Reddit mentions: The best open-end wrenches

Here are several of my favorite special tools made by Ridgid

Amazon This tool is really handy for faucets and drains.

$30 on amazon

Amazon Every one needs a few extra 6 in 1's laying around, may as well get a good one.

$12 on amazon

Amazon This two part wrench is perfect for water stops.

$30 on Amazon

Amazon This is the bees knees for cutting the tubular plastic used for traps and waste lines under sinks and lavs.

$20 on Amazon

You can probably get all of that and be just over the $100 limit with taxes and shipping. I've used all of these in the field and now sell them since i moved to the other side of the parts counter, they make good stuff. Do a Ridgid Tool search on Amazon so you can see if any of there more expensive tools would make sense. Like if he does gas work with copper, they have great flairing tools.

1. Get JIS screwdrivers if you don't have them already. The carbs are brass and it's easy to strip the screws.
   https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=13IVJB32CWN3L&keywords=jus+screwdriver&qid=1555384541&s=gateway&sprefix=jis+&sr=8-2
   
   
2. YouTube Shane Conley. He's an automotive teacher and posts some incredibly informative videos
   https://www.youtube.com/user/conleybuilt
   
   
3. for the valves, finding the right feeler gauge was a pain. Here's what I landed on.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039LBDK8/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   Here's the shim kit
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UKM6LG/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   measure the shim before you put it in. You will be doing extra work if you replace a shim only to discover it's the wrong size after install when you're double checking everything.
   
   
4. I've got a post around here from me doing shims, I'll try to find it because there's other good stuff in there.
   Found the link, looks like I got most of it. There's other good stuff though.
   https://www.reddit.com/r/SVRiders/comments/an7gab/you_guys_rock/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
   
   
5. drop the radiator before doing shims, it's so much easier.
   
   
6. if you have manual tension adjusters, grab a set of socket extensions and flare nut crows feet
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRJF4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
   
   
7. measure and record everything, draw your own pictures and diagrams
   
   
8. telescoping magnet and good lighting because you WILL drop something, somewhere
   
   
9. check float height since you're in there already but you may not need to clean much on the carbs if there's not a power issue. The bowl gaskets do leak sometimes, might as well replace those. Definitely check the float needle.
   
   
10. when cleaning, remember the needles are brass which is soft. Don't abuse them because they're easy to scratch.
    
    Edit
    
    
11. grab a torque wrench for putting it back together and be very careful not to cross thread, the aluminum in the head is easy to rip out if you over torque or cross thread. Especially the bolts for the valve covers.

Plumber's apprentice here, a little overeager to talk about this. I definitely use my baby channel locks on faucet supply lines at the valve with my large ones to hold the valve steady. For the top portion where the line goes into the faucet I have a special red tool that tightens them. You put the supply line inside of it so you can still twist it to tighten, it's pretty neat! It even has another side for tightening the plastic nut that holds the faucet in place underneath so you can easily tighten what's needed in those very cramped quarters

https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-57003-Change-Faucet-Wrench/dp/B078YYD66B

(Check out the 4th pic for context of putting the supply lines inside of it. The metal piece on the right comes out for tightening of the supply line and plastic nut that holds the faucet down)

https://www.amazon.com/Bovidix-0680810-Flare-Wrench-Metric/dp/B00IZ46REQ/

You can usually find them locally.

Topping off the fluid every 6 months sounds like a pretty slow leak but the slave cylinder is cheap to replace. You might want to have a piece of a plastic bag and a rubber band or something like that handy to keep fluid from coming out of the line when you remove it. Brake fluid can eventually remove paint so it's good to clean up any spills. Also make sure you bleed it after installing.

OP did say angle wrenches already but this was my go-to answer as well. TEKTON sells a 14 piece set for about $40 on Amazon if you're not ready to sell your soul to the Snap-On guy. My set has held up very well so far. Crow's foot attachments are really useful too.

Reminds me of this that I own.

I've used it 3 times, other people have borrowed it more than I have used it. It's not a life-changer, but when you need it...

I love it with my 28" 1/2"drive flex head ratchet on it... fully extended. It's amazing what a wrench will put up with and still break a fastener loose.

This is the barrel wrench I got:

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/288479/pri-barrel-nut-wrench-with-extended-handle-ar-15
Solid piece of kit. Can use the handle for getting it close, then pop in a torque wrench to finish it. Just be sure to use proper torquing technique when using an extended tool like that.

For buffer tube castle nut, I got this (maybe not this exact one, but something very similar):

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-m4-stock-wrench-prod16882.aspx

When I later installed a free-float handguard, it came with its own barrel nut that doesn't even use my barrel nut wrench. I ended up having to buy this crowfoot wrench and make it thinner with a grinder to fit over the new barrel nut. So, now I have one of these also:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1R28E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this when I’m changing a faucet. I’m not sure what yours looks like underneath but this has been my money maker.

Ridgid 57003 EZ Change Faucet Tool, Sink Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078YYD66B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fAx5BbRJYNJYY

I swore by this wrench when I was in the field. Was great especially when there are grommets on splitters or at the tap.

One of my rifles has a Diamondhead VRS and I really like it.

It uses a low profile barrel nut so you don't have to line up the holes for the gas tube which is nice but then unless you already have a 1 1/4" crowfoot wrench to attach to your torque wrench you would need to pick up one of those as well since it doesn't use a standard AR armorers wrench.

At Amazon you have Wright Tool 1331 Full Polish Open End Wrench, 7/8" x 1-1/16" for $30.36 or Ampco Safety Tools for $14.98

FYI: you can get one that doesn't say Toyota from Amazon for $6.

For the money just get something like this. The 7mm wrench works on all TWSBI, Pelikan and many vac fillers (including the 823).

Acu-Min 51-1838 Open End Wrench, 7.0 millimeter, Steel Handle, Black Oxide Finish, 3 inches Overall Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W8C2F2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kfsYzb1AAAJZE

See if you can find one of those "throwaway" wrenches you get for furniture assembly, those usually are thin and light. Or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PTF9MY/ref=psdc_553416_t2_B000IBSEZ4

Perhaps you can get a single one.

Yep. I prefer them personally if I can get them


https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-9708-8-Inch-Fractional-Crowfoot/dp/B000LQDBXG

its $22 from Amazon for a [thin wrench set] (https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Thin-Wrench-Set-MM/product-reviews/B001PTF9MY). You can even make one if you have a cutoff wheel (needs to be as square as possible).

https://www.amazon.com/Ampco-Safety-Tools-WSO-4-1-Non-Sparking/dp/B00ON80UOG/ref=sr_1_21?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1474158690&sr=1-21&refinements=p_36%3A1253532011

You might have to come at it from below.

Alternately you can try a socket with a U-joint adapter or any number of tricky tools.

Sunex 97738 1/2-Inch Drive Jumbo Crowfoot Wrench, 1-3/16-Inch, Fully Polished https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074HN8BA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9CwCb74CPJ2A

I have a 1/2" drive torque wrench. This should work, right?

I have used wrenches similar to these. The ones I used were rugged enough.

Something I saw recently:

Amazon.com - $25.99 (C$33.05)

Amazon.ca - C$82.01

I also keep one of these, a little less awkward but I find it handy to have both

From the factory, the nuts on the leveler are 5/8. But if you buy the nuts at the hardware store, they're 9/16. You may also want a 3/8 wrench for moving the leveler itself if it's not too damaged (which it usually is). If it won't move, it's vise grip time, and I wouldn't recommend that on the floor of a pizza joint.

I use this wrench because it is both 5/8 and 9/16, guaranteeing I'll be able to move the locking nut. After you move the leveler, you tighten the nut against the bottom of the leg to make it stay there. It's a good wrench and it says Williams right on it. https://www.amazon.com/Williams-1727-Double-Wrench-8-Inch/dp/B002M1CMY2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497374969&sr=8-1&keywords=williams+5%2F8+9%2F16

Ohlins Shock Spanner Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GX9218S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MTJNDbDKDQJEN

The OEM one is terrible. It’s way easier with the ohlin’s spanner. It has teeth on both sides so you can push or pull.

Chandler Hardwoods is the OEM for Matrix Arms. They make some good handguards that can be had for about $50. Pair it with one of these bad boys to install it and that's that. My other recommendation would be a quality adjustable gas block.

Your mechanic is almost certainly wrong. It's the slave cylinder, very common in Miatas.

Any idiot can do it for <$50. I actually just took mine off yesterday to regrease the pushrod (chirp, chirp). The first time I did this, it was on an NA with no jack in about 30 minutes. It's 2 bolts and wrestling with the stupid clutch hardline. (For the more mechanical: replacing that stupid coil assembly with a SS braided line makes life so much easier for many different things.)

Buy a slave, a 10mm FLARE NUT WRENCH for the hydraulic line, and some brake fluid.

Read this: http://www.miata.net/garage/slavecyl.html

If you have no sockets, you'll need to borrow a socket wrench, some extensions, and a short 12mm socket. The top mount bolt can be had easily with lots of extensions, the bottom requires the short socket and perhaps a little torquing from above. The hydraulic fitting will be on there pretty tight, use the right tool (flare nut wrench). Bleed the hell out of the system when you're done, instructions are in the Miata.net link.

95% chance of solving your problem, and worst case: you spent the equivalent of a decent datenight on expanding your personal skills.