Reddit mentions: The best passive components
We found 562 Reddit comments discussing the best passive components. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 286 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. EX ELECTRONIX EXPRESS Variable Transformer, 300 VAC Max, 0-130V Output, 3 Amp
- Input: 120 volt AC, Output: 0~130 volt AC, 3 Amp Slow Blow Fuse
- Max VA: 300VA, 3 Amp. Max (surge)
- A rating of 300VA means that at 100volt, the unit can sustain at maximum 3amp. If at 120 volt the unit can sustain at 2. 5amp
- WARNING: Most devices have a surge amperage (when first turned on) that is much higher than the device's operating amp rating.
- EXAMPLE: A motor with a 3 amp rating may have over 5 amp surge, and you will need a 5 amp variable transformer
Features:
Specs:
Height | 6 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Weight | 6.3 Pounds |
Width | 6 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
2. Joe Knows Electronics 1/4W 1% 86 Value 860 Piece Resistor Kit
- 1/4W 1% Tolerance Metal Film Resistors.
- 10 each of 86 standard E12 values from 0 ohm to 10M ohm.
- High quality extra thick copper lead wires.
- Each ohm value individually packaged and neatly labeled for easy organization.
- Sorted by ohm value. Find each ohm value quickly without reading color bands.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3.3 Inches |
Length | 5.7 Inches |
Weight | 0.05 Pounds |
Width | 4.4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
3. Gino Development 09-0123 TruePower Variable Dial Router Speed Controller for Duct and Inline Fans
- 120V 60Hz maximum 15 amps with built in fuse
- Rocker switch with off, full speed, or variable speed settings
- Plug your Router into this control unit you instantly have a variable speed tool
- Item Package Dimension: 6.4" L x 4.7" W x 3.2" H
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3.2 Inches |
Length | 6.4 Inches |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 4.7 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
4. Joe Knows Electronics 33 Value 645 Piece Capacitor Kit
- 33 of the most common capacitance values from 4.7pF to 470uF
- 15 each of 23 values and 30 each of the 10 most common values.
- High quality 50V ceramic disc, multilayer ceramic and aluminum electrolytic capacitors.
- Each capacitance value neatly labeled in a heavy duty ziplock bag for easy ongoing organization.
- Manufactured by Joe Knows, Inc.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Width | 4 Inches |
Number of items | 645 |
5. uxcell 5 Pcs UF-50B Clip on Noise 5mm Cable Ferrite Core Filters
- Product Name : Ferrite Core Filter;Model : UF-50B
- Type : Ferrite Core Noise;External Size(Approx) : 25 x 13 x 11mm / 0.98" x 0.5" x 0.43"(L*W*T)
- Fit Cable Diameter : 4mm / 0.16";Material : Plastic(Housing), Ferrite ( Core)
- Color : Black;Net Weight : 30g
- Package Content : 5 x Ferrite Core Filter
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Release date | June 2018 |
Number of items | 5 |
6. Cutequeen 31 Values 1% 775 pcs,RoHS Compliant Resistor Kit x 25pcs =775 pcs (0 Ohm - 1M Ohm) 1/4W Metal Film Resistors Assortment
- 25 pcs each of the following standard values:0,10, 22, 47, 100, 150, 200,220, 270, 330, 470, 510, 680, 1k, 2k, 2.2k, 3.3k, 4.7k, 5.1k, 6.8k, 10k, 22k, 47k, 51k, 68k, 100k, 220k, 300k,330k, 470k, 680k and 1M
- You don't need to read color bands,Each value is individually labeled and packaged
- 1% tolerance,1/4 Watt,Metal film resistors
- Quantity: 800 pcs (32 Values x 25 pcs).
- Lead free and RoHS Compliant;
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 1.10231131 Pounds |
Size | 31 Values |
Number of items | 750 |
7. Bismuth Crystal
- Related Products:
- RM-518,PYR-100,RM-375,CRY-100
- We cannot honor tax exemptions.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.9 inches |
Length | 2.6 inches |
Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
Width | 2 inches |
Number of items | 1 |
8. Cedmon 20 Pieces Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3mm/ 5mm/ 7mm/ 9mm/ 13mm Diameter Cable, Black
Package included: 20 cable clips, with 5 different size 3/ 5/ 7/ 9/ 13 mm inner diameterApplication Occasion:Clip them on AC power lines,USB cable,mouse cable,keyboard cable,headset cable,video cable,audio cable,data cableClip On Ferrite Cores:The core has small clips on it,it can be opened and clip...
9. Kathson Pack of 15 Magnetic Ferrite Core Cord RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip
Specs:
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 1.5 Inches |
Weight | 0.06 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
10. Cylewet 5Pcs 360 Degree Rotary Encoder Code Switch Digital Potentiometer with Push Button 5 Pins and Knob Cap for Arduino (Pack of 5) CYT1100
- Length of Shaft: 20mm/ 0.79in
- 5 pins
Features:
11. ELEGOO 17 Values 1% Resistor Kit Assortment, 0 Ohm-1M Ohm (Pack of 525) RoHS Compliant for Arduino, Respberry Pi Projects
- More humanized design with 50 pcs frequently used resistors (100, 220, 1k, 10k Ohm) and 25 pcs seldom used resistors. Color Code Guide helps you read the resistance
- Perfect pin (0.022 inches, 0.55mm), #24 lead SWG (Stand Wire Gauge), perfect for breadboard in electronic projects
- ±1% tolerance, 1/4w, metal film.
- With complete RoHS certification.
- Perfect packaging: Plastic case + PE bag
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.5 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Weight | 0.45 Pounds |
Width | 3.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
12. Parts Express 3A Variable Transformer AC Power 0-130 VAC
- Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
Features:
13. 1280 Pieces 64 Values Resistor Kit, 1% Assorted Resistors 1 Ohm-10M Ohm 1/4W Metal Film Resistors Assortment with Storage Box for DIY Projects and Experiments
- Resistor Assortment Kit - One set includes the most common resistor values from 1Ω to 10 MΩ, 1280pcs resistors with 68 variety values, 20pcs of each value, give you more choice for your DIY project and electrical experiments.
- Premium Assorted Resistor – ±1% tolerance range, 1/4w metal film and thick metal pins provides better temperature stability and a sturdy connection, low noise and high precision.
- 64 Different Value – The resistor kit include 64 different values, 1Ω, 2.2Ω, 4.7Ω, 5.6Ω, 7.5Ω, 8.2Ω, 10Ω, 15Ω, 22Ω, 27Ω, 33Ω, 39Ω, 47Ω, 56Ω, 68Ω, 75Ω, 82Ω, 100Ω, 120Ω, 150Ω, 180Ω, 220Ω, 270Ω, 330Ω, 390Ω, 470Ω, 510Ω, 680Ω, 820Ω, 1KΩ, 1.5KΩ, 2.2KΩ, 3KΩ, 3.9KΩ, 4.7KΩ, 5.6KΩ, 6.8KΩ, 7.5KΩ, 8.2KΩ, 10KΩ, 15KΩ, 22KΩ, 33KΩ, 39KΩ, 47KΩ, 56KΩ, 68KΩ, 75KΩ, 82KΩ, 100KΩ, 150KΩ, 180KΩ, 220KΩ, 330KΩ, 470KΩ, 560KΩ, 680KΩ, 1MΩ, 1.5MΩ, 2MΩ, 3.3MΩ, 4.7MΩ, 5.6MΩ, 10MΩ .
- Convenient Plastic Box - Each value resistor is packed neatly and marked on every row, the whole resistor assortments packed with a handy plastic box.
- Great Compatibility – Resistor assortment kit can be applied to Arduino projects and other electronic and electrical experiments.
Features:
Specs:
Number of items | 1 |
14. AC to AC Wall Adapter Transformer 12 Volt @ 1000mA Black Straight 2.5mm Female Plug
- SAFE - The 12V adapter meets UL 1310 and C-CUL standards ensuring a safe and productive work environment for you and your employees while operating at 120VAC @ 60Hz
- Durable - this adapter has cleared 3 foot drop tests, 10Lbs strain-relief tests, bend tests, and vibration tests to ensure optimal and long term performance for its applications
- CONVENIENT - The adapters cord is 6 feet long allowing for complete portability anf mobility across any work environment; Never be constrained again with this extended reach.
- Compact - measuring in art 3.2" x 2.4" x 2" this adapter can fit almost anywhere whether it be in your home office or workstation
- MONEY BACK GUARANTEE - If, for whatever reason, you are unsatisfied with your purchase you may return it for a full refund. We pride ourselves on high quality product and promise you the best.
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 0.65 Pounds |
Number of items | 1 |
15. Sparkfun 500 1/4W Resistor Kit
- 500 1/4W resistors
- assorted values including 0?
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 0.1543235834 Pounds |
Number of items | 1 |
16. Top-cofrLD 1/4w Resistors Pack 164 Values x 10pcs = 1640pcs 0-22M Metal Film Full Range resistors Assortment Kits
High precision resistanceClear value mark of each resistanceTaping package make it easier than bulk to countMetal Filmresistors assortment kits
Specs:
Height | 1.7 Inches |
Length | 7.2 Inches |
Width | 6.1 Inches |
17. Jmkcoz 1120PCS 1/4W Resistor Kit 56 Values Each Value 20pcs (1ohm-10Mohm) Metal Film Resistors Assortment
Material: MetalPackage include 1120 Pieces (56 Values, Each value 20pcs)High precision and stabilityEach one has label of different value, you can assort them easilyResistors: 1ohm to 10Mohm
18. Gino 10 Pcs Movable 7mm Inner Diameter Black Ferrite Core Ring Cable Clip UF70B
- Product Name: Ferrite Cable Clip
- Model: UF70B
- Fit for Cable Diameter: 5mm
- Size: 2.9 x 1.6cm/ 1.1" x 0.6" (L*D.outter); Color: Black; Net Weight: 111g
- Package Content: 10 x Ferrite Cable Clips
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Size | "2.9 x 1.6cm/ 1.1"" x 0.6"" (L*D.outter)" |
🎓 Reddit experts on passive components
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where passive components are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Well, breadboards run pretty cheap... And size matters here. Sometimes a smaller board is better, but a large board gives you more room to work with. So I'd recommend getting both! A small board will be nice for smaller projects, but larger boards will be nice for more in-depth prototyping that require more room to work with. And he can always use a small area of a large board when he doesn't need it all... but a large board won't fit into a small boat or airplane if that's what he is doing... So, at a good price, both can be beneficial.
Other than that, he'll need jumpers (male/female), and maybe a ribbon cable. Ribbon cables need a T-board (or equivalent) to connect to the breadboard with, but jumpers just plug into the GPIO pins. With a small breadboard, jumpers are favorable, as they only take up as much space as one pinhole, and they come in many different colors and lengths. A larger board can accommodate a ribbon cable and T-board more readily... a T-board can take up a LOT of space on a small breadboard REALLY quickly.
Word to the wise: if you buy a ribbon cable and T-board, you are going to want to know what type of Pi he has. The original versions had fewer GPIO pins than the B+ and the A+ versions. This means that a larger ribbon cable wouldn't work with the original Pi's. If he has an A or B, a 40 pin cable/T-board wouldn't work as they're designed for the newer B+ and A+. If you need help identifying which board he has, we can help you with a photo or a description of the board...
Also, a resistor kit and a capacitor kit would be good to have, if he doesn't already have them. Most projects require that you use resistors/capacitors somewhere, and the kits usually come with several of the most used resistors/capacitors, which should tie him over for some time.
Then you should get him an LED set. LEDs are nice because they can be used as a "proof of concept" tool. Since everything into and out of the Pi is digital, all you are doing is giving an item voltage. So it doesn't matter if you're using a buzzer, motor, servo, or LED... they will all work interchangeably. He can use an LED to prove that his code and wiring works when the light comes on... then, when it all works, he can swap the LED for a buzzer or something, and everything should still work, just with sound instead of light.
You could also buy him some sort of case, but these aren't always necessary. I don't use on on my Pi, and it works just fine... I just have to make sure I'm not shorting it on anything, or breaking it in some stupid way. These vary so much in design and price, I'll let you search for them instead of providing a link... just remember, like the ribbon cable, cases will obviously depend on the model he has.
Personally, I would stay away from potentiometers and photoresistors since the Pi only has digital inputs. Both of these items would need to be attached as analog items to work properly, and that means buying extra boards for correct functionality. The Raspberry Pi can not natively read analog inputs, so these items would only be frustrating to him since he can't use them without extra parts.
This should get him started in coding and prototyping. If he's looking for motors, servos, or speakers, you can get him those too, but they're not necessary to tinker with a Pi.
There are also kits that offer these items, but they're usually more expensive than they have to be, and they may or may not have everything you're looking for. Also, there are other places to shop for these types of things, but I use Amazon because it was the quickest and easiest place to search for examples of all of these things for this post. If you're smart with your shopping, you can get all of these items for ~$100, and might be able to have them shipped before Christmas... but you're going to have to hurry.
EDIT: Added links since you said you knew "nothing" about these items. This should make searching easier since you can actually see what I'm talking about...
Has he applied for any jobs yet? I was given one of those leather pads with paper inside and a holder for resumes (something like this) except it was from my undergrad university with their emblem. Definitely gives you some confidence for interviews and recruiting sessions. Also you can get him some nice resume paper to go with it. That lasted me for years.
I also enjoyed having one or two of these demotivational posters in my room. Depends on his humor and if he has barren walls like I did.
If you know more details about which raspberry pi he has, you could get some shield extensions. These are boards that expand its capabilities. There are also newer boards with better specs. Also with two boards you can of course make them talk to each other ;)
Depends on his area of interest and your budget, but you could get him some kind of [introductory FPGA kit] (http://store.digilentinc.com/fpga-programmable-logic/) or DE0-Nano.
Tools... so many tools he might be interested in. USB logic analyzers are so cheap these days and go well with hobby boards. Again not sure your budget, so you can go all sorts of ranges here (Open Workbench Logic Sniffer or scanaplus or Saleae Logic 8 or a china clone of Saleae Logic 8). Saleae or the knockoff I think are the better options for the software compatibility. He may be in need of a soldering iron or a multimeter.
Something else unique, you could get him a "gift card" (they don't really sell them) or an IOU to a PCB printing service. Ask him to design his own board and you'll pay $X of the service. You'll want to make sure he knows the price structure on the website because they charge per square inch and it depends on his design how many layers he may need. He makes the schematic and they will print some circuit boards for him. They won't mount the parts, just do the schematic and he would have to hand solder the components.
If he likes old videogames you could get him some old school USB controllers and tell him to install lakka on his rasberry pi, or just get him a new Raspberry Pi3 to dedicate it as an old-school console emulator. It is quite impressive how many consoles they have emulated.
And back to more tools... more micro screwdriver bits than you would actually need. You can get him a starter pack of resistors, capacitors, and other assorted electronics sparkfun. There are also so many buttons, switches, LED screen displays, etc. that he probably wouldn't want to buy on his own. Maybe you could get a container with an assortment of circuit components (resistors, capacitors, transistors, and other sensors). Careful! This can add up real quick. All types of sensors exist... ultrasonic rangefinder, stress, photocell, temperature, etc. etc. endless!.
Start small. It'll save you money, let you get your feet wet, and help you learn how to grow better, and then you can buy bigger.
My "starter package" is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWGYYWO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I4NY8KW
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F8ZQYHA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q2ER5C/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pots-5-Gallon-Soft-Sided-Container/dp/B002JUOWB2
https://www.amazon.com/FoxFarm-FX14053-12-Quart-Organic-Potting/dp/B001I49Q98
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Garden-Treasures-15-31-in-Rust-Plastic-Plant-Saucer/50445000
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PS4B08
So for about $420 (heh), you can get your foot in the door and start growing. This is a nice setup too, you can probably save $100 by shopping around, buying used, or doing-it-yourself. I've left off a few odds and ends like dryer duct, Fiskers for trimming, weed fabric pins for low-stress training, pitcher for watering, Mason jars for storage, but you can likely find those or suitable replacements around the house without spending money.
I also have a Raspberry Pi 3 ($43) with Sense Hat ($37) and metal case ($15) in each of my grow tents to log temperature/humidity and other things. I'm interested in eventually using the GPIO functionality to water my plants too. Not critical, but definitely a nice thing to have, especially if you're the hacker type. If you go this route, you might look at raspiviv.com too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6FFNY4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014HDG74S
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722L338Q
I'm glad I bought a good intro setup because I still use it now that I've upgraded. I now have a 3' x 3' GG Shorty tent with HLG 300 LED for flower, a 2' x 2.5' GG Shorty tent with two 400W Roleadro COB's for veg, and my "intro package" is now my germination/cloning tent (and drying tent too since several people suggested that too). Being able to have three tents (germination -> veg -> flower) working simultaneously is increasing my output quite sharply. I'm doing this to help a relative with cancer, so you may not need to go quite as crazy as I did.
You mentioned using 35+ gs (~1.25 oz) a month. You probably aren't going to be able to grow that much given the constraints of tent size and light wattage (plus being a first-time grower! You'll learn a lot!). So once you get used to it, you'll probably want to buy more stuff. Marijuana isn't addictive, but growing marijuana absolutely is.
Once you've got your hardware, the variable cost is seed (~$10), soil (~$5), nutrients (~$20), and electricity (~$30). From that, I'm going to estimate you can grow ~1.5 ozs (you can do more as you learn more though). So you're looking at ~$40/oz after you've made the initial hardware investment.
Hope this helps. Depression, cancer, and everything else can just go suck it.
Here is a copy and paste from an older post I had on it:
I basically ordered one from Amazon (well a pack of 5 I guess since that's the smallest they come in). This one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DM2YMT4
Snipped off the 2 extra legs that are supposed to hold it to the board since they just got in the way. Then I soldered the two pins for the push button directly to the PCB using the regular switch holes. (Had to bend the other 3 pins up or if the way but after that they fit great). My PCB was the standard Lily58 from littlekeyboards.com (not the pro) so I only know they line up well on that board. (EDIT: actually with this build I'm now using the pro, the two push button pins don't line up nearly as well due to the board expecting hotswap sockets, but you can just solder a little wire between the pins and board, so it works ok for the pro too.)
The encoder itself already fit through the switch hole in the case so nothing needed there.
After that you need to attach the other 3 pins for the encoder to the PCB. The middle one I attached to ground by trailing a wire from the center pin the the ground pad for the underglow on the top side of the PCB. I lined it up so it ran directly between the switches and it covered by the case so you can't see it.
For the remaining 2 pins I soldered longer wires and fed them to the underside of the PCB through the hole for the case standoffs. Still plenty of room in the hole for the actual brass standoff. Then I ran them to the pro micro and soldered them to pins F4 and F5 (which I'm pretty sure went being used)
All that's left was to add a bit of glue to hold it to the board and add the config for encoder to my qmk using pins F4 and F5.
I'm happy with how it turned out.
Hope that helps.
I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!
I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
It depends on the component. Resistors and caps usually either work or not, and even really cheap sets tend to be within rated tolerances. I just buy the cheapest sets of those that have the values I want.
Transistors and ICs will depend on what you're getting. Common and still produced values are cheap and easy to get. Again, just buy whatever's cheap and gets you what you need. Watch out for fakes or seconds when buying out-of-production parts like 308s or 3007s. Best to get those from reputable places (smallbear, Mammoth, etc), because they're expensive and it's easy to get burned. I'd really look at the values you're getting when ordering ICs and possibly transistors in bulk. Those parts are usually really specific to a build and buying a lot of values might leave you with a bunch of unused parts.
The Joe Knows sets are good, if a little expensive. They tend to be well sorted, which is nice, but not something I'm willing to pay more for. Like this set of resistors is going to be just as good and is significantly cheaper than the equivalent Joe Knows set. There's certainly nothing wrong with the Joe Knows stuff though - if it has the values you need at the right price, go for it.
You can also score some great bulk deals on ebay and alibaba, but you'll be stuck waiting for overseas shipping a lot of the time. I'd go Amazon for an initial order and then shop around when you refill.
Sorry about the links, I'm in the US so the prices will be in USD but that shouldn't be a problem. I really hope you find this hobby as intriguing as I do, I started a year ago making little flashlights and what-not and now I'm making motion detectors and all kinds of cool gadgets. If you'd like some guidance or help, don't think twice about PMing me! Best of luck.
First grow.
This took 2-3 months. Seems like I ran into a number of first-timer pitfalls along the way. Good learning experience though.
Can't wait. So god damn tired of shady, undependable hook ups.
Edit 2:
Photos of my setup.
Edit 1:
Some have asked about my setup. This is about everything. This is my first grow so take my suggestions with a cup of salt but this stuff has worked well for me.
Tent:
Zero complains. Very happy with this. It just fits perfectly into a closet (had to remove the hanger bar though).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U6WCMY
Air
Carbon filter:
The inside of my tent stinks. I smell absolutely nothing outside. Don't get caught. Get a good carbon filter. Maybe not this one, but something.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FVJK60
Inline fan:
I hand this outside the tent. No need to take up any space or add any heat inside the tent.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JQ14F8
Variable xformer for fan control:
This allows me to control the noise and airflow. Every other fan controller made the fan buzz. This thing is quality built. I keep it around 50v.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS
Circulation fans:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RTMD8C
DWC
Bucket top net pots:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049XIIGC
Air pump:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPEVMC
Airline:
The black just prevents light from getting into my res.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D4XTUU
Air stones:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050HJ7Q6
Check valves:
You NEED these. Many airlines are thin enough that if the power goes out or a hose becomes disconnected, capillary action might permit water to back-flow into your electrical air pump and/or just flood your room. Don't take chances when a .50 cent valve will protect you. There are some horror stories in the aquarium hobby about this. Note, even if the air pump is higher than your res, capillary action can pull the water up through the air hose. This is the same principle that allows 100ft trees carry water from the roots to the canopy.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00977J508
Lighting
Lights:
Word of warning. Start off a good distance between the lights and your canopy. These product more light than you think and I have burned and cooked plants from keeping these too close. They don't product a ton of heat or anything. I think it's just too much light if they aren't a good foot or so away from the canopy. I assumed I could practically lay LEDs on top of my canopy. Not so.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FGFLCXS
Adjustable ropes for lights:
Chains work, these are just faster/easier to adjust.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600
Tools
Temp/humidity sensors:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8
pH pen:
I used to do chemical reagent tests (I have tons of aquariums so I had it laying around). Never again. A pen is fucking awesome for dialing in pH every morning. Get one!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQISYQO
Pruning snips:
These are great. Sharp as fuck and solid.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SD76
Training wire:
What I use for my scrog screen and early training before the screen goes in. Also good for random shit that's temporary enough I don't want to waste a zip tie.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EXJ652
Nutes/Water changes
Pond pump:
This is another must have! I've been using these for a while now to handle water changes in my aquariums. It's also awesome for mixing nutes before they go into your DWC. I drop one in a bucket without a hose attached and then just dump all my nutes and such in. The pump does all the mixing. Then I adjust the pH a little. Give the pump about 10-20 seconds to mix my pH up or down in and test again. I don't have to worry my pH adjustment isn't probably mixed yet. I makes the mixing process so easy and fast. I also use these to pump out my res once the scrog screen is in place.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M6MSL0
Root protectant:
One of my early problems was with brown algae. This cleared it right up after a week.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IGFH3FG
Syringes:
No guess work. I know exactly how many ml I'm adding.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB3CV6
Cal-mag:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J2CUPW
pH control:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY
Nutes:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBT54
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO7U02
Personally I got a 301 and wish I would have gotten a 304... wish I would have made my ET a probe and not a dial gauge. I run it with artisan, but it’s nice knowing if something happens with the comp you can still roast if you want to. I also feel like there is a little lag in the computer so I glance at the thermometer from time to time.
I got an extra motor without the case as a backup ($20)
And https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XKDEVIQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Works like a charm
I went to 3 hardware stores before I realized there are inside and outside threads on the regulator to the propane tank... so you’re good there, I’m just dumb I guess
Lastly I highly recommend getting one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006NGI8VS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Happy roasting :)
Don't forget a speed controller! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
this one's highly recommended and people say it helps reduce the humming on the inline fan compaerd to cheaper speed controllers.
I'm sure the apollo tents are fine, I've heard slightly better reviews for the vivosun tents. This one's about $12 more than yours i think. https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Horticulture-Hydroponic-Obeservation-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1478889774&sr=1-2&keywords=vivosun+48
The Mars 300 is chill for the price, you probably want to want to get a second one if you're going to have multiple plants in that tent. People say 1 mars 300 per plant should get you good results, almost pushing it with two full plants under a single mars 300.
Also if and when possible, try to invest in a good pH meter. everyone recommends bluelabs! https://www.amazon.com/Bluelab-Ultimate-Solution-Measuring-Temperature/dp/B008R7OWJS/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1478889906&sr=1-3&keywords=bluelabs+ph+pen
I didn't PH at first and my plants were dying on me... turns out my tap PH was above 7.0 ph. the PH pen saved grow!
It is a good idea to do that with resistors. Here isa nice super cheap pack that will have most of the values you'll ever need for pedal building. They are perfectly fine resistors that will fit any builds of yours. I measured several ones and they were OK.
I would not recommend it for capacitors though because this kind of packs are usually (really) low quality parts. Can be nice for prototyping though.
He would skip sections at a time. He'd just go, "Eh, you probably won't need this." On the bright side, he was more than willing to go over the skipped material with whoever was curious. He even offered to teach calc 2 to a woman who was taking a semester off to care for her son. He's a great guy.
You know what, how about a bismuth crystal?
Pros:
Cons:
Hi Guys, Just a suggestion before giving up and sending it back, have you considered adding some clip-on Ferrite cores onto the cable to see if it suppresses the RFI/EMI noise?
I noticed the my Huion Kamvas Pro 16 cable doesn't have any ferrite cores on the ends of the cable but I personally haven't noticed any interference of ghosting and am not sure if the Pro20 cable is also missing them.
I did notice online that the Wacom tablets all have them on each end of their cables so perhaps they would help?
Amazon sells them in kits for various size cables, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWCSNW9/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1S74XD9IDUGLD&psc=1
I really think adding one on each end of your cables along with any other monitor cables you use that might be missing them will help to get a pristine interference free image.
I hope this helps, Good Luck!
The iPower fans seem to be junk. Here's the one I bought: a 6" Hydrofarm, 400CFM (actually an ActiveAir brand fan). Much better than the 175 the ipower 6" was pushing.
It's loud at full blast, and probably more than you need. This is good though, because you can get a speed controller to turn it down. The fan gets much quieter even at 75%, and I run mine at less than 50% to cool my small cab w/aircooled 400w HPS. You can get this speed controller if you don't mind a slightly annoying electric hum from your fan (I have this and sleep in the room with it at night), or you could get the more expensive variac controller that eliminates this hum (and probably helps your fan last longer too).
The centrifugal inline fans are much more powerful than the axial booster fans, and will force air through a carbon filter easily, so get one that is sized correctly for the fan. (heres mine, sized for that hydrofarm/activeair fan)
I keep a steady 78º-79ºF in the cabinet (2.5'x1.5'x4' grow space) with 75º-77ºF ambient room temps, and the air exhausted right back into the room (central air keeping the room at 76ºF helps).
That sounds about right. Even if it ends up not working out I would recommend you try anyway because your next project could be a success.
This will most likely also require soldering experience. I suggest you get a pack of crappy plated perf boards and a big pack of resistors and just spend an hour or two doing nothing but soldering.
The physical assembly steps could be interesting to live stream, but be careful because a lot of people will start making suggestions that may or may not be good that you would be better off ignoring.
I do stuff like this professionally, so if you have questions that aren't getting answered (or don't want to post something publicly) feel free to PM me.
Edit: Plated perf board that will work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Z7Y19F
Resistor pack: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L851T3V
Feel free to hit me up with questions. I have always wanted to design a sex toy, so I learned a lot of relevant skills, but unfortunately I have a job that uses all of those skills now and I am too busy to work on my passion projects.
Yes. With shipping it's $172. And you will probably want a US power adapter.
Still worth it. It's tiny but well spaced and usable. I've had an original bassbot and x0xb0x and would take this over them any day. Pots a bit flimsy but otherwise still built better than many others twice as expensive. I think I prefer it without the sequencer- less space and I have an engine that can work like a 303 seq.
Was considering saving for an avalon but I really don't like 303 sounds that much so this is a good way to get it without taking up space/$. Most of the analog 303 clones sound good enough to me so no complaints about sound.
you can mod them too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSebDXf9rP4
These are parts I use consistently in my labs
Capacitor kit
Resistor kit
Jumper wires
Bread board(s)
Larger breadboard. Recommended for larger projects but I haven’t used it too much. Best for large IC circuits
Multimeter. This has all the right features
Other things that can be useful:
•Wire strippers
•Pliers
•Electrical Tape
•Tackle Box or tool bag (to carry everything)
•Flat jumper wires
As you get into classes you’ll need specific parts (transistors, logic gates etc) but this should get you started. I use the things I linked in every lab weekly.
Feel free to message me with any questions.
I often use a surface pro 4 with aprs. It definitely generates some RF noise though not as bad as some laptops I've used before. Something as simple as a frayed or loose cable can make a big difference though.
​
Technically yes you could install a filter between the antenna and the handheld, but I don't think thats the road you want to go down. I would start by getting some ferrite beads (anything like this): https://www.amazon.com/Cedmon-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B07CWCSNW9/ref=sr_1_5
Snap them around any or all cables coming out of the surface, see if things work better. If one helps, try two or loop the cord through it a couple times for even better suppression. You can listen on your handheld with the squelch held open and see if the noise changes or gets quieter when you put them on. Also compare running on battery vs having the charger plugged in, sometimes one will be a lot noisier than the other.
Jameco Reliapro ACU120100D0531 AC to AC Wall Adapter Transformer 12V @ 1000 mA Straight 2.5 mm Female Plug, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B8861T2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_51v3DbGAW1DGG
This is an AC to AC adapter, but can’t guarantee the plug fit. You may need to do some surgery. If you aren’t comfortable doing that, I’ll keep looking for more of a “universal” option.
If you had the original and could post a photo of the label, it’d help a lot.
To drive one of those LEDs from a 9V battery you are going to need a series resistor for current limiting. The lower the resistance, the higher the current and the brighter the LED (and the faster you run down your battery). The higher the resistance, the lower the current and the dimmer the LED (and longer battery life).
I suggest you experiment on your kitchen table with various resistors and find the one which gives the brightness YOU require. In the Joe Knows Electronics resistor kit (amazon link), try 330 ohms, 390 ohms, 470, 560, 680, and 820 ohms. See which one YOU like. Then after you've picked a resistor value, consider that to be your "final circuit design". Build it into its permanent enclosure and hope you don't change your mind later.
Could you do this with a variable resistor and thereby, have a knob on your gizmo that lets you change the brightness whenever you like? Yes. Yes you could.
I bought most of the kits from Small Bear Electronics (the exception was the resistor kits). They are one of the only sources I've found for capacitor kits, transistors, op amps, pots, etc and they have some great stuff available.
Link to kits here
Spent about $100 but it took a lot less time than ordering all the items separately on Mouser.
I also bought a resistor kit from Joe Knows Electronics on Amazon.
Link to resistor kit here
I would also recommend buying a component tester, it's one of the best purchases I've made. It makes it feasible to pull all the components off of your breadboard and sort them quickly so you can reuse them. Also very handy in double checking a component value when you're building a pedal without looking at the color coding, etc.
Link to component tester
After seeing a couple posts of people's custom button boxes on reddit I knew I had found my next project. I've been doing quite a bit of Arduino and small electronics lately, and this was the perfect fit. So off I went to Amazon, ordered a bunch of stuff I thought might be cool / useful and started piecing things together. Took a few weekends of working on it here and there, the most time consuming part just being tediously soldering and wiring the 38 inputs.
​
Was originally going to set it into some sort of project enclosure, but ended up getting impatient and just mounting it to two pieces of plywood with some feet. It added enough heft to it that I can lift the switch guard and rotate the somewhat stiff selector without issue. Eventually I'll get a better enclosure for it, probably grab one off of Hammond mfg or get someone with a larger 3D printer to make one. The Engine Start and black/red button (that I'm going to use for quantum jump) have leds in them that I don't currently have hooked up to the Arduino, but once we get some sort of API into Star Citizen hopefully I can tie them to engine state and jump spool/ready state.
​
The controls are:
Power on, flight ready, 3 misc buttons, zoom rotary encoder, 3 misc buttons, quantum spool, quantum jump
Hat switch + center for shield distribution and reset, engine, shield, and thruster power switches, power distribution profile selector, misc selector
Flare Fire button, flare select, 7 misc toggle switches, self destruct switch, eject switch.
​
I mapped everything to a button in the Arduino code (no rotary encoder as zoom in this screenshot) so that I can easily bind to functions in Star Citizen. Unfortunately without an API this means the switch positions can get out of sync with the actual ship status easily. If by the time of release / they make an API there still isn't a way to read / set state by API then I'll probably make a new version with only toggle buttons.
​
Code Libraries
PCF8574_library for interfacing with the IO expanders
- https://github.com/xreef/PCF8574_library
ArduinoJoystickLibrary for emulating a joystick on windows
- https://github.com/MHeironimus/ArduinoJoystickLibrary/
​
Useful Instructables
Joystick Library
- https://www.instructables.com/id/Create-a-Joystick-Using-the-Arduino-Joystick-Libra/
PCF8574
- https://www.instructables.com/id/PCF8574-GPIO-Extender-With-Arduino-and-NodeMCU/
​
Parts List
1 Terminal Expansion Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PGDWJ2V
3 PCF8574 IO Expansion Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B95LMLQ
1 Rotary Encoder - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DM2YMT4
1 4 Position Rotary Selector - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JN2967L
1 Red Ring Momentary Push Button - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017ILTX60
1 Engine Start Momentary Push Button - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MK2394L
5 Heavy Duty Toggle Switch - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078KBC5VH
1 12 Position Rotary Switch - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074WMC9C8
1 5-Channel Rocker - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K5PFPNC
1 Arduino Micro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFY2S56
7 Red/Black Momentary Push Buttons - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BD2D96W
2 Red Cover Toggle Switches - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BD2D96W
8 Small Toggle Switches - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013DZB6CO
I’m not sure I’d call it bulk but here’s what I ordered: ELEGOO 17 Values 1% Resistor Kit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BL2VX1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
They come pre organized into little packets in a clear box. Super handy and takes up less space than if I put them in the drawers.
Hope this helps.
Ok. My first go at it was a DIY tent out of PVC pipe and panda film. It worked well, except near the end I did not have enough air flow, the whole things grew up into the light and went tits up.
I spent a TON of time designing what I wanted in the space I could fit it in. I used autodesk homestyler. http://www.homestyler.com/designer I'm not going to share it, because I didn't even end up using the design. I have a big ass pipe that runs though it, so I rotated everything 90 degrees to accommodate for it.
Here is the mini tour of my area. the drawing is in google draw and was to help me with my plumbing situation.
http://imgur.com/a/hTpgW
anyway, the main outer walls are cement or drywall. The inner is 3/4" PVC. If I had to do over, I'd go with 1" PVC. I started with Reflectix over the pvc. This was still letting some light leak though the material, so I went and put an inner layer of panda film over it.
The doors are pvc style doors for a greenhouse. I'm not too happy with them and I'll redo them at some point, but they work for now. Better than a zipper.
Electric. I ran a 20 amp circuit just for the room. I put outlets everywhere, but I still could have used a few more.. plan for everything, I put one outlet up high for a circulation fan, wish I did a second.
Plumbing. I ran it right into my res. I pump back out into the 3" pipe running overhead. No sink... yet.
Light is a 600w ipower. I'd probably go LED if I was going to buy again.
The system is a 3x3 ebb and flow tray. I'm running 10 plants right now. I want to just get a viable mother plant. I'm going for 3 strains, so I have to do it 2 more times. After that I will clone 36 plants in 6" netpots. One strain at a time.
I use the lucas formula for nutes with General hyponics maxibloom
http://lucasformula.com/
your fan looks good. I have one of these to go with mine: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BXJYO6I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I like nirvana seeds. https://www.nirvanashop.com/en/13-indoor-marijuana-seeds
Other than that, I would say make a DIY tent first out of PVC and panda film. Get 1 grow under your belt and then build something out of wood. Let me know how it goes.
Amazon prime works out really well for me in general. Prices are more than they would be if you ordered from a chinese site, but cheaper than places like Adafruit or Sparkfun. And two day shipping.
At this point, I always buy in bulk for the most part. Just makes sense financially. Also, it sucks working on a project and you are missing one component or value of resistor and you need to order it and wait. These are the things that it makes sense to buy in bulk.
I suggest this for a bulk resistor kit, there are cheaper options for lots of resistors, but its amazing how well it keeps them organized.
https://www.amazon.com/Sparkfun-500-4W-Resistor-Kit/dp/B008MH97I4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491070938&sr=8-1&keywords=sparkfun+resistor+kit
If the operator is a licensed ham and his station is in good operating order, there's not much you can do. All of your electronics have those labels on them stating that they are FCC Part 15 compliant - this means they must not create interference to a licensed device, and must accept interference form a licensed device. The law actually protects him, not the other way around.
There are ways to reduce the interference accepted by devices. Ferrite chokes are a common place to start. Wrap the leads on your speakers a few times through snap on ferrite cores (like these ). You'll also want to wrap a zip tie around the core, they snap on parts will loosen over time and the tiniest, tiniest gap renders them ineffective.
I have a link bomb of RFI prevention, along with some grounding things. That might have some helpful information for you. It generally comes down to applying lots of the proper ferrite all over.
The ham might be willing to help you correct the issue if you approach him cordially. Just nicely explain the situation. We may also be able to help some here.
>How wide is your maple? Something to consider: I have a 12" 5hp Belsaw planer at my shop in Hagerstown, I'd be willing to give you access to for lumber trade. Also, I noticed you need a motor for your lathe, I have 4 electric motors that I don't use, I think most have pulleys. I purchased this a while ago as a speed controller, it works great.
>Those slabs sound amazing. How did you get those milled?
I also have a 12" planer. Some of the board are over 18 or 20. I think I'll be ripping most of them down anyways. Thanks for the offer on the motor, I recently picked up 2. I just need to get a belt that fits now.
The slabs I had done by 2griffins. They had an Alaskan chainsaw mill. That was really cool to watch. If you ever want to come see some of it, let me know.
In the past I've used a large box type thing to control the heat output of my 1500w element. It got VERY VERY hot, and burnt out, because apparently i should have put a giant heatsink on the back (Why would it NOT come with one?)
Anyway....looking up motor controllers again, I see nothing but these guys. Rated at 2kw should be good for a 1500w element, but I'm not sure if PWM is a good thing, compared to plain old analog tuning. I guess it depends on the pulse width, right? 10hz compared to 0.1hz might be fine.
Edit: this is what I had which apparently is a FAN controller, and obviously analog (rheostat)
Hey! Here is a guide that will tell you everything you need to do and it doesn't require any electronics knowledge at all: http://www.stepmania.com/forums/input-adapters-and-controllers/show/5493
I made two of these and they work great. With the pinout, you're pretty much set.
The only thing that I needed to purchase that the guide was not 100% on were ferrite cores - I recommend you getting these. They are little cylindrical clasps you put on to wires that help with interference. All parts linked below:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FBVIJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUROWWK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Gino-Suppressor-Ferrite-Filters-a12071000ux1058/dp/B009ENG6TI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1474499132&sr=8-6&keywords=ferrite+core
If it could be used everyone here would use one and save that money. I don't like spending $25 on a fan speed controller either but it needs to be done. The $20 one sucks by the way, it makes your fan hum, get the active air brand it runs quieter or if you really want the quietest get a variac. But that's more money and you're looking to spend less lol. I can help you spend more but not less.
You don't need to do any soldering if you get the right parts. Get these leads to connect to the header on the rpi board. Then get these connectors and you’ll need a 4.7k ohm resistor. I’d suggest buying a combo pack of resistors and save the other resistors for future projects.
Pull two of the F/F leads off from the rest and cut them in half; you’ll use 3 of the 4 resulting pieces. Connect one of the leads to the Vcc lead on the thermometer probe (usually red) and one end of a 4.7k ohm resistor. The connector/splice is a T so you’ll use all 3 connections. Then connect another of the half leads to the Data lead from the probe (could be yellow or white or almost any other color) and the other end of the resistor. You’ll have something that looks like an H with the two leads with the resistor across the middle. The third lead from the probe will be the ground lead which will probably be black. This lead will be straight through just joining the
resistorprobe lead to the lead with the gpio header female to connect to the rpi board. The end result should be 3 wires terminated with the female header connector and the resistor between Vcc/Power and Data lines. Now you are ready to connect to the rpi board. Make sure it’s powered down and locate pins 1, 7, and 9. Look here for a diagram. Pin 1 is the pin closest to the SD card. Pins 1,7, and 9 will be the first, fourth, and fifth pins respectively on the inside row counting from the “back” (side where the sd card is) of the board. Pin 1 (first inside pin) will go to the Power/Vcc lead, Pin 7 (fourth inside pin) goes to the Data lead, and Pin 9 (fifth inside pin) goes to the GND/ground pin.That’s it for the physical connection. Now boot it up and see if it’s already working:
cat /sys/bus/w1/devices/28-*/w1_slave
If you see something like the following, it’s working:
XX XX XX XX XX XX XX : crc=51 YES
XX XX XX XX XX XX XX t=23500
The second line t=NNNNN is the temperature in Celsius out to three decimal places so 23500 is 23.500 C.
If you get a “No such file or directory” error then do the following and reboot:
sudo sed -i.bak '$adtoverlay=w1-gpio' /boot/config.txt
EDIT: found a mistake in the ground lead connection instructions
Hi! I built a Beavis Board about six weeks ago. Not terribly difficult to make at all. I purchased these on amazon from Joe knows...
Resistors
Capacitors
Transistors
The problem I have is that some of transistors aren't right for the layouts, the capacitors aren't film, and I couldn't find an assorted IC box.
If I had to do it all over again I would catalog all the parts needed for every project on the projects guide or see of there was a list of items the Beavis Board came with and take that to Tayda or Mammoth. It's a lot of work but will be better in the long run.
I'm definitely interested if anyone else has purchased assorted boxes and how that worked out.
Aside from the recommendation to shuck the drives (I'd transfer data off them one at a time before doing so), you could just put a box fan in front of all of them and run it on low. Or, any smaller "desktop" fan you might find in a local store or online. Anything like that should provide sufficient airflow to keep them cool enough as long as it's right in front of them.
It would follow the KISS principle, and it would only cost ~$15-ish
Oh, and if you want to be able to smoothly dial the speed of a box fan down to any arbitrary point (if "low" is still louder/faster than you want, which has sometimes been the case for me in the past), then what you want is a variac transformer between the box fan and the outlet. A little pricey to pair with a cheap box fan, I know, but I use that with one and it's quite nice since the box fan moves air while being almost totally silent, with no coil whine. You could do the same with a smaller turbine-style fan if you wanted something smaller.
I spent a good while in /r/vive before receiving my Vive. One of the suggestions that was made regarding the lighthouses and jitter was ferrite beads.
I am in a metropolitan area, but more importantly my subwoofer used to play what sounded like a radio station when it was not being used by my receiver. This lead me to believe that ferrite beads were a good investment for my lighthouses(to mitigate interference there). I bought this pack -
Ferrite Beads
I used about 4 of the ferrite beads on the subwoofer and it is no longer audible when the receiver isn't using it. I placed two ferrite beads on the power cords for each Lighthouse and have had nothing but good experiences with my Vive. Although I haven't tried without the beads, I experience no jitter.
I wouldn't have given this suggestion much thought if it wasn't for the fact that a Valve engineer actually responded and seemed to agree that RF can interfere with the lighthouses.
This is the thread I am referring to -
https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4ghqyc/strong_rf_pollution_from_a_radio_tower_might/
u/midwayfair mostly beat me to it.
You can get an assortment of topmany film box caps that will cover most of your foreseeable future needs for $15 from Smallbear.
You can also get an assortment of electrolytic caps from smallbear for $10.
[You can get a huge set of metal resistors with almost every value you'll ever need here for $10, marked with their value which is nice for initial sorting.]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J5M2G9Q?psc=1)
Wiring in parallel or series you can get to almost any value you'll need with those three purchases for $35. Not bad, right?
As for transistors/diodes/IC's, that's much more dependent on what you're building. A good rule of thumb there is every time you need 1, order 5. You'll have a nice selection (and empty wallet) in no time. Most would agree that Smallbear is the place to source those kind of "specialty" parts to make sure you get high quality/official/tested stuff. Mammoth is my personal second favorite. Tayda would be third, great prices but I've gotten some weird less-than-official looking stuff from them that doesn't always sound the same as their Smallbear counterpart.
congrats OP! I really enjoyed mine but just had too many amps and ended up selling it.
Grab a variac for some really great vintage chunk (very very different than the actual variac mode on the amp BTW)
This one I made using the variac mode on the amp but an actual variac will soften/loosen everything even more.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Ea9KKuA_y0
I got this one
https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS
Outside rev through bore encoders and the signwise encoders ( https://www.amazon.com/Signswise-Incremental-Encoder-Dc5-24v-Voltage/dp/B00UTIFCVA ), there aren't really many good cheap dead wheel encoders. However, keep in mind you don't really need dead wheels. Ignoring the fact that FTC auto can be accomplished using 1d motor encoders and some basic gyro logic, dead wheels only really allow you to move at max speed and still localize. I'd recommend looking at https://github.com/acmerobotics/road-runner/blob/master/doc/pdf/Mobile_Robot_Kinematics_for_FTC.pdf to see how most drivetrain encoders can be used to solve for a position on the field. The only downside to this method is that you can't move at max speed for mecanum. All the other drivetrain styles are completely fine. I guess the question you need to ask yourself is whether you really need to move at max speed in autonomous, which is only really advantageous for autonomous cycles and automating teleop. If you don't need that degree of precision, run the motor encoders. Teams like 5029 have had great success running just pure motor encoder odometry, having one of the cleanest autos at the OH state championships. Unless you need that extra 2 in/s, you won't feel any difference.
100-200 Ohms seems about right. But I recommend buying a resistor kit like this instead of the individual values, makes you more flexible for future projects. And it's even cheaper than the 2 single value stips you listed.
My humidity was around 40%, but it should've been higher, but was not because the majority of the mist gets sucked right out due to the fan being too powerful. After I got my fan and controller, I also took off the filter as there is no smell at the moment. Humidity is right around 55 rH lights on and 65-70 rH lights off. This is possible due to being able to set the fan very low. During flowering I'm going to put the filter back in and remove the humidifier altogether as I don't want to ruin my new filter again. Also, my ambient rH is around 30% which is fine for flowering. It will be higher than 30% inside the tent due to all the vegetation in there, so I might have to put in a dehumidifier.
I'm trying to follow a VPD chart (which you should also look into). Removing the humidifier can't come soon enough. Filling that stupid humidifier 2 to 3 times a day (one if them in the dark) is a pain in the ass.
The speed controllers that come with the fans are usually crappy and not good for the motor. They also won't let you adjust down past a certain threshold. I got a Variac 3 amp variable transformer. https://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS and a Vortex S600 fan (expensive option for a fan but any 6in inline fan will do.)
I hear ya on the paralysis. I was the same way. I bought what I thought was the perfect little set up, but ended up returning a bunch of things and buying more. You learn as you grow. Also, no problem with helping out. I'm somewhat of a noob still and love helping those who put in the time and research. :)
Is it GSM noise like 30 seconds into this video? If it is, you may have some luck suppressing it by adding some ferrite beads to the various cables: http://www.maclife.com/article/iphone_buzz_kill.
Easier to use snap-on ones like these rather than harvesting them from other cables.
You should get some ferrite cores. Put one on each end of the cables (your charger and your audio cable).
It's most likely engine noise entering the charging cable, but it could also get picked up by the audio cable.
You can try different schemes. It may be placebo, but I think they do best when they have one wrap around the core, like shown here.
Yes I actually just ordered the fan and filter so I actually dont have it running yet but this fan will be cooling my hood. Im planning on setting it up like this. Ill have the filter hung up in the corner top of my tent, then Ill attach the fan to it, then the hood, then have ducting taking the exhaust outside of my tent. This fan has a low and high speed., 239/333 cfm I believe. You can also get one of these that can help you control your speed as well. Im planning on getting a 4in filter (thats all i need, its cheaper and lighter too) and getting a 4 to 6 in duct converter (just a few buck at home depot)
http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-300va-Output/dp/B006NGI8VS
That is my exact setup for my veg tent, other than I use a 400w MH. It was my first tent, but I wanted a continuous cycle, so I got a bigger tent for flowering.
The actual draw on that 700w model is 334w so that would probably be the one to go with, and probably won't need any supplemental lighting.
After buying the fan speed controller, while it does work, I found out that apparently it isn't the right kind for the type of motor the fans use. This is a little more expensive, but is supposed to be better on your fan motors.
I mean, define compatible. I'm confused about what you're looking for exactly. If it is rated for the power specifications you need and terminates in a way that you know how to work with there's not too much more you need to worry about. If you post your circuit we can maybe give you some better guidance, but I think as long as you get reasonably-rated through hole versions of your parts you are going to be fine.
Do you have a base stock of parts like caps and resistors? If not, this Electronic Suprise Box is a cheap shotgun method of getting a base stock going, plus you usually get a decent selection of LEDs, switches, or whatever else they sweep off the table in to your box. If you don't want to dedicate a ton of time to sorting them, you can order kits like this and this.
If you're wanting to better understand how this stuff all works, then check out Getting Started In Electronics by Forrest Mims. You won't regret it.
Most importantly--and I can't stress this enough--RadioShack should be your last resort. You'll pay 10x as much for terrible components. Things that cost pennies on Mouser or DigiKey will be dollars there.
How wide is your maple? Something to consider: I have a 12" 5hp Belsaw planer at my shop in Hagerstown, I'd be willing to give you access to for lumber trade. Also, I noticed you need a motor for your lathe, I have 4 electric motors that I don't use, I think most have pulleys. I purchased this a while ago as a speed controller, it works great.
Those slabs sound amazing. How did you get those milled?
I'd have to say the weirdest thing on my list is this bismuth crystal I just think it's super neat, also one could say its pretty California.
I have a speed controller like that, it makes the fan louder actually. This one is worth it if loud fans annoy you https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS
3 plants is absolute max for 2x4 and 3 gal pots are prob enough for that. my 3 plants have filled my 2x4 halfway through flower, 2 is a better number if you want good light coverage, 2 plants with 5 gal pots
ah thanks! ive just been looking those up and it looks like youre right (mine cuts the sine wave to reduce power). this there one anyone can recommend? something like this maybe?
BTW. You can buy some prototyping board (like this) and some through-hole resistor (like this) to practice your soldering, as soldering diodes and switches are pretty much the same technique, and they are super cheap. ;)
Sure. Does yours have a 2 pin or a 3 pin plug?
Something like this should work fine.
Photo of the label on the tray would help.
Get a bigger fan (with a variatic controller if you want to run it less cfm)
GoBox nutes are not that harsh in flowering. I don't get nute burn when just using the GoBox full strength flower schedule except with some finicky picky phenos.
I use a Hurricane Fans 745 CFM Inline Fan, 8-Inch for my 5x5 8" Gorilla tent with an 8" pass through Phesh filter pulling from upper level
proper speed controller, however I use my 8" full blast currently
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS/
Before you give up completely, try a ferrite bead on power cables, and maybe even the XLR. It sounds silly, but they’re cheap and easy to use. They just snap on the outside of your cables, with no modification needed. So if it doesn’t work, it was only like 5 minutes of work, and like $10.
My bet is actually that you have poor shielding somewhere else in your system, and this is simply being manifested via the mic input having AM radio noise.
You can get a variety pack on Amazon for $10. I’m sure that you could find smaller packs for less if you looked around. That was simply the first result I saw.
Something like this. Even though this is overkill for a one off solution. 5% resistors would be fine too.
Elegoo 17 Values 1% Resistor Kit Assortment, 0 Ohm-1M Ohm (Pack of 525) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BL2VX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yAK0AbPG0JMZD
Most any dimmer that works on "chopping" the AC cycle can cause buzzing. You'd have to go with a pretty fancy and more expensive one that could generate a cleaner signal if it bothers you.
Something like a variac would give you clean power with no possibility of buzzing.
http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-300va-Output/dp/B006NGI8VS
It would be pushing this one right to it's full rating, but this one should work.
Edit- Here's a 5 amp with a little more capacity to be safe:
http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-500va-Output/dp/B006NGI2RS/
Damn yeah that must be loud. I have that fan as well. Highly recommend. Get a variac controller to run it as well. So you can turn it down.
PHC Enterprise SC-3M Variac Variable Transformer, 300 VAC Max, 0-130V Output, 3 Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NGI8VS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l3Gjzb63MZW1C
Way cool! Thank you. I couldn't figure out the proper name for them. I just ordered some off of amazon ;) Link.
Also, bismuth is very cheap. It seems like it would look awesome in a display case.
Although I'm not familiar with your fan on your list I have three speed controllers. This is the best by far out of mine.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS
DisplayPort cables are extremely sensitive to EMF, and switching a light on and off causes a spike. If the cable isn't well shielded enough, this can happen. Try picking up a ferrite ring (you don't need 15, and these might not be the right diameter for your cable, but something like: https://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Magnetic-Ferrite-Suppressor-diameter/dp/B00MFCD56C ) and clamping it onto the DP cable and see if that helps.
Good idea! For anyone who wants to have a set of organized resistors I would recommend this kit. Only $18 in Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Electronics-Value-Resistor/dp/B003UC4FSS
> What I was shooting at was more of the specifics, e.g. variety vs 330 and 10k resistors only. Think of it like the emergency kit of arduino :P
No. You WANT a veriaty kit like this if you already don't have one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UC4FSS/ when it comes to common parts like resistors, caps, diodes,etc. After getting that, get a bulk order of common ones like say 100,220,1K,22K,etc resistors.
getya one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-300va-Output/dp/B006NGI8VS
those cheap ones will make the fan hum. this makes it super quiet
I've had good luck with a router speed controller. You can find them at most hardware stores for very little money.
https://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Electronics-Value-Resistor/dp/B003UC4FSS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=resistor+assortment+kit&qid=1573074991&sprefix=resistor&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWE1WMVFCTEZKTjJZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTk4MjU1MTlSRUhHTFdDWDZUMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjY5NzI5Mk1BM0tKRFhPNzlMTCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
I trust you are capable of typing the word "breadboard" into Amazon's search bar yourself.
Bismuth is pretty cool.
http://www.amazon.com/Educational-Innovations-Bismuth-Crystal/dp/B008MB1MCE/ref=pd_sim_indust_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=13DYYME1DPBPMTE7TFWC
You could also get some ferrofluid, it's this awesome magnetic liquid.
http://www.amazon.com/Ferrofluid-bottle-GREAT-SCIENCE-PROJECTS/dp/B00126P1NW/ref=pd_sim_indust_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1DE658YEG7SG10M6TQ8R
This.. I have really been enjoying look mum's cem 3340 tutorial:
https://www.lookmumnocomputer.com/cem-3340-diy-simple/
I would strongly suggest getting a resistor and capacitor kit off ebay or amazon.. They're like 15$-20$ each. That will get you a few of a huge range of resistors and caps:
https://www.amazon.com/Top-cofrLD-Resistors-1640pcs-resistors-Assortment/dp/B00WE1FQ8Y/ref=sr_1_14?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1541720878&sr=1-14&keywords=resistor+book
https://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Electronics-Value-Capacitor/dp/B007SVHFXO/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1541720924&sr=1-5&keywords=capacitor+kit&dpID=41%252BFAHpNRVL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
The worst part of these projects is waiting for parts. So Building up a little surplus of this kind of stuff will make your wait time much lower..
I soldered my ergodox PCBs with my hakko set to 650 F (about 340-350 C). Just don't keep the iron on the switch solder posts any longer than necessary. Basically, if you don't have a perfect joint in 3 seconds, you did something wrong. The traces are small enough on keyboard PCBs that you probably don't even need that high of a temp, but I think it helped to make nice shiny joints when using lead-free solder.
The same temps worked with a separate de-soldering pump that I have that is similar to this one. I haven't used the integrated kind that you linked to before. Over 400C, you are risking burning up small traces and delicate components, but you are probably okay if you work fast. If you really wanted to control temp on that cheap desoldering iron, you could plug it in through a variable transformer.
Soldering components to a huge, thick PCB ground plane on my tesla coil kit, on the other hand... that was more of a challenge. I dialed it up to 750F (400C), and should have been using extra flux.
I just realized the resistors I'm using are "metal film". I'm using these.
Here is a link to the manual.
I connected the resisters across the BNC connector using this
I appreciate your help.
When air is moving we dont think that there is an electric motor turning it but not getting the benefit of the air since we redirect it. A little noise to make sure there isnt a fire is a fine exchange. If it is too loud this way try moving it in the attic away from any walls.
This is the fan set up I use and once its mounted it stays quiet.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Z1JLY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The transformer made all of the difference. I keep it set at about 75% of maximum.
Most boards I've come across really don't appreciate and are sensitive to anything above 27-28 VAC.
Edit:
Nice kit I bought on Amazon for similar situations.
Elegoo 17 Values 1% Resistor Kit Assortment, 0 Ohm-1M Ohm (Pack of 525) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BL2VX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q2k.AbW3C1F4A
Get a variac or step-transformer based fan speed controller, use with a voltage controllable fan like a ruck.
No extra sound, no increased wear.
Something like This.
Anything less will probably still cause the humming and the fan damage.
I see. Then you might consider looking for a variac like this. I only bought one once so other redditors may know better about brands.
You'll need a fan speed controller, without a doubt.
I have a 6" hurricane fan with a Can 33 filter in a 3x3x6. I have to run it pretty low to keep from sucking the sides in too much. I'd rather have too much capacity than too little when it comes to ventilation.
I bought the cheap Speedster controller and it makes my fan hum. It's really annoying. I just ordered this controller, which is supposed to be much quieter. It's larger, heavier, and more expensive, but it's worth it if it gets rid of this humming!
I'm on my first grow and haven't flowered yet, so take my advice and info with a grain of salt.
So, if I'm understanding you correctly, you simply want position feedback, and not the ability to control motors? If so, I have had good results with these encoders. They are simple and fairly inexpensive. They are relative, which means they do not report a position inasmuch as they report a rotation. It is up to you to keep track of their rotation and to zero it out. A known position + a rotation gives you a known position, but you will have to zeroize them when you start up. this could be bad if your system crashes during a performance, you'll have to physically zero out the projectors position. so you may want to look at an absolute encoder, such as this one, which I've never used.
The other problem you will run into is that unless the encoder is mounted directly onto your shaft, you will have to use a transmission of some type (belt and pulley, gear, etc) to rotate the encoder. You will have to measure the turn ratio of shaft to encoder to ensure that the values you are getting back are accurate. For example, if there is a gear reduction of some amount, your encoder will spin fewer times than your shaft, give you bad values. Since I dont really understand where you will mount it, that may or may not be an issue.
Now, others in this thread are telling you to look into an arduino, but they do not have networking capabilities, so by the time you buy a network shield and code up a working osc/udp translation layer (there's probably a library for it, but who knows), you will have spent more time and money than if you just went with the pi, in my humble opinion. Python can run osc and python is very nice for beginners, compared to c++ which you'd be using on an arduino.
Step down transformers are bulky, heavy, and unsightly. There are very few situations where it's worth bringing electrical equipment from the US to the UK, as almost anything you can buy in the US you can also get over here, and then you don't need to have your house littered with huge transformers.
Electronic equipment is different in that it all runs on low-voltage DC, so all you need is an appropriate adapter to convert the incoming AC. The PSU inside desktop computers and the standard "power brick" that's used to provide electricity to laptops and so on are usually made to a worldwide specification, meaning they'll cope with the UK's 240V AC just fine, all you'll need is a simple and cheap plug socket adapter.
Sounds like RF noise from the 19V converter getting into 12V power. Maybe buy something like this for both the power leads to your laptop and the camera.
Find yourself an old fan motor or an old plug in drill and hook it up with something like this http://www.amazon.com/TruePower-Electronic-Stepless-Controller-Brush-type/dp/B009KAEP7A
The S4T from US Digital is always a solid choice, but they're pricey, around $70 each
https://www.usdigital.com/products/encoders/incremental/shaft/S4T
We got Signwise encoders from Amazon for $17 each, they work fine
https://www.amazon.com/Signswise-Incremental-Encoder-Dc5-24v-Voltage/dp/B00UTIFCVA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=optical+encoder&qid=1562699117&s=gateway&sr=8-3
amazon? ebay?
link link
I'm not sure this will solve it 100% but it's worth a try. If not return it or go to a shop near you and ask for this and if its possible to test it out and return it.
Gotcha, thanks for the reply.
I have a feeling you're right, and that it's due to the cheap front audio cable getting interference....and that the new GPU i installed pumps just enough power to make it more noticeable.
I have some new monitor cables coming in...so I will see if they make a difference, if not I will try to get one of those ferrite chokes to see if it makes a difference.
I also haven't taken off the front panel to give simply "jiggling the handle" of the front audio cable a shot to see if it changes anything.
Would you recommend having an electrician come and do this capacitor switch?
Also, would this transformer not work for this? Thanks!
Joe Knows Electronics is your friend. 800-some piece resistor kits, each group individually bagged and tagged, comes in a nice compact cardboard box, and it's cheap as hell. I've been using their stuff for a while now, and it's good quality stuff.
Maybe looping the wire around a ferrite bead may help?
> edit: yeah, it's available on Amazon Canada/US (and other places too, I assume)
There are much cooler elements you can buy on amazon.
They have everything. (Sure, it's unrefined and only useful for geiger counter calibration, but still.)
So a router speed controller would not work?
What about a device like this?
https://www.amazon.com/TruePower-Electronic-Stepless-Controller-Brush-type/dp/B009KAEP7A
This is a good starter CAP Kit
And in a pinch for work I needed some resistors, so I drove over and bought this KIT
for $8.
It is nice to have a range of stuff laying around, but you will never be able to stock everything you may ever need.
I dont stock many trannys (maybe 5 varieties), but I do have a few drawers of IC's.
One thing I did wrong and I'd suggest you do, is make sure you get one that can handle higher amps. Some tube amps do pull upwards of 5 or 6 amps, and I got a 3 amp one and have burned a fuse or two with that being setup incorrectly, once I figured that out, I was careful to not over do it, but it was only one amp that ran at about 4A I think, not sure I recall the model etc, and it's only been one amp, but that's one important thing to consider. If you're going to use it a lot, it's worth saving up and getting a well built brand, but if not, then go for the cheaper models. I think I got this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B00BXJYO6I/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1519332865&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=variac but it's the 3A version, here's one that's 5A and less expensive, but not sure how great it would be: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B076Y2XHRS/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B076Y2XHRS&pd_rd_wg=aRA3q&pd_rd_r=CS27F03X270JC48FRH4E&pd_rd_w=YJVX3
If I were to do it again, I'd likely go for one like this that's also an isolation transformer: https://smile.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-Isolation-1000va/dp/B006NGC6HU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519332960&sr=1-1&keywords=variable+isolation+transformer
If it turns out to be the phone, check out the Ferrite Beads like these which help suppress this noise.
Breadboards are for mocking up circuits.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/64?gclid=CjwKCAiA5qTfBRAoEiwAwQy-6Vh20yG6Pu3X7QUsvZ3IUAR2MR5EhKdlEPpA5rnXI_-nlAqat56QShoCZx8QAvD_BwE
Resistors are just components but you use them all the time so it's good to have a supply of them.
Top-cofrLD 1/4w Resistors Pack 164 values x 10pcs = 1640pcs 0-22M Metal Film Full range resistors Assortment Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WE1FQ8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D6t6BbSSEQQKV
I bought one of these a few years ago, and it's stood by me. I've had to restock a few values, but this has gotten me close enough for 95% of my projects. Same for their resistor kit. I got the digital logic kit as well (lots of transistors and diodes) but it hasn't been as useful to me.
You may need a step down transformer. Something like this
Don't buy cheap with this sort of thing.
If your grow space is small, get a variac controller and turn down the fan speed. I have mine at 30%-ish and it’s nearly silent.
Cheaper fan speed controllers are noisy. You get what you pay for.
Before you go out and spend a bunch of money, try putting a ferrite core on the USB cable. I'll update this post with a link to something that might work.
Edit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Q94DBK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1375477435&sr=8-3&pi=SL75
Something like that. If your local radioshack has a parts bin then they should have some.
On Amazon! It's surprisingly cheap.
Ig the initial investment will be worth in the future. I scoped this one but I'm not sure how many amps that td-100 pulls
This was in the recommended item list too
Adults are just outdated children. You can tell from looking at my wishlist-I want a rock. Bismuth to be exact. It's ridiculously pretty and it comes in rainbow colors!
I've used assortment packs like this before:
Joe Knows Electronics 1/4W 86 Value 860 Piece Resistor Kit
by Joe Knows Electronics
Link: http://amzn.com/B003UC4FSS
Also search for Elenco
The singer 9960 is much better and has a metal frame, you need the updated one with the blue wavy lines, the old version without the lines was a dud so they fixed it and put the blue on. You can get them on the American ebay and they are cheaper even with import fees and shipping. What you want is a 300w step down transformer, I believe you are the same as the UK and 240w - in this case this is the type you need.
For the organization reason I just got this. Chocked full of values I'll probably never need, but now I have them and at least a way to keep them all organized!
I can't speak to if it would work but amazon has them
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016NXK6QK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526339191&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=resistor&dpPl=1&dpID=412RenH-PlL&ref=plSrch
If you have stuff that requires 120V (American standard) and you go to a country with stuff thats up in the 200s (Europe, Asia, basically everywhere else you are likely to go with lots of electronics), then your 120V stuff might blow up. You need a step-down transformer like this: www.amazon.co.uk/240v-110v-Step-Down-Transformer/dp/B000NIYH94
Which is obviously massive and i doubt you'll want to carry that around. Far better to leave your 120V-only stuff at home. There's also a 50Hz or 60Hz frequency difference, but that usually doesn't have an effect unless you have stuff with AC motors in it (maybe your hair dryer?), in which case it will spin slightly slower in 50Hz countries.
For straight ham stuff, I've used mostly Gigaparts and DX Engineering recently.
Recently I've discovered electronic parts "starter kits" like these,
that can get a ham a good start on an well-stocked lab:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E9Z0OCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SVHFXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
if the sound is caused by the speed controller, switching to a variac will solve that issue
https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482124376&sr=8-1&keywords=variac
You're going to need a step down transformer. This kind of thing https://smile.amazon.co.uk/240v-110v-Step-Down-Transformer/dp/B000NIYH94/ref=pd_sbs_147_4/260-0762073-8654467
The device is rated at 69W, so you really need at least 150VA rating transformer to allow for power factor issues and startup inrush current. This one is 300W/VA, which may be a little too big, but should be a safe bet. You could likely get away with a 200W/VA model.
I don't think the frequency difference 50Hz vs 60Hz is going to be a big problem in this case. Unless anyone knows differently.
I found a small piece on amazon for $7.95 http://www.amazon.com/Educational-Innovations-Bismuth-Crystal/dp/B008MB1MCE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_1
Full disclosure. I didn't pick it up, just saw the image and thought of it as a base. But you can buy them on Amazon:
Bismuth Crystal
I'm a big fan of this kit, mostly because the resistors already come in individually labeled bags, but its a bit more expensive. Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Educational-Innovations-Bismuth-Crystal/dp/B008MB1MCE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2QQ95AS53U57B&coliid=I2J2971B3PS6MI
BISMUTH CRYSTAL.
I am so fascinated by crystal growth patterns. My boyfriend took me to NYC for my birthday last year and had to drag me from the crystal exhibit at the Museum of Natural History because they were closing :( I can't wait to go back.
Or if the thing is delicate or expensive (let's not over-volt that old unregulated tube power supply), use a variac.
Use a USB extension cable, like this, and clip a ferrite choke on each end. Route the USB such that it doesn't cross, or ideally, come anywhere near any power cords or transformers, and place the dongle as far away from the PC as you can.
It'll help a bit, but it's still a $15 piece of hardware, and as such, won't be perfect.
http://www.amazon.com/Educational-Innovations-Bismuth-Crystal/dp/B008MB1MCE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395445475&sr=8-1&keywords=bismuth
Electronix Express Variac Variable Transformer, 300 VAC Max, 0-130V Output, 3 Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NGI8VS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rxDcAb0C6JSJD
I️ used this for my vortex 6in.
I think this could make a sizable difference in noise. Mine really helped
3A Variac Variable AC Power Transformer 0~130 VAC by Parts Express
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXJYO6I/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_NGuwtb0A7R1N0
Time for a new addition to your wishlist! Bismuth
capacitor pack
It's a potentiometer knob.
Cylewet 5Pcs 360 Degree Rotary Encoder Code Switch Digital Potentiometer with Push Button 5 Pins and Knob Cap for Arduino (Pack of 5) CYT1100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DM2YMT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gnoqDbT62PMJE
I think you're right. Would this model be compatible with my 120V, 1000W bulb? What would happen if I went up to 130V on the variac?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/240v-110v-Step-Down-Transformer/dp/B000NIYH94
Very much this. Add some ferrites to your USB extender cable and you will also reduce some of the background noise.
They're often man-made. You can get some decent ones for cheap.
Input ( from the wall ) is 120v A/C (typical main voltage in North America) @200ma (mili amps) ( your typical plug at home give you 15 amps, 15,000 ma)
Out put ( to the device ) is 12v A/C. Requiring 1000 ma, or 1 amp.
Your adapter is a step down transformer, transforming the voltage down and the amperage up.
What your looking for is a 120v ac- 12v ac adapter
This should be sufficient
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B8861T2/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1509949245&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=120vac+to+12v+ac
you can buy this on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MB1MCE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B008MB1MCE&linkCode=as2&tag=tc-22-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DM2YMT4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07CWCSNW9/ref=sspa_mw_detail_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used a couple of these on the radio power cable.
I ordered this pack last night.
If you want ultimate silence, do NOT get a fan controller - get a variac instead.
Well you say that, but you just obliterated a resistor by hooking it up to the mains...in any case, I won't lecture you.
A dimmer could work yes. The reason they work without blowing up or dissipating tons of power is AC magic, and we can leave it at that. You could also use a variable transformer such as a variac.
Not sure if this is what you mean...
https://www.amazon.com/Kilogram-Bismuth-Metal-99-99-Pure/dp/B01MR0MLFA
https://www.amazon.com/Educational-Innovations-TRTV2282-Bismuth-Crystal/dp/B008MB1MCE
Wouldn't something like this work
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009KAEP7A/ref=pd_aw_fbt_121_img_2/163-7575233-3411138?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E5DJJXXPZKDYCS0FNTZR
Expensive? Not sure if the diameter matches, but here’s a pack of 5.
Lifetime lowest price on Amazon: https://thetracktor.com/detail/B008MB1MCE/us/
The fan speed controller from the starter shopping list on the sidebar was a total piece of garbage. At first I thought the problem I was having was from my inline fan but after goin through 3... three goddamn fans it turns out that the controller was jacking things up. Started working fine but after a few weeks I could hear the fan that is in the basement all the way up on the 2nd floor.
Did some research n questioning that led me to buy a Variac Variable AC Power Transformer. It is pricey as a fill in for a fan speed controller but 8 months have passed with no issues.
This is on a 400watt setup. You may need a beefier transformer for a larger grow room. Be safe.
This is what I have. There is no motor hum at any speed. The only thing to hear is the air that's being moved.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS
Ha, right :-)
Tried it out with two types of encoder: This one, and something like this cheap-o style, though there could be some differences. Not fast at all in either case, just turning it with my fingers.
Hmm, maybe I'll give it a try with no debounce. I assumed it was needed, but maybe not.
Thanks!
something like this and this
dumb question, would the kill-a-watt plug into the variac with the behmor plugged into the kill-a-watt? or behmor to variac to kill-a-watt to wall socket? (the latter does not make sense to me, but I am not a smart man)
If he's willing to throw $3.50 at the problem (and wait a couple of weeks for shipping from China), have him try a set of ferrite cores. You clasp one of these around the mic cord near the point where it plugs into the computer, and it can block out a lot of RF interference.
is it an HDMI monitor? If you have audio cables you can try clipping a ferrite bead on it.
If you get a lot of buzzing and there's no interference than it's mostly likely a failing speaker.
No problem :)
Bismuth crystal.
The Science of Booze.
This book, which takes a look into the Kennedy murders.