Reddit mentions: The best paper trimmers & blades

We found 125 Reddit comments discussing the best paper trimmers & blades. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 52 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

🎓 Reddit experts on paper trimmers & blades

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where paper trimmers & blades are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Paper Trimmers & Blades:

u/skittles_rainbows · 11 pointsr/specialed

Ok. Did some reading.

I'm not going to sugar coat this because well, I don't believe in that.

Welcome to the dark side. We have goldfish crackers. (BTW my roommate was an aide for 20 years and said that they are convenient because if they are attacking you, you can throw them at them and it will distract them for a while.) Invest in goldfish crackers and fruit loops. They make good rewards.

Buy this book. I really wish someone had recommended me that book before I stepped into an autism classroom. I reread it now every once in a while and still learn new things.

Start here. Go through the rest of her blog. Subscribe to it. She runs an excellent easy to understand blog.

Visuals are insanely important. Subscribe to LessonPix. Your school may have Board Maker, but I find it very difficult to use. Plus, LessonPix is online based so you can create something at home and then access it at school or vice versa. It is like $36 a year, which is insanely cheap. For my visuals, I usually put a picture with the word on the bottom.

You will need velcro. Do not buy it from a store. This is a wholesale place online. They have the cheapest velcro out there. I buy coins so I don't have to cut it, it makes it a lot easier. If you are going to cut velcro, get titanium scissors. They will not gum up when cutting velcro. Have a system with your velcro so you don't have random patterns of velcro. I usually do soft on a surface and rough on anything that travels.

You are going to need a personal laminator. My binding has the cheapest 5 mil laminating sheets out there. Use 5 mil for anything that travels and if its going to stay on a wall, use 3 mil. 3 mil or 1 mil (what the school laminating machine uses) tears easily and doesn't last. Once you create something, you don't want to lose it. Most any laminator will do. I like the Fellowes brand. This is a very good one. That my binding website has some awesome deals on laminators. Whatever you get, just make sure it doesn't need a carrier sleeve to laminate because those are annoying. Just make sure that if you from 5 mil to 3 mil you switch the laminator over to 3 mil and let it cool or there will be a burning smell. To save time I bought one of these. Just makes cutting faster.

Don't overspend on stuff for the classroom. Look at oriental trading post. You can find a lot of stuff there. Sign up for the newsletter and wait from a free shipping coupon, don't pay for shipping.

Get yourself a couple pairs of these. I like the 18 inch ones. Make sure your tetnus shot is up to date.

You probably need to brush up on your evidence based practices for autism too.

I know this is a lot of information. But these are all things I wish people would have told me before I started teaching this level of autism kiddos. I went into it blind. I've had to put all this together through reading, training, and observation. Its easier just to be front loaded with the information.

My first year teaching, I was put in a K-1 mod/severe autism class (your setting 3). It was the first autism specific class at the school. Nobody gave me any support. I had no idea what I was doing. I had very little formal training on autism specific teaching. It was like being sucked into a vortex in deep water with nobody around to help me. I didn't even know where to go for information. That's why I try to help people and be completely honest. I'm not trying to overwhelm you.

If you need help and support, let me know. My MA.Ed is in Special Ed with a specialty in Autism Spectrum Disorder. I am teaching a class similar to yours at an elementary school level next year. I'm really good at dealing with behaviors and data too.

u/ChefGuru · 9 pointsr/AskCulinary

I'll throw my vote in for a sharpening stone. If he doesn't already have a nice sharpening set, maybe consider getting him something like a nice diamond sharpening stone; I've seen them for $50 or less.

Tools are always nice. Here are some suggestions to think about:
~ microplane grater
~ Japanese mandolines can be fun to have around.
~ Fish spatulas can be a handy tool.
~ Does he have a good quality peeler? Everyone has a "normal" peeler, but I like to have a good quality horizontal peeler, like one of these, to use sometimes.
~ Does he do a lot of baking? If so, maybe some silicone baking mats for his baking sheets, or maybe some parchment paper.
~ Does he like to use fresh citrus juice very much? Does he have a citrus reamer?
~ Does he like to use fresh garlic? Maybe a garlic press?
~ Silicone spatulas?
~ Does he have a pepper grinder for fresh ground pepper?
~ Does he have a set of mise en place bowls or something to use to keep his stuff organized when he's working?
~ Does he have a scale? You can find plenty of options for home-use digital scales that can weigh up to 11 or 12 pounds, and use either pounds, or grams (if he's doing anything metric.)
~ Something like a good quality cast iron pan can be a lifetime investment, because if they're well cared for, he'll be able to pass it on to his grandkids someday.
~ A dutch oven will always be useful to serious home cooks. The enameled cast iron type are very popular, but they come in many different sizes and shapes, so keep that in mind when picking one out.
~ Knives are always nice. Paring knife, utility knife, serrated slicer, etc.

Those are just a few suggestions that popped into mind. Good luck, I hope you find something nice for him.

u/mmtb1120 · 54 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

Hello all, in a previous post made yesterday, I had replied with a picture of a drawer of my Alex 9 unit and received a few of inquiries about how I made my drawer organizers. So, I decided to try my best to tell you how I did it. I apologize I wasn't able to make a complete step by step with a ton of photos, but this process was done over a year ago, and I wasn't really planning on doing it again since I finished!


Materials Needed:

Ruler

X-acto Knife

-I would recommend some extra blades as well-

--Foam Board (the more the merrier)--

Flathead Pins

--Contact Paper--


-The blades become dull fairly quickly, I think I used about four during the process-

--I was able to get a piece for $.99 at Michael’s on sale

---I decided to wrap each piece with contact paper because it makes it very easy to clean. In my actual vanity, I used fabric and it has gotten dirty and damaged and I 100% don't recommend it--


Template Materials:

Copy Paper or Grid Paper

Ruler

Actual makeup products


Steps:

  1. I first made templates for each drawer. I found using grid paper to design the setup made it very easy, each block was marked as an inch. Using the actual product dimensions I was easily able to map out what could possibly go in each location. It’s nice to know that the height of a standard sheet of copy paper is the width of the drawers! Also, to note, I made sure to give a little space on each side of the product to give it some wiggle room. (The dimension of each drawer is 11.5"x20.5")

  2. I then used normal copy paper to make a full-size map of each drawer. Then using that I transferred it onto the foam board. Measure twice and cut once.

  3. Using a straight edge, I was able to make cuts of each segment. It's easiest to first cut the width of the product and then afterwards cut the height of each compartment making sure they all have a uniform width and height.

  4. After each piece has been cut, I went ahead and wrapped every piece with white contact paper. Contact paper has a sticky back that easily allows it to adhere. Also, the back has its own grid so it was easy!

  5. Once each piece was ready to go ahead and assemble, I made a new template. This one was to make a uniform depth of each compartment (my smaller compacts all had about 3/4 of an inch between each and larger had about 1 inch) A B. This also made it very easy to ensure I had a perfect right angle.

  6. I decided to use flathead pins to connect everything together. I've seen previous YouTube tutorials that used hot glue, but that can be messy and difficult to work with. Also, if you ever need to redo something, you don't destroy what you had done. I used two pins on each side which really anchors the part. I will note, the tips of my index fingers went numb from doing this so much, but the feeling came back…eventually

  7. Enjoy!


    Some other things to note:

    In my palette drawer, I created L shaped panels to allow for the palette to be better seen

    I also purchased from byAlegory a liquid lipstick and lipstick organizers to build around

    In my lipstick drawer, I purchased little glass beads to allow for the products to stand up better

    My paper towel drawer has a holder which I created using a wooden dowel and clay

    Also, I grabbed plastic liquid dispensers to easily get to my various liquids

    Managed to slice my finger open making little lids of acrylic to hold all my disposable paper products

    *Most of my other acrylic pieces have been purchased from MUJI


    I hope you enjoyed my ~teal battlestation~, if you have any other questions about it feel free to ask. And I'm sorry if it was unclear at all. And, I'm 100% aware I have a stupid amount of makeup that I've gotten over the years as a makeup artist, Sephora employee, and a true Make Up Addict.
u/Founders_Game · 5 pointsr/boardgames

I've got some ideas. What exactly do you need a laminator for? And are you in a decent sized city?

The Pixma Pro-100 handles cardstock perfectly. It's not going to be the most amazing print quality on most cardstocks. You need special inkjet paper which tends to be expensive. But I find it is more than adequate for my purposes using regular cardstock. I got mine on sale + a big mail in rebate that came with a Visa cash card. Overall I paid about $130 for it which is pretty good imo. I print on both sides of some real thick cardstock and then just cut them out with the paper cutter I'm going to link below. The other good thing about the printer is it handles larger paper sizes. I have 13x19 inkjet paper that it takes and the prints come out incredibly good. And that's a pretty decent size for printing the stuff I'm going to attach to chipboard.

(If you go the Pixma route, I suggest looking at some bulk inks. It has reduced my costs significantly)

I use this for a paper cutter. Works fine. You might do well to find a way to shine a light from underneath the swing arm to line up cuts but it's plenty good enough without it.

I use this corner rounder. I've done thousands of cards with it. Still good. I think if I had to buy it again though I'd look for something that was more like a traditional hole punch in using your whole hand. The one I linked gets your fingers sore after a while.

The reason I asked about where you live is because if you live in a good sized city, you may have access to fab labs. My public library has one with a laser cutter. It makes making tokens a breeze. And because it's at the library for me, it's freeeeeeee. Print on some label paper. Slap the fronts and backs onto a sheet of chipboard. Stick it in the laser cutter and voila, perfect tokens. They'll come out slightly singed but overall they're great.

How much are you going to print and play?

If it's not a lot, I would say just skip the printer. It's $130 at its cheapest and that's not even counting the cost of replacing the ink. If you're only going to print a few games and they're not that intense, just go to a local printshop and use their high quality business laser printers. They print super sharp into label paper and card stocks. Print the fronts on one, the backs on the other, stick em together, cut it out with the paper cutter. It's a bit of work but the finished product looks great.

u/hobbykitjr · 9 pointsr/DungeonWorld

So i haven't DM'd in years, since having kids. Decided when kids were old enough i would DM Dungeon world cause of its ease and flexibility.

Oldest is only 4 but hanging out w/ other Dads i was surprised at the enthusiasm to play D&D. So i thought, why not get ready now and invite a couple over to play a oneShot while the kids played.

I pre made some characters (some like 90% e.g. leaving cleric's religion blank). But also made templates if it goes well and they want to create or modify their characters.

Plan to make a GM tin too. maybe some mini maps/tokens. or at least GM Moves, MM cards, and spare dice, & tokens.

Edit: Wow thanks everyone for the positive feedback. Sorry it took so long (3 kids and my oldest is 4!) but here is the link to everything i made so far, I wish i could give credit to the character images but i just googled them:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1hxYY_MtgvOf9xTnGawrNFhdSkTIegAra

And here are the amazon links:
The tins (make sure its the big ones)
Mini pencils
Business card sleeves

Also i've had something like this for years for cutting straight lines easy:
https://www.amazon.com/Paper-Cutter-Automatic-Safeguard-Guillotine/dp/B0757DJR8J

u/thetunnelrat · 7 pointsr/boardgames

My group absolutely loves the game. We've been playing it for about 4 of the last 5 evenings straight. My one house rule is that the mission objective does not fly off the map (unless it is supposed to). I will alter it's movement to just skirt the edge every time. No one wants to spend 45 minutes working to capture a shuttle only to have the AI card fail it.

To anyone interested in playing the campaign I have a few notes:

  1. Use a professional print shop.

    OR

  2. Make sure you have a good color printer and buy some card stock to print the materials out on. Without looking I would estimate there were about 30-40 pages worth of things to print aside from the ~80 page manual.

  3. Have the print shop laminate the materials except for the player ship cards. Or buy one if printing yourself.

  4. On that note buy a paper cutter. Something like this is fine and it will save you a massive amount of time.

  5. Have a good number of ships. The last mission we played had around 8 Tie Fighters and 2 Tie Interceptors on the board at once. We have 4 players, and the number and type of ships on each mission is adjusted by number of players and average pilot skill. Now, that doesn't mean go buy 10 Tie Fighters, but you will need at good number of bases and ship cards. It doesn't matter which as you only really need them for their range fans and movement nubs. The cards included with the game will show all applicable stats. We usually end up with Tie fighters being proxied by Phantoms, Advanced, or whatever other imperial ships are not currently being used.

  6. Table space. As you probably already know X-Xing is not a small area game. With HotAC you not only need space for up to 6 players, their cards, tokens etc, but also a spot to place the AI maneuver templates, cards, tokens, etc. Out table is about 5'x3' and I needed a tray table to house the AI cards as the other game stuff had taken up all the space.

  7. Read the manual at least twice, and reference it constantly for a game or two. I noticed that I had missed several details (some important, most minor) as I didn't notice their importance until I was actually playing the game.

  8. If you have the opportunity TRY THE GAME! It's freakin awesome. My girlfriend has zero interest in the base X-Wing game, but cannot get enough of the RPG.
u/diabolicbutterfly · 2 pointsr/WaterdeepDragonHeist

Awesome, I invested in a paper cutter (like this) and print on 90lbs super white cardstock. The cutter makes everything 10x easier :)

The screen is SUPER easy to make and 100% worth it. I have yet to find a retail screen I liked and the custom screens I found were way too expensive :)

u/ComradeH · 1 pointr/weddingplanning

We didn't print our invites, but we did print our STD's, programmes, menus and hen do invites.

This is the card we used, House of Card, 250gsm, pack of 100 for £5.99. In theory, if you're having A5 invites, this will give you 200... or 100 A5 invites and 100 A6 RSVPS and 100 A6 Info cards.

The card is a really lovely weight - a tiny bit floppy if using as full A4, but at A5 it feels great. Not flimsy at all. And worked a treat with our basic old £30 from Tesco inkjet printer. Has a really nice finish too.

Really, it's not that much of a faff. Buy extra card so you can practice - and invest in a good paper trimmer and you'll be golden. I originally bought a £10 one from Argos - it was rubbish and made my lines wonky. This works great!

If using thicker card (which you'll want to do for the weight), I recommend only feeding say 10-20 sheets into the printer at a time.

u/Fatallight · 2 pointsr/foamcore

I'll give you some practical suggestions. Start with a box knife or xacto knife. You'll want several blades because the sharpness really matters to get a clean cut. You'll also want a metal ruler for measuring and to help cut straight lines. But even better IMO is to add a paper trimmer and break off the blade track from the bottom. It won't cut all the way through but it's way easier to cut straight pieces if you use it to do an initial cut.

Next, get some pins with plastic caps on the end (so you can pull them out). In addition to holding pieces together while they dry, I use them to test everything for fit before I commit to gluing. The glue I use it just some craft glue.

I got all of this and the foam board in one trip to Walmart. It's super easy to get into.

One more piece of advice: it might be attractive to make your first insert for the game that gives you the most organizational trouble. But you should really start small. You'll learn a lot your first few times and making a big game with a lot of pieces fit back in the box with an insert can be hard. I did Merchants and Marauders first. I forgot to leave room for the board so now it doesn't close all the way. Whoops.

u/bleuaegis · 1 pointr/papercraft

These would be super easy to make especially if you have the right machine - https://www.amazon.com/Binding-Machine-Manual-Operation-BUYOR/dp/B07GDXK1HB/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1541711463&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=binding+machine&psc=1 (Push down to create the hole punch and push back to open up the binding and slide on the paper.)

Based on your dimensions it looks like the previous person may have just been printing out 2 per page then cutting them in half. (8.5/11 page). Hole punching then sliding them on the binders.

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Now for the covers, they just look like clear binding covers: https://www.amazon.com/Fellowes-Binding-Presentation-Covers-52089/dp/B0015ZVXIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541711751&sr=8-3&keywords=clear+binding+cover

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And then if you want to be exact I recommend a steady hand or just a standard paper cutter. https://www.amazon.com/Firbon-Scrapbooking-Automatic-Safeguard-Cardstock/dp/B075NYWF5P/ref=sr_1_5?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1541711789&sr=1-5&keywords=paper+cutter

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You may have to recreate the file itself, but overall easy to do!

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Hopefully that helps!

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Edit: And binding combs, which could also just be cut in half with scissors

2nd Edit: The paper, I would personally use a cardstock for the covers, but that would generally be personal preference. The inside you could just use regular paper

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u/galaxiekat · 1 pointr/teaching

I teach 7th grade math this year, spent most of my career in 8th grade and high school. Things I use on a consistent basis that are not directly tied to my curriculum:

  • laminator. i have the amazon basics one, and love it. same for their pouches.
  • paper cutter i love this one
  • buckets for holding table supplies (for scissors, glue sticks, colored pencils, etc)
  • totally yes to the magnet stickers.
  • foam mounting tape--my walls are concrete, and nothing sticks to them.
  • mini fridge
  • doceri desktop (it turns an iPad into a mobile writing surface)
  • i have always coveted my secretary's automatic 3-hole punch
  • a comfortable chair
  • small trays [like these ones] (https://www.amazon.com/New-Star-44058-Baskets-10-5-inch/dp/B009G68ZBA/ref=sr_1_2?s=storageorganization&ie=UTF8&qid=1479943534&sr=1-2&keywords=food+basket). I use them for students to transport things from place to place, for manipulatives that are not always out, like unifix cubes or dice or playing cards
  • a box of plastic forks. it sounds stupid there are times i have skipped lunch because i didin't have time to find a utensil.
  • cleaning supplies. paper towels. lots and lots of paper towels. a broom and a duster. i dust/sweep while i'm walking around my room monitoring progress.

    there's more. everyone is different, and there are great suggestions out there. take inventory of what you already have and what your school is supplying you.
u/phynch27 · 3 pointsr/notebooks

The 110lb Index is an uncoated cover stock. As the name suggests, it is the same material they make 3x5 index cards with. There is no coating, so ink will soak into the stock and hold nicely.

The 67lb Vellum Bristol is coated with a soft matte. It is significantly lighter in weight than the index. The coating on this stock is fairly light compared to other kinds of card and cover stock, but will be more prone to smudging than the 110lb Index. It will still work for your purposes since the coating is light and not a glossy cover.

The weights of paper stocks can be confusing. You can find an in depth explanation of weights here and here. The main point being that each category of stock will have a different way of measuring weights. The universal way to tell what stock is heavier/thicker is through the metric grams per square meter (gsm).

I personally would recommend the 110lb Index over the 67lb Vellum Bristol. I prefer an uncoated stock when working with my notebooks. The thickness between the two stocks aren't terribly apparent at a quick glance (200 gsm for the Index vs 140 gsm for the Vellum Bristol), but you'll definitely notice a difference with prolonged use.

Most consumer guillotines are prone to warping and creating a non-straight cut due to the curved blade. I would recommend a rotary trimmer.

I hope this is helpful for you! Feel free to ask anything else that comes to mind.

Source: am a print services supervisor for a large retail printing facility.

u/MycTyson · 2 pointsr/MushroomGrowers

I do believe we all follow similar ebbs and flows when entering into this hobby or profession. As such I hope to save people time by adding more education materials to my site to help save the time required to get started equipped with the best and most relevant experiences backing them.

That said, $25 and enjoy: https://www.amazon.com/Swingline-Trimmer-Guillotine-Capacity-ClassicCut/dp/B016LDV41S?ref_=Oct_CABSellerC_490584011_0&pf_rd_p=74f1a79c-8a94-5d1a-90dd-007848cbf75f&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-6&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_i=490584011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=JQKVXQQEZNTVTMT215R8&pf_rd_r=JQKVXQQEZNTVTMT215R8&pf_rd_p=74f1a79c-8a94-5d1a-90dd-007848cbf75f

u/TubbyandthePoo-Bah · 2 pointsr/saplings

I like having absolute control over my grind. I find different grinders grind herb to dust or leave it quite chunky. The space case is a chunky grind, and my easyleaf mashes anything but wet bud into powder. Those plastic grinders with the pyramid teeth just mash the herb and gum up first session.

Another reason is the scissors are much easier to clean. Grinders get filled with gunk unless you keep them good and clean - just like scissors. The scissors just require a whip over with a blade. With a grinder you have to pick around the teeth, it's nowhere near as bad if you only grind properly dried bud. However, I've also had problems with properly cured resinous trees.

The only thing I don't like is how long it takes to chop with the scissors, and the dreaded knuckle ache.

I'm thinking of getting a Russell Hobbs mini chopper as a decent halfway house - quick, easy to clean, and controllable. I have one in the kitchen, but if I were caught experimenting there would be some very harsh words in my direction.

E: Vis scissors I'm a believer in a very short blade (oh that's what they're called) and a long handle, more leverage means less stress on your finger and thumb. A nice pointed blade like the ones you're using helps with gunk buildup too.

Instead of scissors you could use those tiny trimming shears, or a bigger bowl and a pair of pruning shears. You could go for hours with a pair of those.

u/LALocal305 · 1 pointr/crafts

Thanks for the feedback!

Do you have any opinions on which guillotine paper cutter would be good? I see this one. Is Fiskars a good brand? She currently has one of the little sliding paper cutters but mentioned she didn't like it so maybe a guillotine type cutter would be better for her. I actually wouldn't mind getting into scrapbooking so maybe I should go with a guillotine so it'll be a gift for both of us :)

u/Luke_Matthews · 6 pointsr/boardgames

The Logan Foamwerks Straight Cutter has been a godsend for me for making inserts. It cuts straight and square in a single pass, and the blades last exponentially longer than normal XActo blades. It's fantastic.

If you're picking one up tomorrow, I strongly suggest also grabbing an Adapt-A-Rule along with it. The Adapt-A-Rule has a channel that the Logan cutters fit into that guides them, ensuring a perfectly straight cut.

I consider those two tools an absolute necessity.

u/40mphCouchPotato · 1 pointr/Teachers

Things I use teacher money for:
Post-It Easel Pads

Flip Chart Paper Also comes in 1-inch grid


Flip chart easels to use with the pads so you can use them anywhere in the room

Thin markers and thick ones

Construction paper

Colored printer paper (i.e. astrobrights)

write and wipe pockets

Organization - file folders, hanging folders, and mobile drawer units

Scissors, pens, rulers

A scanner
Flash drives

Classroom laminator and associated supplies

Paper trimmer

Misc project supplies or manipulatives

A large world map and a map of the US

I'm sure there's more but I'm pretty sure I already spent all of your money :)

u/FatePlaysChess · 1 pointr/notebooks

Thank you so much for your thorough reply! This was immensely helpful; I never knew that there was so much to learn about paper! 110lb Index it is!

I'll be sure to get a rotary trimmer as well.

Is there much of a difference other than sheet capacity between the rotary cutter you recommended and a cheaper one? (e.g.http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Titanium-SureCut-Trimmer-01-005454/dp/B003SLC3IU/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1457236889&sr=8-11&keywords=rotary+paper+trimmer)

Also, sorry for all the paper questions, but do you think 80lb cover paper would be better? Or is that coated and therefore unsuitable? http://www.amazon.com/Hammermill-Color-Digital-Sheets-120023/dp/B000J0C47S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457238143&sr=8-1&keywords=80lb+cover

Thank you for your time!

u/gengelstein · 1 pointr/tabletopgamedesign

I usually just start with basic 110lb cardstock. This is commonly available at Staples and other sources, and is easy to run through almost any printer.

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https://www.staples.com/Staples-Card-Stock/product_SS992807

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Once things are a little more stable you can either print onto label stock and put it onto mat board, or just print onto regular paper and use a spray adhesive like this:

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https://www.uline.com/BL_773/3M-Light-Duty-Aerosols

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For cutting, you can use an xacto knife and a metal ruler. But if you're going to be cutting a lot, it's worth investing in a rotary cutter like this:

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https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Rotary-Paper-Trimmer-18inch/dp/B0006HV9O8

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That Carl rotary trimmer is by far the most useful thing I have ever purchased to help me with game prototypes.

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u/Thespeckledkat · 2 pointsr/bookbinding

My husband treated me to a guillotine similar to this only larger, years ago when I got into paper hobbies. It works really really well! I don't use it for the books that I sell, as I deckle edge those, but I use it for all kinds of other projects. Just make sure you line things up properly and you'll be good to go :)

u/wespor · 3 pointsr/BookArtsSection

With the laser cutter I was just playing with the settings myself, I could cut 5 sheets at a time with clean (though brown) edges but anything more and it would start to burn. If it were my own laser, I wouldn't mind so much and I could set up multiple stacks of paper with registration lines but I was on borrowed time.

That trimmer you linked is an idea, I have a fancy Rotatrim I could use like that, it will just be time consuming. Time isn't a big problem for this project obviously, I only need to make one book and I'm not selling anything but I like to think in terms of production. I will have to look around town for a clicker, it seems like an invaluable tool for book art, especially when you think about stamping covers.

u/ninetynein · 4 pointsr/PenTurning

Pen turning is an excellent hobby! For making pens, some things you'll need might include:

  • pen blanks, a pen kit, and bushings for that specific kit

  • a way to drill the blank to glue in the inserts. If you don't have a drill press, then you can drill on your lathe with a chuck, a face plate, and a way to hold the blanks like some pen jaws. If you do have a drill press, then to ensure that you're drilling vertically, some people use a pen vice

  • Once the blank is drilled and the insert is glued in, you need to to trim it with a barrel trimmer

  • then you put it on your lathe by putting the bushings on either side of the blanks, and sliding the whole thing on a mandrel

  • Then you turn it, finish it, and assemble it. Some people use a pen press

    Note: Of course there are a million ways to do everything. I don't promote any of the links, they're just examples to show what the tools look like.
u/alraban · 1 pointr/minimalism

I've had mine for a few years (didn't buy it for my current project), but I think it was this one or something like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01174H37K/

Mine is by no means a high quality cutter (it's a little off true), but with a little caution it works fast and easy. Just make sure you get one that's fairly large (the little ones intended for cutting four or five sheets at a time will not work. Any A4 or larger guillotine cutter should work with a little fiddling.

Based on the middling reviews on mine, you might be better off with this one: https://www.amazon.com/HFS-Heavy-Guillotine-Paper-Cutter/dp/B00NO7PYYI/

u/kevinb9n · 2 pointsr/boardgames

Once laminating you'll need a paper trimmer too. The $10 kind work fine (this is mine https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUB5MY5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but there are a hundred like it)

Tip: get both regular and matte laminating pouches. The regular keeps your colors bright and text super clear, but if it's something that lays flat on the table, the glare will kill you! Plus the matte finish feels ridiculously cool.

u/Thergood · 1 pointr/mattcolville

I use a combination of techniques. 3D printed dungeon tiles, dry erase flip mat and tiles. If there is a nice pre-existing gridded map I want to use then I will print it at home.

I use a relatively cheap Ink Jet printer and I added a "continuous ink supply" system (CISS) purchased off eBay. It has paid for itself many times over.

I print the maps full size on many letter sized sheets. Trim the edges as necessary using a ruler and utility knife or something like This.

Next I will use small pieces of Post-It tape to hold the pieces together from the front side.

Finally, I flip the whole thing over and use packing tape along the seams on the back of the map. Then the Post-it tape can be easily removed without tearing up the map or messing with the images at all. You can follow-up by running a glue pen inside the overlap from the top of the map if you wish.

It sounds like a lot of work, but I can generally do a map that spans 8 pages in about 30 min from PC to finished paper map. It's much cheaper then printing at a print shop. After 2 or 3 maps the CISS and supplies pay for themselves. I try to reserve this for larger areas or maps that might be reusable.

Many map makers on Patreon also make modular systems, like forests, cities, etc. I print these out and glue them to 8" x 8" pieces of chipboard or cereal box. They can go together any way you want.

u/TheKmartfetus · 1 pointr/legendarymarvel

We use a guillotine cutter for cutting dividers:
Swingline Paper Trimmer, Guillotine Paper Cutter, 12 inches Cut Length, 10 Sheet Capacity, ClassicCut Lite (9312) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016LDV41S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VDPCDbA5AQYY7

It's definitely not a necessary purchase, but it makes cutting them super easy. It can also be used for other craft projects.

u/Ceilidh_ · 2 pointsr/BrushCalligraphy

I know you said you can’t be trusted with scissors, BUT... if you’re going to be doing a lot of smaller sized work, you might be pleasantly surprised at how user friendly paper trimmers have gotten to be. Fiskars makes a really nice one that cuts paper up to 12”x12”, has a self-sharpening blade, measuring grid (premarked for 4x6 and 5x7’s) and a groovy mechanism that ensures a completely straight cut. It sells on Amazon for $21. It will cut up to 5 sheets of regular paper at a time but can also handle stuff like card stock.
Fiskars 152490-1004 SureCut Deluxe Craft Paper Trimmer, 12 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038F1A0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bP.CDb5F34YYF

u/facewhatface · 2 pointsr/boardgames

I trimmed about an inch off the top of some Dragon Shield sleeves for Burgle Bros, and I definitely recommend one of these to help with precision.

u/NimaSan · 2 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

It was this model I got to trim the edges of the books I make. Tabletop and hand levered, great for small at home projects.

u/LemonUdon · 2 pointsr/graphic_design

Are you looking for a guillotine style cutter? I currently use this one. A friend and I bought it several years ago when we did a lot of bookbinding, to help cut stacks of paper. So far, haven’t had any issues with it. I will say that it’s pretty heavy, so not great if you need something that can be easily transported around.

Should be able to cut thru 400 sheets according to the manufacturer. Highest we ever needed to go was ~250.

u/thedeanorama · 2 pointsr/Amiibomb

To further save you from future heartache, I strongly suggest something like this. There are cheaper varieties, but this happens to be the one I have kicking around thanks to a crafty wife.

u/simsarah · 7 pointsr/weddingplanning

I would recommend against a guillotine style cutter for this kind of work, it's very easy to get a slightly curved line on them if you aren't careful - one of the craft cutters would probably be better... something like http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-SureCut-Deluxe-Trimmer-152490-1004/dp/B0038F1A0S/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1396231676&sr=8-8&keywords=paper+trimmer

u/dildo_cd0 · 1 pointr/notebooks

I'll try and get some other pics up.

They're 20 sheets, so 40 total pages.

I use a paper cutter like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038F1A0S?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02

I also use a long-reach stapler, and the corner chomper I referenced in the comments.

Yours look good! You just need to make the corners and edges a bit neater and you're there.

u/Darth_Meatloaf · 5 pointsr/boardgames

So I posted a 2-picture album yesterday of my World of Warcraft: The Board Game box both before and after I made tuck boxes for all of the cards. (link)

I got a lot of questions about what I used and how I did it, so I decided to do a small how-to covering the assembly of tuck boxes for your various games.

If you guys have any questions, please feel free to ask. I'll be posting some additional information shortly.

EDIT: I'm aware that BGG has a repository of tuck box images for download - print, cut and done. I put this up because most of the tuck box patterns on BGG are for cards without sleeves, and figured that knowing what tools to use would be helpful.

Speaking of materials or tools:

The storage containers I use for the tokens in WoW:TBG

The scoring table I use

My cutting table

u/TELLMEABOUTYOURDOG · 5 pointsr/Etsy

Buy some high quality cardstock, get yourself a cheap papercutter, a 1/8" hole puncher (like $4 after a Joannes coupon), and with a little bit of design skills you're all set to make your own hang tags! I usually attach them with some of that really nice little and silky looking embroidery floss attached to a tiny gold safety pin or loop it around anything with a loop.

u/MeowPrincessSandwich · 3 pointsr/RandomActsofCards

Welcome to the sub! We are happy to have you around!

I totally agree with all of the advice u/ImOkReally gave. I'll also add that a paper cutter is invaluable! I use one like this, but the cheaper version. I got it for $15 at Michaels.

u/accidentalgaleano · 4 pointsr/IndustrialDesign

Got an HFS Guillotine-style Paper Cutter for my gf - https://www.amazon.com/HFS-Heavy-Guillotine-Paper-Cutter/dp/B00NO7PYYI/

​

Handle swivels up and down, and it's strong, so you can cart this sucker around.

​

The arm pops right off and fits between the cutter and the handle when it swivels up.

​

Grid on the platform.

​

It's just a beaut.

u/Xonim · 1 pointr/boardgames

This is the one I have.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SLC3IU

Works well for trimming sleeves or cutting printed dividers for games like Marvel Legendary.

u/WhistlesG0WooWoo · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

I print my inserts using red river glossy photo paper (legal size for the universal game case boxes) and use a fiskars paper trimmer for cutting- this is much easier and quicker and is like $12 from amazon : http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Titanium-SureCut-Trimmer-01-005454/dp/B003SLC3IU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1459090730&sr=8-5&keywords=fiskars+paper+cutter

You can find cover art in printable sizes at http://www.thecoverproject.net/

u/MissyTheMouse · 1 pointr/RAoC_meta

He is. And I try to tell him as often as I can. He definitely needs to hear it more though ;-)

it's a hinged paper cutter. I have a hinged one and a slidey one

u/sk8brdr540 · 2 pointsr/bootlegmtg

There are a few things to consider. First, the guillotine seems great but it isn't very accurate and requires more work than you think (the repetition). Fiskars 12 Inch Recycled SureCut Trimmer (01-005454) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SLC3IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0n9CAbS90N938 This option is cheaper and more accurate. The blade is also easily replaceable. Don't do more than 1 sheet at a time. Can it be done? (Yes) But will it always off by a little? (Yes)

I have made extensive use of card stock terrain and have learned. There is also the high end option of purchasing a cutting machine but that is $100+ to get started.

u/MadMageMC · 1 pointr/videos

This would at least speed it up a bit. Also: I would love to see this attempted on some of the stuff over at /r/HQG.

u/timmit99 · 2 pointsr/papercraft

Look into getting a cheep paper trimmer/guillotine from amazon or staples. Allows for cutting many sheets at once and with easy adjustment for cutting all sizes. Something like this

u/bl1y · 1 pointr/tabletopgamedesign

If you can shrink down to business card size, you can find business card sheets to print on.

If you need to go poker card size, and if you don't mind a bit of tedium, get a pack of card stock -- I think I'm using 85lb, and it works pretty well. Print on that, and then cut them. I use this type of cutting board. It's a lot easier to line up (there's a wire guide to show exactly where the cut will be) than a traditional swing blade cutting board. Get a 40% off coupon, go to Michaels, and you'll have your supplies for about $15-20. Add some card sleeves if you want.

It's time consuming and boring, but it's probably the cheapest option. And the DIY approach means you can more easily fix things if you realize you need new cards.

u/melvinrdrgz · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I used Oracal vinyl and a paper cutter for the angles/straight-edge cuts.

I watched this video and it really helped me out + gave me direction with applying the vinyl, even though it was my first time messing with it on a bike.

Before cutting the pieces out of the vinyl roll, I used paper to help create a template. I didn't take many photos of the process, but I did create a "highlight" on my Instagram account (same username), showing a few pics/vids that I took during the process.

u/jarkyttaa · 1 pointr/tabletopgamedesign

I use this one and like it a fair deal. It can handle ~3-5 sheets of standard cardstock without a problem, although you tend to get weird edges on cards if you do that.

u/bobpony · 1 pointr/boardgames

I print them on 90lb cardstock. You can get a ream of the stuff on Amazon, it's pretty cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006P1EQIA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I cut them out using one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SLC3IU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not hard to do at all, just takes a little bit of time.

u/felinelawspecialist · 1 pointr/scrapbooking

I would invest in the paper cutter. They really are not very expensive--i have what I imagine is probably the smallest size and it works for my everyday crafting needs.

You can also try folding, licking the edge, and tearing paper. I do that and actually really like the soft edge you get. Just practice a bit and as long as you fold straight, you'll get straight pieces from it.

P.S. Here's a 12 inch cutter from Amazon, I have the same size but different brand. This one is under $11: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075NYWF5P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tFiYDbC67CWHZ

u/cerushin · 1 pointr/Jigsawpuzzles

I use these:
Elmer's self-adhesive foam board

I have a channel rail and cutter to make it fit.

u/Pink_Fred · 1 pointr/Ebay

I currently use a label printer, as someone else suggested here, but i used to print them the old fashioned way like I see in the pic here.

What I did back then- I printed it normal size, but I used a paper trimmer to cut off all of the excess- the paypal stuff up top, the blank on the bottom, and anything outside of the black lines.

u/anonymoooooooose · 4 pointsr/photography

> Although it does have his name huge on the bottom

I bet the local copy shop has one of these!

https://www.amazon.com/Swingline-Trimmer-Guillotine-Capacity-ClassicCut/dp/B016LDV41S

u/Oversteer929 · 1 pointr/gamecollecting

I started with scissors and it was a huge PITA. If you’re looking for the best option I would pick up one of these.

Swingline Paper Trimmer/Cutter,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016LDV41S?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/Uncle_Skeeter · 2 pointsr/engineering

Maybe instead find one of those little tables that are meant to cut long straight lines into paper?

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Swingline-Trimmer-Guillotine-Capacity-ClassicCut/dp/B016LDV41S

u/TheMasses1 · 1 pointr/sousvide

After doing some looking I found this (it also comes in a 15 inch model if you need something larger) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016LDV41S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n970Cb0ZQY9T5

u/delithug · 2 pointsr/AmazonTopRated

Or you could get this and a newspaper.

u/J517 · 1 pointr/SCREENPRINTING

I have a little experience with Stahls. I'm happy with them. I have more experience with Avery. I'm not happy with them.

For light duty cutting I use this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SLC3IU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But I'll tell you that it's really not capable of cutting more than 3-5 sheets of paper at a time if that. I cut single transparencies and such with it all the time.

u/horriblemonkey · 2 pointsr/howto

Ever try one of these?
Much straighter cuts and reasonably priced.

u/i_upboat · 1 pointr/papercraft

Sorry, the spam filter caught your link. Could you trim it down to just https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038F1A0S and post again?

u/mcarterphoto · 1 pointr/analog

> If I want to print smaller than 8x10 I need to cut the paper to fit in the easel frame. I'm assuming I have to cut it in the dark? Or should I expose just half of an uncut 8x10 sheet?

You can just use scissors, but a guillotine style paper cutter is great, or check amazon for the cheaper sliding kind. You don't need to cut B&W paper in full dark, safelights are fine.

I cut fiber paper all the time; I cut 8x10 in quarters or halves to start dialing in prints.

>Also do I need graded filters to put in the enlarger?

That enlarger probably needs under-the-lens contrast filters, unless it has a filter slot above the lens board somewhere. Filters are only for use with multigrade (also called VC) papers - which most papers are these days. Without a filter, the paper will be about a 2.5 contrast; filters give you lots more control. You can usually find under-the-lens sets used on ebay, but it's critical that they're clean and unscratched, no stains, etc. You can do split-filter printing, where all you need is the 00 and 5 filters (though if split filter prints seem flat, replacing the 00 with an 0, 1, etc. can help).

u/KnuckleSangwich · 4 pointsr/pcgaming

Hah, ok...I'll get a few more up before Christmas at least!

Ordered one of these bad boys just to keep this up for you all: http://www.amazon.com/HFS-Heavy-Guillotine-Paper-Cutter/dp/B00NO7PYYI

u/Molag_Balls · 3 pointsr/longevity

Imagine you have a piece of paper, and you want to use it for an art project. Obviously this project, in order to really flourish, will require you to cut the paper, and paste it back together in different patterns.

Imagine now that the only things available for you to cut the paper are expensive paper cutters that only the really committed or well financed paper artists can afford. You can probably still do your project, but you'll have to rely on big players in the paper art world to provide the resources.

Someone just invented scissors, but they're still sort of on the pricy side, and rather hard to use, requiring training and theoretical papercraft knowledge to use effectively. Nevertheless everyone is freaking out over how much easier and more precise scissors are when compared to previous bulky methods. Lots of new artistic avenues open up, but still only to the big players for the most part.

Suddenly somebody invents a cheap consumer pair of scissors and makes them widely available. Anybody can now cut and paste together all the paper they want.

Some artists are worried about the ramifications this will have on the paper art world, as amateur paper artists will likely flood the market with ill thought out artistic projects. The world will sour to the idea of anyone and their mother making paper art, and the doors will close on amateur paper artistry.

If your DNA is paper, the scissors are crispr, and the art projects are the results of synthetic biology experiments, that's basically a brief history of crispr/cas9

I probably went too deep into the metaphor, but whatever.

u/destructogrrrrrl · 3 pointsr/PlanningAddicts

I don't know of any stores, but I make my washi thinner by sticking long strips of it to some wax paper and using a paper trimmer to slice it down to size. Then I just cut it to size when needed.

This is the trimmer I use

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003SLC3IU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1453151039&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=paper+trimmer&dpPl=1&dpID=41g6f-hDWgL&ref=plSrch

Sorry for the shitty link. I'm on mobile.