Reddit mentions: The best oil & fluid additives

EDIT: I just realized the picture shows the OIL CAP. I thought it was the Radiator cap when I glanced at first. Oh well... I'll leave the post anyways, perhaps it helps someone with cooling issues. OP: I never dealt with that problem. Definitely looks like cross contamination with coolant. But if that's not the case, try looking into a few oil changes (perhaps with low viscosity oil), along with snake oils such as Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil. I had very good luck with them in the past. Best of luck.

Hey man, I had a nearly identical issue with my truck and fixed it without too many problems. This is assuming your head gasket is good and you aren't cross contaminating oil and coolant.

Basically it boils down to (te-heee) use of certain old antifreeze products known to cause this as well as products like "stop-leak" and similar. Those products and inadequate cooling system maintenance can cause this problem.

You will need a flush kit, along with a few bottles of cleaner. You can get both at Walmart cheaper than Amazon. Get also 5-6 gallons of distilled water.

Install the flush kit on the heater core hoses as described in the instructions. If you have trouble determining which is the hose going into the heater core, turn on the car (ensure heat is off) and touch both heater core hoses as it warms up. The one that stays cold is the outlet.

Flush the system with the garden hose as described in the instructions. The first few times you do it you will see a ton of crap coming out. Flush for a few minutes, then turn off the hose and let the water drain for a bit. Close the drain plug and flush cap, empty one bottle of cleaner in the radiator, top it off with distilled water, close fill cap. Drive the car for a few days.

Repeat the above process 5-6 times every few days until the flush water coming out is completely clean and you no longer see baby-shit accumulating under the radiator cap.

Once you have done a couple of rounds and the coolant water is reliably clean (no traces whatsoever of that crap), do a few rounds of distilled water only (to remove all traces of cleaning agent). Then go ahead and fill it up with good quality antifreeze compatible with what's recommended for that vehicle.

Keep in mind that antifreeze is needed for multiple reasons, including lubrication. Just because it's summer and you don't run the risk of coolant freeze, keep in mind that during the above process you will be running the water pump without lubrication. Since it seems like it's your daily driver, you should be able to do the whole process in the span of a couple of weeks without issue.

Good luck and report back with your findings.

You're getting ripped off at $2000, so $3,000 is astronomical.

My local subaru shop "not a dealer" does HG replacements starting at $900. There are often a few extra parts needed, so it can go up to $1,300, but that isn't often. They do great work and specialize in Subaru... I'm sure there is a similar shop in your area

With a new HG and some Subaru Coolant System Conditioner it should run 200,000 MORE miles.

Honestly, if you picked up a Subie with 78K for less than $3k, boy did you score... It's totally worth the REASONABLE HG replacement.

Nah you should be more than good. Might have em take a peek at the spark plugs but other than that it should be all good. 99% sure you don't have any sludge unless the previous owner truly neglected it.

If it'll make you feel better toss this in immediately prior to oil change. Might not have much of an effect but Liqui Moly makes some good stuff between that, hydraulic lifter additive, and anti-friction additive.

Other than that rav4s are stupid reliable. I have an 03 with 205k on the clock and it still runs like a top.

Thing 2: Your combustion system sounds like it could probably be cleaned.

To grossly oversimplify internal combustion engines, here’s a quick rundown of how they work: Gas gets spritzed into the combustion chamber (this is the part with cylinders and pistons) while fresh, outside air gets sucked in and filtered (this is the part they mean when they say intake manifold). The fuel spritz is controlled by the aptly-named fuel injection and increases when you put your foot down on the pedal. At the same time, the amount of air that comes in is controlled by the throttle body assembly, which opens and closes based on your acceleration. More pedal = more gas and more air. The air and the gas combine and the spark plug fires, igniting the mixture. Tiny explosion forces the piston upward in the cylinder with force, which moves crankshaft, which in turn moves all the other things and ta-daaa! You can go places in your car! More pedal, more gas, more air, more tiny booms, you go zoom! Very fun.

The problem is that modern gas isn’t 100% pure, and it leaves a residue when it ignites. It’s a black carbon deposit that’s almost identical to the soot that collects on the side of a glass candle except there’s way more of it, it’s way stickier and it’s made from the restless ghosts of all those dead dinosaurs you burn up every day to get to work. This residue probably has a real name but I’ve only ever heard it called carb, as in, “the engine is all carbed up so run a bottle of gum-out through it.”

What happens when this shit gets left behind is that it collects on your throttle body plate, which then can get stuck and not open and close appropriately. It can also collect on the little zappy ends of your spark plugs, which means they don’t fire as efficiently. Now without the right air/gas mix, and without the right booms, you no go zoom. And then, your engine is less efficient at burning the fuel in the first place, which means more uncombusted sediment and shit gets left behind and the whole thing becomes exponentially worse. The main sign of all of this is starting your car cold and, while still in park, seeing if your RPM needle bounces as the engine lopes, like Womp...Womp...Womp. If you feel like you need to punch the gas a little to keep it from stalling, that’s a sure sign.

But it doesn’t have to be that bad to need cleaning, and I generally believe that every car that’s not new could use it. Your fuel efficiency will improve and the smell your boyfriend smelled should go away. Shops call this service a fuel system clean, pre-combustion service or an ignition clean, but basically it’s any service that cleans your throttle body, combustion chamber, mass air flow and O2 sensors. You can have it done, or you can run several treatments through your gas tank to approximate this. I like this one but you can get Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil at any auto parts store, too. Cleaningvthe fuel injectors and valves that way and changing out your spark plugs should improve things a bit.

Pro tip: if you have any parts replaced, always have them show you the old part and the new one after it’s installed, if it’s visible. This is an easy way to discourage the most blatant fraudulent deception (charging for new parts not installed), though some shops will find other ways. If they tell you something else is wrong, make them show you. Ask to see the OBD codes. In my experience (being a woman) this causes no problems when you feign curiosity, like “ooh, can I see what that looks like?”

Oh, and, one more thing. If you have the belt/tensioner done and your AC doesn’t immediately blow cold again, have them check the relay/fuse. There’s a fuse box under the hood (in addition to the one by your steering wheel) with a fuse that controls the compressor; if it tried to kick in but your belt wasn’t running it, it could have blown that fuse. It’s a bit frustrating at first when you think you did all you could to fix it but it still doesn’t work and then you remember the fuse. Went through that on my husband’s car.

I know it’s a lot of information but I hope you feel better prepared. The not knowing what’s wrong or what could go wrong with my car is really anxiety-inducing for me, so I hope I’ve helped clear some of that for you.

Let me know how it goes, please!

> Full winterization checklist: - bike on stands, wheels off ground - treat fuel (ensure stabilizer runs through fuel system, too) - change oil before storage - change coolant before storage - wash, wax and detail before storage - clean and lube chain (if so equipped)


This is hundreds of dollars worth of shit that plenty of people don't have to spare, so I'm gonna brake it down a bit.


> bike on stands, wheels off ground

If you don't own stands, this could cost $400 or more(cause you have to buy them). The point in doing this is to prevent flat spots in your tires, so if you've got old tires you don't give a shit about, just let it sit and change them next season. If you do give a shit about your tires but don't want to buy stands, just roll the bike around every week or so to change where it's stilling on the tires.

> treat fuel (ensure stabilizer runs through fuel system, too)

This is a big one that really shouldn't be neglected. You really, REALLY don't want to have to change an injector because a clump of old fuel clogged it. Fuel stabilizer is relatively cheap at $5 for 4 ounces so order some and get it into the bike before putting her away (let it run through the engine too, 1/8-1/4th of the full tank).

> change oil before storage


I take the opposite approach, changing the oil after storage. For the layman, changing your oil has little to do with lubrication. Oil is a lubricant by it's molecular structure, the actual oil itself never stops being a lubricant.


However, there are a ton of additives in oil to keep your engine clean. Anti-mosture, cleaning detergents, anti-foam, etc, etc. These break down over time and use(3 month, 3000 miles) and need to be replaced. And when they break down, they get in the way of your oil(basically filling it with crap so it doesn't lubricate as cleanly as new oil).


> change coolant before storage

IMHO no point in doing this as long as you stay up to date on your coolant. Does it look bad? Change it. Does it look good? Leave it. Just make sure you look it over when pulling her out next year.


> wash, wax and detail before storage

Wax isn't going to protect your paint from cold temps. If you have a cover, put it over the bike to keep it from getting covered in dust.


> clean and lube chain (if so equipped)

Definitely a good idea, 3 months is plenty of time for a change to get some heavy rust on it. If you're super lazy, at least spray it down with some lube(Not WD-40!) before putting it away.

If I were to use an oil additive I would use something containing high levels of molybdenum, which is marketed as an anti-wear additive, and has one of the strongest followings at the moment.

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2009-Anti-Friction-Treatment/dp/B003U4O414/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Keep in mind that a lot of the positive/negative effects can be attributed to placebo.

A lot of additives on the market are 100% useless, it's not the best idea to buy one at random. A bit like make up/supplement/etc. advertising. Are there products out there with evidence to back up the idea that they may make some small positive contribution? Yes. But overpriced junk is the overwhelming majority, and a lot of uninformed people with very large mouths love to spout anecdotal experiences/beliefs as proof/fact.

Is there something that you're particularly concerned about with your car?

That seems like a better option than taking apart a dashboard or throwing down a grand for this.

Have you ever used any of those additives that seal leaks on their own? I'm hoping to just have a fix hold me over until after winter at the latest.

Something like these: https://www.amazon.com/K-Seal-ST5501-Purpose-Permanent-Coolant/dp/B001QT9KO6

http://barsleaks.com/product/liquid-aluminum-cooling-system-stop-leak/

Been through this before...neglected it until I put about $100 of fluid in it, $20 part, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Honda-Civic-Power-Steering-Hose-Lower-Return-Line-OEM-53721SNAA00/, I'd advise dying the line https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M4G24U/ and looking with a uv light to make sure. I paid a dealer $100 ish to install it, probably could have done it myself in an hour but they degreased the bottom of the car, flushed the system and checked for leaks again, whatever works for you. Not 100% sure that this is what is going on with you but what happened for me is that over time the pipe gets eaten away by road salt and debris and you basically just gush power steering fluid. Best of luck.

Stabil.

Buy some. Go to WalMart or wherever you buy oil and whatnot. They will have it. When you put fuel in your bike put some stabil in as well. They have terms for how much is appropriate, I don't know them. I add a solid dollop or 6 when I fill up. Been doing it for 10 years, so far so good. Stabil keeps your gas from going stale. Stale gas is bad. Bike no run good. Adding to little may not get the job done. Add too much and all is well. It's cheap stuff. A bottle lasts me a year or two.

>

Seriously consider heated gear. It's awesome.

>Any recommendations? my battery is already set up

The word on the street is that Gerbings makes the best stuff, very nice warranty as well. My electrics are FirstGear. Mostly because they were cheaper. 5-6 years of use thus far and no trouble from the gear.

You need a controller. Google it. On high - which is what electrics default too - you'll cook. IMO a jacket/gloves are the way to start. It's what I have been riding in for years now in PA. Pants/etc are all well and good.. but I don't seem to need them much. I may just be tough as nails ; )

Heated grips will do an awful lot and I have ridden through several winters with just grips and a jacket. Heated gloves are a sign from god that he loves us all and wants us to die on two wheels.

Good luck!

That’s not a Long video, but it does sound like it’s a pretty excessive knock. I’m sure that by now you’ve pulled over and checked your oil. If you need to add oil, I would put in an oil additive such as Lucas or somesuch real thick additive.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS1XYO/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_QGr0AbAS9K0A9

Not low on coolant √ So that sounds promising. I already have a new thermostat and will replace tomorrow. I just didnt want to drain the whole system again. Is the Subaru Coolant Conditioner something I should add as well?

Will check on the heater core hoses and update.

Thanks so much for your help!

I always took two stones and a little Marvel Mystery oil and rubbed the stones together. Works like a charm. But honestly, that's not a lot of build up and won't affect your honing too much. When there are shiny spots where the edge meets the stone, that's when it needs to be cleaned, that's when there is a build up of metal material above the grit of the stone.

I've had success UV dye:

https://smile.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Fuel-Systems-ounce/dp/B002M4G24U/

Here's some cheap blacklights:

https://smile.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Detection-Glasses-438/dp/B003JOB594/

https://smile.amazon.com/POCKETMAN-UV-Ultraviolet-Blacklights-Flashlight-Detecting/dp/B01FS64GNC/

That being said, ih8mud is a much better place for these questions. It's much more active.

You're not wrong.

Definitely sounds like K-Seal will have a high chance of fixing it though. Shake first, then pour, then enjoy the time and money saved.

https://www.amazon.com/K-Seal-ST5501-Purpose-Permanent-Coolant/dp/B001QT9KO6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=kseal&qid=1568304202&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Nice! As preventative maintenance Subaru sells this stuff. It is rebranded Holt's Radweld. Small bottle. I threw some in my daughter's Subie just in case. Can't hurt I guess. If the headgaskets on the replacement motor were original units then it is probably just a matter of time before they go too. But, you never know. This magic Subie juice is supposed to help.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3GZ6ZTJOIDK4X&keywords=subaru+radiator+conditioner&qid=1554864612&s=gateway&sprefix=subaru+radiator+%2Caps%2C328&sr=8-3

ez fix, buy one of these kits: http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AFKIT0-Universal-Flush-Fill/dp/B000CCFY5W/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1323365128&sr=8-9
flush system out and run water from hose threw motor while running for like 20 minutes good to go, ditched the dex cool out of my saab with a similar kit. cheap and sold everywhere

LifeStraw will expand your water resources.

Fuel. ~30 gal of gasoline in Gerry cans with stabilizer will last a couple of years. Also, TruFuel will keep your soon-to-be-purchased generator(s) ready to go after long-term storage. Don't forget the oil.

Edit: the LifeStraws go on sale occasionally for like ~$15 on Amazon so keep your eyes open for them.

If you don't have record of the last time the coolant was changed, change it. To play it safe I'd use Subaru Super Coolant (blue) with Subaru Cooling System Conditioner (Holts Radweld).

In the event you need to do the head gasket, Speed Academy has an amazing video I used to do mine.

• Subarus tend to be easy to fix when they break. I have an '09 2.5i SE 5MT and I didn't even have to remove the hood to remove my engine.
  
• Make sure whatever brand you use the new gaskets are MLS (multi-layer steel). As they are regarded in the community I used Six-Star Bernie.
  
• If I had to do it again I would have used ARP studs to fasten my heads to the block.
  
• Machine shop labor is cheap. Take your heads to one to have them professionally-decked.
  
• When torquing the head studs into the block, find the Subaru directions (i.e., Mitchell1) and *follow them to the letter*. You're going to be turning them, backing them off, turning them again and whatnot. Just go with it.
  
• "As long as ya got it outta there" you can change these things as well:
  
  • Timing belt & pulleys, thermostat, water pump (Aisin / "eye-shin" sells a reasonably-priced kit)
    
  • Coolant hoses
    
  • Spark plugs
    
  • Engine oil and filter
    
  • Oil pump
    
  • STi engine mounts (left, right)
    
  • *RECOMMENDED* oil pickup (the OEM one tends to crack, starving your engine of oil)
    
  • *RECOMMENDED* timing belt guide (as the stamped OEM one failed when my engine blew, I replaced it with a Tomei milled one)
    
    Call me crazy, but when I blew my engine I elected to keep the car. Subaru has engineered a family sedan way better than it has to be for the market and it shows.
    
    I need to do some digging to find the invoices of parts I purchased; I'll update this reply as I find them.

You spent 6 bucks on 1 ounce of mystery oil!!?? Where the hell did you buy it?? Amazon has it for $5.99 a pint CD 2 MM12R 16 oz. Marvel Mystery Oil Pint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JKGKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_APG4DbZWZ76EZ

All nitro will blow oil out the exhaust but it shouldn’t be excessive, you could probably afford to turn your lean screw in a half turn. If you switch to byrons or if you switch to any fuel (VP fuels are also pretty decent) set you lean screw back to stock and tune from there. Humidity and ambient temperatures also affect air/fuel ratios. High humidity will run a little richer, low humidity leaner. Cold ambient temp will want to run leaner also.

QT on Lawrenceville Hwy at Cooledge normally has several Ethanol free pumps. (I use it for all my lawn equipment.)

Now, as for the Tetraethyl lead additive, you'll need a time machine or a can of Motor Medic lead substitute. https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Medic-Gunk-M5012-Substitute/dp/B002008NWA

If it is a leak and not just burning oil, I've used this with great success. Add to your engine oil, run car for a day or so, in a dark garage or outside in the dark, shine an infrared light in the engine, the leak will stand out very clearly with a bright yellow stain. Ultraviolet bulbs are less than $5 at home depot and probably Amazon. This additive can be ordered from any auto supply shop.




http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-374CS-Engine-Transmission-Dye/dp/B002M4G24U/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NAV606F0JZ0XYXARBPG

I'm guessing it's this stuff.

And no, it's not going to improve your gas mileage. It might help clean carbon deposits out of your fuel system and help your car run slightly more efficiently, but any MPG gains will be negligible. You're not going to go from 18 MPG to 25 MPG just by putting some of this in your tank.

I always buy the cheapest gas available, but use Lucas Fuel Additive. It boosts my mileage a couple of miles per gallon and keeps the injectors clean & the upper cylinder lubricated.

Fuel stabilizer: https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I

I've saved gasoline 2-3 years without STABIL, I'd be hard pressed to tell you whether or not this stuff is really required. But it is not real expensive so to me it is worth it.

What you really have to do to save gas is have a set of cans and rotate through them so you always use the oldest gas first.

LOWEST price on DEF per 55 Gal and FREE 2 Day Delivery... Amazon prime is amazing!
https://www.amazon.com/Sinopec-DEF-Diesel-Exhaust-Fluid/dp/B01JZXWBYK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505496371&sr=8-1&keywords=def+55+gallon+drum

One easy potential repair is adding a sealant to your radiator. It doesn’t work on all head gasket issues, but it does work on some (at least for awhile) and could extend the useful life by a bit.

This stuff sealed a radiator (non head-gasket) leak for me and there are reviews and videos of it fixing leaks in the head-gasket as well.

It doesn't answer your question, but if I were you I'd order some fuel stabilizer online. Fill up the tank to the tip-top and put that in.

Fuel stabilizer will keep your gas "fresh" for up to 2 years, so you should make it through a few months just fine. Just make sure to top off your tank and re-add the appropriate amount of stabilizer after a ride.

Always get the scheduled maintenance done that is recommended in the owner’s booklet. Typically, I’ll get my oil change done at the same time because it’s usually every 8,000km/5000 miles. Make sure the mechanic uses 100% synthetic, and not some 50/50 cheap alternative.

For that salt buildup, Krown protectant is worth it. Get that applied at least every second year. In Canada it’s about $130, so in the US it’s probably $75-90. If you’re doing Krown and planning to regularly get a car wash, DO NOT go for the carwash that sprays the underside of the car. This can rinse off the Krown protectant over time.

Since you’re at the 62K mile mark, you can start using Lukas oil stabilizer and Lukas injector cleaner . You wouldn’t need it if you’re under 50k miles, but once the engine gets older it starts to burn oil less efficiently;it’s normal. My mechanic swears by this stuff- and no he doesn’t sell it, he tells me to grab it at the local hardware/automotive supply store, so I know he’s honest.

I think you can order Trufuel. It's in 32oz. Cans and I just buy it at home depot though lowes carries it as well. I guess amazon sells it also! http://www.amazon.com/TruFuel-4-Cycle-Ethanol-Free-Outdoor-Equipment/dp/B009QT1KLO (pack of 6)it's ethanol-free 92 octane gasoline basically. It's a little more spendy than mixing your own gas, but I don't have to do anything to my mower during the winter or worry about lines getting gummed up. Last winter I ran the mower until there was no trufuel left. Started first pull this spring. I also use the 2-cycle trufuel in my weedeater. Maintenance wise you should be set for a bit with a new mower, I think it says in the manual to change the oil after first 20 hours use or so. Just change the oil per the schedule and if your in a super dusty place keep an eye on the filter.

Fascinating. I'm wondering if Subaru recommends and approves only one type of "stop leak", something they call a coolant conditioner, such as this, https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE

Last update because you guys helped me solve the problem and it was relatively easy. Apparently I have a high-compression DR. I poured 1.5 ounces of this octane booster in the tank and boom! Runs smooth and pulls hard through all the gears now. Why was this so hard? I thought this stuff was snake oil. Especially for my old school stock engine. Guess I'm running 93 from now one. THANK YOU!!

If you regularly use brand name fuel like Chevron or Exxon, you can skip the injector cleaning well past 30k miles. If you regularly use the absolute cheapest gas you can find, you may way to use BG 44K on occasion. Probably works 90% as well as the dealer service at 15% the cost. https://www.amazon.com/BG-44K-Fuel-System-Cleaner/dp/B00DDVU6EI

Dump some Mystery Oil in there. That stuff is magic. 4oz in the gas to clean and lube the fuel system and substitute it for up to a quarter of of the oil capacity when you do an oil change. Drive it for 1k miles or so and do another oil change to drain all the shit it will clean up out. It might solve the idle issue if you think it's because of the dirty injectors.

If you use Delo 400 oil (which I recommend) there's some in that already. There's a German company called Lubromoly that's well thought of. They make a product called Liquimoly that is very well thought of. It's basically about 300ml of the stuff. Add it to the oil when the engine is still hot shortly after an oil change and drive it around. After a certain amount of miles it'll bake into all the scratches and such on the sliding surfaces.

Probably wouldn't be a horrible idea to throw a bottle of fuel stabilizer in the tank as well. When you go to buy the battery just ask where the fuel stabilizer is. I personally use http://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I Edit- you dont need the 32oz like 4-8oz should be enough

I use two in my 00 toyota sienna.

http://www.amazon.com/BG-44K-Fuel-System-Cleaner/dp/B00DDVU6EI

http://www.amazon.com/MOA-Part-110-Engine-Supplement/dp/B00FX6N7DI/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0DG7P6AQQ4C24AMTHVK7

Early on I had a gelled up engine, low oil pressure issue I used the BG cleaner and removed the oil pan to finish the cleaning. Its been pretty good!

Do you have a small leak anywhere, and was the water pump changed the last time the timing belt was done? As others have mentioned the thermostat is a good place to start. Also Subaru makes a coolant conditioner that should be used when not using genuine Subaru coolant. It's a small bottle that can easily be found on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE

Lucas fuel treatment

I dump in 6 ounces every tankful. I usually fill up on a 1/4 tank. You can buy a small bottle to carry in the truck that way you have a quart on hand and it's easy to put in. Then I refill it out of the gallon jug

I also use FPPF Killem Biocide Additive. 1/2 an ounce every other tank.

What kind of gas are you running? What brand?

In turbo engines running cheap low grade gas can cause carbon buildup. You should be buying gas from top tier stations.

Run this through your truck a couple of times, should help.

BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDVU6EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z4EKybBVCRTRY

You're on the way! Did this leak start with the oil change, has it been happening a while, or did you just notice(and not sure when it started)?

Next step is to track down where it's leaking from. If you can see wetness, follow it uphill along whatever surface it's coming down.

If you can't track it visually, you can try spreading a paper towel flat around where the drop fell from, and look for a track of oil on the paper towel. Repeat following the track. If the engine is oily though, you may just get an oily rag...

If necessary, you can use some of this with one of these, but hopefully won't need them.

Damnit, I just went to their website to confirm and got confused which it was now - it’s been 2 years. It was definitely an engine flush product, but looking at their Australian website, none of the containers there look quite the same as the one I had - they’re all silver, the one I used was black.

EDIT: I gave up with their website, but I think I found it on amazon. 90% sure it was this one
https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2037-Pro-Line-Engine/dp/B00CR3RXTO

Depends. But this would be the easiest thing to do.

Some people hate it, some use it (I haven't) - there us a thing called engine flush to clean the oil system. You pour it in the old oil, led it run for a few minutes and change the oil then. Can get rid of sludge, some people vlsim it can damage the engines seals. https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2037-Pro-Line-Engine/dp/B00CR3RXTO

You then take good Bmw ll98 or ll01 oil and see how it runs.

Something like this:

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-super/mobil-super-synthetic-euro#5W-40

I used to use Lucas Oil Upper Cylinder Lubricant for about a year. Seemed to make the idle better. Been without it for about 6 years now though, and I haven't noticed a difference besides the idle.

Marvel MM13R Mystery Oil - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JKGJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4t3Syb5PE9GT4

Sort of. But you can also buy fuel stabilizer commonly used in the marine industry since when you haul your boat out for winter most people don't empty their tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I For the curious.

Doesn't get any better than royal purple, nice choice. I would still recommend a friction modifier, but if you wheel and have to flush the diff out often maybe just skip it. If you don't, and just do normal service this stuff goes in my 67 Jeep front and rear LSD diffs, the rear of my 98 ZJ and my LJ (has air lockers but I add anyway, doesn't hurt)

It's real quality stuff and will prevent it from chattering, one bottle per axle

For gas, you can use a stabilizer to store it for a few years. I use something like this to store gas although I tend to use it within a year: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B68V6I

>I have a good knowledge of car maintenance but have never owned a 4wd before.

>
I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2V8, NP249J transfer case, Dana30 front diff, and ?Dana44A rear diff? still not 100% sure about the rear diff model


1994 would have a d35


>
If I use this Lucas gear oil 75w-140 Synth, which says excellent for limited slip use, do I still need to add this additive when I service the differentials?


That'll be fine, no need for an additive.

>
Also ATF+4 in the transfer case?


Dex/merc or atf+4. The tcase isn't picky.

>
How do I tell if my Viscous coupler is bad? Recommendations if it is?


I think the test is to turn in a tight circle and if you feel binding it's bad. Recommend a 231 or 242 swap.

For the lazy. Basically, you squeeze the main reservoir and it fills up the upper portion to your desired measurement. I don't know that I'd drink mouthwash out of an old Stabil bottle though...

Did you change out your coolant with Subaru coolant and put in the Subaru coolant conditioner after your head gasket job? The conditioner is very important.

Example:
http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE

One more thing, if you really want to try cleaning the injectors, on this car, buy this and throw it in your gas tank following the instructions for how much on the bottle. It's basically all the dealer is doing.

its the clutch packs in the axle from the quadra drive system. you either need to add friction modifier https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mopar-4318060AC-Limited-Additive/dp/B000TTEX8W. I had to do a full fluid change I used royal purple 75W140 with limited slip addative, as well as a little extra mopar addative. sound went away

Here is the mobile version of your link

What's the local equivalent to this (Marvel Mystery Oil)?

I went out and bought one of these Prestone Flush 'N Fill Kits and followed the directions in this XJTalk thread.

You could do that several times if you wanted to. It would take more than a gallon though. This is what you need.

Ever try a fuel stabilizer?

http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE

Marvel Mystery Oil

I'm going to second this, but add that I use the one with a built-in hose which has been very reliable. Mine have been stored in my non-climate controlled barn for years with no adverse effects. The valve take a bit of practice to get used to using, but not a bother after that. I use an old wine cork to keep bugs and dust out of the hose.

Also note: I only use real gas and a stabilizer in these cans. For the slight extra cost, I can use it in all of my vehicles, farm equipment, and power equipment without worrying about the ethanol content. I buy the stabilizer in bulk from Amazon as well.

UV Leak Dye

Try this with a UV light and glasses. They're available at most auto parts stores like autozone and advance. Add it into your coolant. It will show you exactly where the leak is coming from.

Maybe a sealant can help you for a while, but given the amount you're losing I bet it's a big leak.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/K-Seal-ST5501-Purpose-Permanent-Coolant/dp/B001QT9KO6

Sta-Bil allows gas to be stored up to two years. I'd half that time just to be safe. To avoid it ever going bad, just cycle your stored gas through your car and replace it.

That’s were you fucked up, ever since I used diesel oil my car has a strange tick that I can’t rid of from valve adjustment and a slight shake at idle, but still she goes.


For me Mobil one synthetic 15w-50 from Walmart and Liquid Molly antifriction helped bring my motor back to a serviceable daily life, never again will I buy diesel oil

Liqui Moly 2009 Anti-Friction Oil Treatment - 300 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U4O414/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nBMUDb104ZTVT

If it's a guaranteed 3-4 months, no worries. However, when it's out of sight out mind, your timeline may stretch and it'll become 6-8 months, etc.

So your gas doesn't turn to varnish if it does end up sitting longer than you expected, add some Sta-Bil.

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I

You can get this pretty much anywhere.

-Catalytic converters will start throwing codes eventually. Had my sensors spaced out (put a spacer between the sensor and spot they screw in on in the catalytic converter) so it wouldn't throw the codes anymore. I think the OEM converters are roughly 900 each.

-Here is a discussion on the timing chain for the 4.2L V8 S5. It does not seem to be the same issue as the earlier 4.2L V8's in the S4 and RS4's.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/778497-Timing-Chain-service-at-100k-miles

-Carbon will be an issue, just no good rule of thumb on how long to wait before getting it delt with. If you start seeing miss fire codes probably time to get it checked. My local non-audi shop charged me 800 for the time to clean it with break cleaner and a brush. They charge 86 an hour. You'll also get charged for new gaskets to put the intake manifold back on. However I was getting miss fire codes after getting mine cleaned so I ran a bottle of this through my gas tank and never saw the issue again.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DDVU6EI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-I've not had an issue with mounts yet not sure if/when I will. My car is currently at 111k miles and I bought it at 66k miles and I'm at least the 3rd owner. If you decide to replace them you can get more solid motor mounts, here is one company that sells them but there are several others out there that should sell them as well.
https://www.jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/index.php

-List of things I've had to get fixed that I can remember.

-headlights (If I recall it was about 250 for both new ones together)

-Carbon cleaning

-Stereo system went bad, had to go to dealership to fix it, 1400 for oem replacement, diagnosing and time to install ended up costing me 2k

-Replaced oil separator OEM roughly 350 hopefully cuts down on carbon build up. Considered an oil catch can just never pulled the trigger to do it. Gotta remember to empty those if you get one.

-Currently dealing with randomly leaking AC system. Shop put dye in the AC system when they refilled it twice now, still can't find where it's leaking out with the black light.

-Hood strut went bad, replaced it.

Basically all general maintenance stuff outside the audio system. If you have any other questions let me know.