Ok I have moved about a dozen times in my life. Trust me I'm a pro at this. This will be long so I'm gonna divide into sections.

Furniture

• Don't buy most furniture until after you move. Why pay to move it when you can just have it shipped to your door, probably for free, or if you buy it locally have it delivered?
  
• Don't buy more than the bare necessities at first. It is tempting to make your whole house pretty, but money won't go as far as you think, and its easy to buy things in the beginning that don't work as well as you think or end up being wrong for the space. Better to have what you really need and take time to consider what you actually want to make your life better in that particular space. For me the necessities are:
  
  
  • A mattress
    
  • An inexpensive bed frame that replaces a box spring. You can always buy a headboard/footboard later. This one is great, has room for storage underneath, and it easy to put together/break down/move. We still use it for our guest bed: https://www.amazon.com/Zinus-SmartBase-Foundation-Replacement-Noise-Free/dp/B006MIUM20/ref=sr_1_5?s=furniture&ie=UTF8&qid=1539803465&sr=1-5&keywords=bed%2Bframe&dpID=41hb1VrV1NL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1
    
  • A nightstand
    
  • A dining room table (eating at a table will make you feel like a real adult)
    
  • A couch
    
  • A TV and something to put it on
    
    
• Craigslist, Amazon, Ikea are your friends. Online, read reviews critically. If people are saying it fell apart, don't buy it.
  
  
  • I have to give a particular shout out to Ikea stuff, I have some furniture I bought 10 years ago from them still in my home
    
    
• Shop Homegoods for discounted decorations, housewares, kitchen stuff, etc when you are ready aka after the move.
  
• If you need bedding Target often has cute bedding on sale.
  
  

  Moving itself
  

  
  

• Don't hire a moving company. Hire a U-haul, then through the U-haul website hiring people to load/unload the truck. You can have them load/unload only heavy stuff and take the rest yourself to save cash.
  
  
  • I did this on my last move and they moved all furniture from our 3 br house as well as most of our boxes for like $200. I think we spent less than $500 total on truck and movers (including gas).
    
  • I actually highly recommended this over moving furniture yourself in a borrowed pickup, or even yourself with a U-haul. The cost is well worth the convenience. Moving is hard.
    
    
• Don't pay for boxes. Boxes are easy to find for free. Typically I take 2 or 3 evenings late at night (around 10 pm) and just drive around behind strip malls until I find enough. (They don't put gross stuff in the dumpster, if there is I skip that one). Sometimes it only takes 1 night. Don't bother with grocery stores or large department stores, they crush their boxes. Check out liquor stores and the dumpsters behind strip malls.
  
  
  • Places I have found boxes in plenty:
    
    • Behind a Barnes and Noble
      
    • Behind a party store
      
    • Behind an Ulta
      
    • Behind clothing stores in strip malls (these are usually pretty larger, great for bigger and lighter items)
      
    • Liquor stores (they get so many they are usually happy to tell you what day they get their deliveries if you call. These are smaller boxes great for heavier items like books)
      
      
• Don't box clothes. Take plastic trash bags, cut a hold in the bottom, put clothes hangers through the hole, close the tie part, now your clothes are still hanging up but contained and ready to move. When you get to the new house, hang up in the bag, then just rip the bag off. Way easier than unpacking.
  
• Don't buy bubble wrap, find a place that stocks free local papers (every city usually has these around) and use paper to wrap your dishes and breakables. Save junk mail and store flyers as well for this.
  
• The one thing you should buy is moving plastic wrap, the kind on a 14" roll. Use it to secure blankets around wooden furniture to protect from scratches. Use it wrap any fabric furniture to protect from tears. Use it to group some awkward small boxes into one entity. I only discovered this the last time I moved and will never move without doing this again. This is the only time I have ever moved nothing got damaged, and there is also this very satisfied and "mission accomplished" feeling when your couch is wrapped and ready to go.
  
• Label everything with not only the contents but the room it goes in. Even in a small apartment this helps a ton when you unload. When you go to unpack everything will already be in the correct room. I recommend these inexpensive, color coded labels to make it even faster/more convenient: https://www.amazon.com/Immuson-Removable-Packing-Different-Stickers/dp/B07DQDSX9H/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1539805227&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=moving+stickers&psc=1
  
• Pack a box in each room of the things you will need your first night/week so you can easily find it in the unpacking chaos. So in your bathroom pack your shower stuff separate, in the bedroom your sheets, and in the kitchen keep your pots/pans and dishes clearly marked. This may not seem like a money tip but if you don't do this you will find yourself running to the store for paper plates or toothpaste you don't really need.
  
  

  Once you are in
  

  
  Don't forget you are going to have to buy things you forgot about or that just come up those first few weeks. Somehow you will move in and realize you don't have a mop, or a kitchen trashcan, or about 50 other things that just happened to be your roommates, or where the hell is the dish detergent and oh fuck I forgot that I need toilet paper and I ran out two days ago.
  
  I try to set aside about $100-$200 for these weird incidentals. If you are worried about running low buy stuff at the dollar store, you can get a better version next paycheck. Also if you are low on dishes this a great place to get some that are honestly perfectly fine. Big lots is also good for cheap dishes. Also not a bad idea to plan for the money to eat out a few days during the move when you normally wouldn't. For me its the one time I let myself have fast food.
  
  Once you are moved in, be careful about your grocery bill if previously you were splitting groceries and not just buying your own. Buying for one is very different than buying for two, easier for things to go bad in your fridge.
  
  

  Utilities/Bills
  

  
  There will be deposits and unexpected service fees. When you set up your accounts ask specifically what will be on the first bill other than normal recurring charges. Do not think the bills will somehow be half of what you used before. Use A/C or heat sparingly until you see a couple bills. Replace all your lightbulbs with LEDs. Shop around to make sure you buy the cheaper ones they work just as well and they will save you a fortune on electric.
  
  Buy a programmable thermostat if your unit doesn't already have one. They are easy to install yourself, will save you a lot of money buy avoiding running the heat/air while you aren't home, and are only about $40 on Amazon.
  
  You need internet, you do not need cable. You do not need the fancy internet plan the company wants to sell you. Start with the lowest tier internet plan and buy Hulu or Netflix or maybe both. If you have streaming issues upgrade the internet later. When you set up cable request that you not be on a contract (cancelation fees when you move and don't want it are a bitch).

Or, if you got money to burn and are aiming for ~elegance~, get an embosser. I get all of mine from Wiltshire Graphic Press and have been pleased as punch with them. I have 4 plates and I still want more... I think I have a problem :P

Pricey, yes, but they're really awesome, willing to work with you to make sure you get exactly what you want in whatever size, shape, and/or font you want it, and you will not be disappointed.

My sizing recommendation:

• get the regular (short) version if you plan to emboss:
  
• only the back flap for address labels
  
• top/bottom/side/corner edge of standard sheets of paper (custom stationery, trés chic!)
  
• only stickers/labels exclusively (which is what we did)
  
• get the extra long-reach embosser only if you are planning on embossing address labels onto envelopes directly in the standard upper-left area on the front (for Americans, not sure where other countries put their return addresses)
  
  The regular embosser can sort of reach into normal envelopes to emboss the paper directly, but the result will be crooked or the paper will crinkle from being jammed into the embosser's throat no matter how careful you are.
  
  Other thoughts:
  
  
• If using stickers/labels, make VERY SURE that your embosser plate will fit on whatever sticker/label you buy!!!
  
• You will not be able to emboss cardstock
  
• Don't use too much or too little force. It'll take you a few tries to get the optimal pressure for an uniformly-embossed impression.
  
  Our rave for WGP: I originally bought a desktop embosser from WGP with just our last name and address on it since hubby's mom has had an embosser for years and I really like it. I didn't mind using his last name early since it'd be my last name eventually and I didn't really want to spend $35 to get a "Mr. and Ms." just to use it for the duration of our engagement only to chuck it out and spend another $35 for a "Mr. and Mrs." version. Ain't nobody got money for that. The WGP embosser still performs beautifully even after what's got to be thousands of impressions, still crisp and clear and very easily readable.
  
  Later during the wedding planning phase, I/we had a brilliant idea. Hubby and I are a bunch of nerds and wanted an insignia monogram, but the normal traditional letter-only monograms are so boring and same-y. We paid for artwork featuring a calligraphic monogram incorporating elements from both of us and plastered it everywhere in the wedding:
  
  
• the wedsite
  
• silver address labels for envelopes
  
• round silver stickers for the back of envelopes (STDs, invites, thank-you cards) (these but in silver)
  
• treat bag labels (we bought a circle die-punch like for scrapbooks, cut out cardstock, monogram-embossed round silver sticker on the back and guest's name on the front)
  
• cupcake toppers (same as above, but with a extra-long toothpick stuck in the cardstock halves)
  
• our venue offered light discs to shine on the dance floor - $300 savings there since we already had the artwork done
  
  You name it, if it could fit a 2" round silver sticker, I put a sticker on it. I blame my 8 year old Lisa Frank inner self. :> And you know what? It was worth it, because every single person who came to the wedding (and even some of the vendors!) complimented us on how elegant and personalized the whole thing was.

Here's the blog post text:

Our wooden donation crate

Have you ever decided to donate an unwanted item only to forget about it entirely until you found it again months later sill taking up space in a corner somewhere in your house? Have you ever started to fill up a cardboard box with stuff to donate, only to find yourself taking things in and out of the box a few weeks later, unsure of which items you finally decided to keep, donate or throw away? Has your partner or roommate ever accidentally given away an object of yours, stating that they thought you had recently made passing comment about wanting to get rid of it?

If so, I have a simple solution: create your own permanent wooden donation crate.

There’s a bright orange wooden crate which has lived in a dedicated space at the bottom of one of our closets for the last two years. This is our donation box. We call it the “orange crate”. It has a sole one purpose: everything that goes in it is donated. No exceptions. My partner and I are never unsure about the fate of items which end up in the orange crate: items that are placed in it will eventually be donated (usually at the local thrift store).

Why use a wooden crate?
I selected a wooden crate as the box because those are relatively cheap, they have sturdy handles, they’re able to hold heavy items, liquids won’t damage them (contrary to cardboard boxes), they hold no smells, items at the bottom of the box can be seen through the wooden slits, and theses cases can last for multiple generations since you can easily repair them.

Why paint it orange?
I spray painted the wooden crate a bright orange so that there will never be any ambiguity with other crates or boxes in our house; it is clear that this crate is not a storage container which can be used for moving or storing various items. I never have to worry about whether or not my partner forgot about what will happen to stuff that is placed in the only bright orange wooden crate that we own.



How did you make it?

Step 1: Choose a crate
First, select your crate size and type. We went with a basic pine crate that measures 18” x 12.5” X 9.5” but there are crates made of different woods and of different sizes. Find what works best for you.

Step 2: Sanding
Then, you’ll want to sand it to get rid of rough surfaces and get the handles nice and smooth for splinter free transportation.

Step 3: Painting
When you’re ready to paint, get some cardboard boxes or plastic sheets to cover the floor and one or two sides of where you decide to work and get spraying. Follow the distance and spray patters as directed on the can. Ideally you should paint outside or in a well-ventilated space. I ended up needing two cans of oil aerosol paint to get a nice even coat on every surface of the crate, inside and out. Let the crate dry for approximately 72 hours to make sure the paint doesn’t transfer onto other surfaces or objects. I decided not to prime or seal the crate because I wanted to keep costs down on this project. I wouldn’t add any of those steps if I had to make another one; it has held up perfectly so far.

Step 4. Furniture glides
Once everything is dry, stick some plastic furniture glides beneath each corner of the crate so that it can easily be moved around on the floor or in your car trunk, and to help protect it from rough surfaces (such as pavement).

A few extra features

So, our orange crate functions according to a basic rule which never changes: items placed in it are to be donated. However, over time, a few extra features have been added.

First, there’s a binder clip which holds rebate cards for our local thrift store. It always stays clipped to one of the walls of the crate. Whenever we go there to empty out the crate, a staff member punches one or several holes in the card. Once the card is full, it can be applied to purchases during a future visit to their store. What we do is fill up those cards each time we go to empty our orange crate and then we donate the cards to a local non-profit which provides free furniture and clothing to those in need. Staff or volunteers at the non-profit can then use them themselves to purchase items for clients or pass the cards on to their clients. It’s best to keep the rebate cards with the box so that the cards can be punched when we go to the thrift store, aren’t lost, forgotten at home before leaving with the crate or accidentally placed in my partner’s wallet, etc.

Second, I also keep a stack of orange stickers with the binder clip so that we can identify larger items for donation that don’t fit in the crate. The larger items are usually kept near the crate so that they’re brought along when one of us makes a trip to the thrift store. I’m using some old post-it stickers for now but I’ll eventually get some large orange stickers that don’t need additional tape to hold well.

Finally, I have a monthly recurring task on my to-do app to drop off the orange crate at the nearby thrift store. This helps ensure that the box doesn’t overflow and that items which might happen to be near the filled-up crate aren’t accidentally picked up and donated when we take the crate to go empty it at the thrift store.

Note: This post was crossposted to r/konmari

Waaait! This could be easily a great idea but please don't spend £250 on them!!!

My suggestion would be to :-

Make A4 or A5 magnets on your own printer using printable magnetic paper - [Amazon.co.uk - Kodak Magnetic Paper] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kodak-Magnetic-210x297-650gsm-320microns/dp/B005CHHDUG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1376072865&sr=8-3&keywords=A4+magnetic+paper)
I've used it loads of times, it's perfect for fridge magnets. It's thin & you can cut it with scissiors.

Contact a variety of takeaways. It's a great selling point if they're the only pizza /indian/chinese/breakfast place on the magnet.

Try to cover every style of takeaway and try to get restaurants that serve good food & have good reviews.

Instead of 5 restaurants get 20 in a reasonably small 5 mile radius and maybe charge £50 - £75 per advert instead.

All you need from each one, is food style, name, phone number, opening hours, delivery or collection & website. (Lots of takeaways are on Just Eat now any way so no need for a menu)

You can easily type this up on your computer or outsource it on fiverr.com

I highly doubt that takeaways will willingly advertise for other businesses as well, why would they give them to existing customers. They already know the phone number - they need new customers.

I think you'd have to deliver the magnets - either to Uni Halls or hand delivered within the delivery radius of the takeaways.

You could call it something memorable like "What's For Dinner?" and then name them with a specific area and a season. e.g What's For Dinner - Smithfield Edition - Summer 2013.

Then you could renew them every quarter (re-advertising) and expand to new areas too!

For A5 x 100 magnets that would be about £50 for the magnetic paper + printer ink + petrol during delivery + phone call costs + small amount if you wanted to outsource the design. Easily all done under £100.

Good luck!

A few of my go-tos:

• This or a similar cutting tool - The one I have is made by Skil, but I couldn't find it online for an affordable price (I paid like $24). It cuts through cardboard, fabric and all sorts of other stuff in a snap, making box resizing much easier.
  
• Melamine Sponges
  
• C-22 Lace Wig Adhesive Remover - this stuff works better than Goo Gone and won't damage delicate plastics or resin the way Goo Gone will. Also, it smells like oranges and is perfectly safe on your skin - people literally rub it on their scalps!
  
• Electrical Wire Ties - Super handy for making cords on your electronic items look neat and "newer". I have them in both black and white.
  
• Clear Round Stickers - I use these CONSTANTLY as opposed to tape for sealing up boxes where the item needs to look as new as possible - perfect for board games and really any retail packaging - never use regular clear tape!!

> Currently the main coax line goes through the basement direct to the 1st floor wall outlet, then coax to the modem.
I’ve made a drawing of how I understand the internet could go to the splitter, then run again to the 1st floor outlet, then to the modem.

Ideally, you'd have zero interruptions between the coax coming from the street, all the way to the plug on the modem. Since it sounds like the coax enters the walls to the first floor from the basement, just be sure you eliminate any coax splitters by using a barrel adapter
UNLESS you also want a coax drop for Cable TV elsewhere in the house.

Then it's just a matter of making sure you've simplified the circuit to the street using the fewest number of splitters as you can. Each two-way split introduces approximately 3.5dB of loss (a little more than 50%) of power lost. Splitters are also known to be super poorly made and absolutely go bad after a few years of use. You may consider replacing any that you're using. These are decent ones.


> I'm feeling bold

Two of those ethernet strips there in the basement look like basic patch panels. They're just for organizing the cables and don't do any switching, per se. I'd figure out what connections you actually need in the house, beyond maybe a ethernet connection to the modem, the TV and your desktop PC and then go through and eliminate everything else. If you want to double check where the lines are terminated to through the massive web of cables, you can pick up an Ethernet Probe and Test kit to make tracking everything down easier. I'd (ideally) only buy one that has a dedicated ethernet jack and is made by Extech, Fluke, or Klein. As a bonus, It's a handy tool for tracing out ANY sort of wiring, too.

Once you eliminate all the unnecessary stuff, you can start making it look nice. Use some velcro wire ties and bundle everything until it looks respectable. You MAY find that you have odd-length cables used as patch cables between the switch and the patch panel. Don't cut anything, and maybe lay out anything you eliminate by length so you can reuse them if your now-neat-looking bundle could benefit from different-length cables. Don't forget to label everything for clarity using your own philosophy.


> I’m not sure how to use this stuff, if it’s past it’s prime, or if I should even bother. But, If it could be useful I’d like to use it. I just don’t understand it despite reading the sticky’s, etc.

You'll feel a lot more comfortable once you understand what everything is and where it all goes.

All that cable is probably Cat5 or Cat5e at best. If you want to be ready for gigabit speeds in the coming years, you might consider running some new Cat6a or better. I don't know anything about the big switch in the photos, but it's probably doing the job fine for now - If you want faster than 100mbit/s network speeds though, you'll need to upgrade it along with the ethernet. As with the ethernet, it's not a priority, just a nice-to-have.

The big coax amplifier you've got there was probably built in 1974 (note: pre-internet) and is all kinds of lossy/noisy mess. I'd go ahead and get rid of that and anything coax-related that you don't think you'll end up using. There's better stuff available on the market now for stupidly cheap, if you decide that you still need an amplified coax signal.

I'd love to see more pictures once you get it all put together and looking nice. If you need any further hardware advice, let us know!

A few quick tips:

Shipping Labels: I use shipping labels from Amazon. This saves on tape, time, and looks more professional. They fit in most (if not all) printers and work great!

Endicia: I would look into Endicia as an alternative to Stamps.com. They are likely comparable, but Endicia may save you a bit more and you get a free 30 day trial.

Free boxes: Go to the loading dock of a professional office building, they often have boxes that are about to be thrown away. I know my parent's office always has a few just lying there.

Those are some small little tips, but I hope one might help! Good luck!

This is so effing cool, I can't wait to do this for our biz. Our logo is a red heart book, and I found these to use: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RU8QVSU/ref=pd_luc_rh_mrairec_03_02_t_img_lh?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Super excited, thank you thank you thank you for posting this. I love this idea. I've enjoyed and been inspired and learned so much from minimaterials posts.

never done anything like this myself, but i have some ideas to get around the hologram. works best if it's just 1 small hologram.

whether it's a hanging placard or a window sticker it's the same general idea. buy some holographic stickers and use an exacto knife or whatever you can to cut out a shape vaguely resembling the logo needed. the general shape is the important part, not the fine details.

now make it look like it's a piece of shit. peel back the hologram section of a window sticker and muck up your window where it would've been so it looks like the adhesive is crap, and obscures the hologram portion of the sticker.

if it's a placard they'll almost always have a thin plastic film over it that has the hologram. use a screen protector to imitate this. now do the same thing as the window sticker, and peel back the portion of the film that would be on the hologram, and be sure to get just enough dust and grime in the adhesive so it's murky.

be sure to borrow a friends so you can measure the sizes and proportions as closely as possible.

best of luck!

Ok, this is what got me through engineering undergrad:

• A zipper binder. Carry all your notebooks and writing utensils and a calculator.
  
  
• Similar to your notebook choice: Wirebound + 3-hole notebook so it goes in your zipper binder. One for each note-taking class.
  
  
• Binder 3-hole punch, if when you get handouts in class that you want to put in your notebooks chronologically, but hasn't been punched.
  
  
• Hole protectors. You'll need them. Trust me.
  
  
• 0.3mm lead is a lot easier to come by than 0.2mm. Get a good 0.3mm drafting pencil instead. Get a good eraser too - don't get used to using the shitting pencil-tip erasers. A bonus to using non-standard lead pencils - people are much less likely to bum lead off you.
  
  
• Scientific calculator. You really don't need a graphing calculator, in my experience. Anything beyond a Scientific calculator you can do it on Mathematica or MatLab or Maple or whatever your school provides on their computer labs. Look through this list and choose one, because you'll eventually use that on your FE/PE exams, and it's better to walk into those exams with 4 years of experience on your calculator already.
  
  
• Eventually you'll be printing out your résumé, and shitty computer paper isn't going to do it. Don't shell out for stupid "résumé paper", I have a whole rant about that and the paper industry's creation of fictitious product demands, but that's another story. Make your résumé professional, concise, and elegant (good résumé-writing is worth another lengthy discussion), and then print it out on some cardstock - a bit firmer, a bit more professional than crappy computer paper.
  
  All of this will probably fit in your cool zipper binder.
  
  This was kinda fun, actually.

You want minis for PCs or monsters or both?

For PCs if you have money to invest, go to Heroforge. (Avoid the Ultra-Detail plastic, even though it is VERY detailed, it is also VERY fragile and will most assuredly snap at the ankles sooner than later.)

For monsters, I bought these round label stickers, it comes with a free trial on their website where they have a design generator that will perfectly print your tokens lined up with the stickers on the sheet.

Then I bought these 1" plastic chips and some 1" plastic coin holder pages for binders, and now I have several hundred creature tokens that fit in a 2" binder.

Haha, it's almost not too far off. I was just thinking the other day about how weird a nail painting arsenal must seem to someone who isn't into it. In my nail art basket, I have:

• A makeup sponge (gradients, galaxy nails)
  
  
• Tiny magnets (for magnetic polishes)
  
  
• Tape - regular tape and tiny striping tape
  
  
• Binder reinforcement stickers (for half moon manis)
  
  
• Spray hand sanitizer (water spotted nails)
  
  
• Toothpicks
  
  To us it's normal, but to my boyfriend it was "Why do you need spray hand sanitizer to paint your nails?" xD

Honestly, I'd just try and make your own. The basic version of the Silhouette software is free to download, and there are tutorials on Youtube for how to make your own checkboxes.

Buy some sticker paper from Amazon and then you can print them yourself. You can shop around and read some reviews, but here is a pack of 100 glossy sheets for $10.

It'll be somewhat of an investment up front, but that works out to only 10 cents per sheet. Even if you go to FedEx like I do and pay 65 cents per page for printing, that's still only 75 cents for a full 8.5 by 11 sheet. Most Etsy sheets I've seen are like half that size and 5 times as expensive.

I bought a 100 pack of sticker paper that are the size of regular paper sheets off amazon for $12. I printed on them 5 star reviews help deliver food to your family and ours with IC logo and a picture of 5 stars. It looks nice. I fit 6 on a sheet and slap one on the outside of the bag with the delicate items in it.
I called IC and asked if it was ok to do and the lady said I don't see why not.
2 weeks later all of a sudden the in store oppers at wegman's have new stickers and they have to put them om 1 bag per order that are very simliar to mine.

I definitely noticed a little difference and get more ratings. 600 stickers for $12, well worth it.

People sell preprinted stickers on etsy too, but my way was cheaper and my stickers are bigger and more noticeable.

In case anyone wants the sticker paper....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WVYGWMD?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Okay, sorry for the delay. Here is the simple way to do it. Please read the instructions first, there are some things that need to be downloaded first.

Instructions

Paper

I recently printed 240 munzees for myself. I used three pages of the paper ($1.50), printed at OfficeMax ($.45), then cut. So for about $2.00, I got 240 munzees, laser printed on weatherproof sheets for less than a penny each.

Notes: When you are ready to print, save your designs as a PDF. Look at it before printing, making sure you dont waste anything. I usually print mine around .75" which give me 80 per page.

If you have more questions, PM me.

product labels? https://www.amazon.com/Avery-Address-Labels-Inches-18160/dp/B001SN8ITI

Shipping labes? Free half label sheets you can get with a free UPS account. Or you can buy them cheaply on Amazon/eBay in bulk.

If you wanted to spend just a little cash to take the quality up a couple notches...

• Amazon sells bulk tiddlywinks for cheap. $6.50 for 100!
  
• Here are some 1" circular labels, 63 per sheet.
  
• Download TokenTool and push a bunch of images into circle shapes. I used sprites from Battle for Wesnoth and got a great library of tokens for most human roles and a few of the most common monsters.
  
  Put the circle graphics on a printer template, get the alignment set up, print out labels, and BAM, you've got 1" round battlemat tokens for all sorts of monsters & NPCs.

I laser print labels, and I really like these shipping labels. Similar to yours, but pre-cut in half.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PXX7AG

Also, you can get free shipping labels from UPS.

I use half inch round stickers from Amazon. It was $6 from Amazon for a thousand stickers haha.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0731NYS7G?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2


http://imgur.com/a/J7ZhD4O

Put some Tape Dots and some box cutters on your order, haha.

It has been a while since I read the return policy, but last time I checked stuff had to be "unused, resellable condition" to process a return.

It's your call as to whether having a look-see from your living room is fair use. Sending items back "just because" incurs a small surcharge so you don't ding the seller's account. It's cheaper than the fuel you'd use to drive to Cabelas.

I don't know about a kiosk but you can order blank vinyl sticker paper for use with laser printers on-line. They are pretty durable but if you have access to a laminator you can run the sheet through that after printing.

https://www.amazon.com/Label-Outfitters-Weatherproof-Waterproof-Permanent/dp/B004QNWABE

For the j-cards I made and printed my own on cardstock using this template. This was fairly simple technically, though I did have to make some design decisions as well as figure out how to get my printer to accept cardstock.

For the labels I bought these and used the template found on the Label Outfitters website. I did ultimately find that to print them correctly you should put them in the tray face down with the thicker side of each label facing forward

I used this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QNWABE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-J0YzbA8AR9YW to print the image on and these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHRC3GM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9K0YzbVCC06G2 to cover the print to protect it better. That specific printable sticker paper only works with laser printers.

I printed this https://puu.sh/xJYaW/2a6d185e85.png on 8.168x10.572 inches because that is how large my printer could print. ignore the things on the side, that was just me trying to not waste these paper by making stickers out of them.

Blank casettes

Pretty sure I used to see these as a kid in the 2000's from my family. Also, they're prime.

because we're dealing with dinosaur technology, I only use amazon. Buncha shady looking websites out there, but to be hones they're probably just old.

And, here's the cassette labels

Started using these, I like them and they work just fine with my Epson printer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015PXX7AG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you’re ok with 1” rounds, how about 1000 for $9? There are other similar options on Amazon. Take a look.

https://www.amazon.com/Retail-Package-envelope-Circle-Labels/dp/B00NVKO6LK/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=mailing+seals&qid=1557264631&s=gateway&sr=8-8

Looks like simstickers in the UK makes keyboard and controller stickers already.

https://simstickers.co.uk/product/keyboard-black/

Or print your own colored stickers.

https://www.amazon.com/Coding-Circle-Labels-Bright-Printer/dp/B0731NYS7G/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=1%2F2+inch+colored+stickers&qid=1567190003&s=gateway&sr=8-8

I like to use these reinforcement labels!

Clear Retail Package Seals 2" Inch Round Circle Wafer Stickers/Labels 500 Per Roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018SRO7EG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.Ytdzb1QWMKSX

You can get these 30-up labels from walmart for like $5. Don't just tape them on. Cover any barcodes already on the book with your labels.

https://www.amazon.com/Avery-Address-Labels-Inches-18160/dp/B001SN8ITI

As far as I know they are just something like these. The stickers break when you remove them and they check at the end of the day.

I would use something like this, available in different sizes.

If you're so inclined, grab yourself a sheet of mailing labels. You can use MS word's labelling function to create a full sheet of labels that read:

Addressee has moved

Please forward to:

[Put their new address here]

When a piece of their mail shows up, slap a label on it, put it back in the mailbox and lift the flag. Or you can just write it out on the envelope, but if you get a lot of this stuff, the labels become more convenient.

The mail will get forwarded to them at their new address, and the Post office will also get the hint after a few of these to start automatically forwarding their mail.

I saw a picture where someone took these and painted them and put them on the top of each bottle.

I buy peel and stick labels. They aren't that expensive and a box lasts FOREVER... and I ship quite a bit of stuff.

https://smile.amazon.com/Propackagingsupply-Shipping-Labels-Compare-1000/dp/B001AKX59C

Here is a link for the sticker sheets. They are 8.5 x11” and can probably go into most printers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WVYGWMD/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_B4r3BbR782EQ0

Here are the ones I purchased (sorry for messy link - on mobile).


9527 Product 100 Sheets Sticker Labels Shipping Address Labels for Laser/Ink Jet Printer,100 Labels. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WVYGWMD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XERHDbRQTS5WN

lol I was just about to say the same thing. It's been a while since a picture has given me anxiety just looking at it. OCD is a terrible thing!

Also, while we are talking about protective cases, I got some clear dot stickers to hold mine closed on one end. They work wonders!