Reddit mentions: The best pc accessories

We found 13,867 Reddit comments discussing the best pc accessories. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 2,218 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

3. Redragon M901 Wired Gaming Mouse, MMO RGB LED Backlit Computer Mice, 12400 DPI Perdition with 18 Programmable Buttons, Weight Tuning Set for Windows PC Gaming (Black)

    Features:
  • WIRED GAMING MOUSE; built for PC Gamers -Optical Gaming Mouse up to 12400 DPI via software, 12000 FPS, 1000 Hz polling rate, 50G acceleration. The High-Precision Sensor delivers Pinpoint Accuracy while the Micro Switch ensure longevity, greater durability
  • LED RGB BACKLIT PROGRAMMABLE GAMING MOUSE; 18 programmable buttons, 5 Memory Profiles each with distinct LED color option for quick identification. Comes with 8-piece weight tuning set (2.4g x8) and Breathing Effects. (LED Backlight can be disabled)
  • ERGONOMIC GAMER MOUSE DESIGN; Ergonomic shape fits naturally in your hand, reduces stress with superior productivity and efficiency. Give an extremely gaming experience during sessions.
  • HIGH-END PC GAMING MOUSE FEATURES; 7 Mouse Buttons PLUS 12 MMO programmable side buttons. Total 19 buttons. Fire button, Pulsing Breathing light color modes. Durable smooth TEFLON feet pads for ultimate gaming control
  • PC GAMING MOUSE COMPATIBILTY: Windows 10, Windows 8, Windows 7, Windows Vista, or Windows XP, Limited Mac OS keyboard support. Comes with 6 foot high-speed braided fibre cable and a gold-plated corrosion free USB connector for a reliable connection
Redragon M901 Wired Gaming Mouse, MMO RGB LED Backlit Computer Mice, 12400 DPI Perdition with 18 Programmable Buttons, Weight Tuning Set for Windows PC Gaming (Black)
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height1.53543 Inches
Length4.64566 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateAugust 2021
Weight0.330693393 Pounds
Width2.95275 Inches
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4. UtechSmart Venus Gaming Mouse RGB Wired, 16400 DPI High Precision Laser Programmable MMO Computer Gaming Mice [IGN's Recommendation]

    Features:
  • 『SENSITIVE DPI MMO MOUSE』Focus on MMO gamers: this professional MMO gaming mouse built-in up to 16400 DPI, 12000 FPS, 1000 Hz polling rate, 30G acceleration, 100-150in/s cursor speed, and a high precision Avago sensor. It has an adjustable sensitivity level (range from 200 - 16400) built right into the gaming mouse. You can easily adjust the mouse sensitivity using buttons on the mouse. Great micro switches provide crisp, firm clicks.
  • 『FULLY CUSTOMIZABLE MOUSE & RGB BACKLIT』Venus MMO wired gaming mouse with multiple programmable buttons (included 12 side buttons), 5 custom profiles each with 5 LED RGB colors backlit modes for quick identification of profiles and additional options for over 16 million LED RGB colors. The LED breathing light can be disabled according to your preference. Special Setting Switch Button on the bottom of the wired gaming mouse allows you to execute the switch profile command with maximum efficiency.
  • 『PROGRAMMABLE MOUSE BUTTONS』All the macro buttons allow you to customize the functions to your specific needs and can be easily mapped to any of the usual keyboard keys, combos. Venus MMO gaming mouse with side buttons can be mapped to what will best fit your style of play are placed within easy reach of your thumb. “Auto Fire button" is a convenient key for most games that can optimize your preferences. It makes gaming so much easier and even has the ability to increase your level of gameplay.
  • 『PRECISE CONTROL IN YOUR HAND』Venus MMO mouse is also an adjustable weighted mouse that comes pre-assembled with (2. 4g) x 8 weights inside. 12 buttons on the side are angled and can be positioned faster by touch alone. The Venus gaming mouse has a nice rest place on the left where your thumb can rest when not active. Comes with two durable smooth TEFLON feet pads for the bottom of the mouse to make the mouse slide better and bring the ultimate gaming experience for you.
  • 『COMFORTABLE SHAPE & TEXTURED GRIP』 Ergonomic Right-Handed design with the frosted painting surface avoids hand sweat and slippery. The shape and texture on the mouse are extremely comfortable in the hand and the size is suited for most. That can keep your grip firm during gameplay. 6ft braided-fiber cable with gold-plated USB connector ensures greater durability. 18-Month Manufacturer's Promise.
UtechSmart Venus Gaming Mouse RGB Wired, 16400 DPI High Precision Laser Programmable MMO Computer Gaming Mice [IGN's Recommendation]
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height1.5 Inches
Length4.6 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateJuly 2018
Weight0.4875 Pounds
Width3 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on pc accessories

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where pc accessories are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 392
Number of comments: 348
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 228
Number of comments: 23
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 195
Number of comments: 121
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Total score: 195
Number of comments: 102
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Total score: 188
Number of comments: 95
Relevant subreddits: 5
Total score: 184
Number of comments: 112
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Total score: 94
Number of comments: 39
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 63
Number of comments: 32
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 46
Number of comments: 28
Relevant subreddits: 4
Total score: 34
Number of comments: 28
Relevant subreddits: 1

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Top Reddit comments about PC Accessories:

u/JJReklaw · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I would find a good mouse you like, so you aren't using a touch pad. I highly recommend the new logitech mice that have their new sensor. I personally have never used a mouse with a better sensor. Any of these three mice are good. I recommend the logitech g pro if you don't know what preference in style you have for your mouse. It's pretty close to what you would be use to in standard mice.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Shifting-Personalized-Programmable-Customizable/dp/B00IRHE892/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482645105&sr=8-3&keywords=logitech+mice

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1482645105&sr=8-11&keywords=logitech+mice

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Gaming-Advanced-Sensor-Competitive/dp/B01JPOLLTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482645118&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+mice+pro

Make sure you download steam for all your gaming needs. There are alternatives, but since you are newer to PC I highly recommend using steam as your main platform. Also they are having an awesome winter sale right now! Perfect time to pick up games at super cheap.

http://store.steampowered.com/

I highly recommend turning off "enhanced pointer precision" which is normally turned on by default on windows machines.

http://www.thewindowsclub.com/enhance-pointer-precision-windows

I would also ensure that your computer is using the "balanced" power save option.

http://www.howtogeek.com/240840/should-you-use-the-balanced-power-saver-or-high-performance-power-plan-on-windows/

I recommend getting good, preferably free, anti-virus. Everyone has their own preferences. I use Avast. Just avoid McAfee.

https://www.avast.com/en-us/index

Picking up a new browser, so you don't use internet explorer, is a good idea. I recommend google chrome because it has enough built in features where you don't need to be "in the know" to get what you need out of it.

https://www.google.com/chrome/browser/desktop/index.html?brand=CHBD&gclid=CjwKEAiA1vjCBRDd-9q3w4OF6WUSJACWv_sVbfPzq9MQuEXf_fjyvJqASfE7B5R_9B7d6mLscUpprxoCj8Xw_wcB&dclid=CN360ufXjtECFZFFAQodU78Etw

If you do pick up google chrome, you should pick up an add blocker for it as well. Blocks advertisements everywhere and stops you from having to watch advertisements at the beginning of youtube videos.

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/adblock/gighmmpiobklfepjocnamgkkbiglidom?hl=en-US

And to wrap it up I'd download the battle.net launcher from blizzard. Blizzard has lots of very good games, like overwatch, hearthstone, wow, etc.

http://us.battle.net/en/app/

I personally use a program called f.lux which makes your monitor more friendly for your eyes at night. It makes it easier to fall asleep after being on your PC late at night. I highly recommend using this if you game at night.

https://justgetflux.com/

Now just find some games you want to play. Here are some of the most popular games on PC(based on players playing the game at the moment). That I would recommend. Everyone has their own preferences, and sorry if I'm explaining this like you know nothing. I'm not sure what information you are looking for exactly or your knowledge level.

Battle Net Games

Overwatch(Multiplayer PVP focus - fantastic FPS highly recommend)

Hearthstone(free to play card game - if you like trading card games play this!)

Steam Games

Skyrim(Single Player)

Witcher(Single Player)

Total War: WARHAMMER(Strategy Game)

Civilization 6(Strategy Game)

Terraria(2d Minecraft)

Paladins(PVP Free to play game)

Path Of Exile(Free to play Diablo2 like game)

Rust(Multiplayer Survival game)

Ark(Multiplayer dinosaur survival game)

Stardew Valley(Top down run your own farm RPG game, think Harvest Moon)

Dark Souls 1,2,3(Hardcore mostly singleplayer action RPG)

War Thunder(Free to play WW2 plane/tank PVP game, multiplayer)

Binding of Isaac: Rebirth(roguelike, top down like old zelda games - highly recommend this game)

Cities: Skylines(better version of Sim city)

Rainbow Six Siege( tactical FPS pvp, multiplayer)

Stand Alone Games That Don't Use A Launcher

Minecraft

League Of Legends

League Of Legends is one of the most played games in the world, competing against overwatch. It is called a MOBA, you've probably heard of it, and it's at least worth checking out if you have a friend to play with.

edit: Also finding a headset is very important, I always point to HyperX headsets if you need a microphone to talk to people. They are comfortable, sound good, and won't break the bank. If you don't need a mic just pick up a nice pair of sennheiser headphones. Also sorry for any grammar issues and just the wall of text. I just started typing and kept going. If you have any questions feel free to ask, hope you like your pc!

u/mr-hasgaha · 8 pointsr/starcitizen

> "what are other good LEFT-hand joystick other than the TM 16000m ?"

There are a handful of other options but the T16000M is the best value which is why it's always recommended. If you are willing to spend more, others will have suggestions for you... I don't honestly remember what the left-handed options are.

 

> "I read mixed things about the TM TARGET software, some good things, and some bad things. The first thing I would like to know is simply your opinion on it."

I know a fair amount of people that have trouble with TARGET but I never have. It seems some have hardware conflicts, but luckily, it's always just worked for me. Is it bullet proof? No. For me, the biggest issue is when, for various reasons, my T16000M is registered as a device later in the line than usual when booting, giving it a different ID. This tends to throw things off.

The thing to remember is that there are two parts to the TARGET software but you can't use both simultaneously. There is the TARGET GUI which lets you quickly and easily set up and configure the stick through an interface. It gets the job done if your needs aren't crazy. But, if you need more control over the configuration, you have to dive into the TARGET scripting in which you write code to make it do what you want. And, like any type of coding, if you're not familiar with it, it can be frustrating.

 

> "is there a way to make TARGET work with one TM and one non-TM stick at the same time ?"

Absolutely. I use a CH Fighterstick in my right and the T16000M in my left. BUT... TARGET can't see or communicate with a non-TARGET-enabled stick. I don't have pedals... yet. Maybe someday.

 

 

So... below is my setup and WHY I personally do this. It's not ideal for everyone but it's what brings me the most joy flying in SC given my budget/space/style parameters. I don't play with dual sticks to be highly competitive or to see my name on the leaderboards. I do it because it makes flying that much more enjoyable for me.

I've been playing combat flight sims since the late 80's with one or two sticks and I've been a dual stick user in SC for a couple years now and love it. Most here will recommend two of the very capable and affordable Thrustmaster T16000M or the newer version, Thrustmaster VG T16000M FCS. Both of these sticks have molded bits on the handle that are removable and come with replacements so you can make them usable in the right or left hand.

While I use dual sticks, I don't use two T16000Ms and here's why:

Yes, the T16000M can be made to work right or left handed... and that's fantastic. That's why I use it in my LEFT hand. And while it's true the T16000M has LOTS of buttons on it, 12 of those buttons are on the base and only accessible in a dual stick setup by taking one hand off of one of your sticks. That's not ideal.

So, I went with a CH Fighterstick for my right hand. I've always loved CH products... they just feel a little more sturdy to me. But, the reason I did it was because ALL the buttons on the Fighterstick are ON THE STICK within reach of your fingers/thumb. There are triggers, buttons and hats that amount to 24 (I think) digital buttons (on/off) within reach of your hand that's already holding the stick.

The main argument for using dual sticks is to have six analog axis in your hands at all times (X, Y, twist for both sticks). The drawback though of my setup is that while the T16000M has three analog axis (X, Y, twist) on the stick, the CH Fighterstick only has two (X, Y... no twist). That means with just the sticks, I have five analog axis to work with. BUT, for me personally, that was a trade-off I was willing to make. Eventually, I have dreams of owning pedals to cover the missing axis.

Also, I fly with all fixed guns, no gimbals. That's how I remove the gimbal variable for myself. Again, this is a choice based on the way I like to play flight sims.

Here's my setup:


I've posted my HOSAS (Hands On Stick And Stick... otherwise known as Dual Sticks) setup details multiple times... so I apologize to those who keep seeing it. I post it here again not because I feel it is the best method/setup, but simply for you to consider and take bits from if you wish:

-----

> I know it's easier said than done, but if you have access to two sticks (friends peripherals) and a HOTAS setup, try both/all and see what feels good. You could also find a really cheap, used stick on Ebay or ShopGoodwill.com as a test. So long as the axis work, that's all you need to test the setup. Then, if you're happy with how it feels, invest in a proper stick. I just happened to have an old, barely working stick laying around that I used to test the dual stick setup. After 2 weeks, I was convinced it was right for me so I picked up a newer stick (still used though).
>
> Here's a graphic of my bindings
>
> If you're curious, here are the videos I have specifically about dual stick:
>
> My Dual Flightstick (aka HOSAS) Configuration
>
Game Play: Squadron Battle with Dual Joystick Overlay
>
> Here's a breakdown of my setup:
>
> #Right Hand (main)
>
> CH Fighterstick
>
> ------------------------
>
> X-axis: roll
>
Y-axis: pitch
> Trigger: fire weapon group 1
>
Pinky button: fire weapon group 2
> Side 4-way hat switch: Vertical and Lateral strafe
>
Top left 4-way hat switch:
> Left: switch countermeasure
>
Right: launch countermeasure
> Down: missile lock
>
Up: fire missle
> Top right 4-way hat switch:
>
Up: target object in reticle
> Left: Cycle friendly targets
>
Right: Cycle hostile targets
> Down: don't remember...
>
8-way hat: only use down right now to look behind
> Right side red index finger "mode" button: IFCS mode switch (SCM, PRE, CRU)
>
Don't use top red button yet
>
>  
>
> #Left Hand (off hand)
>
> T16000M
>
> -------------------------------
>
> X-axis: yaw
>
Y-axis:
> Front half of axis: throttle
>
Back half of axis: backward strafe
> Twist: strafe lateral
>
Trigger: boost
> Throttle lever: set and forget throttle
>
Top Left button on stick: Push-to-talk for Mumble and what not
> Top Right button on stick: couple/decouple mode toggle
>
Hat UP: zoom in
> Hat DOWN: zoom out
>
Three of the left side base buttons are the landing keys
> Two of the left side base buttons are Q-drive system and Q-drive engage
>
And Match Target Speed is the last base button on the left
> * I have nothing bound to the six buttons on the right side of the base, yet
>
>  
>
> My two requirements and goals when I set this up when AC first came out was:
>
> 1. To have fine control over throttle on the Y-axis WITH reverse but to also be able to set the throttle using the throttle lever on the T16000M for longer flights without having to hold the T16000M forward to maintain velocity. For example, if I let go of the T16000M, my thrust will be 0. If I set the throttle lever to 75% and don't touch the Y-axis, my ship will maintain the 75% thrust/velocity. As soon as I touch the Y-axis, I again have fine control over thrust.
> 2. To be able to fly with only the main hand (CH Fighterstick) when fine throttle control was not necessary. I try to have all my main controls that I need on the Fighterstick with the extras on the t16000M. Combine that with some key VA commands and it works well in AC.
>
> I think the greatest drawback my setup has is that vertical strafing is not intuitive or easy (since it is bound to a hat on the Fighterstick). But, the throttle was the the key part of my setup and I wanted it on the Y-axis of the T16000M. I do not have pedals or any other peripherals.

----

u/Richard_MF_Nixon · 3 pointsr/hoggit

>What do I need in a computer/hardware to run this game optimally

Broadly speaking- A 4th Gen Intel i5 or better for the CPU. GTX 1060 or better for your Graphics. 16GB of RAM, and a Solid State Drive for storing the game on. DCS has some long loading times, and the SSD will cut them down as much as possible. For VR, the Graphics Card will manage but I recommend a GTX 1070 or above.

One problem you'll have getting a gaming PC right now is that RAM and Graphics Cards are both in short supply and supply. As such their prices have gone up quite a bit. Graphics cards doubling in price in some cases. While I would typically recommend building your own PC due to price and quality reasons, a prebuilt PC may actually be cheaper now. Make sure you ask around, both with your friend and on here before you buy one. We'll set you straight.


> I also am considering going VR with Rift for full immersion, would that require addition components and is it worth it?

Personally I think VR is absolutely worth it. I've had my Oculus Rift for nearly a year now and have put a few hundred hours into DCS with it. You can usually demo VR units in places like Fry's Electronics or other such shops. Sometimes even Best Buy. Give it a try some time. VR will come with everything you need out of the box. Except the Computer, of course.

>Any helpful input is much appreciated.

As far as other stuff, you'll need a Flight Stick and Throttle (HOTAS). I typically recommend the Thrustmaster T.16000M as a starter all-round HOTAS. It's built well, has a lot of buttons, and is precise. You could get something lower-end, but I wouldn't recommend it. If you have something particular you want to fly, other HOTAS sets might be better suited, but the T.16000M will do anything well.

Pedals are helpful but not really something I would urge you get unless you're planning on flying Helicopters. Especially the Huey. You need a good Rudder input to tame it. If I had to recommend a set for the average user it'd probably be the CH Pro Pedals Get them used though. Trust me when I say this- CH kit are built like tanks. Get them second hand from a good Ebay seller and pocket the extra cash.

If you end up deciding to go without VR, then you will need a headtracker of some sort. They work by using a camera and some software to track the position of some Infrared LEDs attached to a hat or headset, then translate that into an input in game. This lets you look around your cockpit. That may not sound like much but it's a game changer. The official product is called TrackIR5. I don't recommend you get this. While it is the easiest to set up and is perfectly good quality, it is vastly overpriced. Trackhat or Delanclip make good products. Pair that with this camera and you're good to go.

I know that's a lot of info but DCS can be a little daunting to get into, especially if you're not already versed in PC gaming. Hopefully this helped and if you have any questions feel free to PM me :)

u/Silent_Gamerz · 1 pointr/buildapc
  1. Modem: Buy it separately from your router. If you have 1Gbps (e.g. google fiber), then you need a DOCSIS 3.1 modem. Otherwise, you're find with DOCSIS 3.0 modems, which instantly cuts your costs in half. What matters is your number of down/up channels, which dictate your download/upload speeds. You'll need to look-up your ISPs supported modems, as many of them (e.g. Comcast) will mess with you, in that even though your modem may support insanely fast speeds, they won't let you use appropriately rated service packages with it and will auto-downgrade your speeds (or simply refuse offering you the service). This means getting "more than you need" is, in fact, "exactly what you need". Blame the ISPs. So, figure out your current/future download/upload speeds desired, then look-up your ISPs list of supported modems, then purchase the cheapest modem with the highest number of channels supporting it. You'll likely want to look at the DOCSIS 3.0 line-up from Motorola. The DOCSIS 3.0 24x8 will be plenty for anyone not on Google Fiber, frankly. Actually, it's almost google fiber speed rated, so even if you did use it, chances are you wouldn't even realize your mistake (a DOCSIS 3.1 32x8/16 is where fiber users should technically be at). Most would be fine with 16x4, but as the price difference is about $15, I'd consider the 24x8 a worthwhile future proofing, but my budget may differ from yours. And don't get roped into how DOCSIS 3.1 "beats out" DOCSIS 3.0 modems. The difference, if there even is any, is imperceptible. Also, if you use a cable company like Comcast, you'll also save on modem rental fees (as much as $20/mo) getting your own, so it will pay for itself. Also, make sure to check the error codes put out by your modem, after it has had a day to sit around and receive firmware updates (pushed by your ISP, unlike your router, which needs to be manually updated by you. #SecurityPSA). If they're high, or your numbers are experiencing unusual skew, then your coaxial cable (the wire connecting from your wall to modem) may have an issue, or there's an issue in your building's wiring (or neighborhood), building switch panel, or the wall-mount itself might be noisy. You can purchase a new coaxial cable and twist-on knob (I forget what this device is called) to lower noise going to/from your modem - the other problems require contacting your ISP.

  2. Mouse: DPI adjust-ability can be nice for pro gaming, but what you should really consider is ergonomics, frankly. Ergonomics aside (this is why I personally use a trackball mouse, which seems to amaze a lot of gamers - mine uses index finger to move, so my left mouse button is operated by my thumb), you should consider the refresh rate. Much like your monitor has Hz, so, too, does your mouse. Settings of 500, 1k, and 2k are common to find. most pro gamers use 500, else 1k. The higher you go, the lower the input lag, thus you can react faster. You might be wondering then, "why don't most pros use 2k?" Two reasons. First, the 2k Hz are often buggy, overclocked, problematic messes, whereas most the 1k Hz are stable (manufacturer dependent). Second, when going beyond 500 Hz, like to 1k Hz, you will experience visual stroboscopic effects. Depending on your eyes (and your monitor), this might not bother you. That's why some pro gamers do end up using 1k Hz mice. To see for yourself what I mean, check out the relevant [testufo stroboscopic page](https://www.testufo.com/mousearrow#count=4&pps=1920). Personally, I do competitive FPS with a Logitech Marble Mouse, but after nearly 15 years, a new index-finger operated trackball with a scroll wheel, programmable buttons, and DPI adjuster has finally hit the market! So, I'll be trying out the Elecom mice. If you can't imagine playing with a non-thumb trackball mouse, I encourage you to give it a shot. Otherwise, checkout [mice pro FPS gamers use](https://on-winning.com/overwatch-pro-sensitivity-settings-setups-monitor-mouse-keyboard-headset/) (e.g. [Logitech G Pro Gaming](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JPOLLTK/), [BenQ Zowie EC2-B](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0771WQH6X/), or [Razer DathAdder Elite](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXC1QL0/)). Non-trackball mice aren't my area of expertise though, so there may be better choices out there to consider!

  3. Microphone: [Audio-Technica's 2020 USB+](https://www.audio-technica.com/cms/wired_mics/5879a6ca22e5aa7e/index.html) cardiod is great, although it will pick-up a lot of ambient noise in a room that isn't acoustically cared for. It's relatively lightweight and fits well in most shock mounts and boom arms. It also sells with specially fitted wind shields (akin to a pop filter), which are much sleeker (less in your face), remove more p-losives (compared to most nylon and metal pop filters), and is far superior in removing ambient high frequency noises (e.g. ceiling fans and keyboard/mouse clicking) (on account of it being form-fitted. They're also the cheapest around \~$10. However, a similar priced microphone that sounds more neutral and picks-up less ambient, would be the Blue Yeti (and if you're thinking of getting the "Pro", then save your money and just get the AT 2020). It's a pretty good microphone in its own right, although getting a shock mount and wind shield to fit it is problematic (and expensive). It's also extremely heavy, so most (even >$100) boom arms can't properly support it. Lastly, there's the Blue Snowball. Its quality is pretty good and there are streamers out there using it, although many seek out the two aforementioned microphones. Nonetheless, it's still quite good, extremely lightweight, and runs the cheapest of all three. It's also very-very small compared to the others, so if you're skipping a boom arm, then it will be the best fit on your desk! Anyway, with respect to the Audio-Technica, a good shock mount (e.g. [Rode PSM1](https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PSM1--rode-psm1-microphone-shock-mount?))) and good boom arm (e.g. [Rode PSA1](https://www.amazon.com/RODE-Swivel-Mount-Studio-Microphone/dp/B001D7UYBO)) are good ideas, but expensive. And again, a good wind screen (e.g. [VocalBeat's acoustic fitted foam](https://www.amazon.com/AT2020-Foam-Windscreen-Vocalbeat-Microphone/dp/B01LZIDS2A/)).

  4. Keyboard: Mechanical keyboards are my preference, given tactile feel/responsiveness. For silence, you'll want to consider Cherry Red Silent, red, and brown (in that order). For gaming (lighter pressure & shorter travel distance), you'll want to consider Cherry Speed Silver, Cherry Red Silent, red, and Cherry Black Silent (in that order). For those sharing both these priorities, it really just comes down to the Cherry Red Silent and Cherry Speed Silver. The former is 30% quieter than the standard red/brown, which makes it VERY quiet (it also is better for gaming). The Cherry Speed Silver is the best for gaming, EXCEPT it's so loud, that people have reported people over Discord complaining about hearing it. In my opinion, if it's distracting your teammates, then that's actual going to hurt your gameplay. As such, the Cherry Red Silent wins (being the next best "gaming" and most silent MX board). For more details, see [here](https://www.cherrymx.de/en/mx-original/mx-silent-red.html). As for the manufacturer, I've not yet finished researching the matter, although Ducky receives very high user reviews. As for Corsair (who first created the Cherry Red Silent MX's, in tandem with Cherry), their RGB backlit keyboards are a definite no-go. Why? Numerous user reviews state the software must be run on the PC for lighting effects to work. This wouldn't be so bad, except that numerous reviews have indicated it consumes \~500 MB of both system RAM and GPU memory! And while you can close out the program, this will disable all RGB lighting/effects!
u/simon5858 · 6 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Great idea to have a hobby with your son!

  1. Coolermaster masterkeys Pro S RGB would probably be a good candidate for a first entry to the hobby. It is a pretty good quality board, and it has a standard layout, which means you can easily swap out keycaps without having to worry about special keysizes. It also has RGB, which i'm certain your son will find fun to play with as well. I just included a link to Amazon, but if you search a bit more i'm sure you could find a better deal.

  2. As for keycaps you have a lot of choices in every pricerange. If you are looking for something specific, i suggest /r/mechmarket. Almost always someone is willing to sell you what you are looking for, for a reasonable price.

    Alternatively you could look at something like WASDkeyboards. They have a service, where you can make your own keyset, and have them make it. The quality is not the best, but i'm sure your son would appreciate being able to create something, and see his creation on his own keyboard.

    As for higher end options, i'm not sure how relevant they are for you, but you can look into GMK and Signature Plastics keycaps, which are available through a ton of websites like www.originativeco.com, www.pimpmykeyboard.com, www.massdrop.com and the list goes on. If you want i can give you a ton of more links in a PM.

  3. Building a keyboard, is a good way to go deeper into the hobby, and i'm sure it would be a fun project. I suggest you take a good look at winkeyless' website. It's a store that sells keyboards in kit form, and they have pretty nice stuff. It's more expensive than a prebuilt like the Coolermaster, but that is just how it goes in this hobby.

    As for building the board, that is a whole topic in it self, and i suggest you start with the first point in your post, and move on from there. Learning about everything is part of the experience IMO.

    Hope the hobby brings you a ton of fun for you and your son. Also feel free to ask any question. There's a ton of people who would be happy to help. Including myself!
u/iAmAddicted2R_ddit · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Absolutely.

For your controller needs, if you want to use a DualShock4, DS3, Wii U Pro Controller or WiiMote, all you need is a mini Bluetooth dongle and a driver such as DS4Windows (google "[controller] driver windows"). With the proper driver they should be supported under most games, but they might require a button mapping tool to work with some stuff (we can help you with that).

If you want to go the easy route and have a controller supported by most games with no driver configuration as soon as you plug it in, an Xbone controller is your choice. However, it will require a special M$ dongle to work wirelessly, and be warned that this dongle only works under Windows 10. Alternately, if you can live with some inferior design features, you can get a 360 controller (which still works with nearly all controller games) and its corresponding dongle, which has the added benefit of working with all Windows's back to XP. However, be aware that both of these controllers require AA batteries rather than the rechargeable packs found in DualShock/Nintendo. You can buy a rechargeable pack for Xbox controllers but it obviously costs extra.

All of the aforementioned controllers will also work over USB with any operating system.

Now to the second part of your question. I assume that you mean you want to play on your TV–this can be accomplished one of two ways and is easy to setup. The first and most obvious way is to simply keep your PC in your entertainment center and hook it to your TV over HDMI, in much the same way that you would your PS4. Steam's Big Picture mode tries to emulate the homescreen of a console to make controller navigation easier, and does a pretty good job of it. Coming from the PS4 interface I'm sure you'll feel right at home–but you do still need a KB+mouse to get in Big Picture from a cold PC startup. This shouldn't be an issue as there are many cheap wireless keyboards with inbuilt trackpads on offer.

The second way is to use a Steam Link. This is a very handy little set-top box that will stream video input over the internet from a PC in the house–if you've ever heard of the PlayStation TV, this is similar. In order to use the Link you must have fast (at least 10mbps; check using speedtest.net) Ethernet on both ends (your PC and the Link) and a controller that connects over USB (either thru a USB cable or a USB wireless receiver. The Xbox receivers mentioned in a previous paragraph currently don't work with the Link but Valve says they are looking into it). It's very simple to setup–hook the Link to internet, plug in your controller and HDMI cable for TV connection, and pair it with your PC. Then you'll have total access to all your controller-supported PC games from the couch, with no loss of graphics.

Also, as a PC gamer, I have a word for you–there are some games that do play better with KB+M, especially shooters. Trust me, once you try something like Call of Duty with a mouse, you will never be able to go back to aiming with controller sticks. If you want this benefit but still find KB+M uncomfortable, there is the Steam Controller which features a more accurate trackpad in place of the right stick, and will work with most of the games that an Xbox controller works with.

One final word. If you are actually, legitimately serious about getting into PC gaming–please for the LOVE OF GOD do not buy a pre-built one. BUILD. YOUR. OWN. Seriously, if you are looking to surpass consoles and get value for money, I CANNOT stress this enough. Although it may seem daunting at first it's really little more than high-tech LEGOs–/r/BuildaPCforMe will furnish you with a parts list so you don't have to bother with that, and then the build will take two hours tops (even if you're inexperienced). There are tons of great videos on YouTube that will show you how–this is my personal fave, although I do advise you not to use any of those parts since that vid is considerably old.

If you have any questions feel free to reply to this and I can help you out.

u/TheStoneNinja00 · 4 pointsr/buildapcforme
Some items on the list didn't have a direct link to Best Buy, but could be found on their website. I've made copies of these items as custom parts with URLs to the correct page for your convenience. I seriously spent 2 hours on this list. No exaggerating. I checked. I included an optic drive that does everything. Blu-Ray, Cds, DVDs, done. Slap on some headphones and you've got a pretty decent and nice looking gaming and media machine.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $189.99 @ Best Buy
Memory | PNY Optima 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $74.99 @ Best Buy
Storage | Transcend SSD340 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $114.99 @ Best Buy
Storage | Seagate SuperSpeed HDD 1TB 2.5" 5400RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive | $112.99 @ Best Buy
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 750 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card |-
Case | Rosewill CHALLENGER ATX Mid Tower Case |-
Power Supply | Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $112.99 @ Best Buy
Optical Drive | Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $82.99 @ Best Buy
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) |-
Monitor | Acer H236HLbid 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $149.99 @ Best Buy
Keyboard | Razer BlackWidow Wired Gaming Keyboard |-
Mouse | Razer DeathAdder Wired Laser Mouse |-
Other| MSI Gaming Motherboard| $175.96
Other| XBox One Wireless Controller| $59.99
Other| Rosewill CHALLENGER Case URL| Purchased
Other| MSI Windforce Twin Frozr GPU URL| Purchased
Other| Windows 7 OS URL| Purchased
Other| Razer DeathAdder URL| Purchased
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1415.76
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-21 04:04 EST-0500 |

I will also recommend Razer's Sabertooth controller, which is a bit more pricey, but way cooler.

Also, In order to use your xbox one controller with your PC, you'll need this.

Here are some examples of what you can accomplish outside of Best Buy:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/8r9499

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/YFK4Jx

And I can make a new build from scratch to further prove my point. I really hope this helped. Let me know if you want more advice :)
u/_paramedic · 5 pointsr/hackintosh
(continued from previous post)

The DAYUM Build (AKA The You Spend Irresponsibly Build) ~ $5500

Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4930K 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $554.98 @ NCIX US
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $89.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Asus Rampage IV Black Edition EATX LGA2011 Motherboard | $391.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 64GB (8 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $594.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $229.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Define XL R2 (Black Pearl) ATX Full Tower Case | $124.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair AX1500i 1500W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $405.98 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $16.98 @ OutletPC
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $16.98 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Rosewill RNX-N150UBE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter | $11.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $5407.40
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-28 05:09 EST-0500 |

This shit is gonna blow any Mac Pro away. In fact, it'll blow everything away. You better have a backup generator. And you better know what you're getting into smh. Btw, I have no idea whether this is Hackintosh-compatible. Asus motherboards can be tricky but if you're going to invest this much money you might as well invest the time to set it all up. Or hire someone. Whatever. Oh, and still cheaper than a "comparable" (lol, it doesn't compare) Mac Pro by like, $4000. Buy yourself a render farm. Or more than one computer. Or the Apple Store.

RENDER NODE ~ $500

Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-4150 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor | $104.99 @ SuperBiiz
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $6.49 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H87N Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $96.98 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $61.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $82.99 @ NCIX US
Case | Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case | $78.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | Corsair RM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $88.99 @ Directron
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $521.42
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-28 05:18 EST-0500 |

Time for the render node! You only really need a processor and stuff that fits with it. I went barebones with this, and stuffed it all into the smallest case I could while leaving breathing room for cooling. You can stack these on top of each other. Better yet, buy an IKEA drawer set and put them in drawers. Remember to carve out the back to allow for air to escape and to manage cables. Voila! Your own render farm, nicely tucked next to your desk.

Disclaimer: I got the render-farm-in-drawers idea from this guy. I saw it on a blog like year or two ago, I had no idea he started a website. Check it out!

RECOMMENDED PERIPHERALS

For video editing, gaming, and general use, I recommend the following monitor because it isn't glossy (fuck glare!), is LED-backlit, has IPS technology for amazing viewing angles and color reproduction, is HDMI-compatible, 1080p, has a fast response time (5 ms), and is relatively affordable (about $160 USD street.)

If you want headphones, check these out. They're great middle-range headphones that are good for music, gaming, and other general use.

If you're doing audio work, I recommend using monitors for accurate sound-reproduction and to avoid coloring your mixes. A ton of people I know swear by these. Remember to treat your room! There are great tips and guides for all genres of music over at r/edmproduction. Don't let the name fool you; they have some great stuff for everyone.

In terms of mice, any will do; I personally recommend this one, though.

In terms of keyboards, use whatever you're comfortable with. I know a lot of people swear by mechanical keyboards, especially keyboards that have CherryMX keys. I personally hate them because I'm far more accurate with chiclet keyboards. However, I plan to change my key caps to some that are shallower/need to be pressed harder to register (I currently have Cherry MX Reds, want to switch to Browns). The great thing about mechanical keyboards is that they are customizable! If you are used to Apple Keyboards, this keyboard should provide a good balance between the feel of chiclet keys and that of a mechanical keyboard.

If you're balking at these prices, you're not alone. Unfortunately, quality products mean shelling out hard-earned moolah. If you can afford it and think it will be valuable to you, I think these products should work well for their intended purposes and have good quality. I have personally used all of these products. Of course, don't take my word for it; look around r/buildapc, r/headphones, and r/edmproduction for more recommendations.

(continued in final post)
u/Camogaming_RealWood · 2 pointsr/csgo

So when it comes to buying a mouse it is really all about your play style and feel. If you like to palm the mouse meaning that your whole hand is round the mouse a good mouse is the Razer Deathadder If you like the claw grip using mostly only your finger tips than I would recommend the Logitech G Pro I personally now use this mouse but used the Deathadder for a number of years. Both mice have over a 12,000 dpi setting once you install the software you can adjust as you please, but tbh most likely you will play between 200-900 dpi and 1.2-3.2 sensitivity in game. All of this is preference and you will figure out over a long period of time playing key board again is all preference it depends if you like silent of mechanical Razer Cynosa is a very nice silent one in your price range, for mechanical I have owned a lot of them and tbh the one I use is a off brand one I bought from my local Walmart and and I like it more than any high dollar ones I have owned so you might want to look there. Also you will need a nice mouse pad I have and will probably continue to use for years the razer goliaths speed it is cloth and I like it, there are also hard pads many people I know use and enjoy the Corsait MM8800 but again this is all up to preference. Last thing if you are trying to play at any high lvl of competition you might want to look into a 144hz monitor if your computer can run what ever game you are playing over about 200fps I have Acer 24inch 144hz the price is really good and makes a huge difference. well that is about all I can think about I wish you the best of luck and above all just have fun.

​

u/IlIlIlIiIlIlIlI · 2 pointsr/battlefield_4

There are many great mice on the market in your price range, but there's a lot of information (and marketing) to sift through. I hope this post helps.

The most important part of a mouse is its sensor, which is responsible for maintaining 1:1 tracking at all speeds. As of today (2015-01-17) the best sensors are the 3366, 3310, and S3989; this limits your choices significantly but ensures that you will be getting the best mouse possible. Below are some mice and information (and my own, biased thoughts) about them. Ultimately, you will have to decide on a mouse based on your own set of priorities and needs / wants.

First, the Razer DeathAdder Chroma. This is a 5-button right-handed ergonomic mouse with a good sensor, acceptable weight, and RGB lighting. However, the top edges are oddly shaped, there are rubber side grips, you have to use the Razer Synapse software, the clicks are extremely light (causing some people to accidentally misclick), it has a braided cable (frays), and Razer is known for its extremely poor quality control. A good mouse, certainly, but there are major flaws which prevent me from recommending this mouse.

Logitech mice are known for their excellent build quality and high-quality sensors, but they are oddly-shaped. The Logitech mice to consider are the G303 and G502 (there's an updated G502 with RGB lighting, too). Both of these mice use the 3366 sensor, which is slightly better than the 3310. Based on shape alone, however, I can't recommend these mice. The G303 is very small, and the G502 is heavy and awkwardly-shaped and such that I would accidentally click the two front side buttons. They also come with a braided cable (frays) and require software for configuration.

Next is the SteelSeries Rival 300. RGB lighting, 5 buttons, light weight, etc., but has a rubber side grip and uses software. The new revision supposedly fixed the wear issues with the rubber side, so there's nothing really wrong with this mouse, but I think there are better options.

The FinalMouse 2016 is simply a 3310 sensor in a cheap OEM shell - I'd look elsewhere. They're coming out with the "Tournament Pro" and "Scream One" editions, but I wouldn't have high hopes for these.

The Ducky Secret is an interesting one, but largely untested and unreviewed. Ducky is known for their high-quality mechanical keyboards (I'm typing this on a Ducky Shine 3), but this is their first mouse. Good sensor, RGB lighting, separate left and right buttons, a shell made of PBT (higher-quality plastic), Omron switches in all buttons, even the thumb buttons (but not rated for as many clicks as other mice). Could be great, but it's a bit of a gamble, especially considering how many well-known and well-tested other mice already exist.

Finally, I'll cover the Zowie mice. All of these mice are driverless (no software needed; all adjustments are made with a button on the bottom of the mouse), which is certainly a plus when it comes to ease of use, but they lack the flashy features of many "flagship" mice, like custom RGB lighting. All Zowie Mice use the same sensor (3310) and have 5 buttons (left, right, middle up/down/click, and two thumb buttons). Each type comes in two or three different sizes, as indicated my the number after the model name. The ambidextrous mice (ZA for palm grip and FK for claw grip) have two buttons on each side, but only one set can be used at a time. The EC mice are right-handed ergonomic mice. None of them have rubber side grips or braided cables, and all of them are very light. However, they are known for using Huano switches rather than Omrons (so the left and right buttons are a little harder to click) but there is a new revision with Omron switches. Speaking of revisions, this seems to be the Zowie business model: small revisions every 6 months or so. Questionable, but they do offer excellent mice.

Those are all of the major players in the gaming mouse market, but there are others (Mionix, Roccat, CoolerMaster, Corsair) that you may want to look into. There's a lot more depth than I've covered here (grip type, sensor implementations, lift-off distance, etc.) but this should give you an overview of the most popular choices. Keep in mind that this is not in any way an objective set of reviews; these are all my opinions and may not apply to your tastes. Additionally, I've been pretty harsh and picky, but these really are all great mice.

After all of my research, I chose and now use a Zowie EC1-A (late 2015 version, before the BenQ re-brand and Omron update), and couldn't be happier.

u/tamaralads · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

your daughter is gorgeous! i guarantee you she won’t remember you having to work, but will instead remember all the amazing memories you two have created and will continue to create ❤️ i hope she has an amazing day! www.pexels.com/search/cute%20animals here’s some adorable baby animals for her/you to look at❤️

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00FNKMVUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cFfDCbBEKBWC8 i’ve had my eye on this mouse for ages, it would really improve my gaming experience and gaming is what i spend 99% of my time doing! however it is at the top end of your budget so i’d be more than happy with anything from my under £10 wishlist if you wanted to gift other people as well☺️🥰❤️

p.s. noodles are amazing!

u/Doctor_Sturgeon · 1 pointr/buildapc

I apologize. Let me do my best to break it down clearly for you here. Because it's a lot of stuff I was confused too, so I made a document that I hope clearly details my build and the associated costs. For the sake of this, I'm excluding peripherals, because I can't buy them from Memory Express anyways. If you're interested in what I've chosen I can link those too.

So, to begin, ME is holding on to their last 1060 for me, if I do my full system build with them (due to miners, they won't sell it to me alone). As a result, I can price match any of my items with them -- including the video card (of course, I'll be hard-pressed to find the GPU for less than they're listing it for). That's why I listed PCPP -- according to the associate I spoke with, they're willing to price match with any of the sites on there, so long as they have the GPU in stock. This is the most up-to-date build I have -- I've for now excluded the peripherals and the RAM.

****

The CPU is the same as before:

Intel Core i3 8100 3.6Ghz, 6mb

Price Match w/ Vuugo @ $147.25

https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX68268

**

The motherboard I think I managed to get the same one from a different ME, and it's being transferred to my local one.

MSI Z370-A Pro

Price Match w/ Newegg @ $149.99

https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX68590

****

The RAM I'm still iffy about. The one I have on the build right now is a Kingston 2x4 GB for $125. I wasn't given a product number and forgot to ask, but through some digging on their website, I found this and I think it's that one because the price is the same (it's the only one at exactly that price). If not, they have it in stock and I can switch it out for this one.

As far as I can tell, it's identical to the one you linked. What do you mean by expandability? As far as I can tell, my motherboard has 4 memory slots. Can I not just add more RAM? Unless I need to use those to connect stuff like my HDD and SSD, but I thought those used PCI-e slots.

If 8 gb will do me fine then I'm happy, I just don't want to have to upgrade any time soon. The 16gb version of the same one is less than $100 more so it's something I'll have to consider. If it was you, what would you do? The choices:

Kingston HyperX Fury 2x4 GB

Price Match w/ PC-Canada @ $117.99

https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX64812

OR

Kingston HyperX Fury 2x8GB

Price Match w/ Vuugo @ $218.50

https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX66968


**

From what I could tell, ME had the best price on my SSD.

Samsung 850 Evo SSD 500GB

Memory Express @ $179

https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX55510

I think I've decided on 500GB. More storage is always better, and again, I don't want to have to switch, transfer, or upgrade later. I aim to put only my OS and most of my games on there, so it will be dedicated to that.

*****

The HDD I went for 2TB. It's a $20 difference from 1TB so I figured the same as above.

Seagate 2TB BarraCuda HD Sata III w/ 64 M Cache

Price Match w/ ShopRBC @ $72.25

https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX63178

*


The GPU I had to change from EVGA, because ME doesn't have that one in stock anywhere. This one, according to the salesperson and the Internet, has two fans and a higher speed. I figured that would end up being better anyways, but again, let me know if I'm causing a problem for myself here.

Asus GTX 1060 3GB

Price Match w/ PC-Canada @ $364.99

https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX63930



The case I had to switch a bit to get one they had in stock. It's effectively the same as far as I can tell.

IN WIN G7 ATX Mid Tower Case, Black

Memory Express @ $59.99

https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX52221




Same with the PSU. Think I used the filter to grab this one, sorted by Memory Express.

Corsair TXM Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

Price Match w/ PC-Canada @ $94.99

https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX65812



The monitor they have in stock. I was looking to get a cheaper one at about 120Hz but apparently nobody has those.

ACER GN246HL 24in Full HD 144Hz LCD LED

Price Match w/ Amazon.ca @ $249.99

https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX64422



So the total price of all of the above comes to:

$1446,44 if I choose to go with 8 GB of RAM, OR

$1546,95 if I choose to go with 16 GB of RAM.

Prices may fluctuate a bit depending on the prices I'm matching with (I'll review as I get closer to picking up the parts) and tax etc.

I hope that was enough. Please let me know if there's any more info you need. Sorry for the late response by the way, trying to get some homework done at the same time, haha.

Once more, thank you for your help. You've gone above and beyond what anyone would have asked of you, and I appreciate your help very very much. This kind of thing is why I love Reddit.


***

I've added the details on my peripherals below, just for fun. You can totally ignore this if you want, but if you're interested, here's the extra stuff I'm looking to get.

Fasteners

$13.97

https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-106457-Fastening-Cable-Black/dp/B004AFUJZC/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6JVF3PB6QH9VKNGJ9Z50

CM Masterkey Pro S RGB Cherry MX Brown

$139.99

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01D3BDN60/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2Q9BUBJBGLQRF&colid=27HBAHJXQ3YZ9&th=1

TP-Link TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, Up to 500Mbps, Plug and Play

$49.99

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AWRUICG/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3UXQO0VKJJAHK&colid=27HBAHJXQ3YZ9&psc=1

Mionix Ambidextrous Mouse (AVIOR 8200)**

$79.99

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00D3F7D86/?tag=pcp0f-20

u/Silidistani · 1 pointr/starcitizen

I was skeptical but hopeful for years, until I saw Hurston and Lorville get released, and I finally jumped in both-feet during the end of the last Anniversary sale. Player-generated clips like this one and this one definitely helped convince me... I mean look at that, it's all actually there in the game, nothing is a backdrop only for viewing from that spot on some map, that sun isn't rising, the earth-sized planet you are on is spinning in space.

My biggest suggestion: get a proper HOTAS, or at least a stick with a throttle on it and some good base-area buttons - I use an old Saitek X-52 that interestingly enough is being re-released in a few weeks. There are some serious mil-sim level ones out there too. The T-Flight Hotas X and T16000M are popular for the budget-minded (although Star Citizen will rapidly change your mind about what "sensible expenditure" in a game means lol). Get a used one if you want a killer one but can't afford new (seriously though, $60 man, very worth it), but it's a huge help not having to go to keyboard commands for anything flight-related, including targeting, countermeasures, scanners, thruster controls, etc. When hopping out of your flight seat (either to do something in your ship or get out of it entirely), just have the mouse and keyboard positioned to either side of the flight stick, easy. You'll use the mouse in the cockpit a fair bit too, to interact with the MFDs sometimes for things like requesting landing clearance, changing MFD functions, overclocking components on the ship, etc,. It's the most immersive sci-fi flight/FPS/society game I've ever seen.

I'd highly recommend to get in as soon as they announce Update 3.5, adding the entirely new planet ArcCorp, its main landing area for spaceships Area 18, several moons, and the long-awaited new flight model, go Public Live in a few more days. Fly your starter ship (I recommend the Avenger Stalker starter ship or the Cutlass Black package for the bit of cargo space you get, helps make a little money and can still fight ), enjoy a bit of mission running, exploration etc, and learn the world, and when the next massive Anniversary Sale comes around in November you'll know what ships you really want and can make informed decisions, as the sales they have at that time are awesome.

Whatever starter package you get, it'll need to be a "Game Package" that includes the base game as well, and after that one-time buy you just buy standalone ships or packages if you want to pay real money, or you can buy many of them in-game for game-money (UEC) if you make enough (many good ones are millions of UEC). The advantage of paying real money is that they will be with you forever - as they make major updates CIG usually resets all accounts to starter levels again, and you lose anything you earned in that version of Alpha - but you also have many advantages in Alpha that will not be present in the final game so still worth it to buy cheaper ships in-game IMO.

^edit: ^added ^bit ^about ^game ^packages

u/Ramp_Rat · 7 pointsr/redorchestra

sure, I'll copy/paste here:

The higher-end ones tend to be what's called a H.O.T.A.S (Hands On Throttle And Stick). essentially this is a packaged deal with a joystick and throttle quadrant, and is useful for not having to take your eyes (or hands) off the throttle and stick while flying. Some of these can be expensive like the Thrustmaster Warthog, considered the high end of the sticks. The issue with this as well, is it's modeled off a A-10 Warthog's inputs, so you'll also need to get rudder pedals as well since there is no Z-axis twist on the stick.
For more budget options, I have heard really great things about the T-16000 M. You can also buy the stick and throttle separately if you dont have the cash for both right now.

Another company is VKB, a Russian company but uses magnetic "MARS" sensors. I actually use their Black Mamba and love it, however the item has since been discontinued and the company itself is hard to get hold of. They currently have affordable sticks modeled on the German KG12 - flight stick used in BF109's and FW 190's (although no throttle quadrant with it). Available on Amazon its called Gladiator

Saitek makes several sticks, however they're in a transitioning period. They were just bought-out by Logitech and some people have complained about quality issues with their newer sticks and lack of customer support, so I'd only recommend them if you can get a great deal on a stick on sale, or possibly a used one for cheap. Their models are the X52 Pro, X-55, and X-65. I had the 52 Pro and never had any issues, but its one of those buy beware moments with them right now.

And then there's really affordable sticks that work fine too, such as the logitech extreme 3d pro and Thrustmaster T-Flight X. These are reliable sticks that lack some of the fancy things like buttons and dials for radiator management for example. I know guys who fly using these and love it.

Another thing that is highly recommended to get, but is not required to play the game, is called a Track IR. If you watch in my video, I'm swiveling my head back and forth to check my 6, and make sure theres no enemy aircraft diving on us. I'm not using the mouse, or any input to look around, rather I have a clip on my headset that uses IR sensors to turn my head in game without having to take my hands off the HOTAS. Here's a video of how it works. Again, not necessary to buy, but one of those things to hope to get down the road. There are free alternatives called Freetrack which uses a webcam, I think. I havent messed with that but I know a few guys who do use it and are happy with it.

I think thats a fairly decent summary. Feel free to PM with any questions, or check out our group's forums if you'd like to do some more research
http://aircombatgroup.co.uk/forum/index.php

You can also check out r/hotas which is a great community dealing with news, special offers, user reviews, etc

Cheers!

u/DiViNiTY1337 · 4 pointsr/simracing

Cheap, or expensive, is relative. What budget do you have to work with? Basically, I would say in total for the rig, around $700-800 can get you something pretty decent, then you're looking for the actual console/PC and the games themselves as an additional price.

For a fairly cheap, but still best bang-for-buck rig, I would recommend:

  • Any of the T300 + T3PA bundles, for example the T300 Ferrari Alcantara Edition - Great wheel, best entry level wheel by far. With decent pedals, optional brake mod included that, imo, improves the feel a lot. Clutch included.

  • TH8A shifter - Fairly cheap, all things considered,

  • Simetik K2 cockpit - Very sturdy and customizable for its price, and also doesn't have that annoying bar down the middle that basically inhibits you from heel-and-toe downshifting that most of the other cheap rigs have.

    All in all this comes down to $885 as of right now, if you want to save a little bit you could go for the original T300 GT Edition instead and it'll be $817.

    The Simetik K2 is by far the best rig you can get in that pricebracket, but if you must save some more either skip the shifter for now or get a Playseat Challenge, it isn't the sturdiest but again, I do not recommend getting a rig with the pole in between your legs, I would personally rather play at a desk and an office chair than that, as it, at least for me, makes it really hard to heel-and-toe, and I love racing old DTM and GT cars with manual gearboxes and couldn't do without that.
u/lololoz · 1 pointr/wow

It's all a bit trial and error really.

 

The most basic's I'd say to start off with would be to rebind Q E R F (use WASD to move and pan the camera around with your mouse, though some will say to rebind S as well but if you're new to keybinds I'd personally say keep S as a move backwards key, AKA PVP'ers shame button :P ).

 

Q and E I've personally found are best for the button's you are going to press the most - like filler spells without cooldowns/with procs ie. Frostbolt and Ice Shards (iirc, haven't played a Mage in a while).

 

Spells like DOT's and/or cooldowns are good for 1-5 because they are a little further away but still easily reachable, and you won't need to press them constantly- if you're anything like me your hands linger around the WASD area by default.

 

R and F are good keys for situational/utility spells (like an interrupt for example - something that isn't part of a regular rotation, but is still easily accesable when you need it).

 

As something that is trivial but helpful is to bind your mount button to something like CTRL+Space. It's small but is one of those stupid things that when you get used to it it just makes sense.

 

Then as you become more comfortable you can add more keybindings (like Z X C V) and using modifiers like SHIFT and CTRL (like SHIFT+Q, SHIFT+E), but to get you going I'd say this is a good starting point. The best thing I'd say would be to practice on a training dummy and change around the keybindings as you prefer until your rotation feels comfortable and you build muscle memory.

 

If you are new to the game and need a hand getting the rotation down, or even leveling a new class the addon TellMeWhen and u/Chesderman keep profiles updated to import at www.chesder.com that tell you the rotation (it's not 100% all you'll ever need, but it does help a great deal).

 

As other people have mentioned, a multi-button mouse can make the process easier, but it's still a learning process all the same. I personally haven't used one with more than 2 extra buttons, but someone did suggest [this mouse](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00FNKMVUO/?coliid=I3MWGUDSM8CTYH&colid=3KY4B44CD98Y1&psc=1&ref
=lv_ov_lig_dp_it) on /r/pcmasterrace as a good entry point without breaking the bank.

 

Is there anything obvious I've missed fellow keybinders? I haven't really typed up a begginer guide to keybinding before.

u/Thetomas · 2 pointsr/starcitizen

"BEST" probably the THrustmaster warthog Hotas, but also the most expensive (I just bought the joystick alone for 270 to use in my HOSAS setup, can't wait till it delivers on friday)

"best VALUE" probably the thrustmaster 16000m combo. The thrustmaster stuff seems to be the only sticks that use the "HALLS" system, and between that and regular sticks, the difference is night and day (i've compared it to CH flightsticks, microsoft, and logitech stuff...)

My suggestion is to consider HOSAS as well (hands on stick and stick), as I enjoy the number of analog degrees of freedom a joystick for the left hand provides. (16000m can be modified for the left hand, the warthog joystick, and many others, are right hand only.

As for VR, SC isn't really there yet, but I have a vive and know it's awesome. The recent price drops on the oculus are going to drive a lot of people their direction, but I don't regret buying the Vive in the least, and might still do it if I were buying today (but to be fair, i hate facebook).

as for touchscreens, there's some apps for android tablets that allow you to use them as "additional screens" which have game controls on them. It's like bringing one of the in game ship control panels into real life. They're super neat, but I don't actually use them, so I don't have a solid recommendation. Check out the Roccat Powergrid.

u/relevant_pet_bug · 1 pointr/buildapc
Yes, thank you. Op this build is a great starter build. I am going to break it down, and post some alternatives or upgrade options.

CPU: the ryzen 2600 is the best price performance cpu on the market right now. It is powering a ton of midrange and even low high end gaming pcs. GET THIS.

MOBO. a b450 is a good entry level mobo and will work with 2000 series cpus without a bios update.

Ram. Team Vulcan works great with Ryzen. a lot of budget ram does not. If you can spare the extra cash, it is much cheaper in the long run to go with 16GB of the same RAM for $125 if you can spare the extra 45.

An HDD. This is fine. Personally, I would find a way to spend the extra money and go with an 500 GB SSD like this, or this. I would then buy an HDD later. If those SSDs take this build over 700 which appears to be your price limit, then feel free to go HDD.

When it comes to PSUs I don't like this one from above, nor do I like Thermaltake smart. The one thing you should never cheap out on is the PSU, because if a bad PSU fails it can take down your whole system. The above model is described as a safety hazard by review sites, and the Thermaltake 500w smart is not recommended for the same reason. I would get this one. For 10 bucks more you get a classic excellent PSU. While this PSU doesn't have modern PSU features, this is a very solid PSU from a name brand. However, if you want a legit modern PSU then this one would be great, if you can spare the 23 extra bucks.

Finally, the Keyboard and mouse are fine. I got platinum god in the original binding of isaac on a cheapo keyboard combo like this. However, If you want some legit budget products check out the company red dragon. The red dragon kumara k552 is a well reviewed entry level mechanical keyboard, and the red dragon m801 mammoth mouse is excellent. Note that despite the name, the red dragon mammoth is actually great for small handed/medium handed people, as a short 5'6" dude with small hands I love my mammoth, it's the best mouse I ever used.

Here is a build with my suggestions for cost comparison purposes, it will be over your budget of 700 but it is a legit core gaming pc. Here is something to consider:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $165.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - B450M PRO-M2 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $64.99 @ B&H
Memory | Team - Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $124.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda Compute 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $73.73 @ Amazon
Video Card | PowerColor - Radeon RX 580 8GB Video Card | $219.99 @ Amazon
Case | DIYPC - P48-W ATX Mid Tower Case | $29.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic - S12II 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $51.65 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VP228H 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $99.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Redragon - K552 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $29.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Redragon - Mammoth Wired Laser Mouse | $26.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $888.19
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-30 03:31 EDT-0400 |

The biggest change is that I added an RX 580 which is a 1080 60 FPS beast which should allow 60 FPS at 1080 on high or ultra for the next 2 years at least in modern Triple AAA games.

I also added a 1 MS gaming monitor. This monitor is totally unnecessary for small time indies like don't starve, however, once you get a gaming pc, you might want to play some esports titles like fortnite and a 1 ms monitor will be nice for that.
u/LOL_Wut_Axel · 1 pointr/buildapc

Change the processor for an i3-4130. Faster and only a few bucks more at $120, not to mention you have an upgrade path to a Core i5/i7 if you want later. Or, if you can, budget get an i5-4590 and you get a quad-core.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EUUKVXM/?tag=pcpapi-20

With that obviously comes a change of motherboard, and the best one for the price is the MSI B85-G41. It costs $70.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130699&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

Changing that TN panel monitor for an IPS model only costs $5 more and gets you a screen that looks a lot more elegant, has much thinner bezels and because it's IPS has much better viewing angles, better contrast ratio, and better color reproduction. The monitor is something you use every single time you use the computer, so don't skimp on it.

http://slickdeals.net/f/7215282-hp-22xi-21-5-1080p-1920x1080-ips-monitor-110-with-free-shipping-at-shopping-hp-com

Corsair AF series fans are very good, there's no denying that, but honestly there's quite a good amount of fans that are better for the money. But if you MUST have purple LEDs, they're okay. For something functional, Rosewill Hyperborea 140mm will push a lot more air (90CFM vs 57CFM) and they're also 4-pin PWM and don't use cheap sleeve bearings so while not silent they are relatively quiet (I have them). There's also the 120mm version that pushes the same amount of air. $13 for 140mm, $10 for 120mm. Honestly if you're on a budget I'd say to spend more on stuff that's gonna make your games run better and your PC run cooler, but if you'd rather spend it on making it look flashy that's fine too.

http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-ROCF-11004-Hyperborea-120mm-Case/dp/B006DKEQV0/ref=pd_sim_pc_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=07XK7TFAF1V50CH4FE4S

As for the case, there's really no other one that has that combination when it comes to color, but there are better options for the money. If you want a mix of both it looking flashy and having good features there's the Rosewill Patriot for $60. It comes with four blue LED 120mm fans to the two on the Bitfenix, meaning you could also buy two fans instead of four. It also comes with a side panel window if you wanna look at your components.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147169&cm_re=rosewill_patriot-_-11-147-169-_-Product

The graphics card you should definitely change as there's much better options for the money. For example there's the Radeon R9 270 which will give you performance within 10% of the GTX 760 for only $160 and will stomp on the 750 Ti, meaning on most demanding games you can run at High settings instead of Medium.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202090&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

The keyboard you should change. You can get the Monoprice Cherry MX Blue for $51 on sale, saving you $40.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=114&cp_id=11401&cs_id=1140102&p_id=9433&AID=11064683&PID=4485850&ref=cj&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=11064683&utm_term=Slickdeals+LLC-1122587

As for the mouse, I know it's a great mouse, but there are also cheaper options that will give you the same options. Not from Logitech themselves, though, obviously. This one has 4.5/5 reviews on Amazon, has weights, on-the-fly DPI buttons, and 12 macro buttons. Only costs $37 too.

http://www.amazon.com/Redragon-Perdition-Precision-Programmable-Cartridge-profiles/dp/B00GU8W5AE/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1411949015&sr=1-1&keywords=gaming+mouse

As for RAM, you can pick up Patriot 2x4GB DDR3-1600 for $73 at Newegg and that will do the trick nicely.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220836&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

Any questions let me know.

u/FS_NeZ · 2 pointsr/speedrun

As someone who started with Kaizo a few months ago, I can actually give some advice.

I started with Learn2Kaizo - big mistake. It won't help you much as it's mostly trick into trick into trick and doesn't have "real" levels. I then played through Quickie World 1, started Kaizo Kindergarten and finally played through Robfather World which I recently started speedrunning. Overall, I learned the most in Quickie World, but I actually recommend Robfather World as the first "real" hack. Learn2Kaizo, Quickie World and Kaizo Kindergarten all have HUGE balancing flaws. Robfather World has one harder level, sure, but overall the hack is way better as a starting point. Quickie World helped me improve a lot, but one level, Sawrfing Castle, took me over 9 hours to beat - almost half my total hack clear time. Playing Quickie World as the 2nd or 3rd hack would've been better probably.


How to start with Kaizo:

  1. Get one of these USB adapters: https://www.amazon.com/SNES-SFC-Controller-Adapter/dp/B002IXZ5DE
  2. Buy an original SNES controller somewhere (or already own one), plug it into your PC with the adapter
  3. Get a SNES emulator like https://www.emulator-zone.com/snes/snes9x
  4. Download the original SMW rom somewhere on the internet
  5. Download FLIPS: https://www.smwcentral.net/?p=section&a=details&id=11474
  6. Download the patch to Robfather World: https://www.smwcentral.net/?p=section&a=details&id=20190
  7. Open FLIPS, open the patch, open the SMW rom, save the new Robfather World rom
  8. Open your SNES emulator, got to Settings, activate "Reduce input lag"
  9. Open Robfather World.


    (The other method, or if you want to play on original hardware is to buy an original SNES, an Everdrive, a SSD card and a good ol' TV. All that does though is further reduce input lag so it's a cost/reward kinda thing.)

    As general advice... take your time, be patient, don't rush it, stay focused. Kaizo teaches life lessions. Dying over and over and over and over again is part of the learning curve. Get used to it. Yeah... you will die. An awful lot. 50 times on the same jump? Sure. 100 times? Definitely. But every Mario that dies one pixel later in the level is PROGRESS. Be proud if you die on the 2nd jump instead of the 1st. Be HELLA PROUD when you die right before the checkpoint. Don't rage. Retry. Until you get it. And then you will get it.
u/thejunioristadmin · 3 pointsr/galaxynote4

You have a couple options. XBOX and PS controllers will work on your phone but not directly. The easiest option is to get an "on the go" (OTG) cable that converts USB micro to regular USB and plug a wired modern controller into the OTG cable. When I say wired I mean you have to have it plugged into your Xbox or PS to play on that system. Modern bluetooth controllers (xbox/ps) with the recharge cables have different setups.

I only have a wireless Xbox controller. I bought the OTG and receiver cables linked below. I tried only for a few minutes to get it working but gave up pretty quick. Plenty of people have gotten this to work and I'm sure I could as well if I tried a bit harder.

I ended up buying the 8BitDo controller to play OG Mario and I really like it. I ended up ordering another one for my wife for Christmas. I bought an MHL adapter and play Super Mario and Contra from my couch on my Plasma with my bluetooth controller. Its pretty slick.

If you use the modern console controllers you aren't able to use the MHL HDMI cable. I know there are other options to throw your phone screen on the TV but I found this the easiest option. I vaguely remember having an issue getting my phone in landscape mode with Chromecast casting.

My Setup

Classic NES Controller It has top trigger buttons as well, all of these are programmable depending on what emulator you use.

OTG Cable Nothing fancy about these, with this one you are supposed to be able to plug a power cable into the extra pigtail to help charge your device while playing. I have used this to plug in a regular USB memory stick, a full size keyboard, and a few other items for testing purposes. Everything worked wonderful.

Wireless Gaming Receiver

MHL adapter I price matched this and a micro SD card at Best Buy. This also has a power port on it which I have used.

Also check out /r/androidgaming for more info or reqs on other controllers besides the ones I've listed.

u/AphoticAffinity · 1 pointr/redditblack

The top brands are Logitech, Razer, and Steelseries.

Here are some recomendations:

Razer Deathadder (for FPS) - THe DeathAdder is the staple for a lot of FPS gamers. Simple, smooth, responsive, and comfortable. Personally I love the feel of this mouse in my hand and it is quality built.

Logitech G700s (FPS/MMO)- The G700s is one of the best rechargible gaming mice with long lasting battery so you don't have to worry about it dying mid game. Also with over 13 programmable buttons on the mouse it's great for MMO and MOBA games! Personally I've only used this mouse a limited amount so I can't say just how long the battery lasts but it is REALLY comfortable in the hand and has great response.

Logitech Proteus - (FPS/MMO) - Great customizable mouse with variable weights and adjustable palm rest. 11 customizable buttons. Perssonally I haven't used this mouse but heard good things about it.

Steelseries Sensi (FPS) - I can't praise this thing enough. Smooth, comfy, basic and beautiful! Personally I have this mouse personally and love it. it's not fancy but boy does it just work!

u/BraveSirHenry · 10 pointsr/hoggit

I'm assuming you have a T.Flight HOTAS X, which is what I used to use. It's a good HOTAS for the simpler planes like the SU-25T, but you're going to have to get good at using modifiers, or make some concessions.

I'd highly recommend rebinding the slew controls for the TV to the 8 way you're using for trim, or create a modifier for it. DCS was not designed for large amounts of keyboard use, using the keyboard to move all your sensors is not advised.

"I feel like controls could be a bit simpler"

The SU-25 is really as simple as it gets, the aircraft is not fully modelled. The full fidelity modules have the whole cockpit modelled, so all the switches and stuff actually work. I don't want to sound like a "gate keeper", more people getting into DCS is always a good thing, but DCS isn't easy, you need to know what you're in for. It's going to take a lot of time, you're not going to be good in a week, or even a month. Practise practise practise.

You don't specifically need a really good HOTAS for DCS, but it really helps. As waffle also said, don't put your keyboard behind your screen if you need to use it. If you want a good HOTAS recommendation the T.16000M is very good, I own pretty much all the modules, and it's been perfect for all of them.

https://www.amazon.com.au/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA

u/Nekryyd · 2 pointsr/GamerGhazi

Well, since KBM = Godmode...

Why not just enable KBM support by default on console?

For about the same price as a new controller you could hunt around and find a playable KBM set up.

Even in the article you cite, the game's director only says that it should be either/or, he does not rule out KBM. He only says that if a console is going to have KBM input, it should be plug and play and equally accessible.

BTW:

> There's no major difference between a $20 mouse and a $200 mouse except some more buttons, a few LEDS and the branding.

You are drawing the absolutely wrong comparison. Some products are all about branding and style and are definitely WAY overpriced (ahem), but there is a distinct difference between playing on this, and this(anti-ghosting is more important at really high competitive levels and players can be picky about an AG layout, but it's less important than the fact that mechanical keys offer much better options for tactile feedback and are almost universally more precise). And a MASSIVE difference between this and this. That gaming mouse has SIX TIMES (including scroll wheel button) the amount of buttons as the normal mouse. This is literally the difference between going from the face buttons of an original NES controller to the number of buttons and triggers on modern controllers. Sure, you could try and cluster as many functions as close to your left hand as possible, but having them all right at your thumb is a massive difference, to say nothing of the on-the-fly DPI adjustments that many gaming mice have (EG - most commonly used to instantly switch between high and low sensitivity settings for better sniping).

I personally have a blue-switch KB that is immensely satisfying to type on and is great for gaming (particularly when doing something, like a dash, that requires a double-tap of a key). I hope to never have to go back to a membrane KB.

As far as my mouse goes, I paid something like $50 for a mouse that has 8 programmable buttons and a DPI switch for up to 4 different DPI settings (though I only use two). It was a huge advantage over my old mouse for the shooter I was playing at the time (Planetside 2, an MMOFPS).

So I'll circle back to what I originally said and will restate that I think the decision at the hardware level to exclude KBM was an ill-thought "walled garden" approach to protecting controller sales. Again, if your cited article is to be believed, Microsoft may end up opening up KBM support. It only makes sense because media entertainment devices, such as consoles, are converging with the set-top HTPC/video box market.

Hell, again, per your article, Sony even already offers a keypad/mouse combo.

u/LoreCannon · 2 pointsr/EliteDangerous

First thing I will tell you off the bat, get something that's in your budget.

Second... let's talk about what type of setup you want...


HANDS ON THROTTLE AND STICK
-
HOTAS
-

You have multiple options, starting with the Thrustmaster HOTAS-X.


At around $50, it gives a satisfying first hotas experience.

Moving up the ladder, you get to the T16000M and it's FCS pack.

If you are lucky, you can get this pack on sale for as low as $89.99 on Amazon, and it offers a great package with plenty of toggles and buttons to fully accommodate E:D's controls. You can even add pedals later on down the line, or pick them up as part of one big package.

Further up the price ladder is the X52 suite of controls. Two options are available, in the flavors of the X52 FCS at around $150 and the X52 PRO at around $200. The differences between the two are less pronounced than the jump from the HOTAS-X to the T16000, but it has some "nice" features for scripting and supposedly higher quality components.

Granted, even after Logitech purchased Saitek, the build quality on these former Saitek sticks is ... so-so.


Another great option is CH's products.

Throttle.

Stick.

CH PRO PEDALS

Despite other offerings in the HOTAS world between the X52 Pro, and CH offerings and higher caliber offerings - ignore them.

The X-55 and X-56 are MESSES when it comes to build quality, and it's a crapshoot if you get one that will last.

Your next HOTAS offering is going to be the Thrustmaster Warthog - but you will absolutely need pedals. Which means you're looking at offerings from CH, like the CH PRO PEDALS.

And if you get the warthog, I HIGHLY recommend you use Aussiedroid's scripts and bindings. They are intuitive and utilize the entirety of the throttle and stick.

If it's in your budget, I recommend getting MFG Crosswinds.

Also, VKB makes some T-rudder design pedals that work well.

VKB T-Rudders

However, before anyone tells you differently, or says pedals are shit for yaw. I AGREE, DON'T USE THEM TO YAW. Put yaw on your stick left and right, pitch up and down, and ROLL on your pedals. Right pedal forward, roll right, and left pedal forward roll left. Anyone who does it differently is crippling themselves, especially in PVP. This is a space sim, we don't have to fly space ships like we do aircraft. ROLL ON PEDALS, I'LL SAY IT AGAIN.

Past this point you have offerings from VirPil and VKB, both of which make the best of the best products. They both have better gimbal designs, and stick designs, and come in around $400 for a stick. However, there is no throttle currently, as of this moment, produced by either.


Alternative Setups
------------------
HANDS ON STICK AND STICK
-
HOSAS
-

One way of side stepping the pedals situation is running dual-sticks, or hands on stick and stick. This has a slightly higher initial cost than most of the cheaper HOTAS options, but also negates the needs for pedals. The caveat being you need sticks that can be used in both left and right hands.


But thankfully, Thrustmaster has you covered. They offer the T16000M in a dual-stick package. Or you can purchase them separately.


You can also buy two separate Warthog sticks, at around $200 each, and get Okona (/u/cavortingwebeasties) over at dualsticks.com to convert one over.

VirPil's Mongoose can be setup for ambi use, and VKB will be announcing a left handed Gunfighter grip at SOME point. VKB Gunfighter can be found here.




u/Jordan1719 · 1 pointr/FortniteCompetitive

Lol accidentally deleted my response, but sorry for the late response. Here's the build I came up with. This will be good for fortnite and other daily tasks you would normally do on a computer. It's similar to what I have now just some different brands and a better SSD. Its also good enough to run most AAA titles on pretty good settings too if you want to play some other titles in the future. You can find a different case if you want because most of them are pretty affordable and you can find one in any color you want. Just make sure it's at least a midtower so it'll fit your motherboard. You'll still need a 144hz monitor which will run you about $200 here's the one I use. Then you'll just need a mouse and keyboard. I recommend for a good budget mechanical keyboard the K552 as for the mouse just find one that you like which should be less than $50 unless you go with a newer one I recommend a logitech mouse or a razer. Like I said before I would go to a microcenter if you have one near you because odds are you'll be able to find some cheaper prices than whats listed on pcpartpicker. Let me know if you have any other questions.

u/VictorMorson · 4 pointsr/OutreachHPG

This. http://www.amazon.com/Redragon-Perdition-Precision-Programmable-Cartridge-profiles/dp/B00GU8W5AE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1408802042&sr=1-1&keywords=red+dragon+perdition

It's not a major mouse brand, which might instantly turn off a lot of people. However, it's highly programmable, has all of the bells and whistles of an $80 mouse, feels incredibly durable and is not made from flimsy stuff, and the software is utterly amazingly easy to key bind anything you'd like to any button on the mouse, including customizing the DPI. [The DPI buttons can even be re-assigned, with no restrictions.] It's very simple and lightweight, too; it's very good at what it does without any bloat.

The light color change sounds like a gimmick but since you can assign a different color and glow pattern to each profile (which takes about 2 seconds to swap), it helps you easily ID what is loaded onto the mouse.

The drivers are flawless and the button layout is very good; after day 2 with the mouse, I never hit the side buttons on accident thanks to their design.

Long story short, I've had high end expensive mice for many, many years and this is easily the best mouse I've owned in a while. Very sturdy, reliable, and considerably more customizable than the more well known multi-button mice. With 5 customizable DPI levels, it's perfect for MechWarrior, as well.

And all this for the price of a cheap "new computer" freebie-quality mouse. I really recommend this thing. If you're willing to consider a smaller hardware manufacturer, you'll way more than get your money's worth.. doubly so since you get all this for under forty bucks.

ED: The side buttons work very well for MW:O, from strikes to UAVs to coolant, it's nice to have it all on the same location.

ED2: Because of the above I've taken to not customizing games I play all the time, but customizing the mouse to the game. That was doubly nice in Star Citizen since it lacks key binds right now.

u/poeticpoet · 1 pointr/StreetFighter

Ok first off hi! I'm beatlemnkyhuman a.k.a Jesus nice to meet you.

You don't need a stick

It's a luxury. Sticks are pricey and custom sticks can get really pricey. I've heard of players buying sticks and never using them so some buy them just for the swag but it is no longer needed.

Luffy won evo and went pro with a ps1 pad and he still uses a ps1 pad.

Punk went pro on pad, nuckledu is pro on pad coolkid plays pad.

you no longer need a stick

A stick will not make you better.
Contrary to popular belief a stick is not magic.

You will still have to work. In my personal experience, it took me 3 months or so to get over pad and get used to stick. If you did not grow up with a stick then there's no reason.

Next thing, if you did grow up with a stick then your memory maybe rose tinted in that your remembering being better then you ever were. Sticks take work just like pad.

If after all this you still want a stick:

I recommend focus attack for custom art work and big e customs for custom designs as that's what I use

[the te2 is the pro standard. Amazing stick, easy to mod. Sanwa buttons and sanwa stick.] (https://www.amazon.com/Fighter-FightStick-PlayStation4-PlayStation3-playstation-4/dp/B018AW405K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543512575&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=madcatz+te2%2B&dpPl=1&dpID=41vrhKHqO9L&ref=plSrch)

some players prefer the hori rap4 with hori parts. It's cheaper so the stick is a little more loose. Hori parts fully and difficult to mod

the qanba drone is seen as a cheap alternative. Sanwa buttons i think and if not it can be modded easily. Known to not last

The qanba dragon is a monster of a stick that goes for 300 and the obsidian goes for 200.

EDIT: The razr panthera is a pro favorite as well, impossible to mod the artwork but an amazing stick for 200

If you want to go custom from the ground up then you can do allfightsticks. Com which will give you a sleek heavy steel frame or marvelous customs.

Each of those custom sticks will run you 300 plus.

You can even go wood frame which may be even more expensive.

Good luck.

u/Kiixiviixiviix · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Try to talk with the Amazon Reps. I talked to one of the rep and I got a new order which will appear to be delivered to me on Sunday
Your AccountAmazon.com

Message From Customer Service

Hello,
Here's a copy of the chat transcript you requested:
Initial Question: I want to get the update of my order. When will it ship? Will it ever be shipped?
10:04 AM PDT Abhilash(Amazon): Hello, my name is Abhilash. I'm here to help you today.
Thank you for being a valuable customer.
10:04 AM PDT Me: Thank you very much
10:05 AM PDT Abhilash: ###, I see that your order has scheduled to delivered within August 25, 2017.
10:05 AM PDT Me: I wonder why is it so long?
I placed this order for nearly a month
10:06 AM PDT Me: The page shows that Amazon does have stock to sell it to other people, but mine was delayed for a month
10:08 AM PDT Abhilash: ###, I'm sorry for the delay I see that the item is out of stock with amazon so that your order is delaying.

However I see that the item is in stock with other seller on our website please refer this link :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D3BDN60
10:09 AM PDT Abhilash: In this case I'll cancel the order now and you can place the order with fastest shipping available and I'll waive of the shipping charges.
Is that okay, ### ?
10:09 AM PDT Me: Hold on, will I get the same price as my previous order?
10:10 AM PDT Me: My previous order came out to be $111.51
10:10 AM PDT Abhilash: ###, as a one time exception once the order ships we will refund the price difference of $27.00
Is that fine, ### ?
10:11 AM PDT Me: That would be perfect
10:11 AM PDT Abhilash: ###, shall I cancel the old order now ?
10:11 AM PDT Me: So is the new order will have the same price as my previous one?
10:12 AM PDT Abhilash: ###, for the new order you will be charged the price in the website, once the order ships please write back to us so that we will refund the price difference of $27.00
10:13 AM PDT Me: How much do i pay now?
10:13 AM PDT Abhilash: ###, you need to pay $138.99
10:14 AM PDT Abhilash: We will refund the $27.00 once the order shipped so that the order value will become $111
10:14 AM PDT Me: The 139 plus tax will be more, isnt it?
my previous 111.51 was included taxes
10:15 AM PDT Abhilash: ###, please place the order now.
We will refund the difference amount.
10:15 AM PDT Me: give me one second
10:16 AM PDT Abhilash: Sure.
10:16 AM PDT Me: I just placed in the order
111-6721653-0885042
10:17 AM PDT Me: also is it ok to ship a little earlier?
10:17 AM PDT Abhilash: ###, I've upgraded the shipping to Two day at no additional charge.
10:17 AM PDT Me: Thank you
10:18 AM PDT Abhilash: Once the order ships please let us know so that we will refund the $27.00 difference.
Is that okay, ### ?
10:18 AM PDT Me: That would be great
For the other order, do I have to cancel it by myself?
10:19 AM PDT Abhilash: ###, I've cancelled it on your behalf.,
10:19 AM PDT Me: Thank you
10:19 AM PDT Abhilash: You're most welcome, ### !
Is there anything else I can assist you with today?
10:19 AM PDT Me: That is it
10:20 AM PDT Abhilash: It was a pleasure assisting you today! We look forward to seeing you again soon. You can click the End Chat button on the top right corner of this window.

, please click the End Chat button on the top right corner of this window.



Thank you.
Amazon.com

u/ziptofaf · 1 pointr/learnprogramming

> What advantage does this have?

The fact I can simultaneously write code and look at documentation/videos/communicators, you name it. Also when you maximize an app it only covers one screen rather than your whole workspace. Comes in handy every day, working on just one screen makes me very sad. Imho a second screen is a great way to boost your productivity + it's also really cheap (you can pick up a used one for like 50-60€ easily and new ones are around 100€).

As for my complete setup (which is not semi-affordable, just to give you an idea on what people work with):

  • Desktop PC + Dell Inspiron 7570 from time to time (generally desktop unless I work at the office instead of remotely)
  • 34" 3440x1440 for a main screen + 24" 1920x1080. I used to work with triple screen but found a relatively good deal for that monstrous 34" and it replaces two smaller ones by itself.
  • Ducky One2 mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX Blue at home. Great indestructible keyboard, ultra loud but also very tactile. Feels great to type on it and it really makes me make less typos. In the office I use Roccat Ryos TKL with Cherry Brown keys. Not nearly as loud or tactile (but in exchange you won't get murdered by your coworkers) yet still very pleasant to type on. A luxury item really but I highly recommend one. Plus it doesn't have to be THAT expensive - you can find actually decent mechanical keyboards for sub 40$.
  • An adjustable electric desk - if you sit 8 hours a day your back will hurt and your life expectancy drops. So I bought one of these to counteract it so now I can alternate between sitting and standing. Imho a must have for prolonged professional work, definitely not something to do when starting out however (mainly because of the price, 450+€ is a hefty pricetag for a desk).
  • And a good chair. Currently I settled with one that more or less looks like this. A relatively costly choice but well, it's really one of these situations when you kinda want to give yourself some comfort. There are cheaper and durable options too however - eg. Ikea Markus is a good chair that doesn't break one's budget (and probably better than anything "gaming oriented"), the only problem is lack of any adjustment with it.
u/Nubsly- · 15 pointsr/starcitizen

As many people have mentioned, Star Citizen is still an in-development title, and there are lots of bugs and will likely continue to be lots of bugs for quite a while.

That being said, there are lots of people who are OK with this and are able to enjoy themselves, some fall on the other end of the spectrum and get really frustrated so it's worth keeping in mind that there is a 14 day refund policy. If you or he decides you aren't satisfied with your purchase, you can submit for a refund at any time in that 14 day window.

If you're still with us and you want to go ahead and buy him something, here's four strong options for you to consider:

1) Buy the Mustang Alpha Starter Package for $45 - https://robertsspaceindustries.com/pledge/Packages/Mustang-Alpha-Starter-Pack

2) Buy the Mustang Alpha Starter Package for $45 - https://robertsspaceindustries.com/pledge/Packages/Mustang-Alpha-Starter-Pack

Then upgrade it to an Avenger Titan using this $20 CCU (Cross Chassis Upgrade is an item that you will find in your hangar on the website after purchase and can then apply it to the Mustang Alpha to convert it into an Avenger Titan) - https://robertsspaceindustries.com/pledge/Upgrades/Mustang-Alpha-To-Avenger-Titan-Upgrade

Most players in Star Citizen have owned at one point, or currently own an Avenger because it is incredibly versatile for its price allowing you to do both combat and hauling stuff while not being paper thin. It's also the one I'd recommend the most for him. He can always use the CCU system to upgrade his ship to something else later once he has a better idea of what he wants to do.

3) If he's likely to mainly do combat, then perhaps the Arrow would be a good choice $90 - https://robertsspaceindustries.com/pledge/Packages/Anvil-Arrow-Starter-Pack

It will be noticeably more combat capable than the Avenger Titan, but it doesn't have any cargo space. It is a very popular ship right now for combat pilots.

4) If you really want to splurge, then get the Cutlass Black Package $115 - https://robertsspaceindustries.com/pledge/Packages/Cutlass-Black

The Cutlass Black is larger than all the other mentioned ships and it's the first real offering that gives you decent multi-crew features. It has an interior you can walk around in with a couple beds (beds are used for logging off if you're out in space instead of at a station), It has a good sized cargo bay that's great for traders. It has a copilot seat which can be used by a second person to help manage shields etc..

It also comes with a turret for some extra firepower. It has plenty of teeth, and you can't really go wrong with it.

 

If he really ends up liking the game, he should look into picking up some flight hardware (Joysticks etc..). I'd recommend either the t16000m FCS HOTAS $130

Or the dual t16000m setup $115

You can also just buy a single t16000m joystick for around $60 and then buy a second one later. They can be flipped to lefty pretty easily, so don't feel like you need to buy two right away.

In terms of bang for buck, there is no contest compared to these in the budget arena. I personally fly with two sticks, some people prefer the stick plus throttle.

 

In closing, my personal advice would be to buy him the Mustang Alpha ($45) and the CCU to the Avenger Titan ($20), then tell him you'll contribute X dollars towards some flight hardware (Joystick/throttle etc) or further ship CCU's once he knows what he wants.

Best of luck on your decision making!

u/r3c14im3r · 5 pointsr/pcars

Logitech G29 - good value for money, tried and tested tech but it is a bit old being gear driven and can be a bit ratchety compared to a belt driven wheel if you care about these minor things. Pedals included are good especially at the G29 price point. Basically you can't go wrong here.

Thrustmaster T300 with standard pedals

T300RS with T3PA pedals - A bit more expensive than the logitech G29 and Thrustmaster have their fair share of horror stories regarding product defects but over all it's a solid wheel base for the majority. The T300 wheel base is a good wheel of choice for sim racing as It's belt driven so the steering is somewhat smoother and you have the modular steering rim option, just make sure to get a T300 package that comes with the T3PA or T3PA pro pedals. There's also the T150 which is a great starter wheel if you want a cheaper option than the T300 but you won't be able to take advantage of Thrustmasters modular wheel system in future and again, the standard pedals included aren't great.

Fanatec CSL Elite - Not wanting to leave the most expensive "starter" wheel base option out... The Fanatec CSL Elite wheel base for the PS4 will come close to blowing your budget of $500 and doesn't include pedals but it's another option on the table if you are interested in splashing the cash :).

I recommend to check ebay and any other buy/sell websites that you know if you're happy to buy used in case anyone who bought a nice sim rig or wheel and didn't like sim racing as much as they thought and are selling good kit for cheap. Happens more than you'd think!

Hopefully this helps somewhat and you can stay below that $500 mark.

u/BangkokPadang · 0 pointsr/gaming

This is absolutely the best way I've found to play most Indie Games like Shovel Knight, Super Meat Boy, VVVVV, etc. I also use this method when emulating NES/Gameboy/SNES/GBA/etc.

I love it. I have 8 SNES controllers stored in zip-lock bags so I'll always have a good gamepad.

This is the best SNES->USB Adapter I've ever used. I tried a couple, and have used one for Wii as well. Every other one I tried but this one had problems. Most only recognized 2 or 3 button presses at a time, and one in particular (the one for wii) seemed to not only have terrible lag, but seemed to miss button presses all the time. It felt like it was maybe only checking for inputs maybe 30 times a second, and if you pushed the button in between when it was "checking" for button presses, it missed it.

This adapter is the Mayflash brand SNES -> USB adapter, and has 2 inputs in one device, so it is perfect even for local multiplayer gaming. I bought mine on Amazon.com for @ $8.00 US, and they seem to sell for @ $12.00 US now. It would honestly be worth $30 or $40 US.

It can be purchased from here.

I use a mac. I dual boot into windows for a few games, but due to the wonderful market GOG and the Humble Bundle have cultivated, most indie games come out for mac. So, I spend 90% of my time in OSX, and do almost 100% of my gaming in OSX as well. (Until the Oculus Rift comes out, anyway ;-p )

If you, too, use a Mac for most of your gaming, then let me introduce you to the greatest thing for setting up awesome, fluid, game controls OSX has to offer. Controller Mate.

Controller Mate allows you to map any USB Device/Keyboard/Midi Device, etc. to any function, in any program, based on any condition. If the function isn't built in, then you can build it using timers, input counters, axis measurements, etc.

For this application I simply remap each input to the corresponding keyboard key, such as up, down, left, and right arrows as well as the A,B,X,Y,L, and R buttons. I map Start to Enter, and Select to Tab.This makes most games show me the correct buttons instead of generic USB terms such as "button 1" or "button 2."

These mappings are also set to only apply when a particular list of programs is running. This allows me to have multiple keyboard mappings for multiple games, and never have to manually switch between them.

I cannot recommend this program enough. It is a must for any mac gamer, and blows any other keyboard remapping programs out of the water.

It is available fromOrdered Bytes' Website for @ $25.00 US. I got my copy on sale a few years ago for $15.00 US, but it is honestly worth double what they charge for it. I have it controlling not only my games but a bunch of software on my system. It is indispensable.

u/JD2Chill · 2 pointsr/MouseReview

Some recommendations.
Ambidextrous mouses
Dream Machines DM1 FPS - Have heard good things about these mouses. Haven't used one personally but would not be against one if I was looking to try something different than what I already have.
Zowie FK series - Difference between the FK1, FK1+ and FK2 are just size.
Logitech G Pro - Personally I prefer the original over the new version with the Hero sensor because I like the PMW3366 better than the Hero16K but most people state they can't notice the difference. Also, original is pretty cheap right now.

Ergonomic mouses
Zowie EC series - Users report having issues with the scroll wheels on the B models (EC1-B,EC2-B) but that seems to be hit or miss. I have an EC2-B that I love and have no issues with. The B models have a newer sensor than the A models. B models have the PMW3360 sensor.
Logitech G403 - Great sensor (PMW3366) and fairly light at just over 87 grams.

You will probably notice these are some of the most popular mouses on this subreddit, haha. Take my recommendations with a grain of salt and do your own research as well. Hope this helped in any way!

u/gwdope · 2 pointsr/hoggit

I’m about 5 months into DCS. I played some flight sims when I was a kid, 20 years ago, in the Jane’s F/A-18 days, but nothing until DCS. I bought the Flaming Cliffs pack of modules and the A-10C and learned to fly the F-15C mostly at first but slowly read through the 600+ page manual for the A-10C and worked through the training missions and a few campaign missions. The F-15C is great because it doesn’t take too long to learn and you can be having fun shooting down AI flankers in a 10 solid hours of learning and start to get into tactics, the A-10C is definitely the most complicated thing I’ve ever learned for fun. I usually spend a good hr working on A-10C avionics training, then reward myself by jumping in the F-15 when I sit down for a session.

If you do jump into something like the A-10C, I’d recommend getting a quality HOTAS with lots of hat switches, trying to learn the intricacies of avionics and remember keyboard shortcuts and button modifiers is a very big complexity multiplier. I started with a cheap stick then bought the Thrustmaster t16000m and Throttle which works great for F-15, but isn’t quite up to the A-10, so I bought the Warthog stick and use it with the throttle from the t16000.

u/1sie · 9 pointsr/flightsim

I see someone already mention DCS, but since you mention something to ease in to the world of flight sims, i wouldn't recommend it, at least for now. DCS is as hardocore sim as it gets for civilians.

Then you have FSX, a good compromise between realism/accessibility, though it is kind of a dead game that has no further development.

Another alternative is Take on Helicopters, from Bohemia Interactive, the makers of ARMA.
Decent flight model, lots of mission content that actually puts the flying to use, and comes at a great price. Only downside is it needs a PC with a very good processor to run smoothly.

ARMA3, i suppose is also an alternative, it uses the same flight model, got tons of choppers and has better performance nowadays cause its always being optimized (still needs good CPU though). It´s a military sandbox with much more to do than just flying (infantry, all sorts of vehicles, it's huge) and the flight model has 2 versions, easy, and advances (taken from take on helicopters), the sceneries (maps) are gorgeous and very detailed and i truly enjoy flying in it.

-------------------------

As for controls; the [new thrustmaster HOTAS] (https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA) came out recently, has wonderful reviews. If it´s anything like it's predecessor (which i own), it's unbeatable in price/quality ratio,

u/DFrostedWangsAccount · 1 pointr/Steam

You're welcome. I'd have added more but, as you may have noticed, I hit the comment character limit.

By the way, the 360 dongle doesn't cost as much as the steam controller. I have this one, it's $14 atm.

If you do decide on the steam controller, Amazon has it with the carry case for the same price as they have the controller by itself. Here.

Also, adding on about the controller, at this point I've had two other people (who don't play a lot of games) try the controller and they picked it up easily. It seems like the biggest issue people have is unlearning other controllers, rather than learning the new one.

It's also possible that part of it is the fact that trackball emulation is the best way (imo) to control the camera via the controller. One of the two people, the one who picked it up easier, regularly uses a trackball to play games already and was used to the way it responded. In fact, I used a trackball to play games for a long time as well. Maybe that's part of why some people learn to use it easier than others. I'm not sure, I'm rambling anyway. The point is that it takes a bit of effort to unlearn how you play with other controllers.

I'd love to know what you decide though. The steam controller is superior, in my opinion, except for the lack of a physical d-pad. That's just about the only downside and I can make do with that since I don't play a lot of platformers and the radial menus make waaaay better quick selects.

u/Redgodzill · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you've never tried a mechanical keyboard before, its not simply the "click", but the feel of the entire typing experience. You will have to try it out to know what I mean. There are many different types of key switches with different amounts of force required to register their presses, different ones that have a tactile bump that tell you when you've activated the key, ones with no bump at all, different ones that click when pressed down, combinations of these, and a lot more. Its good to be educated about the different types of key switches before finally investing into a mechanical keyboard, based off of your situation and preferences. Head to /r/MechanicalKeyboards if you want to see people with way too many keyboards and good recomendations. Personally, I'd recommend the Cooler Master Storm Quickfire series here and here, or the popular Poker II from Massdrop. A good mechanical keyboard is definitely a worthy investment, as it will last you for a very long time and you can swap out the keycaps if they get damaged or if you want a different look. Also note that Razer's mech keyboards are lower quality than most other keyboards due to their special key switches manufactured in China, so don't trust Razer's keyboards no matter how flashy they look. You're better off with literally any other mechanical keyboard.

For your mouse, its personal preference but if you're going to play something "serious" like CS:GO I'd recommend any mouse from Logitech's gaming lineup since their sensors from the lowest to the highest pricepoint are trusted by pro players.

Happy gaming!

u/Plisc · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

After going through various mice for FPS games, I cannot recommend anything else but the Logitech g303 Daedalus Apex. This mouse is by far the best I have ever used spanning various DPI modes, a sleek and sturdy design for true competitive accuracy, one of the best sensors on the market and last but not least, RGB lighting. I highly recommend it because not only is it insanely responsive but also lightweight.
You can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517952647&sr=8-3&keywords=logitech+g303+daedalus+apex

Wish you the best of luck in your mice hunting!

u/Omowotomo · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

Yo my dude. Welcome to Elite.

Question 1: It is honestly up to you how you prefer to play. Do you want the Wild West in multiplayer? Or do you want to just relax and do some space things without being interrupted. I honestly do both depending on the mood im in. Your pilot and assets are implemented into both so honestly it is what you are feeling at the time.

Question 2: You should get it day one. Elite is straight up doo doo without the season pass. It basically adds planetary landing, more ships, engineering, and a ton of other things including all future updates this year. I would say it is basically mandatory.

Question 3: You can but you either have to get Voice Attack and do the free or paid version, which is a seperate add on you can get on steam for 12 bucks.

Also I would recommend picking up a flight stick eventually if you enjoy the game. The experience is so much better than mouse and keyboard. I started off with this .https://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitech-extreme-3d-pro-gaming-joystick-silver-black/5796515.p?skuId=5796515
After about 100 hours I decided to get this flight stick as it was designed with elite in mind and much better built
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525141604&sr=8-1&keywords=thrustmaster+t16000m

If you need any help with any aspect of the game I would recommend watching CMDR Exigeous videos on youtube as I believe he makes fantastic tutorials for new and advanced players.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0Rwxz4318EEQGHz_z58nVA/playlists

Enjoy your time in Elite my dude.



u/tookthebaitmate · 1 pointr/Overwatch

What price range are we talking?

If you have some money to spare, I would recommend Razer gear. It's some of the best out there.

The Razer DeathAdder costs 50$ and is probably the world's most popular gaming mouse.


The Razer BlackWidow costs 70$ and has mechanical keys. I love this because you have a noticable "click" when pressing in the keys which makes more very dynamic and precise gameplay.

In addition to this, you need a mousepad. It doesn't have to be a good/expensive brand, but make sure it's LARGE. It recently bought a huge mousepad and it is sooo nice being able to play without being scared to roll over the edge. Lower DPS improves your aim, so you may have to move around your mouse a lot from time to time. This is a gamechanger.

If you don't have 120$+ to spare on equipment, just go on Amazon and search for "gaming mouse / gaming keyboard". Most results will be very affordable and still cheap.

For example, I am currently using this gaming mouse for only 14$. It's perfectly fine in my opinion and quite nice.

u/MrWabbit- · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I may be going crazy with research, but I've been lurking the past 2-3 weeks, trying to find the perfect keeb. I think I've narrowed it down to a few, but I'll list what I have, what I'm looking at, and what I'm looking for

Currently using a Razer Blackwidow Chroma, they have their razer green switches which are basically Cherry MX Blue clones. I just don't like the CLICK much anymore.

I game often and type occasionally, so a middle ground switch is what I was looking for, so I thought Cherry MX Brown would be best. However it seems like everyone now hates them? I bought a 9 switch tester with Brown and compared them to clear. I can definitely see the tactile difference, but I like the lighter feel to the browns. Just wondering if gaterons are the better brown, even though I see they have a bit of a wobbly feel, and rattling to them.

Here's what I was aiming for and the few I came up with.

u/Ciel_Rosemont · 2 pointsr/ffxiv

Ahoy! I "converted" to KB and mouse with FFXIV - it was my first game played on kb/m rather than controller. Prior to 2013 I'd been a mostly-console player, had played hundreds of games on controllers, and had never seriously attempted to play anything on kb/m.

The other reply said the most important part: just practice. There is a lot of individual variation from person to person when it comes to how you'd learn to play this way, and (crucially) what areas you'd have trouble with, and how you solve them. To give a personal example of that: while things like moving with WASD and the mouse took some time to adjust to, I was pretty much okay with those fundamentals after a couple months. What was KILLING me was hitting keyboard keys with my left hand to use hotbar skills. Generally, if I moved my hand slightly to hit whatever skill is bound to, say, shift 4, I'd have to look down in order to reposition my hand back on WASD to move properly. If I moved my hand to hit a key, then immediately after that there was an AOE I had to dodge, by the time I got my hand back where it needed to be, I already got hit. This also meant that everything past 5 in the number row was off-limits to skills I would need to use with any regularity, and if I DID need to hit a skill bound to 8 or 9, I needed to stop and look to make sure I was actually hitting the right key and not 7 or 0 (the same way I'd need to then stop and look AGAIN to get back to WASD).

Some people like to change Q, E, R, or other letters near WASD to hotbar assignments, but I just found that discombobulating and also preferred keeping Q/E as my strafe keys (which I use a LOT). This specific problem, of trying to use my left hand for WASD movement but also for hitting numbers to activate skills, kept me from being any better than "barely okay" at the game for a few years, even though I'd felt I'd adjusted adequately to kb/m controls OTHER than that one problem.

So I needed a solution that would allow me to move my fingers away from WASD as little as possible, and that solution was an MMO mouse with 12 thumb buttons. Specifically, this one. I use all 12, so my first hotbar is 1-12, 2nd hotbar is ctrl+1-12 (with ctrl mapped to that little extra button next to the left mouse button), and the 3rd hotbar is shift + 1-12 (shift I can hit with my left pinky without moving the rest of my fingers out of WASD position).

Now a 12-button MMO mouse may or may not work for you - it depends on the person. For me, after an awkward month spent adjusting to it, it began to feel totally natural. I can't go back to playing this game any other way now. But my point in writing all that isn't to say "get an MMO mouse", it's to illustrate that the key is figuring out what works for you, and perhaps more importantly, what doesn't, i.e. what your Achilles heel is when it comes to kb/m controls, and how you can solve it.

Re: standard vs. legacy - I dislike how legacy handles camera and character movement so I keep it on standard. I've long since gotten used to keeping my camera angled in such a way that if I need to dodge laterally, I can just right-click to instantly turn my character and then hit Q or E to strafe. This is also how I get around the "slow walk" issue, which seems to be one of the main points of contention when legacy vs. standard is discussed: hitting S in standard will make you slowly walk backwards (useless for dodging out of an AOE), whereas with legacy you'll actually turn and run away. With the camera angled properly, right-click and strafe allows you to run "backwards" instantly (that is, backwards relative to the enemy, even though your character is actually strafing left or right). But this, again, is an entirely subjective choice that's down to which one works better for you. It's worth fully exploring the particulars of both methods to figure out which one you like better.

u/tadpolebilly · 2 pointsr/WidowmakerMains

There is no correct sensitivity when it comes to playing a certain hero or playstyle. It's all personal preference and how much practice you have put into the hero and game. I have known players who are very good at aiming with both extremely high and low sensitivities. Of course, if you are setting your sensitivity for the first time like you just picked up a mouse, I would say set it to where a full span across your mousepad will do a 360. (With no acceleration. Make sure you turn that off. If your mouse has that on automatically, get a new one.) From there, you have to test yourself to see if you are over/undershooting, or you think it just feels incorrect. In the case where you have a small mousepad and bad mouse. Investing in a good mouse would probably be worth the money. You can find the best mouse for your handshape and grip which will probably turn up the best results. (RJN has a good website for easily finding it.) Or, if you are on a budget, there are nice mice which you can find for about $50 - assuming you are in the USA or can order from amazon easily. (Here a few options. Razer Deathadder, CORSAIR Harpoon, Logitech G Pro, one of my favourite mice, seriously.) If your mousepad feels like a problem, you can get one that fits your whole desk lengthwise. You don't have to get a big name brand or anything, just one that has decent quality.
Good luck with your games.

u/Pfffffbro · 5 pointsr/Vive

Entirely depends on your budget - but at the very least something with Force Feedback, like the Logitech g29 with shifter - that's a very common setup. $200-450 is the figure you'd be looking at - depending on if what you want is on sale. A bit cheaper if you don't want a shifter and want to use the paddle shifters behind the wheels.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G29-Driving-Shifter-Bundle/dp/B016JBE8LU $299

I chose one a little higher priced, the Thrustmaster T300RS GT edition (3 pedal setup not the cheaper 2 pedal one without the clutch) as well as the TH8A shifter. I got the wheel on sale, full price on shifter. https://i.imgur.com/Y8Gg5oO.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL?th=1 $388 + https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-PC-PS3-PS4-Xbox-One/dp/B005L0Z2BQ $149


These wheels are much more than toys. You can feel the wheels on the road, traction loss, how much torque the cars have, if you slam into a wall the wheels can damn near rip your hands off (you can change the % of feedback to lower it). It makes the experience in VR feel super real. I'd say a wheel carries as much importance in VR racing as the headset does.

The craziest feeling I've gotten so far as just sitting at the start of a race idling in a '66 Mustang. The entire hood of this car is shaking back and forth like Dom's muscle cars in Fast and the Furious.....and the WHEEL is shaking left and right with the car exactly how you would expect something with that much power to. That thing was like 100% torque and it felt amazing.

Even if it takes some saving, I highly recommend one of them - although I would definitely wait until Black Friday to get $100 ish off of either one you choose. The sale prices for these are quite tolerable when they occur.

A stand for the wheel is much nicer than a table for mounting, but they can be pricey as well. From $100 and up. My Apiga AP2 stand was $280 but worth every penny to not have a bar in between your legs. Only $240 now and supports most wheels. https://www.amazon.com/APIGA-Foldable-Racing-Simulator-gearshift-ALL/dp/B00XBPYUIY

u/Rithe · 1 pointr/starcitizen

I bought the Thrustmaster T-Flight Hotas X Flight Stick when I first pledged for this game back in 2013, and then realized it was a long way from being flyable

I kind of forgot about it and used M+KB since the game became playable, but recently I remembered I owned it and have been playing with it almost exclusively for the last few days. I'm no expert with one so this is my first impressions

Its surprisingly not too bad for such a cheap stick, and after a lot of practice I'm not -that- much worse than when using a M+KB. I've nearly got my Old Vanduul lap times down to what they were before, and my dog fighting is about as good as normal. And besides the obvious performance differences, it sure is fun to fly with

I do plan to eventually buy a better one (this is what I'm leaning towards when its in stock), but for now its surprisingly good for how cheap it is, and I would actually recommend it to someone who is really on a budget. It does take time to configure though, I recommend this layout and this curve based on my limited testing and what felt natural to me. Without the proper curve its nearly unplayable. I think the only big difference in control layouts is I swapped the afterburner for IFCS buttons, because with racing I needed it available easily

I also use Voice Attack which I have mapped to a whole bunch of commands. I can show you what I have so far if you are interested but its on my home computer

u/Deoxysprime · 1 pointr/buildapc

Right now I have a Redragon Perdition and it works well for me. I think I have pretty big hands but it feels super comfortable and the plastic doesn't feel cheap at all. I'm very fond of this brand after moving on from Razer mice. My Razer mice really only ever lasted me about 6 months but this mouse has lasted me 2 years for about half of the price.

A buddy of mine tried the Redragon Mammoth because he didn't want buttons on the side and he said it's a great mouse for the price and it looks to be about the same size.

I didn't trust this brand at first since their stuff came from China but I've been pleasantly surprised. Good build quality, acceptable software, and tons of features for this price point.

u/CreativeCamp · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

In general most mechanicals use switches (the little thing under the keycaps that activates the button) from big switch makers. Cherry is the most popular one and if you get a keyboard with cherry MX switches you will know that at least those will have a good build to them.

This is a board with Brown Cherry Switches. They have a bit of a tactile bump tot them when pressed and are overall very pleasant to type on.

Linear Red Cherry switches on this board. Red is often preferred for gaming because it's light to press and you can double tap easily because of how the activation works on this switch.

CHERRY MX BLUE! The switch that people think about when you say mechanical keyboard. It has a very audible click and it's almost bordering on a typewriter feel when you type on it. Some people hate it. Some love it. This board is available in 4 different configurations if blue isn't your switch.

There are of course other boards but those are nice starter ones. A lot of people here like the CM ones as you will see. Corsair is also starting to blow up. Expect a lot of pictures of the Corsair RGB when it comes out. The hype is off the hook at the moment. Kind of.

If it was up to me I'd buy a Ducky keyboard but those are a bit more expensive.
I did find a super nice one that is just inside your budget.

It's a brown switched TKL (no numpad) from ducky. It has really cool illumination settings and is overall high in build quality. It's out of stock at NCIX but you should be able to get it at other places if you look around a bit. I would do it for you but my collar bone is broken and I don't have the energy to do that right now.

Good luck with the hunt, let me know how it goes!

u/Nozohomie · 1 pointr/fightsticks

What’s your limit per se and your systems you want to use it on? Reason I ask is I know a couple really good budget sticks. (Mayflash F300, Mayflash F500) but the best budget stick in my opinion that’s actually on sale right now I’d recommend the Qanba Drone. Easy to mod too (like I modded mine out with Sanwa parts and Hayabusa buttons) here’s the Amazon link of it while it’s down in price at $69 https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Drone-PlayStation-4/dp/B01I0GEDEY/ref=sxin_1_ac_d_rm?ac_md=3-2-cWFuYmEgZHJvbmU%3D-ac_d_rm&crid=361Z42RGDGX46&keywords=mayflash+f300&pd_rd_i=B01I0GEDEY&pd_rd_r=fbb14bab-5c40-4ca6-99fc-0da2a5f86dac&pd_rd_w=Bs9Pl&pd_rd_wg=0tyq3&pf_rd_p=d29bc9bc-49e2-46b8-bc05-387917c341ec&pf_rd_r=C6GTT35K40VEH3BV43Y0&qid=1567897331&s=gateway&sprefix=Mayflash+f3%2Caps%2C158

Also if you’re willing to go up about $30, then this is a great stick on sale too and actually comes with Hayabusa matte buttons (which are great buttons and would mean you don’t have to mod it too much if you like those. I personally love Hayabusa buttons too) https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Real-Arcade-Pro-Soul-Calibur/dp/B01A8L6O0U/ref=sr_1_1?crid=NAN7Q46MA42W&keywords=soul+calibur+fight+stick&qid=1567897678&s=gateway&sprefix=Soul+calibur+figh%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-1

u/Pyromaniac34 · 2 pointsr/gaming

So, my suggestion to you, get 2 Stinky Boards that you control with your feet. That's 8 buttons which should mostly make up for the loss of major left hand use.

Then get a mouse with lots of buttons like the Logitech G502, Utech Venus, or the Razer Naga line.

It will definitely take some getting used to, but you probably wouldn't need to give up any of the games you love.

The last recommendation I have to further expand your ability to control games with minimal left hand usage is Voice Attack Which lets you program in (assuming someone hasn't built a profile already) sequences of key presses and other things that respond to your voice. When properly set up, it works amazingly for games like Elite: Dangerous when I'm in VR and can't really see the keyboard to use those controls.

Best of luck to you, and hopefully you regain full functionality soon.

u/70KnotsCheck · 3 pointsr/hoggit

Hey man, great work for a Xbox controller! Next step is a joystick. If you're looking for some cheap ones that'll do everything you need to, the [Logitech Extreme 3D Pro] (https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-963290-0403-Extreme-Joystick-Windows/dp/B00009OY9U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497142979&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+extreme+3d+pro) is the place to look, it's around $30 to $40 from most retailers, but the price also equates to lower quality, and not a bad experience but one that could be improved upon significantly. The next step up would be a [VKB Gladiator] (https://www.amazon.com/Gladiator-Joystick-Flight-Simulator-Controller-Stick/dp/B01G6GT49O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497143033&sr=8-1&keywords=VKB%2BGladiator&th=1). A bit of a jump in price (nearly double, can be had for around $100USD +/-$25), but most reviews say it's stellar and a couple people around this subreddit love it. The $200~ price range after that is a bit iffy, as you get sub-par quality most of the time, but the [Thrustmaster T.1600M HOTAS] (https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA/ref=pd_cp_63_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01KCHPRXA&pd_rd_r=SX371RPQX69YRDW52JNY&pd_rd_w=8TOqr&pd_rd_wg=NAt9b&psc=1&refRID=SX371RPQX69YRDW52JNY) has kind of alleviated that issue. Most reviews make it out to be excellent for the price. If you've got the change, I think it'd be a great place to start. Other than that there's not much in the $300-$200 price range. In the $500-$400 price range however, there's the one and only [Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00371R8P4/ref=psdc_172487_t5_B01KCHPRXA), which is extremely expensive but modeled after a real A-10C and is of stellar quality. You're going to need rudder pedals if you go that route though, so I'd advise against it as it's got quite a premium to pay.

Glad you're enjoying the hobby, and hopefully you can expand to a stick soon and get even better. No pressure to get one if you're fine with the controller, but it can totally enhance your experience.

u/violetviceroy · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I wouldnt worry about it. iKBC makes high-quality boards. "Real" cherry switches are no better than many of their competitiors, such as kailh switches and gateron switches, and generally tend to feel worse. If you do a search of this forum (which I strongly recommend, so that you learn more about mech boards in general), you'll find that most serious enthusiasts do not like the feel of cherry switches unless they have modified them in some way - such as taking them apart to apply lube, or swapping them into the housing of one of their competitors. "Real Cherry" is a marketing gimmick, and if this is your only concern, you can save money by getting a "knock-off" board for much less.

As for stabilizers: this is a case of you get what you pay for. Off-the-shelf boards with great stabilizers include: vortex vibe (60% + numpad), and the vortex race (75%, no numpad), but these tend to retail for around $130 USD. Other more expensive brands, such as leopold, have great stabilizers too. Rattly stabs are easy to fix, in any case.

Other brands you might look into: Coolermaster makes solid entry-level full-sized boards, and they have excellent stabilizers, and does the brand Ducky. Rosewill is another option: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00S5E4LX0/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bk38zb_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=5K7ZA2QY682GE8P8EK93&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=0717e713-00ea-5675-b7dd-2d1ae0cbad07&pf_rd_i=680461011

Another option still is RedDragon: https://www.amazon.ca/Redragon-KUMARA-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B016MAK38U/ref=lp_680461011_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1523199659&sr=1-8

Cooler Master: https://www.amazon.ca/MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Keycaps/dp/B072C516B9/ref=lp_680461011_1_18?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1523199659&sr=1-18 .

And yes, fees tend to be higher in Canada.

If you are really, truly, concerned, I would spend the time to do some keyword searches in this forum. I dont mean this offensively, but a lot of your concerns are fairly noobish and reading up on what other people say will probably assuage them, and make you feel better about spending money on whatever board you eventually do get (I speak from experience on this). Your keyboard needs are fairly straightforward, so you should be able to get a solid board that meets them without spending more than you want to.

u/OfficialShip2000 · 3 pointsr/flightsim
  1. X-Plane.org This is the link to the XP10 section, but nearly all of them should work fine in XP11

  2. Someone else can answer that

  3. The Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS seems to be what everyone is recommending for an entry level HOTAS

  4. For the base game, that's it really. Fly around. Generally people fly between two airports like in real life. Things get more interesting if you add stuff like FSEconomy or multiplayer like VATSIM, IVAO, or PilotEdge

  5. For X-Plane, I would only really buy plane addons. Nearly all the scenery you will ever need is free on places like the x-plane.org fourm. The only other thing I would recommend is looking at one of the weather addons.

  6. There are many, can't name them off the top of my head

  7. MisterX is the end all be all of freeware scenery

    The planes I would recommend are the FlightFactor 767, FlightFactor 757, IXEG 737, Rotate MD80, AirfoilLabs 172SP, Any of the Dreamfoil helicopters, and whichever Carenando planes have the Reality Expansion Packs.
u/Luminaria19 · 2 pointsr/AskWomen

Amazon, Newegg, and /r/buildapcsales are your best friends for sales.

For mice, if he's the type that loves a lot of buttons on his mouse, I highly recommend this piece of beauty. I've had it for a couple years now and while it's off-brand (making it $30ish cheaper than comparable mice), it's held up great. It frequently goes on sale for $30.

If he's the type to set up his laptop on a desk when at home and he wants a dedicated keyboard for it, I'd recommend anything mechanical. I have this one and the price it is right now ($90) is fantastic (if not in your budget, that's fine too - there are other mechs for cheaper, usually without the custom lighting)

u/wrenagade419 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

no not refurbished, it's brand new for that much.

here is amazon link https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-M901-PERDITION-High-Precision-Programmable/dp/B00GU8W5AE


for 35 bucks, i figured it's be cheap and break pretty quick or have issues. nope. there's other redragon mouse designs too, gotta assume they are just as good. I want to say they are in line with razer nagas but that may be a bold statement, my brother has a razer, i honestly think the redragon feels a bit.. sturdier, but that's just feel, says nothing about real quality, which, i think they are pretty much even. The software that comes with it is great, set your dpi settings, theres i think 4-5 settings, and tqo buttons behind mouse wheel to switch between them (up and down) and you can customize each one, so like 800 for one, 1200 for another, whatever you want up to 16400 dpi. mousewheel changes color to indicate what setting you're on. The logo and the numbers light up which you can customize that color and if it pulses and how fast. I constantly recommend this mouse to people looking for a cheap, quality alternative. and i think it has 5 star rating on amazon with 2512 reviews. Keep your options open but i can't say enough good things about the price and quality of this mouse. I play overwatch, ffxiv. Love this thing. 34 for black, 37 for the white one, which i wanted but my case is black and i kept that theme.

u/Busted_D · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

For the best tactility in that price range, see if you can find some boards with Cherry MX clears. I know the Pok3r can be had with clears for $130 or less, but that's a 60% board with no dedicated arrows. If not, I'd highly recommend Gateron browns over Cherry MX browns. They're a bit wobblier, but the extra smoothness makes the tactile bump noticably more apparent (and enjoyable IMO). The Magicforce 68 is pretty highly recommended as a good budget board, and it's available with Gat browns.

This is where I started my search, but I intentionally wanted a super cheap board to start with. Happy hunting!

u/PostalFury · 1 pointr/buildapc

Honestly, the power supply can be just as important of a part to search about as a processor or a graphics card. A bad power supply can result in coil whine, poor lifespan, poor customer support via the company, or straight-up putting your entire build at risk with its poor internal parts.

As far as keyboards go, I personally love Cooler Master's TKL (tenkeyless) keyboards. I've had the Quickfire Rapid-i for around a year+ now, but they released a new line called MasterKeys Pro S that have RGB lighting and have been getting pretty great reviews (as most CM products do). I can't recommend TKL keyboards enough. Have great build quality and are super compact, which would be a plus for you since you said you were pretty limited on space.

With the money saved in this proposed build, I would suggest upgrading the 1060 to a 6GB model. You'll get better performance and a bit more sauce out of your games.

u/jettivonaviska · 3 pointsr/Diablo

I used this mouse for 3 years before I replaced it (60+ hours a week use on average). It's a lesser known brand, but I've enjoyed the mouse a lot, and it's a bit cheaper than the big names (Logitech, Corsair, Razer, and the like). I know you said it takes awhile to save up money for splurges on things like this, but it might be easier to save for since it's a little cheaper. I'm glad you all enjoy your time playing the game!

u/SkeletonInProgresss · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I love Razer. I love how much they are doing for the gaming scene and eSports scene.

That being said, I have gone through two Blackwidow keyboards and three Naga mice. I wouldn't say that I'm hard on my accessories, but they do see a fair amount of use. My mice lasted around a year to a year and a half on average. When they worked, they were excellent, but too quickly did I start to have problems with the laser.

Since then I bought this random Reddragon mouse that was half the price on amazon and I have put it through about three years of work and it's still holding up great.

Razer looks great, works great for a while, but I compare it now to the beats by Dre, strong marketing and appearance, but low quality for the price.

u/StealthyNeo · 1 pointr/hoggit

Here are my recommendations.

---------

VR

Keeping your current computer, Oculus Rift is a good option. Light weight, and fits DCS right.

There are a few upcoming VR headsets, but you may have to upgrade your hardware. You can expect an upgrade in another year or later. So, I recommend living with the Rift for an year or 2.

-----------

HOTAS

Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog is the beast I always recommend. You might need a rudder pedal.

Since you love the су-27, VPC Mongoose T-50 might be your choice. Again, you need a throttle from Warthog and a rudder pedal.

You also have Logitech G X56 and X52 Pro. You don't need a rudder pedal in this case, so you can save a lot. I've personally used them both and moved to the Warthog HOTAS.

Lastly, you have Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS, good reviews, best entry level HOTAS.

---------

Rudders pedals

MFG Crosswind, Slaw Device, Saitek, CH.

u/Blasterion · 1 pointr/hoggit

> Don't by a plane with complicated systems and tricky/unique flight characteristics if you can't fly an F-15 proficiently. The FC3 planes have simplified systems but most have the same level of flight model. The F-15C and Su-27/33 are 3 of the best air to air planes in the game, so you're not at a disadvantage in that regard, if they were full fidelity they'd probably be even better (more radar modes to work with is one that comes to mind), master these then get the mirage

Thanks I think I'll stick with the FC3 planes mainly the F-15C for now, I heard that Mirage is not ransferable between Steam and Standalone so that might be a problem.

Also Can Steam players play with Standalone players?

> Get a proper hotas before going past the FC3 aircraft

So HOTAS X would be insufficient? I did look at the T16kM do I need the throttle combo? or just the stick? since I see there is what looks like a small throttle slide right there

and what do you think about the VKS Gladiator MkII stick? I've been eyeing it for a while (because I like how it looks, but expensive, I'm probably more likely to get T16K M. )

One last thing, Su-27, the engine won't start, I know the Start up sequence is pretty similar for all FC3 planes, I did the same things I do on the F-15C but the Throttle doesn't respond, there is no engine noise the plane just won' start.

MiG29 did respond to the same start up sequence, (battery>cockpit>engine>Nav lights>flaps)

u/Route66_LANparty · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Lian-Li's TU100 case might be perfect for you:

u/_flq · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

To address the number pad/macro pad element of this search, I would suggest a 75-100% keyboard as this range tends to have a number pad. If a macro pad is a must, you could take a look at software that could trigger macros from your number pad (kind of like an IME or something of the sort).

If you're playing OSU and FPS the most, I would recommend a keyboard with MX Red switches. Although they aren't the best things on earth to code on, nor are they the best to play MMORPGs on, I can speak from experience when I say that they certainly get the job done for long typing hours due to their light actuation force and are great for gaming as that's what they were designed for. In fact, this entire comment was typed on them and I found it to be quite enjoyable. You learn the actuation force pretty well with time so bottoming them out all the time really isn't an issue. However, most boards have MX Brown and MX Blue variants, so if you find that you enjoy one switch more than the other there's always a little room for adjustment prior to purchase.

With these constraints being taken into consideration, a search or two returned recommendations along the lines of:
CM Storm QuickFire TK
Leopold FC900R Black PBT Mechanical Keyboard
Red Scarf III Ver. A (Please note that this is a DIY board and will not be available for a considerable amount of time)
CM Storm QuickFire XT

And Topres, if that's your thing and you have the money to spare:
Topre Realforce RGB Premium Mechanical Keyboard

EDIT: Formatting

u/Worknewsacct · 1 pointr/buildapc

His current setup is strong enough that you aren't going to be able to upgrade it all that much in terms of CPU/GPU.

My recommendation would be to look at a mechanical keyboard (they're AMAZING if he's just using a normal rubber dome keyboard) or a new monitor for that price range. Those are very obvious items that generate a lot of value to the user (you type every day and always look at the monitor right!?) so it's better for gifting.

I'd look at a keyboard with Cherry MX Blue or Brown switches - they're great for typing, very tactile and responsive.

This is a fantastic new board, and saves on desk space if he doesn't use the number pad often. If he does, this is the larger version. The fancy RGB LEDs can be made to twinkle and react to typing, and can be programmed with the colors of his favorite teams and stuff. It's a neat gift.

u/Taco-Pterodactyl · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

Yes, the game supports wing play, with the maximum wing housing 4 commanders. This is best used while partaking in combat, however wing missions allow you to trade as well. Exploration isn't the best wing activity, however you could journey alongside one another in the same instance.

Controllers are great, however I fully recommend a HOTAS after you've learned the game. The only thing better for E:D than a HOTAS is VR, once you have both the game becomes a truly remarkable experience. I recommend this guy here: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA

u/Masark · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

Depends on your definition of "Break the bank". At the entry level, you're looking at spending about $50 USD.

  • The Thrustmaster T-flight HOTAS X - This is entry level HOTAS that goes for $40-50 USD. 12 buttons, an 8-way hat, twist stick, and rudder rocker. This tends to have the "a little short of controls" problem, as Elite has lots of stuff to bind, so you'll likely want to either use the keyboard for more buttons or set up a series of modifiers like this to fit everything on it. The HOTAS One and HOTAS 4 (for the Xbox and PS4, respectively, though both are also PC compatible) are slightly upgraded versions of this stick, with the same exterior, but improved internals tightening the deadzone and making them a bit more precise. They're usually more expensive than the X, but you might catch them on sale for cheaper occasionally. Note that this unit only uses 1 USB port, as the throttle and stick are connected to each other via a cable (about 20" long). This is something to keep in mind if you plan on mounting them to chair arms or something. I personally used this unit previously. It's a perfectly good setup, though I personally found the lack of buttons to be annoying after awhile. Note that the throttle has a detent at 50%, making it nicely suited to full range operation, with the detent separating forward and reverse.
  • The Thrustmaster Stick X. This unit is basically the above, but without the throttle and the buttons transferred to the stick base along with a throttle slider. Rings in at a little cheaper at about $30 USD.
  • The Thrustmaster T16000M. This is a refreshed version of the classic T16000M, with minor exterior changes (reshaped hat, reshaped trigger, reshaped throttle, and tactile indicators on the base buttons). It's notable for being one of the rare ambidextrous sticks (you just swap out a couple parts to switch it) Unlike the X (which uses potentiometers), this unit uses contactless hall effect sensors, giving it very smooth motion with excellent precision. 16 buttons (12 of which are on the base), an 8-way hat, twist stick and throttle slider. More buttons available than the X. The stick by itself rings in at about the same price as the HOTAS X at $50 USD.

    Moving up, there's the Thrustmaster T16000M FCS HOTAS. This is the above T16000M stick along with Thrustmaster's new TWCS throttle and rings in at $130 USD. Totaling them up, you get 19 buttons, two 8-way hats, two 4-way hats, a two-way switch (very handy for supercruise/hyperjump), an analog stick, throttle slider, rudder rocker, and an analog dial, which is plenty of room for all the stuff you need (note that the throttle has no detent, so you'll probably want to run it forward only with a button assigned to reverse. Though if you're handy, people have come up with modifications to add a detent). This is what I personally use and I quite like it. Note that all the components of this set are available separately and can function independently (each needs its own USB port, so you might want to buy a hub with these). So you could buy the stick today and the throttle next month. Or buy the throttle and some other stick or buy two sticks, or whatever mix and match scheme you like. There's also a matching set of pedals (the TFRP rudder) available if that's your jam.
u/gmcemu · 4 pointsr/funny

Here's the one I bought off amazon. It works great but it's the og japanese version that has a shorter cord than the US version. So you may want to get a usb extension cable if your planning on playing very far from from your pc. I use a mayflash adapter to connect it to my pc and it's automatically recognized by most platformer type games I play like super meat boy, super house of dead ninjas, and electronic super joy.

u/Xintros · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I would check out the monoprice keyboard - https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13858 I don't have any experience with it personally but it's a good price. The RGB colors are not changeable and you can't do fancy lighting features (not sure if that matters to you.) It has blue and red switches available.

This Gskill might be another decent option, better options and more switch options but more expensive - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823828020&cm_re=rgb_keyboard-_-23-828-020-_-Product

The G910 has AWESOME RGB lighting - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823126489&cm_re=rgb_keyboard-_-23-126-489-_-Product
the build quality is pretty plasticky and you may not like the romer G switches.

Personally I use a coolermaster masterkeys - https://www.amazon.com/MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard-Intelligent-Switches/dp/B01D3BDN60
I have the ten keyless but it's a solid keyboard with nice software features, but a little pricier. You may also want to check out the Corsair keyboards in this price range.

u/dr_lorax · 5 pointsr/hoggit

Lol, that’s the million dollar question. I’m not sure what your budget is but I seem to think I’ve heard good things about the Thrustmaster T1600 stick and throttle T1600 Amazon. I hope that link works but it looks like the stick and throttle are $129 for the pair and that seems like a good deal to me but I got my setup a few years ago so not sure about the pricing and deals that they have now. My setup is also a Thrustmaster but it’s the Warthog Hotas which is a bit higher on the price scale but I’ve been happy with the brand. I hope this helps a bit.

u/imaginarygary · 1 pointr/elderscrollsonline

My specialty, cheap gaming peripherals!

Here are some of my recommendations:

E-3lue Mazer II wireless

Cheap but good Anker mouse

Cheaper alternative to the Razer Naga


For higher range mice, in the 50-100$ range, I'd suggest either sticking with Logitech or Razer. I personally use a Logitech G9X mouse, considered by a lot of people (myself included) to be THE BEST gaming mouse ever made, however it only has 5 buttons and currently costs over 180$.

However, this is one that I'm eyeballing pretty hard, since it has a ton of buttons and is wireless, thus easier to take with me travelling.

My biggest suggestion, however, is to find a mouse that has interchangeable weights. I know it sounds like a silly gimmick, but by having different weights you can fine-tune your mouse to different playstyles and games. A heavier mouse allows for more precision (think long range sniper shots), whereas a lighter mouse allows for better reaction time. Once you use a weighted mouse it's very hard to go back.

u/JulsIII · 3 pointsr/Vive

The TM 16000 HOTAS - I use this for ED - Super awesome for the price. Most HOTAS are overpriced. This one is fantastic for the cost. TONS of buttons and neat features on the throttle you won't see anywhere else! I love the little throttle finger joystick, it makes for perfect lateral and vertical movements to mix with the joystick movements. The X52 will match the in-game model better, but honestly while in VR and doing stuff you're not going to be starring at your joystick and throttle in-game model...like at all. Best budget HOTAS imo.

amazon link - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KCHPRXA/

u/Didactic_Tomato · 9 pointsr/starcitizen

HOTAS is great and fairly easy to learn, though I heard double joystick is better for control.

I use the Thrustmaster T-16000M HOTAS which I know is pretty popular.

I'm hoping SC will have a preset for this set up at some point, because it becomes way easier to tweak it from a default setup than start completely over (for me).

For reference I've only been using HOTAS for about a month and I'm already 10x better at flying than I was. Also my landing looks way better ;)

u/Frawtarius · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've never gotten this question, and I've never really outright asked. What is a "gaming keyboard" for you guys? Is it snazzy lights? A cool logo?

You can get pretty much anything beyond a specific logo on any non-gaming keyboards. You can get media controls on pretty much any keyboard, more or less. You can get non-gaming keyboards full-sized, or TKL with a separate numpad, or a 60% and learn to use Function layers more (which is what I do, and have done, for a while, for both gaming and other functionality on a computer). You can get RGB lights on keyboards that aren't designated as "gaming" keyboards (though, admittedly, these are mostly custom keyboards, as mass-produced, mainstream, ready-made keyboards are usually designated "gaming" keyboards when they have RGB lights).

The only thing I'd recommend you look out for is to make sure it has mechanical switches, because their lifespan is much longer (than typical rubber domes on most keyboards). Mechanical keyboards last years upon years upon years, and the switches can be replaced individually (should they fail) if you're up to open the keyboard's case; on the flipside, if you want a snazzy "gaming(TM)" keyboard, then those very often see early failures in the individual LED lights that make up the RGB lighting, which are far more failure-prone.

tl;dr: Pretty much any good keyboard is also a good gaming keyboard, because good keyboards are defined by their switches and their durability; media controls aren't really used in gaming anyway, and are usually substituted with Function layer keys anyway.

Also, looking around Canadian Amazon, I realized 150 CAD is a bit less than I thought (seeing as I'm used to dealing with pounds and euros), but you could just get something like this, which is at a very reasonable price (though I haven't used this keyboard myself). On the flipside, I would warn you against keyboards like this one, which say they use "Cherry MX Blue Equivalent" switches, because the "equivalent" - especially when they don't name the switch and just say it's "Custom mechanical switches" - usually means they're some really low-quality switches, and you might find them not being nearly as durable, and feeling really weird and mushy right out of the box.

For other alternate options, you could consider this one, or something like this, if you don't care about RGB lights (because it has a few less noticeable (but more useful, in my opinion) features, like double-shot PBT keycaps, which take much, much longer to wear out and develop a "shine" on the keys; and a USB type-C connector, which is really just more convenient and more durable than the old(er) microUSB or whatever other connector a given keyboard has). It has a Space Grey colour option as well.

At the end of the day, all you need to really consider is the size of the keyboard (which you can make a bit easier for yourself by getting a separate numpad, should you really need one), the switches (which will change how the keys feel when you press them down), and programmability (i.e. whether the keys can all be re-binded or not). Everything else is tertiary, and mostly just vanity.

u/T01110100 · 2 pointsr/MouseReview

Keep in mind that most of these will have a generic stiff shit cable nor can I promise the shape will be for you.

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If you also plan on playing FPS with it:

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For 20 USD(!) back at 30 USD, the Havit HV-MS735 is a pretty good budget option. Has a 3360 sensor, 12 grid, side scroll, and is ~107 grams with the internal weight removed, which isn't too bad for a 12 grid mouse, not to mention it being at the current price that it is.

​

At 30 USD, the updated Redragon M901 is the lightest 12 grid mouse available with a 3360. Has an additional button on the left side, and doesn't require any opening up to remove the weights. Weighs in at only 87 grams without weights.

​

At 60 USD (50 refurbished), the Corsair Scimitar is a 12 grid mouse with a 336X variant. Has the gimmick with adjusting the 12 grid, which is actually not too bad because if a 12 grid doesn't sit exactly right, you either lose full functionality or comfort. Unfortunately weighs a buttload at ~120 grams, which is normally a deal breaker for some.

​

Of course the Naga Trinity, which has the side panel gimmick. If the cable is like any recent Razer mouse, it'll have the best cable of the bunch by far. Also ~120 grams, so another monster in the weight class.

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If you don't care about having a good sensor:

​

Logitech G600 at ~34 USD is an okay mouse. Logitech software is a lot better than Synapse and the crap the Chinese OEMs have. Has a pretty garbage sensor in it though, so FPS is going to be a no go.

​

Honestly though, the HV-MS735 and M901 are good. Unless you insist on using a mainstream mouse or dislike Chinese OEM software, the Redragon M901 is amazing due its weight class and the HV-MS734 is a budget god at 20 USD is still really good at 30 USD if you want side scroll.

u/unforgiven60 · 2 pointsr/wow

If you mean how hard is the physical pressing action, it does not take much pressure. The buttons are small. I'd say it's about the same amount of pressure to push one as it does a normal key on a keyboard.

If you mean how easy is it to reach all of them? All 12 buttons are concentrated in a rectangle that measures probably 1"x2". For me, reaching buttons 1-9 is pretty easy without even having to shift my thumb at all. Buttons 10-12 took some getting used to but now it's second nature.

The biggest hurdle is just adjusting your muscle memory to using the mouse buttons for the majority of your actions. It took several play sessions to get used to it. To be honest, I felt like I was pretty worthless at first because I'd get lost in the heat of battle trying to remember what key I needed to hit. Lost several GCD's every now and then and also casted the wrong spell plenty of times. After a few sessions, it all pretty much clicked though and now it's second nature.

Don't switch to this style and expect an immediate improvement. You will get worse before you get better. Just like if you totally change up your keybinds, your body has to adjust.

Here is the mouse I bought. It's pretty cheap, so hopefully if you think it will help you, the investment is minimal. They make higher dollar ones that are probably better, so you can check those out too if you don't like this one.

They call them MMO gaming mice. If you want to search for that on amazon

u/Ibney00 · 1 pointr/GlobalOffensive

1: Well if you are looking to build a PC, I can't help you. But google may be able to. And if you are looking for advice on what to use to build one, there is /r/BuildMeAPC.

2: From what I know of computers, not much. Laptops aren't the best thing to be playing CS on. Everyone will say that. Even Globals in Rank-S who won MLG KatowiceHack Open One Winter Colonge 2018.

3: I would assume? Again I have no clue. These are mostly computer questions you should google rather than asking for advice on a CSGO forum.

4: ??? I don't think there is a way to make the console show only the damage you dealt after death. Unless you are throwing a nade I don't think that is possible.

5: It's like matchmaking but better. With better players who are way above the skill level of GN3. I haven't even started ESEA and i'm DMG. You should probably only start when you get better.

ESEA is not free, however you are right. It seems they took the cost off of the front page. I believe normal was $7 a month last time I checked and premium was $15? But if you want to find out for sure, you can create an account like they seem to want you to to find out.

6: Personally, I use a Logitec G502 and have very few complaints. However right now that is around $70 so its a bit out of your price range. I found the Razer DeathAdder Croma for $54 with a quick google search, and the reviews for it seem good, but I can't speak personally about it. It (kinda) has a similar shape to the one you had before.

7: You need one that clicks for lack of a better word. Infinately spinning mousewheels don't work as a measure has been put in place to stop you from achiving Bhop by simply just mashing the space key and the same effect applies here. With a little practice with the mousewheel, you wont be super consistent like on say a Bhop map, but you can land 3 or 4 Bhops consistently.

Hope that helps a bit.

u/Strolb · 2 pointsr/MouseReview

I wanted to buy a Zowie after reading this subredit, but they seem to be out of stock on Amazon and I will have one imported from Canada (a friend lives there and another friend will visit him, so he will buy it for me). The bad thing is I dont have much time to waste. As my friend will be coming back from Canada around June the 20th.


So, I have some options that are currently available on Amazon:

u/iiwong · 2 pointsr/starcitizen

Flying with dual joysticks (and pedals) feels awesome! I got a T16000m FCS plus a T16000m FCS Flight Pack and only use the sticks and the pedal right now

I am gonna configure my setup in a way that I can switch from hosas to hotas when I am not in combat to be able to fly around more relaxed. It should be pretty easy to set up if I play around with the Target software some more.

The first time setting up dual joysticks was pretty tedious. I used TheNOOBIFIER1337's Playlist and the several reddit posts as an inspiration and finally decided to set them up more or less like in this video
To keep my desk uncluttered and my KB/M close I made a setup like this one!. Here are some more Images.

u/CommodityFetishist · 1 pointr/buildapc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-J14fyar5ns

This guy ^ is great for mice.

If you're looking for general purpose, the Logitech G900 is great but pricey depending on where you are. In the UK I can get it for £80 which is pretty good considering it's one of the best mice out there.

For FPS, Zowie FK2 and Logitech G303 are ones to look into. Or a Razer.

Make sure you measure your hand size, the guy above tells you how, and compare to his recommendations. Also identify what your grip type is: palm, finger or claw, as that can matter.

edit: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M G303 is around your budget.

u/_monad · 1 pointr/buildapcforme
I used the i7-4790 instead of the 4770 because it's newer and better, with similar pricepoint. I used a locked (non-k) CPU and an h97 chipset motherboard because you said you'd rather not overclock. I used standard 1600MHz DDR3 RAM because the RAM clock difference between 1600MHz and 1866MHz is really not noticeable anyway. For the SSD I used the MX100, which is currently one of the most popular SSDs out there, it's a nice MLC SSD, as opposed to the recently outcasted TLC 840EVOs. For the secondary storage device, I used a 1TB 7,200RPM HDD, which you will use to store all your music/games/etc. The SSD, you will only use to boot your OS and for frequently used applications. As for the case, I used a Define R4 Black Pearl with NO window as you requested. This case has a brushed black aluminum finish on the front panel, with sleek black coating for the rest of the case. It has a swing out front panel so you don't have to see all the 5.25" drive bays and all that stuff. The case also has built-in soundproofing, there are sound dampening foam padding on the most critical sound sinks. It is a bit more expensive than the Corsair 300R, but much better imo. The graphics card I used is an r9 290 with WINDFORCE cooling solution, this cooler is much better than XFX's Double Dissipation. Double Dissipation has trouble dealing with the more strenuous thermal output of the r9 290 series GPUs, WINDFORCE are also clocked higher, and you can switch the vBIOS from quiet to performance mode through the physical switch on the side. I used a SeaSonic 620W fully modular PSU, SeaSonic is the premium brand in power supplies, they're often much more expensive than competitors because they ONLY use high quality Japanese capacitors and their PSUs are the most reliable on the market. You should never skimp on a PSU and use a $30-50 PSU when dealing with $1,000+ builds. It's like driving a Mercedes Benz with standard fuel instead of super. As for the OS, I used W8.1, it uses less system resources than W7, it auto TRIMs SSDs, auto defrags HDDs, has built-in virus protection, and is backwards compatible anyway. Just download "classic shell" and you will have the start menu and W7 feel back, disable side menu swipe in, gestures, and it'll be EXACTLY the same. The monitor is a standards 60Hz 1080p 23" display, the difference between the monitor I chose and the monitor the other guy chose is that this one has an IPS panel, which has greater colour accuracy and the image does not distort when viewed from non 90degree angles. TN panels have higher refresh rates but the further from 90 degrees you look at the display, the more distorted the image gets.

As for the keyboard, I highly recommend the CM Storm QuickFire TK, it has MX Brown switches, and is fully LED backlit. $88.64 + free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-TK-Mechanical/dp/B00A378L10/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410703669&sr=8-1&keywords=cm+quickfire+brown

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor | $289.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $88.98 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $74.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $73.99 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $54.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card | $373.98 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | SeaSonic 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $74.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $99.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | LG 23MP55HQ-P 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $126.00 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1331.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-14 16:27 EDT-0400 |
u/iCeCoCaCoLa64tv · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Logitech G502 is always a good choice, but if you like MOBAs you might be interested in an MMO mouse. I've been using my Redragon Perdition M901 for years and it's still going strong, and it feels great. Highly recommend if you're interested in such a mouse.

u/teelap · 2 pointsr/MouseReview

NAGA EPIC USER HERE

I just dumped mine after the 3rd RMA. The original Nagas (2012) were amazing but the recent iterations have been pretty poor. Here are the options I found:

Corsair Scimitar Pro This is a smaller mouse than the naga, but provides the 12 button pad and has great software to boot

Logitech G600 This one is just a little too bulky for me, I have very small hands, but it is logitech. The dual dish feature is too weird for me.

Steelseries Rival 500 Not your standard layout, but a good sensor. Large mouse , very similar to the naga epic.

In the end, I went with the Rival 500, because I liked the features (programmable rumble support) and the Pixart 3360 Optical Sensor was a good choice. It is heavy, so not ideal for fps, but i use it anyways.

Also, there is always knockoff on amazon. My brother has this one and he loves it. Eh?

u/PanicAtTheCSGO · 1 pointr/GameDeals

Hmm. Well luckily there are lots of options for small mice so it shouldn't be an issue. Possibly even the diamondback, I believe the reason its not well reviewed is its unergonomic flat shape, most mice fit the hand better but of course this could be good for some people. Anyways moving on:

Logitech G Pro https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Gaming-Advanced-Sensor-Competitive/dp/B01JPOLLTK/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1481510038&sr=1-1&keywords=logitech+g+pro
Confusingly it actually is named the G Pro. Its basically a small, simple mouse but it has the best sensor on the market and is made by Logitech so it should in theory last a while.

Zowie za13 https://www.amazon.com/Zowie-Competitive-Gaming-Optical-ZA13/dp/B012B6XVKQ
This is their only mouse listed as small. I haven't personally tried one though, but their ec2-a has the same internals and is widely regarded as a good mouse, I liked it.

If you want any other suggestions or help let me know!

u/onliandone · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme
$1500 is not really the budget for a 144Hz build. You can get a PC that plays those games and you can also get a 144Hz display, but it won't be a PC that is suited for 144 FPS in new games. But in older games it will work, so maybe that is okay for you.

pc-kombo shared list

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 1500X | $234.99 @ Amazon.ca
Motherboard | ASRock AB350M Pro4 | $109.99 @ Newegg.ca
Memory | G.Skill Aegis DDR4 DDR4-3000 8GB (8 GB) | $82.99 @ Newegg.ca
SSD | SanDisk Plus 240GB TLC (240 GB) | $115.85 @ Amazon.ca
Video Card | ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1060 Mini | $329.99 @ Newegg.ca
Case | RAIJINTEK Arcadia Midi-Tower - white | $49.99 @ Newegg.ca
Power Supply | be quiet! Pure Power 10 (500 W) | $69.9 @ Newegg.ca
Operating System | Windows 10 Home (32/64-bit, USB Flash Drive) | $129.99 @ Amazon.ca
| Total | $1123.69
| Generated by pc-kombo 06.08.2017 |

With https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160177 as display. That will leave you enough money to get a keyboard like https://www.amazon.ca/Redragon-KUMARA-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B016MAK38U and https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CH-9301011-NA-Harpoon-Backlit-Optical/dp/B01M9DDCKD as mouse. Step down to a 60Hz display if it gets too expensive.

But you maybe should experiment with ergonomic mouses instead. https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Wireless-Vertical-Ergonomic-Optical/dp/B00FGI2QVC/ is one common form, https://www.amazon.ca/M618BU-Optical-Ergonomic-Vertical-Connector/dp/B00AYXUIO6/ goes a bit further (and wow, that's cheap). They aren't necessarily great for shooters, but for slower games they work well, and the second one especially is great as soon as you are used to it.

There are also ergonomic keyboard. With mechanical keyboards you have to consider that the keys can be harder to press (for the Redragon one that is actually unlikely). That can be good or it can be bad, depending on the user.
u/AeiOwnYou · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Razor Deathadder Chroma is a pretty good gaming mouse. You can turn the LED off pretty easily so its not "xxgamerxx" I'm a pretty hardcore gamer. I use the deathadder. Haven't had any problems with it. Very accurate.

Marathon Mouse is super comfortable in my hand, i used it for a good 4-5 years before i replaced it. Very normal looking, very comfy. Recommend it to anyone that is a moderate-to-allday computer user.

u/swnne · 1 pointr/buildapc

>is it really true that dpi is just a marketing ploy?

Pretty much.
Here is a slightly outdated but still relevant spreadsheet of CSGO pro player setups.

I'd recommend the logitech g203 prodigy, which you can snag for like 30 bucks.
Nearly identical to the g-pro, but without the 50 dollar pricetag, and with a slightly less over the top sensor which has effectively no impact on how well it performs.
2 side buttons + an extra center button; more than enough for FPS games or anything that doesn't require a dozen side button binds.

If you don't already have one, you'll also want a good quality decently sized mousepad with plenty of extra room to use a moderate/lower sensitivity if that's something you'll find helpful.
Standard office sized mousepads leave you cramped for movement room and a lot of people using them end up using sensitivity way too high to compensate.
You can find good pads for around and under $10.

u/Joimz · 2 pointsr/oculus

I recently picked up the Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS to replace my Thrustmaster T-Flight HOTAS X. I would recommend the T.16000M setup over the T-Flight mostly because the throttle and stick are completely separate, which is easy to appreciate when you've fumbled around with the T-Flight's awkward design when it's separated. The T.16000M also feels a bit more robust and having more buttons/options on the throttle (especially in VR) is a huge plus. All that being said, I spent a lot of hours in Elite with the T-Flight and you can't really go wrong with it. I fondly recall the shit eating grin I had on my face the first time I throttled up and instantly felt more 'connected' with my ship. Cheers.

u/kaliwraith · 1 pointr/Metroid

I am finally happy playing an emulator because of this adapter

I own it on SNES (and Wii) but I'm replaying super metroid: redesign (I love the new physics!) and I can finally use an original controller for it! My old 12 button gamepad still is great, though.

u/porksandwich9113 · 2 pointsr/shittybattlestations

If you have the USB model, you can just plug it right in.

If you are wireless, you'll need an adapter like this zetta one.

Fairly cheap, but it is pretty much plug n' play with the Retropie.

Also, I just want to mention, the Pi doesn't have enough power for things like the Wii. N64 games are very hit and miss. Mario Party or Mario Kart work amazingly though. SNES/NES are all amazing, 100% performance. Same with gameboy/color/advanced. I have not tried any Nintendo DS games, but I've heard they run pretty well.

There's tons of consoles on there with a ton of options of games.

u/zushiba · 2 pointsr/IAmA

Wow that was way more information that I had anticipated. It's clear that you've given it a lot of thought.

Honestly as a somewhat fully enabled person myself, I had problems with The Witcher 3 on launch too. I just couldn't wrap my head around some of the default key binds and was happy that I could change them.

I know that WoW somewhat recently added a lot of color blind options for I think the 3 most common types of color blindness. I have no idea how successful they are.

Have you looked into any of the crazy MMO specific mice? There's a few that I'd think would be almost perfect for a usecase such as yours. The Roccat NYTH is fully modular, letting you place the physical buttons in different configurations, remove buttons or add different sized buttons. Then there's those mice with a hundred buttons on the side like the UtechSmart Venus or the Razer Naga. One of those might help you eliminate your keyboard turning. Though, we've had people in our raids that for one reason or another needed to use the keyboard rather than their mice and they seemed to do just fine. I think the whole "Keyboard turning" vs "Mouse Turning" is a similar argument to keyboard & Mouse vs Console Controller.

The reason I ask is not only do I have friends who've been in somewhat similar situations, thought not quite as extreme and because in my line of work I have to implement measures to support people with different abilities.

I'm a programmer at a college who's currently interim webmaster until we find a new one and I have to implement 508 Compliance.

u/sushi_cw · 3 pointsr/EliteDangerous

There aren't a lot of cheap HOTAS options. Some things to consider:

  • T-Flight HOTAS X is relatively cheap at $50, but has relatively few buttons to work with and mediocre sensors that can make fine aiming difficult. A lot of people use it and are very happy with it though.
  • T.16000M FCS is the next step up, and although it's fairly new it seems to be getting a pretty good reception. It's over your budget at $129 though.
  • Dual joysticks is another totally viable and fun way to play, although it may take a bit more work to find a way to control all thrusters that feels natural (some people use twist for forward/reverse, some add rudder pedals, etc). There are obviously lots of possible combinations, one that works for your budget is a T-16000m combined with a Logitech Extreme 3d pro, for $95 combined.

u/getoutofheretaffer · 1 pointr/keyboards

The Cooler Master Quickfire TK is a great backlit option for less than $100, although it doesn't have macros if you care about that kind of thing.

The keyboard is available in a variety of different mechanical switches, so it might be a bit daunting trying to figure out which one suits you best.

Personally, I find the RED switch perfect for first person shooters, as it's very light (seriously, it requires very little force to press down compared to most membrane switches). It's also not tactile, which means that you can't feel a bump when you press it down. Another thing to note is that, like most other mechanical switches, it actuates before you press it all the way down.

The downside is that you might have some trouble typing with it, as the light weight could cause you to mistype. You also might not be sure if you pressed a key down enough for it to be actuated, as there's no bump or click sound to confirm it. Of course, this is something that I have gotten used to over about a week or so, but it can be very strange at first.

Here is a great overview of the other switches.

I can certainly say that mechanical keyboards have improved my typing, but I'm not so sure about gaming. To me, mechanical keyboards are more about comfort. The solid build quality, precision and consistency of the switches just feels more natural to me, which is enough for me to justify spending $150+ on a keyboard, but that might not be true for other people.

EDIT: Spelling.

u/JoeSoSalty · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hey guys, I'm looking for a tenkeyless/60% mech keyboard for preferably around $50, but could go up to like $70 if needed. I've never had a mech before, but I think i'm leaning towards black/red switches. Mainly gaming.

Unfortunately, i don't know too much about it and was hoping to get some help.

Smaller size and backlit is a must, but I don't need all the fancy RGB stuff, just a light of some sort.

Here's a couple that I like the look of: RedDragon one, This one that was posted from earlier today is amazing for it's form/size, as is this one, and I also like this one, but I've heard Corsair is bad?.

Thanks guys!

u/mourning_lemon · 2 pointsr/oculus

The best entry level HOTAS for Elite is (in my opinion) the T16000m setup. I've had that one, an X56, a T.Flight and a logitech flight stick and the 16000m is definitely my favorite. Plenty of buttons, pretty good ergonomics, affordable, and expandable (you can add a second stick and reverse the grips for your other hand as well as rudder peddles, though i don't actually like the ones that match the 16000m). It also has the same HALL sensors as the pro level Warthog flight stick. Elite in VR is awesome by the way

EDIT: you dont actually need a HOTAS for Elite though it is recommended by most people. I played like 300+ hours of Elite on an Xbox one pad. It isn't perfect but it works pretty well considering Elite has console support already so they have put thought into the pad controls. Also you can add a chatpad for extra binds. o7

u/The_DestroyerKSP · 2 pointsr/oculus

Oh hey, I own that joystick! It's old and has huge problems with y-axis, but it was a trusty joystick.

Anyway, depending on how well you can touch type, you could even use KB/M.

I run dual stick - the attack 3 in left hand for thrusters, and in my right a t16000m, works great. (though my t16000m is green/grey, older version, the new one looks like it would be easier to use in VR, and is ED colored). You could also try buying the throttle and using your old joystick

u/JTB248 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

mechanical keyboards are definetely nicer to play on(clicky and easy to tell when you press a key), but are more expensive, a gaming mouse will make a difference if the sensor is better than your current one.

For 60$ I would say

  • Logitech G303 Mouse

  • Large Steelseries mousepad

    The large mousepad helps a lot and is really nice to use, so you can play on a lower sensitivity which will help you aim in games.

    if you do get the money later on, you could get a mechanical keyboard like this one which had brown switches (more quiet but still "clicky").
u/seg-fault · 1 pointr/gamecollecting

I have a few of them, but none are that great. The real deal is what you really want if you're already going through the trouble of buying the knockoffs.

I don't know if you're playing on original hardware or an emulator, but buying something like the retrode is really useful if you want to hook up SNES and/or Genesis controllers. There are 2 inputs for each (4 total) and you can plug in cartridges from either system to back up their gamesaves or game data (not really necessary if you have valid ROMs obtained elsewhere.

You can then use your gamesaves on emulators (including those on your mobile phone) and continue your game. When you get back home you can load the save from the emulator back onto the cartridge and play on your TV.

It's really a no-brainer if you collect carts. If you enjoy Genesis and SNES and have controllers for both, I'd strongly consider. If you just want to hook up controllers over USB and nothing else, then just get this.

/not affiliated with retrode

u/7AB7 · 3 pointsr/starcitizen

Ultimately, it's going to be a matter of taste. What sounds like the most fun to you? That's the question I asked myself a few years ago when the original Arena Commander module released. I decided the answer to that was dual stick, so I got myself a cheap left handed joystick and tried it. Turns out I love it! If immersion is what you're looking for, joysticks certainly deliver, at least in my experience. But I've been playing with joysticks for two decades now so I'm familiar with adjusting to odd control schemes. You may not want to invest that time, effort, and money.

​

If you do decide to try it out, however, there are a lot of cheap options that will give you a taste of what you're looking for without breaking the bank. I used the Extreme 3D pro joystick before upgrading recently, and it was a good option for only $30. Link HERE. There's also the T16000M which is fully ambidextrous for $60. I used it to test dual stick flight. Link HERE. And you may find them cheaper used. You can always upgrade later if it turns out you really like the setup, which is what I did.

​

If all you want to do is run cargo and explore, though, any options will be fine. If you think you'll be happy with mouse and keyboard, don't sweat it! I like decoupled flight and combat so having that additional control over my thrusters is nice and immersive, but that's my situation, not yours.

​

Again, ask yourself honestly what sounds like fun and go from there. If mouse and keyboard seems sufficient to you, there's no point in spending money. No amount of advice from other people can top that.

u/Framp_The_Champ · 1 pointr/buildapc

A little while ago, I went looking for a cool mouse that wasn't too expensive.

While it's hard to call a 40 dollar mouse cheap, this guy fit the bill.

Never heard of the company before I saw it, supposedly they're Chinese. Wherever they're from, they're pretty decent.

It's comfortable.

It has a ridiculous amount of buttons. About half of the 12 buttons on the side are pretty easy to get to without really trying. Luckily, they're also surprisingly large, so once you get used to the mouse, it's easy not to missclick.

The software that comes with it is probably one of my favourite parts. The mouse is hugely customizable, and the software makes is particularly easy. It even comes with scripts for things like multiple key press macros, or the windows "show desktop" button.

If you're wondering, yeah the lights do change colours, you can use a palette in the software to change the colours at will. I've also got a button on the bottom you can press to change profiles, one of which you can set to turn the LEDs off.

u/zzevannn · 2 pointsr/PS4

$100 is only going to get you something used (like a t150 or g29) or something like the T80 that does not have force feedback, and force feedback is probably the biggest reason to use a wheel, so I personally would not recommend going that route.


The T300RS GT is on sale for $200 today for prime day, which is a really good deal for that level of kit. Cheaper than the T150 is usually, and it is a much higher quality wheel (I've had both.) If you've got the scratch right now, that is likely your best bet. Outside of prime day, the non-GT version, which only has two pedals, is typically around 230-250.

Also, browse a bit on /r/simracing, there are a lot of advice questions like this, as well as a very good buying guide that will help you get a good grasp on the options.

As a personal aside, spend a little more up front if you have any inkling this will be a hobby of yours. The t300 made a world of difference once I upgraded after hundreds of hours on the T150, and if you'll be spending a lot of time with it might as well get treat yourself up front.

u/Fallonite · 1 pointr/buildapc

This is the perfect keyboard for him and for your budget:

Redragon K552 KUMARA LED Backlit Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MAK38U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uku9ybS4AQGPB

It is a small, compact mechanical keyboard with red LED's.

I have the RGB version that includes the numpad, but if all he needs are red LED's I see no reason to pay more for multicolored lights and a number pad. This keyboard is small and compact, perfect for a crammed desk.

Now I saw you ask earlier to describe the difference between mechanical and non mechanical. Mechanical keyboards give you a very clicky feel and they are a little loud, so if he games in the living room it may be a bit distracting. I personally love mechanical keyboards for gaming, as they make you much more aware when you actually hit a key. With standard keyboards, they feel very mushy and often you may hit another key or two by accident and not even realize it.

TL;DR: Great mechanical keyboard with Red LED's for $35 before shipping and taxes. Perfect for gaming and typing in case he needs to use his computer for schoolwork. Tell him happy birthday from the Reddit community!

u/BrutalAttis · 2 pointsr/EliteDangerous

Some "higher end" links for you:

  • Ch Throttle -- IMO still the best throttle until VKB/Virpil
  • MFG Crosswind
  • VKB
  • Virpil - great dual stick options here. I liked VKB just a tad more, like the additional button more on VKB. But Virpil has other things going for it too. Like better service!
  • X56 Lotitech - make sure its the latest version, not saitek crap ... even re-branded saitek to logitech. Logitech recently released an update. QA is a huge issue with X56 range.

    Don't use this for E:D Warthog that is my 2c worth. Its maybe looks all metal but has some plastic internals and really is not for space flight sims. Allot of people bitch about the nipple on the throttle. So just my opinion that you should not look at it.

    On the lower end:

  • Thrustmaster T 16000 etc. I have no experience with it. But people like it.
  • X360 controllers etc. some people love it.
  • Mouse and Keybaord -- PvP players swear by it!

    Happy stick hunting, fly safe CMDR o7!









u/staticthreat · 1 pointr/Vive

I have a Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS setup, it's pretty decent and fits into the budget without losing out on too many features.

The throttle and stick are separated so you have the flexibility to position things where you want them. The cheaper HOTAS setups are usually throttle and stick combined with less buttons, if that doesn't bother you then you can save a bit more money.

T.16000M FCS HOTAS on Amazon

You also have the ability to add rudder pedals if you choose to do so but they are a separate purchase.

Good luck and hopefully you find something soon as it's pretty life changing for Elite and many other flight sims.

u/IanP13 · 1 pointr/csgo

Hello! I am a huge fan of the SteelSeries products, but had to replace mine recently due to it dropping clicks a little to frequently for my liking. I switched over to the Razer Deathadder Chroma, and have been extremely happy with it! Here's a link to it on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Chroma-Multi-Color-Ergonomic/dp/B00MYTSDU4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458700387&sr=8-2&keywords=razer+mouse

Another good one is the SteelSeries Rival 700
https://steelseries.com/gaming-mice/rival-700

I hope this helps!

u/azucarr · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I have a Redragon K552 (RGB Backlit) and I love it! It is a bit loud but most mechanical keyboards are. The only downside is that there is no numberpad which is a plus if you are looking to free up some desk space for gaming or something. The colors are not as bright as I would like them to be but they are pretty to look at the key press is comfortable and responsive as heck. For $45 it is a very nice keyboard!

https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K552-Mechanical-Keyboard-Equivalent/dp/B016MAK38U

u/mechanicalgod · 2 pointsr/simracing

I assume instead of GTE you mean the T300 RS GT Edition.

This is the T300 RS GTE, and $400 is not a good price for it.

The difference is the GT Edition has better pedals than the GTE.

re: The T150. There is the Pro version that has the 3 pedal set, but it's currently unavailable on Amazon.

You can also get a separate 3 pedal set like the T3PA, or some refurbished G27 Pedals and the Leo Bodnar Adapter.

For a budget first-time wheel, maybe look second-hand? The G29 is mechanically exactly the same as the G27, and the G27 can normally be picked up for c. $200 or less second-hand.

Also bear in mind, the G29 does not come with a shifter, but the G27 does. If you want a shifter for the G29 you'll need to spend probably a minimum of c. $60 for the Logitech Shifter. However, the Logitech Shifter is pretty shit, so you might be better off getting at least the TH8A.

What's he difference between the G29, T150 and T300?

If you're comparing all the 3 pedal set versions, then the pedals are all virtually equal.

The difference is mainly FFB.

The G29 FFB is fine, but has a noticable deadzone at the top and can sometime feel a little bit notchy.

The T300 FFB is smoother, faster, stronger and quieter than the G29 and has virtually no deadzone. It's significantly better, but maybe not $150 better (depends on what it's worth to you).

I've been told the T150 FFB is somewhat between the G29 and T300, but I've not tried it myself.

u/doomddo · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

ungrinch

Ok something contest winning worthy

I stepped on a wana (Sea urchin) Proof

bonus points

Not sure on what you mean by "dark films" but THIS is one of the most brutal movies I have ever seen. you can get it HERE.

And I am also a gamer. and I just got some new stuff for PC gaming.

Razer Kraken 7.1 Chroma Sound USB Gaming Headset

Razer DeathAdder Chroma

Razer BlackWidow Chroma Mechanical Gaming Keyboard

I dont know what your budget is but the Keyboard Is so good! Its back lit and you can change the color of each key if you wanted too. HERE is a better look at it. and I know the headset you can use with a PS4 but I don't know about 3.The mouse is nice too! but if she is more of a console gamer that plays PC games I would look in to Razer Sabertooth (I know Im a razer fan boy) but there stuff works great! Im going to be looking it to getting me a Sabertooth soon too.

OR you can combined 2 things Like Russian shit + candy = THIS

Hope this helps! and thanks for the contest

u/10000Swags · 1 pointr/runescape

Hi, wired mouse user here because I also play stuff like League, Overwatch, and various other MMOs.

I'm using this mouse atm:

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1480837581&sr=1-1&keywords=g303

It's actually a medium sized mouse so if you have, I guess, average sized hands then here is a good option. This mouse glows up on the logo and on the sides, but if you want to make it change to different colors or have a pulse effect, then you have to download the Logitech program thingy. There are no rubber parts on the mouse, so it is actually quite easy to keep clean. The design is also very neat. You can also customize your DPI if you have downloaded the program, which is actually very useful if you want to keep the same DPI that you are used to with your previous mice. I bought it around 6 months ago after my Razor Deathadder's buttons broke down, and it is still going strong. Currently, it is only $40 on Amazon.

u/Yarik85 · 2 pointsr/patientgamers

A copy of what i sent to one user, but my recommendation still stands:

If you end up buying a joystick one day, I strongly urge you to look for Thrustmaster 16000, or for something with the equivalent of Thrustmaster's HALL effect. It really IS really-really nice. Because with whatever game you end up playing, you may end up using only a few buttons, but the joystick part of it will always be there, so THAT'S what you want to be top notch.

And I may be repeating myself, but that HALL effect is what they use in the pretty much highest end Warthog Joysticks and HOTAS, ones that go for $300+, so even though the buttons and the build itself of the 16000 is the same as of the other joysticks in the 30-50$, the action part of its is way above it's level.

Here's an Amazon link to the pre-order of the new version of the joystick by itself:

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-VG-T16000M-FCS-Joystick-Black/dp/B01MQEDEEW/ref=sr_1_10?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1479623136&sr=1-10&keywords=thrustmaster+joystick

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Vive

/u/caulfieldrunner Save up for this. If you can't afford this, just buy one T16000m joystick (got mine for like $35 I think) and use the keyboard for throttle etc. The t16000m is easily the best joystick for the price. A lot of people actually just buy two of the joysticks and play like that. I wanted to have a throttle in case I ever get into a proper flight sim game though. For space games, two joysticks is perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA

u/rlramirez12 · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Yes you will be, sorry I forgot about the mouse and keyboard :( I failed at that.

I have that EXACT video card and I game on one and watch youtube, stream, skype on the other. It's a 1080P killer card so it runs every game I have thrown at it in Ultra High no problem.

I like the 970 of the R9 because 1 power consumption, 2 the size, and 3 I personally think it's just the best card you can get for the price. Other's will argue with me, can call me an NVIDIA fan boy, but one thing that NVIDIA has over the AMD is optimization for the games. A lot less bugs and better support for games.

As for keyboard and mouse, personally, I just have a regular keyboard and I have a gaming mouse that I found on Amazon for 40 bucks that I absolutely love, but everyone games differently so it's up to you. My philosophy is, if it has great reviews then it can't hurt to try it. I'll throw the Window's Key on there, sorry the site is running really slow here at work.

u/majorfalice · 1 pointr/MMORPG

Also, what mouse which you guys recommend? I am currently looking at this. It's a relatively unknown companies but it has a great price and great reviews. I would love to hear everyones input!

u/maxdps_ · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

If you want to buy once and never again, Fanatec is probably your best bet but it comes at a price.

ClubSport V2.5 Wheel Base is my recommendation for wheel base, check out the steering wheels you like and pick one, this is more preference. This base should basically last you forever, DD wheelbases are highly over-rated in my book.

ClubSport Pedale V3 because they come with the load-cell upgrade already and this is probably the most important upgrade if you take sim racing seriously, it greatly helps with your braking being more consistent.

If else, check out the setup I use. I honestly love it and I don't really see myself upgrading anytime soon. I plan on getting a new setup maybe next year and I'll most likely buy what I posted above if they are still available at the time.

Thrustmaster T300 RS GT and T3PA Pedals

u/cavortingwebeasties · 1 pointr/oculus

HOTAS... games like Elite and flight sims take on a whole new dimension. Thrustmaster T16000m/TCS is a good entry level bit of kit for $100. Lots recommend T-Flight HOTAS but I don't, it's $50 of squeaky disappointment with very low resale value.

Wheel/pedals/shifter... simracing (truck driving, etc) in VR is fucking awesome, but only with a reasonable driving setup. A used Logitech G27 can be found for $150-$200 and is your best bang/buck ratio maybe used G29/shifter.

Both of these peripherals allow full body transfer once set up and used in games that make proper use of them, and those are experiences with near infinite replay-ability that make some of the best use of VR.

u/Caminon_the_Spooky · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

In your case, no. You don't lose out on a thing.

Some good TKL boards, all are RGB but all come in single color variants if you prefer:

-K65 LUX/Rapidfire RGB (If you like Cherry reds): Amazon

-Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro S (This one has MX Browns but I'm sure you can get it in other switches): Amazon

-Razer Blackwidow (X) Chroma TE (If you like cherry blues, both are on the same page): Amazon

-Logitech G410 (Romer-G is a love it or hate it switch): Amazon

Your best bet is the Cooler Master imo, but all of them are good. There are also cheaper boards out there, of course.

u/Driftmaster · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

So I want a mechanical keyboard for a mac but I don't know squat about this other than:

a. these keyboards look and feel great.
b. there are different types of switches.

Would this or this be a good beginner keyboard? Could I eventually replace the switches with these 3D-resin-coated switches that I often see posted here?

I've also seen some beautiful keyboards with wood-grain and the likes; how does one go about aquiring that?

u/Deja-Intended · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

My suggestion is the Logitech G305 for $10 over your budget, but it's got the best wireless sensor on the market. It isn't gamerized by any means and you can add macros to the side buttons if that's what you want. I really like the scroll wheel as well, it's rubberized and textured with distinct steps that aren't too tactile.

For a cheaper wired version, the Logitech G203 is the same mouse only it's using the gold-standard wired sensor. It has RGB, but you can turn it off. Other than that, it has the exact same features and shape.

A friend of mine bought the CM Devastator, but that was like 3 years ago and I don't remember what the mouse felt like(if the scroll wheel was mushy in comparison), but either of these are a lot better.

Granted, I'm using a G Pro which is yet another of the same style, it's just a little older and more expensive than the G203.

u/Wheresmyaccount1121 · 1 pointr/RainbowSixSiege

I had a g502 that I sold to get a Red Dragon Perdition.

Easily the most comfortable mouse I've ever used. I got it for all the buttons on the side and because I used my friends and it was so damn comfy. Its also really inexpensive. I actually don't use the buttons a lot, but I use 1 and 3 for leaning and 4 for push to talk. Also has software to change sensitivity settings, different profiles, lighting (colors and brightness), as well as changing what the side buttons do.

Although I recommend getting the black one. It has a nice gritty/grippy feeling while the white one is, for whatever reason, glossy, smooth, and a bit slippery. I have never seen this mouse recommended, but I love it way more than the g502, or any other mouse I've used.

u/SomeTechNoob · 2 pointsr/buildapc

As pretty as the case is, it has shit airflow. Consider adding more fans, especially intakes.

The rest of the build looks pretty good though.

As for monitor, kb, and also assuming mouse:

Monitor: 144hz 1080p for sure. This one is pretty good: https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/7fhgls/monitor_acer_ed242qr_abidpx_144hz_va_1080p_16999/

For a keyboard, consider grabbing a cheap mechanical. If you don't need a numpad, this will do the trick for the time being: https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-KUMARA-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B016MAK38U/

Best budget mouse. Great sensor and clicks. It is a bit on the small side so keep that in mind: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitech-g203-prodigy-usb-optical-gaming-mouse-white/5799702.p?skuId=5799702

u/Th3bigM00se · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

I for one don't use the mouse to control my ship. If you have one, use an xbox one controller. But I prefer to use a joystick and throttle. I find that using a joystick makes the game much better. If you are on a budget I found that this works great. If you have the money to spare then this is an amazing HOTAS. Now you can also buy the stick and throttle separately on that second one if you would like. Just some options for you. Good luck.

u/Hellraiser133 · 1 pointr/pchelp

Did you try this with a different set of mouse & keyboard, and try to check drivers in device manager, if any caution triangle symbol ⚠️, right click on it and try to update drivers, if it says where to get drivers just say search automatically. After successfull updates restart PC and try with the old peripherals. If works great but If problem still persists then it might be one of the following :

  1. Faulty drivers, Format OS.

  2. problem with keyboard and mouse, replace them if they have warranty or buy Logitech everything.
    Best keyboard - https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/products/gaming-keyboards/g512-mechanical-gaming-keyboard.html#920-008722

    Take the linear keys version is the best.
    Best mouse -
    https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Gaming-Advanced-Sensor-Competitive/dp/B01JPOLLTK

    Best mouse and they both are RGB.

  3. Motherboard needs a CMOS reset and everything might work fine.

  4. last ditch effort, replace motherboard.

    Let me know how it goes.
u/Dimingo · 2 pointsr/starcitizen

I can't speak highly enough about the [Thrustmaster FCS] (https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA)... Amazon looks to be out of them actually...

The T16000M joystick is one of the best ones out there (and can't be beat at its price point), and it's ambidextrous, so if you want to try dual stick, your already halfway there.

The throttle feels rather nice, and you have easy access to more buttons than you'll know what to do with. There's a good rudder for horizontal strafing, and a little joystick on it that I use fit vertical strafing.

One advantage that I get from a HOTAS vs HOSAS is that it translates well to atmospheric flight games (play some of them as well), so no need for extra peripherals.

u/kevstrikes · 1 pointr/RandomActsOfGaming

Wow this is a really big giveaway. Thanks for giving back, most people in your position wouldn't.

As for my requested item. I would like a new mouse as I have had the same mouse for awhile now. The price is $53.54. Thanks again OP and enjoy your winnings!

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Chroma-Multi-Color-Comfortable/dp/B00MYTSDU4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478061823&sr=8-1&keywords=razer+mouse&refinements=p_89%3ARazer

u/3049278 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have a friend that is left handed and play CS:GO and DOTA with me all the time. He is quite a bit older, but he just kind of got used to playing with his right hand on the mouse. If he really needs it. Then getting an ambidextrous mouse would work wonders like the Mionix Avior 7000. A well regarded mouse or the Razer Deathadder is another amazing mouse.

u/camaronmars · 1 pointr/MouseReview

I tried it and it is really too big for me. If palm on my hand on the mouse, the hump is too high and it makes me feel really inconfortable (my arm muscle's are working hard to hand it, thats bad). While the ZA 12 was too small to palm perfectly (it also gave me a lot of pain, more than the za 11).

I tried ZA-11 and ZA-12 and they are not made for me. The SteelSerie Laser Sensei Raw (images of dimensions : https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/02/uk-videogames/2011/dp/B007N6HS3G/image4._V145389784_.jpg) stayed the better to play long time.

what i can say about the sensei raw is that it is a little too short (my two right figners can't be perfectly rested on the side when handing it hard), and that's their somehow something that make it not the best to wrist movements (although wrist movements are possible), I think because of it's size and shape.

I'll give it a try to the EC1A, who seems to be used by pro fps players. I don't know if it will fit as the hump is higher than the ZA11 but also it's a bit more further on the mouse.

If it's not ok, I guess i'll give a try to the FK1 or FK1+.

I hope I'll be able to find a good mouse and play again! I tried quickly the death adder chroma today, it seems good, althoug again it could be a little bit longer to be able ro make my finger rests perfectly on the side.

u/baicai18 · 1 pointr/oculus

I was just reading another thread and decided to buy this just today. I had been looking at the x52 for a while, but it's like double the price of this, and have been hearing bad things about them after being bought out by madcatz.

This Thrustmaster was also designed together with frontier, so I'm guessing it should work pretty well? (will find out Friday) I hear the buttons don't feel as nice, as they're not mechanical except for the trigger, but apparently the sensor accuracy is better. Not really sure which is better better, but just giving you another option.

I'm coming from a T.Flight Hotas X and voice attack, and that's already working great, but I can't find a good way to mount the T.Flight, so looking for an upgrade.

Voice attack is amazing, and I honestly don't think I can go back to not using it. Like someone else said, anything not combat related I don't need buttons anymore, which was a big problem with my T.Flight

u/DammitChris · 1 pointr/retrogameswap

So worth it. Much better than getting a cheap 3rd party controller. I got this one, and it has two controller ports so I can play Secret of Mana 2 with friends, or just good ole Super Street Fighter II. I'm really really pleased with it. /Endorsement over

u/totemcatcher · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Question 1: Are there any decent Cherry MX red/brown clones worth looking into? I find a lot of nice layout keyboards from mystery Chinese vendors, but I don't want an awful experience for half the price.

Question 2: Any recommendations on just the left side of a keyboard?

  • Number pad unecessary. Condensed navigation is fine.
  • No weird layouts. INSERT and DELETE close (or Fn overlap)
    RIGHT SHIFT, RIGHT ALT, LEFT CONTROL, BACKTICK, 12 discrete FUNCTION KEYS.
  • Low profile key caps. (Spacebar 1.25cm. FN12 1.5cm.)
  • Quiet. Cherry red/brown or LP scissor switches. Light.


    EDIT: I guess I'm looking for an 87 key or less keyboard. There are loads of them out there, but /r/mk people seem to be hating on them because the tactile response is different all over the keyboard. Here's some that I've been looking at.

    Reference:

  • 43cm https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0006JK9QK
  • Currently own this very low profile and quiet scissor switch kb.
  • Still working well after 7+ years of abuse.
  • It's too wide at 43cm and has an oddly condensed navigation pad.
  • xmodmapped Sweden/Finland key, Backslash, and Alt keys.
  • Silly bevel makes it even wider.

    Comparison:

  • 42cm https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01M4Q8TCX/
  • Demonstrates that a full keyboard fits within what I currently have. :/

    Full navigation pad, no number pad:

  • 35.7cm https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01DBVGZSA/
  • Sane layout
  • These "Mechanical Eagle" keyboards seem really common, how are they?
  • Any options for "quiet" or "low profile" in this design? Perhaps minus the bevel?
  • Looks tall. Need ramp.

  • 35cm https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01EY9D2L6/
  • Even better than that mechanical eagle with no bevel
  • Concerned about quiet/low profile.
  • Looks tall. Need ramp

  • 34cm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E57PUNA/
  • Nope: Can't do Fn function keys and backtick.
  • However, apparently Cherry brown-like means quiet? This is a good sign!
  • This modified nav pad is neat, but a pointless tease.

    Super compact (condensed navigation, no number pad):

  • 31cm https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N01RO2R/
  • Layout looks really good (I don't use right control, can map mod+right alt as right_super)
  • delete and insert same key is cool af
  • Fn pause/print/scroll is also cool af

  • 31cm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DDFLFNE/
  • Even better layout. Scroll lock? (Can probably map around it)
  • I read some bad stuff about "ZORRO" switches.
  • looks slightly shorter than last one.
  • honestly, the best layout. I might buy and then just order a bag of nicer switches if it comes down to it.

  • 35cm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VITZ98/
  • excellent scale and arrangement.
  • delete and insert over backspace.
  • huge bevel, mostly awful design.

  • 35cm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002QFOKOO/
  • excellent scale and arrangement.
  • delete top right.
  • cheap shit, don't make me do it.


    EDIT: omg, I need to stop. I can't determine if these small layout keyboards can have their switches replaced or if new low profile keycaps are even an option.
u/SpecCRA · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

What do you think of this? It's the cookie cutter board recommended by the community for a number of reasons. Mainly, it's great quality, allows for customization, and although expensive, is super solid. I know it's at the top of your budget. You could also get a cheap set of PBT shine through keycaps on aliexpress like this.

This is another great, solid option. It has even better keycaps and is super flashy. You will have no problem expanding on either of these if you so choose to later.

u/panix187 · 1 pointr/MortalKombat

OK, I play on PC so I think this should work for you.

I'm in the same boat. Grew up playing MK1-3 at the arcade and wanted to play MKX.

After trying to play on a controller, I couldn't get into it. So I decided to go the fight stick route. Had no clue which way to go but after lots of searching and whatnot, here';s what I found.

Biohazard and others like to use a TE2. It seems to be the bee's knees. I didn't want to sink $200 into a stick to try out so I got a Qanba Drone. The joystick didn't feel right so I found this tutorial that shows ya how to change the joystick out for a better one. Now, technically it's not like the old MK1-3 sticks in the arcade but I've grown to like it. You can change out the buttons too if you want but I haven't done that yet.

If you want a fight stick that's like the old MK arcade sticks, you want one of these.

Let me know if i can help ya out anymore.

u/Adiel-the-Blue · 1 pointr/ffxiv

I used to have the razer naga mouse, wasn't bad but I had some issues with it pretty soon, double click, wheel pushing stopped working, and I read this happens pretty often, so once it stopped working completely I got this cheap one https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-Programmable-Precision-Buttons-Windows/dp/B00GU8W5AE

While it does feel and look a little cheap, I'm super happy with it, had it for like a year now, no issue whatsoever. A very pleasant and unexpected surprise.

u/rtkaratekid · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hey guys, looking for some expertise from the most clacky subreddit out there!

Just started grad school and, as part of the program, was given the new MacBook Pro, complete with it's awful butterfly switched keyboard (boooooo... ). So:

u/BlindSp0t · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Just go with Ramzinho suggestion as it's the best (you should try out some mice for yourself, see which one fits your hand and your grip better, only you can do that).

But as you asked for a rundown of mice, here's my experience:

A4Tech AK47

PROS

  • Really cheap
  • Solid
  • ambidextrous
  • Can select out of a few DPI settings

    CONS

  • No additional buttons (thumb or otherwise) except for the DPI switch.
  • Kinda flat
  • Ugly design

    My first "gaming" mouse, I had no money left after building my computer so I went for this one. It's good for a starting mouse, but low end and the missing thumb buttons are a big turn off.

    Logitech G700

    PROS

  • Logitech freeroll mousewheel
  • A LOT OF BUTTONS
  • Polling Rate and DPI settings

    CONS

  • Heavy
  • The charging cable is super hard to move and you are required to use it at times since the mouse battery is insanely ridicule. I mean it lasts only a few hours on a full charge...
  • Battery is shit
  • Mousewheel quality is shit. Broke 2 mice in a month.
  • Kinda weird grip on the mouse, not really comfortable.
  • Logitech gaming software
  • Only for right handed people

    This mouse is huge, has a lot of features, a lot of buttons, and a lot of flaws. Not recommanded for fast paced gaming because of the short battery duration or heavy ass charging cable.

    Razer DeathAdder

    PROS

  • Not really expensive in the US (really expensive everywhere else tho)
  • Best form factor for a lot of people (subjective)
  • Nice and big thumb buttons
  • Nice and satisfactory click when pressing buttons
  • Available for both right and left handed persons
  • DPI and polling rate settings
  • Really low activation point (<3mm) so you won't make huge weird movements if you're one of those that lift their mouse a lot.
  • Can save profiles

    CONS

  • Razer Quality (broke 3 over a total timespan of 2 years)
  • Razer Gaming Software

    One of the best mice I used overall, I'll still be using one if they weren't so cheaply made and broke so much.

    Steelseries Sensei Raw Rubber

    PROS

  • Ambidextrous
  • Good form factor if you have big hands
  • DPI and polling rate settings
  • Low activation point

    CONS

  • Issues with the mousewheel

    A good mouse overall, but kinda bland compared to others, as in not really providing good value for the money. Also has mousewheel issues, which is what made me switch to something else. The issue appeared after a good 7 or 8 months, but was really fucking with me after a while. Basically it would go randomly up when you scrolled down, and vice versa.

    Zowie FK2

    PROS

  • NO DRIVER!!!
  • Ambidextrous
  • DPI and polling rate settings (you can't precisely set your DPI, but you have 4 settings to switch from a button)
  • Really precise
  • Really low activation point (almost on par with razer's deathadder on a razer goliathus mat)
  • Really solid build
  • discreet mouse if you're not into the usual gaming gear design

    CONS

  • Not braided cable (my cat chewed the cable off of my first FK2 :()
  • kinda expensive for the amount of goodies it carries
  • The DPI button is located below the mouse, so it's not practical if you like to switch on the fly during gameplay.

    The mouse I'm currently using. It comes close second to Razer in terms of how comfortable it is for me. It's light years ahead in terms of quality. As you probably remarked, I'm not really taking care of my mice (thanks CS), but this one is indestructible. No driver bullshit, but that means no precise DPI settings (you've got 4: 400, 800, 1600 and 3200), and no profiles but that really isn't an issue. Large Teflon pads, it glides really nicely on my goliathus control mat, almost as well as the deathadder. Dunno what else to say, apart that I'm currently happy with it even though I long for the day someone makes a solid deathadder. I'm even using the one my cat chewed the cable off of at work, with a bit of tape it's working fine as long as I don't move the cable too much.

    edit: who puts an "s" at the end of mice?
u/bobel33 · 1 pointr/SiegeAcademy

I personally use a razer deathadder chroma but IMO its personal preference (razer fanboy). My good friend uses this mouse and thinks its really good. this is one of the best and lightest mouse on the market. Sadly its almost always sold out so going for that mouse could take a few months. Hope this helped.

u/Antaniserse · 2 pointsr/patientgamers

As already suggested, that stick is perfect with all the classics arcade space sims: all the title from the X-Wing series, Freespace series, Wing Commander series and also more recent games even if, with the more complex ones, you'll need to be a little more creative with the mapping software/extra input peripherals, since that stick is a bit light on available buttons

If you can expand the budget a bit, this model is more recent, has better sensors and way more control options... better choice IMO, especially since you are considering ED

Absolute must play for me are TIE Fighter (but i've always had a sweet spot for the first X-Wing) and Freespace 1+2 with the FreespaceOpen engine port

u/dootleloot · 1 pointr/MouseReview

Games: CSGO, Overwatch (Primarily Overwatch)

Hand Preference: Right

Budget:: $30-45 CAD

Hand Size: Big, IDK i'll come back to this when I get home

Grip: Palm

Weignt: No preference

Sensitivity: Low in games, high otherwise

Additional details: I'd like for it to have some extra buttons on the sides, and either a DPI changing button, or an easy to use software to change my DPI

Currently looking at the Razer Deathadder Chroma (On sale) and the Steelseries Rival 100 (Also on sale, but it's been at this price for ages) I have a friend willing to sell me a Rival 300 for $50 CAD, but idk if that's worth it. Currently using this piece of shit. I don't have a mousepad and I am looking to buy one so if you can find a good mouse for under my budget let me know please. Thanks in advance.

u/davidsredditaccount · 2 pointsr/Games

~$100 for a hotas, ~$150 for dual sticks. That's entry level with the Thrustmaster T.16000M, it's a good stick that is the best option for a left hand stick and runs ~$75 if you can get it when it's in stock, the stick/throttle combo is ~100.

If you are unsure what you want I'd start with the Hotas and if you decide you want a second stick later on you can either get another T.16000M or buy a better right hand stick and swap the grip for left hand use. Plus that gives you a throttle to use for other games that either don't support or just don't play well with dual sticks.

There is also the potential to use a stick/mouse combo, left hand stick for movement, with a mouse to control aim.

u/pwnie123 · 1 pointr/classicwow

My favorite mouse if you want the type of mouse that has a lot of buttons:

https://www.amazon.com/UtechSmart-Venus-16400-Precision-Gaming/dp/B00FNKMVUO

I've been using this mouse for awhile now and haven't had double clicking issues like I did with Razr / Logitech mouse. Plus it's a bargain!

Otherwise, I use this while I game on the bed if I don't use a controller:

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-LIGHTSPEED-POWERPLAY-Wireless-Compatibility/dp/B0716ZFWWV/

Despite my stab at Logitech earlier, this mouse is by far the most responsive wireless mouse I've used. Not only that, it can be used on almost any surface since sometimes I use it on a pillow / bed sheet while lounging around in bed and playing games on the TV via steam link.

As for keyboards, for wired I use:

I forgot what brand my wired keyboard is since I'm not home at the moment.

For wireless on the bed, I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G613-Lightspeed-Mechanical-Multihost-Connectivity/dp/B07796MBJ7/

Like above, the Lightspeed tech makes it super responsive even at more than 10ft away. Not only that, you can switch between Bluetooth / Lightspeed allowing you to control up to two different machines at a flip of the switch.

u/lesziii · 2 pointsr/keyboards

As long as you don't mind 87-Key Keyboards, maybe have a look at Redragon's selection.


This is a daily driver under my budget board options.
Redragon K552: https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K552-Mechanical-Keyboard-Equivalent/dp/B016MAK38U/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=k552&qid=1566521034&s=gateway&sr=8-2


Keycaps are widely interchangeable if that's something you want.
Outemu Blues are the switches in the K552. I own several Cherry MX Blue switch boards, I've come to prefer Outemu Blues over Cherry MX Blues, but this is only my opinion.
They're a little more tactile than Cherry's options.


If you're wanting an authentic Cherry MX Blue feel, the second board I prefer if I want a Cherry switch is from HyperX. This is another 87-Key.
HyperX Alloy FPS Pro: https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Alloy-FPS-Pro-Ultra-Compact/dp/B07BKHP2NK/ref=sr_1_4?crid=S3DLUM9NL9K3&keywords=cherry+mx+blue+keyboard&qid=1566521244&s=gateway&sprefix=cherry+mx+%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-4


Another great option and for the Cherry feel it's arguably one of the more cheaper options.
A little more on the gamer oriented side, with lower priced boards this is to be expected. I'd definitely suggest this to a gamer looking for a budget board that's not gonna wear them out on the MX Blue typing experience that fast.


Hopefully this has been of use to you, good luck!

u/MainHaze · 2 pointsr/gaming

An emulator with one of these definitely makes it acceptable. Not quite the same... but pretty damn close!

It amazes me how strong those SNES controllers are. They still work like a charm for me.

u/theDumb12 · 1 pointr/PcMasterRaceBuilds
Here's my suggestion:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor | $144.98 @ DirectCanada
Motherboard | ASRock H110M-DGS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $39.98 @ NCIX
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $44.99 @ Newegg Canada
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $61.94 @ Vuugo
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon RX 470 4GB NITRO+ Video Card | $284.99 @ Newegg Canada
Case | Rosewill FBM-02 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $29.99 @ Newegg Canada
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $55.37 @ DirectCanada
Monitor | Acer G226HQLBbd 21.5" 60Hz Monitor | $109.99 @ NCIX
Keyboard | Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard | $12.98 @ NCIX
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $810.21
| Mail-in rebates | -$25.00
| Total | $785.21
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-15 13:32 EDT-0400 |

I never realized how weak the Canadian dollar is, I was really surprised at how much less it gets you. This is based on the "Crusher" build from the /r/pcmasterrace wiki, plus a keyboard and monitor. I don't have any direct experience with any of these parts besides the monitor, which I got for my girlfriend's computer build (and it's a great monitor at that price)

If you're looking to spend more, the first places to do it are

1. Better motherboard
2. Better keyboard
3. Better processor

Now for other recommendations. I stream on twitch as well, (mostly World of Tanks and other games), and I mostly use a Logitech G430 as my headphones/mic. If you're looking for a new mouse, Redragon makes really great mice at really good prices, I use a Redragon Perdition as my primary mouse for gaming, a Redragon Nemeanlion at work, and a Redragon Centrophorus for my secondary computer (used as a server and for doing distributed computing). For a webcam, I use a Logitech C920
u/Ophidios · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Well truthfully, you won't see folks around here recommend K70s (or Corsair as a brand) very much. They, along with Logitech and Razer, represent a niche of very cheaply-made but well-marketed peripherals.

Sure, using a Corsair or a Razer is going to feel awesome in comparison to a stock Dell/HP rubber dome. But in comparison to a Ducky/Leopold/Filco/Cooler Master (or something you made yourself!), it's a pale comparison at-best.

If you like something similar (black, sleek, and RGB-enabled), I highly recommend you check out the Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro or the Ducky One 2 (confusing name, I know).

u/slyrichard1233 · 1 pointr/MouseReview

This kept getting deleted:

I have 4 reliable ones in mind atm, but I'm really not sure which would best suit me.

Logitech G-Pro

Logitech G-403
 

 

Zowie FK1 or FK2

If any mice guru can help me out, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!!

u/Xcodist · 1 pointr/buildapcforme
This is my exact build. I love it. Feel free to ask me anything.

BTW, you can get that monitor for $300 if you wanted to re-allocate funds.

As for the keyboard, you're looking for rubber dome. A good, cheap, entry-level mech is this one. I personally love it.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | MSI - B350 PC MATE ATX AM4 Motherboard | $93.98 @ Newegg
Memory | *GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $111.99 @ Newegg
Storage | ADATA - Ultimate SU800 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $136.69 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Turbo OC Video Card | $514.98 @ Newegg
Case | NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $61.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | NZXT - RF-FN142-RB 50.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $9.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | Dell - S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor | $425.34 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1632.94
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $1602.94
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-27 01:39 EDT-0400 |
u/Jax_daily_lol · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Obviously there is no "best," however, if you want a full sized mech with RGB, the ducky Shine 6 is a good option. Similar price to a K70 but better build quality. The CM Masterkeys pro L is another option that is probably cheaper and still slightly better build quality. Although corsair is definitely better than the likes of Razer, it is still priced expensively because of the brand name

u/CermaSL · 1 pointr/MouseReview

Games: League of Legends, Not FPS games

Hand Preference: Right or Ambi

Budget: Thinking the most expensive I would go is a deathadder

Hand Size: 18

Grip: Palm

Weight: No Preference

Sensitivity: High

Additional Details: Kinda narrowed it down to the nixeus revel or a deathadder just based on a little research and I would like to know what you guys think.

https://www.amazon.com/Nixeus-Revel-Gaming-Mouse-Windows/dp/B01HHGHCH8

I am leaning towards the deathadder just due the popularity of it, so it's obviously tried and true. I would like to know what you guys think in respect to is it worth the cost. I also don't know what the difference is between these two deathadders, if someone could clarify that would be great. Are there different types like non chroma and chroma?

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Elite-Multi-Color-Comfortable/dp/B01LXC1QL0/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501878159&sr=1-4&keywords=razer+deathadder

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Chroma-Multi-Color-Comfortable/dp/B00MYTSDU4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501878159&sr=1-3&keywords=razer+deathadder

u/KarmaRepellant · 1 pointr/starcitizen

Nice. One of the good things with the T16000M is that it's reversible- so if you want the option of dual sticks you can get a matching one and use it with your left hand instead of the throttle.

This offer is probably the best value hotas you can buy at the moment. The quality is excellent if you don't mind a plastic stick.

u/this_is_my_trees_alt · 1 pointr/patientgamers

It's definitely worth trying! It's very fun and a very solid game and honestly one of the better puzzle games on the SNES. Make sure to play 1P Vs. mode, that's the equivalent of a "story" mode.

If you're playing on an emulator, I would recommend picking up a SNES USB controller or a USB adapter and an official, used SNES controller. I've had this for 5 or 6 years and it's how I play SNES games on PC.

Oh, Kirby's Avalanche is good too. It's not got the Tetris branding, but it's another puzzle game that got reskinned for western release. In Japan, it was called Super Puyo Puyo, and of course Puyo Puyo is still around as a series, including a recent Tetris mash-up.

u/kinggimped · 8 pointsr/EliteDangerous

Unless you're rich and just happy to splurge on whatever's the top of the line, just get a cheap one to start with. Most people start with the Thrustmaster T.Flight HOTAS X, which is cheap and plasticky but it has all the buttons you need and works absolutely fine. I have 1000+ hours in E:D and have never felt the need to upgrade from this HOTAS, though I'll probably get something better when it eventually breaks.

If you find you really like the HOTAS experience and feel like you want to dump some money into it, then you can get something like the Thrustmaster T 1600M or the Logitech X52.

And if you really like it and want to go higher end, there are a few options for that. Just be warned that they start to get real expensive.

u/pandawombat · 2 pointsr/EliteDangerous

Congrats! Elite in VR is amazing, I could never play it on a flat screen again.

​

As for tips to improve quality, there are in-game supersampling options. I can't give you too much information on that, as I don't have a good enough system to utilize it, but it's there.

​

I'd also suggest looking into getting yourself a HOTAS if you really want to enhance the piloting-a-spaceship feel. I bought the Thrustmaster T16000m + throttle and using it with a VR headset is just amazing. Elite even has an in-game controls template specifically for that setup - you can configure it if you want, but I found the defaults to be just fine. I mounted the joystick and throttle to my chair, and combined with VR it really feels like I'm sitting in the cockpit of a spaceship. Can't imagine playing the game without it!

u/D2ultima · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I've seen G502s for $50 before, so I can say it does go on sale. Maybe less often than the others, but the G303 has the same sensor as the G502 and is often around that price range you mentioned, and has the same functionality (two side buttons etc).

Do note that the G502 has a lot of extra functions, like the free scroll wheel etc. Those are excessively useful in non-gaming scenarios. That being said, here it is for $60 USD at Best Buy: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitech-g502-proteus-spectrum-optical-gaming-mouse-black/4803300.p?skuId=4803300

u/HomieMcBro · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ah ok. There are some very good mechanical keyboards at budget prices on Amazon, like this one. As for mice, I'd recommend anything from Logitech, as they are built well and go on sale quite often. It depends on your grip style though, so maybe just stick to the one you have ordered. Cheap mouse pads can also be found on Amazon.

If you ever have questions you can always browse videos on YouTube for help, as there are a lot of great content creators who make vids for all sorts of PC related stuff. I'd check out LinusTechTips or Jayztwocents

u/Bornity · 1 pointr/cad

I use a Red Dragon Perdition Gaming mouse. It has 5 programmable profiles which I have configured for different programs (Inventor, Rhino, Solidworks, Illustrator, CorelDraw). I have the 12 button programmed to switch profiles and each profile can have a different color from the internal LEDs (Helps tell which profile I'm in)

I also have a Logitech G13 Gamepad. It has awesome software which automatically switches profiles based on which program is active. It has 3 quick swap buttons to completely change the layouts in each program, 25 keys per layout. I've programmed keys/macros for all my commonly used tools.

I still have a regular keyboard. Ctrl+Z/Ctrl+Shit+Z (Undo/Redo) is too natural to me, plus other basic commands but I can quickly jump over to the G13 for commands that would require 2 hands on the keyboard and keep my right hand on the mouse.

I have a Waccom Bamboo pen tablet and I've found that touch is in as accurate as a mouse for 3D manipulation. With LClick+Drag, RClick+Drag, MiddleMouseButton+Drag, LRClick+Drag & Scroll Wheel and control all your major 3D view manipulations. A touch pad requires a second hand button press to achieve the same results. Believe me I've tried and mouse + keyboard + gamepad beats the socks off of anything I've found. It's great never having to click drop down menus.

Add in AutoHotKey to run macros/automate and you can model/draft w/o ever looking from the screen.

I'd be interested to hear other people's setups.

u/captain_communist · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

Apologies if questions about gear/peripherals aren't allowed.

I'm loving this game but the KBM controllers are starting to get annoying now that I'm playing more frequently again. I'm looking at HOTAS but I'm just not sure what I should be looking for in this kind of controller.

Right now I'm leaning towards the T-1600M throttle/joystick as it fits my budget the best.

I've found multiple sources that say the X52 Pro is one of the best sticks for Elite, although I'm skeptical of the $70 price hike being worth it.

Will the T-1600M work well for playing Elite, or should I save for a little while longer and jump for the X52 Pro?

In case it's relevant, right now I'm predominantly exploring in the game, though I'm hoping to get more into the combat side of things.

u/Manus_2 · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Anyone else mange to receive one of these Cooler Master intelligent RGB mechanical keyboards from Amazon yet? I ordered one during the last sale, which for me was Aug. 12, AND THEY STILL HAVEN'T SHIPPED THE DAMN THING. What gives here? As far as I can tell, it's in stock on Amazon, but it's just not being shipped out. Is it discontinued, or what? Surely some of you guys here who participated in the sale must've gotten this keyboard by now. At least they haven't charged me, due to it not having shipped yet.

Fortunately, I managed to get Amazon to issue me a $100 credit to my account due to this absurd wait, but the keyboard itself still remains unshipped. All they could tell me, is that'll ship once it becomes available, but why exactly isn't it available in the first place? How could I have managed to place an order it if it wasn't in stock in the first place? What did I place an order for? Thin air?

I suppose my decision now is, do I continue to wait for them to ship my original order, or do I cancel it and make a new order, whether that be on Amazon or somewhere else?

As an aside, has anyone here ever waited this long for an item like this, that being electronics and such?

u/JoieDe_Vivre_ · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Oh I know the feeling. My girlfriend thought it was the funniest thing that I was so excited to build my own computer haha.

So I know you said you're pretty set on the keyboard, but I thought I'd show you this cheaper mech keyboard. There's even one that has RGB. I have the red backlit version and I love it so far. You could spend the difference on a 1070 I think.

Either way its going to be an awesome build!

u/ChiliManiac · 1 pointr/MouseReview

You might check out the G303...https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465548442&sr=1-1&keywords=Logitech+G303



If you're looking for something that's 20 bucks you can find the g100s easily on amazon for 20 dollars or less what we recommend is buying them on amazon then returning them(a few days is usually enough time to figure out if long term usage will give you cramps) and trying another mouse if you're in the United States, Best Buy sometimes has a selection of gaming mice that you can put your hand around.


https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G100s-Optical-Gaming-package/dp/B00SH30V6A?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0


Sadly, we can't match your usage exactly, reviews and advice are approximations of what /r/mousereview does. You'll have to do some experimentation and figure out what gripstyle you use and how big your hands are.


/u/rocketjumpninja might be able to help you out in the OEM mice department better than any of us.

u/tigojones · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

In general, Das, for some reason or another, tend to be a little high-priced for the quality of the board. They're not bad, but you can find better for simliar pricing.

That particular Das you linked to uses some off-brand switch instead of Cherry or Gateron (Cherry is the original that they all copy, Gateron makes a well respected and popular clone).

For example, this Cooler Master Masterkeys L is cheaper, uses Cherry switches and has programmable white backlighting. And this Cooler Master Masterkeys L is only a little more expensive, uses Cherry switches and has programmable RGB lighting.

And Form Factor (from your other post) describes the physical size and layout of a keyboard. Full/100% is your standard keyboard. TKL is the next step smaller, and cuts off the numberpad. 60% is when you take a TKL and chop off the Arrow/Navigation keys and the F1-12 row, leaving just the alphanumeric characters and the surrounding modifiers.

Those are about the three most common form factors, but there are others as well (40% for those looking for something really portable and compact. 65% for those who want a 60% but can't live without the arrow keys.).

u/OurEyesArentReal · 1 pointr/GameDeals

I have a Steam Controller and an Xbox 360 controller. My girlfriend and I played though Lego Marvel Superheroes, the Lego Harry Potters and some of Jurassic World with two different controllers. So if you want to mix and match, you're totally able to.

If you have any controllers laying around, see if you can find an adapter for them.

u/Vipre7 · 1 pointr/mechanical_keyboard

Are you going to be gaming on this PC? I hate recommending mechanical keyboards for people that will be gaming with friends on an open mic. It really does get annoying when you hear CLACK CLACK CLACK CLAKCLACKCLACK through the mic.

This is a great keyboard for the money. 4.5 stars from Amazon reviews, even after filtering out the incentivized reviews. $34 for green switches (of course not Cherry branded at this price point) and it has red backlighting. https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-KUMARA-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B016MAK38U

The Green switches are both a tactile and a clicky (loud) switch. You can both feel the tactile bump and hear the "click" that occurs when the activation point is hit. ... If you are used to lighter switches you may have trouble at first getting used to the feel of Green switches, as they are a stiff switch. Of course, I am not sure if this will hold true for this off brand. It may be quite easy to press, who knows.

There is also a cheaper non-backlit version, and a $50 RGB backlit version.

Here is an interesting offering for only $30.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N57WL39/ref=psdc_12879431_t2_B06ZY9YV1N

Blue switches, so it will be clicky (loud) and tactile. Blues are considered similar to Greens, just easier to press.


EagleTec also makes cheap mechanical keyboards worth a look. You might find an LED design from them that will go great with your build.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015MQH59A

u/Super206 · 4 pointsr/hoggit

It's a cheap(er) HOTAS, it's biggest upside is a lot of inputs, if you're looking for something that will guarantee to last a long time I wouldn't look at a recent Saitek/Madcatz as a first choice. IMO the throttle is a much nicer unit than the stick and worth hanging on to. The stick layout is okay, my only gripe is the shape of the hats, and unless you have large hands it's a stretch from the base resting position to the top switches, if that base was a half-inch or so higher it would be a lot better.

I have one, and I really like it, I've had it for since mid 2014 and I haven't experienced any failures. I guess I'm lucky, but you get what you pay for for things like this. In fairness, Hotasessesse's across the board have much higher failure rates than any other peripheral input device such as mice and simple sticks like a Logitech Attack-3/5. CH and TM products aren't flawless, but they are better built and more consistent, worth spending the money on if you have it.

However, with the changeover in the parent company (MC -> Logitech) I would keep an eye on them. If you need something right-the-f***-now without spending much, a Thrustmaster T1600M FCS kit just came out as TM's answer to a proper budget hotas, and the reviews are good so far. Just keep in mind that it's built to fit a low cost so don't expect a lot of metal.

u/foxual · 3 pointsr/MouseReview

That's a sweetspot pricepoint for LOTS of great mice. All have the latest and greatest sensors, just pick one you think would fit your hand and grip best (in no particular order):

u/dragoth13 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm looking for a keyboard to replace my beloved Zippy WK-730 that I'm using at work. It's going on three years old now and starting to feel a little mushy.

I like the size of it; it doesn't take up too much space on my desk. I use a slim wrist rest with it, so I'm not married to the depth of it (although I really like how thin it is, aesthetically, I guess it's actually a hindrance to function).

After doing some cursory research, it would appear I have two choices in the mechanical keyboard space: Cherry MX Clear/Brown or Topre switches.

I'm pretty much looking at the CM Storm TK with Cherry Brown switches or the Topre Type Heaven.

I like my Zippy, other than the mushiness, and I use a wired Apple board at home. Should I even be considering these two mechboards or should I be barking up a different tree?

Has anyone here moved from a nice scissor like the Zippy or Apple slim keyboards to a mechanical and absolutely loved it? Conversely, has anyone made the jump and regretted it?

u/link07 · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

I just got into this game recently, and have been really enjoying it. I've been looking into getting a HOTAS, and I think I've narrowed it down to two models, but I have concerns about both of them.

The X52 Pro seems quite nice, but I'm a bit concerned about the QA, I've heard a lot of them fail (especially recently with logitech), is there any truth to that?

The other one I've been looking at is the Thrustmaster T.16000M which seems to have really good build quality and an excellent throttle, but I'm a bit worried the joystick doesn't really have enough buttons for elite. Any advice on which way to go (or a different way entirely) would be appreciated!