Reddit mentions: The best neutral density filters

Are you taking a film program in college? What sort of projects are you intending to use the camera for? Assuming that you're making a whole-hearted dive into filmmaking, here are my recommendations:

• SLR Magic 25mm - I've never used it, but it seems like a fantastic lens. The fast aperture combined with the BMPCC4K's low light capabilities will be an awesome combo. Great focal length too! That said, if you're willing to spend a bit more on glass, I'd look for something on the wider end as well. For me, 12-14mm is almost always sufficient. Sometimes I wish I had a 10mm for landscape stuff.
  
• BMPCC4K Bundle - It looks like a decent kit with a lot of basic essentials. You may be better off buying these things individually and investing in a better mic and tripod. It's important to have a fluid head too, which will allow you to perform smooth tilts and pans. The tripod included in this package just has a ball head so it's designed for fixed positions and may not deliver smooth movements. There are entry-level pro video tripods for $250-$300 on BH Photo. That said, a small tripod is a great tool to have. It lets you get the camera into places and angles that you simply can't with a bigger tripod. I'd recommend having both, but make sure your small one can get really low to the ground because that's the main limitation of a big tripod.
  
• Helios 44-2 58mm - This is an incredible lens. I'm sure you're aware, but it has a very significant character. It's creamy and smooth, low contrast and full of swirling bokeh. I love this lens, but I only use it when the approach calls for such a look. Its character is the entire reason it's so popular, but it may not match well with the 25mm you listed. Although I'm sure you could use that difference to your advantage in some ways. Just be aware that lenses have a great deal to do with what an image looks like in both obvious and subtle ways. There will likely be a noticeable difference in the bokeh, sharpness and contrast between these two lenses. Take this last bit with a grain of salt because I haven't actually used the SLR Magic 25mm. If you don't get the Helios, I'd recommend getting something else in either 35mm or 50mm.
  
• Samsung T5 1TB - Definitely a good idea. As far as I'm aware it's the best cost/space ratio for this camera. You may not need a 1TB though, so you could save some money here. I use this camera on small-medium scale commercial productions with a 500GB T5 and I haven't felt like I needed more. Record time depends greatly on what format and data rate settings you choose to record in. The most efficient BRAW setting (12:1) gives me just over 5 hours on the 500GB, while the highest quality setting (Q0 or 3:1) gives me just over 70 minutes. I generally use 8:1 of 5:1, but make no mistake, 12:1 still delivers incredible image quality beyond nearly anything within a couple grand of this price point. One thing to be aware of is that you can't delete files on the camera. This means you have to be very intentional if you want to get the most out of your recording space.
  
• Fotodiox Pro Adapter M42 to EF - Don't purchase this. The BMPCC4K has a Micro Four Thirds mount, this is for Canon's EF mount. This will be of no use to you.
  
• K&F Concept M42 to M4/3 - This is the adapter you need for the Helios 44-2.
  
• Lanparte Cage - The Smallrig cage is great and you'll save yourself some money too!
  
• Smallrig Universal Side Handle - A top handle is more valuable than a side handle. It allows you to do low handheld and one-handed operation much more comfortably. The camera body itself is designed to be held at its sides. If you have a bunch of cables connected to the camera and can't hold it on the left side, a top handle covers that too in most situations. I've got this one. It's awesome because you can slide the handle back and forth to balance the camera. A balanced camera makes a big difference.
  
• Juicebox Battery - Not a bad choice if you're on a tight budget. Looks like better Wh/cost ratio than lots of V-mounts. That said, I invested in v-mounts when I purchased this camera and I'm very happy I did. I spent a lot of time trying to find a cheaper alternative that would still be efficient to use in a working environment, but nothing seemed to be worth it for my needs. If you watch for sales on the budget brands (dracast, watson, etc) you can get them for pretty cheap. You'll also need a v-mount plate and a D-tap to 2-pin connector. As soon as you add a V-mount, you need a sturdy way to mount it to the camera. This means you're looking at a 15mm rail system. All said and done this could easily cost you over $500. The in-camera batteries last 45 minutes and you can get decent budget ones on Amazon. If you need to run the camera for 10 hours a day or more, go with v-mount. If you're just playing around for a couple hours a day, stick with your Juicebox or the internal batteries.
  
• Feelworld FW279 - Good budget choice. There are Feelworld models for half the price that will do the job if you want to save some cash.
  
• YXIAN DC to BMPCC4K - This looks like the right cable for your Juicebox.
  
  Things you're missing:
  
  
• HDMI Cable - Connect camera to monitor.
  
• SSD mount - Mount SSD to cage.
  
• Mini ball head or magic arm - Mount/position monitor on camera.
  
• ND filter - If you don't know what this is, it blocks light from entering the lens so that you can have more control over your aperture and shutter speed during bright shooting situations. It's like sunglasses for your camera. It will allow you to shoot at fast apertures to achieve shallow depth of field while shooting in broad daylight while maintaining a proper exposure. You can get variable ones which allow you to adjust the amount of light being block by rotating the filter, or a set of fixed filters that only block a specific amount. The variable kind typically has a larger trade-off in image quality, but are much more convenient and are cheaper than a whole set of quality fixed filters. I would recommend a variable ND to start. Make sure the filter thread size matches the largest of your two lenses, then you'll also need the correct step-up ring to use this on the lens with the smaller filter thread size.
  
• Computer - Dealing with this footage efficiently requires some decent processing power. What kind of computer are you running? If it doesn't have decent specs you may be looking at an upgrade.
  
• Storage space - This camera eats up a lot of space and if you're doing things properly you'll need backup drives. Your needs here will depend a lot on how much you're shooting and what kind of projects you're working on. I have an 8TB (4x2TB) RAID in my Mac Pro and backup to 2x 8TB drives. When my RAID fills up I make a copy to an archival drive, wipe the RAID and one of the 8's, swap another 8 in and start over. Hard drives fail, always keep two copies.

Thanks :) I just posted another reply above with some more info: http://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/21y91v/advance_landscape_photography_tips_and_techniques/cghn6oc

Lee is probably the best when it comes to ND filters, but you can get good results with most brands. I would steer away from the ND filters that cost $5 on ebay since they're most likely made from low quality plastic. Might be fun to play with though, I might pick some up to test them out.

For reasonably cheap circular glass filters, ICE is a no name brand but the quality seems pretty good. Here's a link to their 77mm 10 stop filter: http://www.amazon.com/ICE-ND1000-Neutral-Density-Optical/dp/B00GMXD9E8 I picked one up to test and I'm pretty happy with the optical quality.

Lots of people have also used welding glass instead of a 10 stop filter, and it seems to work pretty well — it's got a heavy color cast, but that's easily corrected.

Congrats on the job!

[Tiffen Variable ND filter] (http://amzn.to/2mw8AY7) is a necessity to me, especially when outside.

This shoulder rig is really an impressive tool for the price.

Husky Multi-tool is my favorite multi-tool

A good tripod like Davis & Sanford model is probably one of the best purchases I've ever made (it's great as-is, and is even better when you upgrade the fluid head to a Manfrotto Video Head).

Pelican SD Card case not only provides protection, but also helps you keep organized.

Pelican 1510 with Padded Divider Case has been my main camera case for well over a year, and has saved my life on multiple occasions (downpours, falling down stairs, etc). I use the top organizer on it as well quite a bit.

This Apurture light is a great run-n-gun LED light that i prefer over costlier alternatives.

Joby Gorillapod is always in my camera bag for random uses. I use it mainly for a makeshift hair light mount, but I've gone as far as mounting my b-cam on it for timelapses.

Merrell Moab Waterproof Shoes are the best shooting shoes I've ever worn.

This Foldable Cart is incredible for me... I never go to a shoot without it. It folds up and fits in my small jeep along with the rest of my gear without an issue, and it gives me a workbench when deployed on location.

A watch with a compass is very important to me if I'm doing exteriors and have no idea where the sun is at due to cloud cover.

Anyway those are some odds and ends I could think of that I use on a day to day basis.

Just using your example of going from a sunny playground to a shaded area, that light isn’t nearly bright enough to help you. I doubt you’ll find any on camera light powerful enough to help you outside during the day, even in shade.

If you’re trying to solve that particular problem, then I suggest treating yourself to a variable ND filter. Don’t be too cheap, either. You were ready to spend $150 on that light, so don’t be afraid to drop some money on this filter. The cheap ones aren’t great. Stick with a reputable brand like B+W, Tiffen, Hoya, etc. This is an example of a pretty good one. Remember that you get what you pay for. You’ll want to look at your lens filter thread measurement to make sure you get the correct size.

If you don’t know what an ND filter is (Neutral Density), it is basically sunglasses for your camera. It allows you to darken the image without having to change the settings on your camera. This is particularly useful for video when following the rule of thumb of your shutter speed being double your frame rate, as these are normally pretty slow shutter speeds from an exposure standpoint. With a variable ND, you’ll be able to quickly spin the filter to brighten your image rather than fumbling with camera settings. It would actually look much smoother than a light anyway.

heading to the Rockies later this year to do my first ever travel type filming ( I know this is the photography subreddit, but y'all are super knowledgeable).

I wanted to pick up an ND filter for my Panasonic G7, and I can't decide on which one. I know variables are much better, but it's quite an expensive trip already and I'm so new, I don't want to spend too much on sort of a niche item when I already have so much to learn that can be focused on to make my shots better.
Which would you recommend? And how would you recommend I use it to get the best shots? Timelapse of waterfalls/rapids/canoeing? etc

https://www.amazon.ca/Gobe-ND8-46mm-ND-Filter/dp/B06XVGKHLP/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1525949488&sr=8-12&keywords=nd+filter+46mm

https://www.amazon.ca/Tiffen-46mm-Neutral-Density-Filter/dp/B00004ZC92/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1525949488&sr=8-6&keywords=nd+filter+46mm

I'm only about 1.5 years into DSLR photography, but I'm a meteorologist, so storm chasing and weather photography is most of what I do. It's all dependent on your camera and what time of day it is. If it's day time, you're going to need a good neutral density filter, narrow aperture, and low ISO. Then just adjust your shutter speed as needed so you don't get overexposed. This will be most dependent on the ND filter you get. Hoya makes a good one.

For night time, it really depends on the frequency of your strikes and how fast your camera can write to your card. In my experience, I find that I would rather take more shots at 8-10 seconds than 30 second exposures because my camera takes longer to write that 30 second exposure to the card before it's ready to take another picture. That time it's writing to the card is time wasted where a strike could be happening that I'm missing. You be the judge...if you have a ton of lightning, you may be okay with that. But then again, if you have a ton of lightning, you also may have too much light to do a 30 second exposure.

Settings wise, in my experience at night, F/8 - F/11...ISO of 100 and an exposure of about 10 seconds is usually what I start with and go from there. The more frequent the strikes, the more "exposed" your shot is going to be so you'll have to tweak things while you're out there. Your shot may not look right until a strike lights up the sky. Get yourself a remote trigger and just keep firing over and over again so you don't have any time where you're not shooting.

If I can recommend a good radar app, get RadarScope. It is the best radar app for iOS/Android out there. Yes, it is $10, but I use this while storm chasing as radar in my vehicle. Highly recommend it. It doesn't have lightning data in it, but it will at least tell you if you can stay outside long enough to keep dry. It's the cadillac of radar apps. Of course there are plenty of free alternatives that will do you just fine as well.

Of course, all of this is my camera (a Nikon) and my experience. Yours may vary entirely. I see this shot was F/4, 30 seconds and ISO 100. I think I have a lot more light pollution than you do. :)

I just did a bunch of research on 82mm 10-stop filters. It seemed like in the end the best options were either to spend $150+ on a B+W, Lee etc filter, or go with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNARENC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This product was kickstarted and got great reviews on Amazon and on the web. I mean, it's under $40 so I don't expect perfection but I'd rather spend my money elsewhere than super pricey filters that I will use only on a low % of shots.

As for polarizers, I use a Hoya that is mostly fine. Expensive though. I know someone else with an Amazon basics polarizer that they love - and it's super cheap.

I second the other posters idea to buy a large size and then use step-up rings to fit smaller lenses to it.

The trick here is to use the right shutter speed. I usually use anywhere from 1/4 to 1 full second of exposure depending on the waves. A shorter exposure will let you freeze the action better and the waves will be sharper, more recognizable; a longer exposure time will blur motion to the point that if you use something like 30sec +, it will be all smooth and "cotton candy" like. You will most likely need a neutral density filter to block some of the light, cause even if you use the lowest f stop and ISO, it's still probably gonna be way too bright to use 1/4s exposure.

Another thing to keep in mind is the timing of the waves when you are composing. An incoming wave adds more dynamic to the picture, makes the waves seem more "angry" almost like an explosion; while an outgoing wave like the one I posted here will appear much more peaceful and will give you the fine lines which is great to use as leading lines.

Finally, use burst mode on your camera. Chances are you don't get the position of the waves perfect every time and the composition is off(especially for the incoming waves), so use burst mode and "shoot first, ask later".

>Filter Strength: This really depends on what you're looking to accomplish.

in the past ive tried to take some longer exposures of waterfalls or streams and of course they were completely blown out because it was middle of the day. id like to be able to do some photos like that. current goal is getting a decent shot of the buckingham fountain when i go to chicago in a few weeks as well as maybe some long exposure shots of the rivers.

ive never really got to do this before so i can't say what ill need. 3 seconds sound like more than enough to get a nice blur on a fountain or river, but doesnt seem like enough when shooting an ocean or clouds (but i could be completely wrong).

>Variable ND filters are useful but - again - can be pricey depending on the quality and range of exposures you want to cover. It's up to you to determine if the convenience is worth the $$.

i found a a variable tiffen (2 - 8 stops) on amazon for $90. reviews are mostly positive (some people complain of a black X when using higher stops), its in my price range (barely), and seems more convenient than buying multiple filters or guessing what one filter i actually need.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TFU80I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xZ9fzbNCC90TW

i dont want to spend too much or get anything overly fancy. this is strictly a part time hobby, not trying to go pro or anything. i just want to be able tk take some cool pics when i travel.

I'm a bit in your same situation. I'm going to Iceland for 12 days and going to try and shoot a ton of landscapes with my Canon 60D and Tokina 11-16mm Ultra Wide angle (uses 77mm filters). Here's what I got on a budget from a little digging on Amazon.com:

Tiffen 77mm Circular Polarizer: $144; on sale for $20!

B+W 10 Stop Neutral Density filter: $252; on sale for $100

Tiffen 77mm Neutral Density 0.9 Filter: $99; on sale for $25

Step-up and Step-down rings let you use your pricey filters on your other lenses; saving you lots of $$$!
Fotodiox 7 Metal Step Up Ring Set, Anodized Black Metal 49-52mm, 52-55mm, 55-58mm, 58-62mm, 62-67mm, 67-72mm, 72-77mm: $13.49

Fotodiox 7 Metal Step-Down Ring Set, Anodized Black Metal. 77-72mm, 72-67mm, 67-62mm, 62-58mm, 58-55mm, 55-52mm, 52-49mm: $14.60

Pedco UltraPod II Lightweight Camera Tripod: $16.67 instead of a $100+ Gorillapod

You can go super cheap/artsy and use welding glass as a ND filter: $6 There's lots of easy tutorials on how to fix the color tint of the glass online.

Travel and photography are both amazing yet expensive hobbies. I hope my little list helps you out by saving you a little $ on the photo side; letting you have more $ on the travel side to do and see more... thus getting more amazing shots!

Get a 77mm variable ND filter (it changes strength as you rotate, much like a circular polarizer) and get yourself a series of Step Up Rings to convert from 52mm (which I assume your 30/1.4 is) to 77mm.

The biggest lenses you'll likely ever own are a 70-200mm and a 24-70mm, both of which are 77mm filter threads (at least the Nikkors are), so if you buy filters in that size, you can just get step up rings to adapt your filters to your smaller lenses.

I recommend spending money on nice B+W filters. If taken care of, they'll never ever be obsolete, so you might as well get quality: http://www.amazon.com/77mm-3-0-1-000X-Single-Coating/dp/B003ZDHP7U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347401507&sr=8-1&keywords=B%2BW+77mm+ND

Then buy a set of cheap step up rings that fit your various lenses.

I second HOYA. Very pleased with them for my UV filters.

Eventually i will upgrade my $20 Platinum (BestBuy) CPL to HOYA or BW, but for the moment it is adequate.

I have also been very pleased with my B+W ND1000. It is the first heavy ND filter that is actually neutral enough for me to be happy with. The cheaper ones I tried always had an uncorrectable colour cast. (The B+W is easily correctable.)

Wow, thanks for such a detailed response and one with images you took! I am indeed mainly wanting to use the nd filter for long exposures but I am also kinda interested in using one for keeping up the correct shutter speed while shooting video in high light situations like this video talks about. If I had to pick one or the other though I would definitely pick getting it for long exposure photography since I don't really shoot video that much right now. As for solid nd filters I was looking at the Tiffen 0.9 ND Filter (I also saw that they have a 0.6).

TELESIN GoPro Lens Filter -3Pack ND4 ,ND8 ,ND16 , Neutral Density Lens Filter Kit for GoPro Hero 7 Black Hero 2018 Hero 6 Hero 5 Black, GoPro Camera Lens Accessories (ND 4/8/16) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F193DFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DLY0CbAWSEZC5

Try not to laugh at my extremely amateur comment here, but on amazon I see "starter" kits like these. Is this something that would be good for me to try out considering the price? A lot of the comments talk about a magenta hue being added to the photo, but I'm sure I'll be able to correct that.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UFG6LU2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A25BIGUW7MK12R

I completely understand that these aren't good. And also, do you have any experience with the variable ND filters? I've read some decent reviews of ones such as this Tiffen I will link. But I'm just super worried about vignetting.

http://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-67mm-Variable-ND-Filter/dp/B005TFU80I/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1452240260&sr=1-2&keywords=variable+ND+filter+tiffen

I posted this mainly to showcase my new lens (Kamlan 50mm prime f1.1) which I just recently found out about (and I thought the lens was amazing especially for the price) and the looks of fake anamorphic lenses. I used a filter which had an oval shaped hole (for the oval bokeh effect) and a thin wire vertically down the middle (for the lens flare streak). I also recently got an ND filter which is great with the high speed lens so I can keep a very shallow depth of field during the day.

Overall I think this setup I have going on is awesome and great if you’re on a budget.

Here are the links to everything:

[Kamlan Lens - 50mm prime f1.1]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTBNBK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rS85BbNM25A4A)

[Anamorphic Lens Filter]
(https://www.vid-atlantic.com/products/cinemorph)

[Variable ND Filter]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JL4IN50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_i5vNeCpM6rfD6)

Generally, don't buy those kits, they're terrible. C-POL is a very useful filter and it's better to have a solid glass in front of your lenses - why degrade your image quality, right? Tiffen is fine, best ones are brands like Hoya and B+W, which are also pretty expensive thanks to the quality of the glass.

This is a great review that will also teach you a little about what to expect and look for in the filters:

http://www.lenstip.com/115.1-article-Polarizing_filters_test.html

I would be more willing to compromise on the ND filter, especially something like ND1000 for experimenting with long shutter speeds because it's a really niche thing and as a beginner, there's probably no need to drop hundred bucks just to play with it.

I found solid test reviews on this 'non brand' so I ordered it for fun but my C-POL is from B+W for example:

http://www.amazon.com/ND1000-Filter-Neutral-Density-Optical/dp/B00GMXD9E8/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1452676574&sr=1-1&keywords=ice+nd+filter

I use this 10 stop filter:

http://www.amazon.com/ND1000-Filter-Neutral-Density-Optical/dp/B00GMXD9E8

It's possible I got an exceptionally good copy, but it is good for the price.

One tip I have is to take your cheap filters and make sure you're not using auto white balance. DSLRs have a pretty hard time figuring out white balance sometimes for long exposures. Lock down white balance and see if the color cast is still present.

After doing more research - should I be getting a variable ND filter or a solid non-variable ND filter? Or a polarizing one?

In terms of brands, i'm looking at Fotga like the one /u/TheOmega3368 has, or:

• Gobe
  
• Tiffen
  
• Polaroid
  
  Anyone have experience with any of these variable ND filters and can recommend a brand? Again, would like it to be inexpensive, $30 or under!
  
  Thanks!
  
  

> Why is the 25mm f1.7 not optimal if shooting in manual settings?

It is a focus-by-wire lens with no distance marks on the focus ring. Plus, it lacks a manual aperture ring, so you have to set the aperture with the camera.

> can you recommend a good ND filter to maintain shallow DOF?

The [$22.99 K&F Concept 67mm Variable ND] (https://www.amazon.com/Concept-Variable-Neutral-Adjustable-Cleaning/dp/B00JL4INW8//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Link] (with the appropriate step up ring for your lens) is a very good value for your money.

Again, hope this is helpful!

The ones that I've seen most recommended are the Lee Big Stoppers. They'e not cheap and you have to buy filter holders. But they can be used on pretty much any lens so you won't have to buy more than one for different sized threads.

If you want a cheaper one, then stick to the big brands like Hoya and Tiffen. But even these aren't what you'd call inexpensive.

I have some and I love them.

I heard so too but I was not about to buy and expensive one to start off. I went with a somewhat cheap but not the cheapest I could find. It seems not to have any antireflective coatings, but I’m not too worried about that. I’ve been pretty happy with the results.

K&F Concept 58mm Slim Variable Fader ND2-ND400 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JL4IN50?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Are you looking at the square filters with a holder and set of adapter rings, such as these? Or singular, circle filters like these?

If you're looking at square filter systems, you'll just need a holder, filters (all of which are a standard 100mm size), and the adapter rings which connect your lens to the filter holder. You can then transfer the holder with the same filters to each of your lenses.

If you're looking at single, circle filters, they come in a variety of sizes and this is when you should buy the one that fits your largest lens a set of step-up/adapter rings. Having said that, I don't think I've ever seen a filter that's sold with the rings included like you mentioned?

If you're new to ND filters, spend a good amount of time considering which method you'd prefer and which brand to go with. It's always worth spending more on a good set of filters "for life" than buying cheaper ones, as you'll often find they colour-cast and can ruin your images. Well known and respected brands include Tiffen, Lee, Cokin Z Series, Hoya, B+W etc.

If the B&W filters are too pricy, I’d highly recommend the ICE ND1000. It’s a fantastic filter for the price, with minimal converting and great sharpness for the price.

The nikon 77mm CPL goes for $149 on amazon and is really good.

Take a look at the B+W ND filter. I don't have it, but it is highly rated and B+W has a good name.

Here is the B+W graduated ND filter. Also good.

Here's the one I got. . I'm pretty sure this is just the standard ND filter. This way I can take a 20-30 second exposure on a sunny day and get that really cool "blending" of the water and or clouds effect.

I can't speak to the tubes, but the Dolica GX650B204 tripod and ICE ND filters seem to be frequently recommended for their quality and value. I own each of these (well, the shorter version of the tripod and the 10-stop filter) and have been very pleased.

You have a bit more gear than the average person "getting in to it". But, I understand. I would recommend this ND filter. I use mine on my 70-200 f/2.8 and my 24-70 f/2.8. It takes some awesome daytime long exposure shots. And, its B+W, so you know its good.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012LO1UG/

I'm using an 18-140mm lens with Nikon D5500. I want to buy an ND filter for the lens. This seems like a good one, since I'm not looking for a variable ND filter. My question is:

1. How do I select the diameter for the ND filter? As in, which one should I get for 18-140?
   
2. In case anyone has used this product, is it worth the money?
   
3. If not, what are some recommended ones around this budget?

I am looking for some advice on Neutral Density Filters.

I know what they do, but I am lost on whether to buy a variable, or a set of them. I have looked at some of the costs for variables, and at this time the only one I would feel comfortable purchasing is this one which will go up to 9 stops.

I was also looking at this set which will do 2,3 & 4 stops.

With no past experience with them, I am hoping someone can give me some insight. I know there are far better (and more expensive) versions, but for now I would just like to test the waters.

You can use a neutral density filter. Neutral density means grey, as opposed to having a distinct colour like blue, or red.

*Edit: Here's a decent one to increase expsosure by 6 stops. Note the thread diameter, which will be printed on your lens. There are loads of sizes and darknesses to choose from.

Other than being darkened, it doesn't interfere with the photo at all, it just leads to longer exposure times. Why?

If this image had been shot with an exposure time of anything over, say, 10 seconds, it's very unlikely any people would show up on the photo.

At a pinch, you can use a polariser to increase your exposure by about 2 stops, so from 1/4 to a whole second, from a second to four seconds or thereabouts.

If you're wanting photos void of people wandering around, this is definitely a good way to do it.

I actually used a really cheap-o Ice brand ND filter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNARENC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Since I needed an 82mm thread I didn't want to pay $150+ for a legit one so I gave the Ice brand a chance. It has really surprised me and been great!

There are some variable ND filter options that fit your price range. Those are a good place to start. With a variable ND, you rotate the ring to control how much light is filtered out. These go well above ND32.

K&F seems to be a decent budget brand. One of the photography vloggers I watch has started reviewing their stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JL4IN50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_zMnDzbTPY7EZZ

If you eventually decide to get serious with filters, I'd suggest looking into plate filter systems, such as Formatt Hitech instead of pricy $80 round filters. These systems are somewhat expensive, but are designed to fit all your lenses using adapter rings. They open up a world of ND grads, which are useful for shooting high-contrast landscape scenes.

Generally, 85mm systems are economical and suited to crop sensors, but the 100mm systems are really needed if you want to shoot with ultra-wide lenses.

I've wanted to get into correction and grading for a while now, so I figured I'd try it. However, I've heard before that you want to shoot as flat as possible, so that when you're in post, it's as exploitable as possible, right? That's what I was going for with the Natural profile.

Yeah, the whole aperture 22 thing was because 1) I already had my ISO as low as it could go (200), 2) I wanted to stick to the shutter speed/fps rule, and 3) the only thing left to adjust was the aperture. At anywhere under like 18 aperture, I was overexposing a lot, so I thought that was my only option, to adjust aperture.

I've heard of ND filters before and I've seen some before/afters, they actually look quite brilliant. Is this one fine? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GFW1C0/

This is totally cool. Looking at this image makes my brain hurt a bit however, trying to comprehend the angle that I'm seeing. I don't necessarily dislike that aspect, perhaps it helps, or perhaps I wonder if taking the image more level might help me out.

Nice exposure and framing for sure. I like the natural frame provided naturally on 3 sides by the walls and rails.

In another part of the thread, you mentioned waiting for people to leave. I've never tried it, but a trick you can use is a strong neutral density filter to get exposure times up by many factors (a decent kit appears to be a 6 stop and 10 stop, stackable). Then, as people or other objects move, they disappear. Of course the obvious downside is if the trolley is moving too, it will be blurry. However, that could be fixed by taking 2 exposures (one at a normal exposure) and merging the images with photoshop or similar.

Here's a good article.

What about a simple Tiffen ND9 for $27?

Also, I get that you want to advise for the absolute best but honestly, dude is 17 and I don't imagine has the most stringent of image quality concerns ala theatrical distribution / 4K, so what harm is there in learning on a cheap filter?

To get smooth (not choppy) motion, i.e. the motion blur that the human eye sees as "natural", you want your shutter speed to try to be half as fast as your framerate, also known as the 180 Degree Rule.

If you're filming in 30 frames-per-second, you would want 1/60 shutter speed. At this relatively "slow" shutter speed, you will get nice blur with any movement.

If you were filming in 30fps and had a shutter speed of 1/800, your footage will look really choppy and unnatural.

Since you're slowing down your shutter speed for the 180-degree rule, you'll be getting more light. To get a proper exposure, you'll have to decrease your ISO or your aperture.

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If you want to get a nice shallow depth-of-field look at low apertures (f/1.5-2.8), you can't increase your aperture value without overexposing, and your ISO will hit the bottom value. To compensate for this in photography, you would simply increase your shutter speed. BUT, since this creates choppy movement in video, that's where you need to look into ND filters to properly expose your image with a 180-Degree shutter, normal ISO, open aperture, and a ND filter.

I recommend the Tiffen Variable ND's.

I'm looking to get a 10-stop ND before a trip to Iceland next month. Taking 3 lenses all Canon (16-35, 24-70, 70-200). Two are 82mm and one is 77mm filter size.

My question is: I have experience using screw on ND filters, but had been considering going with a filter holder and using 100mm square glass. In pricing everything out, this seems like a MUCH more expensive option. If I decide to forego the use of Grad ND and stick only to standard ND, would a single 82mm 10-stop ND and a 77mm step down ring do everything I need? It's like 1/5th the price unless I'm pricing this wrong.

Looking at this screw on ND ($30) based on feedback and sample images: http://www.amazon.com/ND1000-Filter-Neutral-Density-Optical/dp/B00GNARENC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463711813&sr=8-1&keywords=10+stop+ND+82mm

As opposed to Cokin Z Holder ($75) FotoDiox 82mm adapter ($25) and same brand of 4"x4" ND ($50).

Lastly, any recommendations for a decent polarizer in either 82mm or that fit a holder if I go that route?

Your only choices are not square filters or variable. Standard round ND filters work as well.

https://www.amazon.com/ND1000-Filter-Neutral-Density-Optical/dp/B00GMXD9E8/

$30 bucks for those on a budget...

Or https://www.amazon.com/Filter-ND1000-Neutral-Density-Optical/dp/B073YGJ7L5 $60 for a 3 stop, a 6 stop and a 10 stop. Great for a budget shooter

And since you are on this anti square filter crusade, throwing it in as a budget option as well - https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Complete-Filter-Kit-Cokin/dp/B00UFG6LU2/

$30 for 8 filters, and the holder... Looks like it would fit on a budget...

A good 150mm rectangular filter is going to blow about your entire budget.

One can make a filter holder by cutting out a sponge and spray painting it black with the remaining $5.

I haven't the faintest idea why every filter holder is $150-$300. It's some machine shopped aluminum, should be $30.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the 17-40 is a 77mm screw front. That's a very common size and therefore a decent investment, should be easy to find a circular filter for ~$50-80. I'd recommend B+W 10 stop for $60.

I just do photography as a side hobby, but the ICE ND1000 filter has suited my needs very well at a pretty reasonable price. I don't know how it compares to the expensive ones though.


ICE 77mm ND1000 Filter Neutral Density ND 1000 77 10 Stop Optical Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GMXD9E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Un9AybKCJVXK0

Here you go.

The better the polarizing filters that it's made from, the better the results.

https://www.amazon.ca/Gobe-46mm-Variable-Lens-Filter/dp/B01F5BUYB8/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=46mm+nd+filter&qid=1563080752&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

This is the best quality to price Variable ND in terms of cheap filters.

Tiffen 77mm Variable Neutral... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004Z55VP0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I have this one and it’s great

I ended up getting a B+W 77mm ND 3.0-1,000X. I've been very happy with it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZDHP7U/ref=pe_62860_33420350_email_1p_1_ti

I shoot documentary/brand/lifestyle films for larger brands. I use the Leica branded 42.5 f1.2 more than any other lens. The duel OIS works soooo good and I use it with this variable ND filter on the end so I can get nice soft focus in the sun: https://www.amazon.com/Concept-Variable-Neutral-Adjustable-Cleaning/dp/B00JL4INW8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1W4IUG6OVS758&keywords=variable+nd+filter+67mm&qid=1550705847&s=gateway&sprefix=variable+nd+filter+67%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-3

I really like the colors. Getchu a ten stop. Adds a lot of interest to otherwise 'subjectless' landscapes. I just got one and love it.

https://www.amazon.com/ND1000-Filter-Neutral-Density-Optical/dp/B00GMXD9E8

or

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1191683-REG/ice_ice_nd1000_z_z_pro_series_nd1000_solid.html?ap=y&c3api=1876%2C%7Bcreative%7D%2C%7Bkeyword%7D&gclid=CjwKCAjwypjVBRANEiwAJAxlIpTNHyZpLYy30Y7ofYvA7Ykh6VmhIgV0498U2po48Qznpwf8t6Z-UhoCV0UQAvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B00JL4INW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_00HFDb3E3WV49

This is the one I used but the light there was also dark enough to not use it. I don’t know if I really like the filter yet, I think I’d prefer a fixed non variable one

You get what you pay for, those are to put it frankly not what you want to use.

These are what you want to use, the results if used correctly are amazing:

http://www.amazon.com/ND-3-0-1000x-Neutral-Density-Filter/dp/B0012LO1UG

Thanks very much

It's a Tiffen ND9 I purchased from Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-52mm-Neutral-Density-Filter/dp/B00004ZCB5/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1324350095&sr=8-4

How much do you want to spend (say, $5-$100) and how future-proofed do you want to be (tiny filter that fits kit vs giant filter that you can adapt to other lenses in future)?

You need a 46mm ND to cut half a stop of ND. Believe it or not, in my brief Googling I had trouble finding a filter at a good price that would achieve that ND at that price, so instead...

This is what I use: a Fotga slim fader ND. Not as a precise, but inexpensive, of good quality, and more versatile.

http://www.amazon.com/FOTGA-Variable-Adjustable-Neutral-Density/dp/B009GFW1C0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1451149570&sr=8-4&keywords=fotga+fader+nd

I would get a large 77mm filter and just buy step-down rings for your lens as needed. That way, if you ever want to upgrade your 18-55 you'll be able to keep using that 77mm filter.

The setup would look like this:

77mm ND Filter > screws onto this 77mm to 58mm step-down ring > screws onto your 18-55 lens.

So if you end up buying a new lens in the future, say the Canon 10-18, you can just buy a different 77mm to 67mm step down ring and use it with that new lens.

As for what filter to get, that depends. They can range anywhere from $50 (for a budget one) all the way to $400+ for a full filter system. The $30 ICE filter I linked does surprisingly well as an intro-budget ND filter if you just want dabble with its effects.

If you're just an average photographer, try a variable ND filter.

https://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-Variable-Neutral-Density-77VND/dp/B004Z55VP0

That one is almost too large, but if you get somethig like a 72mm, and use a step up ring, you can use it on most lenses that you will get.

This one. Thanks!

I use my Fuji for a lot of video work so I have a lot of experience with variable NDs. In my experience, the best one to get (for the price) is the Tiffen Variable ND. I also have a GenusTech variable ND/polarizer that I love and is fantastic, but also really expensive (about $250 I believe) and kind of hard to find apparently. I bought mine from The Camera Store in Calgary.

Your choice, it won't make a difference to the image, but if you think you'll ever buy a bigger lens get the bigger nd. I have this one and it works well.

Pretty much anything by Tiffen will be suitable. For example, a ND 0.9 (3 stops reduction) 52mm filter is $15. (Different sizes here.) Tiffen are not expensive because the color comes from plastic laminated between glass - but that also means they're far more consistent and neutral than more expensive stained glass models.

Also: Know that there are several different grades of ND filters, typically 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9 (the number refers to the proportion of light they cut out) - and that a graduated neutral density filter is something completely different.

Also #2: obviously buy the size that fits your camera (the filter size of the lens is marked with a "∅" symbol, so it might read "∅52" meaning 52mm); and if you have a range of lenses, consider buying for the largest size you'll need (say, 77mm) - then getting a step-up ring so your smaller lens can mount the larger filter.

Also #3: if you're a seriously dedicated professional who'll be using filters daily, consider one of the larger square filter systems - but the cost of entry is considerably more than $50.

This ND filter is cheap ($24) and works very well: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNBHZR6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I have no complaints about it! I took this with it: http://i.imgur.com/K90hfvO.jpg

No issues with color cast or sharpness!

I have this Hoya CPL ($30) for my 58mm filters: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KL7J3A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

No complaints, works amazing.

And this Tiffen CPL ($36) for my 77mm filter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004ZCI3?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I love it.

Yep, a B+W 0.9 ND Filter

10 stop ND filter

They are ridiculously fun to play around with.

Heh.

As someone who read this thread after picking up a cheap ($20) variable ND lens, this image makes a lot of sense. I was toying around with long exposures for the first time and I was wondering why I saw those weird patterns and whatnot. It wasn't entirely consistent so fortunately it was a bit better towards the ends of the spectrum, but there wasn't really a nice middle ground. If I ever get more serious about needing a ND filter, I'll definitely be getting a higher quality one.

Filter for reference: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GFW1C0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Couldn't agree more… I love pretty much any lens I put on my GH4, especially in 4K mode.

I have a Tiffin 8 stop variable and I love it!

I still wouldn't mind getting my hands on an A7s for its lowlight, but I wouldn't trade my GH4 for anything!

https://amzn.com/B00GMXD9E8 for the 77mm for $30, they have different sizes, though. I think I paid $22 or so for 49mm. That's on USA Amazon, otherwise search for "ICE ND1000 filter" and you should probably be able to find it.

If you're looking for a screw-in filter, B+W is the way to go. Just make sure you get the size that fits your lens. Never really had any color casting issues with it, even on their ND 3.0 filter. Personally, I find myself using a ND 1.8 more often though I have both. There are also drop-in filters like those made by Lee, which come highly regarded but are leaps and bounds more expensive. Multi-coating is nice to have, but more important for polarizers than filters. It really depends on how much you're willing to spend. I have no idea what a "hot mirror" is, but I'm thinking that you're referring to a hot sensor or hot pixels. When you take long exposures, with an ND filter for example, the sensor will continue to heat up as long as the shutter is open. Hot sensors produce more noise, which hurts overall image quality. Any filter you put in front your lens is going to have some adverse affects on your image, most of which can be easily fixed in post processing. Contrast, tones, and all that can be adjusted in Lightroom after the fact.

I have an Ice 10 stop ND that's been working pretty well for me. There is some slight color shifting but other than that nothing too noticeable. But you can fix that in post.

This is the one I used for this picture. It does change the color cast of your image but you can fix it in lightroom. https://www.amazon.com/ND1000-Filter-Neutral-Density-Optical/dp/B00GMXD9E8

Check out Ice ND filters.

https://www.amazon.com/ND1000-Filter-Neutral-Density-Optical/dp/B00GMXD9E8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467656677&sr=8-1&keywords=ice+nd+filter

https://www.amazon.com/Concept-Variable-Neutral-Adjustable-Cleaning/dp/B00JL4INW8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=67mm+nd+filter+variable&qid=1568628673&sprefix=67mm+nd+&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzU00xWEcxVDZaTjBEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODY5MDkzMjVKM1QxNFUxUjlNRiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjA5MzQ1MU9OVTRCWkhHNzRGTyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

neutral density filter go pro

https://www.amazon.com/TELESIN-Filter-Neutral-Density-Accessories/dp/B07F193DFQ

Will this work https://www.amazon.com/Concept-Variable-ND2-ND400-Adjustable-100-300mm/dp/B00JL4IN50/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525185269&sr=8-3&keywords=variable+ND+58mm#customerReviews

Link to the camera that OP used for this picture.

Link to the filter that OP used for this picture.

Edit: As requested: Link to the 10mm lens that OP used for this picture.

I have this and it works wonderfully.

Here is a shot with it.

For long exposure of waterfalls I've used this ICE ND filter with it's ridiculous 10-stop. I used it to get this waterfall pic. You can get by with less, say an 8 or 6 stop. At 10 stops I could do crazy 30 second or more exposures, but that isn't at all necessary for most waterfalls. (Edit: If you order that filter be sure to match the size to your lens, I just pulled up the one for the 40-150 pro size of 77mm)

>expensive ND-filter


ehhhh, they're not so bad. I have one of these which when stopped to F18 or so lets me get 20-25 second exposures in broad daylight.

a variable nd filter so you can change the darkness of it
https://www.amazon.com/Concept-Variable-ND2-ND400-Adjustable-100-300mm/dp/B00JL4IN50/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517965808&sr=8-3&keywords=variable+nd+filter

I have had no issues with my Tiffen ND filter and I have been using it for around 6 months.

http://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-77mm-Neutral-Density-Filter/dp/B00004ZCIC

43$ shipped

I used the b+w 10 stop ND http://www.amazon.co.uk/77mm-Neutral-Density-Filter-Stops/dp/B003ZDHP7U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376313787&sr=8-2&keywords=10+stop+nd+filter

I bought this one for $30. When you cheap out, you lose a lot of sharpness, but if you're only going to use it once, it does a decent enough job. Here are a couple of images I captured using it.

There is nothing wrong with your tripod head.

This is high shutter speed stutter. There is no motion blur at all in your footage, which causes the image to stutter, especially since you shot at 24 fps.

What shutter speed was this shot at? You should be around 1/50th of a second at 24fp. My guess is that you didn't put an neutral density filter on your lens and you were forced to shoot around 1/240th of a second. I never go over 1/100th unless I intentionally want stuttering footage.

Invest in some ND filters. A 0.9 will usually do the trick.

Also, you can try using the highest f-stop on your lens to try to get the shutter speed below 1/100 s.

Edit: I downloaded your files. There is something wrong with your export or sequence settings. The original MOV file plays much smoother. Your "Source Video" has duplicate frames, effectively making it 18fps, which means there is an incorrect frame rate setting, likely in your timeline, since both videos show 23.98fps. What are your timeline settings?

Edit 2: Since your frame rate has reduced by 6fps, (from 24 to 18), it looks like you edited 24p footage in a 30p timeline and then exported at 24p. Definitely check your timeline frame rate.

I want to buy an ND filter for daytime long exposures, but can't decide on what to get.

At first, variable ND filters made sense - because they would enable me to shoot wide open in daily shots, besides long exposures. I'm a hobbyist, so the little degradation in quality with vari-NDs wouldn't have mattered, but the x pattern issue really discouraged me from wanting one.

Anyway, I can't decide between these three ND filters:
Hoya
B+W
Another, more expensive B+W - what's the difference between this and the previous one?

And here were the vari-NDs I was considering:
Tiffen
*Light Craft Workshop

As I said, I don't think the vari-NDs are for me.. but which of the other 3 would you recommend? Any loss in sharpness and contrast? Any color casting?

I would not prefer to go up to the pricey B+W's range of $150, but if there's a big difference in image quality compared to the other two, I just may choose that one.