Reddit reviews: The best oils & fluids

We found 2,243 Reddit comments discussing the best oils & fluids. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 753 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top Reddit comments about Oils & Fluids:

u/cybrian · 2 pointsr/n64

I wrote a huge comment here on how to refurbish a stick, but it was a reply to another comment that was deleted. The deleted comment mentioned Kitsch-Bent brand replacement gears, which I would recommend for sure. You can find them on google and on eBay. (And for the record I'm not associated with Kitsch-Bent, I've just used their product and I don't know of any competitors.)

Keep in mind they're not quite as good as brand new gears, but you can get a pack of 10 controllers' worth for significantly less than you'd spend on a single brand new controller.

In addition to this, here's how you refurbish the rest of the stick: I would highly recommend buying a jar of ceramic grease and applying it to the insides of the stick using a toothpick, or with a q-tip with the end cut off. This is the stuff I use.

You're only going to want to use a little bit. This jar will be enough for every N64 controller you ever repair. Seriously. The other bonus is that the ceramic microparticles embed themselves in the plastic, so instead of the assembly being dry plastic on plastic (which will rub itself to dust, literally) it becomes greased ceramic rubbing against ceramic. Theoretically it'll last forever, and practically it'll most certainly last "long enough."

You want to take the whole joystick assembly apart, keeping in mind the order and orientation of everything. Then you want to actually clean all of the parts as good as possible. (If you replace the gears then just throw the old ones out — don't bother cleaning them). There shouldn't be any plastic dust on them before you continue.

DO NOT REMOVE THE ROUND BLACK GEARS WITH SLOTS ALONG THE EDGES FROM THE WHITE BOWL. These gears are precision designed and are meant for sensing the displacement of the stick. If you fuck them up, your joystick is garbage. Heed my warning.

Now that the parts are all clean, put them together and grease them in this order:

  1. Insert the stick through the top part of the assembly further than normal, so the ball is past where it normally sits and the top of the stick is flush with the top of the assembly. Place it upside down on the table, so the insides are sticking up and the top of the stick is against the table. Then use a toothpick to grease the inner "slots" of the ball of the stick. Use VERY little grease here, and do NOT get any on the rest of the stick.
  2. Take the spring between each hand and tug it lightly to expand it. You want both ends of the spring to still be parallel to one another, so don't tug too hard. DO NOT GREASE THE SPRING.
  3. Place the smaller end of the spring into the top part of the joystick assembly. At this point, the top plastic should be sandwiched, so to speak, between the top of the joystick itself and the smaller end of the spring.
  4. Place the white ring, lip side down, on top of the spring. Now use your toothpick to apply very little ceramic grease to the exposed, flat side of the ring.
  5. The smaller gear holds the top assembly together, but before you put it on we want to grease it. Apply grease somewhat liberally to the oval inside that goes around the end of the stick. Put a little on the convex side, too, but try not to get much on the concave side. It isn't the end of the world if you do, but try not to.
  6. Notice the gears are shaped with D-shaped ends on their "axles." Apply a dab of grease on the flat side of these D-shaped ends.
  7. Lock the top half of the assembly back together by putting the smaller gear on. You want to insert the flat "tab" on the end of the stick through the gear, and then turn the gear 90°. The actual gear itself should be towards the top, and the tab should be perpendicular to the slot in the gear assembly.
  8. You should have, at this point, applied grease to: The slots in the ball of the joystick, the white plastic ring, the slot in the small gear, and the flat sides of the D-shaped ends of the small gear's "axles," and then put the top half of the assembly back together. Now go ahead and apply a little to the sides of the tab on the end of the stick, and a nice sized dab on its ball-shaped tip.
  9. Now we're done with the top half! Let's focus on the bottom half. Take it all apart, except do not attempt to remove the gears from the white bowl piece. Now clean everything, so there is no plastic dust at all.
  10. Make sure the white bowl part and its gears are completely dry, and don't apply any grease to any part of it yet. Look closely at the gears and notice there are slots in it. The joystick works because the optical sensors in the circuit board count the number of slots. If you have a steady hand, and you replaced the gears in your stick with Kitsch Bent gears, I suggest applying a very minuscule amount of grease along the teeth of the gears, and ONLY the teeth. If you get any on the part of the gears with slots, clean them very well. The joystick will not work if there are any contaminants the slots. If you don't have a steady hand, or these aren't replacement gears, don't bother greasing their teeth at all. The risk isn't worth it.
  11. Place the bowl/gear assembly back into the bottom half of the joystick assembly's shell. With the screw hole on the bottom, there should be one gear on the right-hand side, and one gear on top. Feel free to put the circuit board back on at this point, too.
  12. The white bowl is actually the most fragile part of the assembly, and the part that wears the most. That's why the "joystick dust" is white. To prevent that, apply a rather liberal amount (by which I mean maybe two or three dabs — we really don't want to use a lot of this stuff!) inside the bowl, and then use your toothpick to apply some to the "slots" along the edge.
  13. Now let's grease the larger gear. Don't apply any grease to the teeth of the gear unless they're new, Kitsch Bent gears and you have a steady hand. Do apply grease to the entirety of the slot part of the gear, so you're actually greasing the concave, convex, and inside of the slot part. Then get the little D-shaped axle ends like on the smaller gear, and drop it back into the bowl. This gear should mesh with the optical gear on the right-hand side of the bowl.
  14. Put the damn thing back together. Be careful to make sure the tab at the tip of the joystick fits into the slot on the larger gear, and that the teeth of the smaller gear are on the opposite side of the top assembly from the screw hole. Feel free to hold it together with your fingers and play with the stick a little before screwing it together, as you want to work some of the grease in further and you can easily take it back apart if something feels wrong.

    As long as you followed this carefully and made sure to not get any grease anywhere near the optical sensors, nor anywhere near the slots they sense your joystick should be as good as can be.

    I've purchased two brand new OEM N64 controllers, and I did this to both of them.
u/2old2care · 14 pointsr/audiophile

It looks beautiful, obviously stored in good conditions. I'm not sure how it works, but my bet is it will take very little to get it going. The tubes are likely OK because these amplifiers are used very few hours compared to commercial equipment. The main thing to check is the filter capacitors. The other capacitors and resistors are likely OK if it's been stored in an air conditioned area. Also, changes in values of these will not cause damage when the unit is powered up. It will likely be necessary to clean all the controls and switches, too.

Having restored a lot of older equipment, here's what I would do before turning it on:

  1. With the unit out of the cabinet and disconnected from power, use an ohmmeter to be sure you don't have a short from the "hot" terminals of the four main electrolytic filter capacitors (the ones mounted on top of the chassis with the tubes) and chassis ground. With an analog ohmmeter, you should be able to reverse the test leads and see a "kick" when you first touch the terminal. Reverse again, kick again. This shows the capacitors are not "open". After a few seconds, the resistance should be above about 50K ohms. Also carefully inspect the unit for anything that may look burned or discolored. (If you don't have a high resistance or get the kick, you'll need to ohmmeter-test the capacitors individually. This means they will each have to be disconnected, and things get more complicated.)

  2. Carefully remove the tubes and plug them back in, one at a time. Be sure they are always in the same socket they came out of! It's a good idea to remove and replace each tube several times to remove oxidation. The sockets for these tubes are self-wiping so this action tends to clean the tube pins and restore solid connections. It's not a bad idea to wash the tubes carefully with dishwashing liquid, rinse them fully and let them completely dry. You could also wash the removable tube shields while you're at it. This will remove dust and help keep the tubes cool and potentially remove leakage paths that can cause electrical noise.

  3. If above seems OK, remove the rectifier tube (I think a 5U4 or 5R4--but it's the largest tube and the only one that starts with a 5). Be sure the fuse is OK (check with an ohmmeter), then plug it in and turn it on. You should see all the tube filaments and pilot light come on. This will confirm that the tubes and power transformer are likely OK. Be aware that from now on, there are LETHAL voltages in this amplifier! Treat it with respect! Don't touch anything inside when the power is on, and be wary that the filter capacitors can hold high voltages for a considerable length of time after the unit is turned off and unplugged.

  4. From here on, the question is, "How brave are you?" Before you power it on, connect a speaker to each of the output terminals - 4, 8, or 16 ohms as applicable. If in doubt, connect the speakers to the 8-ohm terminals. This is important because tube amplifiers always need a load, and because you can hear any hum or noise that may be present.

  5. If the previous tests passed, I'd be inclined to give it a full power-on check, but being ready to pull the plug quickly if needed. At this stage, the mostly likely thing to happen is a dramatic failure of a filter capacitor, usually in the form of some hissing noises and bad-smelling smoke. This will happen about 5 seconds after you plug in the power. If you pull the plug at the slightest hint of a problem, there won't be a lot of damage other than the capacitors that are already bad. If it's a really serious problem, the fuse on the back will probably blow at this point.

  6. If you don't want to do the smoke test as described, you can try bringing up the voltage to the amplifier gradually using a variac, starting at about 30-40 volts, gradually bringing it up to a normal 120 volts if there is no smoke or noise. This makes the smoke test slower and more controllable. A cheaper test is to wire a 60-watt light bulb in series with the AC power cord. When you switch on the power, the lamp should come up to near full brightness in a few of seconds, then get dimmer, then after about 15-30 seconds come up to to maybe half brightness. If that seems OK, set the input to PHONO and turn the volume all the way up. You should be able to hear at least some noise in the speakers. A quiet hiss is good, a low hum is ok. A loud hum is not OK. If you get a 120 Hz. hum, that's caused by bad filter capacitors and you'll need to replace them. If it's a 60-Hz hum, it may be something else and may go away with a proper input connected.

  7. If it passes the smoke test and doesn't blow the fuse, you're probably good to go with testing it with real audio sources. You should count on cleaning all the switches and controls with a good contact cleaner. It's also effective to pull outward on volume and tone controls as you rotate them from end to end a few times to clear away oxidation.

  8. It may or may not be worthwhile to "recap" the amp (replace all the capacitors). While this may help performance, it's equally possible that a working all-original unit that has not been modified in any way will have higher resale value. In my experience, it's best to replace as few parts as possible. In high quality equipment like this, component failures are actually pretty rare and the resistors and capacitors used were surprisingly stable.

    I recently refurbished a 14-tube receiver from 1964 and all it required was a good cleaning. Absolutely no tubes or capacitors were bad.

    Good luck with the project!!
u/Hotrian · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

  1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
  2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
  3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
  4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
  5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).

    There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:

  • Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  • 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  • Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  • A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  • An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  • A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  • Small bags (for silica beads),
  • PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  • Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  • SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  • Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  • Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  • Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  • Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  • E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  • Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  • Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  • And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...

    Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..

    ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!
u/itsZiz · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I wanted to share my first experience with switch swapping. I was nervous because so many people said the Leopold was hard to desolder and this was my first time soldering any thing. But it all went really well, so I wanted to share in case any one else is thinking about it plus some info that might be useful to you veterans as well.

One part of keyboard customization I don't see addressed much is deadening the ping and case sound. Some people add foam to the bottom, but I found going between the PCB and Plate reduces sound a LOT. This baby is stuffed like a turkey and sounds amazing.

I've also seen a lot of people saying how great the Engineer solder sucker is. While the build quality is nice I'm not sure its worth $25, and most of the performance was because of the silicon tip. So I just added one to a cheap sucker and it worked great. I was worried about the temp as it says it isn't rated up to 350c but it worked great with barely any discoloring, and for like $1 you get 3ft so it basically lasts forever.


Links -

Neoprene $12 1/8" - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FVG3CM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Soldering Station $37 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/STM32-T12-Soldering-Station-Electronic-Soldering-iron-OLED-1-3-Digital-station-solder-iron-tip-welding/32994824865.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3

Solder Sucker $5 - https://www.banggood.com/Sucking-Vacuum-Desoldering-Pump-Solder-Sucker-Remover-Tool-p-932434.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

Silicon Tube 5x7mm $1 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-Meter-Food-Grade-Transparent-Silicone-Rubber-Hose-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-10/32986897358.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3

DSA Caps $35 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/dsa-profile-Dye-Sub-Keycap-Set-PBT-plastic-retro-beige-for-mechanical-keyboard-beige-grey-cyan/32965815374.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3

Super Lube $5 - https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=super+lube&qid=1556304495&s=gateway&sr=8-5


I realized I really don't like the DSA keycap profile but this was a really nice set, pretty thick and great dye sub printing, way more crisp than my Enjoy PBT Cherry profile set I've been using.


I didn't have any lifted pads or issues at all despite me being a total noob. Using a 2.4mm chisel tip and my solder sucker combo worked really well. Just stuck the flat tip on flat side (top/bottom) of the soldered stem, let it heat up for about 5-6 seconds and then sucked. At 350c on my soldering Iron most guides said this was too long but i didn't have any issues, and going quicker left a lot of residue.

Also with the silicon tip I didn't have to move the soldering tip and place the sucker over the stem (doing this fast before the solder cools down is a pita) because of the silicon I just pressed it on top with the soldering iron still heating and sucked all at once. DEFINITELY worth the $1, made the process so much easier.

I also used Super Lube for all my lubing. This is what a lot of people use for the stabilizers as its really thick but then use expensive stuff for the switches. I just used a very small amount (scrape your brush off and then wipe it on so you can barely see it but its shiny). Worked great, no ping from the springs and very smooth and a $5 tube will last forever.


I want to do another now! need to decide on what type of switches I might like more than these super light 35g box reds. Maybe some speed switches? And I'll want to do a good solid metal case.

Overall I'm just super happy the whole thing worked without any problems. I get to use my really good Leopold plate/base/pcb (i really like the led under caps/num lock to let you know its on) with switches I like more!


If any one has any questions or needs help doing their first switch swap let me know, I'm 1 for 1 haha.

u/UboaNoticedYou · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Hey! I've taken apart and fixed more joycons than I can count at this point.

Under the buttons are a rubber contact pad, followed by the contacts themselves. There are three potential issues I can think of right off the bat.

  1. The contact for the A button is damaged or scratched. This is worse case scenario and not very likely unless you got sand into your joycon somehow.

  2. Dirt and gunk on the inside has gotten under the contact pad. This is the most likely possibility in my opinion.

  3. Nintendo put your joycon back together wrong, and the contact pad has shifted position over time. Not super likely but definitely a possibility, if you don't like the contact pad up correctly it could interfere with the function of the controller.

    Regardless of the issue, you're gonna need to open it up and clean it. The toolkit I use it the iFixit Mako toolkit. It'll have all the bits and tools you need save for some needlenose tweezers, and while some other brands like Wera will have higher quality bits, the iFixit kit is more than enough for your needs, especially if this is the only thing you plan on repairing.

    Opening up a joycon can be quite challenging, and to get to the buttons requires taking the entire thing apart due to how everything is sandwiched together. As daunting as it may be, it IS possible as long as you have the right tools, a little confidence, and a lot of patience. JerryRigEverything has an excellent tutorial on how to take apart the Switch, but you only need to worry about the section regarding the right joycon.

    While you're buying everything you need (the toolkit, some tweezers [preferably angled], your favorite brand of ice cream to celebrate after), I also recommend getting [a can of Hosa contact cleaner.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU) This stuff is like magic. Spray a tiny bit on the contact for the A button and let it dry, and it'll probably work good as new! Although you don't NEED to get this, it can help with old or damaged electronics, and if you plan on fixing any other controllers I definitely recommend it.

    Now, if you're buying literally everything I recommend then it's gonna come out to >$40 most likely, which is about the price for a single joycon. You can save some money by forgoing the contact cleaner and just buying the triwing and phillips head bits online yourself, but these are all tools that will help you in the future. Think of it as an investment. If you ever have a joycon acting up again, you'll be able to fix it yourself and not have to worry about a warranty. Plus, you can fix your friends' controllers like I have many times! Then again, I'm weird. I enjoy modding joycons. I'm still proud of my most recent mod I made as a birthday gift.

    Whatever you decide, best of luck! I'd love to hear how the repair goes if you decide to go through with it!
u/MycTyson · 2 pointsr/MushroomGrowers

>Silicone: I see clear silicone used a lot. Any recommendations?

Get the RTV high temp - I use clear 100% Silicone from GE available at Wal-Mart and it fails after only a few uses, most auto stores will have the RTV high temp silicone.

$5.30 on Amazon! Gotta love Amazon Prime, very worth it for the small purchases that show up in 2 days.

>Jars: You are going to want a supply of Quart jars. Extra lids eventually too. Buy them anyplace.

I'd specify wide mouth for cakes, regular mouth for spawn. I use wide mouth exclusively, just as a personal preference. I can make cakes of any size, or spawn for that matter!

>Ty-vex: Get them from the post office for free.

Just a silly thing, 'Tyvek' as opposed to 'Tvvex'. It's this one when you go to the post office.

>Petri Dishes: (glass plastic?)

You'd think glass, but no. I can't justify the cost vs the amount of petri dishes I need to work with. I prefer the '4 section' petri dishes for expanding cultures or when receiving a new culture. That way you can quickly expand it if it's clean or isolate away from contaminants on the same dish, instead of using multiple. For presentation, I prefer the dishes that /u/SmellyTongues sends me from Cell Treat. Wow, they're beautiful! They stack very nicely, and seal much better than the cheap 4 section ones I've bought off of Amazon.

>Bags for Pressure cooker?

What? Are you referring to filtered patch bags for growing?

>masks, gloves

I'll be doing a write up soon about sterile operating procedure which I'll get shortened to SOP in context of this hobby, which should encompass the basics. Good, solid gloves are a must, you're working with seemingly dull jar lids, but they'll slice right through gloves. Get some good ones, or you'll end up owning several pairs with slices in them rendering them effectively useless IMO.

For masks, I've tried the free ones you get from the hospital and compared to the expensive painters dusk masks of the same build but much better quality. I used my electronic cigarette to take in a mouthful of vapor - covered my mouth snugly with each mask (one at a time) and exhaled. The results were easily apparent as the one I paid for only allowed a small amount of vapor out through my chin whereas the other was expelling vapor out the entire perimeter of the mask. I do have a gas mask, but I've not found a problem using my dust masks repeatedly over and over.

>anything else?

Might be able to include this in the dehydrator section, but 'Dririte'/'Damprid' or any similar product would be a good idea. Here's a link to amazon.

I personally use silica packets for storage, you could make your own with these or build a simple decanter using a bowl with a lid, a rack to elevate the fruits above the crystals in the bowl, and 24 hours.

u/itsamodelthreeeee · 4 pointsr/TeslaLounge

Thank you!! Absolutely, here's the video that we watched and followed very closely: https://youtu.be/H9xn066qfKo

Some notes:

  1. Must clean the calipers of all the dirt and grime from the road with this:

    CRC 05089 BRAKLEEN Brake Parts Cleaner - Non-Flammable -19 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDR9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fbdvDbZNSKSJG

  2. Then, take a gritty sandpaper and polish the caliper so it's a smooth surface. Don't overdo it but just enough so the paint has an even surface to adhere to.

    120 Grit Dry Wet Sandpaper Sheets by LotFancy, 9 x 3.6", Silicon Carbide, Pack of 45 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WV8PN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NfdvDbPYQJ1VG

  3. The paint is awesome but do thin layers and let it dry before doing the next coat. Took about 3-4 coats for full opacity. The paint gets thick and a little goopy (which is a good thing) sobog recommendation is to practice on another car's caliper first if possible or practice painting a can so you have a feel for how the paint moves and settles.

  4. I used 3 brushes: a large flexible soft paint brush, grabbed two eye shadow brushes to get into the nook and crannies. If you or wife/partner is into makeup, there should be an unused brush stash you could use. If not, grab these at Target, they are exactly $1.

    A. Good for the holes in the caliper and very tight spots (I painted almost all the way to the back of the caliper to make sure it looked red at every possible angle).

    Check out this item at Target https://www.target.com/p/e-l-f-blending-eye-brush/-/A-14653397

    B. A stiffer brush for the verrrrry tight spots where the caliper meets the brake pad and you do NOT want to have Shakey hands and get anything near those pads.

    Check out this item at Target https://www.target.com/p/e-l-f-concealer-brush/-/A-13958833

    C. For extra measure when you are doing touch up in those tight spots (this one is $3):

    Check out this item at Target https://www.target.com/p/e-l-f-angled-eyeliner-brush/-/A-13586153

  5. We did this project in one day, it took a good 7 hours counting in the time it took to get each one of Lord Commander's tires off one by one, carefully painting, carefully getting the tires back on then slooowly driving him back into the garage.

  6. Do not drive for a good 24 painful hours to make sure the paint is dry.

  7. Get these heat resistant stickers to apply after the paint it dry (so you'll have to take the tires off all over again unless you have a place to suspend your baby car for 2 days). You'll have some leftover and you can Teslafy anything you want. We did a quick wipe down off the already painted calipers to make sure the stickers went on clean.


  8. Labor of love is an understatement but it gets easier with each caliper. You'll have a ton of paint leftover for future touchups but we've had no problems since doing this 3 months ago with both paint and logo. Take breaks because it's borderline back breaking!

  9. You can spray paint also as seen here

    My husband didn't want to do this method because prep looked much more intense and he'd figure I wouldn't mind a painting project on a cloudy Saturday afternoon.

    If you are in my state, I'd be happy to help. I'm new to reddit so not sure how to do the direct messages but let me know! Hope this helps! Please don't hesitate to ask questions when you start this. 150% worth the effort. It's beautiful and the Tesla service man honestly thought our SR+ was a P3. Even after pulling up the computer to look at the specs, he kept saying,"You're so lucky to have a performance!". I didn't have the heart to tell him it wasn't. Best of luck!!!
u/E580BAEDA44A · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice



The front caliper piston on most vehicles do move in and out, but the back piston generally needs to threaded back in, and would need a tool.

A generic clamp of any kind is fine for retracting a push-in piston, you just need to be slow and patient with it. Don't crank the clamp all at once, turn it about 1/8th of a turn and wait 20 seconds, and again. Make sure to use something which won't harm the piston face; Wood works well. Make sure the clamp is straight and the piston is going back in straight.

If rust is an issue in your area get some penetrant like PB Blaster or something and try to get the bolts soaking before it's time for the repair, if possible.

Make sure you have the proper lubricants, and the proper grease for the slider pins. Lube the piston mating surface(s) and the ears of the pads with a film of quality ceramic/synthetic brake grease. Not a GLOB, a film.

Make sure to clean up the shims and replace them if they are at all damaged or deformed. A film of grease where the shims mate to the caliper bracket is a good idea as well.

Be sure to avoid getting the grease/lube on any braking/friction surfaces such as the rotor or pad faces. Rotors can be cleaned with a rag and brake clean.

Make sure the tattle-tale, if present, is going in the correct direction. Make sure the pads are mounted properly. Try to reference the pads your removing first.

If you're replacing Rotors and/or replacing pads with a different compound, you should follow a "bed in procedure." A general bed-in is a few very light brakes from low speed like stop and go traffic, a few stops from 10-20 mph sort of riding the brakes holding them till you roll to a stop, and then one or two good "emergency stops" with a firm foot planted from 20-30mph. This will help ensure that friction material is transferred into the rotor surface which helps ensure proper stopping power.

I hope this helps.

u/GothamCountySheriff · 1 pointr/vinyl

The problem could be one of two fairly easy to fix issues. It may be dirty adjustment knobs/switches or the belt may be worn out. The solution is to clean the knobs/switches and/or replace the belt.

To clean the knobs/switches you will need a quality electronics cleaner such as Caigs DeOxit or CRC QD Electronics cleaner. I find Caigs to work better, but CRC products are good as well. After cleaning, you should lube the connection with Caigs Deoxit Fader Lube or CRC Lubricant. Links for reference:





The first step is to clean the pitch adjustment pots. I do not have a Technics SL-23, but the pitch adjustment knobs on many tables can be removed by pulling up on them. Once removed you should be able to see the actual mechanics of the pot. Spray a couple shots of cleaner into the pot and let it soak in for a few seconds. Then twist the pot through the full rotation, from far left to far right. Do this several dozen times. Repeat for the second pot. After you do that, spray a shot of lubricant into each one and work the pot several more dozen times. Let it sit for a couple of minutes and then plug it in and try it out. If it solves your speed problem then you've found your solution.

The adjustment lever may be an electrical switch or may be a mechanical level. If it's the former, it might just need to be cleaned as above. If it's the later, it may have grease that has solidified with time and needs to be cleaned off and relubed with white lithium grease. In order to do that you will probably need to open the turntable up from the bottom and disassemble the selector mechanism to clean it.

If cleaning the pots and/or lever doesn't solve your problem, then it may be the belt has worn out. Replacement belts can be ordered and are easy to replace.

If none of that solves your problem, then the issue is probably more serious. It could be the spindle and bearing need to be cleaned and relubed. It could be that some of the capacitors in the electrical section have gone out of spec and need to be replaced. It could be the belt pulley motor is dying.

What you will need to decide is how much energy and effort you want to put into this table. If you are handy and enjoy fixing things, this might be a fun project. If you don't find that kind of thing appealing, it may be best to return the table and try to find one in better condition, or something new.

See vinylengine.com for the user and service manuals:


u/TophatMcMonocle · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Glad to assist. I'm a tremendous fan of the suspended Pioneers of that specific vintage, and have two PL-630s and a PL-600 in my turntable collection that I've restored as needed. I don't sign up for that kind of work without feeling some love for the design.

Once you're at a level of turntable that precludes obvious audible misbehaviors, like unsteady speed, noisy drives, or insufficient weight and deadness to combat vibration feedback, then probably 95% of the sound you get will be cartridge dependent. Switch your carts and the Pioneer will be the warmer one.

Failure of the tonearm to move and a whirring sound from the small motor = bad tonearm belt. Sometimes it'll just be sluggish or it'll squeal, but the fix is the same.

This is the cleaner you need. The one you linked was a cleaning solution, but this is a contact cleaner. (Less diluted.)
I fixed my stuck button by simply unplugging the deck and spraying in the tiny gaps around the button, and working it over and over until it freed up. I had to pry it up at first until the DeoxIT started doing its thing. In my experience it's a fix that'll last for many years. If that doesn't do it, there are people over at Audiokarma.com who've disassembled the buttons, and a strong search will take you to that topic. I can help you get there, because if there's anything restoring turntables has taught me, it's how to search the shit out of Audio Karma and Vinyl Engine for those who've been there before.

Any electronics repair shop with an old experienced guy is a good bet. It would take some calling around and perhaps a half-day drive. There aren't many turntable repair shops left, if any. If you're handy and can wield a soldering iron when the chips are down, I'll bet you can fix it. I did my first TT restoration with nothing but basic auto mechanic experience and I got through it. If you enjoy this sort of thing, you'll find working on the Pioneer rewarding due to the quality and cleverness of the design. It will quickly become apparent why it sold for twice the money of the Dual. The $400 it cost then is $1200 in today's money, and that was a mass production price. Aluminum plinth with no plastic in sight. Booyaaa.

If the platter and armboard move at all, your transit screws have been removed. The Japanese used short suspension travel, whereas the Brits and the Germans favored Baja trophy truck suspension. All that matters is that it is truly suspended during normal use, and not up against either the high or low limits. If it is, it can be adjusted.

u/HalifaxSamuels · 2 pointsr/oneplus

You could always attempt to fix it yourself. Here's two methods to basically try the same thing; the thorough and proper method, and then quick and dirty (and easier) method. No promising this will definitely fix it, but it's what I would do first in your case.

If you're comfortable disassembling the phone (iFixit has great disassembly guides) you could always take the switch out and thoroughly clean it with something like this by basically spraying in in to the switch, switching it all the way up and down a number of times, and repeating that two-step a few more times. Give it a little blast of compressed air to help it dry (that stuff already dries fast but may as well help it out) and reinstall it once it's dry. If you dropped it in water there's likely some residue in the switch that's shorting it in one position.

Optional method if you really don't want to take it apart: take a few minutes and just slide the switch all the way up and down a whole lot. If there's residue it might scrape it clean. Both of these processes are assuming the contacts inside the switch aren't corroded, in which case it definitely would have to be replaced.

u/bongklute · 2 pointsr/audiorepair

deoxit. all the knobs, sliders, switches, etc.

clean out the inside of the machine. use a paintbrush / toothbrush to get the dust that has settled close to the boards. be gentle, take your time.

while you're digging into those two things, hopefully you'll get a better look at the caps, or if anything is notably burnt. that hiss could be a few different things, but luckily there isn't too much complexity inside there.

that's a great unit, i wish you the best of luck.

u/MrBlankenshipESQ · 3 pointsr/modeltrains

> Hey thanks for answering!

No prob!

> I had no idea DC trains shouldn’t run on DCC, TIL!

Yah. The DCC signal more resembles AC than it does DC. Square wave, not sine wave, and the frequency weeble-wobbles all over the place to transmit the data. It's a bit of an oddball signal, really, because it's trying to pass data along and pass actual power along at the same time. There's also a rather surprising amount of current on tap, moreso than the typical DC pack will provide. My command station puts out ~1.3 amps but I can fit boosters to it that go up to 8 amps each.

> How should I clean the tracks?

Ask a thousand modellers, get a thousand responses. I've had excellent luck rescuing filthy tracks with a lint-free shop cloth and this stuff. I'll spray it onto the cloth, then wipe that along the railheads. Dose a snazzy job of gettin' the schmoo off and dries super quick so no slippery residue is left behind. You might also want to look into a bright boy, given how long your tracks have sat, because while the cleaner I use is great at getting dirt off the railheads it won't really touch actual corrosion. For that, an abrasive will be necessary.

> And what exactly are fish plates? It is mostly peco track.

Fishplates...rail joiners...fiddly little bastards that stab the fuck out of your fingers as you work on your track...they have many names, but they're all pretty cheap and it won't hurt to replace them. Make sure you grab a pair that have wires attached if you already have a pair like that, those'll need replacing too for the same reason.

u/Search11 · 2 pointsr/intel

Valid concerns but trust me it’s a breeze to do. Given how hot your CPU gets you will benefit from a proper delid. Granted though you are still within safe temps. The temps are highish but they aren’t abnormal compared to most others. Higher temps do lessen the life of the CPU but we are talking a very small time span compared to the market life of the chip. I’d say you and 99% of all PC builders will have build a second or even third computer before silicone degradation even reaches minimal levels. If that makes sense. Yeah high temps kill it but it’s like saying the three cigarettes you smoked in high school took two minutes off your life when you live to be a hundred anyway. Analogy might be to the extreme but I wouldn’t worry about it.

With that said here’s some links that will help you.

Delid tool and re attachment tool:


Plastic razor blades to remove stock glue (what you mentioned not knowing what to do with, yes remove it the easiest way I’ve done it was using these and a small amount of isopropyl alcohol):


Silicone “glue” for IHS re attachment. To be honest the very first delid I did was a 3570k using wood a vice and a hammer and I didn’t reglue it. It’s still alive too. I would personally just use a very small amount on the four corners. Just enough to stick. You are correct in your concern about the stock glue causing the IHS to not make perfect contact with the die. Remove the stock crap and use minimal amount of this and it will be a non concern:


Lastly, your liquid metal for the die to IHS and your TIM for the IHS to Kraken. You can use any but it’s probably safe to say Grizzly is currently the go to stuff:



All in all it’s easy and it’s worth it. If you have any questions whatsoever message me or reply here. There are some good videos of walkthroughs (I think one really good one is on rockitcool’s website but I’m not sure). I can find them for you but tomorrow as I’m currently in bed and using a half open eye lid to write this.

u/water_mellonz · 1 pointr/Gameboy

Make sure you're not suffering from a combo-problem:


I clean switches by doing a combination of sandpaper and electronics spray cleaner. I found the WD-40 electronics cleaner spray to be hands-down better than CRC Quick Cleaner spray. But neither one would remove corrosion from inside the switch itself. The sandpaper (facing upwards) did remove both the green battery leakage crap and the brownish corrosion from inside the switch. I slid the sandpaper in and then sprayed the electronics contact spray on. Be careful not to leave any paper shards get loose from the sandpaper itself. Just move it straight back and forth without angling. Keeping it at a simple 90° angle from the face of the power switch itself will save it from tearing off at the edges.


Check and clean the battery contacts in the battery compartment. Even after cleaning the switch a bunch, the on/off flickering continued. It was a crudded battery contact that was making it happen.


The GBA unit I was working on looked brand new on the outside. The inside had battery leakage on both sides of the battery compartment. Funny how the battery compartment itself was sparkling clean. There's not much you can do when buying electronic units online, especially when a previous owner somewhere in its lifespan wanted to move the unit down the line from themselves. But after many hours of steady work, the light is solid as a rock and doesn't flicker one iota when touching any part of the power switch.


edit: also want to mention that the unit I was talking about above did not have any power or lights at all when I first received it. It took a long time to get it to start flickering a small amount of red light. Then the green light started to flicker at times, too, when moving the switch back and forth rapidly. I had to repeatedly disassemble, clean, partially reassemble, put in batteries and flick the switch a bunch.... just to try and get a sign of life out of the thing. Up until yesterday morning, I would've sworn on a stack of H.P. Lovecraft novels that the motherboard was blown. But I had some time last night and decided to play around with different cleaning methods. So glad that I did.

u/unicornloops · 1 pointr/prusa3d

I believe that grease is actually ideal for bearings over oil in terms of longevity of the application and I was recommended some superlube synthetic PTFE grease. It’s pretty cheap on amazon and there are printable bearing packers on thingiverse you can use to get it all the way in the races. (Just noticed you said you didn’t have access to it!)

I actually didn’t have grease when I built it so I used some synthetic PTFE oil on the rods and that has seemed to be fine. From the good article below, the important thing is that you don’t apply different (synthetic vs. non-synthetic) lubricants at the same time. Hence ideally you degrease the oil they are shipped in with isopropanol before applying more oil/grease. However, I read that the shipping oil is synthetic so I just applied the synthetic PTFE oil to the rods without de-greasing. I am just about to tear down and revise the bearings with grease the proper way myself actually.

So bottom line is that if your oil with PTFE is synthetic you can just apply it directly, but the ideal would be to de-grease and then apply grease of your choice.

Here’s a great resource (though the link is borked with the new prusa site—google “set your bearings straight” and it’s the first one that comes up): https://prusacommunity.com/set-your-bearing-straight/

And the superlube: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7yCWCb21H21WM

Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328377

u/Moeparker · 2 pointsr/FixMyPrint

To repair models I use:


Now I just tried that on the HelmetFull and it did not fix the gaps. That's just missing parts of the model.

For gaps like that I'd use the spot putty.

I use that to fill in the big gaps. Then spray on primer, sand, spray again, etc. The way I finish my parts is as follows:

I fill holes, then spray primer, 3 coats. 120 grit sandpaper over all of it, pretty good pressure.

Then 2 more coats after I dust it off. Then medium pressure sanding with 220 grit sandpaper.

Then 2 more coats with medium pressure sanding using 320 or 400 grit sandpaper.

1 more coat, then light sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper. By the time I'm done my 3D prints are smooth as glass.

Far as the model itself, I used Rhino 3D to model and looks like it's easy to grab each piece and "export selected" as it's own file.

If you wanted to you can get a 90 day free trial of Rhino 3D from their website. Full version for 3 months, free. That's how I was able to play with it and decide it's the software i wanted.

I might be able to save all those armor pieces as individual pieces. Seems fast enough. ...ok yeah it was.


That SHOULD be a google drive shared folder. idk, never used it before.

31 items, should be all the armor pieces from neck to toes.

Good luck

u/rajlego · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

I used artic mx4 too, seems to be working well, might want to get some thermal paste remover too to get the factory stuff they use off. Make sure to post what Lenovo says for your country too so other people can have another reference on this, the entire viability of repasting is going on the word of just one lenovo support person so far.

XTU does indeed work perfectly, not sure how they decide what laptops it works on. Being able to use it to undervolt is super useful though I haven't figured out how to get a persistent profile working.

It only works for the CPU though, I have no clue how you would undervolt or downclock the GPU though I'd be quite interested in knowing as well.

I'm so grateful for pop os, I wish there was a way for me to donate money to them without having to buy a system76 laptop, where did you see the info on nvidia optimus? That would be useful, till now I've just consoled myself with knowing that if I wanted to do something with the GPU I'd just restart into windows anyways generally.

u/Hackinator · 9 pointsr/subaru

How about some stuff other than bling like a Group N pitch rod: https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1477

Or perhaps some nice Sankei 555 ball joints: http://www.42autosports.com/Sankei-555-Front-Ball-Joints--Subaru_p_258.html

A set of fender braces: http://www.paranoidfabrications.com/shop/2008-super-sweet-cowl-stays-aka-fender-braces/

Crazy idea here but an extended timing belt guide: http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/product/tom-191263-tomei-timing-belt-guide?ymm=2003-subaru-impreza-wrx-2-0

Some hella sweet DOT4 brake fluid: http://www.amazon.com/ATE-706202-Original-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003VXRPL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449629716&sr=8-1&keywords=ate+type+200+brake+fluid

Waterless coolant: http://www.amazon.com/Evans-Cooling-Systems-EC53001-Performance/dp/B00TPVI2TQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449629782&sr=8-1&keywords=Waterless+coolant

I can go on. I guess the point I'm making is a person could buy a car girl or guy something for under 60 dollars that could make their vehicle better. Not hating on the coasters or tie or cups, different people like different things. I'd just rather spend my money on gifts to my close car friends that will make their driving experiences and cars better than give them a Subaru pint glass.

Edit: words

u/LovingShmups · 4 pointsr/consolerepair

Best move here is to use special electrical contacts oil.
I'm living in Europe, so I'm using a European brand (actually French...)
: http://www.kfsolution.fr/kf/KFproductdetail.csp?division=&product=F%202%20SPECIAL%20CONTACTS&ilang=fr&plang=fr

You have different brands in USA, like this one :


Most of the time, it will cost you 15 USD / EUR (without transport).
You could find those special electrical contacts oils in a good electronic component shop, if you live a big city.
I have one bottle for now 8 years so you can use a bottle for many years !!
Believe me : it changed a lot of things for me :
N64 cartridge working again, unrecognised joypad on PSX... recognized, boring USB key.. working again, etc.
On your picture, your cartridge isn't clean !
Take a q tip, put some special oil on it and.... clean. do this with 2 Q tips for a good measure.

Spray some oil on your 62Pins Slot, inside the SNES , and you are good to go.
Except for the battery, cartridges can last practically forever....

u/blatant-disregard · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Here's what comes to my mind.

The big ones:



Mega Hobby

Lucky Model (Hong Kong)

HobbyLink Japan (Japan)

Hannants (UK)

Smaller shops:

MidTenn hobbies

Roll Models

Great Models

and since you are looking for tools specifically, I'll add

Micro-Mark (pricey, but WOW)

I'm not going to plug any of the listed sites other than to say I have ordered from every one at least once and have had no bad experiences with any of them. As for pricing, sorry to have to tell you but there's no single answer to that one. Prices vary widely between shops and depending on the item you are looking for. Normally the best thing to do is to just shop around.

I'd say to just head to Squadron and get what you need (to browse, just go to Search and hit the Type pulldown). Even if they aren't the cheapest on some stuff, it's not going to be that much of a difference, especially on supplies. Plus their shipping is reasonable and you'll then be on their mailing list which will net you a nice flyer/catalog in your mailbox every month that's great bathroom reading material.

Putty & sandpaper: go to a local shop that sells auto-body supplies (Even something like Autozone will do in a pinch). Get a tube of Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty (or you can apparently save $131,069.71 on it at Amazon, WTF?). That one tube will last you for years. You can also typically get sheets of wet-or-dry sandpaper down to around 10000 grit (in the good places).

Lastly, if you have a decent flea-market near you, head on over there and look for the folks selling used dental tools. You can find all kinds of useful implements digging through their stuff: scribers, scalpels, tweezers, tiny spatulas (for putty), and much more.


u/ohwowgee · 2 pointsr/1022

Small gun related tip.

Loctite is your BEST friend. Anything that unscrews, or loosens with a thread on it, should get a small dab. Purple is lighter than Blue (Red is the strongest). If you're worried about the strength of the screw head, use Purple.

http://amzn.com/B0002UEMZ2 \ http://amzn.com/B0002KKTT0

Use screwdrivers that are "hollow ground". Meaning, for a flat bit, they should not be shaped like normal screwdrivers. A normal screwdriver actually usually looks more like a wedge than an straight block being inserted into the screw head. Here's a nice picture:


You don't have to run out and buy fancy screwdrivers. Grab a metal file, and carefully file the sides of a cheap bit so it is more square. Keeps your screws pretty.

Last bit of advice, Dremels work really REALLY quick. Be careful!

You can put a trigger stop yourself if you'd like, that will reduce the overtravel. Check this out:

Have fun, stay safe!

u/7206vxr · 4 pointsr/S2000

What year and how many miles? For brake pads I use Hawk HPS and use ATE BLUE brake fluid:

u/Thanhtacles · 2 pointsr/Nerf

White lithium grease wont kill your orings, but many claim that it's a rather thick and stiff lube, thus not being optimal for plunger systems. For any other application it's fine. YMMV, but I generally also dislike it for this reason.

SuperLube synthetic grease is a favorite. Sticks well, great application range, durable. It's thinner than WL, but if it's too thick, my little trick to making it looser is to add a little bit of silicon oil and give it a good mix before applying it. Silicon oil btw is the grease you'll notice when you first open up your blasters; I found out when I emailed buzzbee and hasbro asking for what they use. It's very slick, and very thin. I find making use of both resulted in best of both worlds.

u/Kariko83 · 17 pointsr/3Dprinting

If you enjoy tinkering then the Folger Tech i3 2020 is a pretty good printer and you can read my review of it here.

Get some Super Lube or other appropriate grease to pack the bearings with so that they don't fail on you like mine eventually did.

You will want to get a good set of metric hex keys as the vast majority of the screws are metric hex heads.

A soldering iron, 16g or better primary wire, and some solder are also a must as you will have to solder the leads to the heated bed so it can be connected to the RAMPS board.

Personally if I was to go back and build mine again I would toss the Mk2 heater PCB and use a Mk3 aluminum heated bed with a sheet of PEI on top from the start. It would have saved me both money and time troubleshooting both adhesion issues and the majorly warped heater PCB.

If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.

u/Unusual_Steak · 3 pointsr/MTB

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers

Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease


Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

u/_thirdeyeopener_ · 5 pointsr/projectcar

Couple things to check that I can think of. Check all of your fuses. Disconnect the battery, then go ahead and just replace them all, they're probably all ancient anyway. Make sure to replace with correct amperage fuses. Check for corrosion on the contacts while you're at it. Clean with contact cleaner and wire brush/emery cloth.

The brake light switch on my '62 was a pressure switch mounted on the brake Master Cylinder, '61s are the same. It's ten bucks from rockauto and wouldn't hurt to replace it, since it's 56 years old.

But the main thing I would look at is the bulkhead connector that goes from the fuse block under the driverside of the dash through the firewall into the engine compartment. My car had some weird electrical gremlins that were intermittent and super annoying. That bulkhead connector is hiding under the Master Cylinder and is held in place with a single bolt. Disconnect the battery to be safe, disconnect that bulkhead connector and inspect the contacts. Mine were corroded bad enough to cause my issues. If yours are corroded, spend some time cleaning both ends of the connector with contact cleaner and a wire brush/emery cloth. When you bolt it back together and it still seems loose (like mine did), pull the bolt out and put a small washer or two on it to help keep the connector tight.

If none of this helps, you might have a bad ground somewhere which will be more a bitch to fix since you'll have to start chasing down grounds to make sure they're all still connected and not corroded. And as has already been mentioned, check and replace all the bulbs. Relatively cheap and probably should be replaced anyway.

All that being said, invest in a Shop Manual for your car. They are worth every penny! Those old books are like the Big Bible o' Buick and will show you how to diagnose, repair and replace almost every part of your car. I highly recommend that anyone with an old car find the one they need and buy it immediately, you'll be glad you did. It will also include highly detailed wiring diagrams ;)

Lastly, sign up on www.v8buick.com, the single best and most comprehensive Buick messageboard on the interwebs. It's always active, the folks are nice and helpful, tons of info and a large classified section. I highly recommend it.

u/tealplum · 2 pointsr/Audi

The EGR system is just a bunch of hoses. Look at the diagram on this page and check those hoses for brittleness, leaks, or cracks. Also check the check valves. Over time they can look like they are almost melting? It's hard to explain, but if you know what they are you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it. There's also an "L" shaped plastic hose that comes out of the crankcase. Check it. It has a tendency to explode. Not a big deal if it does, you just lost HP and MPG til it's fixed. Oh and you leak oil.

Look at this preventative maintenance guide that a guy on the Audi forums posted. Read through each of them to learn about the car and check for them while inspecting.

If you are into DIY stuff, check the [Audi DIY] (http://www.audidiy.com/b6a4.html) site. If you can't find it, google it. There's probably a writeup somewhere.


  • If you drive with a heavy foot you'll get around 18 MPG. Drive nicely and you can get 25 or so.

  • Never put anything less than 91 octane fuel in it. If you absolutely must, go into the store and buy octane booster.

  • Always use synthetic oil, and make sure you buy the larger filter. WIX makes a decent one for a good price. Also make sure you use the right type of oil. I used Royal Purple for a year until I got some pretty bad sludge. Yeah it's not on the list. Oils on the list have addatives that mitigate engine sludging.

  • Buy yourself some lithium grease and use it on your door hinges and sunroof each time you change your oil. The doors get squeaky and the sunroof can get choppy.

  • The turbo on the 1.8t is too small. It takes longer to cool down so if you drive like a maniac and turn it off it's going to cook your oil into sludge. Drive nicely once you're close to your destination and give the car 30 seconds to cool down. Or buy a turbo timer.

  • Buy a seat cover. If the seat isn't ripped yet it will be.

    This car will cost you more money than you want in repairs and maintenance. If you like to DIY it's not too bad. I saved 700 dollars doing my own timing belt+water pump+ tensioners. I still spent 500 between tools and parts but the DIY made it cheaper.

    That's all I can remember from my first post. If I remember anything else I'll add it in a new comment.
u/radiance89 · 1 pointr/Gameboy

The main worry with rubbing alcohol would be water content. I would not try to work 70% alcohol into the switch. Higher alcohol content is more likely to dry out perfectly in a tight space like that.

Electrical contact cleaner is nice because the pressurized bottle will be easier to spray into the switch than alcohol. You can try alcohol, but definitely be sure to use some compressed air and be confident that you have completely dried out everything before applying power.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BXOGNI/ is the electronics cleaner I personally like using.

u/b_lett · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Maybe it's just an exception what happened for me, but the electrical contact cleaner I used left a little bit of a sticky residue, so it's possible it did not dry properly after ending up on the pins.


I used the same contact cleaner consistently recommended here, and I can't say it evaporates completely as suggested. On the back it even says "Allow to dry thoroughly and vent before reactivating. Product may collect and pool in unseen areas."

I worked a few years in electronic retail and tech support, and have an IT certification, so I promise I've tried to do my research in troubleshooting my own issues. I've heard of the tape method, and read about replacing the plastic latches with metal latches at the top; but in my case, I do believe I needed more than anything to clean the pins. Any combination of these can only help.

u/aftli · 1 pointr/CableManagement

Also, a few more things since I'm just sitting around anyway :)

  • You might want to consider removing the HDD cage for better airflow. You can buy a cheap and simple bracket to mount the HDD in the top 5.25" bays. Added bonus is you won't have that extra length of wire running all the way down from the optical drive to the HDD.
  • I don't see it in your case, but in your parts list you listed a Noctua NF-F12 fan. This fan is meant for high static pressure (like in liquid cooled setups), and may not really be right for you. Check out Noctua's page on the matter. The NF-S12A may be better for your push-pull configuration.
  • It's hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like you've bunched up the PCI-E power connectors in the front of the case just before the GPU. It could look better if you bunched them up in the back instead!
u/jamiehofer · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Honestly as long as you purchase the aluminum Y-axis plate and use spacers alongside my Z-axis bed leveler you will get just as nice results. If you have a wood Y-axis plate you may not want to use spacers and possibly look into auto bed leveling solution.

I use something like this for lubricant: http://amzn.com/B000XBH9HI

As for the spacers I use aluminum spacers that are (I think) 1/4" OD 1/4" Length >3mm ID. Aluminum while the difference is most likely very little, it still is slightly better. I just would recomend going to a hardware store and finding spacers with an OD of 1/4" and length of 1/4" the ID does not matter as long as you can fit a 3mm bolt through it. Best to find something with a somewhat thick wall.

u/ThaGerm1158 · 2 pointsr/subaru

You're getting ripped off at $2000, so $3,000 is astronomical.

My local subaru shop "not a dealer" does HG replacements starting at $900. There are often a few extra parts needed, so it can go up to $1,300, but that isn't often. They do great work and specialize in Subaru... I'm sure there is a similar shop in your area

With a new HG and some Subaru Coolant System Conditioner it should run 200,000 MORE miles.

Honestly, if you picked up a Subie with 78K for less than $3k, boy did you score... It's totally worth the REASONABLE HG replacement.

u/TimesFather · 1 pointr/Gameboy

I'm assuming you're trying to clean the PCB. That shiny coating is an electrical varnish; a sealant to protect the board, mainly the circuit traces. Any type of Isopropanol (Isopropyl Alcohol, Acetone, etc.) will strip that varnish. What you'll want to use is Contact Cleaner (here). It's as simple as spraying down the PCB lightly with the cleaner, and then taking a non-abrasive brush to work it around and remove the dirt/oil/dust. Once you're satisfied, wipe down the PCB with a clean microfiber cloth. Good luck!

u/kenabi · 7 pointsr/hardware

white lithium grease.

ps; most gun oils are just normal machine oils with a couple of additives. alright for what they sell them as, but in this case you want something that will stick to the bits. WLG is the stuff they use on the moving bits of flight sticks from the factory, as well as stuff like the moving parts in any optical drive, some childrens toys where the lubrication will never be exposed to the light of day, etc.

something like this used sparingly, but with full coverage of the contact surfaces, will sort things out nicely.


u/kcpwnsgman · 1 pointr/GunPorn

No problem. You'll probably be cleaning lint etc mostly from it if you plan to carry it around. I tend to go a little overboard when I clean my guns, but I typically don't clean my rifles/shotguns all that frequently and will go between multiple thousands of rounds before I do.

When I clean my guns I use a mat like this to absorb oils etc and this to get all of the black carbon out of it. I use these to clean the bore/inside of the barrel. I use these and these for the hard to reach places that still have something building up on them.

When you're done cleaning everything, you'll want to make sure you put oil/grease on all the components that come in contact with other parts. Basically if it rolls oil it, if it slides grease it. I use this on the slide/rails where they contact each other and use this in most other places. Then I'll wipe down the exterior with this.

Really all you have to make sure you do is get most of the debris out of the gun, and make sure you have oil on surfaces that create friction or need some kind of rust preventative coating.

u/Addy711 · 1 pointr/simracing

My CSL Elite throttle also started getting jittery/spikey after a year of use. I got some some DeoxIT D5 and that completely fixed it. Also picked up some ‘reel butter’ for the gears, seems like a good safe lubricant for plastic and was pretty cheap.

A touch-less sensor would be ideal but the potentiometer should be better shrouded or sealed. It's fairly exposed but at least it's easy access to service.

With loadcell I prefer them over the t3pa pros as well

u/burkholderia · 3 pointsr/Bass

A few that have come up a couple times

Radio interference

Radio in amps is a common problem, especially if you're near a transmitter.
First thing you want to do is rule out pieces of gear that aren't contributing to the problem. If the instrument isn't shielded you can have issues there, try another bass if possible.

If the shielding on your instrument cable is breaking down this can cause problem, try another cable if you can.

If you are using any pedals start with none and add them in one at a time until you get the issue to reoccur. If the problem is a pedal, you can solder a treble bleed cap across the hot/ground connections on the output jack of that pedal, use something like a 5 or 10pf and it should only filter off the very very high frequencies (like radio frequency).
If the issue is before the amp you can try a ferrite bead on the end of the cable before the amp. I tried this once and it didn't work for me, but it's a common recommendation.

If it is definitely the amp there are a few things you can try. The small cap trick I mentioned above for the pedal can work if you do it across the terminals of the input jack on the amp. If the amp is a tube amp make sure that there is a tube shield on the first gain stage. Check to see if there are grid stopper resistors on the first gain stage, you can change the value of the resistors to lower the frequency cutoff.

If there is no grid stopper and you want to add one, you can calculate what resistor to use. R = 1/ (2 PI f C). C is the input capacitance of the tube in farads, f is the low pass cutoff frequency in Hz, PI is constant 3.14, R is in ohms. The input capacitance C = CGK + (CGA A) where A is the voltage gain of the stage, CGK is the grid-to-cathode capacitance and CGA is the grid-to-anode capacitance of the tube. The latter two values are found in the tube's data sheet. For a 12AX7 with a gain stage designed with A to be 60, C is about 103 pF. Let's say you want to cut off everything above 20 kHz. R = 1/(2 3.14 20000 103 10^-12), which is about 80 K ohms.

Some amps just have an issue with internal wiring layout, you can try to move wires around to limit noise, but it can be tricky and dangerous because you have to have the amp open and on.

Don't poke around inside an amp unless you know what you're doing. Some of these things will likely need to be done by a tech.


The easiest thing to try is moving your setup to another room or another position in the room to rule out sympathetic vibrations. If you've ruled out room issues check all the mounting screws on the speaker/cabinet and your amp. Check to see if the vibration is frequency specific (does it happen at octaves of different notes) or if it only occurs at low frequencies. With a frequency specific vibration you issue is something resonating and once you can find the problematic component you can try to alleviate that issue. If the rattle is only caused by high levels of low frequency and not specific to a frequency then it could simply be a loose panel or bad seal around the speaker or jack plates. Check the speaker mounting seal, it should be tight against the baffle. If needed you can add some gasket tape to ensure a good seal.


There is a fantastic primer on tubes available on the Talkbass Portaflex Wiki that covers all of this in far greater detail, but for some basic troubleshooting there are a few things that are worth mentioning.

With any tube amp, the tubes are the primary suspect for weird noises and other issues. They're more likely to have issues than other passive and mechanical components. It's always a good idea to keep a known good spare of each type of preamp tube in your amp available for troubleshooting purposes. Preamp tubes in general can last many years to decades in most amps, but a good place to start if you suspect that you have tube issues is replacing the first gain stage (V1) of the amplifier. From there try swapping tubes one at a time until you reach the power tubes. If this has not solved your problem there may be an issue with a mechanical component (pots, jacks, switches) or a failing passive component (caps, resistors, etc). If the amp blows a fuse, especially a high voltage (often labeled HT) fuse, the usual suspect is failing power tubes. Swapping the tubes can be a good first step, but fuses blow for a reason and the amp should be checked over by a tech. If a power tube fails suddenly it can damage the screen, plate, or cathode resistors and simply replacing the tube with a new tube would put that new tube at risk for similar failure. In general, if the amp has a tube power section and has started to sound bland or has issues with the power dropping off you should check and possibly replace the power tubes.

Scratchy/static noise

A simple starting point for any kind of static noise is to check for loose jacks or bad cables. Frequently this kind of noise is due to bad or dirty contacts. A product like Deoxit in combination with a small brush or swab is good for cleaning contacts and connections. You can go simple and spray some onto a jack and use a 1/4" plug to run across the contact surface a few times, but a more thorough cleaning is better. With scratchy pots you can spray deoxit/contact cleaner into the mechanism and move the pot a few (hundred) times to clean the contact surface. If this fails to address the issue you may need to replace the pot. If the amp has an effects loop or speaker output that is unused these contacts can get dirty from time to time and a cleaning may be beneficial.

u/cronson · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

> Compaq Presario CQ5320Y

Ok, perfect. So your motherboard is a M2N68-LA. Here's the page I just looked at to find out this.

Per the HP site, that board supports up to 95 watt CPUs which means the Phenom II X6 1065T is the best CPU for your motherboard. You can probably (I'm 99% sure) put 2 8GB sticks of PC3-10600 (DDR3-1333) RAM in there as well.

But to your other questions. For installing a new CPU, or just cleaning an old one, I like this product. And this is my go to thermal paste. Lastly, just to dust a computer, I use canned compressed air. I think most of us on here do. Also, I personally will wipe down almost any part of my case with windex and a paper towel. Obviously don't get windex on any electrical component, and if you do, let it fully dry.

u/stu2211 · 3 pointsr/projectcar

This might help in giving you some direction, though I'm not sure if it's exactly what you're looking for: http://www.amazon.com/Bondo-280-Bumper-Repair-Syringe/dp/B0046VN8JO/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1373148270&sr=1-1&keywords=bumper+repair+kit

The mesh is used as the backing to reinforce the split, the epoxy is basically used like bondo for plastics, sandable with low grit sandpaper.

I used it when I removed some emblems on my rear bumper and needed to fill in the holes, it worked perfectly. The bumper itself was pretty messed up, with random marks and divets where other drivers have gone into the rear, license plate first. The epoxy worked great as a filler, I was able to restore the shape and make it smooth without much effort. That said, I'm not sure how well it'll work if you're stitching together 3-4 inches of side skirt together, though I can see it holding its shape together, especially if it's not in a high traffic area.

u/isanyonekeepingtrack · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

First, make sure you're using Ammonia/VOC free glass cleaner. It's much less likely to screw up your electronics, or your nice HDTV screen.

If it's just the contacts on the SD card reader, you can try cleaning it with alcohol like said. Better would be to purchase an Electronics Contact Cleaner and see if you can revive it that way.

u/DocmanCC · 2 pointsr/Tools

I switched from Super Lube (which is great, I use it everywhere) to Permatex Ultra Engine Assembly Lube aka Red Lube of Love for my higher tooth-count ratchets. That stuff is extremely slick and sticky. Rats glide effortlessly, noticeably better than Super Lube. However, it is more quiet, so if you're the kind who feels or listens for the clicks you may not like it as much.

u/MorningFrog · 99 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I too had this issue, and completely fixed it with some electrical contact cleaner. Compressed air didn't work, I had to use this stuff. You lift up the rubber base of the sticks and spray this stuff in there on all the sides, wiggle around your sticks a bit to get it all around in there, let it dry for a an hour and then they'll be back to normal. I have to repeat this process every few months depending on how often depending on how much I'm using my switch, but it's super easy and takes very little time. I still have the same can of cleaner, and it seems like it has plenty left in it.

u/Gundamnitpete · 1 pointr/motorcycles

> Full winterization checklist: - bike on stands, wheels off ground - treat fuel (ensure stabilizer runs through fuel system, too) - change oil before storage - change coolant before storage - wash, wax and detail before storage - clean and lube chain (if so equipped)

This is hundreds of dollars worth of shit that plenty of people don't have to spare, so I'm gonna brake it down a bit.

> bike on stands, wheels off ground

If you don't own stands, this could cost $400 or more(cause you have to buy them). The point in doing this is to prevent flat spots in your tires, so if you've got old tires you don't give a shit about, just let it sit and change them next season. If you do give a shit about your tires but don't want to buy stands, just roll the bike around every week or so to change where it's stilling on the tires.

> treat fuel (ensure stabilizer runs through fuel system, too)

This is a big one that really shouldn't be neglected. You really, REALLY don't want to have to change an injector because a clump of old fuel clogged it. Fuel stabilizer is relatively cheap at $5 for 4 ounces so order some and get it into the bike before putting her away (let it run through the engine too, 1/8-1/4th of the full tank).

> change oil before storage

I take the opposite approach, changing the oil after storage. For the layman, changing your oil has little to do with lubrication. Oil is a lubricant by it's molecular structure, the actual oil itself never stops being a lubricant.

However, there are a ton of additives in oil to keep your engine clean. Anti-mosture, cleaning detergents, anti-foam, etc, etc. These break down over time and use(3 month, 3000 miles) and need to be replaced. And when they break down, they get in the way of your oil(basically filling it with crap so it doesn't lubricate as cleanly as new oil).

> change coolant before storage

IMHO no point in doing this as long as you stay up to date on your coolant. Does it look bad? Change it. Does it look good? Leave it. Just make sure you look it over when pulling her out next year.

> wash, wax and detail before storage

Wax isn't going to protect your paint from cold temps. If you have a cover, put it over the bike to keep it from getting covered in dust.

> clean and lube chain (if so equipped)

Definitely a good idea, 3 months is plenty of time for a change to get some heavy rust on it. If you're super lazy, at least spray it down with some lube(Not WD-40!) before putting it away.

u/ikilledtupac · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

It comes down to how long do you want it to last?

You're getting a lot of old school suggestions here with bondo and fiberglass stuff. There are products for this that work that consumers can get which are significantly easier to use and more effective.

Pick up what is called a "bumper repair kit". I know you are not preparing a bumper but it contains everything you need. The kit is sold at most auto store places. It contains a two-part dispenser of a black urethane epoxy and a sheet of webbing and some plastic tabs. When I get to my computer I will come back here and post a YouTube link on the basics for how you can repair this it's not the exact same issue but the similar process will work.

The kit looks like:

Use that kit with this method:


Follow the steps in this video as they apply to you, but use the the bumper repair kit you buy at the store. The same prep and application method. If you can't get to the backside of the cut, that's okay. If you have a drill, drill two small holes on each side of the cut, then apply the repair material over the little holes you drilled, and the big one you are trying to fix, all with one patch. The material will go through the little holes you drilled, expand, then dry-effectively the same thing as a rivet, but stronger and easier.

u/LambdaNuC · 1 pointr/moto360

Super glue is far too brittle to work with a silicone like the loop is made of. A better option would be a silicone adhesive like this: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U .

The problem is that as the loop stretches the super glue would not stretch with it, causing stress and cracking in the cured super glue layer.

u/The_Friskies · 1 pointr/Harley

I wouldn't put that chemical on my tires or get it anywhere near my bike. It's practically lacquer thinner in a can and will eat up your paint and plastics if it splashes on them.

I use CRC QD electrical cleaner. It makes the oil drip right off of anything, is plastic safe, doesn't hurt painted parts of my engine or wheels, and it doesn't leave a residue. It's the best on my old bike when I'm trying to track down an oil leak. clean the whole engine with it, start the bike and see where the oil starts seaping from first. I pick it up on amazon when it drops below 4 or 5 bucks a can.

Dish soap is the best alternative though.

u/bigj231 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Bah. Save your money and go to your local hardware store. Tell them you want some clear grease like superlube. It's cheaper and perfectly fine for this kind of stuff.

Like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-Syncolon-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI

u/DeathKoil · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've been looking at the Rockit 88 for several weeks, and every time I check the website it is out of stock. How long did you have the check for stock before you were able to place an order?\

EDIT: They are back in stock!!! I checked two hours ago and there was still a message about a backorder, but they are now in stock!!

Edit2: Links for those interested:

  • Rockit 88 de-lidding tool for Haswell, Ivy Bridge, Devil's Canyon, Skylake, and Kaby Lake
  • Rockit 88 Re-lid tool for 1150/1151 sockets. This is not required but for 8 bucks I feel it's worth it.
  • Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra to use between the dye and the IHS.
  • High Temp Silicon for those who want to re-stick their IHS to the PCB. Use a very small amount to allow you to de-lid again if needed and the less you use the closer the IHS will be to the CPU dye.
  • Whatever Thermal Paste you prefer. It is recommended (but not required) to cover the four gold pins on the PCB that are covered by the IHS with either thermal paste or Silicon. This will avoid shorts if the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra "leaks" off of the dye onto the PCB, it is liquid after all. I use thermal Paste for this as it is easier to remove if needed.
u/meh-guy · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hi, I want to try to build my first custom mechanical keyboard soon. I think I have everything sorted out, but I want to know if I'm making any mistakes. This is my part list:

  • DZ65RGB kit, with brass plate. Also with the upgrade to GMK screw-in stabilizers you can select when buying it.
  • Zealios v2 62g. Everyone seems to like these, so I thought I'd try them. I chose the lightest weight because I want it to have faster actuation for gaming.
  • Keycaps? I haven't found a keycap set I really liked. I wanted DSA profile, but I couldn't find a PBT set with a color scheme I liked. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd like to hear them.
  • Super Lube mixed with other super lube to lube the switches. The most common lube is a bit too expensive, and I found someone who used this as a cheaper alternative. It seemed to work for them.
u/boostedmioo · 1 pointr/boostedboards

Try to apply this product on the screw which tight the motor mount to the truck. based on what the boosted customer service said, those screws were designed to hold motor mount to the truck, temporarily while the epoxy completely dry. But, thread locker and screw hold motor mount really well. It has been almost 4months after I apply thread locker. and it still holds with any problem. but send them back to boosted before ur warranty ends just for check up, which i ll do pretty soon:)

Make sure to leave ur board for 24hours after u apply thread locker. make sure do not touch or ride for 24hours!!

u/scirocco · 6 pointsr/legaladvice

edit: Not A Lawyer



This is absolutely the answer.

I suggest a Fernco seal rather than a wax ring. It is more secure and a tighter/better seal than oldschool wax rings.

A wax ring only gives you one shot to get a good seal. Once mushed it won't seal well. If the toilet moves, it may leak.

The Fernco has a powerful adhesive that sticks to the bottom of the toilet and the funnel extends a little bit into the pipe.

There are two sizes, 3" and 4".

To do an extra good job, use brake cleaner or Goof Off (not goo-gone or citrus) to strip all the wax residue from the toilet.

Make sure the toilet is well bolted down, doesn't rock.


Links: (no affiliate/interest)





u/Nyxian · 3 pointsr/airsoft

Hi. As both someone who uses Froglube on firearms, and as someone who techs AEG gearboxes...

It won't be harmful, but really isn't ideal. Specifically, froglube CLP isn't good, far too thin. The paste - well, if you properly treat all of the metal with the heat treatment, it'll be okay, but I still think a proper gear lubricant is in order.

You have to realize that while they are both "guns" - an AEG is far more a gearbox than a gun. You need gearbox lubricant not gun lubricant.

I highly suggest for seals and the like - a solid silicone lubricant. Barrels and mags - a teflon lubricant with alcohol application, so it dries but still provides lubrication, without getting on bbs.

For the gearbox? Go with Super lube.

u/ajax54 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Mine did this exactly. [This is the contact cleaner I used] (https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535827404&sr=8-3&keywords=electronic+contact+cleaner+crc) and many others have had success with it too. It's also in the automotive section of walmart for the same price.

There's a dust cover at the base of the joystick. Make sure the controller is off, tilt the stick and lift the doughnut cover with a credit card or toothpick. Then spray some of the cleaner in. Move the joystick around then repeat from the other side. Keep the cover lifted while the cleaner is drying.

u/StillMind2010 · 1 pointr/rccars

The blue stuff is most common - you'll find it anywhere, but I find it's too strong for some small screws (like the ones you find in RC cars) , so I've stripped out a few screw heads and started looking for another solution.

The one I ended up getting is the Loctite 222 "low strength", which is purple. I ordered it form Amazon.com and had it delivered to me in Canada (east of Toronto): https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-555339-Purple-Strength-6-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTT0

If you do use the blue, use the smallest amount possible and you should be OK. And only use the stuff on metal to metal - it apparently doesn't like plastic.

For what it's worth, I'm the only guy I've come across in the dozens of people I RC with who uses the purple stuff. That's how rare it is. LOL

u/Dan11151 · 1 pointr/sffpc

Here’s the link of the glue:

I’ve only tried delidding with the BoArt one, and I’d say the tool has high quality and definitely easy to use for anyone. The rockit88 also comes with the relid tool, but not necessary imo, since I simply applied 4 drops of the glue on each corner of the IHS and put the whole cpu unit back to motherhood, as the retention is strong enough to keep the IHS and PCB together. Lastly, the PRICE! The BoArt one costs only $12.99 compared with $45.99 for rockit88, so its ur choice! :)

u/MegaStoke · 2 pointsr/tradclimbing

I'm probably gonna die, but I use a quick blast of automotive brake parts cleaner to get my cams clean, dry them with compressed air, and apply Liquid Wrench Teflon spray lube. Seems to get the cams good and clean without scrubbing, and keeps things nice and smooth operating for a long time without attracting gunk.

u/240pMan · 1 pointr/retrogaming

Superlube Synthetic grease also works great, is safe to use on plastic and is non-toxic. You can find it here, https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518152510&sr=8-1&keywords=superlube+synthetic+grease. It comes in various sizes. You can also purchase a 14oz cartridge of it for a few dollars more but I prefer to have it in a plastic tube.
Some people that have used white lithium grease have said that it can dry up a bit and clump up over time. I did a lot of research before deciding on the best grease to use for the N64 joystick.

u/Elgand · 2 pointsr/PS4

I don't intend to contradict the above answer, because it is certainly a viable and good solution. I would go one step further and purchase electric contact cleaner.

This is what I use

This contains no water and will clean it up with no issue. It is more expensive, but I have been happy to have it on more than one occasion. Make sure you don't get any on the joysticks though, it leaves a white residue on soft plastic. The residue can easily be cleaned, but it is annoying.

u/pixelbaron · 1 pointr/Guitar

Here's a list of basics that I bought recently to give you an idea:

Feeler Gauges

Hex Key Wrench Set

String Action Gauge

String Winder

Contact Cleaner for Electronics

Neck Rest

I already have various sized screw drivers, but if I didn't that would be on the list as well.

The above would be enough to do a basic setup: adjust truss rod, adjust action, get into the guts and clean the electronics. Everything will fit in a beat up old shoe box haha.

Along with YouTube videos, this book is a good reference guide. It has everything from basic repair and maintenance information all the way to repairing a broken neck or trying to repair a messed up truss rod.

u/ssl-3 · 1 pointr/Skookum


Why does the grease need removed? Greasing electrical contacts isn't necessarily uncommon to help prevent corrosion (and copper loves to corrode in ways that electricity doesn't like).

If you're sure you want to remove the grease, use America's favorite libation: CRC Brākleen in the non-California-approved red can. It's usually cheaper locally: I bought some today at Harbor Freight for $7.

You can also buy it by the gallon or larger, up to (at least) 55 gallon drums.

u/mrflarp · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

The 0801 was discontinued as of June 1, so they should be starting to hit clearance prices. Kershawguy has it for $139 w/ free shipping and no sales tax. It is a great design. I've actually ended up with multiple of the different variants of this, but haven't had one of the "plain" ones. Maybe now is an opportune time to pick one up. ;)

As for the pivot coming loose, a bottle of threadlocker runs about $5 online or at your local hardware store. If you plan to be tinkering with your knives at some point, it's definitely worth picking one of these up. A single bottle will last you quite a long time.

u/jvargaszabo · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Try going to an auto parts store and getting some silicone RTV, probably a small tube.

I could be totally off-base here, but that seems like it would have the desired effect. It's usually temperature resistant, and if you get it somewhere you don't want it, it usually scrapes off pretty easy. Not clothes, or hair unfortunately.

I think you're not supposed to get it on your skin. It'll dry/cure to a silicone gasket material. It's sometimes referred to as gasket maker.

u/jacksheerin · 1 pointr/motorcycles


Buy some. Go to WalMart or wherever you buy oil and whatnot. They will have it. When you put fuel in your bike put some stabil in as well. They have terms for how much is appropriate, I don't know them. I add a solid dollop or 6 when I fill up. Been doing it for 10 years, so far so good. Stabil keeps your gas from going stale. Stale gas is bad. Bike no run good. Adding to little may not get the job done. Add too much and all is well. It's cheap stuff. A bottle lasts me a year or two.


Seriously consider heated gear. It's awesome.

>Any recommendations? my battery is already set up

The word on the street is that Gerbings makes the best stuff, very nice warranty as well. My electrics are FirstGear. Mostly because they were cheaper. 5-6 years of use thus far and no trouble from the gear.

You need a controller. Google it. On high - which is what electrics default too - you'll cook. IMO a jacket/gloves are the way to start. It's what I have been riding in for years now in PA. Pants/etc are all well and good.. but I don't seem to need them much. I may just be tough as nails ; )

Heated grips will do an awful lot and I have ridden through several winters with just grips and a jacket. Heated gloves are a sign from god that he loves us all and wants us to die on two wheels.

Good luck!

u/ListenBeforeSpeaking · 1 pointr/watercooling

Yes. If you outer chamfer the tube edge, it will prevent the tube edge from catching on the o-ring.

Additionally, you can lightly lube the o-ring (see Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/). Lubing will allow the tube to go in much easier while still maintaining a seal. You want the lightest coating you can do. I use a foam tip art brush applicator.)

u/darklynx4 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It would require complete disassembly of the psu and a cleaning of every component.

The best cleaner is something like quick drying CRC contact/electronic cleaner. I've used this many time, and it works really well.


u/dabneyd79 · 2 pointsr/simracing

First thing is the "registers values when it is not even being engaged." issue. You need to get some Caig Deoxit to clean the potentiometers. That will resolve that issue. I'm not sure you'll be happy with not hard mounting the pedals if you have a really heavy brake pedal; I know I wouldn't be.

u/Yamarel · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

No kidding? Man, that's a nice surprise.

Sorry, I thought you were saying "seal the crank pulse generator part with hondabond" not the entire cover lol.
Any guess as to how much i will need? Like will the 1.9fl oz be enough or should I get this off brand liquid gasket or are they basically the same thing?

Will I need a razorblade to remove the existing seal?

Sorry for the barrage of questions but thank you so much for the help already.

u/oFAILIXo · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I used this for my stabilizers: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube by Super Lube https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QLATybMWDFXHH

If you can still reach the points where the wire is having contact with the oring (seems like you can) with a small paintbrush, you can still apply lube.

u/thiosk · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

oh my! Thank you for the detailed info and for providing technical information. For the lags, i'm still coming familiar with the vocabulary here- would that be a product like the SDW EWP-Ply Screw?

Some of that is higher level than im potentially capable of this summer I think, so I'll start with the spirals.


For the locktite, I presume we'd want to use a product like this


Thank you again for the suggestions!

u/falkentyne · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can buy 100g of Shin Etsu g-30m for $15 dollars.



G-40M is available from focusattack but it's more expensive.

They all perform the same so its not worth paying the extra $10, and Sanwa themselves said that you can use G-30m on their joysticks just fine.

Shin etsu ALSO makes thermal compound for CPUs but this is NOT the same thing. This is VERY high quality silicone lube.

While the best way is to disassemble the top of the switch, only PCB mount switches can be accessed this way without soldering (a removal tool is on mechanicalkeyboards.com). You can just find something needle nosed or pinhead thin and press the switch down and squeeze a little into each side of the switch. You don't need a lot.

u/yobilltechno · 1 pointr/subaru

Not low on coolant So that sounds promising. I already have a new thermostat and will replace tomorrow. I just didnt want to drain the whole system again. Is the Subaru Coolant Conditioner something I should add as well?

Will check on the heater core hoses and update.

Thanks so much for your help!

u/Eisenstein · 3 pointsr/vintageaudio

Well, if you can use the lab and it has a scope in it then you just scored big time.

As far as $100. I would get:

(amazon links for convenience, use any supplier you wish)

  • DMM (digital multimeter) - must have diode check, DC volts, AC volts, Ohms, and continuity. Extech EX330 ($50) or Equus 3320 ($20)

  • clip leads for the meter such as these - these are important because you will need to take values while the amp is on, and you don't want to be poking around a live amp

  • variable power/temp soldering iron - cheap one good one better one

  • 60/40 leaded solder - I like this kind

  • desolder braid

  • rosin flux

  • contact cleaner

  • (de-oxit d-5)[http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S6-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/]

  • flush cutters

  • solder sucker

  • shrink tube of various diameters

  • 92%+ isopropyl alcohol

  • windex

  • q-tips

  • paper towels

  • needle nose pliers

  • nice set of phillips head screwdrivers

  • standard screwdriver

  • miner's headlamp

  • digital camera for taking many many pictures before and during disassembly

  • printer for printing service manuals

  • heat gunor hair dryer

  • canned air

    EDIT: Light bulb socket, 100W + 60W real light bulbs (not the hippy engery saving kind), electrical outlet - these are for making a dim bulb tester.

    All I can think of right now.
u/maultify · 1 pointr/LogitechG

I've went through 3, but that was before I was able to fix the middle button. I highly recommend getting some electrical contact cleaner (I used this), spray a little bit in each side, roll/click it a couple times, wait for a half an hour. Mine's been working flawless since.

Unless you've been having other issues...

u/ender32708 · 1 pointr/ender3

Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J041Cb6HXVCWF

Multipurpose Grease, XHP 222 SPECIAL, 14.1 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VGEEM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v441CbAQWR8KJ

Any grease is better than none. It’s also helps quality. I use mobile grease, left over from my CNC repair days. One tube is a lifetime supply for the little you need, use a Q-Tip and apply a thin coat all the way up, Run your Z-axis all the way up and down, and apply a little every month. I use a old medication bottle to keep a small supply next to my machine. Keep the Q-tip in the bottle. When the grease turns a dirty white, just wipe away the extra and reapply. Do not use oil, that makes a mess and disappears. If you need to clean the Z axis rod and bearing, use mineral sprits on a clean rag and wipe it clean and dry, add new grease.

u/thetafour · 2 pointsr/ft86

Yeah, all i did was some super quick google-fu like i would assume most people would when they are doing research.

If anything, at least he has a handful more options to look at right?

if i had the money i would go with the G-four because at first glance, it seems to play right up there with the Torque. Personally im going to stick to ATE for now and the occasional track day since i can get it near cost

u/Expat123456 · 1 pointr/Android

Have you tried buying contact cleaner spraying your button with it? (mechanical contact cleaner, not eye contacts!)

Alternative, 99% isopropyl alcohol. A high percentage (not 70% meant for sterilization)

Well this info is for whoever you gift the phone too.

With the new Razer announcement, I would get that over the Pixel. (for me, much better front loudspeakers are more important than a step up in camera quality)

u/AaronCompNetSys · 3 pointsr/Miata

$15.93 via Amazon Prime - Genuine Honda 08798-9013 Silicone Grease (Thanks, u/tadfisher)

It's a common topic, but many simply have not come across it. This Shin-etsu is what Japanese OEMs use to keep rubber weather stripping like new. It can rejuvenate stuff you though needed replaced, everyone should have a tube of it and treat yearly to bi-yearly, on any vehicle.

Use gloves, apply a very thin layer, allow to sit for at least an hour. Wipe off excess with moist cloth towel.

Posting this because Tom was recommending the cheap generic stuff.

u/Inathero · 1 pointr/FidgetSpinners

You could grab some light-weight loctite like loctite blue: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS/

Then put a very very small amount on the threads, screw them as tight as you can, and let them sit. They'll be secure. And since you're using something like loctite instead of super glue, you can still unscrew them (though it'll take a lot more effort)

u/oldtoolfool · 2 pointsr/handtools

No problem grasshopper. Those stems are actually hard to remove, so congratulations. This makes it easier for the knob issue, now you can soak it in kero laced with PB and it will come, you can also mount the stem in a vice (use scrap wood or leather to protect the threads. As to the stem, clean it well, then when you reinsert it use some Loctite and it will be fine. Vintage tool restoration is not for the faint of heart. Again, patience, and you will overcome.....


u/rilesjenkins · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I don't really have good advice for you there. I've been using this stuff simply because my roommate had it on hand. It's not the easiest to work with but it's been getting the job done. The Punished Props YouTube channel has some good tips for spot filling. One of which is mixing super glue with baking soda (I think) to make it more of a paste. I'm considering giving that a try eventually.

u/thareaper · 1 pointr/overclocking

Here's all my PC parts: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/thareaper/saved/#view=BCKsYJ

As for the silicone I went with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tried to put as little silicone on as I could around the edge so it wouldn't smudge everywhere. It worked pretty well. Hopefully you'll get results like I did!

u/BlueBoyBobSucksDick · 2 pointsr/subaru

First of all, take the break in period seriously. For the first 1000 miles, Subaru says to try to avoid running it above 3000 rpms. So basically, don't go too fast when you're in higher gears.

Hold off on mods for a little while until you really get a feel for the car and how it drives. Get a baseline and then look into mods if that's your thing. They are badass cars stock from the dealer.

Change the oil frequently, around every 3,500 miles or so, and use good oil. Rotella t6 seems to be the popular and economical choice.

Check your oil level weekly. Subarus have a tendency to burn oil, even when they're new. Subaru is involved in a class action lawsuit over the matter now. Either way, its not unusual to have to add a half quart every now and then.

Keep up on maintenance. Subarus are just as reliable as Hondas and Toyotas, but they tend to be more finicky about maintenance. Try to follow the book. Brake fluid and coolant should definitely be changed every 30,000 miles. I reccommend OEM coolant and ATE brake fluid. Some of the other stuff isn't as necessary (spark plugs every 30k miles is kind of overkill, IMO) but use good judgement and don't be afraid to research.

u/estrago1 · 3 pointsr/Guitar

You'll want contact cleaner. Deoxit is great for cleaning potentiometers, as well as other electronic connections. Look at the picture of the pot that seb_m posted; see that little notch on the bottom, right-hand of the picture? That's where you'll want to spray the contact cleaner. Then you just turn the pot back and forth a few times to work it around.

u/mesaone · 6 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

better use a contact cleaner instead of lighter fluid. Costs about the same. Deoxit is a cleaner you can spray into the pot, twist the pot repeatedly, and then (optional) blow out with canned air. Works like a charm, it's made specifically for this purpose.


u/mikey2style · 2 pointsr/AstroGaming

Like this?

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_G5QRDbE4F92RA

First ive heard of this but looks like it has other uses.

Thanks for the tip!

u/Icecube1409 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I cleaned my pc with compressed air, but it doesnt look like everything went away, I still got this [Contact cleaner]( https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=contact+cleaner&qid=1558717635&s=music&sr=1-1-catcorr) from WD-40 which has more power and is kind of a "liquid that evaporate" you probably know what I mean. Is it safe to use this on the top side of my GPU to clean it?

u/absspaghetti · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Lithium grease is more for weather resistance and heavy duty. I wouldn't use anything heavier than the ptfe silicone.


Honestly though $6.82 and free shipping http://www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Grease-Syncolon-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI

That stuff is really good and not too heavy.

u/Drjay425 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I used WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner spray you can get it at homedepot for like $5. Make sure NOT to use regular WD-40. A quick 1 second spray under the flap of the analog and it will be as good as new. Heres a link to the right one if you want to get it from amazon.


u/11lariat · 1 pointr/Trucks

I've always used 3M weatherstripping adhesive. Amazon carries it, but I usually get it from my local parts place.


Not sure what to recommend for the back panels. Silicone caulk isn't going to be super durable though.

u/elahd · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I also have a self-built i3 that was loud when first built. I was able to cut down on noise by doing the following:

  1. Added rubber feet to all printer parts that touch whatever the printer is sitting on. My printer was turning my hollow IKEA table into giant soundboard.
  2. Added stepper motor vibration dampers (the type sold here) to X and Y steppers.
  3. Adjusted the current on my stepper motor drivers. Too high or too low will cause noise.
  4. Fiddled with bearing alignment on X and Y carriages. They're loud if even slightly out of alignment.
  5. Added a larger, slower spinning fan to my E3D hotend with an adapter found on Thingiverse.
  6. Cleaned my linear rods with rubbing alcohol and lubricated with PTFE lubricant. I used Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube, but any will do. (As an aside, you should also use synthetic grease on your threaded rods. Nothing to do with noise, but will help extend the life of your parts.)

    Also, periodically make sure that all nuts are tight. They tend to loosen from vibration allowing washers to rattle around.

    My next step will probably be using IGUS Drylin bearings in place of my ball bearing LM8UUs, but this plan is on hold while I consider switching to a CoreXY configuration.

    Hope this helps!
u/RichardCabezo · 2 pointsr/subaru

Nice! As preventative maintenance Subaru sells this stuff. It is rebranded Holt's Radweld. Small bottle. I threw some in my daughter's Subie just in case. Can't hurt I guess. If the headgaskets on the replacement motor were original units then it is probably just a matter of time before they go too. But, you never know. This magic Subie juice is supposed to help.



u/Lion42 · 4 pointsr/flashlight



NyoGel is great but expensive. SuperLube is great but cheap...

u/short_lurker · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I had the same issue with one of the linear bearings for my Folger 2020 too. Just like you I had put some oil and grease to try to help it, but it didn't work. I started over and wash it all out with some electric parts cleaner spray and blew it dry with light compressed air (get the QD for plastic safe) and that improved it.

Also try orientating it so the lines of bearing balls sit at 45 degree angles on the smooth rod like in the left example of the first attached picture in this post. I did this for my x and y axis. For z I just lined up both bearings. it really helped.

u/MLDsmithy · 1 pointr/magnetfishing

Yeah, it's just a thread sealant; keeps the threads from banging loose over time (which they do). UK might have a different version, but loctite is pretty prolific, I'd be surprised if you don't have it. Link below off the US market for reference; this is the blue stuff, which will keep the threads from coming loose, but will still let you remove it if you actively try. Another nut could work, but thread sealer is better for the purpose; it's also cheap, and the tiniest bottle will last a very long time. It only takes a drop or two on the threads.


u/jonnydoo84 · 3 pointsr/wallstreetbets

This isn't horrible. $25 gift card, but more importantly, it should be the version2 switch with better battery life - https://slickdeals.net/f/13642192-nintendo-switch-v2-25-amazon-promo-credit-298-99?src=frontpage

if you buy it and actually use it enough you'll probably want this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0OFVU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

then follow this.

u/Janusdarke · 1 pointr/techsupport

Well, it covers the center part, which emits most of the heat, but overall its purpose is to fill all the tiny gaps between the surface of the CPU and the surface of the cooler block. Your TIM looks really thick and did not spread very well.


I would strongly suggest that you replace it in the near future.


Get something like this to clean off the CPU and the Cooler block, and then apply a good Thermal Paste like this one. Keep an eye on which one you buy though, some of them conduct electricity. You don't want to apply to much of these ones, since they can short your board if not applied correctly.

u/ACroff · 2 pointsr/magnetfishing

I also recommend this. Optionally, a five gallon bucket and an ice scraper for scraping small parts off your magnet also come in handy. Most importantly, have fun!

u/petelp · 2 pointsr/Roku

This problem sounds like you may have some dirty or oxidized contacts on your hdmi ports and/or plugs, which can definitely cause the symptoms you're seeing.

Whenever you remove a plug and plug it in again the friction of that action does a little cleaning, which would explain the temporary improvement you see when you do that.

Removing the plug and plugging it in (say 20 times in a row) may make your problem disappear for a much longer time. However, that action, preceded by spraying "contact cleaner spray" into both the hdmi ports and the hdmi plugs, will provide the best solution. (Assuming that dirty/oxidized contacts are the source of your problem.)

I do think that's like to be the answer. I had similar problems years ago, and the solution I described has kept me problem free ever since, without needing to repeat the process.


u/Thanks_for_that_too · 1 pointr/Trucks


This: Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KNelzbNETSX7V

Versus this: Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEMZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YMelzb052MTNF

Which do you recommend?

u/gabedamien · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Recommend checking out the vintage section at bikeforums. Some tricks:

An oxalic acid bath for a day or so works well for removing rust from steel (but don't use it on aluminum). Flitz polish, which I used for a lot, requires a lot of "elbow grease" but gets a good shine on things – including paint (make sure the decals are below the clearcoat!), but it does strip the satin anodizing off of aluminum. WD-40 removes a lot of dried-on crud that mere soap and water fail to solvate. If a brake bolt is rusted into the frame, drip WD-40 onto it, use a block of wood as a buffer and smash it with a hammer. If the quill stem is stuck/rusted, unscrew the stem bolt a few mm, use a buffer and smash it with a hammer. - this will loosen the expander wedge. Turning the seatpost (keep the saddle attached) in one constant direction while pulling up is the best way to gradually remove it if it's stuck - twisting it back and forth will gouge it in a particularly ugly fashion. Um... get an adjustable (aka "crescent") wrench, I don't think a single nut on this bike worked with my normal wrenches.

That's all I can think of at the moment. Basic bike stuff also applies, like greasing the threads of every bolt and (almost) every metal-metal contact point (the cranks are supposed to be a dry press fit, though!), and lubing all the pivots & springs & whatnot. I like synthetic SuperLube with PTFE for grease, and a dry chain lube with Teflon for lubricant.

u/christopherira · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Don’t spray canned air into it. Make sure it’s contact cleaner for electronics. This is the one I used and it has fixed 2 of my joycons: https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=wd40+electrical+contact+cleaner&qid=1557692939&s=gateway&sprefix=wd40+&sr=8-2

The rubber flap can be propped up with a little object like a toothpick or safety pin (just be careful), and spray the contact cleaner into it, rotate the stick a few times, and let it dry.

u/cartesian_jewality · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Thanks for the response!

Yea, on the lower end of the bumper it was pierced. I'll go ahead and clean the hole out before I fill it then probable 2000 grit wet sand the area.

What do you reccomend for areas like this?

This is the type of filler I picked up, how well will this look painted?

u/NismoGrendel · 2 pointsr/Miata

Thats awesome, you dont need to mangle the cables now.

Unbolt window, pull it out following that guide. Also check out this guide which has some good info to get regulator/motor out:

There are a bunch of youtube vids that also show how to pull regulator, might be useful to watch a couple to see different explanations/angles/techniques.

You should be able to unbolt the regulator and the window motor, unclip the clips that hold the cables to the door, then remove both together thru the hole by your speaker.

Pry open the motor case and see if your wheel/cable is screwed. If it is, the quickest fix is to buy something like that amazon link below. I have seen other articles where they just replace the plastic wheel and get a cable made at a motorcycle shop. Buying the part was simplest so thats what I did.

Also, go ahead and order this shin etsu grease:

Use that on your window channels, the slot the window bushing slides in, etc.

You can also replace your window bushing w/ a delrin bushing - I haven't done this yet.

I just cleaned up my existing bushing and lubed it up with shin etsu grease.

My windows aren't perfect yet but they go up and down now, I'm going to tear into both sides in the future and clean them up/replace bushings.

u/throw_away_232332 · 2 pointsr/klr650

Here's a link to the same bolt I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CRVD8 (comes in pack of 5).

It's the same type of bolt except a bit oversize, so you can re-thread the aluminum pan -- just do it slowly and be careful on the first try, perhaps even back out a few times.

I was in the same situation and found this to work. I haven't changed the oil again yet, but I'll make a point to be extra careful re-torquing next time.

One piece of advice I found was to use high temp sealant (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1A) on the bolt at every oil change, as insurance against any lose threading. But just judging form the feel of bolt, once you rethread it seams to be a pretty tight fit; you'd have to be careless to mess it up.

Good luck.

u/SchmidtOutaLuck · 4 pointsr/wiiu

Get some of this stuff and spray it under the stick and roll it around. Works great for joycon drift so should work for that too.
WD40 Company 300554 Specialist Contact Cleaner Spray - 11 oz. with Smart Straw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tHYvDbCMH13V7

u/artist508 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

The SRC is based on the TM style V3 G36, evike even carries the SRC replacement for it. The custom M4s yeah, you might have to just swap the metal parts of the trigger assembles.

I would try cleaning the switches first like Rapturehitler said. If you can get a can of CRC plastic safe or DeOxit it is very effective when cleaning contacts.

u/muddisoap · 1 pointr/vita

Not sure about not spending anything but I’ve read some people with other controllers, when they have problems with analog sticks, swear by this spray, it’s like WD-40 electrical contact cleaner and they say it works wonders. Maybe vita stick is different and doesn’t get fixed as well, I don’t really know. But it’s worth a try for 6-7$ I guess.

WD-40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner Spray - Electronic & Electrical Equipment Cleaner. 11 oz. (Pack of 1) - 300554-E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B5PCCb7P9Y03Y

u/ihavenopeopleskills · 3 pointsr/subaru

If you don't have record of the last time the coolant was changed, change it. To play it safe I'd use Subaru Super Coolant (blue) with Subaru Cooling System Conditioner (Holts Radweld).

In the event you need to do the head gasket, Speed Academy has an amazing video I used to do mine.

  • Subarus tend to be easy to fix when they break. I have an '09 2.5i SE 5MT and I didn't even have to remove the hood to remove my engine.
  • Make sure whatever brand you use the new gaskets are MLS (multi-layer steel). As they are regarded in the community I used Six-Star Bernie.
  • If I had to do it again I would have used ARP studs to fasten my heads to the block.
  • Machine shop labor is cheap. Take your heads to one to have them professionally-decked.
  • When torquing the head studs into the block, find the Subaru directions (i.e., Mitchell1) and *follow them to the letter*. You're going to be turning them, backing them off, turning them again and whatnot. Just go with it.
  • "As long as ya got it outta there" you can change these things as well:
    • Timing belt & pulleys, thermostat, water pump (Aisin / "eye-shin" sells a reasonably-priced kit)
    • Coolant hoses
    • Spark plugs
    • Engine oil and filter
    • Oil pump
    • STi engine mounts (left, right)
    • *RECOMMENDED* oil pickup (the OEM one tends to crack, starving your engine of oil)
    • *RECOMMENDED* timing belt guide (as the stamped OEM one failed when my engine blew, I replaced it with a Tomei milled one)

      Call me crazy, but when I blew my engine I elected to keep the car. Subaru has engineered a family sedan way better than it has to be for the market and it shows.

      I need to do some digging to find the invoices of parts I purchased; I'll update this reply as I find them.
u/pyr0ball · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Looks like I may have miscopied it. Here it is

Looks like thingiverse was truncating the link for some reason. I used a shortener and that seemed to fix it. Thanks for pointing that out!

u/joseconseco999 · 2 pointsr/boostedboards

Not a dumb question exactly, you're just not putting in the effort!

Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v9ugzb8P1PS7R

Google is your friend :)

u/Astronom3r · 1 pointr/Miata

If the window doesn't go up, you may need a new regulator, new window guides, window alignment adjustment, or all of the above. Fortunately, it's actually a really easy job. Just make sure to have plenty of ShinEtsu grease before you do the job. I just did both windows on my 96 so PM me if you need any help.

u/DriversValhalla · 1 pointr/subaru

I cracked mine as well, clean it up, use sand paper on the back, apply mesh and bondo to the back side and fill cracks with bondo, apply clamp works surprisingly well. It will still be sort of visible unless you paint it.

Bondo 280 Epoxy Bumper Repair Syringe Kit - 0.34 fl. oz. by 3M http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046VN8JO/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_YB-tub1HXVC4W

u/SirTimmyTimbit · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm getting my YMD96 kit delivered on Thursday. I want to clip and lube my stabilizers based on Kim's video.

I can find Dielectric Grease locally here in Toronto but I can't find any Finish Line Teflon Grease, or any other teflon grease for that matter.

Ordering 205g0 will take 6-10 days from Apex. Here are my other, immediate options:

u/nonothing · 1 pointr/DartsTalk

If one truly wishes to use aluminum/Ti stems is there any reason not to use a thread locker like Loctite Blue or better yet Purple (222). It seems with ORings and Teflon tape the stem still loosens after a few rounds of throwing. With some thread locker you have a real aversion to release from the vibrations of a dart landing.

Worst case you have to remove it. With blue you'll surely need a tool to remove the shaft. Purple could be undone by hand, especially with shafts that have the hole through them to tighten with another dart.

u/BrewerGlyph · 2 pointsr/GuitarAmps

I was able to solve this by removing the tubes and using DeoxIT on the pins. Careful not to get any on the glass; it will remove the ink markings. Some fine sandpaper on the pins might help, as well.

u/Liluben · 1 pointr/DelSol

Swapped my 93's seals for some off a 96. Use lots of lube where the seals sit and on top of the seals to make sure they dont dry out on you and crack.

Get this 3M 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive to glue down the corners on the seals where the factory stuff was. This also works to glue the rubber together wherever theres a rip or crack. 10/10 product


u/jakeish_atelier · 1 pointr/ender3

This is what I use. Big improvement in prints.
Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jDe7CbKSHZ7KG

u/Goofball666 · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

Electronic Parts Cleaner spray and hope: http://amzn.com/B000BXOGNI

Next time apply MAX a grain of rice sized amount on the CPU and then spread across the top with something flat. The goal isn't to drown the CPU, it's just to fill in any small spaces between the CPU and heatsink to improve thermal conduction and avoid hot spots.

u/CarsonReidDavis · 1 pointr/lockpicking

I've used WD40 with plenty of success on old locks. With antiques, it is often less about the lube and more about cleaning out all the old gunk.

I would recommend getting over your kitchen sink and giving it a healthy spray, don't worry about using too much. If you have a rake, you can roughly rake in and out to get all the spray worked into the pin stacks. You should also mess with you tension wrench to work the plug a little bit. I would expect to see some dirty discharge from the lock when you do this. If you really want, you can repeat the process a couple of times until there is no more rust/dirt/oxidation coming out.

Recently I've been using DeoxIT D5, and it is quite effective. It is available on Amazon.

u/AnTi90d · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

It sounds like juice or some other form of grime has gotten behind your firing button.

You may be able to clean it out of there with rubbing alcohol or quick dry aerosol electronics cleaner.

Make sure you remove your batteries and leave them out until its dry, then spray some cleaner behind the button and work it around. I personally would go with the aerosol, as isopropyl alcohol will dissolve some plastics.

Amazon has it, your local hardware store might, too. There are many brands, but I think this is the most popular one:


u/moondawg25 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_lfmjDb174YANM --- what I use. Lasted me a year now and pretty good use. Still feels full.

u/SmokeShrubbery · 2 pointsr/StonerEngineering

Agreed, the little "top hat" shaped grommets are great. Might also be able to use gasket maker if nothing else fits. (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-F81160-Hi-Temp-Silicone-3-Ounce/dp/B0002UEN1A/ref=pd_sim_auto_1)

u/Syren__ · 2 pointsr/FidgetSpinners

everyone in the forums is using blue loctite for their bearings because they would like to remove them at some point again to clean or replace the bearing. I would recommend using that to seat the bearing.

u/rich-creamery-butter · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Isopropyl helps, I'd get some of this stuff too. It's great for exactly what you need.

u/jescereal · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I personally just use silicone grease from home depot, but I've read great things about Super Lube.

u/lnxmachine · 1 pointr/nds

This worked on mine, but only for a short period of time. I fixed it permanently with DeoxIT. Just take off the back cover (you'll need a tri-wing screwdriver) and spray this stuff into the buttons a few times (work the button a bunch between sprays). I did this a couple weeks ago and they've been working great since.

u/dmethvin · 1 pointr/Miata

The NB 5-speeds have the turret that needs oil. The 6-speed does not. I used the Ford Full Synthetic affectionately named "unicorn tears", https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-XT-M5-QS-Synthetic-Transmission/dp/B000NUES82 .

You might as well do the rebuild since you're opening it up, and they will help a lot with vague shifting. I used the 5x Racing kit with the metal bushing, http://5xracing.com/i-18896895-5x-racing-shifter-rebuild-kits-for-1999-2005-mazda-miata.html?ref=category:529257 .

u/Szalkow · 10 pointsr/handguns

Howdy, new /r/HappyBuckmarkOwners member!

Some Buckmark pointers:

  • It cannot be field-stripped without Allen wrenches (3/32 for sight base, 7/64 for barrel). If you want to clean without disassembling, strongly consider getting a boresnake to clean. If you only have a cleaning rod, you can clean from the muzzle but must be very careful not to ding or scrape the crown around the muzzle, or you can just disassemble the thing.

  • Don't dryfire an empty Buckmark. The firing pin will carve a notch on the breech face.

  • #4 yellow drywall anchors make perfect snap caps for practice and dryfire. You can also use spent 22LR casings.

  • A drop of blue Loctite on your sight base screws will keep them from coming loose after reassembly.

    If you're feeling adventurous:

  • Consider removing the mag disconnect. Being unable to pull the trigger without a magazine is a worthless feature, and removing one simple spring fixes this and improves the feel of the trigger pull.

  • Consider performing the Heggis flip to reduce the weight of your trigger pull.

  • Be careful when removing the grips - they hold tension on a lot of small parts.
u/reddmoney · 4 pointsr/preppers

Fuel stabilizer: https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I

I've saved gasoline 2-3 years without STABIL, I'd be hard pressed to tell you whether or not this stuff is really required. But it is not real expensive so to me it is worth it.

What you really have to do to save gas is have a set of cans and rotate through them so you always use the oldest gas first.

u/drsfmd · 3 pointsr/scooters

Having struggled with more rusted brake caliper hardware and rusted on drums than I care to talk about, I'm definitely in the school of mo-grease. This is my current favorite.

u/Boleo · 2 pointsr/Miata

You could check that the clutch hydraulics are working, meaning that the pedal is moving the shift fork enough so that the clutch is fully disengaged. If not you could replace the clutch slave and/or master cylinders. However that might be fine.

What you're describing is somewhat normal or worn synchronizers in the transmission. You can try changing the fluid to (something like) this:


Miatas are great cars especially for their light weight and suspension design, but mechanically they could use some improvement - engine, trans, etc. People rave about the Ford trans fluid.

u/Seabass18 · 8 pointsr/guns

I am a recent convert with a 9" SBR and 762 SDN6, I'll throw my hat in for super versatile esp if you are going to get a can like you said you are planning to.

Suppressed subsonic is much lighter recoiling than 223, you're talking about muzzle energy equivalent to 45 acp and the suppressor acts a as super quiet, very efficient muzzle break. My only complaint would be gas in the face via charging handle however I just spent 6$ on Black Silicone RTVand made a homemade gasbuster charging handle. I've yet to take it the range since but it should cut back on or eliminate gas blowback to the face.

300 Blk can be hard to come by locally but is readily available on the internet and once you have brass is easily reloadable.

u/boosterpackpack · 1 pointr/GalaxyS6

CRC 5103 Quick Dry Electronic Cleaner - 11 Wt Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JjJ0xbP4E4THK

I use that stuff but anything you find that's safe on plastic is also fine.

u/Mcrager · 1 pointr/buildapc
  1. Im not sure i would use nail polish remover, 90%+ purity rubbing alcohol would probably be more suitable, or get something like this Amazon Link which ive used before and it works very well for removing thermal paste.

  2. Thats a good thermal paste.
u/Mjolnir-3-9 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

It doesn't answer your question, but if I were you I'd order some fuel stabilizer online. Fill up the tank to the tip-top and put that in.

Fuel stabilizer will keep your gas "fresh" for up to 2 years, so you should make it through a few months just fine. Just make sure to top off your tank and re-add the appropriate amount of stabilizer after a ride.

u/Virisenox_ · 10 pointsr/flashlight

My recommendation: Super Lube. It's cheap, and it will work on anything. With vaseline, the petroleum will damage certain types of o-rings. Astro-glide is just not designed for this type of application either.

Lots of people also really love Nyogel. Here's a good CPF thread about greases and lubes.

u/BillNyeDeGrasseTyson · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

"Disk Brake Quiet" Like this stuff from CRC which I use creates a rubber like film when it dries to stop metal chattering against itself. It is on the pad faces backings and they do not need to move once installed against the caliper bracket and caliper cylinder, so a lubricant is not needed.

As far as the grease Syl-Glide is silicone based and works very well. The Permatex Ceramic lube I use lists as being "Compatible with internal/external brake rubber and plastic hardware, including ethylene-propylene rubber."

u/skylarmb · 1 pointr/cars

>minimum specs some fluids exceed these standards by quite a bit

Very true. The "DOT 4" fluid I bought recently actually exceeds even the DOT 5.1 standard by a good margin


u/shoangore · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Right, this is exactly the issue that's happening.

There are three solutions:

  • Use Loctite - This will prevent them from coming undone. But you can't let any touch the prop or it'll corrode the integrity.

  • Purchase reverse-threaded motor mounts to counteract the spin.

  • Use M5 Nylocks - This is what I use. I also purchased a simple ratchet wrench. They are cheap, plentiful, and allow you to do field repairs in just a matter of seconds.

    This is what mine looks like. You can buy them from pretty much any hardware store. Just ask for M5 nylocks. They have a plastic bit inside (color doesn't matter). You can bring in one of your prop nuts just to double-check and confirm they're M5.

    I use an 8mm ratchet wrench, the ratcheting capability is VERY important, it'll cut down your swap time by 90%.
u/adrianmonk · 1 pointr/audio

> spraying canned air

Air doesn't remove corrosion. You could try a contact cleaner spray like everybody's favorite, CAIG DeoxIT D5.

u/franciscomor · 3 pointsr/balisong

Probably. could be wrong though. Regardless it's pretty cheap.

Here is a relatively cheap supply list:

Loctite Blue 242:

Nano-Oil 10 weight:


There are probably better torques but l think these will work. I have a $45 set so I didn't think that is really cheap lol

u/Vid-Master · 1 pointr/hometheater


Something like that would be good for cleaning contacts on things like potentiometers (non-digital volume sliders / knobs) and the inside of connections or plugs or any other metal to metal contacts that carries signal or power.

Using water is a bad idea on any kind of internal parts, but should be OK if used on the outside of equipment, with NOT TOO MUCH water and quick drying afterwards.

u/Kabong · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Have you tried lubricating the z-axis threaded rod? It's not mentioned anywhere in the assembly guide, but I found that a liberal application of super lube did wonders for my RepRapPro Mendel. The Z axis used to bind constantly when it moved too fast and now it's perfect.

u/WardenWolf · -1 pointsr/tifu

Good news is that you can buy replacement keycaps if you have Cherry switches. Just Google it.

Oh wait, you can't. Hahahahaha. ;-)

But seriously, use this stuff. It's plastic-safe and also a great degreaser: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524142059&sr=8-3&keywords=electro+contact+cleaner

u/TheDancy · 3 pointsr/GuitarAmps

Contact cleaner, $4.77 @ Amazon, but you can buy at probably any store like Lowe's.

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m1G9Bb2YS6DMT

And the place on the pot to spray it (about halfway down on the page)


u/donsqeadle · 1 pointr/TeslaModel3

I’ve used this in the past with my previous car with happy results. ATE 706202 Original TYP 200 Racing Quality DOT 4 Brake Fluid - 1 Liter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VXRPL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_74AwDb09YAZ9D

u/Mn2511 · 2 pointsr/ft86

Read on the forums that it's usually a tail light gasket issue and applied this sealant on both gasket surfaces and that solved the issues.

3M 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive Tube - 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063X38M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_w9NoxbZZS1WR8

Also even the aftermarket tail lights can have this issue with the gasket.

u/CheetyPants · 1 pointr/xbox360

The only time I ever had an issue with my elite was after having it for a long long time(about five years as well) chances ate it's the same issue I had which was the pancake motor not spinning well more and more each day.
I went online and asked if I could grease it up with WD40, but was told because of how fast the discs spin it would evaporate real quick. Got suggested to use ceramic brake grease because of it's high temp tolerance.

Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018PSASU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TnWpDbR9N4XCM

Hadn't had a disc problem since. All you need to do is take the part that disc sits on off of the motor, grease up the lil rod, put it back together, and you should be fine.

Also you should be able to get the grease in an auto parts store really cheap, usually up by the registers in little test packets.

u/lomlslomls · 1 pointr/preppers

I keep 30 gal of stabilised gas in refurbished jerry cans that I got on eBay years ago. They last for two years and then I cycle them through our cars and have never had any issue with "old" gas. I use Sta-bil fuel stabilizer, twice the recommended dose for each can, and it works great.

Some photos: https://imgur.com/rM7sepe

u/masterfixer · 9 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Fascinating. I'm wondering if Subaru recommends and approves only one type of "stop leak", something they call a coolant conditioner, such as this, https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-SOA635071-Coolant-System-Conditioner/dp/B00IGZP2UE

u/dragonslovetacos2 · 2 pointsr/Turntablists

Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H26SCbP1TAWD1 I love you too.

Source: electronics technician

u/MetalHead310 · 2 pointsr/DIY

I didnt read your specific problem but I know for a FACT Deoxit is the gold standard for cleaning electric components. I have used it on electric guitars and vintage stereo receivers with great results.


u/cjchris66 · 14 pointsr/Tools

You don't know what brakekleen is?
Edit: it's the best stuff in the world
You have to get the chlorinated stuff though, if it says non chlorinated don't waste your money.

u/britishwonder · 7 pointsr/Miata

I just did this in my NB for the second time and i think its the right advice.

The differntial i used Royal Purple 75W90 (i think, double check me on the weight here)

For the transmission i finally bit the bullet and put in Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS. This shit is made from unicorn tears as far as i know.

Do 1 quart of royal purple for the diff, and 2 quarts of ford motorcraft for the tranny.
This stuff is really expensive. You'll spend about $75 for all of it. But i can honestly say this is the smoothest my car has been since i bought it. It's like shifting in a stick of butter.

Also if your tranny oil is super shitty i've heard it can be good to run some cheaper stuff through it first, drive around on it for a month or two, then drain it and put in the good stuff. I've never done a side by side comparison though so i can't say for sure if it's required or not.

u/Badger68 · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Deoxit D5 is the best contact cleaner for dirty pots. I tried substitutes (radio shack...) and they just don't cut the mustard. I haven't cleaned a twin, but on other amps and guitars I've gotten it to work without taking the chassis out. Turn the amp off, spray a good amount between the knob and the amp. Turn the knob back and forth a few times and leave it to dry for a minute or two. Power it on and see if it worked.

u/namelessted · -1 pointsr/buildapc

I would use a spray electronic cleaner like this or this.

I have found the WD-40 brand stuff at local hardware stores like Home Depot or Lowe's and it works great. Have cleaned off old motherboards and a GPU that had sticky soda all over the back of it.

Otherwise, as others have suggest, alcohol with wipes or q-tips. I just think the can and spraying the fuck out of it is the best first step to get the majority of it cleans and then using qtips for detail work if you find residue.

Also, as other have suggested, take all the components apart and clean them all separately, making sure the contacts and sockets are as clean as you can get.

How does somebody sit on a computer and piss in it? I've been blackout drunk before, but I can never understand how people can't find a toilet or bathtub/shower to piss in. Otherwise, wouldn't you just piss your clothes wherever you happen to pass out?