Reddit mentions: The best orchestral string instrument accessories

PICKING OUT A VIOLIN?

• Avoid your local music store if possible. Instead, you want to find a luthier - someone who specialises in string instruments like the violin. Such a store is known as a luthiery, but it's not a common term, so just look for your local violin shop. If there isn't one, your local music store may have an in-house string expert on their staff who will be able to provide assistance. Ordering online can be a crapshoot, and in general should be your last resort. Once you have more experience, you'll find that being able to play on the instrument in question before buying it is the ideal test for finding the right violin.
  
  
• If you've got a teacher, they can be of great help in selecting a violin. Often an experienced teacher will have a particular model, brand, or even luthier that they can recommend to you. They may have extra violins of their own that they're willing to lend, or have other students looking to sell their current outfits for cheap. On top of that, once you've got your violin, a teacher will be able to help ensure that your violin is set up right.
  
  
• If you're not 100% sure of your commitment, renting is definitely the best way to go. Once you're decided you're sticking to it and want something better, some stores may offer rent-to-own or financing plans that can put some of the pricier intermediate-level instruments into your price range. But remember - expensive does not mean better! Once again, the best indicator is to try it before you buy it, and you may find that you prefer the tone of a particular cheaper violin to that of the pricier ones.
  
  
• As a general rule of thumb - if it's hot pink, electric blue, or some other colour that isn't, well, wood - it's crap. As far as I know, the sole exception to this rule is Luis and Clark's line of carbon fibre instruments, but if you're ready to drop five grand on a violin, then you probably don't need any of this advice.
  
  
• Once you've got your violin, changing the strings is highly recommended unless you bought it from a store that already set it up for you. Changing strings isn't rocket science, but you may want to let your teacher or luthier walk you through it the first time. Some strings are quite expensive which will make you think they're good (they are), but remember - in the end, the tone of your instrument is primarily determined by, well, your instrument. If you've only got a $200 Chinese factory violin, save the evahs for when you upgrade, and go for the tonicas instead. However, if you've been playing for a while on a cheap, but decent violin and you find yourself wanting a better sound without the associated price tag, a new set of strings just might breathe new life into your instrument.
  
  
• What strings are good? Honestly, this isn't a question that can be answered easily, because the same set of strings will sound different on two different violins. In fact, some violinists may even have strings from four different sets on their violin! Once you're good enough, you'll be able to experiment with different sets and combinations on your own instrument to find what works best for it. However, if you're just looking to upgrade from your super-sensitive reds, most would agree that this set, the Thomastik Dominant A, D, G + the Pirastro Gold Label E, is the standard to which all other strings are measured.
  
  
• Not sure what a ball end or a loop end is? Generally, you'll want ball end strings, except when it comes to your E string, where you'll need to check your fine tuner. Does it look like a mini tuning fork? Get a ball end E. If it looks like a little hook instead, you'll need the loop end.

No problem!

I'm not too familiar with electric violins but you'll want to look into getting a shoulder rest. I personally like the Wolf shoulder rests because they're of high quality and adjustable. The Kun ones are shaped to fit on your shoulder a certain way but I never held my violin in that position so it never worked; they're also not as high so I ended up shrugging when playing. Especially if you have a long neck, I'd recommend the Wolf.

Tuning will work like any other violin, you can probably google sites to play the string pitches. I'm not sure if your instrument would come with strings or not; a tip is that with the e string, the thinnest one, use a pencil to get a bit of graphite where it contacts the fingerboard up by the pegs. Since the string is so thin, it's more prone to snagging and breaking but getting some graphite in there acts as a lubricant. Also, for buying strings, as a beginner I'd recommend either Pirastro Tonicas or Thomastik Dominants. The Dominants tend to be pretty standard but I played on Tonicas for a while and had no problem with them. Thomastik also makes synthetic strings which I've heard stay in tune longer, but they're more expensive, so that'd be up to you. Tuning can be tricky to get used to so probably the easiest thing to do is to get an electronic tuner and make sure your violin has fine tuners. Rightie Tightie (tight being higher in pitch) Leftie Loosie (loose being lower) will never fail you with fine tuners. :)

Lastly, I think you'll probably need rosin. Again, I'm not sure if it'd be any different for an electronic violin, but it makes sense in my head, heh.

Overall, there's a great violin forum that you can join for free and ask more questions and people will chip in. Good luck!

Not sure what your price range is or what your bf has but here are some ideas (I'll try to go from cheapest to most expensive) :

A nice dark rosin. http://www.amazon.com/Original-Hill-Dark-Rosin-Violin/dp/B000F3FQP6


Chair strap. http://www.amazon.com/Xeros-Anchor-Endpin-Rest-Cello/dp/B000FCJUV8/ (This is the kind I have. There is no substitute, if he doesn't have a strap like this then he really needs one. If you are buying one note that you get one with a circular holder for the end pin and not a V-shaped one. The V-shaped ones are for basses and don't work nearly as well)


Sheet music. I am a fan of the Music Minus One (MMO) series. However a nice anniversary gift might be duet music. I can help think of some good duet music if you want but would like to know a little more about your playing level.


Bow rack. I bought my rack at Home Depot and it looks like this. (actual pic, sorry no link) http://i.imgur.com/Ytww0.jpg They're just hooks, but I really like mine


Cello CDs. There's a lot of good recordings out there but that's for you to find, I can give some suggestions if you want.


Music stand. http://www.amazon.com/Manhasset-Model-Sheet-Music-Stand/dp/B0002FOBJY/ If all your bf has is a wire stand then this is a great gift. There's also stuff like pencil holders, lights, and other stuff that would make good gifts as well.


Cello stand. There are lots of stands out there, I highly recommend a stand that supports the neck of the cello like this. http://www.amazon.com/Stagg-Foldable-Stand-for-Cello/dp/B003ZUEQLG/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1343515413&sr=1-6&keywords=cello+stand




There are some other cool stuff you could get, but may come off as offensive.


A practice mute. I would suggest an ebony comb style mute kind.http://www.amazon.com/JSI-Ebony-Cello-Mute/dp/B000F3HK5U/ over a "tourte style"

A tuner and or metronome. I use http://www.amazon.com/Matrix-MR500-Metronome/dp/B0002F6ZJI/

A wolf tone eliminator. http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Cello-Wolftone-Eliminatr-Brass/dp/B003KWGW9I

If you can afford it, a nice set of strings would always be appreciated! This set is one of the better combinations around. There is also an option to buy a silk bag for cheap if you buy those strings, but even that would be a great gift alone :)

Otherwise, If he likes to practice in the evening, a heavy duty mute maybe? I use the Artino Cello Practice Mute

If he needs a endpin stop, the Dycem Black Hole hasn't failed me yet!

What kind of level is he? You could buy him some nice sheet music! Are you musical? Buy something you can play together!

Does he have a metronome? A nice mechanical metronome like the TakTell Piccolo would be ideal!

I used to teach violin but im in the other end of the city from you now.

If you can, try to have someone that can properly put some tape on the neck like the following picture. "A" is your 1st finger, "B" is 2nd, ..... There is also some full piece stickers that they sometimes sell that helps a lot and act like Fret indicators as there are no visible Frets on the violin.

https://www.amazon.com/Dont-Position-Indicator-Violin-Viola/dp/B0052FU602

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eZW2vaRFu88/Tk-eCzelbII/AAAAAAAAAXk/Wjn-MgAzsjk/s1600/g+string+notes.jpg


If you know your notes, the following will also help. The grey lines would be the locations of the tapes in the previous image.

http://takelessons.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/violin-chart-three.jpg


Although this image is just the G major scale, Each measure is 1 string starting on the the G string (the biggest string), being played open (just play the string with no fingers down), then the 1st fingers, and so on... The next measure is on the D string, then A string and finally the E string.

http://takelessons.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/violin-chart-one.jpg


I would say that most music schools are pretty good, I would suggest at least 2- 4 classes just to get the proper hold of the violin and bow down pat and get a proper feel.

If you feel confident for self learning, then that would be a good start. Make sure you have a tuner too.

You want a practice mute. Regular mutes are used in orchestral and chamber music to change the tone, but they don't really affect the volume.

A rubber practice mute is lighter, and since it dampens less of the overtones, it sounds nicer but diminishes volume less than a heavier mute. A metal practice mute will give you maximum volume control, but since it dampens so much of the sound, it can mislead your ear if you ONLY practice with it on. The Artino rubber-coated metal mute came out a few years ago, and it's supposed to give you the best of both worlds. I find that it has a little bit nicer sound than a traditional metal mute, but mostly I like that it grips the bridge better and won't vibrate off while playing, which metal mutes will sometimes do.

A practice mute is definitely something you should own. But I wonder, why don't you want to annoy your family? Unless the only time you can practice is in the middle of the night, they should just deal. Practicing is important and necessary to get better; they need to understand that. Plus, they have to love you no matter how bad you sound. Being self-conscious just because they might be able to hear you is counterproductive. I hope you're concentrating on doing what you need to be doing when you're practicing, and not what anyone else is thinking.

Edit: On a more positive note, my rubber mute was delivered today, and I love it! It allows a little more volume than my heavy metal mute, which is nice. I've found that the metal mute is overkill for most situations. Plus the rubber one is far less scary to use; my metal one always made me a bit nervous since it could easily damage my violin if it fell onto it.

-----

Another week of the Suzuki Book 4 struggle. I don't know if I can say I'm at a plateau, because I am progressing, but progress is SO slow. I've been working on piece #4 since February! I can finally play it all the way through (took a while to build the stamina), but it still isn't too pretty.

More than anything I'm just frustrated with myself. I go through these cycles throughout the year where my energy and general motivation rises and falls. I feel like I've been on a low motivation kick for months now. I keep letting my dishes pile up in the sink, I have unfolded laundry lying on my bed, I spend way too much time mindlessly browsing Reddit, and my violin practice schedule has been all over the damn place (sometimes in the afternoon, sometimes at midnight like tonight). I really need to get back into a routine. The good news is that this anger with myself is usually the feeling that sparks a high(er) motivation period, so I should be getting my act together soon.

-----

Anyhow, here are some nifty links I recently found:

Printable Scales - PDFs of 1, 2, and 3 octave major and minor scales.

Scales - This page is nice because it has audio files for all the scales, so you can hear what it's supposed to sound like when you play it.

Online Flashcards - Flashcards for learning music notes! This is just the kind of thing I need to sharpen up my sight reading.

String Articles - Articles for/about string musicians.

Good job! I saw the violin on Sesame Street when I was really young and my parents were able to save up to send me to private lessons for most of my childhood. I'm no professional or anything and i really only play my son to sleep these days. But I am really inspired by your journey. It makes me want to play again.

To do something with it.

There is a point (you are getting close to it) where the instrument really does become a part of you. That is my favorite part of the fiddle, I can communicate things with it in a way that I can't with my words or work.

Just a quick recommendation. How you practice is how you play. If you want to practice playing with strength but without volume you may want to consider buying a practice mute https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B7N8P5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_D5eByb1636QF8 they are relatively cheap and you can play with the whole bow and all the pressure you want.

I hope this helps and I hope you keep going.

An old bluegrasser once told me that rhythm was his only stopper. He'd play with anyone who couldn't keep the tune or follow the jam. But, they couldn't keep rhythm, the whole group would fall apart. Feel the rhythm, keep practicing, and if you don't already, go find some jam sessions and join in.

Backstory: So I went into my orchestra class after school to pick something up, and I noticed a raggedy violin missing an A string. It turned out that there was a problem with all the pegs, a few popped seams, a missing fine tuner, and no how to play it with. My teacher was like "If you can fix it up, it's yours. Otherwise the Art Department will take it and turn it into a ghastly sculpture."

I'll be honest, at one point I had an interest in luthiering (making wooden instruments), so I figured why the hell not. My current one is barely clinging to life anyways, plus it's not even mine.

One of my friends was walking in as I was packing it up to take it home and she gasped "Peaches!" and looked shocked (think of the face people make when someone drops glass).

It turns out that "Peaches" was the name of this violin and it used to be hers (she admits it's a piece of shit but has a sentimental attachment to it), but I promise I would take great care of it once I get it to working condition.

Here's what I need to replace and my reasonably priced wish list:

• Pegs - Perfection Planetary Violin Pegs
  
  
• Strings - D'Addario Helicore Strings
  
  
• Fine Tuners - Wittner 'Hill' style Gold Plated Tuners
  
  
• Bow - D Z Strad Pernambuco Wood Bow
  
  

I have a few questions for you here if you don't mind. I'm a (very) beginner cellist and I'm playing one of these cheap-ass amazon cellos. I immediately replaced the tailpiece, the bow, the strings, and the rosin. I'd say the tailpiece and bow replacements really dramatically increased playability for me, though the base instrument is still obviously kind of shit.

What I want to know is, what kind of a difference would I see in being on an actual better Cello? Given the nature of the beast, it seems like i'm not running into the playability issues that you do on terrible guitars (bad frets, buzzing), and I'm not going to. I understand tone won't be the best, but I'm not certain I'm a good enough player for that to matter yet anyway. The whole friction peg situation is a pain, but the better tailpiece means I rarely have to re-tune at the head, I just get them stuck in the general area and i'm good for like a month.

Also, you mentioned putting better strings on, can you comment a little more on the difference between a $20 set, and say, this set of jargars? Edit: I guess you already did, What I mean is, can you describe the specific way cheap strings sound bad that better ones don't? I want to see if that's a part of my experience.

Also also, the rosin i'm using is still pretty damn cheap, and I feel like i'm leaving alot of rosin on the strings (a white cake buildup), but it takes really alot of rosin for the bow to feel sticky. Is better rosin better in that way? Do you have a recommendation on brand? How do you de-rosin a bow to get the chance to switch brands?

Thanks!

/u/DavisEcho is referring to a Tupperdor. Below is my standard recommendation, however it might be a little big for you. However this can give you an idea of what to look for.

The smaller Sistema, like the 1830 holds in the 30-35 cigar range and might be a better fit.

Sistema 1870: $20

• Check locally, Target or Home Goods might have this for less.
  
• Any of the Sistema containers are good options. They have clamps and a gasket in the lid to make sure the container stays airtight. Choose the one that fits your needs or a similar product. The 1870 will hold around 80 cigars.
  
  Boveda Packs: $17
  
  
• Choose the pack that is right for you. Personally I like 65%.
  
• If you go with a different size container, you might need to adjust how many packs you get. Remember to get the number of packs per the capacity of the container, not how many cigars are currently in the container. This page will help you determine how many packs you will need.
  
  Digital Hygrometer: HygroSet II - $14 or Caliber IV - $24
  
  
• Any correctly callibrated digital hygrometer will work.
  
• I have both of the above and they are good options
  
  Spanish Cedar Trays: $13
  
  
• These are not needed, however work well for organization
  
• Plastic trays will also work.
  
• If you choose a different container, make sure the trays fit.

I've also been playing violin for about 16 years. I stopped studying violin privately after I graduated high school, but played in orchestra through college while practicing a bit on my own. Just orchestra music and random practicing wasn't enough to keep up technique and I started deteriorating, especially in bowing technique. I found doing very slow bow practice and etudes (Kreutzer and Sevcik) on my own helped, but the most useful thing by far was to find a teacher again. I'm in grad school and have very little money and time to take lessons, but just going to my lesson twice a month, even if I've only practiced once or twice in between, has been really helpful and I've had noticeable improvement in the last year. As for practice mutes: I really like the one I have. It's metal coated in rubber and it mutes mine enough to play in my apartment late at night.

Lots of people like The Realist which may be what she has, but personally I feel like the Shadow SH-956 produces a better tone when played through a system. Hope that helps!

Go get your sound post adjusted. That might help it become more manageable with eliminators. Also, try squeezing the cello with your knees when you play the note. It's not the most ideal solution, but it works fairly well.

I bought this one from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003KWGW9I?cache=bacae8532cc2759f4a78c0fafe56edbf&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1407362686&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
(Sorry no formatting, I'm on my phone)

There are also mutes that hang off the string below the bridge that might be more appropriate for a really bad wolf.

I don't know why your teacher wants you to buy a new cello. It seems like you guys haven't really tried much in terms of controlling it. Try getting it adjusted by a luthier (not your teacher) and ask them what they would recommend you to get.

Edit: For some reason I feel very wary of your teacher asking you to replace your cello simply because of a wolf. Any teacher should know that a good cello will have a wolf and know what to do to manage it. I would be cautious in considering the cello your teacher wants you to buy...often when instructors get in with people who sell instruments they are offered a percentage on sales that come from their recommendation. I'm not saying this is definitely the case, but it's pretty weird that they wanted you to get rid of what is probably a perfectly good cello because of a common and fixable problem. If there's ever a time when you want to replace you cello, shop around yourself.

1.) I bought this and I live in an apartment with very thin walls and floors. Speaking too loudly causes my downstairs neighbor to bitch, as does walking around for too long in a single session (pacing on the phone for example). I've been playing with this mute for about 2 weeks and I haven't heard a word from her. It doesn't fit my violin the way it does in the picture, but that doesn't seem to matter..

2.) I'm a new player, I started about 3 weeks ago and I can play 5 or so Suzuki book 1 songs decently. I practice from 20 minutes to an hour a day and focus on very particular problems each time. I'm 23 and rather pleased with my speed of learning the instrument.

3.) There's a lot of resources online, and being a beginner I might not be the best to advise but here's some things that have been working for me.

• When starting posture and good habits are key.
  
• Be very, very mindful of how your hand is holding the bow, follow online tutorials from (there are several youtubers, professorV, theonlinepianotutor, 1stfiddlerman are some).
  
• Play in front of a mirror or a webcam, make sure the bow is parallel to the bridge at all points during your bow stroke
  
• Some teachers say taping "frets" onto your violin help you learn the finger positions, again, many youtube videos on this topic.
  
  Last thoughts are: playing with a mute is sort of depressing. It barely sounds like a violin half the time, and you'll hear the bow friction on the string more than some notes which makes intonation sort of tricky but it's not insurmountable and it's good to find a place to play without it sometimes

There's been some pretty amazing developments recently in this field actually. You can now purchase pegs that look like and are shaped like traditional friction pegs but behave like geared pegs, with increased precision and stability. Here's a link to one such example.

I can't attest to how much they affect the actual sound of the instrument, although I suspect it's negligible. My uncle had some put on his 1790s violin (I think because the peg holes were wearing out and he was recommended to try these rather than try to rebuild the holes) and they don't seem to change the was it sounds or plays.

It seems like a lot of people are saying good things about these, and I suspect we will start to see these more as they become more well-known.

I promise you that this practice mute is plenty quiet enough. It will make your violin softer than a spoken voice..

Just make sure to find good times to practice full volume sometimes as well so you make sure you're practicing good sound quality technique too :)

The set of Dominants with Pirastro E is standard, but you want to pay careful attention. You want one of these two:

https://www.amazon.com/JSI-Special-Violin-String-Set/dp/B000V6E01I/ref=sr_1_7?crid=ZT52RD2Z3UFF&keywords=dominant+violin+strings+4+4+set&qid=1564428453&s=gateway&sprefix=dominant%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/JSI-Special-Violin-String-Set/dp/B000V6FY8Q/ref=sr_1_3?crid=ZT52RD2Z3UFF&keywords=dominant+violin+strings+4+4+set&qid=1564428453&s=gateway&sprefix=dominant%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-3

But which one you pick is going to depend on whether your E-string is a ball end or loop end. You should be able to easily tell by looking at how the E-string hooks into the fine tuner. Like people are saying, by the time an A-string breaks, it's long past time to change strings anyway.

Be careful taking the advice of people who like more premium strings. That's a question only you can answer after trying many different setups (some of which can cost up to double the ones linked above).

Ooh, books! Right now I'm reading "A Novel Approach" to prepare to re-structure a unit coming up with my students. I'm presently looking forward to the latest D&D campaign guide, though... :)

UN: Shelbymcb85

Gifting : Codestones, wishlist items, dubloons and tea to celebrate achieving one of the more difficult/expensive RIC items I need!

Seeking: NC Wishlist is here and my tea wishlist. If you'd like to trade for any of those tea NC items I'd be THRILLED.

Unfortunately, the cost is still higher than purchasing a perfectly capable cheap student violin off of Amazon. Regardless, I used Inland PLA, which is $14.99 for a 2.2lb spool. Here's the total breakdown:

• Inland PLA - 1kg @ $14.99 (http://www.microcenter.com/product/434392/175mm_Blue_PLA_3D_Printer_Filament_-_1kg_Spool_(22_lbs)) = $7.20
  
• Carbon fiber truss rods (https://goodwinds.com/20143.html) = $15.99
  
• D'Addario Prelude Violin String Set, 4/4 Scale, Medium Tension (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002Y6BJI) = $15.49
  
• 1set 3L3R grover - style tunning pegs Tuners Machine Heads Gold High Quality (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0092M2EZQ) = $9.99
  
• ADM 4/4 Full Size Well Balanced Brazilwood Violin Bow with Wood Stick, Horsehair, Ebony Frog with Pearl Eye and Pearl Slide, Nickel Silver Mounted (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DW12HR8) = $22.59
  
• Vio Music Full Size 4/4 Violin Chinrest - Ebony with Standard Bracket (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BDON64Y) = $11.99
  
• Everest EZ Series Shoulder Rest for 4/4 - 3/4 Violin (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QJVTNA) = $12.99
  
• 
  ADM® 4/4 Full Size Basic Professional Triangular Shape Super Light Suspension Violin Case (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J1UXIPY) = $36.99
  
• D'Addario Natural Rosin, Light (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002OP0WC) = $3.59
  
  Total Cost = $136.82
  
  I used a MendelMax 1.0 with an E3D V6 hot end and Bowden extruder setup.

Probably weather related. I’ve seen this issue on some of the student cellos we have at the school I work at. Usually an easy fix. Also, you can buy a tailpiece with fine tuners built in for relatively cheap. It will likely improve your sound as well! As long as you’re not overtightening or being rough with them they should be fine.

Here’s a tailpiece: https://www.amazon.com/Wittner-Composite-Tailpiece-4-tuners-Tailgut/dp/B000LIC4HS

Also, if you decide you want to upgrade, I recommend Eastman brand cellos! Around 2k.

Your left hand should not have to bend to hold the violin. I would get a shoulder rest asap. There is a twist, and that is bad enough, but if you're bending your left wrist, you're signing yourself up for tendinitis or carpel tunnel syndrome. Good thing you're listening to your body and stopping to rest and stretch. But you'll be able to play longer with some support. Also, the shoulder fatigue. About 80% of my students love the Everest , about 19% prefer the kun and for my taller people, they prefer the wolf as it has screws for days.

I am somewhat confused as to how you could already be a college sophomore and have never bought new strings -- idk, maybe your teacher always bought them? It's just a bit unusual -- but that's a question for some other time :)

For my entire life I've been using Dominants for G, D, and A, with a Pirastro Gold E.

Most violins' tailpieces, including mine, are set up to take ball-end E strings: https://www.amazon.com/JSI-Special-Violin-String-Set/dp/B000V6E01I/

But if yours is set up for a loop-end E string, they also make those: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V6FY8Q

The G, D, and A strings are always ball-end so you don't have to worry about those, if for whatever reason you move to buying strings separately rather than as a set. The Dominants+Gold E set is sold that way because many professionals use that combination, but many others have their own individual taste, sometimes even by mixing and matching strings form different makers.

To know which type of E string your tailpiece is set up to accept, this article could help: http://blog.sharmusic.com/blog/bid/81287/Do-You-Need-a-Loop-or-a-Ball-End-for-Your-E-string

In my (very limited) experience, violin is easier, though I did have guitar/bass experience first.

As far as neighbors go, as long as you're not a jerk about it, like playing at 3 in the morning, you should be fine. I have invested in one of these mutes recommended in another thread. They are much more effective than just a plain rubber one.

edit: I also am starting at the age 34. I always wanted to learn, and decided to pull the trigger. I'm taking an adult introductory group class at the Old Town School of Folk Music, and I think the average age is upper-30s/lower-40s, ranging from mid-20s to 60s. It's never too late to start.

I highly recommend getting an instructor. There are videos and books for self-teaching, but personally I did not find them to be very useful- and it's easy to give yourself bad habits in the process. Your instructor can also help you make sure your fiddle is setup properly.

4/4 is standard size for an adult - she's not likely to need anything smaller.

(Personally, my beginner fiddle was a Cecilio and it was decent for the price. I don't recall upgrading anything on it-maybe strings? And a Don't Fret sticker, which I found invaluable as a newbie http://www.amazon.com/Dont-Position-Indicator-Violin-Viola/dp/B0052FU602)

Fun fact, I actually bought a miniture violin just like that as a "motivational tool" in my shop whenever someone starts complaining. perfect 5/7 would recommend for everyone.

incase you want one of your own

I got the fretless finger guide. Can be easily put on the violin and taken off without damage or residue. Stickers like the P&VT use can leave a residue behind. The fretless finger guide works great. I use it to kind of warm up and I hardly look at it after unless something sounds off. I say use it for warming up. Then try taking it off or playing blindfolded.

this is a good idea.

there are three (or four) styles of practice mute

rubber - works pretty well, easy and safe: https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-USA-Rubber-Violin-practice/dp/B00ICK6D9C/

metal - even quieter, but balances more than it sticks, so you have to be careful that you don't let it fall off and scratch your instrument while using it: https://www.amazon.com/Mudder-Violin-Practice-Silencer-Silver/dp/B01N0GKLZR/

hybrid - i don't have one, supposed to be good combination of the other options, but i heard they don't always fit right: https://www.amazon.com/Otto-Musica-Artino-Practice-violin/dp/B006GCNUHQ/

DIY- till you get one of the others: https://www.amazon.com/Natural-Wooden-Clothespins-Shirts-Sheets/dp/B01KGBP6I8/

this is like asking if a good set of wheels will improve a cheap car. a good set of strings will probably make it sound a little better, but no matter how much you polish a turd, it's still shit at the end of the day.

but like what many other posters have said, it really depends. i've had good experiences with the Helicore strings in the past and they are relatively cheap compared to many other popular string combinations.

Hi,
I have personally bought this carbon fiber bow and I like it a lot , from the Fiddlerman. I always thought that wooden bows are better, but this far exceeds my expectations. Even my teacher who teaches in a high school and plays in the local symphony thinks it's good for that price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0NZQHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is Zack Rosenthal from Shar giving a demonstration of different performance and practice mutes. I have an Artino rubber coated metal mute and just a plain metal mute (one for each violin). I like them both. The Artino mute seems to have the least effect on the tone than the metal one. It is best to go without a practice mute, but sometimes they are just necessary. Especially if one lives in a thin walled apartment building like I do.

If an electric violin is anything like an electric guitar, you would be able to adjust the volume on the amplifier.

​

As for mutes, I bought this on Amazon and it seems like exactly what you need. It dampens the sound. Like, a lot. So much so that you could probably realistically leave two adjacent bedroom doors open and another person in the other room would only just hear it.

I have this set. They sound pretty good for 120$

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EENKMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qceHDbQQG1RXZ

What sort of price range/brand might you recommend? Is "solid body" generally the quietest type of electric violin?

I already have an acoustic violin that I practice with at home, so maybe a heavy mute is the way to go if they'll be similar in volume. Do you have any recommendation on heavy mutes? /u/Yawzsheek recommended this mute, would that be considered a "heavy" mute?

Thanks I think I'll get some Boveda packs but what "gram" pack would I use if I am using 1 quart jars?

like https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-Humidity-Humidors-Humidifier-Dehumidifier/dp/B00TU03HU6?th=1

says "67 gram pouch" - what size pouch would I need per 1 quart jar?

If you're doing a classical violin, invest in a practice mute like this:


https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Rubber-Violin-Practice-Black/dp/B01B7N8P5A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483302604&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=violin+practice+mute&psc=1


It will mute the ballllls out of the music. And make your intonation better!

NSFWish: Digital art I made recently!

This would be great!

Learning on acoustic tends to start people off better. If the loudness is what's concerning you I'd recommend buying a practice mute for an acoustic and that way it's still very quiet but you can practice. I bought this a while back for while I was on your so I could practice in the hotel room, it works well and is very quiet.violin practice mute

You're best bet is this: https://www.amazon.in/Boveda-Large-Humidipak-62-Pack/dp/B00TU03HU6

Better than silica cus it won't dry it out. The 62% is ideal but if you can't get that get a close enough %. 2 way humidity maintenance is key.

I have the Artino practice mute, it's amazing how much sound reduction it provides.

Artino Cello Practice Mute https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001A5J2EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jpJOCbVEVMJPN

https://www.amazon.com/Artino-PM-02-Cello-Practice-Mute/dp/B001A5J2EY

​

I use this practice mute. Works very well! it lowers the volume to around conversation volume in your apartment. Highly recommend it.

I think many people use the Hill Rosin, and it comes in both light and dark varieties. I actually use both kinds, and they're both fantastic.
https://www.amazon.com/Original-Hill-Dark-Rosin-Violin/dp/B000F3FQP6

You could consider a violin mute. I use one myself and it’s working very good!

Ah sorry, I could've included those details. I use Dominant strings with a carbon fiber Fiddlerman bow which apparently has real horse hair.

Thanks for the advice! I did go to one shop and the cheapest violin that didn't sound like this was around $1,000. :/ I'll totally check your links out, thanks for those!

Good advice in this thread-- I would advise either a pickup that goes under a foot of the bridge, or a mic that clips to the cello itself. Here's an example:
https://www.long-mcquade.com/82202/Pro-Audio---Recording/Microphones/DPA-Microphones/Instrument-Microphone-for-Cello.htm

pickup example:
https://www.amazon.com/Realist-Pickup-for-Acoustic-Cello/dp/B000LQ3COE

If you want a more electric sound put your signal through a computer or pedals on it's way to the amp.

Nobody does it? Look what they sell on Amazon, and I've seen many self-taught violinists on Youtube use those for the first half year/year or so...

https://www.amazon.com/Fretless-Finger-Guide-Full-Violin/dp/B00E9EC2K4

​

When I started, my teacher gave me a little dot where the thumb goes, and that was it. After 2 months of practice, the dot fell off and then she was like "well, use your ear now..."

This mute can make an acoustic pretty quiet: https://www.amazon.com/Artino-Practice-Violin-Viola-japan/dp/B006GCNUHQ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0052FU602/ref=pd_aw_sim_267_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P6WX7TJQMH2DVHZJ7SBE

This is what I used as a beginner. Soooo useful!

I hear these Boveda humidity packs are pretty good . Haven't used them yet myself, but I'm thinking about trying them.

https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-Humidity-Humidors-Humidifier-Dehumidifier/dp/B00TU03HU6?th=1

Keep in mind you'll likely need a pick-up if you're playing with amped instruments. The Realist will work well for your needs: http://www.amazon.com/Realist-Pickup-for-Acoustic-Cello/dp/B000LQ3COE

I like the heavy metal mute

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Practice-Mute-Violin-Viola/dp/B00CICR3H

​

and the rubber-covere heavy metal mute
https://www.amazon.com/Otto-Musica-Artino-Practice-violin/dp/B006GCNUH

Not OP but I play the violin, get a mute like this one https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Rubber-Violin-Practice-Black/dp/B01B7N8P5A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483302604&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=violin+practice+mute&psc=1

I like this one

https://smile.amazon.com/Fiddlerman-Carbon-Fiber-Violin-Bow/dp/B00K0NZQHY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480906341&sr=8-1&keywords=Fiddlerman

I ordered mine from his website so I could customize the frog

There are note stickers for your fretboard though though (or just fret tape if you think that’s too much). Or you could get a tuner and look at it as you play and figure out which notes are where by looking at a diagram or something

I completely disagree. I have a surprisingly well made cheap violin (~200 $) that sounded pretty shit with some random cheap strings. I switched to dominant strings and Pirastro gold label E and it completely changed the tone and playability of my violin. The difference between good and bad strings is clear on any violin regardless of its quality.

Alright, I found my D (huehuehue).

strings!

Fretless Finger Guide for Full (4/4) Size Violin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9EC2K4/

Have you tried with rubber mutes? or even metallic ones? These ones reduces the sound even more

Having a wolf tone around the F#-G is fairly common as far as I know. You can take your instrument to luthier/reparier and they can move and reduce it by placing a small clamp on the string, discreetly below the bridge. Or you can buy one of these and do it yourself.

Also, check out this article.

https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-Unwrapped-Resealable-Protector-pre-Rolls/dp/B00TU03HU6

Dominant + Pirastro Gold Label E combo

Pirastro Tonica (cheaper but still great)

Pretty standard strings. Must be the angle or something.

Okay this is very, very weird. 2 things. 1, buy a practice mute. 2. Is your username in reference to the book by Ned Vizzini?

The best violin brand to begin with is renting one from a local shop. Preferably one that specializes in string instruments only.

I don't know if that's reliable for your area, around big cities teachers tend to charge more. But if I'm getting the exchange rate right, it's the low end of an average rate.

Practicing with a practice mute rubber only mute or rubber covered metal mute and keeping it to more normal waking hours should be fine. The heavy mute makes it so you can hear, but dulls the sound so it doesn't travel as far. If you're in a big city sometimes libraries have rooms you can practice in too, I've also practiced at Churches in empty rooms (they knew I was there) and community college practice rooms (they didn't...)

I -need- these violin strings: http://www.amazon.com/DAddario-Prelude-Violin-String-Tension/dp/B0002Y6BJI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2JESGT0ISX3UR&coliid=I1ZB0OKBC4VINK

I'm trying to practice something violin-related every day. And sadly my a-string broke, so I can't practice the actual violin until I get a new one. But I'm on an extremely limited budget right now (husband has been out of work due to an injury), so I don't know when I'll be able to.


Thank you for such a kind contest! :)

No problem! As for the mutes the quietest ones are metal, not rubber.

The heavy duty ones are like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Practice-Mute-Violin-Viola/dp/B00CICR3HG

I'm afraid of those metal ones because they are REALLY REALLY heavy. If you drop it on your violin you're basically screwed.
I currently use this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Artino-Practice-Mute-Violin-Viola/dp/B006GCNUHQ
It isn't quite as effective, but it feels less risky to use it.

I use a metal practice mute, but with a rubber outer layer to prevent damage.

I would say it's maybe 30-70% louder than an electric depending on which mute you are using. Just guesstimates, people are generally bad at comparing volumes.

Here's a recording of muted (this mute, different from the one I linked just now. this is a heavier one), unmuted vs the Yamaha YEV104 electric violin, which is not marketed as a silent violin.

https://soundcloud.com/user-924209568/recording-12


(pardon the crappy playing and the mic cracking on the unmuted violin, and also the order of playing, I only realised how retarded the order is in hindsight)