Reddit mentions: The best novelty lighting

These are just some tidbits I’ve learned along the road from other more smarter people than myself.

I know people like the Sapphire version of the 5700XT. Newegg is selling Ryzen 3600 for $190 if you didn’t buy it already.

Also, the G502 is $35 right now on sale at Best Buy if you didn’t buy it already/have it already.

Should be cheaper 3200 memory maybe? I haven’t checked PCPartPicker unless you’re looking for a certain aesthetic.

I actually got the Phanteks P300 (but I had to return it since I went all the way to a Mini ITX) and it was pretty awesome and weirdly small for an ATX case. People here love the Meshify C, but it’s more expensive. H500 is also good. I liked the P300 even though it’s airflow is ok. I loved the accent lighting. The Specific LED string light kit for the case is like $17 on Amazon if you’re interested later on down the line. Link.

I don’t know monitors that well, but I’ve always liked that one.

Here is a nice general GPU list at where they stand at performance. The 5700XT is usually 1080p 144hz I think. To utilize the better resolution, I think you have to bump up. Might want to fact check this.

Just to make sure. I was wondering why the air flow was so low on those fans and it’s because they’re silent. Just making sure that’s what you’re going for. There are much stronger fans for that price that aren’t silent.

I also have the 1T Intel and if you were able to get it for 90 (I think it’s on sale for 85 right now on Newegg), I would say it’s worth it over a $115 TLC drive like the Sabrent or HP at that price.

I’m also a fan of onboard WiFi. I have a (well rated) WiFi dongle on my PC that is garbage compared to the onboard WiFi I have on a super old 2012 PC. I wanna say I see that X570 on sale a lot despite it just coming out. I could be crazy though. Probably.

Just some things I noticed to make sure all is well. Good luck with everything!

well, generally speaking the more you decide to care about aesthetics, the more money you'll need to be willing to shell out. but honestly, i think you can do the LEDs cheaper than you're expecting.

first, RGB LEDs definitely get up in the 20+ range fast, but if you drop the RGB you can get them way cheaper. if you drop the color you might be able to get them even cheaper! i mean heck, at this point the LED strip is cheaper than the fans you're buying.

not to mention you can definitely take just one of those strips and chop it up into the individual pieces you need if you're willing to do a little wiring, so you would only need to buy one of them. wiring them into the case has the added bonus of meaning you don't necessarily need a remote control to turn them on/off (just unplug them if you want them off), so you dont have to worry about whether the cheaper LED kits come with one or not. i know there are also some LED strip kits designed specifically for things like computer cases that are already broken up into a few different sections for you as well - at a glance i'm not really seeing any on amazon, i'm sure you could find them if you were interested.

case fans definitely aren't the kind of thing you should count on reselling of trading in for much value, but it's always nice to have some extra fans if you're getting into building. before you know it you'll be helping your friend with a build or building a new rig for yourself, or one of your fans will die or something and you'll be happy you have a backup - even if you have a good "lol" at that fan having purple LEDs that dont fit the current theme, it's great to have a functional fan until you can purchase a replacement.

a solid mechanical keyboard is something you can definitely count on being able to trade in for value down the road, but i'm not particularly familiar with either of the boards you're talking about so just do your research before you pull the trigger on one.

Not a professional by any means, but I'll answer to the best of my ability.

1. the motherboard has wifi on it (it's on the top with the two screw ins like a coaxial cable). In the box will have two small antennas which you'll screw them in and should have Wi-Fi then.
   
   
2. RAM looks compatible, looks good (highly recc G Skillz Trident-Z, good brand)
   
   
3. iprofixit toolkit: https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Pro-Tech-Toolkit/IF145-307-4?gclid=CjwKCAjw0oveBRAmEiwAzf6_rAYymiWQaies8QBB6z3XvDSZBq3lkAe58uCfUt9mKSn_NXwbBS2xKxoCT-UQAvD_BwE
   
   
4. if you have a good corner, a good L desk is sweet. They're very nice especially if you like to have space for anything while being on the computer (like homework, accessories, etc...)
   
   
5. You do not, most graphics cards have 1 Display port (which you connect Monitor #1 too) and a few more HDMI slots (like 2-3) to plug in your alternate monitors :)
   
   
6. the case looks solid, and as long as it fits your motherboard + Power Supply Unit, everything should fit all snug.
   
   
7. there's quite a few good recommendations, I would rec this:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQS65BM/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_.ZcXBbS1EBEQE
   
   
   If you have any more questions, i'd be glad to answer them :^)

Yay! I'm so excited that you're getting your own place! That's such a good feeling!

/u/Pinalope4Real and /u/dnd1980

Startup an excel spreadsheet and make a budget for yourself. I find that once I have a budget setup I pay even more attention to my money and figure out new ways to save. I have helped my roommate and my boyfriend setup a budget. :o)

The meat market can save you sooo much money and make you more conscious about the items you are buying and motivate you to cook more.

Crockpots are awesome and help you save time during the week. I know you work from home, but ready-made food throughout the week is awesome!

The Magic Bullet or Nutribullet are both great to have in the home for smoothies! Of course you can blend other items in the cups as well.

I have this Himalayan Salt Lamp and I love it. I also have this Himalayan Salt Candle Holder....actually everything I'm linking you is something that I own and love, something I have experience with, or a similar model (the crock pot was a random model) lol


Oh and this tea because it's delicious.

Okay so you have a few options. You could pick up some of the Corsair LL120 fans and use those. However you’d need the controller that comes with some of their multi packs. I think the 3 pack with controller is quite expensive. So that may not be an option immediately. But those fans are amazing. If you went this route, you’d put one on the rear, and the other 2 on the top. But this would cause a pretty heavy pressure imbalance, so you’d want to get 2 more normal fans and put them up front.

Alternatively, Phanteks makes a product called the ‘Halos’ which are RGB fan frames which can be placed on virtually any fan. They’re fairly cost effective, considering they can be swapped to a different fan, and they work with MSI mystic light, which is the RGB controller for the motherboard.

The case has a closed front panel, so you don’t need rgb fans for the front. I’d say just the rear and/or top would be the only ones you’d want rgb. The case comes with 2 120mm fans, one in the front and one in the rear. The cpu cooler comes with 1 120mm fan. So, if you fit the rad in the rear, you could put the fan that’s included and add that to the front. Then put the fan frame on the rear fan.

Phanteks also makes an awesome little rgb strip kit It’s available on amazon. It works with the fan frames, and is magnetic making install and placement real easy.

Idk, honestly just shop around figure out how much you want to spend. The case could definitely use some better cooling, especially up front. So if you can move all the stock fans you’ll have to front, and then for the rear rad fan (and top if you get them) you’d use the rgb fans, that would be a great move. Just remember most rgb fans are proprietary, and only work with their brands software, or a specific software.

Sure!

So, here are the parts/products I used (all from Amazon, and available for Prime delivery):

• Lights
  
  
• Power supply
  
  
• Jumpers/connectors
  
  
• Wire (for linking cases to same remote & power source)
  
  (And, of course, Michaels Baseball Bat Cases)
  
  [Images are linked for appropriate descriptions below]
  
  First thing was finding the proper distance between the cases for mounting on the wall -- I've seen a ton of other folks doing these in different ways, but the one thing that always bugged me was not taking advantage of using the case as a shelf also, and just doing one right under/over the other, and not leaving room to display other things (like the in-box ones I have there)... plus, it solves the next issue:
  
  I wanted to use the same power & control for both cases (and have them linked together), but not have wires showing to link them... If I wasn't a renter, and knew this could be a permanent fixture, I would've popped holes in the wall to hide the cables, but since that's not an option, I used the in-box pops to hide the wire that runs from the bottom case to the one on top. I'm sure there are a number of other ways to accomplish the same thing, but this seemed like the best solution for me. Personally, I didn't care for the look of the LEDs running along the sides or the top of the cases, so I only ran a strip along the bottom of each case, saving some lights for some other random project down the road.
  
  So, in both cases, I drilled holes into both of the back bottom corners, and then Dremel-ed one of them a bit to allow the main power supply link/adapter to fit inside the case (it's about a 1/2" across in rectangular shape).
  
  The power comes from the wall below, which is behind a larger cube storage shelf, and the cable that leads into the bottom right of the lower case is 'hidden' behind that in-box Tony Stark.
  
  I wired up the bottom case first, and at the end of the strip, set up a jumper from the strip to the extension cable, and threaded enough to reach the top case, which connects to the other strip, running in the opposite direction. Eventually, there'll be a third case above these, which is why I drilled the extra hole in the other corner of the top case, to be prepped for another extension wire to run to the third (once I pick another one up and figure out what to fill it with).
  
  ...That more or less covers it, I think. :)
  
  Feel free to hit me up if you want any other info or pics, etc. It was frustrating at first, trying to figure out the easiest way to do what I had envisioned in my head, but it worked out in the end, so I'm pleased.
  
  Good luck with yours!
  
  edit: formatting

Done, took about 3 hours. Was alot easier than I thought it was going to be, and I have alot of things i'm going to change if/when I do it over again. The 2 biggest issues are the dimmer in the bottom, it works great but next time i'm going to put it out of sight out of the case, it works for now and doesn't look too bad. Next, I wired the whole thing in series, like a zigzag, so you might notice that the top shelf is dimmer than the bottom shelf. Frankly, this is good enough for me, but next time i'm going to run one wire, acting as a sort of wire harness, the brightness difference is pretty noticeable, but still looks good, I regret not doing it this time but ehhhhhh. I don't know much about electrical so I wasn't even thinking about this when I was doing it, it's an easy fix for next time or when I re-do this one, live and learn. The bottom 2 shelves are essentially place holders, all of those figures will be moving out soon to make room for more scales, and I have the rest of the keions coming in a few days. For a first time 3 Hour DIY, I think it's pretty good but it definitely has it's issues, what do you think?

I've only been collecting for about 8 months or so, I frequent buyfag threads and post updates on my MFC, this is my first time posting myself here.

I was going for budget and simplicity (in reality the wiring harness is easier and provides power more efficiently, whoops), I cut out half of my soldering with the corner connectors. Parts I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RYSHQQ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QTCBZ4I

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074WCMRXL

LED Ropes are almost always garbage. Plus, a lot of them use incandescent (like small xmas tree lights) bulbs on AC instead of actual LEDs running DC (which can make it portable, whenever necessary).

The first question I'd ask you is how "cool" do you want it to be? I don't mean color temperature, I mean are you just looking for a plane white source that can be switched off and on? Or would you be wanting it to do multiple colors (even multiple colors on each LED, as opposed to the whole thing lighting a single color at a time)?

Originally, these were/are designed to be backlit from a set of long CFL bulbs like you'd see in a corporate office setup. The bulbs are fairly energy efficient, cheap, and don't produce "hot spots" (where you can directly see a light source, or its shadow, through the sign) nearly as much as LEDs or Halogen/Incandescent.

All that said, I'd recommend one of the following three methods:

1. Go to Home Depot or even Harbor Freight and buy a fluorescent bulb setup with the lamp and the bulb and mount it on the wall and hang the sign over it. Possibly cheapest solution, definitely the easiest and will look good but won't offer any extra features beyond off and on.
   
   
2. Buy an RGB LED 5M strip kit that comes with a remote, or something like this if you want some music reactivity. Then line your letters (LEDs faceing either "inward" toward the wall, or at a right angle perpendicular to that so that the LEDs point toward the inside of the letter's white area) with the LED strip, cut if needed, and add a white backdrop for better reflectivity and to soften any hot spots; just use cheap MDF or whatever scrap wood you have laying around.
   
   
3. Buy something like an ESP8266, an amplified electret mic, 5V PSU, and a strip (or string!) of WS2812b (or APA102's, if you can afford them!) LEDs and program that sucker any which way you'd like! You can even use visualization software like JINX! or GLEDiator to send data to the ESP8266 and have it output to the strips in realtime. This obviously will take some learning, if you aren't already familiar with Arduino and the like, but the whole system is designed for beginners.
   
   Best of luck!

The case is awesome! The SSD's and HDD's hide in the back. The case has a quality feel to it. The buttons on front? I don't really pay much attention to. The power button lights up, and the front panel has built in LEDs that light up too and you can select the color from like 12 colors. It includes an LED strip and that plugs into that front panel switch so your case will match. Personally, I'd get the adapter and plug it into your mobo's RGB Header. That way you'll have full 14 million color control instead of just 12 colors. Asus Aura runs RGB beautifully!

Find the adapter here

Or spend 10 more bucks and get the adapter plus 2 more LED strips here

The fan control switch is weird. There is no indicator as to the speed, so you just have to feel it out. Since I put in the Z370-E Mobo, I've been meaning to actually hook my 3 Corsair exhaust fans up to the Mobo, just haven't gotten around to it yet. I might actually connect them to CAM, but first I have to see if that is even possible.

Honestly, if you've got a color scheme in mind, go for the RGB Ram. I didn't even want to do RGB with mine, I just liked the case. I thought I'd do a simple purple. I liked where it was headed, so I bought the LED exhaust fans, and halo'd the Kraken Rad fans.

With Asus Aura, each RAM stick actually has 5 color zones you can modify independently.

Plus it comes with a really sweet door hanger to let mom know when you're gaming or not! Christ, it would be nice to spend three grand on a pc and not be treated like a 14 year old lol.

Ask away man! I enjoy talking about this stuff.

Yes! I get smell proof baggies from the headshop but you can order them online and in my opinion they work really well. Then you can hide your weed in creative places and it won’t smell, I put mine in the compartment one of these salt lamps. There’s a gap where the bulb goes but you can fit a few grams in there, screw the lid on the bottom and put it on your nightstand, no one would ever think to look there. Just don’t plug it lmao you don’t want to cook your weed.

I figured this hiding place out myself I think (I mean I’m sure SOMEONE else has done it but for me it’s my thing), so it’s not one of the places that will come up if you google “where do teens hide weed”. Not too worried about sharing my secret here though, definitely wanna help y’all out.

Once you get smell proof bags the possibilities are endless so just find little places your parents or roommates or whoever you live with won’t look and I’m sure you’ll be good!

As a beginner, you might be best to go with an Arduino board (probably the Arduino Pro, found on Amazon and the like) but you'll have to learn programming for Arduino (basically programming in C), which is super easy in programming land but you'll have to actually sit down and learn it to be able to use it properly. You'll also need a bit of soldering handiwork to mount and wire up the pushbutton and Neopixels to the Arduino. If you haven't done soldering before, you'd be best to practice that first as well.

Tell you what - you're probably best to go with one of those off-the-shelf remote-control LED strands. They won't go in a circle (though they can all fade in and out together), but they can change color and brightness using a remote control.

https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Flexible-Controller/dp/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483914018&sr=8-3&keywords=led+strip

You'll still have to figure out how to power them without being plugged in, though.

• First off, any build without RGB can be made to look really really nice just by adding an RGB strip kit like this one. Lights up the internals beautifully and customizable.
  
  
• I did two builds, one using the same components but without RGB, another with better components for the same price as mu original build. Nether of these factored in the RGB kit I recommended above.
  
  

• Happy building! Also, thanks for the gold! :D
  

  
  

  Same build, no RGB
  

  PCPartPicker Part List
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | £120.78 @ Aria PC
  Motherboard | ASRock - B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | £76.40 @ CCL Computers
  Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | £63.95 @ CCL Computers
  Video Card | MSI - GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB VENTUS OC Video Card | £313.47 @ Ebuyer
  Case | NZXT - H500 ATX Mid Tower Case | £69.95 @ Amazon UK
  Power Supply | Corsair - TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | £54.71 @ Amazon UK
  Case Fan | ARCTIC - Arctic F12 74 CFM 120 mm Fan | £4.49 @ AWD-IT
  Case Fan | ARCTIC - Arctic F12 74 CFM 120 mm Fan | £4.49 @ AWD-IT
  Monitor | MSI - Optix MAG241C 23.6" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor | £202.00 @ Amazon UK
  Keyboard | Corsair - K55 + HARPOON RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard With Optical Mouse | £66.98 @ Scan.co.uk
  Custom | SteelSeries QcK Edge - Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad – abgenähter Rand zur Verhinderung der Abnutzung – optimiert für Gamingsensoren – Größe M | £11.99 @ Amazon UK
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total | £989.21
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-03 20:41 BST+0100 |
  
  Different build, same budget, no RGB
  
  PCPartPicker Part List
  
  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 2700 3.2 GHz 8-Core Processor | £181.99 @ Aria PC
  Motherboard | ASRock - B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | £76.40 @ CCL Computers
  Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | £72.84 @ CCL Computers
  Video Card | Zotac - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB Video Card | £430.00 @ AWD-IT
  Case | NZXT - H500 ATX Mid Tower Case | £69.95 @ Amazon UK
  Power Supply | Corsair - TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | £54.71 @ Amazon UK
  Case Fan | ARCTIC - Arctic F12 74 CFM 120 mm Fan | £4.49 @ AWD-IT
  Case Fan | ARCTIC - Arctic F12 74 CFM 120 mm Fan | £4.49 @ AWD-IT
  Monitor | MSI - Optix MAG241C 23.6" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor | £202.00 @ Amazon UK
  Keyboard | Kingston - HyperX Alloy FPS Wired Standard Keyboard | £68.91 @ Amazon UK
  Mouse | SteelSeries - Rival 110 Wired Optical Mouse | £24.98 @ PC World Business
  Custom | SteelSeries QcK Edge - Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad – abgenähter Rand zur Verhinderung der Abnutzung – optimiert für Gamingsensoren – Größe M | £11.99 @ Amazon UK
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total | £1202.75
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-03 20:47 BST+0100 |

1. RGB LED strips. Here is about 5m worth of waterproof strips with a remote controller for $16. Not sure how best to get power there, but you can find instructions on youtube. Foot wells, cup holders, and doors are generally the best spots for these.
   
2. Paint. One of my friends handpainted the interior of his WRX to have white accents instead of just black. Looked very clean (to high school me) and can add that bit of personalization you're looking for. Maybe look for subtle accents to your current interior (paint black on a black interior for lines that are only visible from certain angles). I don't know back to the future very well, but you could use that for inspiration here.
   
3. Gauges, dials, and displays. Back to the Future has a car with a lot of information right in the center console. Having a Nexus 7 or other tablet in the center of the dash or boost gauges on the A-pillar could add to this look while still being functional.

This is assuming your motherboard is good with AM4 sockets.

"Coolness" is hard to give suggestions on just because what looks good to you or I may look terrible to your son. The list I linked below has the case, PSU, and water cooler that I think are decent. That'll come to 250. Like I said, the case may be subjective; I picked one that has some Corsair RGB fans built in that looks kinda nice and has some decent reviews, although you may choose to look elsewhere. There are a TON of <$100 RGB cases. I've included a H60 water cooler for your 2600 which should be adequate for a moderate OC on a budget. It runs decently quiet and should easily fit any case. Corsair water coolers are of great quality, generally, although you can also look at Noctua or Coolermaster, etc.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dyLmGc

Some tips: if you want RGB, Corsair is the way to go. They will charge a hefty premium for their fans, strips and controllers, but they are of great quality and all are guaranteed to work together worry free. Now, if you want to control the RGB on that case I linked, for example, you'll need an RGB controller to do so. Thankfully, Corsair makes one that works with its proprietary iCUE software and makes things very easy - the software is available on Windows and allows you to customize the colour and effects and works with all Corsair peripherals. I'll link the piece I'm referring to below as you won't find it on PCPP:

iCUE Fan Controller

That'll run you about $70. You can plug in the fans from that case and additional Corsair RGB fans or LED Strips to your desire. You can probably go off-brand for cheaper, but you won't find an easier solution than Corsair + iCUE.

I bought these after a suggestion from another person on this forum. I didn't think they would work, but WOW, it made a huge difference. Brightened my area unbelievably good. First link is the LED lights. Second link is the adapter to be able to plug it in.

I just wrapped mine around the inside of my window.

LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Strip Lights, 300 Units SMD 3528 LEDs, 12V DC Non-waterproof, Light Strips, LED ribbon, DIY Christmas Holiday Home Kitchen Car Bar Indoor Party Decoration (Daylight White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_r-dzybVRAW2Y5

LE Power Adapter, Transformers, Power Supply For LED Strip, Output 12V DC, 3A Max, 36 Watt Max, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ObezybTYECE37

Lol. I'm in this now. I am going to make a program that supports typical R / G / B / 12v 4 pin headers and the (DeepCool has it on their coolers, but its now pretty standard) 3 pin + power addressable RGB strips.

​

Like get a remind me for this. I am gonna make it happen.

Gonna use an Electron/NodeJS GUI for it and everything.

​

I'll begin with this project and go from there.

​

I will go as far as mapping each sound input and output device to any RGB strips connected to a PC.

​

Oh lord I'll even be using some of this code from the best rainmeter plugin there is.

​

Best part:

Things like these and thesewill be compatible.

I LOVE these dvd storage cubes

these are probably the best thing ever for storage. they come in other colors i just couldn't finfd on amazon.

and use these with them. again come in multiple colors. Both the shelf and bins are cheaper at like walmart and kmart, the bins are like $2 a piece and i got the shelf for $35.

and then these water speakers

and this awesome light projector

i like these salt lamps which help clean the air and give a nice relaxing lighting

and this because everyone should have a lucky elephant in their room

thsee pillows

i have this wall art and love it, but it's not purple or black.

but this is purple

maybe this

and then i think you should go to kirklands and buy lots because kirklands is the best store ever.

and wall sconces

I remember I had an orange flourescent bulb and a black light bulb in my ceiling fan for awhile, that put off a trippy glow. I ended up taking the bulbs out because I needed more light in my room for studying.

http://www.elightbulbs.com/lighting-blog/Light-Bulbs-as-Halloween-Lights

It would also be nice to have a nice warm glow from a lamp thats shaded to put off an orange/yellow glow.

himalayan lamp might be cool too
http://www.amazon.com/WBM-Himalayan-1002-Natural-Purifying/dp/B001892AX2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1377026278&sr=8-7&keywords=lamp

A desk lamp that can be tilted towards the desk for studying or up towards the ceiling and a wall would work well too.

^^ All just ideas and not all of them are going to be best for your room. With rooms they take time to develop, they can always be improved and you are probably not going to get it perfect the day you move in . Explore and have fun!

I went to amazon and ordered these lights and this adaptor. I haven't gotten them in yet, but I'll let you know what I think of them when they do. They seem pretty straight forward but you never know with these kind of things haha.

As for preference of white vs warm (yellow), I used christmas lights and a white fluorescent lamp as different backlighting to see which I liked more. I picked the white because I felt it had a more mysterious/ night time feel (just my opinion haha), but all the Hari and Deepti ones use yellow light so it's all up to personal preference. Post pictures of yours when you finish! I'd love to see how it turns out! :)

If she's "sort of" a hipster, might I suggest a salt crystal lamp? Perfect for people who are into things like the spiritual feel and look really good in a room. I have one and I love it! Definitely catches the attention of people who come over!

Edit: They can be bought from here: http://www.amazon.com/WBM-Himalayan-1002-Natural-Purifying/dp/B001892AX2
And also if there is a Earthbound near you, you might be able to find it at the store, seeing as it's where I purchased mine! There are also many other things she might like at Earthbound if there is one near you.

Hope I can help!

Here's the basic mods I went with for our Vandura. We wanted to keep it simple and get it done in a couple months. Since I work full-time, time was the major constraining factor. We only use ours for a weekend fun vehicle so your needs may be different. We like ours, but it's definitely not Instagram worthy. I'm assuming yours has the conversion setup inside (wood paneling etc.) so it should be similar

- Replace the factory valence and center lighting with LEDs. The stock lights are garbage and one of the valence lights shorted out with the previous owner and was a safety issue. We used multi-colored dimmable lights for the center ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ML5ZJQR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and simple LEDs for the valence ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). After install the valence lights are SUPER bright; in retrospect, I'd use just one strip for all three valence lights

- Remove the rear captains chairs and install vinyl flooring in the middle. We have an electrically driven sofa/bed in the back that we wanted to keep in case we need extra legal seating, so we only installed flooring in the middle portion of the van between the cab and rear sofa seating. We found some vinyl "planks" at Walmart for dirt cheap (~$20 for the whole area) but the adhesive they came with didn't work great, especially with drastic temp changes. I'd suggest going with single sheet vinyl or laminate or, at the very least, using liquid nails as a substitute adhesive.

- Built a counter space/storage cabinet. I just used basic sideboard plans found on the internet. This stores our aux battery, fuse block, inverter and gives some additional storage space

- Install a battery isolator, aux battery, fuse block, inverter etc. We went with the Battery Doctor isolator ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058SGDFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) because of the added ability to use the aux battery to supplement the starter battery in emergencies

- Install forced air ventilation. I didn't want to cut through the roof for a MaxxAir fan because we liked the lighting. Since the conversion van has 3 sets of sliding windows, we created a make-shift side vent fans out of 12V computer fans ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072NCYQRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Three fans fit in each sliding window. Each fan is rated at 52CFM so (in theory) we get ~200-300CFM with two windows (eventually I'll get accurate measures with an anemometer just for curiosity's sake). Since we don't cook in the van and the van has multiple windows that open, this just helps the forced airflow to prevent condensation while sleeping.

- Upgraded the CRT TV to a flat screen ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3VH4VK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Side note: the TV remote IR frequency changes the color of the multi-color LEDs. Maybe you can get around this with a different LED setup. We just turn the TV on before the lights to get around it

- Wired the TV, vent fans, and center lights to the aux battery. We originally had the valence lights hooked to it too, but since they're so damn bright we never used them and I reconnected them to the starter battery.

- Eventually, I'll build a storage compartment in the back that also opens to a table out the back hatch.

- So far, we're happy with just a cooler between the cab chairs. If we eventually go to a 12V fridge, we'll probably need another battery which doesn't make economic sense for what we use the van for

Just wanted to share my current display case setup.

I used this Ikea cabinet ($169) with this LED light strip ($15).

I originally bought a different LED strip, but it wasn't nearly bright enough. This one gets super bright and comes with a dimmer, so you can play with the lighting level.

Bonus feature is the rack at the bottom that perfectly holds the game box!

Edit: forgot to mention that you'll need to drill a hole in the steel plate at the bottom to feed your power cord through for the LED strip. I used a drill bit designed to cut through metal, and then added a little poster tack to the sharp edges so I don't accidentally fray the power cord.

tl:dr There are a few options but if you want a device that will be reliable and effective you'll need a standalone GPS system typically used by hunters ($$$).

• Bluetooth based products like the Pawscout Smart Bluetooth Tag only alerts you if the dog is outside of your phone's bluetooth range (200ft or less, assuming there's no trees or other obstructions between you and your dog) which isn't very effective if the dog's bolted (discussed here).
  
  
• The major consumer-level GPS-based product on the market is the Whistle Tracker at $80 + $10/mo. This product can give inaccurate information that is of limited value (your dog can cover quite some distance in the 3 minutes between location updates). It will also only work if you have cell coverage. Nevertheless, it may currently be the best option available for what you are seeking given the cost and/or limited functionality of the other options.
  
  
• Standalone GPS systems used by hunters have been proven in the field and I consider it to be the gold standard when it comes to tracking or locating a lost dog. These are very expensive ($400+) but don't suffer from the limitations of the Whistle tracker. See this Gundogsupply article for more information.
  
  
• Beeper collar systems used by hunters cost around $80 and are another option but I personally think that level of sound may damage my dog's ears. They are discussed in the Gundogsupply article also linked above.
  
  
• Radio-telemetry systems used by hunters cost around $160 but have certain limitations. I don't have experience with these so I'll again refer you to the Gundogsupply article also linked above.
  
  
• Dog Bells are something you may consider as well. I personally would never do this (it would get too annoying on a day-to-day basis for both myself and dog) but I included it for completeness' sake.
  
  
  
• Consider using a locator light like this indestructible beacon made by Adventure Lights (ezydog, sportdog, egear, and others rebrand them but they generally cost about $15) These same lights are standard military issue and there are videos on youtube of people running them over with cars. If you're trying to find a lost dog, I highly recommend getting an omnidirectional light (= can be seen in a 360 degree radius) rather than those that shine a directional cone-shaped beam in front* of the light (e.g. Ruffwear Beacon and most bike lights). or bent around your dog. You may also consider the Nite-Ize SpotLit which is fine for casual use but I wouldn't rely on it to actually find a seriously lost dog given its directional nature (battery compartment/micro chip obscures one side of the light) and somewhat limited brightness compared.
  

I would advise against using CableMod products. There just cheaply made and over charge you for what you get.

If you have soldering skills, there a few quality strips on Amazon. Deep Dream usually makes good products. Make sure there Blacklight enabled.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C2NQWIQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also with UV be very careful on the wavelength you buy. You want something in the 380 to 405nm. Anything below 380 can be dangerous for your eyes and sometimes skin(These are more blue then purple).

If your outside the US and can't get ahold of Darkside, Nanoxia also creates good UV lighting as well. I'm not a fan on how they attach there LED connector. Everything else is solid.

Of course CCFL UV (High Quality versions). Still create the best UV effect. You also have to deal with the inverter. MonSoon makes the best CCFL in my experience.

This is the one I used. It's perfect for 1 case, but you'll need more parts if you decide to do the strip on top like mine. Make sure to research how to work with LED strips if you aren't familiar. It's extremely easy, but there are things worth noting (where to cut, how to add on extensions, splitters, etc).

Deep Dream UV Black Light Led Strip 16.4Ft/5M 3528 300LEDs Flexible Waterproof IP65 BlackLight Night Fishing Sterilization implicitly Party with 12V 2A Power Supply

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C2NQWIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m2Zhzb1EGNRJC

Not so much 'proud of', but there are some that fascinate me more than others.

My bedroom a couple years ago. I really love kaleidoscope projectors and oil projectors. I couldn't take the oil projector (mathmos brand) with me on the last move (AU>US different voltage) so I'm in the market for a new one. Currently thinking about something from optifanatics.

Edit: Just watched the video again for the first time in a while and forgot one of my other favorites, this "Laser Star", though I've seen it under different brands. It has two separate lights, one for a blue space nebula, and another for green laser stars that slowly orbit. You can have one or the other or both on. Also, there is a bit of fog in the room so the laser beams would be more visible, I use the Antari F-1 Fazer for this.

Edit 2: there's a bunch of groovy lights for camping and such too. Check out ENO(eagles nest outfitters) for a couple options. Their lava lamp is impressive.

I did something like that for my Lego shelf. Used some LED strips and a motion sensor module to keep it all automatic. I had no idea what I was doing and bought a bunch of stuff I didn't need, but...

• LED Strip - $7
  
• Cable to run the power across the shelf - $8 (should've just used some spare cabling I had...)
  
• Motion detector - $10
  
• Power plug - $8
  
  And if you're comfortable soldering, that's pretty much all you need to get something up and running. But I wanted to make it all modular so I could take it apart and set it back up without too much hassle. So I ended up buying adapters and coaxial power cable things:
  
  
• Ribbon to coaxial adapter - $5
  
• Coaxial to regular 'ol cable adapater - $7
  
• Power splitter - $6.50
  
  I'm pretty sure I did it as inefficiently and cost ineffective as possible because I have severe amazon impulse control issues and just buy shit to get started on fun projects. I'm sure with a little more research/guidance you could do it a little cheaper. But I'm happy with my setup for now.
  
  and here's a picture of the shelf. The shelf is terrible, and it's all a wreck because I'm in the middle of moving, but it shows the brightness pretty well. Oh and I have about a 1/4 roll of LEDs left, so I'd guess 2 or 3 rolls would take care of your shelf.

Hey RepTime, with my watch cases almost full, I thought it would be a good time to post full collection pics of my watches. The imgur link has full collection pics and up close shots of each watch with full title from the TD. I tried my best with the pics, many of the watches look better in person than what my lack of photo taking skills can display.

Why did I get into replicas?
About 2 years ago, I was in the market for a gen Rolex or Breitling, but then I stumbled upon this subreddit and here we are. I've been collecting for a little more than a year now. Currently at 54 watches with another Tudor on the way.

WTC:
I've only purchased from Intime and Trustytime. Overall, they are about the same, but Trusty time email response times are faster.
I usually bundle about 4-5 watches per order to save on shipping costs, been only buying from trustytime lately due to their lower shipping costs and promo code coupon. I haven't seen any difference in watch prices between the TDs.
Each order usually takes about a 3-4 weeks from order date to delivery. Haven't had any major issues with either TD, customs or watches arriving DOA.

Experience so far:
I don't have any one favorite watch, I like having variety and sometimes change watches throughout the day.
I have not serviced any watch yet, but each watch gets little and infrequent use.

Also, be great if you guys can recommend what my collection is missing!


Links to watch cases, LED light kits, cleaning cloth, and watch resizing tools:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MV3E5PY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013GX030E/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075CKX85S/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CYPVGWY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076M6NBWB/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LIJED4U/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sure - I'll even give you the links and the code!

These NodeMCUs:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L8W9SP3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With this LED Strip:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZHB9M6A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(It has connectors on either end so I cut it midway and used it to make two strips.) Powered it directly from the NodeMCU.

Here's the code I used:

esphome:
name: ledstrip_controller
platform: ESP8266
board: nodemcuv2

wifi:
ssid: !secret ssid
password: !secret wifi_pass
manual_ip:
static_ip: 192.168.1.197
gateway: 192.168.1.1
subnet: 255.255.255.0

logger:
api:
ota:

light:

• platform: neopixelbus
  variant: WS2812X
  method: ESP8266_DMA
  pin: GPIO3
  num_leds: 62
  name: "Neopixel Light"
  effects:
  
  • random:
    
  • strobe:
    
  • flicker:
    
  • addressable_rainbow:
    
  • addressable_rainbow:
    name: Rainbow Effect With Custom Values
    speed: 25
    width: 30
    
  • addressable_color_wipe:
    
  • addressable_color_wipe:
    name: Color Wipe Effect With Custom Values
    colors:
    
    • red: 100%
      green: 100%
      blue: 100%
      num_leds: 5
      
    • red: 0%
      green: 0%
      blue: 0%
      num_leds: 2
      add_led_interval: 100ms
      reverse: False
      
  • addressable_color_wipe:
    name: Color Wipe Effect Code Red
    colors:
    
    • red: 100%
      green: 0%
      blue: 0%
      num_leds: 10
      
    • red: 0%
      green: 0%
      blue: 0%
      num_leds: 5
      add_led_interval: 10ms
      reverse: True
      
  • addressable_scan:
    
  • addressable_scan:
    name: Scan Effect One
    move_interval: 10ms
    
  • addressable_scan:
    name: Scan Effect Two
    move_interval: 5ms
    
  • addressable_twinkle:
    
  • addressable_twinkle:
    name: Twinkle Effect With Custom Values
    twinkle_probability: 15%
    progress_interval: 4ms
    
  • addressable_random_twinkle:
    
  • addressable_random_twinkle:
    name: Random Twinkle Effect With Custom Values
    twinkle_probability: 15%
    progress_interval: 32ms
    
  • addressable_fireworks:
    
  • addressable_fireworks:
    name: Fireworks Effect With Custom Values
    update_interval: 32ms
    spark_probability: 15%
    use_random_color: true
    fade_out_rate: 180
    
  • addressable_flicker:
    
  • addressable_flicker:
    name: Flicker Effect With Custom Values
    update_interval: 16ms
    intensity: 20%
    
    Connected it to my HA server with a USB cable, clicked the flash button and waited a minute or two. Went to Integrations page, selected esphome and entered the IP address in the code above and voila, I had a controllable lightstrip in HA with special effects included.
    
    I initially just added the effects lines, but then I added the ones with custom values and reflashed it.

The LED kit that is inside the PC case is this combo from Amazon. It is powered off of a 12V molex pin from the PSU. There are plenty of cheaper versions out there. If you know a little bit about circuits and soldering it's pretty easy to put together your own customized LED kit.


The laser cutting is totally fascinating to me! I'm lucky enough to have access to a laser at work. You design your image file on the computer and send it to the laser just like you would your printer. After focusing the beam and adjusting your speed/power settings for the material, the laser goes back and forth making passes and filling in the design. Here's a video of someone else engraving their image. In addition to the plexiglass it also can make awesome designs in wood, glass, metal and almost anything else you can think of.

Here is my CR-10S.

I added the Petsfang fan fang. Added this fan to the fang.

I added these Z-Axis braces. Added these LEDs to the Z-Braces.

I'm printing on a mirror tile with a sheet of PEI bonded to it.

Last week I added the TH3D EZABL and have been encouraged by the results. It creates a Z-offset map of the build plate before every print. I can see the Z-steppers move during X-Y moves so I can tell it's working. Manual bed-leveling was working OK for smaller prints, but I could never get all 4 corners to agree with the center height. I suspect my aluminum bed plate is shaped like a Pringles chip.
I really like the Marlin Firmware over the OEM version. I don't mind not having auto-resume since I plugged my printer into a UPS system.

Right now my printer is about 20 hours into a 60-hour print of a T-Rex skull. I've been really happy with this printer! It was my first and I've been having a ball with it.

Place looks great. A couple recommendations:

1: The record player on the ground looks a little off. Using an Ikea cube shelf would look great and give you room for the records. It's only like $35 http://m.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/art/60275812/
2: Add some color. Unless you are into the dark colors like me then keep it as is. One cool thing to add that I just found out are an LED strip Amazon has that just powers on the USB port of the tv. It's simple and looks great:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FJUMP6M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_D7vUzbEZ5V5E4

Also, maybe move the plant to the right a little bit to hide the cables?

This basic remote that comes with LED strips usually:

https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Changing-Flexible-Remote-Control/dp/B00BP4DUMU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3

The battery is fine and it works but I realy want to be able to point it in different angles and still be able to use it because no I need to be 1m or closer and aim dirrectly to it and the reciever is in pretty uncomfortable spot so I have to walk there everytime and put my hand behind shelf to change colors. Maybe I can modify the remote and/or reciever to be able to do it from ~5m and in different angles too? I understand that I cant point the remote away and hope that it will work but cmon I can't be wrong by 0.5 degrees now if I want it to work now....

K I am bit oversaturating but I realy want to upgrade it a bit XD

Thanx

I spy a republican gunship hiding. love love love. haha

On a more serious note, frames for your posters would be an easy and cheap way to clean things up a bit. Also, rbg lighting can be as simple and cheap as this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BP4DUMU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_img?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2Y1AKJUEGPG2U&coliid=I9D60H4E01TR6

I bought these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006U5SE7U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I thought my Pedal Power would power them, but they draw too much so I use the courtesy outlet. They are awesome though and I'd recommend them for any kind of fun LED lighting. I'd like to get another set for behind my monitors!

Oh it is very easy to do in the Meshify C ... ask me how i know, lol ... there is a great lip on the left and up top. Perfect for hiding Phanteks PH-LEDKT_Combo: RGB LED Strip Combo Set .. fantastic little strips - the magnets embedded in the silicone work great

For whatever it's worth, I agree with your roommate. If you're looking to use Corsair RGB fans, then investing in a Commander Pro only makes sense. The Commander provides power for all of your fans, superior fan control, and control over all of your RGB in a coordinated manner.

​

Amazon has it on sale now: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Fan-Controller-Commander-CL-9011110-WW/dp/B0725HP1J2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=corsair+commander+pro&qid=1563463423&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

As well as the 3x fans: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-LL120-120mm-Light-Lighting/dp/B075VGN4M1/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=corsair+commander+pro&qid=1563463506&s=gateway&sr=8-2

​

Good luck!

​

Chris

Can't speak for OP but I have a lot of experience with LEDs.

There are two parts to an LED setup.

1. Type of LEDs
   
   
2. Controller to set the LED colors / animations
   
   What are you looking to do? Animations along an LED strip or single color lighting like this (all LEDs in the strip independently colorable or the whole strand all being same color at a time)? This will determine what type of strip to use.
   
   How would you want to control them? Via your mortherboard (if it has the option), an IR remote (like TV) or a phone?
   
   
   If your looking for something super simple and easy then something like this would be the way to go:
   https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Changing-Flexible-Remote-Control/dp/B00BP4DUMU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Ok, he's my still ghetto but much much less depressing method.

Sleep on the boxes, just cover them up with more fabric. $10

Get the hanging shit off the ceiling, it looks creepy. $0

Go to ikea, don't get a fancy desk. Screw those, they fall apart, and are more difficult to move if they stay together. They have a modular desk system. This is the main surface, and these cheap bastards are the legs.

Very easy to take apart.

Desk: $25 + tax. Let's just say $30.

Now get two or three of these LED strips. At $17 each, these things are pretty cheap. Don't use the adhesive on the back, it's meant to be permanent. Just use another method to attach them to your ceiling in a sort of back and forth zig-zag or S pattern.

If you got three of these, you have ample lighting in your room, two backup-up power supplies if one fails, and three remotes. Use two of those temporary "command-strips" to put two remotes on the wall, one next to your entrance, the other next to your bed, then leave the third as a regular remote. You can now control the lighting, and the entire color of your room from anywhere. I actually hung them slightly low, and pointed them at the ceiling, creating a sort of ambient lighting, and less glare from the individual diodes.

LED ceiling $51 + command strips, and whatever means you use to hang them about $60.

Posters are cheap. 3 posters from target = $22

A cool cube clothing organizer. This is also very modular, and has those doors to keep it from looking too trashy. $67

Put your guitar on this guitar stand. $15

If you have big headphones (I don't see any. If you use earbuds/iems then ignore this) then put this banana holder on your desk. They are perfect for holding headphones, and look cool while doing it. $12

At this point, I've gone slightly over budget it. My guess is around $216 total for all of the above.

Big comfy chairs are huge, and expensive. I suggest checking the free section of craigslist for something like recliners. Just make sure they're bug-free, throw those in there, and throw them away or give them away when you move.

I got lucky, and eventually got a pretty light comfy chair that I do actually move with me now, using this method.

I used a Ustellar LED Strip! It comes with its own power supply and dimmable switch, which was super great. It's got an adhesive back to it so all I did was cut it to length and stick it on and that's literally it.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Ustellar-Dimmable-Daylight-Lighting-Non-waterproof/dp/B075RYSHQQ

Best decision I made in regards to workstations. I get even lighting all around my workstation so I'm never having to readjust for when my giant head is in the way of my lightsource and it even takes pretty good WiP shots!

Okay, now we're talking but is there any way to order bulk via online?

EDIT:

Looks like people already jumped on that idea, and I'm glad they're made in Pakistan
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001892AX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a2E.BbDH3BY9G

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07749WM54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W5E.BbBGWE7V8

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1HVSWX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_U6E.BbXZ6GV64

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJTGWYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r-E.Bb7ZZQD0Y


Thank you for showing me this, it really made my day to know Pakistan makes something that I think is absolutely beautiful.

highqualitysuggestions.jpg

Your verdict: 8/10

Kudos to you for being ahead of most of your college peers in the exciting field of interior decorating! The lion poster really ties the room together. Keep the place this clean and score big points with the females.

Buy some plants and put them on that windowsill and your desk. Please don't over water them.

When you buy art make sure it's majority black or white. Colored accents are fine but something too loud can mess with the black and white feng shui you got goin' on.

Buy these LED lights. Better yet buy two of 'em so you know all the wall is covered. Slap in the corner between the wall and the ceiling and get some additional light in there - you're going to want something besides the overhead light and your lamp.

Go crazy and experiment with colors. Here's what the place looks like with an orange tone. Here is the place with a cool blue tone. You can also keep it a bright white light if you're a more minimalist person.

Get a place to store all the junk you have on top of your desk. Get some books in there too.

Yeah, super simple, I got these lights and used the tape included to apply it around the edge. But the tape on these isn’t that great, so i used super glue as well. there are plenty like it on Amazon that might be better quality

$130 - Sennheiser HD 599 SE Special Edition, Black

$130 - Sennheiser HD 4.50 Special Edition, Bluetooth Wireless Headphone with Active Noise Cancellation, Black

​

$541 - HKC 34'' (3440x1440p) 21:9 Ultrawide 100hz Curved Freesync VA Panel 8ms GTG Rebranded Viotek GN34C, I think it's a Samsung CF791 Panel

$870 - Samsung LC34J791WTNXZA 34" 3440x1440 100Hz QLED 21:9 VA Freesync Thunderbolt 3

$115 - ViewSonic VX2257-MHD 22 Inch 75Hz 2ms 1080p TN

$650 - Samsung 32" QLED 1440p 144Hz HDR 600 WQHD Curved Gaming Monitor Freesync 2 VA

$315 - LG 27GL650F-B 27" 144hz IPS HDR 10 Freesync

$165 - AOPEN 24HC1QR Pbidpx 23.6" 1080p 144hz 1800R Curved FreeSync 4ms VA

$320 - AOPEN 32HC1QUR Pbidpx 31.5" (2560x1440) 144Hz 1800R Curved VA 4ms Freesync Ships within 1-3 months

$260 - ViewSonic VX3276-2K-MHD 32 Inch 1440p IPS Frameless

​

$270 - AMD Ryzen 7 2700X

$765 - AMD Ryzen Threadripper 2950X

​

$200 - Toshiba X300 8TB Hard Drive 7200 RPM 128MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5 Inch

$120 - Toshiba NAS N300 4TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 128MB

$315 - Toshiba NAS N300 10TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 256MB

$80 - Seagate FireCuda 2TB SSHD 2.5 Inch SATA

$57/96/186 - XPG GAMMIX 256/512GB/1TB S11 Pro 3D NAND PCIe NVMe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 SSD

$106 - Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD

$107 - Crucial BX500 960GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5-Inch Internal SSD

$242 - Crucial MX500 2TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch SSD

$104 - Toshiba Canvio Advance 4TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0, White

$120 - WD Elements 6TB USB 3.0 External HDD Color Black WDBWLG0060HBK-NESN

$95 - Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5" SATA III SSD

​

$81 - Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (2x8GB) DDR4 3000 MT/s (PC4-24000) CL15 SR Gray

$137 - Ballistix Elite 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 MT/s (PC4-28800) CL16 SR Ships within 1-2 months

$73 - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 3000 CL16 Black Non-prime, ships within 1-3 months

​

Other Components

$110 - DEEPCOOL Castle 240 RGB Liquid CPU Cooler Non-prime

$170 - Corsair H115i 280mm RGB Platinum AIO Liquid CPU Cooler

$35 - Deepcool RF120 3-Pack 120mm RGB PWM Fans with Fan Hub and Extension Non-prime

$805 - ZOTAC Gaming GeForce RTX 2080 Twin Fan 8GB

$198 - Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO ATX Motherboard

$120 - Corsair RM750x 80 Plus Gold Fully Modular ATX PSU CP-9020179-NA

$170 - Corsair HX850i High Performance 80+ Platinum Fully Modular ATX PSU

$60 - Corsair Fan Controller Commander Pro CL-9011110-WW

​

$33 - Logitech G602 Wireless Gaming Mouse

$40 - Logitech G403 Prodigy Wired Gaming Mouse

$50 - Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB Tunable Gaming Mouse

$50 - Razer DeathAdder Elite: True 16,000 5G Optical Sensor

$64 - SteelSeries Rival 600 Gaming Mouse, 12,000 CPI TrueMove3+ Dual Optical Sensor

$55 - Logitech MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse, Graphite Ships within 1-2 months

$22 - NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch

$25 - HyperX Double Shot Black & White Pudding PBT Keycaps - 104 Mechanical Keycap Set for Cherry MX

$30 - Corsair mm350 Anti-Fray Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad Extended XL

$10.50 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Cloth

$23 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Hard

$135 - Razer Huntsman: Opto-Mechanical Switch

$55 - Logitech C920 Webcam HD Pro (960-000764)

​

$10.91 - AmazonBasics AAA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 850mAh

$12.48 - AmazonBasics AAA Rechargeable Batteries (12-Pack) 800mAh

$18.89 - AmazonBasics AA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 2400mAh

$1.49 - Oreos and other snacks :)

Does your vanity have a built in mirror? If not, Amazon Prime has lots of mirrors with LED lights already on them. They range from like $20+ and all have pretty good reviews!
I've been considering this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B9QUDZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mlHOybKHX2WDJ
($29.99)

It is a little more than I wanted to spend but I'm starting my vanity from scratch so I'm gonna need to buy a mirror and lights anyway, this seemed like the best deal in that sense.

But like someone else said, if you already have a mirror these strips are pretty cheap! Plus they're a lot more space-efficient than a lamp!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7qHOybK6DP04J
($7.99)

Needs to be delivered by hand by Friday.

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Based on information I've gotten here and from friends, the guy screwed up the order and that's probably why he bailed on the job. I guess 5v is weird? And they are purple instead of white because he didn't order RGB-W. I've ordered these 12v white LEDs.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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By my calculation I'll be using 90 feet per light box. Just need to figure out how to battery power those. There's a chance there will be outlets on site but the client wants battery just in case. Feel like I've got two options here, got for wall plugin and include plug in batteries. Which my friend said was a lot of necessary conversions... or find a no-nonsense easily rechargeable battery. I won't be operating these, sales people will so I need to make it simple, plug and play, either way.

​

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Looks great, congrats!

Check out the Aquacomputer Quadro for something that can operate autonomously—you configure it via software in Windows (not necessarily the machine it'll eventually run in), but it can independently run up to 4 discrete channels of fans off of the built-in temperature inputs (in whatever combination you want). You'll also need a spare G1/4 port for a 10K temperature sensor, or you can just use the packaged open-air probe taped to a radiator end-cap or wedged in its fins for a crude measurement.

The Corsair Commander is a similar device, but I can't speak to whether it can run without Windows or their software.

Other folx may be able to recommend specific custom/Arduino devices that accomplish the same thing, but I found the Quadro to be a pretty easy + cost-effective solution. Tiny enough to tuck away, if you don't like the look of it. ✌️

Mmmm, the ones I'm finding aren't quite the same. Nothing is exactly like this setup but, I think you could achieve similar results with something like these:

List of ideas with pictures, warning it's clickbait-y

Amazon very simple example, not quite the same, hence me saying you won't get a matching project without DIY

More examples here

You'll notice that a lot of these are DIY/custom which is a huge point--most really well-done LED lighting art pieces are done by hand, not bought from the store. It's really easy to do actually, as LED light strips are cheap right now, 15 ft multicolor for <$1/ft.

The takeaway here is creativity is king.

Thank you! I'm not great at woodworking but I learned a lot from the first one and will be making more for my other 3 cases.


For the lights, I watched a quick tutorial How to set LED Strip Lights on Your Detolf Shelf or Display Case.


The lights were pretty inexpensive and don't make a huge mess. Plus they were easy to install. I ordered the strip lights from Amazon Ustellar Dimmable LED Light Strip Kit and they took about 10 minutes to set up each one.


Tahnks again and I hope this helps.

I’m pretty sure the Corsair Commander Pro uses the USB 2.0 port. Any fan works with the fan headers, but the rgb control only works with iCue compatible fans.

The nzxt h500i uses a USB 2.0 controller as well.

There are also fan hubs like this that go right into the fan header on the motherboard, they act as just a splitter rather than a controller.
These ones are cheeper.

The batteries don't last nearly long enough and honestly LED strip lighting is cheaper. $15 and comes with power supply, dimmer and mounting brackets. You will have to get a bit creative in cutting and routing wires through or behind your cabinets, but it's worth the extra effort since it's better lighting and you'll never have to change batteries. There are also a range of angled brackets and diffusers that are pretty cheap as well.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $644.99 @ Mike's Computer Shop
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H150i PRO 47.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $199.99 @ Canada Computers
Thermal Compound | Thermal Grizzly - Kryonaut 1g 1 g Thermal Paste | $15.89 @ Amazon Canada
Motherboard | MSI - MEG Z390 GODLIKE EATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $659.99 @ Memory Express
Memory | Corsair - Dominator Platinum 64 GB (4 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $615.00 @ Newegg Canada
Storage | Samsung - 970 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $435.50 @ shopRBC
Storage | Samsung - 970 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $435.50 @ shopRBC
Storage | Samsung - 970 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $435.50 @ shopRBC
Storage | Samsung - 860 QVO 4 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $697.64 @ Amazon Canada
Video Card | MSI - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $1699.99 @ Memory Express
Video Card | MSI - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $1699.99 @ Memory Express
Case | Lian-Li - PC-O11 Dynamic ATX Full Tower Case | $204.99 @ Newegg Canada
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 1600 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $460.99 @ PC-Canada
Case Fan | Corsair - ML120 PRO RGB (3 pack w/Lighting Node PRO) 47.3 CFM 120 mm Fans | $129.99 @ Amazon Canada
Case Fan | Corsair - ML120 PRO RGB (3 pack w/Lighting Node PRO) 47.3 CFM 120 mm Fans | $129.99 @ Amazon Canada
Case Fan | Corsair - ML120 PRO RGB (3 pack w/Lighting Node PRO) 47.3 CFM 120 mm Fans | $129.99 @ Amazon Canada
Monitor | Asus - ROG SWIFT PG27UQ 27.0" 3840x2160 144 Hz Monitor | $2398.99 @ Powertop
Monitor | LG - 34GK950G-B 34.0" 3440x1440 120 Hz Monitor | $1499.99 @ Newegg Canada
Keyboard | Razer - Huntsman Elite Wired Gaming Keyboard | $259.99 @ PC-Canada
Mouse | Logitech - G502 LIGHTSPEED Wireless Optical Mouse | $199.99 @ Amazon Canada
Headphones | Sennheiser - HD 820 Headphones | $3199.95 @ Amazon Canada
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $16164.84
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $16154.84
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-18 08:51 EDT-0400 |

And this corsair commander pro
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Fan-Controller-Commander-CL-9011110-WW/dp/B0725HP1J2

Also this mousepad https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Powerplay-Wireless-Charging-Lightspeed/dp/B071WZ56G9

And a mic to if you need it https://www.amazon.com/Samson-G-Track-Pro-Studio-Condenser/dp/B075KL6ZLC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Samson+G-track+pro&qid=1553183109&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

not a problem! i'll link you the two pieces on Amazon and can show you "how they work/look" in your case as well since I have the same thing :)

(actually, if we're just looking at "brand new" and not on sale prices, you're looking at about $30 total)

standard and not aluminium, hate to say it but I ended up trying both and the alm. looks nice but makes no real major difference worth two of these (and if you really want to go to that level, you'd probably just buy an RGB fan for like $10 more!) (EDIT: Since we're talking an NZXT case I believe their pre-installed fans are 120" so this should be right - if they are 140, it's about the same price but a different listing)
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-FF120RGBP_BK01-Halos-density-mounting/dp/B074Q65CRV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521046953&sr=8-1&keywords=phanteks+rgb+120

as for the strips:
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-LEDKT_COMBO-Strip-Combo-Retail/dp/B01HUFMIZ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521046950&sr=8-1&keywords=phanteks+rgb+led+strip

If you're up for a little bit of DIY, I have strips of LED lights in my room and if you bought something similar I'm sure you could mount them to 2x4 boards that have been spray painted black or something. A trigger for them is relatively inexpensive, and the lights are extremely bright in a dorm room,

I think this is the pack we got, and then we switched in a sound responsive trigger.

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Changing-Flexible-Remote-Control/dp/B00BP4DUMU/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415870742&sr=1-7&keywords=color+changing+led+lights

if you want to pay a bit more for even better stuff, these are good lights as well
http://www.lightingever.com/rgb-led-strip-non-waterproof.html?gclid=CJn8iZSP98ECFYHyMgodvgcA-Q#info-tip

I pretty much bought the cheapest LED strip I could find on amazon with prime: https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Decoration-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1491780767&sr=8-5&keywords=led+strip

You gotta do a bit of soldering after cutting up the strips but it was honestly pretty easy despite being my 2-3rd time soldering.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006U5SE7U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They're super cheap :) And I can change the colors via the remote which is awesome! :)

hello all,

I have some standard LED light strips in a room that are all hooked up via separate kits I purchased on amazon, this is the kit. I am interested in getting the existing lights I have setup to work with a wireless hub as smart lights. I have found a few systems from Philips, and Sylvania, but they are 5 pin lights instead of the standard 4. I have also found some controllers that I can solder into place and use instead of the current controllers for my lights.

Does any one have any suggestions for a product I can use to smarten up my lighting system without having to do any soldering? If not, does anyone know of a product that includes good comprehensive guide to setup and installation of the lights? ...or just where to start with this whole thing?

Hey, fella. This looks beautiful. Well done. I imagined doing something like this myself, once, but the technical know-how is... not something I possess. This is very helpful. In my dream setup, it'd be done using the hue version, so I could control the case lights from my phone. But thanks a lot for posting this. :)

Thanks! As for the lights, the ones behind the monitors is a 4 strip RGB LED kit from IKEA. However, I would just recommend going on Amazon and getting a kit similar to the ones I post below. The only reason I got the IKEA ones is because I worked there at the time and it was a little cheaper, otherwise I would have gotten the ones on Amazon since they are a much better option.

For inside the desktop, I bought a kit that is essentially the same LEDs I was talking about before, but instead they are adapted so that it plugs into a 4-Pin molex.

Computer Tower RGB Light Kit:* https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AZ4XX0E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
***
Monitor/Desk/Room Lighting: https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Flexible-Controller/dp/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1465874461&sr=1-7&keywords=rgb+led+strip+with+controller

On a side note, these LED strips are great because they can be cut to size, and if you have extra left over you can just get another controller and remote to have multiple lighting locations. And if your'e handy enough, you can technically just make the lights for inside your case on your own. As long as you know how to solder that is.

Sory about the essay. Hope this helped!

I got mine from eBay and I like them but they could be better. Reason being the each LED is only one color RGB so it alternates red green blue so on. Here is a link to the ones I believe are similar to mine but better. And yes you can control them with a remote. You can make them flash, stay solid, rotate colors and change the speed at which they do.

I install a lot of SMD LED strips. I have had good luck with these. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HSF64JG?cache=27cdb7082ac1067e2e4766bf86b4860d&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412750393&sr=8-3#productDescription_secondary_view_pageState_1412750433171
They use .5 Amps per Meter. You will need 4 rolls so you will also need a12Volt power supply rated at 10 Amps and 120 Watts. Something like this would work. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LWQ2GS0?cache=27cdb7082ac1067e2e4766bf86b4860d&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412750809&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2
To control them you will need a dimmer or simple on-off switch. I would suggest a remote dimmer. Like this one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009C34ZV6?cache=27cdb7082ac1067e2e4766bf86b4860d&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412751212&sr=8-12#ref=mp_s_a_1_12
I personally prefer warm white for indirect lighting in a kitchen area. Cool white can be a bit harsh bouncing off the ceiling.
I hope this helps.

Combination of parts from Amazon and ebay. Not all of them are necessary, fittings and Brute trashcans and such are from Home Depot.

• 12v, 20A power supply ($17)
  Runs the lights, pump, fans, and other electronics. Kind of excessive. 5A would be enough.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6S0JS4
  
  
• Check valves, x2 ($10)
  Don't cheap out on these. Crappy plastic check valves really screwed me early on.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZOCQMA
  
  
• Shutoff valves, x2 ($12)
  Needed for priming the pump or flushing the nutrient reservoir.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018HMFG7O
  
  
• Mylar ($10)
  This was roughly 4x what I actually needed.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8PAAJW
  
  
• Leca ceramic substrate, 4 pounds ($18)
  Transplanting the sprouts into this was weird, but they took well to it.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IAM29K
  
  
• Vinyl tubing 25ft ($12)
  Everything I chose was 5/16 inner diameter.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CGVJ9QG
  
  
• Net pots, 5in, X20 ($13)
  Hydroponic pots, specifically for Leca substrate.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N9AE9BE
  
  
• Air bubbler ($13)
  I think that dripping from two feet aerates the water naturally, but this can't hurt.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L17IPEO
  
  
• Warm white LED strip ($11)
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01339F5ZO
  
  
• Cool white LED strip ($11)
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01339G2F6
  
  
• 270W UFO Light ($60)
  Wait for sales on these! The 270W light is $80 now, but I got it for $60.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RWQ4B50
  
  
• Sealing foam ($8)
  To make the door airtight.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011CXIPO6
  
  
• Nutrients ($33)
  This will be enough for a bunch of grows. A little goes a long way.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017H73708
  
  
• pH Control Kit ($18)
  Will also last a long time. Only takes a few drops to balance a gallon.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY
  
  
• Activated carbon filter, 4 inch ($40)
  This thing was bigger than I anticipated.
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E582DV2/
  
  
• Barbed T splitters x10 ($10)
  For making the irrigation loops.
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/302176243137
  
  
• 12v PC fan ($3)
  Loud as heck. Ended up using a quieter fan I had around.
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/272508816366
  
  
• 12v pump ($15)
  Quiet as heck. Rated for 2.1GPM. It's enough, but I think that a 5GPM pump would have been better.
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/272403296601

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Flexible-Controller/dp/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420497003&sr=8-2&keywords=led+strips

I bought these and use them for a green fishing light. They run off of 12V and VERY VERY BRIGHT! Get one with a lesser LED count per roll and I think they will work great for what you want. You can also cut them at certain lengths if you need small sections and not the full length.

I recommend this very much but if you will be looking directly at them they will be VERY bright and when you look away you everything will be purple (at least with my green LEDS).

The PDB i had chosen out is apparently not a good choice. Im going to go with the one you pointed out, thanks.

I'm adding the M3 screws to the list as well as the standoffs, thanks :)

I already have LED like these (without the remote), will they work?
I have some velcro straps, all the sodering tools and plenty of wire and the such. I need to get the UBEC, thanks

Thanks! That's correct, the strip is facing the wall.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Very lengthy, great purchase, and strong/bright light. Definitely recommend!

I have these- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QAX8YPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Are they perfect? nop the sticky part isnt the best so I used a double sided tape on them. Its been over a year now and they still work like they are brand new. Here is how it looks on my PC https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dnh8Ju5p4M. For a review type of a video you should watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhnGQ5flw_Q .

There is another option but it is more expensive the NZXT HUE+ which I hear is pretty good!

[This salt lamp!](
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001892AX2/ref=aw_ls_4_6?colid=3TU9BPA96WWTH&coliid=IM8PVW9J0LY1O&vs=1)

I have psoriatic arthritis and severe allergies. I was on medicine used for chemotherapy for it, but I decided I'm too young to be on all these drugs. I've been trying to do everything naturally and take care of myself. I have a lot of trouble sleeping, so someone recommended that I buy one of these lamps to help me. Thanks for the contest! :)

One of the issues with the strips is electrical efficiency.

They run at 12 volts and there are 3 LEDs in series. This is fine for the blue since blue LEDs have a voltage drop of 3.1-3.3 volts or so. Round up to 10 volts and you only lose 2 volt to the series resistor.

The red LEDs have a voltage drop of about 2.0-2.2 volts or so. Call it 6.5 volts for the 3 red LEDs in series. That means 5.5 volts is being lost to the resistor and wasted as heat.

Most all strips also use cheap Epistar LEDs which are also not very electrically efficient in general. You can find better strips like by Philips but are more expensive.

http://www.amazon.com/Philips-800284-Lightstrip-Plus-Generation/dp/B014H2OXYU/ref=pd_sim_201_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=318BBua5k4L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1NXDXB4BBSW1B01J8BKF

You really do get what you pay for so eBay rgb strips would have to be pretty close to the plants and you would have to look out for excess stem elongation. Our eyes are not very sensitive to red/blue light like green light so you would need an appropriate light meter to dial things in particularly for microgreens and for cloning.

Most everyone uses high power LEDs rather than medium (strip) or low power LEDs. You can get high power rbg LEDs on eBay but again it will be of low quality like pretty much all LED lighting sold on eBay. You longer term ROI (return on investment) tends to be better with higher quality LEDs and LED lights.

I'm using that roledro light now in my bucket for my first grow, works great. I am using these led light strips LEDMO 5630 LED Strip, Daylight 300pcs SMD 5630LEDs 16.4Ft DC12V Waterproof IP65, 25Lm/LED, 2 times brightness than SMD5050 LED Ribbon, LED Light Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01339G2F6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZCkMDb4E4WEW5. You need to get the power supply which is sold separately. Good luck!

I'd apply it to whatever else I was going to buy on Amazon anyways hahaha

Don't feel like it is burn a hole in your pocket. Sooner or later you will think of something you need.

Or if you really want to blow it on something cool, I recommend a himalayan salt lamp. I fucking love mine. Not something necessary but it makes me happy.

The storm has lights on it as standard doesn't it? If not I suggest them as an aid to keep orientation.

I use strips of LED ribbon stuck to the frame engine mounts to let me know where I'm pointed. They occasionally get ripped and damaged but having them on the motor mounts rather than front and back really helps and it's easy to snip and replace.

Also, it's easy to panic but be prepared to power down when you lose control. Your powered recovery attempt took you from a nice, open space with a guaranteed soft landing to a wooded area across the path of some walkers. You chose that area to test for a reason. Set yourself a rough perimeter you're happy with. Attempt recovery by all means but if you start to leave the area you chose, ditch it down.

Thanks so much! I highly recommend these LED strips. They're paper thin so they bend easily at the corners of a detolf. You'll need this adapter for the power.

My only complaint about them is that they're a little too bright at first. You get used to them though! You can't beat this nice even white lighting and the ease of installation.

I second this! I have this one and my SO and I love it. It's the perfect brightness.

I'll link the full order:

• LED light strip
  
• LED light strip power connector 8mm
  
• L-shape LED strip connector
  
• DC power adapter
  
• DC cable extension
  
• DC switch
  
• DC cable splitter
  
  I am not 100% happy with the light strip I got. They are super sensitive to the power draw and flickers time to time(maybe it's the power adapter =/). Though, it's cheap and does its job pretty well!
  
  [EDIT] correcting the led power connect as opinted out by /u/BishoujoReview
  
  [EDIT] flickering was due to an old extension cord. I plugged the power adapter directly to the wall outlet and that solved the problem.

These are the lights I bought! Super easy to install. There's also a compatible remote in case you can't easily reach the outlet to plug and unplug your lights but I passed on that. I believe it also can control exactly how bright the lights are in case you find they're too bright.

I recommend this strip personally. Used it in a mod for Quakcon a couple of years back and loved it. Programmable colors, lets you save up to four different color profiles plus change them in several minor stages in each tint. Different flashing effects if you're into that also. Plenty of length and easy to work with,

Here’s what I would do:

Cozy:

• add a bed skirt. Trust me, it will make a huge difference
  
• add a big rug (a few feet smaller than the size of the room).
  
• add some real or fake plants
  
• add some real or fake flowers
  
• add a full length mirror.
  
• hang up your artwork.
  
• add some floating shelves with some “cozy” knickknacks (e.g. a salt lamp)
  
• put some throw pillows on your bed.
  
• hang some curtains, ditch the blinds
  
• add a beautiful floor lamp
  
• add a bed canopy/net
  
  Functional:
  
• it looks like you have a yoga mat in the corner. Why not set up a little yoga/meditation area? Complete with candles and floor cushions
  
• add an ottoman to the foot of your bed (storage + seating)
  
• add a basket to store extra blankets and pillows
  
• add a bookshelf. Fill with books.
  
• if you work from home, maybe put in a desk?
  
• rearrange the furniture and add some accent chairs
  
  

See the link! Love that it has magnets which makes it super easy to deal with.

LED Strip

I'm looking to buy Aura Sync compatible RGB strips for my Fractal Design Define S case.

How many strips would I need to provide a full illumination while looking through the window side panel? Are 2 strips enough? If so, which locations would be better to install it in (e.g. top and bottom)? Any recommendations on brands? I've heard Phanteks is good.

I'm planning on connecting this to my Asus Strix B350 motherboard which I believe has 2 RGB headers so I'm guessing that should be able to accommodate 2 strips fine.

Thanks in advance.

I had a look on Amazon.com and the "Amazon choice" one at $49.99 would be sufficient for 1 plant in enclosed conditions like a spacebucket.

https://www.amazon.com/Rolledro-Lights-Indoor-Spectrum-Hydroponics/dp/B00RWYCRB2

Then you will want to get a 5630 led strip for side lighting. Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Flexible-Daylight-Waterproof-brightness/dp/B01339G2F6

Although I wouud recommend searching on Amazon for "5630 led strip" and looking for one that is both waterproof, adhesive backed and has a usb connector for easy installation. The one I linked is just the LED strip on its own.

Sure first here's the LED strips, Power Adapters, and Dimmer. Looks like they've gone up in price a bit since I did it but it's still not too bad. I didn't take any in progress pictures so I'll just have to describe how setup went. The LED strips come with a sticky back side so I just stuck that to the poles on the front side of the Detolf. I used 1 LED strip, 1 dimmer, and 1 power adapter per 2 Detolfs but you could also use 1 strip per Detolf. This will give you more even lighting, and the power adapter should still be able to handle powering 2 fine, you'd just need to also buy a connector for the 2 strips. After you've got the stuff its as simple as just taping on the stip in a |‾| running from the outside poles and across the top of the Detolf, running the power cord outside of it through the gap in the door, and the plugging in the dimmer.

I also have a Spliff and my doggo pulls me too! I like that you have a harness on your pup, I've seen dogs with collars being chocked as they run -_-

If you plan on mushing at night, I'd recommend this for your dog's collar and these for your board! This combo makes you and your dog visible, plus glow wheels are dope. Here's a video showing how bright they are in different settings. Have fun!

If you like things that project patterns onto walls and ceilings I've got one of these, it's pretty cool. Every time I turn it on it somewhat reminds me of bringing up the galaxy map in Mass Effect. http://www.amazon.com/HPI-5105-Laser-Star/dp/B000VBNIP2
Pictures and video don't really do justice but this one is alright.
http://youtu.be/kG8sFGMKcX4
I did voluntarily replace the fan though since I didn't like the noise it made and it improved operation.

Depends on how deep your aquarium is, and how bright the florescent bulb is. But probably not enough light tbh. Here's what I've been doing lately. Get some LED strip lights, then attach them however you want. You could remove the florescent blulb and attach these inside the light fixture you already have. You could even wrap them around your florescent light bulb. Or you could create your own light fixture using rain gutter from a hardware store (if you are in the US, i'd recommend Lowes over home depot, they have better gutter at Lowes). It will be long (15 feet or so) so you'll have to run it back and forth a few times. This will give you enough light to grow even high light plants.

Also, it seems counterintuitive, but I'd recommend the non-waterproof lights. They are much brighter.

In my example, I believe I would need 3 FLS-PP IP Zigbee ballasts ($55ea), 1-2 RGBW LED strips ($17ea), 3 power adaptors ($17ea), a splitter (~$15ea), and 4 ethernet cable adaptors (~$20 total). Grand total ~$268 on the conservative end + tax.

Or I could buy 3 Hue lightstrips ($90ea), splitter (~$15ea), and 4 ethernet cable adaptors (~$20 total). Grand total ~$305 + tax.

I could save ~$40 or bite the bullet and know that my current ecosystem will work seamlessly with the Hue lightstrips. Either way its not cheap but there are trade offs to going the DIY route.

Please disprove my estimates/theory, I would happily pay less for a setup with equal functionality :)

P.S. I'll add links to the items listed above but I'm on the train commuting in and the wifi sucks :/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHLIFO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are great. You tape up one line on each side of your cabinet, wire them together, and its perfect. :)

I would instead get a roll of the newer/larger SMD6530 LED's (25 lumens per LED) ($10.99), plus power($5-10) and a simple on/off switch ($4-5).

Brighter, cheaper, and you have the remaining 14-15 FEET of LED's for under shelf lighting or other projects around the house/garage!

Great also for gun safes, garages, etc. You can put a rotary dimmer, or IR motion detector on them as well!

GL!

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

I just picked these up on Amazon. It's only about 3.5 feet but that was perfect for behind my desk. This one runs off of USB so I actually have it routed to plug into my computer but you can also use a USB power brick and plug it into the wall. I'm really liking it so far!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FJUMP6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6IpHybQE9Y5KS

LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Light Strip, 300 Units SMD 2835 LEDs, 12V DC Non-waterproof, Light Strips, LED ribbon, DIY Christmas Holiday Home Kitchen Car B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_2SymgZC3bfdjW

This is the better set! More length, more lights, and better stability! Just have to buy the power adapter!

Yes, good eye! We used this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHLIFO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It can be cut to desired length. We we only put one strip in towards the front but after having all our minerals in there it would be better to have a second in the back. Also the underside of the tape that is adhesive is like a copper look, so we are going to get some white opaque tape to cover it from the outside.

Could not get RGB in the the price without compromising on other parts of the build. I have these RBG strips in my PC for $20 and they work pretty good.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $59.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $82.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $89.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $39.99 @ Best Buy
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card | $269.89 @ OutletPC
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G Mini (Black) MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $54.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | EVGA - 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $845.49
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-13 23:25 EDT-0400 |

https://www.amazon.com/Laser-Stars-Indoor-Light-Show/dp/B000VBNIP2

Not the best for a "star projector", but definitely fun to have, and cool to space out on.

Laster Star Projector This isn't in the picture but I highly recommend it! It's a little expensive but worth every penny. I haven't been able to find a picture that does it justice yet. It's a must-have for any trippy room.

Amazon link They're the first and only dog lights I've ever used so I have nothing to compare them to BUT they are awesome! Way brighter than I expected

I probably would have gone with something like this for the lights.

Or if you really wanted to get fancy, you could go with something like this that comes with a remote and is RGB so you can have any color you want. The RGB ones generally come with an adapter for the power and an IR controller so you can change the color like this. Honestly, I would be really leery about using what I assume are just Christmas lights.

I went with the Animal Plastics T8, didn't seem worth the extra $50 for 3" of vertical space that my BPs wouldn't use. I skipped the UTH and went with overhead heat with a Radiant Heat Panel. More expensive, but heats very well. The reality is that a tank can work, but it takes much more constant monitoring and tweaking.

My setup:
Animal Plastics T8 enclosure.

Herpstat 4 thermostat (http://spyderrobotics.com/products/herpstat_4.html)

Pro-Products PH-3 radiant heat panel (http://pro-products.com/pro-heat/)

LED light kit (http://www.amazon.com/HitLights-Eclipse-Pre-Cut-Multicolor-Accent/dp/B006U5SE7U)

AcuRite Thermometer/Hygrometer (http://www.walmart.com/ip/AcuRite-Digital-Humidity-and-Temperature-Monitor/16888914)

ZooMed Forest Floor 100% Cypress Mulch or ReptiChip (not reptibark!) seems to be really solid choices for substrate.

what about a gift card for a spa or nail salon? depends where you live but a standard manicure is usually around the $30-$60 range.
maybe a diffuser or himalayan salt lamp if she's into that kind of holistic stuff.
you could also get some fancy candles, a little body care gift set, or some nice bath stuff for her to do an at-home spa/relaxation day.

Analyzing doktorinjh

• comments per month: 20.1 ^I ^help!
  
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• favorite sub DIY
  
• favorite words: really, you're, through
  
• age 3 years 5 months ^old ^man
  
• profanity score 0.3% ^Gosh ^darnet ^gee ^wiz
  
• trust score 70.4%
  
  
• Fun facts about doktorinjh
  
  • "I've lived here for 15 years and I work seasonal and professional jobs, mostly because I like that schedule."
    
  • "I've seen on here."
    
  • "I've been working here for 15 years."
    
  • "I've used these strips and you could get 1,000 for just over $200."
    
  • "I've tried to find something similar on the Google patent search pages and so far, nothing close has turned up."
    
  • "I've had good success using ponoko.com for some laser cut pieces for my projects."
    
  • "I've been hanging around this sub)."
    
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  • "I've also experienced."
    

Yes, you'll need this:

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Fan-Controller-Commander-CL-9011110-WW/dp/B0725HP1J2/

This diagram should help:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KmfuuJRuxWEYymro9

When installing the H100i, it comes with a RGB splitter that plugs into the pump/CPU block, so no need to plug RGB in hub. However, you do need to plug the fans in the hub.

It does take a bit of work, but it's definitely worth it in the end.

Edit: revised diagram

Edit2: He forgot a PSU, I recommend this one for the build: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/p9YLrH/corsair-rmx-white-2018-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020187-na

ouch, blue light is pretty harsh on eyes, especially with it looking like some kind of lamp right there reflecting.

if i were you op id grab soemthing like this https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Flexible-Controller/dp/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469845526&sr=8-3&keywords=led+strip and use some tape/stickytac and put strips on teh back of your entertainment stand so it looks like teh while thing is glowing.

SUPERNIGHT 5M/16.4 Ft SMD 3528 RGB 300 LED Color Changing Kit with Flexible Strip Light+24 Key IR Remote Control+ Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BP4DUMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CXJHAbJMEYABM

And

Nexlux WiFi Wireless LED Smart Controller Working with Android and IOS System Mobile Phone Free App for GRB LED Light Strips 5050 3528 LEDs Comes With One 24 Keys Remote Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07116SX41/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4XJHAbKQHB744

Download the app for the controller and you can customize it fully via your smart phone.

Laser Stars Projector I love love love mine.

This link isn't from .ca, but I'm sure they have it, too.

For sure man, I'd either recommend:

https://www.amazon.com/DeepDream-16-4Ft-Flexible-Waterproof-Supply/dp/B01C2NQWIQ/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=black+light+strip&qid=1557257167&s=gateway&sr=8-7

or

https://www.amazon.com/Onforu-Flexible-Blacklight-Non-Waterproof-Fluorescent/dp/B07D7RKJYS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=black+light+strip&qid=1557257167&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

They both work totally fine. The first one I have linked is a bit higher quality than the second from my experience (I actually have both in my room). If you only need to cover 16 or so feet than go with the first. If you need 33 ft. I'd say go with the 2nd option- that ones a 33 footer that has real good performance for price ratio.

My buddy came up with the idea, but we use dog collar LED lights (also at Home Depot) on our discs. Just remove light from metal ring, drill hole in disc, secure light, enjoy.

Pros: watching it soar at night, not losing your disc, playing after sunset, light shines through both sides

Cons: affects disc flight, falls off if you hit a tree hard, big hole in disc

edit: I'll post an actual photo of disc when off work.

Pi and Arduino were both from microcenter and I already had both . Everything else was originally from amazon. Not factored into my cost was the power supply. I already had one in my media center setup and was able to piggy back off that.
LEDs
Splitter
HdmiRCA
Grabber
Happy to answer any questions. This is a fun project.

SUPERNIGHT LED Strip Lights -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BP4DUMU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - These are good for the price but I recommend the brand 'Daybetter.' They're more expensive but good and they're waterproof.

As someone who's recently begun night-time MTB riding through the forest with their dog, I'd highly recommend getting some kind of LED light that hangs from their collar. I dropped about $6 on this guy at a local store, but there are plenty of options.

Not only does it help you know where your dog is if he's outside the beam of your light, it helps you quickly know if the illuminated eyes staring back at you out of the darkness belong to your friendly puppers, or a ferocious beast of the night.

Unless your puppers is in fact a ferocious beast of the night.

I would suggest using a purpose built LED strip. These things are great, you can cut them to any length and they even make waterproof versions. I don't know what voltage the RPi outputs but I believe they even make 5v versions that can be run directly from an Arduino/probably anything outputting a digital signal.

If you're set on using the LEDs you have, you can use an online calculator to figure out exactly what resistors you'll need. It shouldn't be much more complicated than the strips, you'll just have to deal with making some sort of mount/enclosure instead of just sticking them on.

If by 'control' you mean you want to dim them, look into pulse width modulation. The second strip I linked is RGB which you can fairly easily control from an Arduino/probably RPi, don't know the specifics though. Hope that helped, if you have any specific questions let us know.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | $194.79 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $114.85 @ OutletPC
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $65.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Sabrent Rocket 256 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $39.98 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $79.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | PowerColor Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Video Card | $409.99 @ Newegg
Case | Phanteks P300 ATX Mid Tower Case | $53.00 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA B3 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $94.89 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan | $14.95 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan | $14.95 @ Amazon
Monitor | Dell S2719DGF 27.0" 2560x1440 155 Hz Monitor | $319.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1448.27
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $1403.27
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-17 11:21 EDT-0400 |

Some of Phanteks LED strips for the case. It has a built in controller for these strips, so installation will be easy.

Thanks! They were pretty easy. Just a 12V wall wart and these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Corsair has their Commander pro

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Fan-Controller-Commander-CL-9011110-WW/dp/B0725HP1J2


it also integrates with their Lighting Node PRO: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Fan-Controller-Commander-CL-9011110-WW/dp/B01MYDTC2C

It would integrate with the H100i and run RGB stuff.. Not to mention you can also control Fan's..

Their new iCUE software looks to be pretty good and getting better (now that the programming is handled in house and not a 3rd party developer)

I would get that over say anything NZXT as I HATE CAM (software) - but that is a personal grudge..

If you want RGB full integration / Fans(LED's) Mouse / Keyboard / Light strip LED's you would be best served going with one Eco system..

check out this post :http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=173880

I got two different strips. A 16.4 ft white strip and a 16.4 ft UV strip. I'll have to cut them obviously, but that's the good thing about led strip lights, they can easily be trimmed every few LEDs, and come clearly marked where you need to cut them to not damage anything.

Ok so I was thinking of using the LED strip, then use the T-shape connector and the L-shape connector to connect all the strip together. The T-shape connector will be connect with a cord as well like in the diagram I drew. But I’m a noob and I don’t know if this is possible to make, and what kind of cord or wire should I use in this case? Anyone have any idea or guidance here to help me out?

These lights here are pretty good for any man cave https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Changing-Flexible-Remote-Control/dp/B00BP4DUMU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497136898&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=led+light+strip&psc=1

And if you want to spend some money on a good frame job for a jersey I got mine from Detroit City Sports. It's about $300 but they do a really nice job.

Your mean the M5? If so, no, it doesn't support any control. The newer Msi boards have 'Mystic' RGB controllers. That's fine though it'll just mean you have to buy something with an onboard controller. [This one](ATTAV RGB Magnetic LED Light Strip Full Kit for PC Computer Case, Fixed by Powerful Magnet, Multi Function Remote Control, Color Changing, 12-Inch 18 LEDs(Included 2 LED Strip) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQS65BM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CgO-ybBKKWRJ8) seems to have pretty good reviews.

And get OS from /r/microsoftsoftwareswap or for free somehow...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6400 2.7GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $53.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill NT Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $32.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Mushkin ECO3 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $64.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $48.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB GAMING Video Card | $249.99 @ B&H
Case | Enermax OSTROG ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $54.99 @ Newegg
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link TL-WN881ND PCI-Express x1 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter | $17.08 @ OutletPC
Keyboard | Thermaltake CHALLENGER PRIME Wired Gaming Keyboard | $26.99 @ SuperBiiz
Other| Redragon M901 PERDITION 16400 DPI High-Precision Programmable Laser Gaming Mouse for PC, MMO, 18 Programmable Buttons, Weight Tuning Cartridge, 12 Side Buttons, 5 programmable user profiles, Omron Micro Switches (White) | $35.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $815.54
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-12 08:48 EDT-0400 |

https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Remote-Control-Computer-ST-CLEDLS/dp/B00QAX8YPY


Cannot think of any other way of getting you all these colors without hurting the builds performance.I believe it came out nicely.

Beautiful! Lights I guess are just preference. I bought LED lights for my case, I don't use it much anymore but it's nice to keep it illuminated. I purchased this one. I actually have the same motherboard as you as well, you just plug it into the RGB header and it syncs up with the MSI Mystic software

My kids got this for Christmas and still use it almost daily. It covers a huge area, it's very neat and relaxing.

This is absolutely not what you asked for, but is AWESOME for this type of stuff. $15 (with prime) and you have a remote control, colors, patterns, and more. I have used multiple kits now for all sorts of stuff!

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Flexible-Controller/dp/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1427122039&sr=8-3&keywords=rgb+led

Yes, you do, in order to connect the RGB parts of the fans to the Commander Pro. The commander basically has a lighting node pro built into it (it has the same two ports), which means the fans have to be plugged into the hub to connect to the pro. If you look at the picture of the pro, there's 6 connectors that say fans at the top, and those are your PMW fan headers. To the left of that are two ports that say LED. You can plug two RGB hubs into this, or you can do like me and plug in 1 RGB hub and 1 set of Light strips. Each RGB hub has 6 ports, and after checking on amazon, is $20 new.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725HP1J2/ref=twister_B075HCHBYS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I tried gutting the old fluorescent fixtures and putting these strips in them with these power supplies. I only did two of the 6 so far because I wanted to see how they held up after a year or so.

So far so-so, its more work than its worth and I would rather buy some than do the rest of them, but I haven't found any that look good and are hard wired for 110V (most have plugs).

I suppose I will finish them eventually as I already have all the parts.

Also, I can control them all with this remote, which is nice.

This is the one I got and it works amazing:

Laser Twilight Indoor Light Show - Bring the Night Sky into Your Home https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VBNIP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZCwBCbMN5EC39

The stars are lasers instead of being projected. Plus it also has a projector for the nebula-esque part. I’ve had mine for years now and it still works great.

Ultimately, use the space you have; mitigate the clutter that exist on the real estate you have at your disposal. Made a small list of affordable items you can buy (one at a time, if need be):

small shelving unit

extended mouse pad

LED strips (best behind the desk)

velcro cable ties

Recommend a monitor and laptop stand to keep your eye level in-line with your displays.

Good luck!

EDIT: Formatting is hard

My friend told me about that a few months back and I think they might exist now but I'm not sure.

For OP - These just came in today and they look sweet plus one of the modes cycles through the spectrum. I wouldn't call it a "wave" as in the colors change from left to right, like an RGB keyboard; they all change at once and you can control the speed too

Most modern motherboards today support RGB fan controls. Corsair makes it easier to control RGB even on an older motherboard that doesn't normally support RGB without workarounds (USB header / rgb fan manufacturer software controls). I believe you can connect it to a USB header and all you would need is Corsair Link (old) / Corsair iCUE (new) to control the RGB.

https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-CL-9011109-WW-Lighting-Node-PRO/dp/B01MYDTC2C/

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Fan-Controller-Commander-CL-9011110-WW/dp/B0725HP1J2

I use these and they work great: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QAX8YPY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459252271&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=computer+led
You can pretty much change the color to whatever you want and has multiple cycling modes.
Here are some pictures of it in my build: http://imgur.com/a/R9Ead

Thanks for all the help.

I have a proposed rig that I'd like to review with you.

1. Power supply. 20000mAH as you suggested. Has a dc out.
   
2. Male to Male coupler to plug in the power splitter from #3 into the power supply.
   
3. Power Splitterto distribute power to the 5 panels
   
4. A Dimmer is attached to each end of the splitter.
   
5. Finally, the end of the led strips are connected to this DC connector cable to plug into the male end of the dimmer.
   
6. [LED strip lights] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AAF37WJS3P6BT)
   
   I went the route of non-soldering, and I don't mind having the cable lengths. Will this work or just blow up in my face?

I got [these lights] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with [this power adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) from Amazon. The lights are sticky on the back. What I did was run it up the front corner on the left, across the top, and down the front corner on the right. It does a pretty decent job of lighting everything up. I can take a picture when I get home if you like.

>If it doesn't look cool he won't be interested in it

That sounds like the opinion of a brat imo.

When I was a kid and my older bro built a PC (he's significantly older), I wanted one too. He said if I helped him work off the debt he would help me buy/build my own. It wasn't much, but it was enough to play basic games, and the process helped me learn more about the hobby on my own. I was ecstatic because it was my own personal build. Plus, it gave my brother and I something to bond over, even with the massive age gap.

This project is about a lot more than building a shiny rig, bro.

Ninja edit: plus, a couple cheap lighting strips off amazon makes PCs shiner and faster!

I had undercabinet florescent with power coming directly into them, and I replaced them with a combination of led strip lighting, diffusers and individual power supplies. Then I changed the switch to a GE z-wave. Here's a list of the products I used:

Power Supply: ($14 x 3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R17YQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED Lights: ($8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diffusers: ($26)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJSUZSK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Zwave Switch (now they are $38, but I got some on clearance for $21)

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Required-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519156674&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ge+zwave&psc=1

All in all I replaced lighting under the three main cabinets and the total cost was under $100. I'm not sure it was the best way to do it, but it works! For my application dimming wasn't what I was looking for, but I think you could swap out some parts for the dimmable versions.

These things work pretty well and are fairly bright for their size, but ones that blink are even better.

Nexlux LED Strip Lights, Wifi Wireless Smart Phone Controlled Light Strip Kit 16.4ft 150leds 5050 Waterproof IP65 LED Lights ,Working with Android and IOS System,Alexa, Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072DXFKRH?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

The WiFi Alexa controls are great!!

I use this. This should convert dmx to led talk. And you will need a power supply.

For best results I power my strips from both aide. Other wise they will get darker as the strip gets longer.

I'm using these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BP4DUMU/ref=pd_aw_lpo_60_bs_img_1/143-1079596-6249421?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D5ZKS5T9GAN7CZWFXFSA

P.s. the adhesive on the strips are mediocre, I had to eventually strap then down with duct tape. Works like a charm other wise though.

I was thinking the same thing, LED strip lights and a power supply can be had for cheap i.e.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The linked LED strip even came with a barrel connector already connected and ready to plug in, as well as a secondary connector, just cut to get the desired amount of light, then peel and stick.

I just redid my mother's under cabinet kitchen(note: I used the waterproof version of those) lighting for like $30, previously she spent like $300 on expensive proprietary LED pucks(that she can't even buy any more) and electrician to hard wire it(I piggy backed my power supply off the touch power switch for the LED pucks and installed an inline rocker switch on the power cord that went to the power supply I used)

I have [THESE] (https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-LEDKT_Combo-Strip-Combo-Retail/dp/B01HUFMIZ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538485421&sr=8-1&keywords=phanteks+rgb+strip) plugged into my X370 gaming pro carbon.

BUT

Pretty sure the b450 has a JRGB1 header. Go [HERE] (https://www.msi.com/Landing/mystic-light-motherboard), find your board, scroll down to the Products section & in the Components menu find RGB Strip. Any of those should work including the ones I posted.

tech-wise, you're all set.

Style wise.....I have a suggestion. I would go with some corsair af120 fans, because they have such a nice red shroud (seen in my "shameless-plug new build"

I also got these LED strips which are awesome!

These color LED lights are super cool and cheap on Amazon. You can change colors and patterns with a little remote control! https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BP4DUMU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the LED strip I used. Super easy to install! Just needed to find a 12v adapter to power it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n0BFybX7K675J

The bulb resets to the normal white light at full brightness (i.e., 2710K). You may want to complement the A19 bulbs with a Lightstrip Plus. These have the same color representation as the Gen 3 bulbs and work great under counters or behind TVs: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Lightstrip-Generation-Works-Amazon/dp/B014H2OXYU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499286818&sr=1-1&keywords=B014H2OXYU&linkCode=ll1&tag=huelig0f-20&linkId=3802c08990317c43565155ebca823ddc

Very, if you don't have a molex plug on your gpu then they sell some that run off of USB.

These are pretty good intro into the world of LEDs:

Black PCB TV BackLight Kit,Computer Case LED Light,eTopxizu 3.28Ft Multi-colour 30leds Flexible 5050 RGB USB LED Strip Light with 5v USB Cable And Mini Controller For TV/PC/Laptop Background Lighting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FJUMP6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_trEKybXWJH0V4

I bought this and they work pretty well.
Nexlux LED Strip Lights, WiFi Wireless Smart Phone Controlled Light Strip Kit 16.4ft 150leds 5050 Waterproof IP65 LED Lights,Working with Android and iOS System,IFTTT, Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072DXFKRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LFuVBbQDF2FN5

It was actually just done with an LED light strip from Amazon. It was a little difficult because it was super windy out there so I had very little control of where the lights were waving. But, it ended up working out pretty well as all the photos were different from each other and had their own unique wind patterns.

Almost any bulb should work ok as long as it is near the 6500k range like you've read about already.

I've used various brands of both CFL and LED lights successfully.

I eventually started using strip lights with a 12vdc power source attached the bottom side of my fruiting chamber lid.

Something more lantern-like works better. Nitize makes an LED collar and a LED marker carabiner that are perfect for keeping track of your dog.

^^Also good for small children.

I bought a 12 V LED strip, like this from Amazon. I wired two equal-length strips in series, so that each strip sees 12 V. I then wired that to the PSU, so that whenever the printer is on, the LEDs are on. It works great!

I have these they work fantastic! If you decided to splice them for a shelf or something, make sure you solder them in place. I have a review on Amazon with using them on my bar shelves

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072DXFKRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_fop1BbT83PS1H

my motherboard manual says i can plug in 5050 RGB Strips 12V up to 2 continuous meters with max power rating of 3A/12V

i'd like white strips since my case is white and if they have magnetics that be nice but i can live with magnets

Are the Phanteks a good choice of product?

What other LED strips would work in these JRGB headers on the mobo?

Yes, you are right. This fan RGB connector is supposed to go to a controller and then to the motherboard.

The controller should be something like this (this is the corsair model):

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Fan-Controller-Commander-CL-9011110-WW/dp/B0725HP1J2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=rgb+fan+controller&qid=1573339770&s=music&sr=8-1

It's expensive, but this is by far the best one I have ever seen, hands-down: http://www.amazon.com/Laser-Stars-Indoor-Light-Show/dp/B000VBNIP2/

I would recommend this. You can cycle through any color, and it has a remote that you can use. The back of mine had ready to peel tape, so it would make mounting easier.

I can't find the link to ones I bought for our kitchen remodel back in 2013. These are pretty close to what we had. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wynpzb5W6ZPSQ

We may have ordered more of a yellow light instead of a daylight LED (more blueish). You can attach these with a very strong double stick tape without much of a profile.

Probably used a kit like this. Same one I have and works great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3GYM455B71YGR

16 feet and more LED's per foot, but half the price. Unless I am mistaken, you can use 12v from your PSU to power them with a little Macgyvering, or buy a kit with a power supply included and plug them separately.

But yes, there are lines drawn on LED strips where it is safe to cut. Just in case a given strip is not marked...You'll see a place with 4(RGB + Ground) little copper contacts every 4 inches(maybe it's 3, I don't recall), you'll want to cut those in half. You can't cut them in just any old place, that can and will screw them up.

If you do it right, you can even solder on wires and make extensions and re-use the rest of the strip in a different location, like on the underside or the back of your case. There are even kits that exist to make that easier.

I have a cheap ATTAV LED strip from Amazon. One strip along the bottem and one front left edge. It's not a great system and I'd prefer an NZXT Hue+ but $18 vs $60...ya know.

Here

I've had it for about a year and it still works great.

I think everyone can find solace in the fact that a band would never announce or tease an album via their video guy. On the way to Walmart I pondered to myself, "how funny would it be to live stream this trip?" I actually ended up taking that rope light back - it was too heavy to hang the way I did so I ordered these which I think will work better. It's lighting for a bookshelf. So I first took a plug and wired it to a switch then the switch goes to a female end of the cable (all purchased from Lowes). I mounted the switch on the back of the bookshelf so I can turn the bookshelf on and off. Since the rope lights were too heavy to tape to the top of each shelf with 3M, I got something lighter that actually can be cut up into different lengths. I'll edit this post with pictures when it goes down!

They are incredibly bright and very helpful! Here.

It looks like the power supply is 5V 2.5mA. If I go with 5V LEDs like the below, I feel like it should work. Then again, I'm not electrician, I'm just making things up as I go.

https://smile.amazon.com/ALITOVE-WS2812B-Individually-Addressable-Waterproof/dp/B00ZHB9M6A/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1494606267&sr=8-16&keywords=5v+led+strip

I am curious why these need to be automated... why not just have a switch? I'd just buy a long strip of LED lights and wire it all up myself. Then if I wanted to automate them I'd plug it all into a smart plug. You will need to drill some holes in the back of the cabinet. maybe do two strips under each shelf.

​

I'd use something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Kitchen-Christmas-Non-waterproof-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC

The LED strip is marketed only for the Phanteks Luxe case, a bulky full tower case. The LED strip recommended by Phanteks to use with the P400S is the combo pack here

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-LEDKT-COMBO-Strip-Combo-Retail/dp/B01HUFMIZ2/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1482859136&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=phanteks+P400S+led

If your goal is maxing out FPS at max settings, a 1070 would probably serve you well

Finally, if you want to overclock, I'd say go with the Corsair H60 liquid cooler for about 30 bucks more than the 212 EVO. It'll have way better performance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K1cK6lWrIoA

Sorry, I probably should have had more details. They are WS2812B. They came in a 150 strip from Amazon (Link below). I have cut it down to 121 LED and arranged from in a matrix. I've tried reuploading a smaller simple piece of code, and it won't light up still. Bear in mind the LEDs were working perfectly when I got them. I will post the simple code and make a wiring diagram when I get home. Thanks.


LEDS: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZHB9M6A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They provide enough light but aren't super bright, I do have the option of putting another strip across (I only used half) to make it brighter but 1 should be enough. You can't beat the price: LEDs and Power Source . I originally was going to hold them up by zip ties, but the backing is sticky enough to stay on the wire shelf. I'm not sure how well it will stand up in the future but for now it's great.

Nice collection! Just a little suggestion. Maybe consider adding light strips like these to the bottom of the top shelf so you could see all the Pops on the bottom shelf

Ive found lighting strips at home hardware (Any home modification store would likely have them) or you could order them on amazon. Just obviously read reviews. They sometimes come with a really sticky backing thatll allow you to just stick em up, but other times theyll come with some other reinforcement or a recommended reinforcement that you have to purchase separately.

https://www.amazon.ca/RioRand-Waterproof-300LEDs-Flexible-Controller/dp/B00KUTTWFK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R168WEEAD8EX90VSX1YW
^^^ Cheap and the reviews aren't bad considering the price. Also comes with self adhering double sided tape.

https://www.amazon.ca/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Decoration-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC
^^^These are just plain white it seems but again the reviews aren't bad and they're reasonably priced.

I have 2 Himalayan salt lamps near my computer beside being a natural air purifier they:

>In addition to generating negative ions which improve mood and energy levels, the soft, natural light given off by a Himalayan pink salt lamp is close enough to the warm glow of sunshine that they can even be used to relieve the symptoms of Seasonal Affective Disorder. This year when the days get shorter, fight back the lethargy by surrounding yourself with a few HPS lamps set on timers.


>Himalayan salt lamps purify air through the power of hygroscopy, meaning that they attract water molecules from the surrounding environment then absorb those molecules – as well as any foreign particles they may be carrying – into the salt crystal. As the HPS lamp warms up from the heat produced by the light bulb inside, that same water then evaporates back into the air and the trapped particles of dust, pollen, smoke, etc remain locked in the salt.


>Another side effect which results from over-exposure to positive ions in the air is that it robs you of quality sleep. This happens because those positively-charged particles can actually reduce blood and oxygen supply to the brain resulting in irregular sleep patterns. Himalayan pink salt lamps are natural negative ion generators, thus they can help to reverse this problem. Keep one or two around your bedroom to improve the air quality so you can get a better night’s sleep.


>As they emit negative ions into the air, Himalayan salt lamps work to neutralize electromagnetic radiation. Keep one next to the computer, television, and any other electrical devices which you use frequently to reduce the potential danger to you and your family.


https://www.amazon.com/Himalayan-Glow-1002-Certified-Dimmable/dp/B001892AX2?th=1

Depending on your budget, I just stuck LED strips around an existing mirror because the lighted mirrors were way too pricey for me. I bought something like this with a power adapter and stuck it on (it has adhesive on the back). Super easy, and should be <$20.

LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Light Strip, 300 Units SMD 2835 LEDs, 12V DC Non-waterproof, Light Strips, LED ribbon, DIY Christmas Holiday Home Kitchen Car Bar Indoor Party Decoration (Daylight White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RZ4dAbA6SN1AR

And

LE Power Adapter, Transformers, Power Supply For LED Strip, Output 12V DC, 3A Max, 36 Watt Max, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_f04dAbKTW24T6

This. Honestly a nice tucked away Phanteks 1.5ft strip gives off the most tasteful, addressable, ambient RGB. They sell them in a two pack and come with a Y-splitter if you wanna use both. It's cheap and not over-stated when it's not shining directly outward, but hidden inside the case. Also Asus Aura allows me to program color saturation and LED brightness.

Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-LEDKT_Combo-Strip-Combo-Retail/dp/B01HUFMIZ2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=phanteks+rgb+strip&qid=1550761420&s=gateway&sr=8-2