. If you only have 1 or 2 areas to connect the card then go for the $100.

Required Hardware includes:

Item | Link | Exact Item I Used | Cost ($ CDN)
---|---|----|----
Raspberry Pi kit | link | Close Enough | $78.95
Arduino Nano | link | Yes | $25.99/5
50W 5v Power Supply | link | No| $26.45
5m WS2812B LED Strip | link | Yes | US$24.89
HDMI Splitter | link | Yes | $28.99
HDMI to RCA | link | Yes | $18.89
UTV007 Framegrabber | link | Yes | $17.99
RCA Male/Male | link | No | $2.59
Power Bar | link | No, but I might buy it | $20.85
Double Sided Tape | link | Yes | $6.45
HDMI x3 | | N/A | $10
Mini/Micro USB Cables | | N/A | $10

Total: ~CDN $260

Your CPU has 40 PCIe lanes. A PCIe SSD as a scratch drive for ongoing projects is the last best thing you can do to what is already a beast of a machine.

*looks like you can use NVMe m.2 SSDs after all! Looks like after updating the BIOS on your board you can use an adapter.

/u/Dcourtwreck is right. You want a FireWire cable (Sony calls it iLink). If your computer doesn't have a FireWire port (as most don't these days), you can get a cheap FireWire adapter.

I personally use this one and it's fine on both Windows and MacOS.

Are you sure that's a USB port? Here's a small FireWire cable, corresponding port...

If you list the make/model of your camcorder, I'm sure someone here, myself included, would be happy to confirm this.

Thanks for the recommendation, looks like some people have had issues with it through and that lead me to one which multiple sources recommended AND that has 4, not 2, independent ports. Thank you!

Sources:

https://forums.unraid.net/topic/79141-my-working-usbhdmi-over-ethernet-vm-setup/

https://forums.unraid.net/topic/79434-high-point-4-port-4-controller-usb-30-pci-express-20-x-4-hba-rocketu-1144d/


Product:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015CQ8DCS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1#

why 6100? thats chip is pretty old. go g4560 for cheaper and same performance or spend a bit more for a i5 7400.

Same with the 750ti, old card. get a 1050 or 1030. THey will work fine in a hackintosh.

Id ge ta 3.5 hdd, there cheaper and faster.

Psu seems a bit pricey for what it is, a cx450 would be a bit better and cheaper.

If you want firewire, get one of these https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-FireWire-1394a-Components-RC-504/dp/B004F3DM6C

Wifi this would work, https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GC-WB11ACD-I-Wireless-Express-Components/dp/B0742RG2MX/ref=sr_1_18?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1520012083&sr=1-18&keywords=wifi+card

but on your board you can use the gpu and one of these card unless you find a different board. This is a bit more and would fit both cards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4OM9R4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=tonymacx86com-20

How do you have yours mounted? That's a huge play area for the Rift. Try unplugging your HMD USB then plugging it back in when you get the 1 fps controller tracking. Gets rid of it for me every single time.

You're talking about this card from Sonnet, right? I'm tempted, but I don't think it's worth it. I bet a card with 2 Fresco controllers would be good enough as well, maybe a dual ASMedia one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073W9KCFC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527115549&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pci+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=51-opCYTp1L&ref=plSrch

I have 6 in total on various rigs running. I also run ubit risers, 170 of them to be exact and have had great luck.

Also I am no way affiliated with ubit just have had a good experience with their stuff.

Has anyone here used this USB 3.0 card successfully? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LZWC7TL/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491438078&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+3.0+pci+card&psc=1
I will attempt to install it tonight and run the compatibility tool but I am unfortunately stuck at work for the next few hours and was hoping to get some info. Any replies are greatly appreciated! Can't wait to get lost in the rift :) will be purchasing mine this Friday

Thanks! I had to get that poseidon keyboard to go with it haha and here is the fan controller I'm putting in the front... Mixed reviews, but I'm hoping it does OK...

http://www.amazon.com/KingWin-Multi-Function-Controller-Cooling-FPX-003/dp/B00DPA0QRE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1394273475&sr=8-4&keywords=fan+controller

M.2 ssd have 2 version m.2 sata with speed 550mb/s like normal sata 2.5 ssd and m.2 nvme ssd with speed read 3500mb/s.

From your asus mobo sites

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/RAMPAGE_IV_EXTREME/specifications/

your mobo dont have m.2 slot but you can use m.2 ssd adapter pcie for your mobo.

For M.2 Nvme SSD Adapter you can use adapter from asus, (you need to update your mobo bios and driver to latest version to use this adapter)

Asus Hyper M.2 x16 Card Expansion NVMe M.2 Drives price 59.99 usd

https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Hyper-M-2-x16-Card/dp/B0753JTJTG

For best nvme ssd today are Samsung 970 evo speed read 3500mb/s and cheapest alternative are Adata XPG SX8200 with speed read 3200mb/s. ADATA XPG SX6000 only have speed read 1000mb/s.

Adata XPG SX8200 960Gb Nvme SSD only 208 usd

https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-Solid-ASX8200NP-960GT-C/dp/B07BLJF819

Thanks for the info! I’ll start that setup right when I get out of work later today. I do only have 1 plot per drive. Those other plots were from computer space. Would you recommend me upgrading my processor?

PCI-E card: Mailiya PCI-E to USB 3.0 5-Port PCI Express Expansion Card and 15-Pin Power Connector, Mini PCI-E USB 3.0 Hub Controller Adapter with Internal 20-Pin Connector - Expand Another Two USB 3.0 Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZWC7TL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gmzHAbRE5VHQ2

Drives: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-easystore-8tb-external-usb-3-0-hard-drive-black/5792401.p?skuId=5792401

Agree with the 1TB SSD option. But the Asus Z390-A Prime supports NvMe SSD, so why not get an NvMe M.2 PCI-e card and get a 1TB NvMe SSD instead? That will improve the SSD speed by 3-4x. https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-M-2-X16-V2-Threadripper/dp/B07NQBQB6Z?sa-no-redirect=1

Also I would get 32GB memory if you are doing programming AI

For CV1 one of these two is best:

StarTech.com 4 Port USB 3.0 PCIe Card w/ 4 Dedicated 5Gbps Channels - UASP - SATA / LP4 Power - USB PCI Express Card Adapter (PEXUSB3S44V) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KWGwDbP5BR3QV

High Point 4-Port USB 3.0 PCI-Express 2.0 x 4 HBA RocketU 1144D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015CQ8DCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dXGwDbEJYS79F

I have three of them, all of them shows me 4 separate NVME drives, and honestly it works exactly as if I had those bare nvme drive slots on the motherboard. I couldn't be more happy. I get max speeds, too, have them filled with Samsung 960 EVOs and works like an absolute champ.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-M-2-X16-V2-Threadripper/dp/B07NQBQB6Z

That is the exact one that I have multiple of.

When I build a new system, which will be soon, I'll likely buy two more!

You can for the CPU fan, but also use some GPU overclocking software to modify its fan. If you want to control more fans, you can either get a manual fan controller(can use regular fans) or get a PWM splitter(will need all PWM fans) to use the motherboards CPU PWM control to control all PWM fans.

http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-3-Way-Splitter-Single-Connection/dp/B004CLFOK4/

http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/

http://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Channel-Multi-Fan-Controller-FPX-001/dp/B00DP9WRZY/

Not fans, fan controllers come with sensors. Like this for example.

The only information that can be passed through the motherboard fan pins is PWM information (RPMs).

There are some usb temperature sensors, usually for green houses. They don't cost a lot, but it isn't really different from having a real thermometer or a "weather station" near your case. I imagine that they come with their own software though - I don't think that you'll be able to integrate them say to a hwinfo panel.

Judging by your rig though, it's hard to imagine the ambient temperature readings to be really different from inside the case. You don't have any part that actively dissipates heat inside the case, so the temperature readings from the motherboard would be very close to true ambient temperatures. (I think the case temp sensor on the gigabytes is the TMPIN2)

Edit: Yea, that's the one

To your idea about the extermal fans: ever thought about just getting like 1 12V Molex wall plug like this one and just power a Fan controller like a 5.25" bay controller where you might add temperature sensors aswell? With that you dont have to use a whole big psu to power them.

To be sure the software running from one drive can't read the other drive, encryption is sufficient. To be sure it can't destroy data you'd need to switch it off physically with something like this https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Optimized-Controls-Provide-Longevity/dp/B00TZR3E70

Cool!

Can you already share some information? Which hardware are you planning to use? What will the custom case look like?

Regarding the USB card: I just recently found out that these cards exist. There was a discussion about them on the vfio-users mailinglist. This card should also have the right capabilites.

Yeah, I had an older 4 slot gaming board which I turned into 7 with a PCIe splitter. It also worked on my Z270-A which expanded it to 12 slots. But splitters can be hit or miss, especially with older mobos.

Whatever you do, do NOT order from Cryptomined. Scammed out of $39 for a splitter that I paid for with crypto. Got the run around for months upon months. Should've just ordered through Amazon to begin with, which I just ended up doing.

The wiki links here for a list of appropriate motherboards if you're going to spend money on a new one.

Some other lists:

http://bitcoin.zorinaq.com/many_pcie/

https://forum.getpimp.org/topic/720/list-of-top-known-motherboards-for-multi-gpu-mining

Also, here's an interesting post I saved awhile back about a guy who used to buy a bunch of those cheap enterprise desktops and converted them into 3-4 gpu rigs. I guess this made more sense back when Z270s and mining experts were selling for $300.

Thanks, I'll check out the graphs tomorrow. When I tried USB 3.0 on this thing, instead of 30-40MB/s when going from one disk to another in the enclosure like I'm getting with eSATA, it was like, 15-20MB/s on a large file copy. Is my StarTech PEXUSB3S4V shit for this thing or something maybe? It worked fine when these were in their original enclosures.

Thanks, can you please help me with this one too?

SainSmart MEGA 2560 Board for Arduino UNO Mega Nano DUE Robot R3 Duemilanove by SainSmart http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00761NDCI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_udp_apa_Dqx1xbHAD69V1

What about this?

XCSOURCE 5pcs Mini USB Nano V3.0 ATmega328P 5V 16M Micro Controller Board F Arduino TE359 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B015MGHH6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Frx1xbH8TB574

I am confused. Are they all doing the same thing? Whats the difference?

Alternative option:Amazon has the 1920x (1st gen) for $199.


Motherboards are still pricy, however I picked up an open box x399 ASROCK professional gaming for $177, on eBay.


I always wanted to build a threadripper. FOr the price to performance Im extremely happy.


Just picked up "ASUS Hyper M.2 X16 PCIe 3.0 X4 Expansion Card V2 Supports 4 NVMe M.2 (2242/2260/2280/22110) Up to 128 Gbps for Intel VROC and AMD Ryzen Threadripper NVMe RAID "
Installing (4) SX8100 (1TB) SSD m.2 drives. Im expecting 12 Gps read speeds. I can use 2 of these with all of the PCI lands available on Threadripper. *Over 27GB per second in real world testing. See YouTUbe

Probably doesn't help, but this is reported to work great in Sierra on desktop Hackintoshes

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002S53IG8

If you have problems with disconnecting Sensors or headset USB connection:

Ideally you need 2 seperate USB channels to separate your sensor and supply enough bandwidth for all of them.

• The cheap way, you start moving your sensor and headsets around in different USB ports, try putting 1 sensor in a usb 2.0 "black socket", 2 sensors in a USB 3 "blue socket" preferable with nothing else. If you have USB's at the front of your computer, make sure to try these as well.
  
• The easy/pricy way, buy a USB 3 PCI-E expansion card, one with dual channels will help but those are a twice the price of a descent single channel USB 3 card. (https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HJZE9VK).
  
  Even if your motherboard have several usb controllers, some of them can easily be daisy chained, which means that all your USB devices are on the same USB 3 controller.
  To view USB controller hierarchy: Open "Device Manager" on your PC, click "View" in the menu and select "Devices by connections", open the usb controllers and find your devices.

I used to have a sata controller that would do what you're talking about. You'd attach the SSD and the hard drive to the same controller and set it up so that the SSD would cache reads. I think it was called HyperDuo...

I think it was something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T264/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This looks like it would also fit the bill for you: https://www.amd.com/en/technologies/store-mi

However, it will be VERY obvious to you when you need the third sensor.You'll find yourself frequently facing the direction without sensors and visual glitches everywhere, trying to turn around and deal with whatever in game objective you were dealing with previously.

If your not experiencing this then wait :)

As a List (That you didn't ask for) for what I bought for Roomscale:4 port /w controller USB 3.0 card (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10)Additional Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6) - Note this includes an 2.0 USB extension cable, 2.0 can stretch farther without signal loss.

**Extra Equipment**10 Ft HDMI extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE) - For the Oculus Headset16 Ft USB Active extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8) - For the Oculus headset

Hangers for the Oculus cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5WKXW) - this just gets the cables from under your feet, it is my favorite

This product might help if you don't find a software solution.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TZR3E70/ "Kingwin HDD Power Switch Module 6 Switches for 5.25-Inch Bay"

I have one and it works great for dual-booting while keeping the hard drives completely separate.

Oldie but a goodie: this Anandtech thread says exhaust is more important. I'd invest in a fan controller - this one looks like it might be decent.

Honestly, this one is easier to follow! As for USB, I'm pretty sure this is the card I'm using right now.. Sonnet also has a few PCIe products specifically designed for the Mac Pro, but they are more expensive.

It seems to happen while playing video games. I'm not sure what exactly is up. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with a PCI usb hub that I bought. I've tried reseating it too.

This is the PCI card is question. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZWC7TL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've had good luck with these. http://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-ICUSB2321F-1-Port-Adapter-Retention/dp/B004ZMYTYC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1450230167&sr=8-4&keywords=startech+rs232

Being a ham radio operator most of my radios still need to be programmed over RS232 and never had an issue with these ones. Cheapo prolific based ones never seemed to be reliable.

The Orico card works great.

Got 2 sensors on the mobo usb3 and 2 on this card, works fine.

> Depending on your computer, you may have to upgrade your motherboard

That's incredibly unlikely. For a start, if you have a CPU fast enough to handle VR then you have at least PCI-E 2 and almost certainly PCI-E 3. Given that, you only need a spare PCI 1x slot and you can add this card for $46 to give you 4 more USB 3 ports and 500MB/s (4Gb/s) of bandwidth with PCI-E 2, double that with PCI-E 3. More than enough.

If you have a PCI 4x slot free then you can get this monster card which also has 4 USB 3 ports on it, except, they are all on individual USB controllers that don't share bandwidth with each other, and a max 2000MB/s (16Gb/s) (again, double for PCI-E 3) of throughput, so you could connect all 3 cameras to just this card and it would function just fine.

Thanks for the heads up on the cover. I took it off myself because it wasn't low profile. I'll set this project aside and just buy a new card with the appropriate cover.

So I managed to get this one to show up, but I have trouble getting it to recognize anything I plug in.

From my research, I found that switching to legacy helped alot of people.

Upon trying to install legacy drivers, I get a serious freeze followed by bsod every time.

The product I intend to use recommends TI chipset, so my plan was to buy one that had TI, which would concern me if this one had it and doesn't work.

What are my options here? Would win 10 fix this? How about a newer pci card like this one?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002S53IG8/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Regarding the Intel thing, I am running AMD.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009O7YU56/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FC3YJ8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use the HighPoint 4-Port USB 3.0 PCI-Express 2.0 x 4 HBA RocketU 1144D.

It has 4 ports, but each port is backed by its own USB controller that sit behind a PCIe switch. This means that each port can be individually passed to separate VMs.

The card shows up on the host as:

03:00.0 PCI bridge: PLX Technology, Inc. PEX 8609 8-lane, 8-Port PCI Express Gen 2 (5.0 GT/s) Switch with DMA (rev ba)
03:00.1 System peripheral: PLX Technology, Inc. PEX 8609 8-lane, 8-Port PCI Express Gen 2 (5.0 GT/s) Switch with DMA (rev ba)
04:01.0 PCI bridge: PLX Technology, Inc. PEX 8609 8-lane, 8-Port PCI Express Gen 2 (5.0 GT/s) Switch with DMA (rev ba)
04:05.0 PCI bridge: PLX Technology, Inc. PEX 8609 8-lane, 8-Port PCI Express Gen 2 (5.0 GT/s) Switch with DMA (rev ba)
04:07.0 PCI bridge: PLX Technology, Inc. PEX 8609 8-lane, 8-Port PCI Express Gen 2 (5.0 GT/s) Switch with DMA (rev ba)
04:09.0 PCI bridge: PLX Technology, Inc. PEX 8609 8-lane, 8-Port PCI Express Gen 2 (5.0 GT/s) Switch with DMA (rev ba)
05:00.0 USB controller: ASMedia Technology Inc. ASM1042A USB 3.0 Host Controller
06:00.0 USB controller: ASMedia Technology Inc. ASM1042A USB 3.0 Host Controller
07:00.0 USB controller: ASMedia Technology Inc. ASM1042A USB 3.0 Host Controller
08:00.0 USB controller: ASMedia Technology Inc. ASM1042A USB 3.0 Host Controller

This works very well for my current setup: a VM workstation for my wife and I.

Only caveat. If a VM isn't shutdown gracefully it seems to get the individual controller into a weird state with the only fix being to reset the host.On subsequent starts of the guest, UEFI/OVMF/TianoCore hangs for 2-3 minutes but eventually boots Windows, but the controller has an error.

I've posted about it before in various places but haven't had much luck in finding a solution. It advertises that it supports reset but forcefully resetting the controller from the host doesn't appear to do anything.

Don't by the StarTech equiv., the 4 Port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter w/ 4 Dedicated 5Gbps Channels - UASP - SATA / LP4 Powe.
I bought this card first (it's cheaper), but it doesn't work. Why -- I can't remember. It was over a year ago.

you could try this. https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-M-2-X16-V2-Threadripper/dp/B07NQBQB6Z/ref=asc_df_B07NQBQB6Z/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=320228665853&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16459501263987744377&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010799&hvtargid=pla-659234806310&psc=1

My question is would you even get a performance boost if you exceed what the CPU capable for using?

I buy these "Arduino Nano" boards. I guess they are "knockoffs"? You have to buy 5 of them, but shipping is free if you have a "Prime" subscription:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015MGHH6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Something like this, and np. Feel free to ask more questions if you need to.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DPA0QRE/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1510466558&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Fan+controller

Firewire is super cheap too, I got mine for $18 through an Amazon seller.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB-Serial-Adapter-Powered/dp/B004ZMYTYC

There are 2 different things, passthrough an entire usb controller, or a single device, sounds like you want a single device. This link has nice screenshots of exactly what to click: http://www.vbrain.info/2014/07/29/how-to-add-an-esxi-connected-usb-device-to-a-vm/

The usb expansions card you use needs to have a Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset on it. I'm not seeing anything about that on the product description page.

This expansion card costs more , but does work well. If you get this one make sure to not use the drivers that come with it, but rather generic Windows drivers.

would these work? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B015MGHH6Q/ref=pd_luc_rh_sbs_01_01_t_img_lh?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I do have prime so that would be great

[Update]: Bought this PCI-e card via amazon on Monday:

Syba Low Profile PCI-Express 1394b/1394a (2B1A) Card, TI Chipset, Extra Regular Bracket SD-PEX30009

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002S53IG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Installed tonight, booted into Win7 first. Immediately recognized and installed drivers automagically.
Then booted into Mavericks with external FW800 drive attached, it popped right up on my Mac desktop.
Also, my original external iSight cam (FW400) plugged right in and worked in iMessage perfectly.

Could not be happier with the purchase.

This is the USB 3.0 card I have. It's inexpensive and works great!

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00I027GPC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the card I'm using right now:
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Expansion-Controller-Additional-Connection/dp/B00JFR2I2C/

I have a 2-sensor room-scale setup working perfectly with it.

The card you have has an ASM1042x controller though, which I think has been confirmed to work by others?

yeah i got this one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073W9KCFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it's one of those Ubit ones from amazon. works w/ Windows (make sure to install one GPU at a time) and no-fuss set-up on HiveOS

This one worked great for me.

I just put one of these in my Supermicro CSE846 running Proxmox and it works great.

Sounds like the common "USB ports aren't compatible" problem that I was having.

I bought a PCIe USB expansion card and that solved it.

This one, specificlly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AVSN2YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, i wouldn't downgrade.

I was wondering if something like this would work- https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-M-2-X16-V2-Threadripper/dp/B07NQBQB6Z/ref=pd_ybh_a_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WS33TWWS4NVDRNWKW4H2

Regarding the link to the one that you use - does the fact this it is 4x slow it down?

DACs are digital analog converters. They are basically really fancy sound cards that are good for recording. Low noise floor so you can turn them up really loud before you ever hear any hissing. This is essential for recording any outboard gear. It also will have proper outputs for studio speakers aka reference monitors. I don't record any instruments and work 100% in the box so I use a 2output for my speakers. This is what I use as a DAC to make electronic music.

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Onyx-Blackjack-Recording-Interface/dp/B003VZG550/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1467502404&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=onyx+blackjack

If you end up getting a higher end DAC that has firewire read below.

Firewire will be its own separate card that goes in a PCI-E slot. Its a very common port in Apple computers, its become the defacto standard for high end DACs that have more than 4 in/out

https://www.amazon.com/Syba-Profile-PCI-Express-Chipset-SD-PEX30009/dp/B002S53IG8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

This one I believe works right out of the box.

Power Supply:

https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Nightjar-Completely-Acoustics-NJ520/dp/B00KHO0IG0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467502606&sr=8-2&keywords=fanless+power+supply

Fanless, more than enough power for a machine like this. Costs a little more but for an audio PC silence is worth the extra money.

I have the Startrack card that uses dual channels

Theres a dual or quad channel Startech, many people get the quads but the dual will work (quad is $81 and dual price is $10 - $20 less)


Startech USB 3.0 Card Adapter w/ 2 Dedicated 5Gbps Channels
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZE9VK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_x8NAhSIgUcvXK

you dont need to raplace the motherboard, you could also go for a sata ssd or buy a pci-e card to fit the m.2 ssd
something like this
https://www.amazon.de/Asus-Hyper-M-2-X4-Mainboard/dp/B017YUCAXS/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1510742529&sr=1-1&keywords=asus+m.2+pcie

That USB PCIE card is pretty amazing !
https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10?th=1

Not cheap but a cool find !

But I can't see myself drop $2000 on a cpu..

Buy a couple of splitters or a dedicated fan controller. Some cases have a fan controller built in.

Oculus recommends the $80 Startech with 4 USB controllers as the ultimate offering.

• 4 Port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter w/ 4 Dedicated 5Gbps Channels - UASP - SATA / LP4 Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e2EIAbGF5PMKH
  
  However, the Startech single usb controller card (similar to the inateck) seems to also work, and is only $30-$40. While Oculus doesnt state the lesser Starteck card is compatible, the reviews say otherwise
  
  
• StarTech.com 4-Port PCI Express SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Controller Card Adapter with SATA Power PEXUSB3S4V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AT5SVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D3EIAbV1KZXJ9
  
  

No need for 5 controllers. Here, take a look at some of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Sentry-5-4-Inch-Controller-Cooling-AC-SEN-3-B1/dp/B00KJGYLNM/

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0156YBCKG/

https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-FPX-001-Controller-Controls-Independent/dp/B00DP9WRZY

Basically all you need is a “PWM Fan Controller Hub”. You connect all the fans to the hub, and the hub (depending on which style/type you get), can either be controlled manually via knobs or interface (usually mounted in a 5.25 bay), or connected to the mobo’s CPU fan header, and can be controlled through specific software. The NZXT hub allows control via software like this.

Yes, that's an x4 card so works in x8. That is rather expensive though. You can get the fastest flash based NVMe drive + M.2 adapter for less.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-MZ-V6P1T0BW-Express-Solid-State/dp/B01M215R0B/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/HYPER-M-2-MINI-Interface-Motherboard/dp/B017YUCAXS/

Note that using the x8 slot will reduce the x16 slot to x8, since the slot share the x16 bandwidth. GPU Performance impact is very small though.

Maybe a straight firewire card would be better.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002S53IG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes it's digital, the arduino chip generates the sound, as well as the envelopes and chorus. Here is the link for the chips I use:
https://www.amazon.ca/XCSOURCE-ATmega328P-Controller-Arduino-TE359/dp/B015MGHH6Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510099317&sr=8-3&keywords=arduino+nano

my goal right now is to achieve highest machine/$ utilizing virtual machines , to do server>thin client feed efficiently you need hardware acceleration which means a gpu and that makes things complicated ...
im planning to do some experiments i can especially with these miinig stuff there are things like this which if they work would be a really nice solution....
im not an expert on pci lane allocation or pci passthrough but linus was able to get 8 individual cards off of a single pcie slot on his 6 editors 1 cpu system which doesnt line up with stuff ive been reading online on how iommu groups are the limiiting factor on gpu passthrough (maybe because he used acs override idk)...

Some people will say put both OS on the same SSD, however if something ever happens to that SSD then you have a completely unbootable system. Due to that, I often recommend a separate disk for each OS.

If you go through old posts you will see that many people who try to do Windows/Linux dual boot have had issues with trying to use Grub as the boot loader and this is why [I usually link people here](
https://www.reddit.com/r/linux4noobs/comments/3msid3/duel_booting_linux_and_windows_separate_drives/) which is the basic setup for individual drives on each OS and using the Windows boot loader.

EDIT: These directions are the same that I use for every dual boot setup I do, and currently running 3 Windows installs (2xWin10, 1xWin7), 1 Ubuntu, and a "shared" data drive. Have done so many setups like this for many people and haven't seen any problems crop up.

In your particular case, if you do not want each drive to see each other then you may want to use a HDD switcher similar to this , unfortunately I couldn't locate one specific to SSD.

The better question is why in the world do you want 6 fans?

But, to answer your question:

fan controller

Just bought this one, hope itll fit. I have 2 970s in my case and I'm not sure if its blocking the PCI port or not.. well see.

Another success report for a card based on the ASMedia ASM1142 controller. Personally I've also had success with this card and also one of the even cheaper generic LA31-12U cards that you can find on Ebay (both of which are also ASM1142 cards).

I have no trouble using the drivers that Windows 10 installed by default.

I had that problem when using a usb pci-e card with only 1 controller, fixed it by getting a card with 2 controllers but it costs a pretty penny. It's this one.

Just wanted to throw in possibly cheaper, better or more convenient options for people:

NVMe

• https://www.amazon.com/Aplicata-Quad-NVMe-PCIe-Adapter/dp/B01MTU75X4/ (x8)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Aplicata-Quad-NVMe-PCIe-Adapter/dp/B074WV4ZN4 (x16)
  
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/HighPoint-SSD7101A-1-dedicated-32Gbps-Controller/dp/B073W71K4Z
  
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Hyper-M-2-x16-Card-Components/dp/B0753JTJTG
  
  
  AHCI
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/SEDNA-HyoperDuo-acceleration-function-included/dp/B01EHKCMIG
  
  
• https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815124171
  
  
• https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA85V4WK2864
  
  
• https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1JM2UY1147
  
  
  Aplicata, HighPoint, SEDNA & SYBA products don't need bifurcation I believe. Also sometimes cheaper else where other than linked for reference.

There are cards like this, using a switch chip to allow connected multiple cards to a single slot:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubit-Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=pd_sim_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B073W9KCFC&pd_rd_r=KHV2Q1WDADWVYY9MT0Z3&pd_rd_w=MBBQf&pd_rd_wg=XiTha&psc=1&refRID=KHV2Q1WDADWVYY9MT0Z3

Then you use the normal risers with it. I have not personally used this card tho.

They don't recommend using a USB hub. You'd be better off buying an Inatek USB PCI-E expansion card. You can learn why here: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-balancing-bandwidth-on-usb/

Oculus recommends this card: https://smile.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-compatible-Version-KT4004/dp/B00I027GPC/

Not sure if this card is on the Oculus whitelist, but it has 4 controllers, 450MB/s per USB slot (PCIe x4).

If my two 3.0 controllers aren't enough this would be the next step. I won't settle with USB 2.0 after buying five active USB 3.0 extension cables.

so here's my self follow up. i tried this card:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFR2I2C?keywords=inateck%20usb%20pcie&qid=1450042134&ref_=sr_1_6&sr=8-6

but no workee. since i had free shipping and returns i figured it was worth a shot b/c it's 11 bucks less than the same companies mac-compatible card and from what i could tell used the same controller, etc.

now i'm ordering this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I027GPC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

as it's well reviewed by hackintosh people. if that doesn't work i'll try the high point, but i got burned by one of their RAID cards I bought years ago and I'm still bitter (and a hardhead)

Controlling fan speeds individual is difficult let alone accessible by software unless you've got multiple headers. Closest solutions I've seen are bulky (link below) or using a custom solution like raspberry pi to control speeds by communicating with host computer

https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-FPX-001-Controller-Controls-Independent/dp/B00DP9WRZY/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DP9WRZY&pd_rd_r=bbf8ae20-de87-4cb7-b07f-d6014a9257e8&pd_rd_w=J2vra&pd_rd_wg=fUIHz&pf_rd_p=eb968aa8-26af-4aeb-99f6-3d185cf2f412&pf_rd_r=G03AQ34WVWPMF3E14CZV&psc=1&refRID=2CKFCB89WY421M2S9380#

I asked the same question recently and seems like the Inateck 4 ports card is recommended. Haven't tried it though:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFR2I2C

https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/6actac/r710_add_in_usb_30_pcie_card/

Here's a pic of the inside of my build by the way - http://i.picpar.com/9XMc.png

For day to day use I have the hackintosh running on the RX 560, usually the Vega is used for Windows gaming. WX 7100 is my host GPU for Linux. The top PCI card is a Sonnet USB card, which supports passthrough of individual USB controllers, this one specifically: https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10/

Along with the 1950X I have 64GB RAM and around 20TB of storage for my file server.

Like I said, it does tell you on that page I linked to, I ended up ordering the one in bold, no issues (aside from a driver one initially heh). I've had a few days of issues until I got that:

Basic Oculus Rift Two-sensor Setup:

• US – ORICO USB 3.1 PCI-E Expansion Card Adapter
  
• UK – ORICO USB 3.1 (GEN 2) PCI-E Expansion Card Adapter
  
  Basic Oculus Rift Three-sensor Setup:
  
  
• US – Four-port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter
  
• UK – Startech Four-port PCI Express SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter
  
  Note: For these cards, use the most recent drivers available from Microsoft and update to the most recent version of Windows.
  
  Max. VR Performance and Roomscale Setup:
  
  
• US – Four-port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter
  
• UK – Startech PEXUSB3S44V Four-port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter
  
  Note: For these cards, use the most recent drivers available from Microsoft and update to the most recent version of Windows.

> Highpoint 1144D

This one? https://www.amazon.com/HighPoint-4-Port-PCI-Express-RocketU-1144D/dp/B015CQ8DCS

Then why do they recommend this cheaper USB cards in their official blog post as well?

$24 vs $109 is quiet a big difference and I feel like there shouldn't really be a need to buy another extra hardware besides the extra camera (and possibly extension cables) to get roomscale. This is making me furious!

FYI, I just tried this unpowered card from Inateck: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFR2I2C

And it passes the compat check!

You're going to want something like this: https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-2-port-Controller-SY-PEX40039/dp/B00AZ9T264?th=1

This is a hardware issue though, not really related in any way to Radarr.

this is my favorite thus far:
https://www.amazon.com/UHD400-3840X2160-Samsung-40-Inch-Display/dp/B01CSC2P0K
they also make free sync and Gsync models for 200 more.

So that is for a 2.5" nvme drive also known as U.2. there are drives out there for it but it wont work for a 960 evo. Buying the hyper card is what you are looking for found here: https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Accessory-32Gbit-flexibility-Retail/dp/B017YUCAXS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485905489&sr=1-2&keywords=asus+hyper+m.2+x4
That does depend on your motherboard though. Latest chipset i have seen work is the Z97 and newer(x99,Z170, Z270, Etc.) you might have to experiment with which slots work properly to boot. Also, Windows 10/8.1 is recommended as anything older will need some ISO driver slip streaming trickery.

https://smile.amazon.com/Mailiya-Expansion-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B01LZWC7TL/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c__5/133-1855454-5086964?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LZWC7TL&pd_rd_r=883a1b1a-10d5-4954-b43b-b32ffb1191f6&pd_rd_w=aX9yZ&pd_rd_wg=flklL&pf_rd_p=d59c4be5-f193-4660-b12b-ea6611e15f85&pf_rd_r=PSB5E365NVBDPPB9VS7K&psc=1&refRID=PSB5E365NVBDPPB9VS7K

Just make sure you use the sata power, or you'll get drops.

if you want to do shitty robots you'd want more servos. the batch I grabbed were these: 10 servos for $15

worked great for my impatient hand bot

but yea, get a cheaper generic arduino.

I ordered these guys, but they're shipped by swimming donkey from china. Mine should arrive "any day now"

Generally when people are discussing USB passthrough they're passing through the controller, so that it is transparent to the guest OS (guest os is responsible for drivers, etc, and has direct hardware access). For hot plug to work the controller would need to be passed through.

Any HUB/Extender that connects to a USB port that you choose to pass through would be passed through in its entirety to a single guest OS.

There is this card that has a separate controller for each port, which means you could have 4 VMs each with their own host controller:

https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10?th=1

Then you could add a hub to each of the ports if you want more devices connected.

If you're looking to expand further, you might want to look into a pcie expander

IF you've got a blower fan that exhausts directly outside, you should be fine. If you've got an open air fan that exhausts back into your case, you should look into getting your case's airflow up.

In either case, I think you're over-estimating how long a USB expansion card is.

2 external USB3 ports + header for 2 more USB 3 ports, external, front panel or internal

4 external USB3 ports

PCIe 1x cards are short

EDIT: Version without external power:

2 external USB3 ports + header for 2 more USB 3 ports, external, front panel or internal

4 external USB3 ports

They do that by requesting extra power from the PCIe bus by saying they are full-height cards.

It's the same system I talked the SO into getting last year while bundle prices were low so she'd have a 'turnkey vr' rig.

Protip 1 - This 4 port PCIe 1x card drops right in and helps make up for the lack of fast USB ports on the system - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AT5SVS/

Protip 2 - You have three SATA ports on the motherboard. You can disconnect the CD-ROM, drop in two 3tb (or larger) HDD's to make a decent mirror and zip-tie a SSD on top the drive bay (see photo). There are enough free power leads off the stock PSU to make this happen.

https://imgur.com/a/95hsZ

I installed the SSD first for her, mirrored the OS off the stock 1TB HDD onto the SSD, pulled the 1TB, dropped in two 3TBs and built a mirror so her rig could double as a decent Plex/Steam server.

For the price it's not a bad little rig.

If I buy a PCI-E M.2 expansion card like this one, would I run into any issues being able to use this as a boot drive?

> LSI 9211

Are there certain specs to look for? Trying to find out the difference between this card and something like this that is a third of the price.

You could do a cheap fan controller like this.

You also have two PCI Express slots, so pick up a PCI E splitter for one or both! You may run into issues if the motherboard doesn't have options like Above 4G Decoding or setting lane speed, but 3 should work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Ubit-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517574065&sr=8-3&keywords=pcie+splitter&dpID=51-opCYTp1L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFR2I2C/

That card works well and should give you plenty of speed.

Just Google "Hard Drive power switch". You'll find videos and switchers for sale like this.

> https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Accessory-32Gbit-flexibility-Retail/dp/B017YUCAXS

Let me know how this works. I may need one in my toolbox as well.