Reddit mentions: The best office glue & adhesives

Hey! I was totally in this situation 6 months ago. Figuring out technique is a sort of "figure it out as you go" situation and tons of videos on youtube can help you figure it out. What I can help you with is your purchases. Figuring out what you'll need is extremely overwhelming, so here's a dirty rundown of what I've gathered so far:

1. Starting off can be pricey, so I highly recommend starting off buying cheaper make-up until you figure out your vibe. You really don't need the expensive stuff to look good, and make-up in stores like Sephora and Ulta are EXTREMELY expensive relative to how much you will be using vs. their price. That being said, amazon is your girl. Mehron has extremely cheap foundations on Amazon and they last forever (at least they did for me) - attached is my main shade, but you can look through the color options they have to guess your base/contour/highlight. I've only gone through one entire stick of my base foundation (which I use the most) since i've bought my base make up. I HIGHLY recommend in investing in beauty blenders and not brushes when it comes to foundation because i've found that beauty blenders make looks come out a lot more polished. (Not to say that good looks can't come out of brushes, I've just found blenders to be a lot easier to work with.
   
2. Once you have painted your foundation in a way you're happy with, use light layers of setting powder to set it down. Remember that although the more powder you use will have it last longer, the more cakey you'll come out. Also keep in mind that the powder will soften colors, so don't expect the foundation to be as intense as it was before you put the powder on.
   
3. Colored eyeshadow can be really tough when you don't know what colors work for you. This is the palette I highly recommend getting based on it's color variety and price. Mind you, some of the colors came in cracked, but if you press them down without mixing them into the other pots, they are deff still usable. Remember that you'll need a lot of brushes if you want to experiment with different shades. Elf brushes found at any general store (Target for example) typically go for a dollar each, so stock up on those so you have room for experimentation. I'd recommend around 10 or so just to be able to play around.
   
4. EYELINER. I personally love a sharp thick liner, so I primarily get some cheap liquid liner and cover it with black eyeshadow to make it POP. (This can also be applied to any part of painting - If you want it to really POP (I cannot stress this enough) start with a liquid or cream material and cover it with it's powdered equivalent. Any cheap elf liquid liner will do. If you're not really focused on a sharp liner, go for pencil because it's generally easier to apply.
   
5. Eyebrows - Not sure what your eyebrows are like, but trust me when I say that they're one of the biggest inconveniences when it come to painting your face. If your brows are thick, I highly suggest investing in a multipack of glue sticks. Gluing techniques vary among queens, but I tend to apply a heavy layer of glue, smooth out as much as I possibly can as fast as I can before the glue gets tacky and dry with a hairdryer. After the glue is almost dry, I apply a light layer of setting powder (DO NOT GO OVERBOARD, because your brows WILL come out crunchy). After this initial layer, continue layers of glue and LIGHT powder until they're fully blocked. Be sure that they're completely dry before you continue on to the next layer or else the tackiness will cause them to break (and you'll have to start all over). Honestly I'd say shave them off if you have the ability to do so and don't mind what you look like browless as boy.
   
6. CLEAN UP. Cleaning up is one of the things I dread most about drag. You'll need some stuff to clean both your face and materials. When it comes to removing make up, wet wipes feel nice, but are (again) pricey. If you're on a budget, cotton rounds and micellar water should do the trick just fine. When it comes to your materials (blenders and brushes) I don't care what anyone says. Dish soap and hot water will ALWAYS remove makeup quickly. Don't use any specialized brush cleansers until you feel comfortable enough to invest in quality brushes.
   
   ​
   
   Again, you don't need EVERYTHING listed above, but for my personal complete look, I require everything I mentioned. Starting off, I blew about around 300 dollars, so save money when you can. When queens joke about how they spent a lot of money to look "this" cheap, they really aren't lying. ALSO, don't be discouraged if you don't have the coin. There are tons of other resources available out there and if possible, you can always slowly acquire items over time.
   
   ​
   
   Good luck! ✨

One of the cheapest ways to significantly cut down on sound leakage is to double up the sheetrock on the walls with a layer of Green Glue in between them. Make sure to caulk all corners, joints, and anything that could possibly let air leak through it. If you can, get a door that seals shut when you close it, but if you're on a budget, just try to get a heavy, solid door, and put weather stripping around it, sealing off all the cracks.

As far as filling the walls with insulation, I know Roxul makes some great sound baffling insulations like Safe N' Sound, or other similar ones that will also help you cut down on sound leakage significantly. And if you have the time and effort, I've heard it helps to put staggered cross braces between studs to break up the large number of identical resonant chambers in the walls to several smaller, different sized resonant chambers. Granted, I've never done it before, but adding some cross braces between studs doesn't seem like a whole lot of extra work if there's a potential for it to make the room sound better. Maybe someone can chime in on how effective it really is.

Floating the floor will help a lot for isolating the bass, but you can also build some smaller platforms for things like bass and guitar amps and drum kits. Or you can get something like the Auralex Gramma pads for them if you don't want to build them yourself. They won't isolate as much as an isolated floor, but they'll help.

Then finally work on acoustic treatment to make the room sound "nice" for rehearsal and recording. Make some corner bass traps out of thick rockwool panels or Owens Corning 705/703 (depending on what you can get your hand on), hang some scattered absorption panels on the wall, leave some scattered wall surfaces bare, and maybe add some diffusers to the room to add some natural reflections and break up the big, empty, rectangular space. But acoustic treatment for a live room depends on a lot of things, so that's something you'll probably have to figure out on your own.

Luckily the 15 degree roof pitch will help a lot in taming the room and creating a more acoustically even space, which is convenient. Often studios will design all of their walls and flat surfaces to be at different angles to reduce the prominence of room modes that can create some odd sounding spots in the room. The angled roof won't make it perfect, but it will make it better than a roof that's parallel to the floor.

Yup, link worked fine. Lets figure this out.

You've got a M3D, which as /u/Keebie81 said isn't the best. If I understand it has proprietary software which could make things difficult, but we'll see what we can do.

So first off lets get some background information. What kind of filament are you using? ABS, PLA, or something else? Can you get us some idea of what settings you're using? Take screenshots of every setting page you can find so we can see what settings you have now and what extra things we have to tweak.

Just taking a look at it, it seems like you're having adhesion problems (which can be fixed with treating the print surface appropriately and fine-tuning your Z-height) and warping problems (which are usually material and temperature related).

*

We can try to take a crack at adhesion first. There's three big parts to this: making sure you've got a good surface, making sure the surface is treated with the right stuff to get maximum stick, and then making sure your nozzle is close enough to the printer to get the filament down right.

On the first point: painter's tape is a good, cheap bed surface that seems to work great for a lot of people. I use this stuff. There might be blue painter's tape somewhere in a janitor's closet or shop room somewhere, but you might have to go get some yourself. First clean off your bed surface with alcohol and a good cloth that won't leave anything behind, then lay down your strips nice and flat with no air bubbles and as little gap between them as possible. I also use a putty knife to smooth it all flat.

On the second point: getting your bed surface (and z-height) can be enough, but you can get extremely good sticking with a good bed treatment. There are two popular methods: glue sticks or hair spray. (Take a look at the "Customers who bought this also bought..." for the hair-spray, it's not what you'd expect for a beauty product.) I use that hair spray, and spray a cloth which i then wipe onto the painter's tape for a nice, even coat. You can pick some up at CVS, and I'm sure you have glue sticks laying around at school.

Finally: adjusting your z-height. This is going to be slightly hardware dependent so I may not be a ton of help here, but you have to be really precise in where your nozzle homes to. Heat up your printer (so it's thermally expanded to it's "printing" size), take a piece of white printer paper, put it under the nozzle, then land the nozzle. Now grab one edge of the paper with two hands and try to push and pull the paper. If you can easily move it without feeling any resistance from the nozzle, your nozzle tip is too high and needs to be lowered. If the paper is pinched in place and only bunches up when you try to push it, you are too low and need to raise the nozzle. If you can move it but feel a slight resistance** from the nozzle without it actually bunching up, then you're golden.

Three variations on the theme:

Mountain Creek:

Shopping List

• 25mm Hollow Blank bases
  
• Elmer's white glue.
  
• Gray Talus in Fine and Coarse (1 bag each)
  
• Earth Blended Turf (1 bag)
  
• Reaper Stone Grey (or any other medium grey paint)
  
• Reaper Brown Sand
  
• 5 Minute Quick Cure Epoxy
  
• Either Mod Podge or Liquitex Medium Gloss Gel
  
  This will provide enough material to do hundreds of bases. Really the only limit is how many of the Hollow Blank bases you buy.
  
  Instructions:
  
  

1. Prime the base black.
   
2. Paint the interior hollow of the base with the grey paint. Paint thin streaks of brown sand over the grey. Make sure all of the streaks flow in the same direction. You want a pattern like this. The streaks should run parallel to the direction the water flows.
   
3. Using superglue, glue the Space Marine into position on the base.
   
4. Using a cheap brush, paint roughly 40% of the bottom of the base with the white glue. Leave roughly 60% of the bottom clear.
   
5. Sprinkle a small amount of the Coarse talus onto the glue. If you can, paint the glue on in streaks like you did with the brown.
   
6. Sprinkle a small amount of the Fine talus onto the glue. Always sprinkle the Coarse talus first, then the Fine, as this will create a more natural looking clumping of rocks -- small rocks pile up around larger rocks, large rocks don't sit on top of piles of smaller rocks.
   
7. Sprinkle a small amount of the Earth Blended Turf onto the glue. This will simulate organic debris caught up in the rocks.
   
8. Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours.
   
9. Mix up a small amount of the epoxy and fill the hollow blank up about halfway. Allow this to cure for one hour.
   
10. Using a cheap, disposable brush paint either the Mod Podge or Gloss Gel (henceforth "texture") over the epoxy. The Mod Podge is easier to work with, but will tend to settle more, so use the Mod Podge if you want to simulate slowly moving water, and the Gloss Gel if you want choppier, faster-moving water.
    
    In either case, paint the texture over the entire surface of the epoxy, then go back and using a wide brush (a cheap #4 Filbert is perfect) create waves by making short, quick strokes. You want these brush strokes to go in the direction that the water is flowing, but you want to work your way backwards from the outflow point to the inflow point so that the crests of your "waves" overlap properly. Here's an image showing what I mean.
    
    Swampy Pond
    
    Shopping List:
    
    

• 25mm Hollow Blank bases
  
• Elmer's white glue.
  
• [Green Blended Turf]http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/Item/BT-GB/page/1) (1 bag)
  
• Reaper Olive Green (or any other medium grey paint)
  
• 5 Minute Quick Cure Epoxy
  
• Parsley Flake
  
• Gloss Varnish
  
  Instructions:
  
  

1. Prime the base black.
   
2. Paint the interior hollow of the base with the olive green paint. 3. Using superglue, glue the Space Marine into position on the base.
   
3. Using a cheap brush, paint roughly 40% of the bottom of the base with the white glue. Leave roughly 60% of the bottom clear.
   
4. Sprinkle a very small amount of the Parsley Flake onto the glue.
   
5. Sprinkle a small amount of the Green Blended Turf onto the glue.
   
6. Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours.
   
7. Mix up a small amount of the epoxy and fill the hollow blank up about halfway. Using the end of a brush, add a little texture to the epoxy as it sets. You can "draw" concentric circles radiating out from the Marine's legs to simulate the movement of the troop through the water. When the epoxy begins to form "strings" it's time to move on to the next step.
   
8. Before the epoxy sets completely, sprinkle a very fine amount of the Parsley Flake on the surface of the epoxy. Allow the epoxy to cure for an hour.
   
9. Paint over the Parsley Flakes with the Gloss Varnish so they look properly wet.
   
   OCEAN BEACH
   
   Shopping List
   
   

• 25mm Hollow Blank bases
  
• Elmer's white glue.
  
• Fine Buff Ballast (1 bag)
  
• Reaper Golden Blonde
  
• Reaper Brown Sand
  
• 5 Minute Quick Cure Epoxy
  
• Liquitex Medium Gloss Gel
  
  Instructions:
  
  

1. Prime the base black.
   
2. Using superglue, glue the Marine into position.
   
3. Paint the bottom of the base with white glue.
   
4. Fill the hollow with the fine ballast then pour it out so that all of the glue is covered. Allow this to dry completely.
   
5. Paint streaks of white glue across the bottom of the base. These streaks should run perpendicular to the direction of the tide. Sprinkle more ballast over these streaks. This will create a ripple effect in the sand, like you see along beaches.
   
6. Paint the sand with the Brown Sand paint.
   
7. Drybrush the sand with Golden Blonde. You want to paint the tops of the ripples, but leave more of the Brown Sand showing in the bottoms of the ripples.
   
8. Mix up a small amount of the epoxy and fill the hollow blank up about halfway. Allow this to cure for one hour.
   
9. Using a cheap, disposable brush paint the Gloss Gel over the epoxy. Paint the gloss gel over the entire surface of the epoxy, then go back and using a wide brush create waves by making short, quick strokes just as described under Mountain Creek.

Here's a quick tutorial! Do give me a shout if you need clarification of any parts of it!

To make a cover for your cth480 you'll need to find a glass supplier that can cut you a sheet of 2mm glass sheet to 123x205mm.

The prices, quality and precision of the cutting can vary a lot between suppliers and you may need to search around for one that doesn't have a minimum order size.

If you search google maps for glass suppliers, you should be able to find a fair few local suppliers close to where you live!

.

When you get the glass cut, the edges will be very sharp, so you'll need to smooth over everything to make it safe/comfortable to use.
I've experimented with different ways of doing this, but on a small scale, the most effective method I've found has been to use some fabric backed wet/dry sandpaper in the 300-350grit range stuck with double sided tape to a hard smooth surface such as a granite chopping board, or a hard kitchen work surface.

Ideally you'd want some sort of diamond abrasive, but they're more expensive, and harder to get hold of. Sandpaper will work fine for a one off though, but you may want at least one or two spare sheets, as the hard glass sheet will wear down the sandpaper very quickly!

Also, be sure to have something soft to put the sheet down on when you're working so that you don't inadvertently scratch the surface by putting it down on a piece of grit from the grinding process.


.


When it comes to sanding, first off wet the sand paper, this helps the sand paper cut more smoothly as well as keeping the glass dust down. You want to avoid breathing any of the dust if possible!

Hold the glass sheet at around 45 degrees to the sand paper and, applying light pressure, make circular motions to grind the edge down. Your first aim should be to dull all of the sharp edges of the sheet left over from the cutting! This should only take a few strokes over the paper to do!

Decide which side of the sheet you want to be the top. This side will need to be beveled so that it's comfortable to use! Depending how much beveling you want, you can remove as much or as little of the edge as you want.

You can also round off the edges and corners of the cover. I'd recommend doing so if you can work out how to, but I'm not sure how to describe the process without making a video about it.

Once you're done with the grinding you'll want to clean off the cover the same way you'd clean normal glassware!

.

If you want to have the low friction surface finish, then you'll need to get hold of some silicone spray lubricant, you can spray it on the surface and then buff it on with a glasses cloth or some kitchen towel.

The main advantage of the surface finish is that it gets rid of the 'break in' period for the cover. The clean glass cover can start off a bit sticky and takes a little while to become nice and smooth without the silicone finish. You could alternatively rub some candle wax over the surface as a substitute for the spray though.


.

As for attaching the cover to the tablet, so long as the cover doesn't slide around on the tablet it's fine, you could use glue, double sided tape, or any other method you want to stop it moving around.

You could even use something like this on the corners of the cover if you wanted it to be easily removable!

.

hopefully you'll understand some of what I've said in the wall of text that this has become, but do feel free to ask me about any parts of it if you need some clarification or more info!

Here are the PDFs of the artwork for easy printing on 8.5” x 11”. You should be fine printing at 100% and make sure it's Landscape mode.

RIGHT ARM

LEFT ARM

Supplies you’ll need:

Color printing capabilities for 8.5”x 11” paper (standard Letter size)

Two (2) qty. 20” x 30” foam core boards—I went with this size because they are most readily available at stores like Michaels and Staples or even Amazon

20"x30" Foam Core Boards and here is a 10-pack on Amazon if you wanted to do your entire row (DO IT)

Spray Mount or glue stick

Scissors and a boxcutter

A cutting mat would be helpful but is optional

•Feel free to ask questions. If I can, I’ll try to answer but I hope you find it pretty easy. Only the cutting part takes attention but I found that easiest to hack large parts off in straight cuts and then get progressively smaller with the cuts. Good luck and let’s surprise the ALCS with #LETBRETTBANG signs everywhere! LFG

EDIT: You don't need to use foam core. You can probably use a large cardboard box or poster board. That might even be easier to cut. I just recommend the foam core because for its lightweight not much matches its rigidity.

I have a similar type of glass bed (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QJ9WKRW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on my CE3Pro and this brand of glass has poor adhesion - period. I call it 'black ice'. The other mods on the list are also similar to mine, with the exception that I've added an upgraded vent ring for the cooling fan (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3343456). For quite a while I used blue painters tape and it seemd to work in the beginning, but I had some issues with warpage/shrinkage, air bubbles, tears, seam lines and typical tape things.

Lately I switched to brushing on Elmers liquid disappearing purple school glue, which is a PVA based glue (https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-Liquid-5-Ounces/dp/B01NCQAFGD/ref=sr_1_1?crid=287FNHW09Q8D1&keywords=elmers+disappearing+purple+liquid+school+glue&qid=1572698053&sprefix=elmers+liquid+purple%2Caps%2C399&sr=8-1). 5 oz of it costs less then $3 at Walmart. There is an Amazon branded version of the glue also, but I haven't tested it. It works much better then the tape as I have absolutely no issues with it at all. I'm getting those 'near two thousand dollar printer quality prints' now that I read about all the time that the CE3 is capable of. I put on just enough to cover the area that I'm printing on and a little goes a long way. It's generally good for about 2 or 3 prints. It's washable, so it's easy to clean and reapply when needed. Some people use the glue stick version, but there are complaints about that somewhat 'globbing' on and being less evenly distributed on the bed.

I basically consider the glass to be a good starting point for getting a good basic level bed surface as compared to trusting that the build plate is true. One of these days I plan to try out a PEI sheet (on top of the glass). Many claim it's the absolute best, but for my budget at this time, it's too deep for my pockets at $15 a sheet.

I (the OP) always just use Elmer’s White Glue-All and it works perfectly. It sticks well to both the foam edges and the paper tops of the foam board, it’s super easy to wipe off if you use too much, and if you get it on yourself you can just rub it right off with friction. It’s cheap, effective, and you can find it virtually anywhere.

Also, make sure you use good foam board (again, I prefer Elmer’s 5mm) and you shouldn’t have much issue with warping.

>I can imagine you doing that XD (having a sticky note on my hammer)

I always laugh at myself when I do, but it works! : )

>I don't keep sticky notes at home.

We were talking about adhesives. This is a fun one. It makes any paper into a sticky note. : )

>I'll figure out the sandwich thing. It's in my enormous list of food bookmarks XD

Perfect!!

To answer some questions:

Yes, they are from Sir Willibald as /u/backstop13 said. The files can all be downloaded free from here, although I had to go here for the Pilot Cards as the file on the main download page was corrupt.


I opened the .pdfs in Photoshop and saved out only the pages I needed as .jpgs to make printing easier. I printed through Staples on 110lb cardstock. I think total for all the sheets I printed was less than $9.


For adhesive I used Scotch Quick-Dry Adhesive, which is like tacky glue. Sir Willibald has some great tips on his site for construction, and he recommends double-sided tape.


So far my favorite are the gear boxes - everything fits in there so nicely!

Yeah but they’re extremely nice. We use them at work so easy to love them when they’re free! Also you could buy a plain white board and use this. Just takes a steady hand and some patience. https://www.amazon.com/Graphic-Whiteboard-Self-Adhesive-Artist-Scissor/dp/B07H6Q9SC3

um theres this van gogh notebook for $1.99, but its got free prime shipping http://amzn.eu/aDupw9S https://www.amazon.com/dp/0486498549/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=d45777d6-4c64-4117-8332-1659db52e64f&pd_rd_wg=12cy7&pf_rd_r=Q048N88G81V27FD65S6C&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=0486498549&pd_rd_w=HO0V0&pf_rd_i=under+%241&pd_rd_r=c1db309c-e072-4c45-8aab-83de4265d871&ie=UTF8&qid=1536317308&sr=1
oh look, monet water lilies notebook is $1.38 https://www.amazon.com/dp/0486413608/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=d45777d6-4c64-4117-8332-1659db52e64f&pd_rd_wg=12cy7&pf_rd_r=Q048N88G81V27FD65S6C&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=0486413608&pd_rd_w=HO0V0&pf_rd_i=under+%241&pd_rd_r=c1db309c-e072-4c45-8aab-83de4265d871&ie=UTF8&qid=1536317308&sr=2


or you could get 3 things of elmers glue for your crafts https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Liquid-School-Washable-Ounces/dp/B010DS107K/ref=sr_1_21_a_it?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1536317308&sr=8-21&fpw=pantry&keywords=under+%241&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

photo prints for $0.09 each https://www.amazon.com/dp/0486413608/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=d45777d6-4c64-4117-8332-1659db52e64f&pd_rd_wg=12cy7&pf_rd_r=Q048N88G81V27FD65S6C&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=0486413608&pd_rd_w=HO0V0&pf_rd_i=under+%241&pd_rd_r=c1db309c-e072-4c45-8aab-83de4265d871&ie=UTF8&qid=1536317308&sr=2

theres also a bunch of prime pantry items. like white cheddar and shell pasta, fried rice, and candy for #1 or less.

yeah, all of those have free shipping, otherwise I might have found cooler stuff :)

One thought for an upgrade to replace packing tape. Velcro kinda sucks but 3m makes a great alternative. It holds my throttle down nicely.

3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener TB4575 Low Profile Black, 1 in x 10 ft (1 Mated Strip/Bag) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007OXK330/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Eti3DbY4RCZKP


It doesn't hold too well with vertical pressure, so might pop off easier than Velcro. But the horizontal strength is rock solid.

Might be a good way to snap your HOTAS in place.

Thanks, man.

I usually use 600 grit followed by 1200 grit sandpaper to lightly shape the tip of my ken. I do this every time before I reapply the super glue. This helps remove any old glue and reduce any uneven surface.

I normally use Scotch Super Glue Liquid in Precision Applicator (http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Liquid-Precision-Applicator-AD124/dp/B004O49F7M) as my glue of choice. And apply about 3 layers. The precision tip really helps you control the amount and you can use it to slow spread the glue over the tip of your ken.

I recommend practicing on a chopstick or something with a wooden tip first to get a feel for it.

Codename Duchess What what a great contest! That's some great gifting and very generous! Here's my add ons based on the prices they are today:

1. 2.40
   
2. 2.59
   
3. 4.99
   
4. 4.95
   
5. 5.30
   
6. 5.24
   
   =25.47
   
   Thanks for the contest!
   

I have 3 I use for different applications. First being mentioned here a few times, because best.

Tacky glue. I use the gold bottle it's great, sicks nearly instantly, stays tacky for a few minutes in case of adjustments or removal. I use it for structural building. Most used glue. Applied with a toothpick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NHGYZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KCkVCb7WCDCNA

Gorilla glue gell. I use this super glue for small details. Places where I don't really have a tab. I use this glue to make the paper solid and stronger. Great glue, the gell makes a difference. I only buy gell now. Applied with a piece of wire. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQTG9E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KEkVCbTVSCR3Y

Classic Elmer's glue. I use this for parts that dont matter. If I need to layer some pieces. I dont use this often but its nice to have when I dont wanna waste my nicer stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012XO26AW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LFkVCbP7T0FX0

I'm no sound expert or anything, but the expanding foam is much less dense than whats in the solid core doors, so I'd imagine less effective.

Upon further research, it seems like expanding foam isnt well regarded as a noise dampening solution in general. There is a product called Green Glue (which I could only find in 12 packs for $200...), that some people seem to revere as a gift from the soundproofing gods. Price aside, I'm not really sure how you would apply it inside a door, since it looks pretty thick (would be hard to distribute evenly).

Personally, I'd go with the simple option of a new door. But, you have some options now, and its up to you.

I'd recommend glass, some binder clips to hold it to the bed, Elmer's purple glue sticks for adhesion, a heat gun if you live somewhere like the South and it takes forfuckingever for things like glue stick to dry (I don't have this exact one but I'm sure it'll work just fine), and a spray bottle of water and squeegee to clean all of that off every few of prints.

Also as everyone else suggested, a Pi 3 for Octopi. I'm using a 32 GB microSD that I had laying around. Just send prints from Cura to Octopi! A camera is pretty cool for time lapse shots too! I'm pretty sure this is the one I've been using, but I really don't like the one mount I've found for it so I'm going to switch to my Logitech C615 after my daughter goes to bed and I can fuck around with my setup... ;P

not sure where you are but if you do a basic google you can probably find someone that will make a custom sticker like that or a type of vinyl

also https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elmers-231-Wrinkle-Rubber-Transparent/dp/B000EFQ2I0 is great, its like a non stick glue where you can peel the photos off without ripping the paper once its dry

I use "The Original Super Glue" brand, here's an inexpensive bulk-pack of the Gel stuff Super Glue 15185 Gel, 12-Pack, .07oz tubes. You go through a LOT of it this way. On my Super Bertha I went through something like 6 or 7 tubes for the papering.

I certainly don't mind.

Uhu is a brand. Here's a link from UK Amazon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/UHU-38106-All-Purpose-Adhesive/dp/B0031RG2GA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1321185144&sr=8-2

For photos, the number one thing is natural light. Pointing a spotlight will wash out the colour as you see here. Put the model by the window and see if that helps.

If that's not possible, you need to diffuse the light. There are many ways to do this but the most crude is pointing your spotlight at a piece of paper near the model rather than at the model itself.

Hope that helps, would love to see the results.

For gluesticks, use Elmer's washable Purple school gluesticks. I've found that 2 coats of it seems to work best. It's usually good for several uses, no need to clean and reapply after every print. When it starts showing a bit of wear, or has sat and collected dirt/dust, just wipe it off with a wet rag. The rag will also turn it purple again so you can easily tell when it's all gone.

So I watched this terrible little video, and it got me thinking, and sent me down a rabbit hole - is this even feasible? It would realistically cost me about $25 CAD to attempt it, but I'm worried/don't know the properties of LOCA all that well - if I botch it, is it relatively easy to remove the glue?

Theres also some debate about the quality of some LOCA glues - the one on amazon I was looking at is this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00OZKNVUM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A223WORISLZJI5&psc=1

Anyone have any experince with this stuff?

These glue sticks would be awesome. My kids go through glue sticks like crazy, especially doing crafts for the holidays, lol.

pay attention in class!

Easiest and most cost-effective way is to use this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Case-Green-Glue-Noiseproofing-Compound/dp/B000SKWD8Y

If your attic doesn't have existing drywall, you'll need to hang two sheets of drywall with GreenGlue applied (as per instructions) between. Do the same with the floor and whatever door is up there. Don't forget to seal.

If you've already got drywall you'll need to strip the walls to the drywall, clean it, apply the glue, and hang another sheet (then of course refinish the walls and seal).

I would advise against the whole process though. It's going to be absurdly hot/cold in an attic. There will be sound bleed. It'll be cramped. I just don't think you're going to be happy with the results after going through the cost and effort to professionally soundproof your space.

Oh gosh, my little boy is starting Kindergarten, then my fiancé and I both attend college which is starting back up.

Any of these things would be great! erasers, dry erase markers, or glue sticks

My guesses for your questions. Orange is the new black for the show,maybe Hunger Games for the movie. Animal Crossing for the game, and The Road for the book.

This contest is great. Bill Hader

I personally don't like things such as joker reveals or blurred cards, because to me it seems that the spectator would be able to tell that the card is just printed specifically, and while it may give an immediate wow factor won't really leave a sense of magic.

That said, I disagree with the idea that gaff cards aren't useful - using a double facer or double backer or something like Vogt's regeneration gimmick or Houchin's distortion gimmick can create wonders.

So I recommend you buy Blake Vogt's Split Sessions v1 and 2 which will set you back $9 and a tub of rubber cement which will be another $9 and make gaffs to fit your specific needs.

(though of course you may disagree with me completely, and buy the Blue Bike gaff deck - whatever fits your own style is best!)

That's excellent! And I would not get any officially branded model glue unless you are doing Games Workshop models for which they make a specific plastic glue that kinda "welds" the plastic.

I just buy whatever cyanoacrylate (super glue usually has this) is available. This is actually a good deal on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Super-Glue-15187-12-Pack/dp/B000LGPD64/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1536324938&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=super%2Bglue&th=1

If you find you want it thicker they have a gel too:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YEN37K/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B004YEN37K&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=a54d13fc-b8a1-4ce8-b285-d77489a09cf6&pf_rd_r=N1NX6E1ED9RCD79SX46V&pd_rd_wg=FwfEZ&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=GYhUR&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=54959996-b29d-11e8-8e51-357518f34f72

Can't imagine any branded glue would be worth it otherwise. It's all just the same chemical formula except the GW stuff (which has the sad side effect of not working on anything else at all).

It's an interesting German paint that I read about called UHU. Amazon carries it, but sadly the single tubes take forever to ship, and the 5 pack is WAY overkill. So I have enough to last me forever now. Here's the link: Uhu 38106 All Purpose Adhesive - 125ml Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031RG2GA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_poz9BbPERGCKR

It was surprisingly easy, it dries very fast. I mixed it with Citadel Blood for the Blood God, then went over the finished effect again with a gloss varnish (Vallejo) after sealing it all with Dullcoat.

I use Elmer's washable no-run school glue over black painter's tape for nylon. For PLA... I used to use the same tape (no glue), but I found that applying the tape to the bed and then removing the tape leaves a nice uniform glue reside that works really well.

LIST POST:

 |/u/Dent7777|Shady Angel Investor|Total|Strictly Necessary Costs

--|:--|:--|:--|:--
 |318.366|212.244|530.61|385.44
 |Item|Price|Link|
possible to replace or modify|32G Wheeled Trash Can|20|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
fabric bags also work|Air-Pruning Pot|13.98|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BFISHS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Mylar Blankets|6.69|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLCYR5S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Velcro tape|16.49|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OXK330/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Plant Ties|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Happy Frog Soil|11.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01508YKY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |FoxFarm Trio|33.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D93NIFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Fem Blue Dream Seed|23.68|https://www.seedsupreme.com/blue-dream-feminized-seeds-20604.html|
 |2 Free Fem Seeds|0| | 
 |pH control & testing kit|18.5|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
not strictly necessary (NSN)|Submersible pump|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EWENKXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|2Liter bladder|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RWCXWZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Clear Tubing|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W6W10TK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|tubing switch|7.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L45TLPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Funnel|10.96|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OKXZL8O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Humidity & Temp Sensor|12.82|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Rechargeable AAs|13.8|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSN76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Inline Fan|17.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQBFOTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Carbon filter|33.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CJ5D4AG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Ducting hose|10.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076S6KHB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |ArcMyn Vent|14.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793HH4GD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Axial Fan|11.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OWRMZ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Fan Speed controller|17.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6VV6GL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |HGL 100w|149|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C59J8L2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Smart Power Strip|32.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1ZSCYV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
may keep for lights, might get rid of it.|Light Timer|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|

I used this battle mat

Amazon Link

Some rubber cement

Amazon Link

Also some kind of sanded particle board from Lowes/Home Depot. I can't remember what it was called, but 1/8" thick. At the time I was in college and had access to the school's laser table and was able to cut using that. I couldn't see why a table saw wouldn't work though.

I made all the tiles powers of two (Computer engineer, can't help it). If I remember it was like 1x1, 1x2, 1x4, 2x2, 2x4, 2x8, 4x4, 4x8, and 8x8 tiles. You can do any other sizes or increments, that's just what I am most comfortable with.

Ah, right.

Try searching "clear glue" on Amazon, I found some of the stuff linked at the bottom of that blog post: Elmers Liquid School Glue, Clear, Washable.

Yeah, I was going to go with putty and cardstock, but I'm just trying to think if there was some other kind of paper that would be easier to stick on. I actually just found this restickable glue stick that apparently has an adhesive similar to Post-it notes, so I may look into that! Have to see how long the adhesive lasts tho

Never used it, but in my experience, suction cups don't seem to work very well on wood, even polished wood. On top of that, a lot of people are saying this stuff gets dirty pretty easily. I would just use 3m Dual Lock instead. I used velcro before, but it gets worn out, and my pedals tend to move and wiggle a little bit which I don't like.

> I've heard some people aren't happy with how much exposed cable there is (aerodynamics). Also that there are no top tube mounts.

Both of these are easily remedied with some double sided velcro. I bought the TorHans AeroX bento, threw a couple pieces on the top tube and the box and threw my Di2 junction box in there then heat shrinked the etube wires and brake cables together. It's not perfect but it's wayyyy better than what it originally was.

For sound dampening, I've read that Green Glue is the best.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

It's 0.50 cents.

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Would you recommend something like this too ?

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener/dp/B007OXK330

I'm in Australia and use a blue gluestick, but if you're in the US I've seen a lot of queens using the Elmers purple sticks. I buy the smallest size so that it's not much wider than my brow, so less clean up haha. https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-Washable-0-21-ounce/dp/B00143UIC2

I'm also battling nylon adhesion on a PEI bed. Best lead I've found so far is PLA glue.

Let us know if you get it sticking!

Elmer's Rubber Cement has worked well enough for me. I like the cap's built-in brush. I glue indoors with meh ventilation.

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Rubber-Cement-No-Wrinkle-Ounces/dp/B000EFQ2I0

It's expensive, but this 3M low-profile velcro is awesome and what I've used for everything from cable management on my desks throughout the years to fastening bulky guitar pedals (think around size and weight of a GTX1080) to my pedalboard that went through hell. TL;DR it's good.

I have my E6 attached to my Fuze with 3M Dual Lock. Here's a good article from InnerFidelity with some more information.

So you’re using just normal glue sticks? Like these?

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Purpose-School-Washable-0-24-ounce/dp/B001E69WBW

When I do labels, I have them printed from a PDF at some place that does the color laser printing, onto a good paper stock.

Then I use these - https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Purpose-School-Washable-0-24-ounce/dp/B001E69WBW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486578385&sr=8-5&keywords=school+glue

They come off with a simple soak, and do not change or run the color. I don't use my inkjet as the moisture build up from chilling the bottles will cause the ink to run.

elmers is great, six pack dirt cheap (http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-School-E1560/dp/B00143UIC2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453149823&sr=8-2&keywords=elmers+stick)

MMOBIEL UV LOCA 50 ml unit Liquid Optical Clear Adhesive Glue Adhesive Transparent TP-N1000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZKNVUM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Do you own the condo?

In additoon to upgrading the doors and windows, you could tear down the drywall and make sure the insulation is high quality. Then install new drywall by hanging it on whisper clips which separate the studs from the drywall. Then you apply anti vibration green glue and a second layer of drywall.

so im looking to get into 3d Printing, and unless someone has some better option, im going with the MP Select Mini.

My question is on the other things i need. Here is the list of the things im looking to buy along with the printer:

• Scotch Blue Tape
  
• Elmers Stick Glue
  
• Digitial Caliper
  
• Mirco Cutter
  
• Palette Knifes
  
• Nozzle cleaning kit
  
• 2 rolls of Hatchbox 1.75mm PLA, green and grey
  
  I have a set of exacto knives and a screw bit set. Is there anything else im missing?

Hm. This patch kit costs $3.50, and has six patches. The round ones (4) are 25mm.

Rubber cement is $5, though there's also a gallon for $30. The cost of sandpaper for these purposes is negligible. A tube is maybe $5, and probably has enough rubber to make 29 2.5" square patches. Or ~63.5 mm. So plenty big enough to cut down into 146 square 25 mm patches. I'm measuring this based on a Specialized 700C x 28/38 tube, so you could probably increase that by buying the biggest tube you can find.

I can't really say anything about how the sticking power of these patches compare, but when you think about a tube's place in the tire, it likely wouldn't matter.

EDIT: changed some patch math

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OXK330/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the mobile version of your link

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elmers-Washable-School-Glue-145g/dp/B001G9EBDG

In the U.S. it's commonly found at Walmart in the school supplies aisle, along with the pads of cheap construction paper and watercolor paints, that sort of thing.

This one is good.

This is what everybody is using.

I used rubber cement. I painted the page with it and laid the tissue paper down. I prefer it to glue for journaling - it doesn’t wrinkle.

3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener TB4575, Black, 1 in x 10 ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007OXK330/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_eQx0DbH235AQH

I'm not OP, but it's another layer of soundproofing. You apply it between the layers of drywall.

http://www.amazon.com/Case-Green-Glue-Noiseproofing-Compound/dp/B000SKWD8Y

Rubber Cement + printout = indellible sticker.

Here you go. It's 0.50 cents.

I beg you

There's removable/restickable glue sticks similar to what is on Post-It's.

I present my new invention: rubber glue

I gotchu OP: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_aRivzbWMVYYBV

You will probably need a powered usb hub to connect the drives. Not absolutely necessary but the Pi only has two usb ports (the micro b port is just for power to the Pi) and cannot power notebook drives directly. Plus, the extra ports on a hub will allow you to connect your drives, a mouse, a keyboard, and a Wi-Fi card; all at the same time.

The case I have been using is the [Punnet printable case.] (http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1310)

I did not have any heavy card stock to print it on. So I printed the case on regular paper and glued it to some thin cardboard from a box of crackers. To keep the glue from wrinkling the paper, I used a "school glue" style glue stick. You can find glue sticks almost anywhere that sells office or craft supplies. Then I cut it out with scissors and a razor knife.

Dual Lock is what you want. Hook and loop sucks because you have to keep your strips straight, with this, anything goes (and I literally have my 15 lb (7 kg) speakers hanging from the wall with this stuff).

It's magical.

Thanks.

I have two cars and three 'projects'.

One underhood project:

1. Electronically-switched oil accumulator (accusump). Just ignition-hot.
   
2. Subtle under-hood lighting (no rice - subtle - will be playing around with it. Might decide it looks like shit, and not do it.) Might also install a switchable work light in case something needs to be done at night.
   
3. My own version of a lojack that I haven't gotten around to building. Also, if possible, have it control a secondary fuel pump relay to make the fuel pump die; basically an interlock that makes the car seem broken instead of locked.
   
   Two under-dash projects that are identical, one for each car:
   
   
4. Hard-wired radar detector
   
5. Hard-wired dash cam
   
6. Hard-wired USB outputs - one or two dual-12v-to-USB converters
   
7. Potentially the lojack-equivalent's battery charger (since it would have a separate small battery)
   
   The hard part is figuring out where to get a non-fused 12V supply under the dash. An add-a-fuse circuit is very appealing and I should find places where an extra 5-10A won't pop anything, so I may end up doing one 5-10A-add-a-fuse on an ignition-hot line, instead of a 12v-master-fuse + ignition-hot-relay, as the single master fuse for all these.
   
   Then it would just be a 15A strip terminal instead of a big fat 100A ground bar at the ground side, and a small fuse box at the positive side (with 1A or 2A fuses for each circuit, depending on their needs).
   
   ---
   
   I really appreciate your feedback. The only reason I haven't already built all this is because of worries of fucking up and coming back to a smoldering ash heap.
   
   ---
   
   I'm also figuring out how to mount all this securely under the hood... I figure these little wire clamps for the wires, and something like this velcro alternative to mount things like the fuse box, except it's hard to tell what temperature they're rated for (and it seems that the 3M stuff I linked will fall off due to heat.) Any ideas there? I want something that is 1) secure as fuck, but 2) that I could potentially remove without damage in the future, maybe using a heat gun or something. I would be mounting it mostly to plastic, but I don't want to drill any holes if possible.

Velcro no... Dual lock yes. This shit will hold anything

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007OXK330/ref=pd_aw_sim_229_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51q78Sub96L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C99_&refRID=1QW6DNJM6AH2MEJDBQ2H

I use liquid glue for my PLA prints.

Mixed 1 part glue to 2 parts distilled water to thin it out. Wipe a very thin layer onto my heated bed with a sponge and let the heat dry it. leaves a very thin, even layer of glue. Parts stick like crazy while it's heated and when the bed cools down, the parts just lift right off with no effort. I have never needed to use any kind of tools to get my parts up.

The glue I use. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQAFGD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh, and the glue washes right off with a little soap and water.

I use Elmer's All Purpose School Glue Sticks, Clear, Washable, 4 Pack, 0.24-ounce sticks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E69WBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.UmGAbVBPRXYY

Dirt cheap and since using them I've never had a print break loose.