You're going to have a lot of fun! When I started out I wanted to try out every component I could get my hands on and ended up spending "hundreds of dollars" (LOL: As if that's a lot of money compared to most other hobbies).

So it sounds like you've got everything you "need" so I'm going to tell you what you definitely don't need... But could have a lot of fun with:

• You definitely don't need a 5-pack of "frickin' LASERS" for $2.
  
• You definitely don't need a MQ-4 methane sensor for building a stink detector for $5.
  
• You definitely don't need a 6-axis accelerometer/gyro for $3.
  
• You definitely don't need a 2-pack of tiny Arduino Pro Micros (which can emulate a mouse/keyboard) for $15.
  
• You definitely don't need a 4-pack of small servos for $15.
  
• You definitely don't need a 300-pack assortment of superbright LEDs for $12.
  
• You definitely don't need a 10-pack of 5v buzzers that add beeps and boops to all your projects for $1.50.
  
• You definitely don't need a package of copper tape to make a capacitive touch-sensitive user interface for $8.
  
• You definitely don't need 4x brushless motors, 4x electronic speed controllers (ESCs), a flight controller, a transmitter & receiver, silicone wire, barrel connectors, LiPo batteries & charger, and loads of propellers to build your own quadcopter out of PVC.
  
  Have fun!
  
  Edit: I almost forgot one of my favorite toys: The 8x8 LED matrix! You definitely don't need a 10-pack of red 8x8 LED matrices for $10. Nope!

Okay, I'm going to try and keep it manageable.

If you live in an apartment, you need to tell the super if only because you risk them going into other places and reinfesting.

There are kits you can buy, though just be sure anything you buy also has a sprayer of some kind if it's mixed

If a kit doesn't have encasements you should order those on amazon.

That said, here are some steps:

Wash and machine dry everything you own, and put them in these or these. Don't be stingy on this, buy 2-3 of them. Make outfits for work and home and organize them bag by bag. Lets call this 25 dollars.

Do this with your linens, pillow cases, and pillows. If your bedsheets are not light colored and plain, then buy some light colored plain ones. White is good, a little off white is best as nymphs can appear white if they haven't eaten, eggs too. Wash your linens every 4 days or so.

Buy mattress encasements for your bed AND your box spring. Measure both to make sure you don't buy one that's too big, the snugger the fit the better. Do not go too cheap on this, look at the reviews. A good one will have not only a zipper but a folding flap to secure it. Lets call this 60 bucks. Once on, never remove the encasement without a PCO telling you to. Do not try to make your own, it never works out well. Important note, do NOT under any circumstance have any kind of bed skirt or blanket that's so large it touches the floor easily. You're going to want to make it so the bugs have to crawl up the legs so they die on the cimexa.

If you do not have an iron/steel bed frame, I recommend getting the cheapest one you can find.

Clean everything off the floor, make sure no furniture is touching any other furniture or the wall. If you can't do that, you need to lose some stuff. Believe me it's worth it.

Vacuum daily if you can, and immediately toss out whatever you vacuum up in whatever trash is outside. Do not keep it inside. I wouldn't recommend vacuuming less than every other day. Vacuum early in the morning if at all possible.

Buy interceptors. These babies are pricey unfortunately. but a 12 pack should be good for a bed and something else. That's about 40. Make sure whatever bed post you have will fit in them, they're not the widest.

Buy two cans of bedlam plus. Spray it along each joint and crevice in all the furniture after you've emptied it out. Do not use over the counter sprays, they're almost always things bed bugs are already resistant to.

Buy two bottles of Cimexa and a bellows. Apply the cimexa on the perimeter of every piece of furniture that is on the floor as well as along the wall of the room. Unscrew every outlet and switch cover and put it there as well. Don't go overboard, less is more. This will be about 40 total for the set. I recommend spraying the legs of your chairs. Make sure to cover your face while you're doing this. Cimexa will kill them if they crawl over it, however if it's clumped up in big piles they'll walk around it because they don't like it.

Do NOT switch where you sleep. They'll follow you and spread to other parts of where you live. You're live bait. It sucks, but having them come to where you're sleeping is the best way to kill them. You want them feeling safe and secure as they walk over the poisons and cimexa you've laid out.

You'll be living out of bags for a long long time, so get used to it. I recommend scheduling something you enjoy every week to keep your sanity and have something to look forward to.

Whatever you do, do NOT buy a bed bug bomb. It will scatter them and make them harder to clear.

Nothing goes on the bed unless it's sterile, and nothing leaves the bed without being washed and dried ASAP.

Oh boy. That's a blessing and a curse, I suppose - there is still action you can take to prevent a home infestation.

The best way to prevent bringing them home is heat. Immediately take pretty much any article of clothing you think might have come into contact with him (or any others), head on over to the nearest industrial laundromat, and toss your stuff into the largest dryer they have and let it run on high for a long time. Also, DON'T take your suitcase into your car with you. Put all of your clothes in plastic trash bags first, and tie them. Assume that your suitcase has been infiltrated, so placing it in your car could release them in there.


Periodically, once you get home, go do a thorough search of your bedroom. The first thing to look for are dark stains on your mattress. These are usually blood stains (since bedbugs are easily squished if you roll over). Also, check every crack & crevice on the mattress for small black objects like these, which are bedbug p00p. Also, keep an eye out for any shed skin remnants which'll look translucent like those.

If you do have any of those visible signs on your mattress, you'll need to call an exterminator. Seriously, it's pretty much impossible to deal with an infestation by yourself since they hide EVERYWHERE. Including in your walls.

Also, please inform your college's residential services department. They're liable for this sort of stuff.

If you'd like an additional safety measure, just to be safe, get some of this stuff and apply it to your bedframe at home. It's kinda like post exposure prophylaxis to ensure that none have the opportunity to set up shop once you get home should they still successfully hitchhike. It's a desiccating agent that isn't toxic to you.

Ya, np. I can tell you, I got all my materials from Amazon. The guide will mention copper conductive tape, most commonly associated with guitar repair. However, if you order this "guitar repair" tape it's marked up. I used Slug Tape and it works just fine for a lot less money.

In fact here's the rest of the mats:

Pre Back

Touchstone

Wall adapter -- though any should work fine I just didn't have spares and it's <$5

Soldering Iron -- I didn't have one

Guitar Picks if you lack enough -- I used about 6-8 popping the bezel

If you don't already have extended battery and cover

The only thing I didn't buy off Amazon were the magnets. I picked mine up from K&J Magnetics. Go for any of the disc type that are 1/32" thick. I think I got a pack of ten for a little over a dollar, and I believe each is rated for about 0.4lbs of force, more than enough.

It took me about 2 hours to finish the project, but read through the whole thing first, don't just wing it, and make sure you're comortable with popping the glass out of the bezel and soldering on your device. For what's it's worth this was the first time I've ever soldered, and it went better than expected. I practiced making little weld dolops for about 5 minutes before I trusted myself on the back of the device. Good luck!

Reylight Titanium Ti Lan Special Edition in either smooth or bead blasted. Picture Album

Beautiful clean battery tubes with no flat spots, knurling or machining. I custom ordered 150 of these and can be found nowhere else.

Nichia 219C 4000K high CRI emitter, with smooth beam profile

Benifits of the V2 are, slightly longer battery tube and are supposed to now accept a protected 14500, and brighter. V1 on the Left, V2 on the right

$59.00 + $2.77 shipping (within US). I can ship international, but would have to calculate the cheapest method. A free $6.00 trit for the switch for reddit/flashlight folks

This sale is posted on BLF with more information. PM me if interested.

Also in my Amazon store. Click on "these sellers" to get there. I have to fix this link with Amazon.

Thanks for looking

SO! I've done I guess 5 total months over a few trips with this gear, and I'm pretty happy with it all. Here's how I pack.

REI's stuff has served me well for a few months on the road at a time. In particular, their Polar Pod sleeping bag has been cozy in shorts and t-shirt to the 40s. I don't think they sell it anymore, but whatever replaced it should be fine. I sprung for the name-brand Thermarest ProLite, and it works great. Just wide enough, just long enough, and packs down well. I sleep in an ALPS Mountaineering Lynx 4 tent. It's big enough for two people and their gear, so if you're willing to double up with a buddy.

I pack the sleeping bag and a week's worth of clothes into (separate) Sea-To-Summit eVent compression dry bags (medium). They're absolutely bulletproof and I love them.

All of this (including the tent, in its original bag) packs down into the main compartment of a North Face Base Camp duffel bag (large) that gets cam-buckle strapped (two straps!) to the top of my V-Strom. The bag isn't properly waterproof, but I've ridden it through a day of steady rain that culminated in literally blinding rain, and finally forced us off the road. The bag only let a few drops of water in through the zipper. There's room to spare, so I also carry a hatchet, shock cord, bottle of whisky, fire starters, a ziplock of laundry pods, etc. etc. in the spaces between. Also an extra pair of shoes at the end, for going into town etc. Also flipflops for showers.

This leaves room in the Wolfman Expedition side bags for a Jetboil Sumo, the rest of the camp kitchen, about a week of food, and some assorted other stuff — like an REI Flexlite camp chair, which has been really invaluable. Rocks and logs are hard and offer no back support, and that matters a lot around day 3-5. Also chain lube and cleaner.

I have an older design of the Wolfman Rainier tank bag that carries all the stuff I might through various stops — the first aid kit (I put my own together), a Luci solar powered inflatable lamp (seriously, buy this), some no-shit 100 DEET Bug Spray (even works on Maritime Canada levels of bugs!), a bag of 80 disposable ear plugs (seriously cuts fatigue, and there's enough of them that you can use a new pair every day), wet wipes, sunscreen, ibuprofen, and a super cheap battery pack for the cell phone that I got from Target.

I keep thinking that I want to carry my Osprey Stratos 34 with 3 liters of water in it. With the exception of one day, when the heat index was 125F and constant hydration was essential, I keep being wrong about this. It's just too damn bulky and awkward. I keep stuffing it in the duffel. (Yes, with all the other stuff. It's a good bag.) Maybe get a camelbak or similar though, because I always miss the constant hydration (just not the back pain).

Here's a photo. And here's how it all looks on the bike.

This is all pretty heavy if you're going to be doing anything more intense than fire roads, but anything up to that and I've been fine. Just throttle up and keep your momentum going and it's fine. You can cut weight largely in the pans and the food, if you can stop every 2-3 days for food instead of once a week.

EDIT: Camp towel. I forget which brand I have, but this one should work okay. The medium is fine. Also I have a Petzl headlamp that lives in the Rainier bag.

Thanks for sharing your story. I need to hear stories like this one.

I think my first step is getting a "monitor" for them. You can make a homemade one with dry ice (carbon dioxide) and a few other cheap materials. If this "monitor" (which is more like a trap) catches some, I think that will be the evidence I can use to present to the management of my new apartment.

Since I'm pretty sure that monitor will find the evidence I fear, in the mean time I will purchase a duster and a whole bunch of Cimexa and treat every nook and cranny of every visible surface in side my apartment.

When I let my management know, and just how truly awful and shameful that conversation will be, I know that at least they have to choose which pest control company and method will be used to treat my unit. I am hoping they opt for heat treatment of some kind.

Ultimately, I'm hoping that by escalating it within the next month and the following treatment outlined, I can be over this in about 4-6 months.

But I don't know. I just hope it doesn't take my relationship from me...

>If I place the dust everywhere, should I try to refrain from vacuuming? Or just reapply after vacuuming?

I'd vacuum, then apply, then re-apply after any future vacuuming.

>Can you possibly link me to the pump/sprayer?

Here's 2 options, we used this one ourselves, but this one seems to be promoted by Amazon right now. Looking at that yellow one... eh, I'd personally recommend going with the first one. THe extra $6 is worth it for higher quality.

>How much is needed for a ~800 sq. Ft. Apartment?

Per their Amazon link, 2 ounces covers 100 ft^2, large bottles are 4 ounce, so you'd want 4 large bottles

Oh, and as a safety given the high chance other apartments are infested, you probably want this XFasten double sided tape, you will want to make squares around every power/cable/telephone/airvent/etc. outlet, and a large square above your bed, slightly larger than your bed. Yes, they are known to crawl along the ceiling then drop down onto beds.

Mosquitos are the worst! I really feel for you: I have tried everything I've ever heard of to keep them away, because bites swell up on me like crazy. I don't know if there is such a thing as being "allergic" to mosquito bites, but I am one of those individuals that reacts noticeably worse than most.

It's so bad that when my husband and I were on our honeymoon, we stayed on a tropical island and I got absolutely covered in bites including one on my eyelid!! When we went scuba diving, apparently the bites covering my legs looked even creepier underwater and fellow divers were asking me if I bumped into coral or had contracted some strange island disease.

The best I have come up with is to rub lavender essential oil on my body (literally slather it on exposed skin) at least it is the least objectionable of all the mosquito repellent "scents" and it's the most effective for keeping them off anytime I need to go outdoors for a dog walk/errand, anytime I'll be moving around but sharing mosquito airspace. Additionally, if I'm gonna be sitting out in their world, the Thermacell Mosquito Repellent device actually does work. I was given one as a gift, thought it was a gag; tried it for giggles, and: I bought refills and always bring that thing when I know I'll be hanging out in mosquito territory.

One last piece of advice: apply rubbing alcohol to heal your bites- instant relief!! Purell hand gel does the same thing: aaaaahhhhhh. Apply early and often and you'll ease the discomfort and swelling.

Edit: fixed link

Currently in the midst of dealing with a gnat problem. Here's what's worked for me so far:

1. Can't have fungus gnats if you don't grow your plants in soil (uprooted my English Ivy and am now growing the damned fool in water because gnats kept going back to it).
   
   
2. Mosquito bits. I honestly don't know the ratio of bits:water that should be used so please correct me if I'm wrong, but I soak about 4oz (this was probably overkill) of bits into a gallon of warm water for about an hour (or let it sit overnight in room temp water), and then water your plants with it like normal until your gnats are gone. I try to strain the bits from the water with some mesh because I've seen others have molding issues if they let the bits sit on top of the soil.
   
   
3. Catch the adult gnats with sticky traps before they can breed even more. I cut traps into 4ths or 8ths depending on the size of the plant and attach a disposable chopstick or skewer to stick it into the soil.
   
   
4. To prevent your other plants that currently don't have gnat issues from getting gnats, water from the bottom. It's advised to not let your plants soak in water for more than 30 min at a time. A moisture meter also helps with this. This also discourages gnats from coming back since the top layer of soil is dry.
   
   
5. Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a temporary solution for preventing adult gnats from penetrating the soil to lay larva, but once it gets wet, it's pretty much useless. Sometimes I sprinkle on DE between waterings once the soil is dry. Not a long term solution and also annoying.
   
   There are lots of other redditors on this subreddit, /r/IndoorGarden , and /r/plantclinic who have faced the same issues, so have a look at their posts too to see what works for them (I see hydrogen peroxide is a common solution). Best of luck!

If you have seen a couple, there's an infestation. It may not be bad, but if you're seeing a few roaches during the day, there are going to be many more coming out at night.

Cimexa is generally better than boric acid. It lasts longer, naturally dries itself out, and is less toxic to pets than boric acid. Spray it in the cracks of your walls, baseboards, and under large appliances.

Advion gel bait is highly cited around here to be a godsend in culling live nymphs and adults. Cockroaches are opportunistic eaters; it's better to place several small dots around common walkways (along baseboards & sources of water) than larger, but fewer dollops.

An IGR, like Gentrol, will help with long-term prevention. It prevents nymphs from reaching sexual maturity and can stop eggs from hatching. It doesn't do anything for adults though, so you'll need the Advion to knock those fuckers out.

The most important thing is to change your behaviors. Don't leave trash in the apartment overnight, dry out sinks/sources of water overnight, keep food sealed, etc...

This stuff is great -

https://www.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1503065033&sr=1-2&keywords=cimexa

Bed bugs can be managed without an exterminator, but you do need to do research. Cimexa is definitely vegan and extremely effective, you just have to be okay with a fine layer of dust on the floor for a few months. It doesn't kill the eggs, but when they hatch, they'll crawl over it to feed on you and then die.

Godspeed, OP, you can win this. I found a few two months ago and now they're all gone. Still dusting with Cimexa for a few more months, to keep them gone.

Can you clarify if you're looking for gear for your own tripping in the BWCA? Or for your work as a tow boat driver?
Either way, this will be a good start:

https://smile.amazon.com/Mosquito-Repellent-Protection-Fragrance-Approved/dp/B00TV2J5IG

This and a head net for mosquitoes. You can try Picaridin too. Head net is a MUST for portages.

If you're doing your own tripping, a carbon paddle is fantastic. As much as I wish I could like a beautifully bonded and carved wood paddle, after using a 13.75oz carbon paddle, 20oz is way too heavy. J-stroking with a carbon paddle is so easy and light. I have an older Barton Paddle (not made anymore AFAIK). The Wenonah Black Lite is reasonably priced, though I've never handled it.

I've always been fine with an old pair of running shoes for summer tripping, so I'm not much help there. If you want more suggestions, you should be more specific.

Get some Actinovate. If you want to save this plant then apply as a root drench and a foliar spray, then apply again in 12 hours and repeat every other day for a week or so. You will have to make a new actinovate solution every 24 hours because it is a live colony. If you decide to start over, then clean EVERYTHING with either a H202(hydrogen peroxide) solution or a bleach solution. After that I usually give everything a spray down with an actinovate solution (room, pots, equipment, EVERYTHING). Never had a single problem with PM/mold of any kind and I've let rh easily get 90%+.

Well, it is a hassle, sort of, but covering up also prevents skin issues from the sun. I allow some sun to get vitamin D but both of my parents have had several skin cancers and I am high risk.

If you work outdoors you can get acclimated to the weather if you are healthy, although I see people doing construction work and riding motorcycles wearing shorts. Nope, not me, clothes are protection. 90° weather is not that bad if you are used to it.

As for the bug zappers, they attract with light and can get moths, which are not a pest. They do make CO2 bug catchers which may attract mammal biting bugs (the theory is that is how they find you, through exhalations and also scents) such as [this monstrosity] (https://www.amazon.com/Mega-Catch-MCU-900-ULTRA-Mosquito-Trap/dp/B0051C0J7G/ref=cm_rdp_product) as well as [hand held repellers] (https://www.amazon.com/Thermacell-MR-LJ-Portable-Mosquito-Repeller-Black/dp/B01BGHU7R6/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501416022&sr=8-3-fkmr2&keywords=handheld+butane+insect+repellent#customerReviews) which I recently learned about.

There was a time when it seemed everybody had a bug zapper, years ago, but apparently they are no longer the thing to have.

I wanted one of these originally but decided against it. I don't find myself needing a lockring tool except with new instillation. I don't plan on mounting it on my bike because I have no bottle cage mounts on my bike, plus there is the worry of theft, or aiding to theft. The additional socket sizes and the box 15 were the main things I was after. After some careful consideration I opted for these two tools. I like the grip on the park tools 15 much better.

The trixie is a pretty tool, and I love Pedro's selections of lubricants (wink) but I prefer to have two tools that cover almost every section of my bike.

Definitely agree. I've traveled everywhere with this, including staying in remote areas of the Amazon and it's been a great lifesaver.

I'm on Long Island and also have had a fungal issue this year. I used some fancy insect and fungal thing. Blue and black container that I got at the home depot in coram. Stuff works pretty well but needs to be applied pretty liberally.

https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Garden-Friendly-Fungicide/dp/B014174BZM
This is a great fungicide. Only reason I used the other stuff was cause I had some other insect issues also.

I have no advice or help for you. I'm so sorry your family is going through this!

We recently bought one of https://www.amazon.com/ThermaCell-Mosquito-Repellent-Outdoor-Repeller/dp/B01BGHU7R6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464831898&sr=8-1&keywords=thermacell for mosquitoes...haven't tried it out yet but I've heard that they work really well. Good luck!

Get insect growth regulator. It renders them infertile and stops the cycle. Roach bait/gels don’t address the babies that pop up every 30 days and the cycle just repeats itself. Roaches are tenacious jerks that can survive on just a smidge of grease and a drop of water. You could be clean but if your neighbors aren’t and there’s a small gap between the wall and floor/cabinet or in my case a gap where the water pipe comes in through the wall they will make there way through the gap.

I recommend the following product because there’s no messy spray and it’s easy to install, get some bait gel like the one the other commenter mentioned and put a few dabs onto this device to ensure that the roaches come near the station.

Please note that this device does not kill roaches and should used in conjunction with bait.

Gentrol Point Source IGR ZOE1007 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049EKEEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZMBuDbB09DEC0

Ant traps where some liquid or goo attracts them (ants have a strong sense of smell) and they get stuck is a thing. (See here) Congrats, you just created your own DIY ant trap! And simultaneously created a protein rich honey!

I also have this problem with my insurance. I’ve had good work-around luck with DIY azelaic acid (https://www.amazon.com/Ecological-Formulas-Melazepam-Cream/dp/B001WUEJ4U), sulfur masks (https://www.amazon.com/SULFUR-OINTMENT-POWERFUL-ACNE-MDICATION/dp/B003Y58F14/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1522201544&sr=8-3&keywords=Sulfur+ointment), and the vet version of soolantra (https://www.amazon.com/Duramectin-Ivermectin-Paste-1-87-Horses/dp/B003T4DMPO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522202843&sr=8-2&keywords=ivermectin+for+horses ). This version is sticky like Vaseline. But it’s cheap so you won’t lose much if you don’t like it. After I determined it worked for me I switched to this one which isn’t so sticky (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FVUH6C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

I use a very gentle cleanser (I like albolene and vanicream) and moisturizer, plus sunscreen during the day.

Just a warning if you try the ivermectin - my skin got a lot worse than I have ever seen it around days 4-10. But then it improved tremendously. I think this is why dermatologists use doxycycline with it in the beginning to reduce the inflammatory reaction to the mite die-off. But stick with it and it’s so so worth it.

Finally, here is my routine:

PM:
Cleanse (albolene)
Sulfur mask (10 Min every other night)-then rinse with lukewarm water
Azelaic acid (3 times a week)
Moisturize
Ivermectin (every night right at bedtime)
Vaseline (if I’m really dry)

AM
Cleanse (vanicream)
Moisturize
Sunscreen

I use Demon WP, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003JUF6IE/ref=sxts_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505268785&sr=2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65, keeps roaches and all kinds of stuff under control. Bought a house and had an infestation in the laundry room(outdoor room attached to back porch). Knocked it out and has kept them gone. I see one every few months or so, which lets me know I need to retreat the area but never baby/juveniles which is good news. Just get a sprayer, and mix with water. Spray any crevice the size of a dime or bigger....I spray around the base of my house's walls inside and out and then around windows and doorways. Then under fridge, dishwasher, back of cabinets, etc....indoors it lasts indefinitely and I believe outdoors it has A 3month lifespan. Not sure about that, like I said whenever I see one I re-treat that area and am usually good to go!

Ask your derm for Soolantra samples, he gave me enough for a month to try (didn't make much difference). But it's a great way to trial it. It's pretty expensive, even with my great insurance it's $50/mo which I think is a lot, esp as my specific condition isn't that bad.

To note, this ingredient is also in a horse cream here . My derm took a look at it and said it wouldn't be harmful to try--he doesn't like when good treatments are too expensive. That it's for horses may be a turnoff to some, but it's just the chemical to treat the same thing (mites). Just FYI.

yes! i use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Summit-116-12-Quick-Mosquito-8-Ounce/dp/B0001LE1VC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=mosquito+bits&qid=1556469075&s=gateway&sr=8-4

​

you can let them float in a little bowl of water near your plants to attract and kill them but i don't like the look of that so i just pour some into my watering can and allow them to sit on the top of the wet soil in my plants. i did it twice recently (during my routine watering) and now i am gnat free again! and thank you so much!! :)

I would use Terro which is borax in a sugar solution.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYIS7YW/ref=asc_df_B00MYIS7YW5371011

It really is the best thing, though it takes a while. It's also basically nontoxic for humans and animals, so it's a great fit for you it sounds like.

BTW you can get this cheaper locally than on amazon, most likely.

I use Plant Therapy. Most of the organic sprays you can use are soy oil based with whatever special ingredients they believe make theirs stand out. A few different options available, many go by the names "Green Clean" or variations of it. Amazon Link to what I've personally purchased. It is pricey, and you can see what other brands are available through view similar.

It should be noted that these suffocate the the mites, so you have to make sure the plant is "drenched" according to instructions. Just make sure to follow the directions when applying and you should be good.

Summit 116-12 Quick Kill Mosquito Bits, 8-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LE1VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LvYOBbXR4S9M1

That’s what I use and a little goes a long way. So worth the $$. Another thing that helps is I always have a ceiling fan on for air flow. Seems to keep the gnats away too. My house is a jungle and I rarely ever see a gnat! Best of luck :)

1. Notify maintenance anyway - costs you nothing.
   
2. Use Ant Bait in the future, not spray.
   

• You want them to carry the bait home with them to share it with others.
  
  This:
  https://www.amazon.com/Combat-Source-Kill-Killing-Grams/dp/B000BQT5IG
  
  Or this:
  https://www.amazon.com/Terro-Stations-Contents-2-2fl-oz-0-36fl-oz/dp/B00MYIS7YW
  
  Not this:
  https://www.amazon.com/Raid-11717-Ant-Roach-Killer/dp/B000BOCDXW
  
  
  Just remember you're paying what, like $10,000 for that dorm that you will only sleep in for 9 months or so, right?
  
  Pest control should be included in the housing agreement. You already paid for maintenance to take care of this - make them earn it.
  
  

hm, i haven't heard the term palmetto bugs before. I think the ones i see are american/german. They all look so similar, and usually are pretty big.

dumb question, but do you think there are any negatives to IGR, if I do in fact have the palmetto bugs? Is there such a thing as overkill? Also, do you have any experience with these types of IGR? Seems easier than spraying everywhere. Thanks for your tips!
https://www.amazon.com/Gentrol-Point-Source-IGR-ZOE1007/dp/B0049EKEEK/ref=pd_bxgy_328_3/133-9187373-1194855?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0049EKEEK&pd_rd_r=b4efdfa4-84c4-4265-bb95-d9720e8cb5aa&pd_rd_w=DqA1v&pd_rd_wg=y6dno&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ME4CWSXK7MDE7H6C5TPT&psc=1&refRID=ME4CWSXK7MDE7H6C5TPT

Might want to take more of a tool set? The Crank brothers multitool is the best compromise between tools you will likely need and weight in my opinion. Being able to tighten a loose spoke or fix the chain if it breaks is pretty damn useful. I nailed a curb pretty good on a tour and had to tighten a couple spokes, didn't have a spoke tool and was screwed for a while.

I recommend getting Actinovate, I had some powdery mildew, and it's basically stopped with one application. Theres a smaller version, but might as well have a good amount for any future grows as well.

Thermocell was recommended to me by a Southerner and it works pretty well. Can enjoy my back yard again.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01BGHU7R6

Just to add, in addition to the chain tool, make sure you bring compatible link replacements.

I have one of these which should cover pretty much any allen you would need and a chain tool in a small compact package. I got mine from a local bike shop and it has held up pretty well for my past couple bikes. I have a recumbent currently, which takes 2 1/2 bikes worth of chains... you can imagine how much potential trouble there is there!

I had a HUGE problem with fungus gnats - same with a friend who has 40+ plants (she's nuts), these things are life savers and will take care of the problem in a few weeks. In terms of mites, those are a bit tougher to get rid of because you have to treat the soil, but you can use this stuff for them! Hope this helps :)

If you're concerned about roaches then I suggest treating your home with Advion Cockroach Gel Bait. This will kill them.

Also, use an IGR (insect growth regulator). You will spray (or place disks) around your home and the product will last for a few months. The chemicals will disrupt their ability to breed by rendering them sterile.

I've used both Martin's IGR and Gentrol Disks successfully. The disks are more expensive and I prefer the concentrated liquid but either should work.



I suggest using both products at the same time. If you choose another IGR just double check that the chemical is intended for the pest you're treating - some only treat fleas, some treat lots of pests, etc.

I use this stuff to great success

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0742MW5G6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since I haven't seen it here yet, a good way to kill any roaches and prevent reinfestation is by using Cimexa dust. Buy a duster and some Cimexa and lightly dust the interior of the ps4 through the air vents. Bonus points if you open it up and dust the inside too. Watch some videos on dusting appliances so you get a feel for how little you need to use to be effective. This Cimexa is not a poison but rather it dehydrates the insects and doesn't harm electronics. Best part is you can use it in other areas of infestation as well.

If you decide to go this route make sure you use a dust mask when applying and read the label on the Cimexa bottle before you use it. It's not poison but I'm you still don't want to put it somewhere where someone could breathe it in so make sure you know how to apply it before you so.

/u/Dodifer this. Buy some Mosquito Dunk Bits, take about 1/8 of a teaspoon and stir it into 1/2 cup of water really well, spread this on the surface of the surface of the soil of any plants you have indoors near the gnat problem. You can spray it on or brush it on, doesn't really matter as long as you get semi-even surface coverage. Reapply 10 days later if you still need to.

The dunk bits are just dried corn bits coated in BTI, a bacteria that goes after gnat and mosquito larva. There's a lot of safety warnings on the bottle but from the articles I've read from an WHO article BTI should be safe to use in drinking water, so it should be safe to use on indoor plants and vegetables.

Your landlord may not have been aware of an infestation. They could have been deep within the box spring, he could have been immune to their bites.

Have you CONFIRMED that these bugs are bedbugs, by visual comparison?

Follow this protocol:

• Use a minimal frame that has little to no spots for bedbugs to hide in, such as a lightweight metal frame
  
  
• Purchase interceptors to put under the legs of the bed frame
  
  
• Move the bed away from the wall, and away from other furniture (isolate it)
  
  
• Wrap both box spring and top mattress in bedbug-proof mattress encasements - the zippered kind that SEAL/ZIP CLOSE.
  
  
• Purchase CimeXa dust and a handheld bellows for application of the CimeXa. Dust this LIGHTLY (do NOT make piles of it) around the baseboards of the rooms in the house, in/on window sills, on the bed frame, inside of dressers/desks/bookshelves, around the bed itself, on the mattress and box spring (before you put on the encasements), and behind/inside of electrical outlets/faceplates. This will dry your skin out so be careful not to touch it a lot, or breathe it in - use gloves/a mask when applying. Your goal is to "puff" it where you're applying it and let it settle in a fine layer. If you vacuum after application, you will need to reapply it
  
  
• You can use Diatomaceous earth too, but CimeXa is much more effective, it lasts much longer, and it's safer to use as DE is harmful if it is breathed in.
  
  
• Wash all clothing and linens on HOT and dry on HIGH HEAT for at least 60 minutes. Store in AIRTIGHT plastic containers or plastic bags that SEAL to prevent hitchhikers and re-infestation. Store away from the bedroom if possible.
  
  
• Look into buying Nuvan ProStrips for items that cannot be laundered - including books, records, shoes, sensitive clothing, etc.
  
  
• All other items that you do not readily need can be stored in AIRTIGHT plastic containers, preferably in a garage or away from the possible infested areas. Adult bedbugs can survive for almost a year without food, so "starving" them is not a reliable method of eradication on its own.
  
  
• Treat the WHOLE HOUSE - NOT just your bedroom, as bedbugs will absolutely move from room to room. Couches and chairs can be treated with CimeXa too.
  
  
• Have diligence and patience - worst case scenario, contact an exterminator, but you can eradicate the bedbugs (if this is what you're dealing with for sure) through DIY methods as long as you are thorough.
  
  

This product is safe to use up to the day of harvest and will definitely take care of aphids and powder mold https://www.amazon.com/Lost-Coast-Plant-Therapy-Insecticide/dp/B075QY4RP5/ref=asc_df_B075QY4RP5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312149930530&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1294828548758698334&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032390&hvtargid=pla-569785065480&psc=1

I used to have ant problems, and the Home Depot traps didn't work. They would lure and kill a bunch of ants, but I'd still see a ton a day later.

Finally, I used this: https://www.amazon.com/Argentine-Carpenter-Cornfield-Harvester-Pavement/dp/B00TXFE4RI/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=ant+killer&qid=1559315714&s=gateway&sr=8-12

You have to figure out where the ants are coming from and lay some gel down there. However, it is really good at getting rid of them for good. Occasionally a few would come back after like six months, but a quick re-application would sort them out right quick.

Do all those things you plan to do, also consult the exterminators about what further steps you can take. Don't forget to use intercepting devices on each foot of your bed, with the bed pulled away from the wall so there's no alternate access. The traps can be as simple as cups with talcum powder (which makes their feet slip), or little glue traps.

Let me emphasize that the silica gel I referenced above is cheap, available (on Amazon as Cimexa), and effective as treatment as well as prevention, possibly for a decade, if applied properly.

The important thing is to stay sane. Be proactive, do all the things you're supposed to, and then trust that they're working. Don't let paranoia turn every little itch into a panic. Scorch the earth but stay cool.

From what I've heard, springtails aren't necessarily terrible for your plants, I'd just be concerned if they were broad or russet mites (or spider mites, of course, but I don't think thats what they look like). Thanks for the tip on the dish soap and HP, I'll have to give that shot. I've used Organic Laboratories 3-in-1 spray a couple of times all over my plants and plant pots, but to be honest, I think they just hide in the soil and come out whenever I water it.

​

Spray that I used: Organocide

• [Bifenthrin]
  (http://www.amazon.com/Compare-N-Save-Concentrate-Outdoor-Control-32-Ounce/dp/B00ARKSABO
  ). Main ingredient in many of those bayer garden pesticides. Short lived so as long as you are not too far into flower shouldn't cause any issues. This is your not-fuckin-around option.
  
  
• IG regulator. This will prevent the larvae from fully developing. Takes a while to fully work since the adults need to die naturally which takes 1-2 weeks, but is ultimately effective and mild of the plant.
  
  
• Bacillus thuringiensis Israeliensis. Bacteria that attacks and eats the larvae. Works well and is considered "organic," but takes a few weeks for complete control. Use dechlorinated water for best results.

They look like German roaches. You can get Gentrol which is a hormone regulator for them. It’s safe in areas in which people inhabit and food stuff is kept. There may be a living population in another unit or in the walls of the building. These work and keep them from reproducing. I have used this treatment and worked in the industry where I was introduced to the product. There is also gel bait if you are seeing a lot of them. Hope this helps.

This is the stuff you need. I'd also supplement it with DemonWP. You can use this stuff in a garden sprayer to treat the perimeter of your home.

This 1-2 punch is your best shot against the roaches.

I have this one, that comes in a multi-purpose tool set. I really like it, have used it four or five times and it works great. I has lots of leverage because the tool serves as a handle.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S6HZCC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a fungus gnat issue too. I’ve been using sticky stakes to catch them but I’ve noticed it doesn’t actually solve the problem in the soil. A lot of people have been recommending mosquito bits to me so I’ll be trying these out. Good luck!

What you are dealing with is called "Damping off". Its a type fungus.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damping_off
You can try to save them but your chances are slim. You can spray with garlic, or put cinnamin on the top of the soil. After trying the home remedies i ended up buying this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026KSLG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But what helped me the most was keeping the top of the soil dry, not over watering, let things dry out as much as possible before watering again. The fungus is in the air, so the only way around this is to work with it.

Wooo you are amazing for doing this :D My choice Reylight Ti Lan Special Edition.

Sorry. I have a new seedling that has just come up so I will take some photo's over the next couple of days to show what I mean.

In the meantime: I'm in London, UK; they are inside in a pot by my east-facing window; 1 sprouted just over a week ago and then shrivelled over a couple of days, another has just sprouted; this is the soil, which I'm assuming isn't great, but I'm on a tight budget. I appreciate any help.

I'm very new to this also.

Just picked this up, haven't used it yet but feels well made and doesn't take much room in my saddle bag Crank Brothers F-15

The other I was considering Crank Brothers Multi 17

Also highly recommend picking up spare tubes/tire levers.

That's an awesome setup. Just a suggestion for something simpler, though maybe not as effective, is using copper tape. https://www.amazon.com/Corrys-Slug-Snail-Copper-Barrier/dp/B000QD3BPW

Could at least be a helpful backup for when the battery dies.

All are planted in 5gal buckets using 6in net pots. Using this airpump (one pump per two buckets) and these airstones.

The only plant with roots coming out of the bottom of the net pod is the Sweet n Sour.

Test PH at 6.5 after adding in all the nutrients into each reservoir individually, holding approximately 4 gallons of water, which is the following:

• 4ml FloraGrow
  
• 4ml FloraBloom
  
• 4ml FloraMicro
  
• 3ml Southern Ag Fungicide (Hydroguard replacement) Edit: after more research, it seems I should have only used .5ml per 4 gallon reservoir
  
• 6ml CalMag
  
  I try to keep the water between 67F and 73F with frozen water bottles, changing them out every 8 hours. The current lights I am using are two KingBrite 240w 3500k QB at 50% dimmness currently running 24/7 about 2 feet above buckets.
  
  If you need anymore information, please ask!

I personally use this natural triple pesticide/fungicide/miticide to do most of the heavy lifting which only requires me to do some manual bug squashing for those especially tough pests. While we don't have to deal with frosts or herbivores, bugs and heatwaves are the main concern. Just be sure to look under your leaves often so they don't establish a colony which will be much harder to eradicate. As for time to plant I haven't a clue, a week or two ago I filled a 10 gallon fabric pot with potting soil and threw dozens of different species if seeds in there all to germinate together, as they have been popping up I gently pluck then out and put them in separate containers.

I've had good luck with these:
http://smile.amazon.com/Repellent-Repeller-Woodpeckers-Deterrent-Scarecrows/dp/B00UNAVW1I/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1452551530&sr=8-9

Wow, well that is really odd. Maybe try hanging something like this up there. https://www.amazon.com/Bird-Repellent-Disks-Woodpeckers-Reflective/dp/B00UNAVW1I

I know you're looking for more gentle solutions, but if you ever have to pull out the big guns (I had no choice), I've had success with sprinkling mosquito dunks on the soil surface.

You can get Soolantra‘ s active ingredient (Ivermectin) over the counter.

Horse paste is usually 1.9% vs Soolantra which is 1%

Duramectin Ivermectin Paste 1.87% for Horses, 0.21 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003T4DMPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MIh3Db057XMGF

Good discussion on one vs the other:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Rosacea/comments/alouse/soolantra_vs_the_horse_paste/

Just wondering if anyone else has had any success getting rid of these things? I'm just starting my second grow in my basement (stays colder in summer months) - during my first grow in my upstairs closet (warmer in the winter) I had a few of these but I just kept my soil slightly dryer in between waterings and it took care of the issue. Now in my tent in my basement they are basically swarming my new clones. I have used these as pictured above as well as this. I also have a glass of wine in there with a few drops of dish soap in it. All of these are working well and producing many dead gnats but they appear to be multiplying faster than I can take them out.

Thank you so much for the giveaways!


Reylight Ti Lan Special Edition. Smooth Battery Tube version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767NFCGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8TEhAbYH61N8A

I've tried rubber snakes. They were not effective. Something reflective and moving seems to work better. They make reflective ribbon you can hang, and also little mirrors to hang around like christmas ornaments. You can also get a decoy hawk.

Cimexa is cheap and works wonderfully in my experience. https://www.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-Y2ltZXhh-ac_d_rm&keywords=cimexa&pd_rd_i=B0085HRWI8&pd_rd_r=c89aaaf1-719b-4de0-93ca-9bf321243418&pd_rd_w=eEVP3&pd_rd_wg=3e1lb&pf_rd_p=ed481207-4bea-4e19-bbad-73ed40fdc292&pf_rd_r=PT9FPWKGF1QAFMG0NRW5&psc=1&qid=1572508437

Just gotta say, as a gastropod fan I appreciate you not wanting to hurt the slugs. Most people don't give a crap and it makes me sad.


That said I've heard that they don't like crawling over copper, so maybe you could try encircling the garden with copper tape? edit - Like this

Try Actinovate before resorting to the chemical stuff. It's supposedly an organic fungicide because it's a bacteria. It works great on powdery mildew.

I've also heard baking soda and water works. Especially if you catch it early.

Trifecta Crop control. It's a fucking miracle AND it can be used during flowering.

Hey, so I accidentally bought this brand.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085HRWI8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

92.1% silica gel and 7.9 %

I sprayed my bedroom two days ago, and besides going in for a minute or two to grab something I haven't gone back. So what should I do? Should I vacuum the floor?

How effective do you think it'll be?

Two links for you:

Invict Gold. Has like four attractants in it that makes the bugs love the stuff. As soon as I put a dot of it down and in several places the roaches came out to eat up. I had to clean periodically because I had dead roaches everywhere.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049I6CT2/ref=oh_o03_s00_i00_details

Gentrol. Growth Regulator, just put it in the room and walk away. Lasts up to 3 months and if you still have any live roaches around with crinkled wings you know the Gentrol is working (crinkled wings = unable to reproduce)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049EKEEK/ref=oh_o04_s00_i00_details

The items are pricey compared to going to the story and getting the cheap bait, but this stuff has worked wonders for me.

I concur with this suggestion... welded wire panels are fairly inexpensive and are rigid so they should suit your needs nicely.

I would also recommend some mylar ribbon between the roof and fence to keep birds of prey from swooping in.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LH28WK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_do6WAbC8P7V5Y

I can say from a couple years of experience now that Advion ant gel does amazing work

Well placed yellow sticky traps (horizontal near the soil surface and edge of plant pot) are good to quickly reduce the adult fungus gnats.

Mosquito dunks can be mixed into the water to inoculate the soil with beneficial bacteria that kills the larvae.

Also use an IGR if possible here's what I use with a lot of success https://www.amazon.com/Gentrol-Point-Source-IGR-ZOE1007/dp/B0049EKEEK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=57600465498&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzunmBRDsARIsAGrt4mueCckbC88nTMwGNk5ntSjCyWgu-waQ8KyrSzfiVwEPFqxTWlS66QwaAvvBEALw_wcB&hvadid=274731156904&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1028087&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=231306937934641446&hvtargid=kwd-298157712944&hydadcr=4310_9618126&keywords=gentrol+point+source+igr&qid=1557882279&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Or better yet, Cimexa. Amazon link here.

One time there was this very tiny white thing crawling on one of the leaves. I did use
Organic Laboratories 100-021 Lab QT Organocide 3-in-1 Garden Spray

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008SV2D9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UNA3CbE7KAJQV

Terro ant baits. I've never seen anything devastate a population of living things like Terro ant baits.

This is a roach control device. It's releases a growth hormone regulator that's supposed to prevent roaches from reproducing. It's the same one as this listing on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Gentrol-Point-Source-IGR-ZOE1007/dp/B0049EKEEK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=IGR+Insect+Growth+Regulator+Discs&qid=1569973226&s=gateway&sr=8-4

I have been using this stuff the past two years and its worth its weight in gold. Its like liquid crack for ants, you put it down and within two minutes there will be hundreds of ants around it eating and then taking it back to the hive to feed them. Cant recommend it enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Argentine-Carpenter-Cornfield-Harvester-Pavement/dp/B00TXFE4RI/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=ant+killer&qid=1557431912&s=gateway&sr=8-11

There is a better product than DE

Also bug interceptors

I buy potting soil off amazon, I've seen some that are completely dehydrated and you need to rehydrate them before using, like this

I'd like to let you know first that when you're replying to comments, you're actually posting it as a parent comment. :)

Second, there are deterrents for birds such as reflective tape like this: and also sonic deterrents that emit a noise that birds don't enjoy at all, but might also keep the cat away depending on his hearing. You could also get a decoy owl, which will keep most birds off your property.

Cheers mate

https://www.amazon.com/Reylight-Ti-Lan-Special-Battery/dp/B0767NFCGC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511891800&sr=8-4&keywords=ReyLight

Not sure what you do in your house for pest control, but I recommend putting down some Demon WP once or twice a year.

Sweet giveaway - https://www.amazon.com/Reylight-Ti-Lan-Special-Battery/dp/B0767NFCGC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511891800&sr=8-4&keywords=ReyLight

These are the other product I was telling you about. These pucks stop the current roaches from reproducing. They're not necessary but they'll help wipe them out a little quicker.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049EKEEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_sOpsDbV1RSQWD

Organic All Purpose Potting... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008JCW25W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I like this one!

Spray some Demon WP around your baseboards and they won’t be back for years. I’ve used this stuff in multiple apartments and it’s always worked fantastically. https://www.amazon.com/Demon-WP-Envelope-Containing-packets/dp/B003JUF6IE

They are probably coming in through the threshold between the bathroom and hallway, they usually come from there because it’s almost never properly sealed. Ants are pretty easy in most cases outside of pharaoh ants. Just gets some advion ant gel from amazon. That’s what we use, I promise it works.

4 Tubes Dupont Advion Ant Gel Bait w/ 1 Plunger (30 grams per Tube) ~~ Kill Argentine , Big Headed , Carpenter , Cornfield , Crazy , Field , Ghost , Harvester , Honey , Little Black , Odorous House , Pavement , Pharaoh , Pyramid , Red Imported Fire Ant , Rover , Thief and White Footed ~ Better then Maxforce Intice & Terro Best Pest Control for Ants On the Market !! 6666305 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TXFE4RI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VdzqDbFKDZ1YX

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767NFCGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8TEhAbYH61N8A

Thank you

Thank you for this giveaway...
Reylight Ti Lan
https://www.amazon.com/Reylight-Ti-Lan-Special-Battery/dp/B0767NFCGC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511891800&sr=8-4&keywords=ReyLight

I used a product called Mosquito Dunks to get rid of my gnat problem. Worked like a charm.

Sounds like fungus gnats. You can use that dish soap method, but when I had delicate venus fly traps I used mosquito bits which you basically sprinkle in before the next watering.

you probably wouldn't need too deep an ipm. neem oil or azidirachtin spray while in veg every week would be ok. add some crushed up mosquito dunks to your medium to tale care of any soil gnats (you want the stuff with BTi in it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LE1VC/ )

that would be fine for most indoor grows imo. i have plants in and outdoors and my ipm is a little more rounded, but i only use stuff when i need it, except for caterpillars outside. that's a weekly spray.

In used to have the same issue and bought bird tape from Amazon, haven't had problems since then.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LH28WK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NQW5xbJ98CEZQ

this stuff worked well for me the last time i was trying to deal with the fuzz

Look into this stuff as well, CimeXa Insecticide Dust, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085HRWI8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

They lay eggs in the soil, so they multiply rapidly. I used mosquito dunks when watering the plants, and then when the top layer of soil is dry after a couple of days, I sprayed diatomaceous earth - food grade on the soil liberally. The yellow stickies all around the plants caught the ones which somehow miraculously managed to survive. It took about three weeks to not see any flying around.

You'll thank me later. It'll take more than one treatment depending on how serious your infestation is, but I have been using this with great results.


pump sprayer

demon wp

Copper banding on the stem might fix it - or the cheaper option of Garlic Tea.

​

Don't panic - Botrytis have far smaller mouths and don't leave big chunks missing. ;-)

I got rid of them with this. Two bottles over the course of six months. Never had a problem since, and after getting them that one time, i continue to check.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085HRWI8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8

This stuff is a lot more effective. Im too drunk to provide a source but just look up cimexa

If you have plants that retain water or things you can't dump on a regular basis: mosquito bits

To add to what airhighfive is saying, you should use Cimexa. This sub is always recommending it. This is a study about the effectiveness of Cimexa over DE. Here is an amazon link to but the stuff.

I put about a tablespoon of mosquito bits on top and mixed it in. BT is good for fungus gnats and my wifes figs were infected so peroxide isn't a great choice. On top of which I mixed this soil and let it set for 3 weeks just to get the right things going.

I used this stuff. Didn't work worth a damn for me.

You'd think the frequency you're getting bit, that you'd see one somewhere by now.. kinda sounds like there's a few fleas still lingering. My brother had a flea issue and bought this trap and said it started catching fleas within 15 min. Can't hurt to get one or 2 to use in the rooms you're noticing bites in.

He was also dealing with a bedbug problem at the time and used this CimeXa Powder and it helped a ton also. He used a 1" angled paint brush to apply the powder to the cracks and crevices and a powder duster to dust larger areas.

Get some Demon

I spray it two to three times a year. Nothing stops them 100% though.

cheap diy indicators and treatments;
simple double sided tape along bed legs.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002O16SHW
use this powder as directed
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085HRWI8

it may be fleas not bb.
fleas leave fewer indicators behind.
for fleas wash everything around bed with borax.
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B000R4LONQ
including floors walls in:outsides of furniture.

Reylight TiLan SE.
https://www.amazon.com/Reylight-Ti-Lan-Special-Battery/dp/B0767NFCGC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511891800&sr=8-4&keywords=ReyLight

Try this stuff

https://www.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8

this is the one i bought and it worked wonders

Trifecta Crop Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742MW5G6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_gVcFDbHNZ78FY

fuckmites

As of now my plan was to wash and dry on high heat all the bedding, buy mattress and box-spring bed bug covers, and get some CimeXa and put it all over the room. Especially in the doorway so they don't infest other areas of the house (is this being naive? will they just go through the walls?)

How does this sound to you guys?

If you have the big water bugs that fly (wood roaches) then they just naturally make their way inside.

Now if you have the small roaches (German roaches) then that is a sign of an infestation.

Order some of this from amazon and spray it around the outside perimeter of your house where walls meet ground to kill all wood roaches that enter.

If you have an German roaches then spray a very light amount around the inside of your house where walls meet the floor and in unused places like under the sink and behind furniture.

Also if you have ants it’ll take care of them too.

One package has lasted almost 2 years here and I spray about 1-2 times a month outside.

https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Liquid-Copper-Fungicide/dp/B0052NL4FK

Edit: oops... I meant this https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Garden-Friendly-Fungicide/dp/B014174BZM

Or maybe invest in one of these.

Grab some of THIS
A little goes a LONG way.

This stuff got rid of my carpenter ants: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TXFE4RI

D'oh, it is. Time to call an exterminator or buy some CimeXa.

Bacillus thuringiensis

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001LE1VC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I purchased and only used a pinch of

I use these mosquito bits, which also control fungus gnat larvae when watered into the soil.

Edit: /u/juanitospeppers posted it first, but I'll leave this, as that link didn't work for me.

I’ve never had luck with store bought stuff. Advion is the only thing that has worked for me.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TXFE4RI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_1XVzCbA499SX8

A little 1” strip of gel here and there is all you need.

I've used demon wp to spray the baseboards of my house and around the front and back porches. It's really effective stuff. For a few days afterword you'll find an increase in dead roaches (especially if you spray outside) then there won't be any for over a month and a half. It says it last 3 months but we just have so many bugs here that isn't true.

there is a lot of mis information out there. https://www.epa.gov/bedbugs is pretty good. i wasted a lot of money and effort. people say DE is good but you want 100% silica powder like this and these strips. the powder put all over. then put all your shit in plastic tubs with one of those strips. as you put stuff into tubs clean it with rubbing alcohol. its a metric fuck ton of work, but it can be done.

Yes. Before you attack the problem you have to get certain ID on the pest first. Buy some of these to catch the flyers to examine under a loupe. Compare it to images on google and get the necessary pesticides. If you want to skip all that (not recommended) then go ahead because I do. If you have seen them consistently, chances are they probably laid eggs in your substrate. Attack the cycle not the individual. Most efficient way personally for me was a combination of a biological pesticide + mechanical. This + This + the yellow sticky traps = gnat free within 12 hours (atleast for me). The brown shit works like Diat. Earth by cutting up the bodies of the insect (but its in granules instead of powder and won't harm you if you touch it), the mosquito dunks is a fungus that attacks mosquito and gnat larva. The dunks are SUPPOSED to be a mechanical + bio method but it doesn't cut up the baby ones for me, only the adults so I have to substitute with the brown granules. There is an organic form of the brown granules that do the cutting but it was more expensive so I didn't buy it.

Edit: Mix the dunks and granules at a 1:1 ratio and pepper it over your topsoil.

When I ordered orchid pots from a store online they gave me some of this stuff for free: Summit 116-12 Quick Kill Mosquito Bits, 8-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LE1VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jl3JDb43N6AAF

I had a terrible fungus gnat problem (caused by using soil I let sit outside) The way I got rid of 99% of them was by using yellow sticky traps, mosquito bits, and DE on the top soil.


I agree with not using H202

My house is built on ancient ant breeding grounds. I've been fighting them for years. Here's what worked. Advion Ant Gel. Find where they're coming from and put some gel on the path. They eat it and take it back to the nest. It's the only thing that has worked for me. But boy has it worked.

This to spray the barriers and outside:

Syngenta - H-AP-2319890 - Demon WP Insecicide, 1 Envelope (9.5g) containing 4 (0.33 ounces) packets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JUF6IE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mto3Bb6EV2T1V

This to bait and control population:

Vendetta Plus Cockroach Gel Bait (4tubes) Roach Bait & Igr Roach Killer Paste Not For Sale To: California https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015BSUAZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yuo3BbESDBGSY

I also add one more house to my tally, making it a total of 3.

Terro Liquid Ant Killer Baits( 6 Bait Stations Net Contents 2.2fl.oz/0.36fl.oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYIS7YW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uaqHybWQANNX7

Those are the ready to go baits. You can also buy just the liquid and put it in a bottle cap or something.

I have just successfully dealt with this without an expensive exterminator. First thing is to take the bottom liner off of your box spring and use this dust all on it http://smile.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463285327&sr=8-1&keywords=cimexa . The Cimexa will get under their exoskeleton and dry them out and kill them usually within 2 days. You want to use the Cimexa on your baseboards, light fixtures, outlets, and furniture. From all my research this is the best way to get rid of them as they are really resistant to chemical insecticides. Put your mattress and box spring in bed bug resistant mattress covers. Through all I read this brand was the best http://smile.amazon.com/Sleep-Defense-System-Waterproof-Encasement/dp/B01413355S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463285687&sr=8-1&keywords=bed+bug+mattress+covers. I put the Cimexa on the box spring on top of the mattress cover just to be sure everything died. You want to leave the mattress covers on for at least a year, the bugs can survive for up to a year with no food, so if you are just trying to starve them out keep everything sealed for at least a year. The plastic foot to put under your bed works, I used tuperware of water but I have plastic bed feet so I don't have to worry about rusting my bed frame, they cannot swim at all so the water is very effective, put bleach or witch hazel in the water to discourage molding and mildewing. Wash and dry all clothes on high heat, they will die within 20 minutes if exposed to 120 degree heat, can also put things in your oven that wont fair well in the dryer. Vacuum daily, make sure you take the bag out seal it in a garbage bag and take it outside far as you can from the house as soon as you are done vacuuming. Keep sleeping in your bed, you want to draw them out of their hiding spaces to get in contact with all the Cimexa you have laid out, you are essentially using yourself as bait, there are also so DIY CO2 traps (they are attracted to the CO2 we exhale) that use water and yeast or dry ice, I haven't used them but you might want to look into them if you feel so inclined. Good news is they are more annoying than anything, they are not known to spread disease or cause actual harm aside from being itchy. Good luck I hope this helps you.

To anyone suffering from bed bugs: http://www.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452125613&sr=8-1&keywords=cimexa

This stuff nukes 'em.

Buy some silica gel (https://www.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8) right now and just coat the entire apartment with it. Leave it as long as you can completely sealed.

It will kill any bugs in there. Check cracks in walls and corners, in between floor boards, behind appliances. Just buy like 2-3 bottles at least and just douse the entire place.

These have killed my ant problem and several other friends' ant problems in the past. If you haven't tried these particular traps yet, I highly recommend.

I bought a small bottle of the mosquito dunk granules several years ago. The bottle has sat outside (in sheltered spot) and they still work just fine. They seem kind of pricey but a little goes a long way and they don't seem to go bad.

Mosquito bits and/or Neem oil are all you need for gnats!

The bits kill the larvae in the soil and the neem oil makes the adults go crazy that they forget to eat, breed, or even fly!

EDIT: a great source for info on neem oil.

People mention this on here often

Mosquito Dunks 116-12 8-Ounce Quick Kill Mosquito Bits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LE1VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IQCazbP0A7CT4

Mosquito Bits or Dunks will kill them.

Put this all around in the car and underneath if it is stored in a garage. It will kill any kind of insect and is fairly non toxic to humans. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0085HRWI8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1463878556&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=cimex

Powdered amorphous silica, like this stuff. It will kill both, but it kills by dessicating so your ants won't be poisoned. Just don't put it where your spiders go.

I brought one home from golfing about a month ago and went to absolute war. CimeXa is all you need to get rid of them if anyone is out there strugglin'. I learned everything I could about these fuckers and used it once and haven't had any issues since.

They’re granules that kill mosquito larvae in ponds and standing water but also kill fungus Gnats. Here’s a link to amazon but you can find it in Lowes or Home Depot if you’re in the US.

This worked in my worm bin and all my potted plants inside the house. It kills the larva in the soil before they become breeders breaking the life cycle.

I bubble some in a container for a couple hours then strain out the bits and water my plants with it. Get some yellow sticky traps for the adults flying around and you are set.

Mosquito Dunks 116-12 8-Ounce Quick Kill Mosquito Bits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LE1VC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Y9Utxb7FEJXFZ

These are great for all flies:
Clear fly paper that you can stick to a wall or window and remove easily: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QBPP66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d.9OCb2WA1D7B

These kill fungus gnats: Quick Kill Mosquito Bits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LE1VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ua-OCbHNTK5J4

Both are safe for pets. If you have plants that’s where the fungus gnats are likely laying their eggs. You know if you have fruit flies because when you kill them their abdomen will have stripes. Setting out soap/vinegar traps should kill most of the adults.

Dust the place with this:
Rockwell Labs CXID032 Cimexa Dust... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085HRWI8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Use with this cheap bellows duster:

Harris Diatomaceous Earth Powder... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LRMN9ZM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Cracks and baseboards, and bed perimeter with this:
Ortho 0202510 Home Defense Max... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JYT16AA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Get that dust everywhere. I see you got rid of your furniture? But, when you get new? Get that stuff down in the cracks and everything. Do under your bed. Just do the whole place with a fine layer it will grind into everything and disappear...but stay there for ten freaking years. The NEXT day I started finding them dead and dried out. The live ones were all jacked up acting and had dry bodies inside of plump ones. When I mashed a live one? It just flaked apart. I still keep the bed traps under our bed feet? Nothing. Check out and read the reviews on that dust. It’s no joke and it won’t hurt you. It works FAST and it’s deadly.

I dusted the bed frame and pulled off the sheets and dusted the box spring and sides and my mattress too. Put the sheet back over it and pulled my bed about two inches from the wall...well I did all the beds like that.

I did every inch of this place....over kill. But they crawl trough that dust and it fucks them up big time.

It was ages before I finally felt completely “safe”. But I haven’t even thought about them in months now.

The dust is Cilicia gel. Like the little packets you find in new shoes of beef jerky. Dries them out. Just absorbs every drop of moisture in them. Works through their exoskeleton. Literally turns them to flakes.

BTI is a bacteria that is harmless to humans, animals, and plants but that kills mosquito and fungas gnat larva. I ended up with a bad fungus gnat infestation and other remedies were not helping. This is the only stuff that's helped. you sprinkle the pellets on the soil in the pots and water normally. I'm not sure what other mites or larva you could have. It sounds like fungus gnats though. They look similar to fruit flies but don't have any red on them. The gnats are harmless but the larva in the soil sometime eat the roots. Plus they're just kinda unsanitary. I hate them, it didn't take long for them to get out of control.

Long post incoming!

Not sure what you tried but here's what I did (sorry if you've already done these). Full disclosure, I'm not a professional in the slightest, but this worked for me.

1. Dry everything on high heat for 45 minutes (if it can handle it), wash it, then dry it again (I may be paranoid, but I'm thorough).
   
   
2. If it can't be put in the dryer, double bag it and put it in the freezer for several days. I mean SEVERAL days, don't short change yourself! Don't bring anything back into the room after it's been dried/frozen.
   
   
3. After pulling off the bedding, get a vacuum and vacuum the hell out of everything. If you see a bug (any bug. I commited a full-on insect genocide.), vacuum it up!
   
   
4. Get matress, boxspring, and pillow encasements. Make sure they are rated for bed bugs!!!! We sealed the seams and the zippers with duct tape because, again, I'm paranoid.
   
   
5. Pull the furniture off the walls, or at very least the bed. Get some [cimexa] (https://www.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8) or DE earth. Sprinkle it around the baseboards, around furniture... Hell put it everywhere. However, if you have bad lungs I'd recommend not running a fan while the powder's down.
   
   
6. We used a spray as well, but I can't remember what it's called. When I get home I'll look. Before putting the powder down we sprayed the various nooks and crannies.
   
   
7. Keep sleeping on the bed!!! I know it sucks, believe me! You may not be able to sleep, but you are bait. If you move they will look for you. You're their food. Before going to sleep, inspect the bed. If you see any bugs vacuum them up. It's exhuasting, but it's important.
   
   
8. If you want to isolate the bed go ahead. I heard mixed things from the pest control officers that I talked to, but if it makes you feel safer do it. I used something like these and put the powder in wells.
   
   
9. Please don't ignore your mental health! If you're feeling upset it's totally understandable. You will probably be tired, frustrated, itchy, paranoid... It's totally fine. Keep up with all the checks, vacuuming, drying/freezing, spraying and you'll get there! Just keeping on fighting. If it makes you feel better, think of this as away to reorganize, redecorate, or redo your home once they're gone.