(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best pet supplies

Aw that's wonderful! Congrats on getting sucked into the wonderful world of being a ratty owner - you're gonna love it!

So first things first: you ALWAYS adopt at least two rats. More is always preferable, and I personally think three is the best minimum because the difference between looking after 2 vs 3 ratties is honestly minimal, but that 1 extra furbaby makes all the difference to them. Rats are very very social and need friends to thrive and live happy lives. Even if you had all the time in the world and had 1 rat, you wouldn't be able to make up for all the things he needs to have with another rat(s).


Ratties are relatively simple to look after, although they do need a good bit of socializing, attention and stimulation. This helps them thrive and live happy lives. They're very intelligent and can learn a lot of things if you wish to do so - this stimulates them mentally and keeps their brains active, which again, makes them thrive!


I'll get the long stuff out of the way first and then give you a list of foods, bedding and cages after.


Generally, rats tend to adjust to new environments pretty well and they build bonds quickly too. It took my 3 boys about 2-3 weeks to become complete cuddlebugs and trust me. Of course, rats that come from a shop where they havent been socialized properly since a young age will be more shy and scared than rats from a breeder/accidental litters etc. There are different trust and bonding exercises you can do when you first get your ratties to help them adjust to their new home. There are generally 2 approaches that people take - slow and patient, or a bit more forceful. Both sides have their supporters and opposition. I find that a combination worked best for me. You just need to try and see which works best, all ratties are different. These are some of the things to do with new ratties:


When bringing the ratties home and setting them up in their cage, observe their behaviour. They will probably be a little shy but also curious, and the curious side generally tends to be stronger than the shy side! They will probably hide at first or stay in one place, but sit beside their cage and try not to make any sudden or fast movements. Just be there with them, let them smell you and get used to you, so they realize that you're a safe presence and youre not scary.


If your ratties are starting to walk around and explore their cage a little more, you can gently and slowly place your hand flat inside the bottom of the cage. Dont move, let the ratties come to you. They most likely wont be able to fight their curious side and will come over to sniff and maybe even have a little nibble on your nails, fingers etc. Dont move, let them do their thing.


Observe their behaviour and you'll be able to make a judgement on how they react to this approach. Put some porridge, apple sauce or pudding in your hand and let them lick it/eat it out of your hand. You want to pick something they wont be able to grab and run away with, which is why pudding/sauce type of food is a better choice. This forces them to eat near you and even lick you which teaches them that they can trust you, that they can get nice tasty treats and food off you and you wont hurt them.


They'll start becoming more comfortable and eventually they'll be climbing on you out of their cage when you place your hand inside, sleeping in your hoodie and riding on your shoulder. Let them do it at their own pace.


You should also spend time with them free roaming outside of the cage, to do some trust training and bonding. Many people choose to sit in their bathtub and let the ratties run around, explore and climb all over them. If you have a rat safe, smallish room, you can also sit down and let them explore and come to you etc. They'll have fun, they'll explore, play and they will start to include you. They'll gain confidence. Ratties tend to also playfight/wrestle with each other - this is normal and not a sign of aggression. The playfighting can look a bit scary if youre unfamiliar with ratty behaviour, but generally if theres no blood drawn and the rats still cuddle, eat and are relaxed around each other when theyre not wrestling, then everything is fine. They usually calm down with the wrestling after a couple of months.


Everything I described above is on the more slow and patient side. This worked beautifully with 2 of my ratties. One of them was a lot more shy however so I did try one forceful method with him and it worked amazingly.



If you do encounter a problem where a rat (or all of them) aren't really responding to these trust and bonding methods, then you can try the slightly more forceful approach. The idea in this approach is that since the rat is too timid/scared, you have to show them that they're safe with you. I had to do this with one of my rats and after 1 day, he changed completely. He became 100% comfortable and happy, he ran over to me when I came to the cage etc. Before that, he was in the hammock all day and didnt leave the cage, he didnt come to me at all.


I wore 2 shirts - one thin shirt underneath and a cozy big hoodie on top of that. All I did was take him out of the cage despite protests (squeaking and struggling was involved unfortunately) and I put him inside my hoodie. He was nice and warm there and at first he was a bit scared but he soon fell asleep. I walked around all day with him in my hoodie (obviously giving him water and food haha). Eventually he left the inside of my hoodie and started walking around on my shoulders, sniffing my face, nibbling on my hair, climbing up and down my arms etc.


That one day showed him that there's nothing to be scared of and he is completely safe with me. He will get food, water and shelter from me, he wont get hurt and he's completely safe. After that 1 day, he's been the most amazing sweet cuddlebug, very confident and very playful too!



So that pretty much covers the basic behavioural patterns and approaches - of course there's definitely something I missed and Im sure someone else here will bring up something I havent said, but that does pretty much cover the most fundamental basics.


As for food - ratties need a low fat, low protein diet. The best staple food to give them is lab blocks. A great brand that people swear by is Oxbow. The reason why this type of food is great, is because it's formulated perfectly to accommodate the ratties' diet essentials and the rats also cant be picky about which bits of food they do and dont like - this means they're getting ALL of their necessary nutrients. I wouldnt recommend getting any rat food mixes where all the nutrients they need are in separate foods all thrown together into a bag, because they're just gonna eat the bits they like and leave the ones they dont care for. Some people make their own mixes though and that works really well for them - it all depends on how picky your rats are. Personally, its hard for me to find Oxbow where I live and its very expensive to buy online, so I use this food. It's like a european version of oxbow, my rats love it and thrive on it. If your rats are young though, you want to give them a little more protein couple of times a week than is included in Oxbow or the food I use. Some boiled chicken two or three times a week until they're around 6 months or so (if Im wrong, please correct me on this, but Im pretty sure its 6 months).


You want to give them fresh vegetables to supplement their lab block diet. All the leafy greens are great for them, but other veggies are good too - just dont overdo it because the fibre will cause them to have runny poops. Rat poop should be like dry little pellets, with barely any odour unless you get all up close and personal. They might have diarrhea the first day or two when theyre in their new home just from stress, just keep an eye out on them. My ratties love cucumbers, kale, parsley, broccoli, tomatoes and spinach. Carrots are also a good choice. Try different things and see what they like. Here is a good list of foods your rats are NOT allowed to eat.


Fresh water should of course be available at all times. They should drink water only, nothing else unless you need some cranberry juice or something like that to mix with their medication if theyre sick.


As for cages - ratties need to climb, explore, run around and play. This is a rat cage calculator - select your units and put in the dimensions of the cage you're considering buying, it'll calculate how many rats can fit in the cage youre choosing. Of course this is a rough guideline, so use your best judgement - the cage may be big enough but if there's no shelves for them to climb onto or to place their food bowels etc. then its not suitable.


The ultimate cage everyone here recommends is Midwest Critter Nation. It's an expensive cage but it's perfect. Of course if youre only getting 2 or 3 rats, you dont need a huge cage like this. You can opt to get them the single Critter Nation rather than the double if you wish. That would be a great option for a smaller mischief of rats. The important things to look out for in a cage, is that the bar space isnt too big. This is especially important if youre looking to adopt girls since theyre smaller. The cage should also be powder coated, not galvanized and the bars ideally horizontal (this means the ratties can climb and its easier for you to hang their hammocks and other cage accessories).

Hello! Welcome to the wonderful world of betta keeping! I'm a bit late to the game, since this was posted a bit ago, and you've already recieved advice, but I'd like to offer up some as well.

As everyone has already said, it's a pretty big misconception for nearly all new betta keepers that bettas can be kept in small spaces without a filter or heater. This stems from the belief that bettas live in mud puddles, when it couldn't be further from the truth.

Bettas come from vast rice paddies, that will usually never dip below knee height and stretches for miles on end. In the dry season, the paddies do tend have lower water levels, but certainly not puddles. It's a densely planted ecosystem with moving water, and natural filters, ie. The plants and bacteria.

Since you're new to fish keeping (I assume, but apologies if I am wrong) you may not be aware of something called the "Nitrogen Cycle." While it may be confusing at first, essentially the beneficial bacteria that breaks down your fishes waste into ammonia, then nitrites, and then nitrates. This process is crucial for your fishes health and well being, and is very important in the fish keeping world, but I'll get into the specifics a bit more later in this comment.

While the "recommended" amount of space for a betta is commonly agreed to be 2.5 gallons, which is perfectly fine as a bare minimum, I would honestly not recommend such a small space for a beginner. This is because of the nitrogen cycle. I would go with a 5 gallon tank, or even a 10 gallon, which will be much easier to cycle and keep your fish much safer during the process.

As for the nitrogen cycle itself, the process happens on it's own, but you have to be the one to keep your fish safe during it. Basically, ammonia and nitrites are deadly to your fish, and for the first few weeks, these will be all too common. What your aiming for is the much safer, but still harmful in large quantities, and manageable nitrites at the end of the cycle.

The nitrogen cycle starts with the addition of ammonia into a new tank. This can be done in 2 ways, fish in or fish out. What you'll be doing is a fish in cycle. Beneficial bacteria will begin to grow in your tank to break down waste and convert them into the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. The bacteria grow on surfaces, such as decor, gravel, filter, heater, glass, and is NOT present in the water itself. This means that for the next few weeks, you gotta stay on top of your water change game.

50% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 30% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 40% water changes about every 3-4 days for a week. 30% water changes about once or twice a week at the end of the cycle. I know it seems like a lot, but your fish will appreciate it.

For more information on the Nitrogen Cycle, you can search it on google, and a helpful video to watch on it is KGTropicals youtube video "everything you need to know about the nitrogen cycle." They break it down so well and have more visual representations, so I definitely recommend it.

Some things to consider getting for your fish as well, and things that will help your cycle a TON. I'll be adding links for visual representation, as well as trying to find you the best prices I can.

1. A good sized tank. I recommend a 5 or 10 gallon, much easier to start and keep a cycle in a bigger tank, but yes, 2.5 gallons is perfectly fine if you need it space wise. Be aware that even more water changes will be required to keep and maintain your tanks balance though.
   
   No links for this one since shipping a tank is a PAIN, but 5 and 10 gallon tanks can be bought from places like walmart, or local stores, or petsmart and Petco. I'm not sure if petco is still having their dollar per gallon sale, but a 10 gallon tank would only be $10.
   
   
2. A good water conditioner. I recommend something like Seachem Prime or Neutral Regulator. These will remove any heavy metals, chlorine, and chlorimine from your water, AND detoxify ammonia, and nitrites for 48 hours. This is SO GOOD for keeping your fish happy and healthy during the cycling process.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Safe-250-g-8-8-oz/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=seachem+prime&qid=1572116532&sr=8-8
   
   
3. A good filter. Personally, sponge filters are the way to go. Easy, cheap, reliable. Most local fish stores will have the sponge filter itself, but they can also be ordered on Amazon. The other things needed would be airline tubing, and an airpump. The tubing and air pump can be bought even at big retailers like walmart or meijer and replaced easily sin e they're so readily available.
   
   To clean a sponge filter is the easiest thing. While your changing tank water, out some in a clean bucket, take your sponge filter out, put in bucket of removed tank water, squeeze sponge filter, put back in tank. It also holds an awesome amount of the good beneficial bacteria and will not lose it when you clean it, unlike changing cartridges for a hang on back filter. They also aerate the water, bringing more oxygen into it, and don't create a high flow that will tire your betta.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Lefunpets-Biochemical-Sponge-Breeding-Aquarium/dp/B07VM8DN5Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=sponge+filter&qid=1572116736&sr=8-7
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Pump-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fish%2Btank%2Bair%2Bpump&qid=1572116792&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airline+tubing&qid=1572116832&sr=8-3
   
   Hang on back filters can be used too though, I just don't find them as reliable.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-Three-Stage/dp/B001CHXJSK/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=fish+tank+filter&qid=1572117085&sr=8-16
   
   Be sure to use a hang on back appropriate for your tank size. Bettas can tire easily of water flow is too high, and in some cases you may still need to baffle the filter.
   
   https://youtu.be/Hse7F3pvHqI
   
   
4. A good heater. Ideally, you want one you can adjust. Choose a heater for your tank size as well. Too small, won't keep water warm, too bug, could possibly cook your fish. That's never a good thing.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/HITOP-Aquarium-Reptiles-Thermometer-50W-Grey/dp/B07MJJJ4QQ/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDIw-ac_d_pm&keywords=fish+tank+heater&pd_rd_i=B07MJJJ4QQ&pd_rd_r=429ee2a8-3699-45aa-8e2b-e30164b14a2a&pd_rd_w=uFCrj&pd_rd_wg=125c4&pf_rd_p=808372f4-ce06-4458-88ef-16b605aa053a&pf_rd_r=T4YHMVDAP5EAQSAGXKJV&psc=1&qid=1572117367
   
   
5. A good food. The recommended I've seen so far is Northfin betta bits, or Fluval bug bites. You can also go the frozen food route, but it's a bit more expensive and involved.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=northfin+betta+bits&qid=1572117834&sprefix=northfin+&sr=8-2
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A6577-Tropical-Granules-Medium/dp/B07194GD1F/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=fluval+bug+bites&qid=1572117868&sprefix=fluval+bug&sr=8-4
   
   I use a mix of Aqueon, Northfin, and Fluval for some variety in my bettas diets along with frozen blood worms. They love them. I've heard Hikari betta food is good too.
   
   I don't recommend the generic foods sold at walmart. The pellets are too big, and the formula is low quality. It'll keep your betta alive, but just isn't great for them. Also, flake foods are a no no. It's just too messy, the fish doesn't eat all of it, and just isn't worth it.
   
   Lastly, you want to decide what kind of decor you will go with. If you go artificial, be sure to use soft, silk plants so your bettas fins do not get hurt.
   
   I recommend live plants always though, cause they help a lot in keeping your tank clean, produce oxygen, and will help absorb some of nitrates in the water. All around good stuff. Easy plants to take care of are anubias, java ferns, java moss, water wisteria, and floating plants like water lettuce.
   
   Bettas also need hiding places. This can be anything really. From the decor sold at walmart, natural looking rock caves, or even a terracotta pot. It doesn't really matter, as long as it doesn't have sharp points.
   
   The decor is up to you and what you like.
   
   Ummmmm, I can't think of anything else really. But if you need any help with anything, feel free to reach out! A lot of us are passionate about our quirky little dudes and gals and will be more than happy to help with anything you need advice on. And use the internet to your advantage too! There's TONS of good information and videos out there now, and you can find what you're looking for at the touch of a screen now.
   
   And also also, please do not feel bad about your start at betta keeping. We all start somewhere, and more than likely, we have all made this very same mistake. I know I did. The best thing to do now is to just work on upgrading your little dude and providing the best care you can for him. He'll start to heal up and REALLY shine.
   
   Apologies for extremely long message, but I hope this helps and wish you and your betta the best of luck!! ☺️

Lots of big dog stuff here! Here's some nice things for the little guys (~25 lbs and under). Many of these items are good for big dogs, too; will note them with a * sign and list them first in each section.

Treats

• Himalayan Dog Cheese Chew*: Long-lasting hard cheese chews; can be microwaved to make "cheesy popcorn" for your dog when it gets small enough to pose a swallowing hazard. Comes in a variety of sizes.
  
  
• Brushless Toothpaste*: Our dog LOVES this stuff, and it keeps his breath smelling awesome. Also helps keep his teeth clean. May want to introduce these into the dog's diet slowly, as some are sensitive to the ingredients but acclimate over time. Comes in an even smaller size for the really tiny dogs, and bigger sizes for the big dogs :)
  
  
• Freeze-dried chicken*: Easy to break into small pieces and sprinkle over your dog's kibble or regular food.
  
  
• Stella & Chewy Meal Mixers*: Great to sprinkle over your dog's regular food for both nutrition and novel taste.
  
  
• Fruitables Minis: Small and low-calorie; great for clicker-training your dog. Comes in a wide variety of flavors.
  
  
• Crazy Dog Bacon Treats*: Also small and very-low calorie; another good clicker-training tool.
  
  Toys
  
  
• KONG Mini Squeaky Tennis Balls*: Great for dogs who like either balls, squeaky toys, or both! My dog had zero interest in balls before these, and they're still the only ones he'll play with. Come in lots of sizes; not good for strong dogs who like to chew up their balls.
  
  
• Dog Tornado*: Easy introductory puzzle toy that's not too big for little dogs. Good for kibble, wet food, and treats. May be too big for dogs under 7 lbs.
  
  
• Dog Tower: Another great introductory puzzle toy suitable for small dogs. Good for kibble and small treats. Not sure how this'll hold up to big dogs, although I think it'd be fine with the gentler ones.
  
  
• JW Treat Pod: Kind of like the Kong, but better suited for gentler, 'licking'-type dogs. Easier to clean out as well, IMO; the small Kongs are so hard to get completely clean even with a brush.
  
  
• Outward Hound Flirt Pole: Fun and easy exercise, the Outward Hound version is more lightweight and suited for small dogs.
  
  Harnesses, Collars, & Safety
  
  
• Pet Stairs*: Large collection of pet stairs. Some on this page are suitable for large dogs as well.
  
  
• Hurtta Active Dog Harness*: High-quality dog harness for dogs that love to run around the outdoors in all kinds of weather and elements. Comes in a variety of sizes; for dogs 7+ lbs.
  
  
• Ruffwear Swamp Cooler*: Comes in XXS, XS, and S. Great for keeping your dog cool in the summer if you don't live in a humid area.
  
  
• Hurtta Pet Overall*: Great for rain and snow; comes in a variety of small sizes. Fit perfectly on our Pom mix and very high quality.
  
  
• Musher's Secret*: Protect your dog's paws in cold weather.
  
  
• Sleepypod Clickit*: Crash-tested car harness, comes in a variety of sizes.
  
  
• Sleepypod Mobile Carrier/Car Seat/Pet Bed: Crash-tested dog bed/car seat/carrier!
  
  
• Lil Pals Step-in Mesh Harness: For the seriously small dogs.
  
  
• Ollydog Marin Collar: Completely waterproof, rustproof, extremely durable, easy to put on...the perfect collar!
  
  Grooming
  
  
• The Stuff Detangler and Conditioner*: Keeps your dog's coat looking clean and glossy; easy to apply and doesn't have a strong odor.
  
  
• Lil Pals Grooming Kit: Miniature grooming tools for your miniature dog at a very affordable price.
  
  Edited to add more+formatting!

How much training has your wife done with him? If you are the one who primarily trains him (even basic stuff like you taught him how to sit and lay down as a puppy to you are the primary reinforcer of good behavior now) he may not know that those 'rules' apply to your wife as well as he may not get reinforced for his choices on her watch. Get her more involved with his training. An easy way to do it is just to have a bag of tiny treats in your pocket - catch the puppy being good? Give him a treat and attention. Is he doing something he shouldn't? Teach her how to redirect and reinforce once he IS doing something he should be doing.

AKA: he is in the cat room, have her call him to her (recall - she can issue a treat once he gets to her feet) and have her redirect him to his bed/mat ("Go to bed") and give him a frozen kong or favorite chew to work on instead.

> but I'm looking for ways to "scold" bad behavior without being rough with him

Scolding is not very effective. As I said before, your pup will learn that the 'correction' only comes when you are around and often times will try to do those behaviors they get scolded for when your back is turned. It is much more effective to redirect - especially with such intelligent breeds - and reinforce what you WANT and ignore the stuff you dont.

A dog is MUCH more likely to repeat a behavior that MAY result in a treat than avoid a behavior that MAY result in a telling off. If I had $100 on the coffee table and you knew that if I caught you taking it would result in me yelling at you - PROBABLY wouldn't inhibit you that much. If you knew that you could get $500 for giving me a compliment, you would probably be more apt to take advantage of that. Works the same way with dogs - they can mildly entertain themselves with self reinforcing behavior (stealing things, getting on furniture, etc) or they can get really big rewards (food, attention, plays, etc) for repeating certain behaviors that often result in those big desirables.

> He's at that point where he's essentially forgotten all of his puppy training, and just "goes through the motions" of sit/down/rollover for the treat. Wife tends to treat him anyway and reinforce the incorrect behaviors.


Revisit the Training basics - particularly the rate of reinforcement. Once a behavior is proofed you should not be giving a treat every time they do X. Training is a fine line. When proofing new behaviors, frequent rewards are a great thing, but once the behavior is learned and reliable, you want to randomize when a reward will happen.

Think about it this way - why are slot machines so entertaining to people? It is not so much 'winning' but the chance to win that keeps people playing. If you won ever single time you played a slot machine you would be really excited about it at first then start to loose all interest - it becomes more of a vending machine then a slot machine. It is that balance of win/loose that keeps humans engaged. You can use that same mentality when rewarding your dog. My theme with this has been 'dogs will repeat what is rewarding' and really encouraging the use of practical rewards in tandem with things like treats - but you need to find that balance.

Especially if your wife is not holding a consistent level of criteria, treats should NOT be involved. Get back to basics - back slides with training are often human problems not dog problems.


> but the Corgi will turn his attention to the GSD and bark/bite/growl at her. Maybe a protective thing?

Depends. Maybe, maybe not. If the GSD is the one with all the energy and excitement he may just be trying to play/herd/interact with that excited dog. It probably isn't very protective unless he is putting himself between your wife and the GSD, growling and air snapping defensively, it is probably more play. Corgis can be very excitable. Read up on Canine Body Language. A happy/playful dog will have a curvy posture and be bouncy - a defensive dog will be ridged and focused.

> The crate we are using is the wire kind like you said, and it used to have a plastic tray on the inside.

If there is nothing between her and the grates on the bottom of the crate use a piece of wood or buy a new tray (if you havent already)- that is really uncomfortable to lay on for any length of time. A large piece of dense wood (not ply wood, the can easily chew off flakes) on the floor would work well or a heavier piece of plastic. You may want to find a way to fasten the tray into the bottom of the crate with zip ties to help prevent her from moving it around.

> as she'll be stuck in there for 8-9 hours without release.

How much exercise does she get in the morning before you leave? Do more. Spend an hour at the dog park in the morning or play training games in the yard. Someone letting them out in the afternoon will help, but unless they spend 1 hour+ with them playing pretty hard, your dog is still going to have a lot of energy stored up.


> Been going to dog parks more. Corgi seems more interested in being slow and peeing on everything (he's not fixed.) GSD enjoys the ball/frisbee and runs a ton.

Corgis seem to be really sniffy dogs - GSDs do have a lot of drive for balls (depending on their breeding lines, but in general this holds fairly true). Try to get them both out and running. Maybe go to the park with your wife and each of you take a dog - find some dogs they like to play with or other activities they enjoy. Flirt poles are great for corgis - they aren't typically good fetchers unless you spend a lot of time teaching them (this will vary, but I know a LOT of corgis and I only know 1 who will fetch reliably). They DO enjoy herding games and running around. Sniffing is kind of like the internet for dogs (lame comparison but not untrue) - it is good mental stimulation but your pup still needs plenty of physical exercise. Training games at home can also help -set up a small homemade agility course, work on tricks or teach him to herd a large ball around the yard.

Okay a few cat suggestions.

1. http://www.catgenie.com/ buy one of these. It will save you a LOT of scooping, and the soap cartridges it takes last a long time (months) and are cheaper than cat litter. Because this device uses a plumbing connection (water supply and drain) it flushes the cat waste down the drain so there is nothing to scoop or empty. Buy the normal retail unit, then sign up for the VIC program- over the course of a year they'll send you a ton of supplies, but it doesn't auto renew. The VIC supplies are cheaper than retail and work in the normal retail cat genie.
   
   
2. To litterbox train your cat, look up a product called Cat Attract spray. If you get the Cat Genie, DO NOT put the cat attract litter in it- it will clog and destroy the machine. Use the spray, or litterbox train the cat with a normal litterbox and then switch to something automatic.
   
   
3. Keep your cat inside. Inside cats live longer, healthier lives. However she should still have a collar and a microchip- cats can sometimes escape.
   
   
4. Learn to communicate with your cat. Cats do most of their communication through body language, not meows. Most domesticated cats adapt and use meows to communicate with humans to some degree, but if you learn to read the cat's body language that can be a big help. There are lots of resources on cat body language so I won't go into it much here. But a few tips- tail straight up plus long meow is a greeting when you get home, tail up generally indicates happy or curious, ears back plus cat/tail low to the ground equals pissed off. Staring straight at a cat can be a sign of hostility. However if you look at the cat and blink very slowly, sometimes the cat will return the sign- that is a sign of non-threatening familiarity. Same thing if a cat does it to you, do it back. Cats rub against things partially to scent-mark them- so the cat rubbing past your leg is partially an affectionate sign, and also marking you as part of the cat's property. If a cat rubs its face on you (especially your own face) that's a strong sign of approval, it's considering you to be part of its family. When a cat rolls over and exposes its belly this is a sign of trust, not necessarily and invitation for a belly rub. Some cats like the belly rub, some don't. If you want to try it, start at the top under the chin.
   
   
5. speaking of things cats like- scratching between the ears, rubbing around the ear sockets (there are a lot of little muscles in there which orient the ears), scratching lightly on the underside of the jaw and off to the sides below the cheeks. Some cats like having an ear lightly rubbed between two fingers. Right above the base of the tail is another good scratching place. Most cats would prefer having their legs and paws left alone.
   
   
6. Don't declaw your cat. Declawing in human equivalent is the same as tearing off the end of each finger at the last knuckle. Get a good scissor-type nail trimmer- petsmart has them in the dog aisle. The cat designed quick detector one doesn't work at all. DO NOT cut the 'quick'- the pink area inside the nail. That will hurt a lot and bleed. Nail trimming time should be when the cat is very tired and relaxed so she will sit still. Plenty of treats should be involved. It's not always possible to do all the nails at once, sometimes more than one session is required. If you absolutely must declaw your cat, only declaw the front paws. However a better solution is to get a good scratching post and reward the cat for using it. Get something fairly tall- cats like to stretch out when they scratch.
   
   
7. The more water your cat drinks, the better. Cats in the wild get most of their water in the meat they eat, so this is especially important if your cat eats dry food. This gadget works really well- cats instinctively know that running water is cleaner than stagnant water, so a bowl like this can encourage the cat to drink more. Proper hydration can prevent kidney and bladder issues.
   
   
8. It IS possible to train a cat. The difference is that unlike dogs, cats are not pack animals. With a dog, once you establish yourself as ahead of the dog in the pack order, the dog will naturally obey as long as it understands the command. Cats have no such compunction, so you have to train them that it's in their best interest to obey. Negative reinforcement doesn't work well with cats, positive rewards work much better. IE, if you want your cat to come to you when called, having a treat ready as a reward is more effective than punishing the cat who doesn't come. You can train your cat for 'OFF!' or some similar command- for a while, when you say OFF, if the cat doesn't move chase her off whatever she's on, then ignore her. You don't want to create the association that 'off' is the start of a fun hide and seek game.
   
   
9. If you need a punishment, a spray bottle full of water works nicely. It's totally harmless but cats don't like it. There are a handful of automated defense systems like static zapper mats and motion-detector compressed air spray things that work pretty well for training cats to stay off tables and stuff.
   
   
10. If the kitten gets low to the ground, looks at you, and starts wiggling her butt, prepare for a incoming kitty-missile.
    
    
11. Back on training- you can train the cat to not bite or use claws when playing. If you are playing with the cat and she gets a bit too rough, make a loud 'OUCH!' type sound, and end the play session (just walk away and ignore her). Then wash off your hands- any cat bite or scratch should be washed with soap and water.
    
    
12. All cats go through a phase where they bite all the time. The bites are generally soft play-bites that don't hurt.
    
    
13. Cats are smart. If you feed your cats by hand, they will usually figure out that rub against the leg + meow anxiously + be adorable = get food. Keep an eye out for when your cat is training you. Alternatively, get the cat an automatic feeder (only works well with dry food).
    
    
14. Keep your cat entertained. Get a bunch of balls and toys and stuff and leave them laying around. This is especially important if you only have one cat- two cats will entertain each other, one cat will be bored out of its mind when you are away. Many cats prefer toys that make noise of some kind. A cat tower is another good investment.
    
    Hope that helps!

Equipment: IMO aquaclears are the best HOB filter. Canister filters are a little more expensive and can be a little more difficult than HOBs at first as far as cleaning and setting up. However, they are superior to HOBs in most ways. Eheim and fluval make great canisters, then sunsun have been hit or miss from what I've heard.

I suggest getting two heaters, one on each side of the tank. That way if one fails your fish won't be fried or frozen.

Substrate: pool filter sand is easy and cheap, it can grow plants fine if you use root tabs. You can try the walstad method, which involves putting down a layer of organic potting soil then capping it with sand. It is cheap and very effective for growing plants if done right. The downfall is that it can be messy and its very very hard to rescape. Other options are plant substrates. Eco complete and flourite are two decent substrates for growing plants, moderately priced too. If you have extra money to spend then you can use some type of aquasoil. ADA, Mr. Aqua, ST are all high quality plant substrates, but again pricey.

Lighting: Finnex makes great LEDs for growing plants, a little expensive, but they are very good. For 20" height, the planted+ or original Fugeray should be fine without CO2 and not promote too much algae.

Plants: For plants, you probably won't be able to carpet dwarf baby tears without a strong LED and pressurized CO2. You can do a dwarf hair grass carpet, but it might go slowly without investing in a good light. aquaswap is a great place to buy plants. Butteredscrimp puts out a monthly sale and can help you assemble a plant package. I can vouch for him as being reliable. Just have to give him a price range, some details about your tank such as lighting and size, and some plants you like!

Decorations: Driftwood is a great way to fill space and make your tank feel a little more natural. Spider wood and manzanita are my favorite. Check your LFS to see if they have any pieces you like first. If not, there are several good places you can get driftwood online. Driftwood will release tannins (won't harm fish) into your tank when placed in water and might take a while to sink depending on the piece. I suggest putting it in while your tank is cycling.

You can also go with rocks/stones. They should be scrubbed under hot water before going into the tank. Some rocks can break down and affect your water chemistry. To test if they will you can do the vinegar test. Take the rock and add a few drops of vinegar or a stronger acid. If it fizzles or bubbles then it should not be placed in the tank because it can raise the pH of the water.

Fish: For shrimp amano shrimp are great, they eat hair algae and scavenge leftovers. They won't breed in freshwater though. Red cherry shrimp come in different grades (all very attractive) and are a relatively easy shrimp to keep, they will breed like crazy if provided an adequate environment The babies will be small and can/will be eaten by most fish.

For snails, nerite snails are regarded as some of the best algae eaters, won't reproduce in freshwater, and they are very cool looking. But female snails will leave unattractive, hard to remove, white eggs everywhere. You need a metal blade to scrape them off. u/gastropoid is your go to for snail info.

For a schooling fish you can go big or small. some of my favorite bigger schooling fish include congo tetras and bosemani rainbowfish. There are lots of other good sized rainbowfish if you decide to go that direction. Some popular small schooling fish include harlequin rasboras, neon tetras, cardinal tetras, and rummy nose tetras. Other tetras and rasboras will work too! Some rasboras are tiny though, maxing out at about 1 inch so those are a little less compatible usually. Barbs are another good schooling fish, but they can be nippy and semi-aggressive. Otocinclus are a schooling fish, but they are algae eaters and can be a little sensitive when brought into a new tank.

Fish I would avoid are common plecos, they get massive. And chinese/siamese algae eaters. They are fantastic algae eaters as juveniles, but they become aggressive when they grow up.

final thoughts: if you're going planted, look into EI dosing and root tabs, it will help plants thrive. You said you have experience with freshwater tanks so I assume you know about the nitrogen cycle and fishless cycling. If you don't there is a site under the helpful links tab at the top of the page. Look through the other links there too! great information. Visit plantedtank for more plant info, inspiration, and guides.

Good luck!

The Kickeroo is stuffed with soft stuff, like cotton batting. My cats hate paper filling in such toys but love the Kickeroo. It's been my experience working with cats that this is basically the only Kicker toy worth buying. This is only helpful if she is a kicker, i.e. when she plays, if she lays on the ground and uses all four paws to kick/shred the toy/your arm. It's a natural instinct cats have to disembowel prey. But not every cat is a kicker, so not every cat will benefit from this.

Not every cat responds to catnip, so no biggie there.

It sounds like she's just too intelligent for her own good. Either there is some physical quality to the wand that is attracting her (can test this by either removing the string part or just holding the toy in your hand so essentially the toy is only a stick, then moving the stick on the ground like it's prey), or she has figured out toy -> string -> stick, so if you get the stick, you win. I'd recommend a wand toy with a longer string. Da Bird entertains 98% of cats in my experience. Also, the cat dancer is 100% worth the $3.50. It moves like a bug would. In my experience, 100% of cats under 5 respond to it. They might get bored after 5 minutes, but I'm usually bored after 5 minutes, too.

Your cat sounds like a really good candidate for clicker training. The idea with clicker training is twofold: one, you train her to do what you want her to do (be quieter, leave you alone when you are doing certain things); two, she gets a sense of intellectual fulfillment and satisfaction. Cats are designed to hunt prey. When they live in our homes all their lives, they never get to do what they were meant to do, so I think it's natural that they are frustrated at times. When you clicker train a cat, you are stimulating a part of their brain that makes them think. If they respond to certain stimuli, they get a reward. Even if you just do this 2-3 minutes a day, you should see improvements in her temperament.

I've used an assortment of free resources (there is a great Yahoo group for clicker training cats) to teach myself. There are also two books that are considered the gold standard for this: this and this. I haven't read them, but if you're looking for a quick way to start, I've heard good things about both. The clicker is important - you can also use an old jam lid (one with those pop up buttons) as long as it makes a distinct, regular, loud-enough sound. This is all based on psychological research, so don't skimp on that part.

Wish I could be of more help! Good luck.

150 is totally realistic. Planted tanks are the best. I'm not sure what advice you've already received but 10 gallons is "big enough". It is just that the larger the body of water the easier it is to keep stable. 10 gallons is an awesome starting point. I'll take a shot at a $150 total setup, that is plenty for a planted tank:

• API master test kit. Most important of all important importants :). No really though, get one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497496243&sr=sr-1&keywords=API+master+test+kit - $30
  
  
• 10 gallon tank from petsmart or petco - $14.99
  
  
• Aquaclear 30 hang-on-back filter - $32.00. This will eliminate the need for a air pump and sponge filter.
  These things are awesome.
  They are reliable, have adjustable flow, and make it so you can stack the media you want in your filter without having to go crazy expensive witha
  canister filter.
  They also come with really decent media. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497495329&sr=sr-1&keywords=aquaclear+30
  
  
• This light will grow low maintenance plants easily and is highly reviewed - $17.99: https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-Aquarium-Light-Extendable-Brackets/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1497495518&sr=1-4&keywords=aquarium+led+light
  
  
• Cheap and awesome heater AND thermometer combo - $14.00 - https://www.amazon.com/Aquatop-Aquarium-Submersible-100-Watt-Thermometer/dp/B06X3RYRMD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497495598&sr=8-1&keywords=aquatop+100w
  
  
• Food of your choice ~ $4-8. I highly recommend Hikari Micro pellets. They are one food that my most stubborn will eat and they are small enough that no matter what age fish you get they will be able to eat them.
  
  
• Seachem Prime $13 - Hands down best water conditioner out there. MUCH CHEAPER online. Do not buy it in stores if you can avoid it. It will last forever too: https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1497495705&sr=1-1&keywords=Seachem+Prime
  
  
• Hiding places and plants - $??? - The rest of your budget I guess. I like to build caves out of slate tiles and silicone from home improvement stores ($1.98/sq foot). Bettas like to explore and like places to get out of the light when they feel like it. Building slate caves is a really cost effective way to do that. Another idea is the super cheap clay pots. If you get clay pots just make sure you plug the hole at the bottom of the pot (the edges are very sharp and will cut your betta's fins).
  
  
  • As for live plants I have had the best success with shopping on amazon or /r/aquaswap. Some great vendors (and I mean great, the plants come in amazing condition days later in the mail) are substratesource and Aquarium Plants Factory
    
    
    So that is ~$120.00 without the plants and hiding places. That leaves you $30.00 for plants which is a great amount of money to get a very nice planted setup going. My 1 best piece of advice is to heavily plant the tank from the very beginning. The more plants you put in there, the more competition there is for algae and the better everything in your ecosystem will thrive.
    
    Edit: forgot to include cleaning basic tools such as a siphon: https://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Aquarium-Gravel-Squeeze/dp/B00BDPFYEI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497496172&sr=8-2&keywords=python+siphon and a bucket :) make sure you get those.
    
    =D

You've gotten a lot of good opinions, I'll throw mine in for fun :-)

First. I think you're a good dog owner and I think you can make this work.

Many people have suggested a dog walker - I think that is a great idea. I have a coworker who has a dog walker who gathers up a few dogs from his neighborhood, drives them to a park and they have 3+ hour adventures! Plus they get to spend some time riding around to pick up and drop off the other dogs, I think it really fills their dogs day. My coworker does this M-F but even one day a week would be awesome.

Second. Work his brain. I'd start feeding all his meals in a food dispensing toy he enjoys. I used all of the ones I'll link below either for the dogs I work with or my pets.

[Bob-a-lot] (http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob-A-Lot-Interactive-Pet-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4) This one is pretty tough and can be left alone with some dogs

[Tug-a-Jug] (http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Dispensing-Medium-Large/dp/B000KV7ZGQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426890582&sr=1-1&keywords=food+dispensing+bottle+rope+toy) This one can be dangerous if they eat the 'rope' but I love how ease it is to fill.

[Tricky Treat Ball] (http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Large/dp/B0002DK26M/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426890517&sr=1-3&keywords=food+dispensing+dog+toy) This one takes my dog FOREVER but holds her interest well. The plastic is really soft so I supervise her using it (while I watch TV or brush my teeth) so she doesn't just lay down and chew at it to get her food. The other thing I like about the soft plastic/rubber is that it is pretty quiet for her to use unlike the other options I've listed.

[Buster Cube] (http://www.amazon.com/Buster-Food-Cube-Large-Colors/dp/B0006G54OU/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1426890999&sr=8-9&keywords=food+dispensing+dog+toy) Not sure if the buster cube was the first of the roll around style food dispensers but it was the only one I knew about for a long time. They're pretty sturdy and challenging.

There are a LOT more food dispensing toys out there but I think the ones they have to move can be a little more exciting than a tightly packed kong they lick at. Kongs are great too, I'd just include them in a rotation of feeding devices.

Another thing you can do to make life more exciting for your dog is to rotate toys. If he has a lot of toys only leave out 2 or 3 on a given day and swap them out for toys you've kept hidden and occasionally introduce a new toy. Some dogs really love novelty.

Finally I think trick training is great. A few 5 minute sessions a day of learning a new behavior, or building on an existing behavior is a great way to beat the boredom.

Some fun tricks you can teach that you can use to make really complex behaviors are take it (hold in mouth), paw target (touch with foot) and nose target (touch with nose). You can use those behaviors along with others tricks to teach him to close doors, open doors, turn lights on and off, put things away, cross his legs, ring a bell, limp, pretend to pee (targeting with a back foot) etc.

Lastly, I'd teach him to search for hidden items in your house. I like to hide something while my dog is out going potty, then watch her search for it while I brush my teeth.

Hope those ideas for easy entertainment help some! Keep the dog, do what you can, you're doing SO MUCH MORE than so many dog owners already. I think he'd be fine if you kept him and just did what you're doing now. :-)

Oh! Excellent!!! You'll be so happy with your kitty. Here are some of my cats' favorite things:

(1) A view out an open window, facing a tree or some kind of natural shrubbery where he can chirp at squirrels or birds (if you have access to such a thing). Even if there's no "wildlife" in the area, cats like to look outside at passersby too.

(2) High places, like cat trees, or window ledge lookouts: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/images/Categoryimages/normal/p-21651-43327-cat.jpg

(3) Multiple sources of water, and preferably a running fountain. Amazon has one for $20 I think. Cats don't have much of a natural thirst drive but (males especially) are prone to urinary crystals. One of the best preventatives is drinking plenty of water, which cats are more likely to do if you give them a running source of it. You'll also find that some cats like to drink out of your own water cups lying around. It may not seem important that they get that much water, but my cat has been hospitalized twice for urinary crystals and that's way more expensive than a fountain.

(4) Scratchy posts and such. Keep them off your furniture!

(5) A litter box, preferably a covered one, in a private area. A rug underneath it will help with your own sanity because they'll kick the litter everywhere. I've turned the closet under the stairs (the Harry Potter closet) into a cat bathroom for my babies with a motion sensor light to give them privacy. I currently use this litter: http://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Premium-Clumping-Litter/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1370152220&sr=1-1&keywords=cat+litter I used to use World's Best but it was like they were crapping in crushed diamonds, it was the most expensive thing I was getting for them.

(6) A furry bed or basket with blankets. Cats love that velvety furry texture. Mine seem to love baskets, but really anything with high walls that encloses them. If you are low on $$ then even a cardboard box with some squishies to line it are excellent.

(7) Toys that act like actual prey. My cats love Da Bird and they love this crittery thing even more: http://www.amazon.com/Da-Bird-Catcher-maker-Feather/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1370151820&sr=1-3&keywords=da+bird, and I find it's more resilient than Da Bird (they yank on it). Toy mice and crinkle balls are also a favorite. Laser pointers, catnip-stuffed anything are also favorites. I've never known cats to really like balls or larger toys much. If it looks or acts like something they'd hunt, they basically go crazy for it. Again, if you're poor, you can easily make crinkle toys out of plastic bags (just watch the kitty during playtime and put the toys away when you're not engaging), or catnip-stuffed socks.

(8) Microchip! Collar! Kitties are good at sneaking through open doors. My cat is also insured and I've saved hundreds on his vet bills, it can be a good decision.

I can't say I'm the best with food recommendations. Sometimes it just really depends on your budget and how your cat likes and responds to food you're feeding him. If he has a glossy coat, minimal shedding, and a healthy weight, it's a good food choice. Hopefully someone else can chime in with what they're feeding their kitties!

Your problem is... you have a kitten.

Honestly, all of this sounds like a normal young cat with a lot of energy who's bored out of her mind. Different cats have different energy levels, and your mom also had multiple cats together. Your kitten is alone, so all of her entertainment comes from you or from finding things to do herself, many of which won't please you. I would check out something like this book, which is a quick, easy read and covers strategies for all of the problems you're having. In brief, here are some things to try:

• Scratching: Offer lots of acceptable scratching surfaces, both vertical and horizontal. Sisal posts and pads as well as cardboard are all great and really cheap. Put them in areas where your kitten likes to scratch. If you see her scratching the carpet, pick her up and gently move her to the scratching toy. If necessary, reward her with a treat the first few times she uses the toys.
  
• Scratching: At the same time, you want to make the carpet less appealing to scratch. Try putting down double-sided tape or tinfoil in the affected areas. Both of these are cheap, easy to remove, and won't hurt the cat or the carpet.
  
• Scratching: Keeping the cat's claws trimmed will also reduce her need to scratch, but keep in mind that scratching is completely healthy and necessary for all cats. (For one, it's how they stretch their back muscles.) If you're totally unable to get the scratching under control with toys, you might also look into getting Softpaws for her, but you probably won't need to.
  
• Activity at night: Cats are most active in the evening by nature; they're technically crepuscular. To help you get your sleep anyway, you'll need to do multiple play sessions in the afternoon and evening. Yes, that takes time, but it's a pretty fun investment in a good night's sleep. Laser pointers, Da Bird-style toys, and this weird thing are all great for high-energy play. Cat playtime should mimic hunting and stalking prey, so avoid just waving a toy in her face (which can get the cat frustrated and more wound up). Hide the toy in various spots around the house, peeking out just a bit, and make her hunt it. Make her run and jump. With my 16-month-old, playtime isn't really done until he actually starts panting. (Be reasonable with this, obviously.)
  
• Meowing: I would revise feeding times. Ideally, you should play with the kitten before bedtime, then feed her. That way she'll be worn out and ready for a long nap when you go to bed. If you're currently free-feeding, consider moving to one or two distinct feeding times. This will allow you to make food a bonding event, and if you play with her before feeding time, you'll also reinforce the sense that she's hunted successfully and can now settle down. Important: Avoid feeding her first thing in the morning, which will encourage her to meow at your door to get you out of bed. My cats eat dinner when I come home from work, then have playtime and treats right before bed. (They eat high-quality dry food for treats, but they're kind of weird.)
  
• Activity at night: Simply speaking, your cat gets bored at night, so offer entertainment that doesn't involve harassing you. There are lots of inexpensive toys she can use by herself, including puzzle toys that dispense treats. Leave her with one or two each night; change it up to keep her interested. A cat tree by a window can be a good way to let her observe nocturnal wildlife and secure her territory, and it can be a good place for her to sleep as well. If you can get her sufficiently worn out before bedtime to make this feasible, I've found that letting my cats sleep in my bedroom actually keeps them calmer and quieter. They take their cues from us settling down and going to sleep, and they feel safe to do the same. My older cat would meow at the door all night when she was young too, and we didn't start getting normal sleep until we let her sleep with us.
  
• Deterrents: You've already figured this out, but punishing cats doesn't really work. They don't understand what's going on and can get anxious and neurotic, and if they're sufficiently bored, even getting water sprayed at them can be a fun way to get attention. The best way to modify cat behavior is usually to offer more fun and interesting alternatives, while making the undesirable behavior less fun and more difficult. In your case, your kitten has figured out that meowing at your door will get you to interact with her for a solid hour and a half. To avoid this, something like the Ssscat may be a good way to keep her away from the door at night without interaction from you. However, you'll have to do this in addition to, not instead of, all the stuff above; otherwise she'll just meow at your door from three feet away.
  
  Good luck!
  
  Edit: I fail at Reddit formatting, apparently. ;_;

I can help with this! This info is not coming from things I've read or seen, but from an actual cat behaviorist (yes those are a real thing/person) that I had to hire to help with a very similar situation you are in.

1. Is this your only cat? If not some cats really do need a buddy if possible, that might not solve all the nighttime problems but can help get that crazy energy out.
   
   
2. Even though cats tend be awake more at night you can get them used to your sleep schedule.
   
   
3. We were told the kitten needed to be physically and mentally stimulated so he would sleep better and get that excess energy out.
   
   
4. I commented on a previous post on how she taught us to play with the cats, this is what I wrote:
   I second the playing tactics. I had to hire a cat behaviorist for one my cat (yes it was that bad) and she taught me how to correctly play with cats. Mimicking how a prey acts and behaves makes play time physically and mentally stimulating for kitty. Just changing how I played with him changed some of his misbehaving.
   I totally got into the roll of the "prey" and actually really had fun figuring out new ways to do that. I've found one of my cats loves to catch things in the air and jumps super high. My other cat is super fast and after the initial stalking period he loves the toy to be whipped around like crazy.
   
   This is the toy the behaviorist recommended and it is amazing. It's cheap, the cats LOVE it, so I always keep a supply of them in the house. The other thing is to make sure you don't leave these special toys out all the time. Put them away when you are done playing so it remains an exciting thing for them to do.
   
   
5. She told us to play with him until he was breathing hard, NOT panting just breathing hard. As a signal to the end of the game let the kitten "win" by getting the toy and playing on their own for a few seconds.
   
   
6. If you play with the kitten in the morning and the evening at the very least it helps get all their little energy out.
   
   This of course is by no means the only way to do things, but it really worked for us. Hope your kitten calms down and you can start getting more sleep.

1. Something Grey. Manatees love tea too.
   
   
2. Something reminiscent of rain. I have have a 6 hour thunderstorm on my iPod that I listen too almost every night to help me relax and go to sleep. But, my pillow finally gave up the ghost, so I use ear buds...not as comfy.
   
   
3. Food related, yet unusual. May seem tame to most, but my brain can't wrap around how these will/would taste.
   
   
4. On my list for someone else. Slightly NSFW! For my wife who has sensitive...well, you'll understand when you look at the link. She needs this stuff to be more comfortable. I only have to look at them funny and it's too much for her.
   
   
5. A book you should read. The Red Tent, is a book based on the fictional life of Dinah from the old Testament. She is is mentioned only once I think in the bible, but the author of this book weaves a life story based on how women where treated and lived back then. Dinah lives in a harsh world but learns from the women around her and see the workings of this mysterious entity called God in her world. It is a wonderful read and having to tell you about it reminded me I want it again to reread. Really a great book.
   
   
6. Item that is less than a dollar. This awesome awesome fantastic song!
   
   
7. Something for my kitty Cassie May. I've always wanted one of these for my kitty and this was the perfect opportunity to finally add it to my WL.
   
   
8. Something that is not useful, but so beautiful I must have it. Isn't it a beautiful ring?
   
   
9. A movie everyone should watch once in their life. Because it is so imaginative and awesomely made with the puppets and sets. And David Freaking Bowie and his cod piece and hair are sexy yet so evil. ....you remind me of the babe
   
   
10. Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. Keep my shankin' knives sharp yo!
    
    
11. Something that would have a profound impact on my life and help me to achieve my current goals. Currently I have no real space to do my painting and in a month and a half I'm moving and will have even less space to myself and my painting. This would enable me to paint at any table. For without being able to take a breather and paint, I can not be myself and have those moments to detach and relax so I can later go out and be the best adult I can be.
    
    
12. Pesky add-on. To make your hair o'so happy.
    
    
13. The most expensive thing on my list. My phone is currently my only camera. I've always dreamed of owning a "professional" camera to go take pictures of all the things!
    
    
14. Something bigger than a bread box. Vroom Vroom
    
    
15. Something smaller than a golf ball. Tee Tiny!
    
    
16. Something that smells wonderful. Romance by Ralph Lauren. Has been my go to perfume since highschool.
    
    
17. SFW Toy. She's evil but she's suitable for any setting!
    
    
18. Something that would be helpful for going back to school. Everyone needs to look stylish and stay cool for school!
    
    
19. Something related to my current obsession. I've become crazy about all things tea!
    
    
20. Something SO AMAZING! BEHOLD the splendor It's adorable, handmade, and I have seriously become so enamored with it! Thought you might like to see it's awesomeness.
    
    fear cuts deeper than swords
    
    Thanks for the fun contest
    

For my cats, it took a lot of trial and error, but we found that our cats like wand toys best, especially if there was spring that stimulated more than one sense, like a bell or something hard that could be tapped. We really like the neko-fly toys, but those are expensive (like twenty dollars for wand and toy) and we found that the wand wasn't sturdy enough for our cats.

The wand toy only works for ours because we will run down the hallway with it to the bed, where they like to attack it with pillows in strategic locations for optimal pouncing. Also, my backpack is a great barrier because they love the smell of it so will often play around that while a wand toy is in motion.

One of our cats also enjoys playing fetch. We use small stuffed mice. If they have real fur, the cats love it the most but I've found that those last barely a day. I have also used leather straps that I got at hobby lobby. They like chewing on the ends.

For awhile we had a track with a light up ball that they would play with.

Also, the standard laser works. The only problem with that is cats like to chew on things, abs the laser really didn't have that. Give them treats after playing with the laser.

Also, is your cat lazy? We found that when our cats are fatter they are more lazy, but much more active when we started cutting back their food intake. Also, not playing with them near their food dish is useful to, as they will tend to think they are getting fed instead of being played with (will think this if you have set feeding times, mostly).

Finally, you're going to have to try different toys. My cats really like the stuff they can chew on our hold onto. We had foam balls for awhile that basically disintegrated from being chewed up so much (lol!) And also, those craft fuzzy balls were fun. The smaller ones, we found out one of our cats had eaten when we cleaned out the litter box. Since, we've gotten large fuzzy balls.


Oh I also remembered that they liked sniffing and chewing those antlers that you can get dogs. A small one is large for their mouth, and I'd recommend one that was split open, but they liked it a lot. We never let then have it without our supervision though.

Oh, and like I said in my earlier comments, anything that has my sweat on it, they will go insane for. Try running your hands over toys to get them interested.

So, going off that, some dog toys can be just as much fun. Just think like a cat when looking at toys. And don't restrict yourself to just the cat toy section. Try the hobby aisles or the dog aisles.

Sorry I can't be too much help on toys but perhaps these suggestions will help!

This would be a much more suitable cage for three rats as it's made of metal but the base is easy to remove for cleaning as is the shelf. http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY It's actually the cage I have for my 3 boys and they enjoy it. Eventually I'd recommend maybe expanding it to include the top cage as well so they have even more room to move around if possible. Also, the bonus of this cage is that there is a shelf below it where you can store things. Just make sure that you aren't storing food down there because they will eat it. My husband also made a little ramp out of a piece of wood he covered in felt so that when we let our boys out they can come and go out of their cage as they please. Also, we use felt rather than fluff for their cage (mainly because one of our rats is allergic to most fluff) because it's so much easier to change. We change the felt and do a full wipe down of the cage with soap and water/disinfecting wipes every 3 or 4 weeks but with cleaning up/picking up poops/emptying their poop pan every couple of days. We use a shallow and small brownie pan for a poop pan and stick it to the floor with magnets. That way it's easy for us to remove but they can't push it around or flip it over.


You can get a bowl and water bottle at petco. They're not expensive. Make sure that you get food blocks for them rather than a food mix. With a food mix they can pick and choose what they want to eat (such as just the seeds) whereas with food blocks they will get complete nutrition in one place. We keep the food blocks in our freezer to avoid any tiny bugs that may come join the bag (which happened in the past when we ordered a large 50 lb bag and kept it in a plastic container...big waste of money).


Most rats will not use that flying saucer. Also, they can be dangerous and ratties can hurt themselves on them. I would not recommend getting one.


If they fight I would just let them be unless they're really getting loud and squeaking a whole lot. Then break it up. Usually a "hey!" is enough to get them to stop. But if not then you can always poke them with your finger. Not hard. Just enough to take their attention off of each other. Fighting isn't always a bad thing. Sometimes ratties just do it for fun and it's more like wrestling even though it might look like fighting. It's also a way to establish pecking order/the alpha role.


You don't need to give them specific vitamins but there are several foods that you should never give to rats. There's actually quite a long list so make sure that you google it or use the links at the side of this subreddit. They will help you learn what is okay and what's not okay for them to eat. They will get all of their vitamins in the food blocks but rats do get bored easily so you need to make sure that you supplement with veggies and fruit. Also, yogies (yogurt drops) are a wonderful treat for rats. They LOVE them. You can find them at petco next to the rat food.


You should let them out daily or at the very least every couple of days to explore and run around. We let our rats out for a few hours a day. But please make sure that you have a specific area for them to explore and that there isn't anything around that can hurt them or that they can get into that they shouldn't. We like to let our rats run around our living room. We block off our kitchen door and our hallway door and let them run around and explore. Rats love to chew so try to keep an eye on them. Chewing is a natural thing though. They do it to keep their teeth at the right length. A good way to combat chewing is by making sure that they have enough toys and things to play with in and outside of their cage. That link to that little toy you put up is a great and fun thing for rats! They will destroy it in no time at all but they will immensely enjoy it. See the links at the side for more toy ideas or google some.


Rats do need bathes every now and again. It can be difficult though as most hate water. If you want to introduce your rats to water then use lukewarm water in your bathtub and put just enough in that part of the floor is covered but that there's still a dry area for them to go if they hate it. They may try to climb up your arms and claw the shit out of you like mine do and they may poop a bunch but don't be alarmed. Those are fear poops. Just scoop them out and continue on. Use just a dab of animal safe shampoo and wash them. Do not get their heads super wet. I usually just avoid their heads all together. It's going to be difficult to wash them if they hate the water but sometimes a full bath is really needed. Other times you can just use a warm, wet washcloth and wipe them down. If they hated the bath tub then there's a good chance they will hate the wet washcloth as well. We bathe our boys when they start to smell or just if it's been a while. So probably every 2-3 months. They are really not fans of water so we try to only bath tub bathe them if a wet washcloth won't do the trick. Just make sure that you have a fluffy dry towel to wrap them in once they are done so they can be nice and warm!


If you need any other advice please feel free to ask. Just make sure that you check out those links to the side and really really study up about how to properly care for a rat. Rats are amazing little creatures and are such fun pets but like any pet they do require care and love. So get as familiar as you can with proper care before you bring them home.

I've posted this before, and it's a great list! Originally posted by u/manatee1010 and I have tried several:

I keep this list of brain toy links handy to send to friends who get dogs. It's getting pretty long...

Toys that get stuffed with food and frozen:

• Kong Classic (15-20 minutes) (it sounds like Watson is lukewarm toward this… have you tried mixing a spoonful of canned food in with some kibble and freezing it?
  
  
• Zogoflex Toppl Interactive Treat Dispensing Dog Toy (this can be a stand-alone toy, or if you get a big one and little one they can fit together and dispense kibble) (15-20 minutes)
  
  
• Starmark Pickle Pocket (my big dog really likes this one… we put cheese in it) (20-25 minutes)
  
  Kibble dispensing toys, hard material (good for carpeted areas)
  
  
• Bob-A-Lot (~10 minutes… this one can be adjusted to make it harder)
  
  
• Tug-A-Jug (10-30 minutes, depending on the dog)
  
  
• Magic Mushroom (10-30 minutes, depending on the dog)
  
  
• Kong Wobbler (~5-10 minutes)
  
  
• IQ Treat Ball (~10-15 minutes)
  
  
• Pet Zone IQ Ball (this is the ONLY toy my dogs can’t get all the kibble out of. They’ll usually persist for half an hour or so before they give up)
  
  
• Buster Cube (I think this has several difficulty settings… my guys now don’t have one of these, but my dog when I was growing up had one. I’d guess this is probably a 20-30 minute toy depending on difficulty and what you load into it)
  
  
• Treatstik – I have NO idea how long this one takes to load, but it’s on my to-purchase list because it seems like it’s one of the longer lasting toys on the market. If anyone has/gets one, I’m super interested to hear about it!
  
  Kibble dispensing toys, soft material (good for hardwood/tile/laminate)
  
  
• Barnacle (this can be stuffed like a Kong as well… I lost this one when I moved but I think in terms of kibble dispensing it was shorter lasting, maybe 5-10 minutes)
  
  
• Tricky Treater (I REALLY like this one; super easy to load and clean, lasts 10-15 minutes)
  
  
• Tricky Treat Ball (another super easy one… <5 minutes)
  
  
• Planet Dog Orbee-Tuff Snoop Treat Dispensing Dog Toy – this one just arrived yesterday so I don’t have a solid rating of its durability yet, but so far it seems great… easy to load, takes the dogs awhile to empty, and super duper quiet.
  
  
• JW Pet Company Treat Puzzler Dog Toy (this one is super easy for them to empty… I’d say 3-5 minutes)
  
  
• PetSafe Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble Meal Dispensing Dog Toy (this one is okay, not my favorite… I didn’t like that I had to make a decision about cutting it immediately after opening. It takes ~5-10 minutes to unload)
  
  
• Starmark Treat Dispensing Puzzle Ball - this one is new! I almost bought it the other day but haven't yet; I think it's most similar to a Buster Cube in terms of adjustable difficulty, it's just a softer material.
  
  Time-release kibble dispensing toys (good for work days)
  
  
• the Foobler is great because it works on a timer that rotates to the next of six, ¼ cup food hoppers at set intervals of time (you pick, the options are 15-30-60-90 minutes), which makes it last way longer than most of these toys. This is hard plastic.
  
  
• CleverPet – this has a December release date. I’m way pumped about it and have been in touch with the company… hopefully I’ll be getting one of the first models off the line!
  
  Lastly, there are also these two that I haven’t tried yet, so I’m not positive how to classify…
  
  
• Starmark Crunching Barbell
  
  
• Starmark Treat Crunching Multiball
  
  
  ETA: If you have any others you like (or don't like) that I've left off this list, please chime in!

congratz !! :D

Our siberian favorite toy is this one
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075SZCLZR/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

He absolutely LOVES it, he hides, he plays, he plots against us in there, the wrinkly sound make it super fun for him, and it's extremely robust couldn't find a single tear even with him putting is claw through it.

for a cat tree, it's better that you invest more money in a basic one, than paying for a cheap huge tree, siberian are BIG cats that LOVES to climb and jump and he will throw himself on it and you don't want an accident happening. Molyy and friends does amazing tree, we bought this one
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000OSIJA6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It think he would have love one that his higher than this one but they get pricier, He's spending 80% of his time on it. the top bunk is his bed, he love to run and jump through the loop, playing pick a boo in there, and it comes with the scratching post that is high enough for him to stretch plainly.

this brush is a must have, not a choice YOU NEED IT, Siberian need good brushing often to avoid painful matted fur, get him use to being brush EVERYWHERE very young (especially the butt, and under his "armpits")
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0040QS3PO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Best laser toy ever. you don't have to keep your finger on the button for it to work, it's super bright, and the cat will recognized the toy when he sees it before of it's bright color. we just need to say " Gaspachio wanna play ?" and show him the paws and he starts puring and getting ready to hunt. Make sure to train him to play with laser when he's young by rewarding it at the end of a session with a treat and making him stop on toy (so he has the feeling for catching something) after a few month he will have understand that the red dot CANNOT be catch, it's just fun to run after, and you won't have any mental issue with the cat.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074Q2YK3L/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This window bed is super strong, at first we though he didn't like it because we didn't saw him on it, then we realized he's always on it during the day when we're not home. And when we start pulling the curtain over it he starts going even more often since it's an "hidden place"
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005AUM8U0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Absolutely NEVER feed you cat with crap cheap brand, if you can afford a 1k cat you can afford good food and treat for it. and brush his teeth regularly.

Also, plenty of soft hugs <3

Honestly, it's better when you move out and can afford the best cage, food, stuff to make toys with, time to devote to cleaning and money for vet care, etc. You can have your own apartment and everything just the way you want it.

My mother grew up on a farm, and will never ever see "fancy" rats as they truly are. She's been open minded about some things, but the rat thing, I never tried to push at all while I lived at home. It wasn't worth rocking the boat, because I honestly didn't have the most stable childhood, and that's not great for pets either.

I live in a nice place now, I'm cozy and comfortable and have an awesome supportive partner. He's a great rat friend too. I've got a double unit Critter Nation, which is the best cage ever and I only wish I had TWO, but I have 6 rats and this cage is a mansion to them. They adore it, and have several hammocks, different boxes, paper bags, toys, tunnels, etc., which I switch up every few days to keep things clean. I use unprinted newsprint; the big pads you can get at art supply stores, since I always have extra around and it's great. The rats love it.

I have lots of cute ratty pictures on my Instagram/Imgur, and my mother and father see them all the time. They respect that I have them but they do not like them and I don't think they ever will. It's sad, but all I can do is give the rats the best lives with as much attention and love and brain stimulation as possible.

They've started to learn the floor is not lava. It's a full time job babysitting them since they want to explore, and the cats are terrified of them! Yet intrigued.

Tellin ya, I had pets as an adolescent and it was never right with my parents. I'm glad I waited.

Hey! Vet student/cat owner here. /u/ads215 has already answered a lot of your questions, but hopefully I can provide a bit more info on others!

Regarding vomiting: it's true that some cats vomit regularly (though usually not as much as 1-2x per week) BUT there could be an underlying cause, too. Is there always heaving with the vomiting? How digested is the food? It could be because of eating too fast (you can get dishes that help with that, or try something like this), or it could be a sign of disease.

My cat poops 1-2x per day. Again, your cat having a bowel movement only every few days might be normal for her, or it could be disease-related.

As for separation anxiety, it is seen much more often in dogs. Cats are really good at entertaining themselves. Like the other poster said, toys, windows, even little twist ties are great ways to keep your cat busy and active during the day. (Side note: to keep it fun, have "sets" of toys that you switch out periodically. Makes it seem like brand new toys every few weeks!)

I have a Sunny Seat for my cat in the window which he LOVES, he's either there or on top of his scratching post most of the time. Which leads me to another thing - do you have a scratching post for her? It's a behavioural need for cats to scratch, and if they don't have something appropriate to do it on, you can expect other things to get shredded.

Also, her breath - normal cat breath definitely exists, but it can also be a sign of dental disease.

Overall, most of my points go to the same conclusion: I think it would be of great benefit for both of you to visit a veterinarian for a wellness check. You can bring all of these issues forward to the vet, and they can check out the cat physically and figure out if they're normal or concerning. Not only that, but you can also talk to them about looking into pet insurance, which, in my experience with bengals, every owner should have. They tend to need a little extra veterinary care.

It was really awesome of you to take in this cat! I hope that she's with you for a long time, I can see that you're having fun with her!

So precious! If he's your first, I really recommend a few things if that's ok! Amazon/ ebay links but products can be found elsewhere.

Watch My Cat From Hell - it's FULL of good ideas and knowledge, despite the cable TV format.

Harness and leash train your cat asap. Not only can you then take them for walks (which takes a couple years to do but is well worth it), being ok with a harness and leash will make him way easier to travel with and take to the vet.

Cat backpacks are easier than cat carriers; I like the solid rectangular ones best.



Check out robot toys that your cat can play with on their own, as well as bouncer toys (basically a long wire with a little cardboard thingy on each end that you can wedge somewhere for them to play with.

Couple of things mine love:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006N9I68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP7F8YC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



A cat tree next to a window with a bird feeder outside (you can get ones that stick onto your window) will make them very happy. Note on cat trees - I got a really good deal on ebay recently, and the same cat trees were way more expensive on Amazon - I totally recommend checking ebay for cost comparison on this. They were like 30-40% cheaper.

He looks like he's going to be a floof. I recommend these two brushes - the first is for removing extra hair every so often in the summer months, the second is a general daily brush (I just keep them in the powder room seeing as my cats insist on going to the bathroom with me anyway). This seriously reduces the amount of hair all over your home. We barely have cat hair on anything aside from their regular spots on cat furniture.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CWCRFUW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YIWUXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If they do turn out to be floofy, watch out for them seeming bit light/ skinny in hot weather - they can get dehydrated, and this is a real life-shortener. Avoid cheap cat treats, which tend to be too salty (Temptations/ Dreamies etc) get the vet recommended sort.

My cats also love this fountain (we've gotten them three and this is the top pick and the easiest to use):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TY5D6C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Learn to trim his claws yourself - you'll save your furniture. I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002RJM8C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh that is hard one. I work on this with mine, but I think her prey drive is just too high for me to ever take her off-leash without worrying.

Look here for some basics on teaching recall. A long line is a great start. You want to find whatever motivates your dog best. High value treats, favorite toy, play. I'm going to copy/paste a previous response I did as to how I taught my chaser recall:

> With Syd, the best initial technique was the turn-and-run. I would call Syd to come and turn around and run in the opposite direction so that she ran after and chased me, then I rewarded further either with play or treats. Syd loves chasing! I then varied the rewards, switching between chase, play, and treats. I usually use treats now with only an occasional turn-and-run, and higher value treats for bigger distractions (dogs, squirrels, etc.). Recalling with distractions is still a work in progress.

A flirt pole can also be a useful tool in teaching your dog a good leave it. My dog loves to chase the flirt pole, but I taught her to only chase when I release her and to leave it when I say.

Generally, you want to start easy, reward really well, and gradually build up distractions.

I would highly suggest you stay away from the integrated kit approach and buy components. As someone currently trying to overcome an Eclipse system, the burdens far outweigh the benefit of integrations and ease. There's more than enough on getting adequate components here, and I would be happy to help you out with the decision, as would others.

Seeing as how you (thankfully) seem to like to take your time and do this right, I offer you some suggestions:

• Whatever tank you want. They're not going to have the greatest selection at Petsmart, but if you find something you like, get it. There's other places online that will ship the tank, but this is probably your best bet to get locally. Though the LFS isn't stocked very well, they might have a number of respectable tanks. Make this decision count-- you will be stuck with it for a long long time, and the ability for your tank to grow with your tools/abilities is crucial.
  
  
• Just pony up the money and get an Eheim Classic. For a 20G, you'll probably want to get this one. If you're getting anything larger than a desktop tank (and, BTW, that's a pretty good one), you'll need a real filter. This may seem excessive, but the dainty POS filters that come in kits ALWAYS wind up biting you in the ass. There are people here that are still using the same Eheim Classic that they purchased 15 years ago. It's a standard for a reason-- it's effective and reliable. Pay for it once and you'll never have to buy another unless you really move up in size. If you really don't want to go that expensive, the best bet is to stick with an Aquaclear filter. For the price, these things do a bang-up job!
  
  
• Just don't skimp on a heater. This will do you well, and it's not too expensive. You don't want your fish either roasting to death or accidentally freezing in the middle of winter. Hagen is a good brand to go to here.
  
  
• LED lights these days are great, and have hit a point where the ROI is seen far earlier than previously, and I'm talking about a year. When you get fluorescent tube fixtures, you use more power and have to replace the lights at least every year, and some replace them every 6mo. It depends on how much light you need, but again, I feel you need to recognize that you will grow with this tank, and buying a lighting system now that is cheaper but unable to grow plants will wind up costing you way more in the long run than just getting an LED fixture for 60% more that will last you years and require very little money after the initial purchase. For a first-time tank, I'd suggest a Marineland Singlebright if you really never envision yourself growing plants (which is half the fun in a tank these days), or a Marineland Doublebright if you'd like to grow plants and want an easy, cheaper option now. Know that those two fixtures are the lower end of the LED lighting bars, and you would do well with something like an Ecoxotic Stunner, where you can start with a fixture or two and then add on to the circuit later when you want more light for more plants. Also note the size of all of these fixtures have to be in line with the size of your tank-- there's no universal size.
  
  
• Note, also, that if your LFS sucks in the stock department, and Petco irks you as much as a lot of people here, there's many places where you can order fish and plants online. I haven't heard any horror stories with the big guys, so maybe check them out. Unfortunately, my LFS's are great, so I've never had to resort to these means. I've heard good things about aquabid, and really, you should join plantedtank.net and see what you can find either locally or on the buy/sell/trade forum. Also, joining a local aquatic org can open you up to a ton of CHEAP possibilities.
  
  Good luck. There's lot to research and plan, as well as to spend on, but getting a good setup is so rewarding and relaxing, that it pays back in spades.

20g is a nice size to start with.

Ok, seeing as you've come out and stated you have very little knowledge I'm going to list the absolute necessities. Apologies if you already have these covered, but it's better to be over cautious!

• Filter - Absolutely 100% required, this is only second in importance to the water IMO. The Aquaclear 50 would suit you well. However there are many other suitable alternatives, of which you may already have one.
  
  
• Heater - Ok maybe it's necessity depends on the stock you want to keep, but I'm guessing you'll go tropical purely since most people do. A 50-100W heater should be powerful enough to maintain tropical temps.
  
  I'd encourage plants. They give the tank a natural look, as well as giving the fish places to hide and relax. Happy fish are the best fun to watch, so it's worth making sure they're comfortable!
  
  There are literally hundreds, if not thousands of stocking options you could go with. Try using this website to try out different options. It's not the absolute gospel, but a very good indicator.
  
  As for general advice, read, learn, and live the Fishless Cycle. It explains why cycling is necessary, and how to do it.
  
  Good luck, and post pics as you go along :)

You basically need to find a way to keep him entertained in the mornings. Here's a few options:

1. Get him a buddy. My kitten used to be so needy and wanted to play at the worst possible times up until I introduced her to one of my cats from home. I have since moved that other cat into my apartment and they are best friends. They play together and wrestle all the time. Your cat is still pretty young, so this may be a good option for him.
   
   
2. Get him some toys/games that will entertain him for a while. There's actually a lot of toys that cats can play with that will keep them entertained on their own. If you have an iPad or a tablet you can download games for cats. I have a laser game and a mouse game that I downloaded for free and I just leave the iPad on the floor and they play with that for quite a while. Other entertaining toys we have are this (courtesy of this year's Reddit Secret Santa!) and also this. Both these toys can keep my kitties entertained for quite a while.
   
   
3. I've never had to do this, but you could try getting up with him at 6 one morning to play, and then the next morning make it 6:15, and then so-on until you're at the ideal time for you. Again, I've never tried this, but it might be worth it.
   
   
4. After you establish a better sleep schedule for him, keep him in your room on the nights that your roommate's girlfriend stays over. Then she can't really wake him up and make him want to play. If that's not an option, you could ask her to play with him for a couple of minutes in the morning before she leaves.
   
   I hope you figure something out for both yours and your cat's sake. The best solution for me was to just get another cat. Now I don't usually have problems with them wanting to play at bad times anymore. But I know that for a lot of people, getting another pet just isn't an option. So I would definitely try the toys. I'm sure there's plenty of other toys out there other than the ones I mentioned that could work for your kitty as well.
   
   One last note- if your kitty isn't neutered, I would definitely recommend getting him neutered. Neutering cats has a lot of benefits, and it might even help with the howling- source
   Again, good luck!

this may repeat what others have said but this is a fairly exhaustive list of things that have shown really good response from my cats:

• Go Cat mouse teaser - made by the same people who made da bird (next bullet) which is featured a lot on My Cat from Hell and is a very popular toy; my younger cat goes APESHIT for it every time and wants to play with it whenever we let him - he will jump higher and run faster than with any other toy
  
• Go Cat "Da Bird" - simply put, a great cat teaser; it will whistle through the air if you guide it at the right speed (pretty easy to get after practice) and both of my cats love it (and as mentioned above, very very popular)
  
• pom pom balls, fluffy puff balls/"mice", etc. - basically balls that are soft, fuzzy, and can fit happily in cat mouth - my cats bat these around (under couch/table/etc. :/) and carry them around the apartment proudly
  
• mylar balls or other chewy/noisy balls/"mice" - great for making noise to pique their interest and also fun to bat, carry, etc.
  
• random shit filled with catnip - I first bought one of those little animals that you fill with nip, but now I just fill an old sock, tie it off, and it works just as well
  
• laser pointer - I linked the one I use, but obviously doesn't matter which you buy; however, you need to commit to some time with playing with this each session, as I've felt that starting a play session only to stop before your cats are exhausted is asking for trouble, as the laser pointer gets them SO EXCITED that they stay crazed and they have to burn off that extra energy somehow...
  
• BOXES - do you buy things? KEEP THE BOXES - they are probably the most easily/cheaply accessible toy you can get with the most use because cats love playing in, sitting, sleeping, squeezing into, etc boxes like it's nobody's business. also - keep the bubble wrap/air packs because those are also fun to pounce on/attack
  
• straws - I bought a pack for like a dollar and have tons still - not always a hit but are fun to chew and bat
  
  that's about it as far as things that remain interesting... and that fit in nice categories
  
  note the Go Cat toys will become destroyed if you leave them out unattended/after play so keep them somewhere out of reach when not in use

I would recommend a cage that is both long and wide rather than tall. While tall is nice so that they can have fun climbing, it is more important that they have wiggle and walking room. A cage with a larger area per floor will allow a lot more room to run, stretch, and play.

The best cages to buy are the ferret/critter nation cages. They are wide and long which allows plenty of room. If you're on a budget, a single layer will cost you about $150-$200, but it's well worth it. It comes with a base floor for your fuzzbutts along with a shelf for them to climb onto. Here's a link to it on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Critter-Nation-Single-Unit-Stand/dp/B0085W9CL8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1410383879&sr=8-3&keywords=critter+nation

If you have a bit more money to spend, I recommend going with the same thing, but the two layer cage. This will give them double the play room and satisfy their need to climb and explore. It's also not too tall, so you don't have to worry about them falling/jumping off. Here's a link to that one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NJ0DAY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I, myself, purchased the double layer cage along with an extra "attachment" layer on the top. I dedicated the bottom cage to pooping/eating, the middle layer to playing, and the top to sleeping. It takes up a good amount of space in my room (being a bit over 7 feet tall with all three layers), but my three carpet sharks love it, and it's got the durability to last you a lifetime. (:

I hope I've helped! Let me know if you have any more questions or concerns, and I would be happy to help the best I can!

Hi there, what a great contest! :)

My Sofie kitty is 2, so not quite a kitten anymore, but she is such a sweetie pie and loves to play!

I found this, and thought it was really cool! Sofie likes to drink fresh water the best (directly from the faucet) and this seems like a neat alternative!

As I said, Sofie loves to play and I know she would love this mouse toy on my For the Kitty wishlist. :)

Thanks so much, I hope you and your kitty have a wonderful Christmas!

I agree with the other posters who advise you to be patient and let her adjust to this big transition before you worry too much. When I moved recently, my cat was so shook up about it that he hid for three or four days and had no interest in even his favorite toy.

One thing you can do is cat-ify (to steal words from Jackson Galaxy) her environment so that she has lots of options to "own" her new space. Perches, cat trees, scratchers, etc. Access to a window where she can watch outside. Don't be too worried if she doesn't use something right away. Simply having plenty of spaces where she is free to be a cat should help her start to feel at home.

Wait for her to "ask" you to play when she's ready. What I mean is: as she grows more confident in your home, she'll start taking an interest in play. She may find your phone cord and start batting it around. Or seem very intrigued with the birds outside the window. Or you'll be petting her and she'll start trying to bite your hands like a toy. Whatever it is, one day you'll see that kitty instinct come out in some way.

When you see it, that's a good time to try to engage her with a toy. She'll be less likely to be fearful of it because she'll be in her hunting mode. It can also help you determine which kind of play she prefers: some cats love the chase, some cats love batting a toy, some cats love to hide and watch a toy move before pouncing..etc. One of my cats absolutely loves to chase toys around as I wave them while the other seems to prefer observe-pounce-run away-repeat.

Finally, as far as treats... don't worry so much. First of all, she may just not be into treats because she's adjusting and (kind of like a human) has other things occupying her attention. But I have found many cats that just aren't as food motivated as others. It seems some cats live to eat and others eat to live. There is nothing wrong with her if she's just not that excited by snacks.

I hope this helps and reassures you that you're doing a great job and she'll grow in confidence over the next few weeks and you'll see her personality start to come out more. As an owner of a treat-picky cat, I have had huge success with these treats. For toys, I haven't met a cat yet who doesn't end up loving [this thing.] (https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cat-Catcher-Teaser-Mouse/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1527026128&sr=1-5&keywords=cat+wand)

Good luck and congratulations on the new kitty!

Setup Questions:
1.
If you're looking to have planted tank, check out real substrates that can grow plants better. I originally bought Sand by Imagitarium at Petco and thought it would work , but found out that this was just finely blended gravel and had no nutrients in the substrate.

http://aquariumadviser.com/best-substrate-planted-tank/

I am currently using the Eco-Complete and my plants seem to grow really fast in them . You can use those "Flourish tabs by seachem , but I haven't experiment them enough to see any changes . My Anubias lasted like 3 months until a plastic ornament melted one of the limbs that touched it and turned all brown and transparent. It's a hardy plant, but right now it seems to turn black from some kind of algae that's ruining the other limbs.

2.
Look into this heater. I have this in my Marineland 5 gallon and my Top Fin 10 gallon . It keeps it at a constant 78-80 degrees. It automatically turns on and shuts off by itself. Depending on the room temperature it can go up to 79-80, but the heater shuts off around 78 and just turns on and off on its own . I think its great and even have an extra one in-case I need a backup.

3.
Look up "seachem stability" as well. Prime dechlorinates water, but you still need a bacteria to help the culture of bacteria to build to keep ammonia 0 , nitrite 0 , and nitrates fine . It's a good bacteria to cycle the tank and does not require any refrigeration like other live bacteria. I've used API quick start, but it was okay. I think I needed patience which was the key. There's also Tetra safe start, and Dr. Tim's nitryfing bacteria, but all these vary if you look at reviews on different experiences.

https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500069473&sr=8-1&keywords=50w+heater

4.
Look up different bacterias like quick start, seachem stability, tetra safe-start, Dr Tim's Bacteria , and any of these should speed up and/or help your cycling process. I still add them when I do water changes as well.

5.
I originally added a betta running my tank 1 week thinking it was good, but didn't realize how long cycling can take. The problem with doing a fish cycle, is that you need a hardy fish to create ammonia to help start up the process. Some people think its not humane, since this can burn out the fish in bad waters. My original betta survived long enough and one week after it was finished cycling, he sank to the bottom (RIP Chiron).

Betta is apparently good for doing a fish cycle, since they use the air in the top of the water to breathe if the water is not cycled. Problem with this , it burns out their gills and can cause problems in the future with them . This is probably what happened to my original betta.

(As Bad as it sounds , I have a female betta in my 5 gallon I'm cycling right now and she looks worse everyday. I had to move her from the 10 gallon I had , because the other fish was picking her fins because she was a baby and still small. I'll have to see what happens next)

Maintenance :

1. 
   
   You can use sites like Aqadvisor.com and it will let you add the fish you have and the filter you have, along with the size. Choose 5Gallon and add the list of fish you have and it will tell you how many percentage is recommended depending on the stocking level you have. (This site is REALLY helpful , since lots of ppl online will say you're overstocking your tank all the time)
   
   2.
   Online instructions say:
   Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 US gallons)
   
   If you have a syringe it's easier.
   
   IF 5ml is for 50Gallons, then 1mL is for 10 Gallons. Then half of 1mL is 0.5 mL for 5 gallons .
   
   Whew that's a lot of information . Let me know if you have any questions . I've had my aquarium for about 4 months now and I've done a LOT of research , so these are all my test and trials for these things and I see that I would ask these same questions and would tell you from my experience and what I've learned.
   
   If you have any other questions about plastic ornaments, I would look into real wood/decorations for a more natural aquarium, but I'm bearly getting into this and is a lot more money, research , and work .

Vet student and cat lover here. Undersocialized kittens, kittens separated from their mom too early, and Bengals can all make challenging pets, so I'm not surprised you're having some trouble with that combination!

It sounds like your kitten has play aggression. Basically, he's bored and under-stimulated, and his pent-up energy is being directed towards you. Here's some information about play aggression from the SF SPCA, a well-respected behavior consultant, and VCA hospitals. I hope you'll find it useful!

My cat used to be play-aggressive, and here's what's worked for me:

• Lots and lots of play. Aim for at least two sessions of 10-15 minutes per day of active play, and try to wear him out!
  
  
• Try lots of toys! Kittens will have different preferences and may get bored over time, so switch things up. I'm giving some links of toys that, in my experience, cats go crazy over. They're not affiliate links, I don't work for the companies, and you can find them in pet stores as well: Cat catcher, Cat Charmer, Da Bird, and Cat Crazies A lot of cats also go crazy for foil balls and drinking straws if you throw them around. Try to have a variety of toys- wand toys, sparkle balls, bouncy balls, big catnip toys your kitten can kick, little catnip toys he can carry around, soft toys, plastic toys- you get the idea. If your cat is an ambush hunter, he may also like if you dangle a toy at one end of a cat tunnel so he can run through and grab it.
  
  
• Try to engage in play before you see any signs of playfulness or aggression, and definitely learn to recognize those signs and act on them! I've found that while redirecting with toys is the smart thing to do, at that point, it's usually too late.
  
  
• Cat tend to have a hunt-eat-groom-sleep cycle. Try to feed twice a day at regular times, and play for a bit first. Cats like being on a schedule.
  
  
• More cat trees and build/buy cat shelves if you're able!
  
  
• Wear shoes/boots in the house if you have to. Doing this saved my ankles, and I wonder if part of the reason he attacks you more than your BF is that you react more so it's more fun for him.
  
  
• Food puzzles! Here's a site with a ton of options, including super cheap or free/recycled ones.
  
  
• Look into clicker training! Good way to keep him physically and mentally occupied.
  
  I hope this helps! I realize I've just thrown a ton of info at you, and my main suggestion is to take just a couple little ideas and start incorporating them. Maybe find one toy he loves and use it twice a day, scatter his food over his cat tree or in an ice cube tray, and try to keep yourself covered so he can't hurt you.
  
  Also, definitely take him to the vet! I agree he can probably be neutered now or soon, it's always good to take new pets to the vet, and they may have behavior advice. Best of luck!

Cage basics: Wire cage for good air circulation. 1/2" bar spacing to prevent escapes of young rats and smaller adult females. 7 to 8 cubic feet or more for a pair of rats, add 2 cubic feet for each additional rat. Bigger is always better. Chew proof. Good size doors make cleaning a lot easier.

Single unit or double unit Critter Nation ($150 - $250): 11-22 cubic feet. These are huge cages that take up a lot of floor space. Very sturdy. Full doors make access super easy. Shallow pans can be chewed and aren't deep enough to hold a loose substrate bedding like wood shavings (modifications possible, though). The single unit cage is a good size for 2 to 5 rats if the space is well used, the double unit is good for 2 to 10 rats if the space is well used. Dollar for dollar, Critter Nation cages give you the most footage.

Martin's Cages ($121 - $160 + shipping): 7.5-11.25 cubic feet. This small company has several models available but the only ones that are really suitable for permanent housing are the R-680 and larger. These lightweight cages are easy to transport or to carry to the bathroom or the backyard on cleaning day. Nice chew-proof tray that's deep enough to keep a good layer of bedding. Very large doors. Martin's cages need to be purchased with powder coating to prevent them from absorbing urine/odors. Shipping is very expensive and adds a lot to the overall cost of the cage so call or email for a quote. The R-680 or R-685 are good for a pair of rats, the R-695 is good for up to 4 or 5 rats.

Rat Starter Kit / Kaytee Exotics cage ($100): 9 cubic feet. These cages are essentially identical. Not bad cages for 2 to 3 rats. Some rats figure out that they can chew through the plastic base so they don't work for everyone.

Large MCage ($60): 7.5 cubic feet. I would definitely recommend getting the larger version of this cage (not the 24x16x24 size). The size of the large version is 18x30x24 and it's only about $12 more. I would not recommend the small version (24x16x24) of this cage for rats. This cage comes in a couple sizes but the larger one is only $7 more so it's a no brainer. The wire grated floor should be removed and the pull-out tray may need to be locked into place somehow. This is a budget cage but not bad for the money.

There are lots of other good cages on the market and you can sometimes find good deals on used cages. Watch out for size (7+ cubic feet) and bar spacing (1/2" or less) and be careful of condition if you're purchasing used. If you find a cage that you're interested but you want opinions, make a post on this sub and I'm sure you'll get some good advice.

I’ve bought my kitten this (I forget how to link on mobile so sorry for the ugly link) and of course it’s the cheapest toy I’ve bought, but he will play with this until he’s panting, go eat, come back and play over and over.

You can also kinda DIY some toys. My older cat (5 years) hates anything and everything I buy for her. I bought a bungee mouse toy you can hang on doors and stuff, and tied a long ribbon through the ring. She will play with that forever. (Also linked)

The one they both agree is with the Yeowww catnip banana. They go absolutely bonkers for it. (Linked)

Some also love little chirpy toys. You can find plenty on strings, or little strong free ones (linked).

Go to town with feathers, bells, and whatnot to figure out what your kitty likes!

Crinkle balls are also a hit with both. They love the sound and it’s their jam. My youngest will play with them for hours. Be careful of which brand you buy of these though, some people have issues with the dye.

If you don’t want’em scratching on anything, try getting a couple scratching posts and place them near where they scratch the walls or whatever else. They also love being up high, so a cat tree is always great! Preferably near windows since most cats enjoy looking outside.

Cheap toy: Cat Dancer 101 Cat Dancer Interactive Cat Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N9I68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_R7yTBbDYBC4T8

Mouse bungee toy: SmartyKat Bouncy Mouse Cat Toy Bungee Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FK62YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2.yTBb1ECB06G

Catnip Banana: Yeowww! Catnip Toy, Yellow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AUJFHE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Crinkle balls: 12 Mylar Crinkle Balls for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVY88VR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Chirpy toy: Your pet will love this Pet Zone Play-N-Squeak Backyard Squeaking Raccoon Cat Toy: https://app.chewy.com/pEfewDgnJQ

Oh man, limited exercise makes everything harder. Sorry, I overlooked that part. On the upside, keep in mind things are going to get much easier when he can exercise. It's also possible that he doesn't feel great because of the heartworm treatment...if that's the case then things will also get easier once he's feeling more comfortable.

How much is he allowed to move around? I assume running and long walks are out.

What about sniffing around outside (slowly, not covering any distance)? Even if he can't run and play, spending as much time outside as feasible will help, especially if it's on a regular schedule. For one thing, the time he spends outside is time not spent getting into trouble. More importantly though, smelling stuff will exercise his mind and help him de-stress. Scheduled indoor and outdoor time will help quell some of the anxiety--anxious dogs thrive on strict schedules.

Or, is walking around inside okay? My dogs will walk around pushing puzzle balls (e.g. JW treat ball) for as long as it takes to get the treats out. Just...start with kibble rather than something bigger or more enticing, so he doesn't get frustrated and chew through it.

>We do a lot of frozen Kongs and mind games like "find it". He has fun with those and it does seem to tire him out a little. Unfortunately most other chews/toys/puzzle toys we have tried with him, he has chewed up in about 20 minutes.

That's a great way to tire him out and release some stress. Especially since he's proven to be a chewer/destroyer inside, I'd keep a steady stream of chewables coming for him to focus on. Very smart move.

Frozen kongs are great. Sometimes if you get a kong that's slightly too large for the dog (so his tongue can't reach all the way to the back) and wedge big biscuits in there along with the mush before freezing, they last longer.

Tug a jug is also fun, a bit more of a puzzle than a kong but still relatively sturdy. If the rope gets lost (read: destroyed) you can put a ball inside instead to keep the treats from falling out too easily.

For duration, nothing beats bones. My dogs will spend four hours working on raw beef marrow bones. Just, stick with fresh raw bones so they don't splinter. I've heard good things about deer antlers as well, but they cost more and my dogs don't care for them. Maybe you would have better luck with them than I did though.

And of course, nylabones are a classic. The big monster ones are pretty durable. e.g. http://www.indestructibledog.com/collections/chew-toys/products/dura-chew-monster-bone (<--that site is fantastic for chewers, btw)

>Perhaps tethering him so he doesn't do things that get him in trouble will give him the confidence to feel happy in our home and not feel the need to do these destructive things. Or, like you put it, "set him up to succeed". Right now we're really just expecting him to be good with all these distractions around then getting upset with him when he gets into them....

Well said.

>He had diarrhea and couldn't keep much food down.

Is that better now?

>I know some people won't approve, but we started him on Prozac last week.

If he's this anxious and you haven't been able to help him despite your best efforts, and if your vet recommends it, I don't think anyone has any right to judge. Let's hope it helps, along with the training and management you're working on.

OK, so here's one problem - you are not going to get accurate results with test strips. But, I don't know what your finance situation is, so maybe you need to use them for now and anything is certainly better than nothing. If you have a few bucks to spend, get a test kit like this one, which will test much of what you want to know about except water hardness, but this one does that.

Your nitrates aren't bad. Before we talk about things to try, I have to say the following: if you change more than one thing at a time you will never know what's working and what isn't. Try one change at a time, give each change two or three days to make a difference, keep a written record with dates (and time, if you're obsessive like me), and don't just write down what you change. Try to include things you observe, and try to take cell phone pics so you can accurately measure change. Be patient, observe the tank daily, be patient, and try to be patient.

An 8 hour split may be too much with the Nicrew, but it really isn't way overboard. I do a 7 hour split but I have no experience with Nicrews, I have two Finnex Planteds and a BeamsWork, and I don't know when you changed to the Nicrew and your 8 hour regimen. You could try a blackout for a few days, and then back to your current regimen.

If your light is sitting atop your tank you can try raising it a bit. A 10 gallon is what? 12 inches tall? You can jerry rig something to raise the light, or you can get something like this, or you can hang the light from the ceiling with fishing line. If you have aquascaping tweezers you can pull algae out manually, or you can use a toothbrush; not to brush the leaves, but to grab the algae in the bristles and pull it out. I've tried all of these things in different tanks, with good results. I've also used Seachem Excel, but only once or twice a week, not daily as the directions say. It definitely helps, but it isn't a cure and it only kills the algae, like the Algaefix you are already using. If you use Excel, wash your hands afterward. There are some scary and, to my mind not very scholarly, articles on the web about the chemical used in Excel, which Seachem claims is a different isomer than what it actually uses. But wash your hands afterward anyway - it's a simple precaution. Keep this in mind: if you use either one, it will make it harder to tell if the other things you are doing are having any effect. So, maybe bite the bullet for a couple weeks to try the other things, and if you start making headway you can use just a bit of the Algaefix or Excel to help push things along.

You should also consider how heavily planted your tank is. More plant load is better to out-compete the algae. If you have a lot of plants, you also want to provide them with nutrients or the light is next to useless. A good way to increase the plant load inexpensively and relatively fast is floaters. Check the AquaSwap forum here on reddit - /r/AquaSwap/, but keep in mind that you cannot be certain that you will not get snails with the plants, even if the seller claims the plants are dipped before shipping. Snails are not a bad thing, and would probably be helpful for you. Another inexpensive way to beat algae! And, if they get out of hand you just stick a stainless steel fork in a hunk of cucumber, put it in the tank for about two hours, grab a zip-loc baggie and hold it in the tank, grab the fork, put the cucumber and snails in the bag, pull the fork out of the cucumber, and close the bag. Into the garbage with it. It will be covered with snails.

Getting back to the floaters, they will suck up nitrates, provide shade for your anubias, and you'll be pulling handfuls out of the tank in no time (into the garbage! don't take a chance of letting them into the wild by throwing them in your yard). You can keep the floaters corralled with clear air line tubing and suction cups. Make sure the diameter matches, like these do. Cut a length of hose, heat near one end while holding the end so you can pull it until it comes off, leaving a pointy end that you can now stick into the other end of your length of hose, creating a circle. I use the silicon repair stuff to "glue" it together. This guy shows you a better way to do it, in his second video in the series at 2:45. But if you want to get motivated for your algae war, watch the entire series. You will never be the same. And after that, go learn here.

There are a lot more things you can do, but maybe start with these and keep reading about this stuff whenever you get a chance. Good Luck, and let us know how you make out.

I don't know if it's different in Hawaii, but in most states a 5 gallon tank is like $13, and a 10 gallon is the same price. Used 10 gallons tanks are typically $10 or less, and petco/petsmart both do a "dollar per gallon sale" pretty often where brand new 10 gallon tanks are $10.

If that's still a pinch, you can use a plastic bin that holds a simiilar amount of water for like $5 or less. It wont look as pretty but it will keep him healthy until a tank is affordable.

As for heaters, here's a really cheap one that I've used!

Filters can be really cheap as well, especially sponge filters. This one is only $3 and would be great in a betta tank. Since it's a sponge filter, you also need an air pump, but those are cheap too. This one is like $6, you could probably do some googling around and find even cheaper ones though. You'll also need some airline tubing, which is pretty cheap as well, here's some that is $3 and way more that you need.

I've had my share of money troubles, so I know a lot of ways to make keeping a fish healthy a lot cheaper. If you get the filter and heater I recommended, it'll only cost $20.84 (plus tax and maybe some shipping costs). And then the tank or plastic bucket/bin or something will be another ~$10. So that doesn't seem too unreasonable. If you can't afford that all at once, the bigger tank should be top priority, along with the filter. The heater is also very important, but less so than the filter and the bigger tank.

If you can't get ANYTHING at all yet, in the meantime you'll need to be doing daily water changes (at least 50% of the water or more) to keep the ammonia down and safe for him. Make sure you're only changing the water with new conditioned water, not tap water. The chlorine in tap water is toxic.

One last thing, check your local craigslist listings too! I know Hawaii tends to be a bit more expensive than around here, but sometimes you can find REALLY good deals on used fish stuff compared to buying it new. That's always a good option on a budget.

Hopefully this helped a little bit!

I got the Marineland 5 Gallon Portrait off of amazon, I love it. It's on sale right now for $41 and comes with everything you need except for a heater, thermometer (It *MIGHT* have come with a stick on the glass thermometer, I can't remember, but I don't think it did) and of course accessories like substrate/plants. I did have to remove the pump and turn the flow all the way down, as it comes cranked all the way up, and I made a baffle out of a water bottle to redirect the water flow a little so it doesn't blow him all over the tank. It's easy to play with the outflow and get it where you want it to be. It also has a little notch built in for your heater cord, which is nice, because there is not a lot of room to run cords thru where the covers are. The instructions say not to place the heater in the filter compartment, but I have read of many people doing it without issue, I haven't tried it because I'm scared lol, but it would definitely be more aesthetically pleasing that way. It is literally the perfect betta tank with a few modifications. I love the lid, everything fits nice and tight, no worrying about jumping out, or even snails escaping. If you have a cat that might be inclined to step on top of the lid... it's not going anywhere at all, so thats a big plus for some folks. The filter and pump is all tucked into a compartment in the back so you don't see any of it. Plenty of room to add more biological media. The light is adequate as well, very bright. I have seen videos of people modifying the filter set up, theres plenty of room in there to make modifications. Here is a video about the tank from Aquarium Co-Op on youtube. If i remember correctly he shows you the modifications he made to it. I really do love it, and my fish has been very happy in it!

​

If you decide to get plants... be careful buying them at the store. I spent way too much on plants at the store that weren't in the greatest condition (granted I was buying for a 40 gallon and a 10 gallon as well and you won't have to spend much to fill a 5 gallon), they were about the same price online, and arrived MUCH healthier than the ones in the store were. I ordered a low light bundle off of amazon and was pleased with it. I also find that by buying at the store, I have no idea what the hell I'm looking at/for because I am a noob. That is why I bought bundles of plants that someone else pre-picked to work in a low light tank lol. I have also shopped eBay, you can get buy 2 get 1 free on a lot of plants, and the sellers are incredibly helpful!! Here is a nano aquarium bundle on amazon, I don't think you could buy these in store for less than that price either! The description says " This is a live plant bundle for smaller/nano aquariums or betta tanks.The plants do not need any special fertilizers or CO2, just enough light from an aquarium lamp to thrive. All plants are smaller and none are taller than 6". The plants in this bundle includes a Rosette sword, Marimo Moss Ball, Cryptocoryne Parva, Lobelia Cardinalis, Micro-Swords, Anubias Nana. "

​

It is more expensive than gravel, but I would look into Fluval Stratum or the Seachem Black for your substrate if you do real plants. Someone with more experience please correct me if I am wrong on any of this!!

​

I hope that helped some, all just my opinion based on what I've experienced/learned thus far with my 5 gallon & plants. I am a noob to planted tanks, but I really wanted to get away from plastic plants since they can hurt fins. I am still learning, so I am sorry if I gave you any misinformation!

I marked things with a [w] if they're on my WL!

1. Something that is grey. China Glaze Polish Ecollection Recycle [w]
   
   
2. Something reminiscent of rain. Hehe, a watering can [w]
   
   
3. Something food related that is unusual. Miracle Noodles - they're these weird low-carb noodles [w]
   
   
4. Something on your list that is for someone other than yourself. Tell me who it's for and why. (Yes, pets count!) LARPing Book for my friend Dennis. His is missing several pages, which is very frustrating to him. He's endlessly dear to me. [w]
   
   
5. A book I should read! I am an avid reader, so take your best shot and tell me why I need to read it! Other People's Love Letters - doesn't that just sound romantic? :D [w]
   
   
6. An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping... that is not jewelry, nail polish, and or hair related! Mickey Mouse Cookies!
   
   
7. Something related to cats. I love cats! (keep this SFW, you know who you are...) SmartCat [w]
   
   
8. Something that is not useful, but so beautiful you must have it. Triple heart necklace <3 [w]
   
   
9. A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life. Why? Love Me If You Dare. Everyone should have more French film in their lives. It's a beautiful, artistic, funny, romantic movie. The main characters are hot.
   
   
10. Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. Explain. Cast Iron is heavy! [w]
    
    
11. Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals. For exercise, way easier on my knees than the treadmill [w]
    
    
12. One of those pesky Add-On items. Awesome fabric softener - and I really want it, too! [w]
    
    
13. The most expensive thing on your list. Your dream item. Why? A Roomba. I have pets. I need to vacuum more often. I'm lazy. Also he would be my robot butler friend. I'd name him Alfred or Jeeves or Pennyworth. My cats would be afraid of him. [w]
    
    
14. Something bigger than a bread box. A mattress is quite a bit bigger! [w]
    
    
15. Something smaller than a golf ball. Pearl earrings [w]
    
    
16. Something that smells wonderful. Lilac and Lilies! [w]
    
    
17. A (SFW) toy. Cat toy! [w]
    
    
18. Something that would be helpful for going back to school. Chromebook! It's actually for when my husband starts college. [w]
    
    
19. Something related to your current obsession, whatever that may be. Filter for my new fishtank! [w]
    
    
20. Something that is just so amazing and awe-inspiring that I simply must see it. Explain why it is so grand. Electric bike so, my comment on this is: “Theoretically I would like to bike. Realistically I'd like to bike, except up hills. Oh, here we are!”. Right?! Also what they sell electric bikes on Amazon? Damn! [w]
    
    Bonus:
    
    Oregon Chai!

If a fish is inactive, it usually means they don't have enough room to swim around and explore. 5 gallons is beautiful for a betta, you should do a 5 gallon with live plants, it's beautiful to look at! If you're concerned about price as well, here are some good options:

• Petco has 5 gallon Aqueon tanks for sale for ~$16 dollars.
  
• A good filter to use for these would be the Aqueon Quietflow Internal Filter AT10. I use one of these in a 1.5 gallon hospital tank, but the gph is good for up to 5 gallons. And it's only $15!
  
• You can use anything for a tank lid, but if cost is an issue, these guys work great, ~$7.
  
• A good, inexpensive heater is the Hydor 25 watt heater. ~15 bucks and from what I've heard (I'm getting one tomorrow for my new Spec V so I'll update if anything goes wrong) it's amazing.
  
• You can use any substrate that supports plant life, but I personally use Eco-Complete Plant Substrate. It's around $20 for a 20 lb. bag, so it's a pretty good deal as well.
  
• Plants in general can be quite inexpensive. If you just buy a couple of Anubias (the large variety) and some java ferns, maybe some Anacharis to float or bunch, you're looking at ~$34 dollars (give or take) for the entirety of your tank's plants.
  
  All in all, you're looking at ~$107 for a better tank for your fish, or ~$53 for just the basic set up (minus the live plants/plant supporting substrate). If you want lighting, I've heard that basic desk lamps like this one work great in lieu of expensive LED setups.
  
  OR
  
  You can buy a Fluval Spec V, they're on sale for $59.99 and come with a filter, lighting, lid, etc. All you would need is substrate and a heater.
  
  Let me know if you have any questions!

You have tons of people already going at you with the "just go for the 5 gallon" so I won't bother with that (2.5 gallon is still perfectly acceptable. I have a 1.5 gallon with a happy betta). Anyways, for filter you have a few options. I've used all of these filters as well.

Finnex Pure-5 Power Filter: https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Pure-5-Power-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004NP66M4

One of the very best filters for small set ups. A definite feature you'll love is the adjustable flow it has. Make sure to baffle it up if necessary. I personally use this one the most in my tanks.

AZOO Mignon Filter 60: https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO

An amazing filter that is very quiet and very powerful. Comes with a pre filter as well so your betta's fin will be super safe. Baffle it up though since it is quite powerful but it's also adjustable.

Fluval Nano Filter: https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A455-Nano-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004BZKDZC

This one is for when you do get a 5 gallon or bigger. This one is an amazing filter if you are willing to do some DIY on it. One of the major problems is the impeller is sometimes loose in some units and you'll have to wrap some teflon tape on it. If this bothers you, I'd skip this one but this is seriously a great filter.

Another option for filters is a sponge filter which is always cheap and readily available/easily made.

For heaters, you have a few options as well but I'll just list the ones I usually use. NOTE: I personally buy new heaters every year because the possibility of overheating still exists.

Tetra HT-50: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q

Don't let the 50 watt scare you because this one is probably one of the best and trusted non-adjustable heater. It is non-adjustable though so it will keep it at around 24-26°C.

Hydor Original Theo: https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8

One of the most trusted adjustable heaters. Useful for when you need to raise the temperature of your water. I haven't really used this one as much as the Tetra one but it does the job for me.

XiLong Heater: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Heater-Fish-Tank-Adjustable-25-50-100-200-300-Pretty-Aquarium-Submersible-/261412637763

This one may seem like a sketchy buy but I honestly prefer it over the Hydor Original Theo. I use this for my 5 gallon and it keeps the temperature very very stable. Cheap as hell too.

Hey there!

Since space is a concern, I'd highly recommend starting with a fish who prefers to live alone. The humble betta fish is very hardy.

You could get away with a three gallon tank, but your fish would be much happier in something with 5 gallons. The 5 gallon cube tanks do not take up much space and would be perfect! There's actually some concern within the hobby that bowls may stress fish out because of the shape, so it's not just a size thing.

I would not count on an external radiator to keep your fish comfortable. a 25-50 watt heater isn't terribly expensive and would do a much better job of keeping it consistent. Fish are cold-blooded animals, and sudden swings in temperature that we might not even notice because our bodies regulate our temperature internally could be lethal to your finned friend.

So. I'd recommend starting with a 5 gallon aquarium This one is a little pricy but it comes with a light and a filter, so all you'd need is the heater and whatever you want to decorate the tank with. You will also need a good water conditioner. I like Seachem Prime.

Look up the nitrogen cycle. I would highly recommend cycling your tank before the fish goes in. If you do fish-out cycling, you could realistically get it done in about a month, especially if you use a substrate like Eco Earth.

Lastly, give your fish friend some places to hide. And plants! Easy live plants to keep are anubias and swords, and they will help keep your water tidy in between changes.

Hi!!!! I'm PBG and not a lot of people know that I was supposed to be a twin! I guess there were two embryos, but the other one stopped developing after the first trimester. Thank God, right?

I love love love my cats and I think they would love this sunny seat window cat bed thing. Ezra loves to sit in the sun and I bet he would just love it =)

Moving tanks is easy if you have a plan, and lots of buckets/totes and water.

There is lots of advice out there, you should probably just read all of it and decide what seems best for you:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-dos-and-donts-of-moving-with-a-saltwater-tank.83072/

https://www.petcha.com/how-to-move-your-reef-aquarium/

With 3 tanks it might require more home depot buckets than I needed, but it's always helpful to have more FISH ONLY (with label) buckets.

Some cheap heaters and a multi-stone air stone pump will turn the buckets into stable mini tanks, and you can get the livestock out of the tanks and into buckets with clean tank water with a bit of new water, then they will be fine while you disassemble the tank. Since you probably aren't going far you should be okay without running the heat/air while in transit, but having buckets with life support in them means you won't need to worry about fishes while you are doing tear down/setup.

Put some water in totes, or whatever it seems will work best to hold the various live rock formations. Put rock without corals on the bottom, maybe get a blue LED flashlight because it will make finding corals easier when it comes to put the rocks back together if you have soft corals / mushrooms that will probably retract while in transit. You should probably "piss off" corals like acans/euphyllia with by swishing in the water or gentle powerhead blasts, so that when you pull them out of the water they aren't so full of water that it damages the flesh from the weight of the tentacles/etc. Definitely submerge any super valuable corals, but most corals can deal with being out of the water for short periods of time, especially if you put some paper towels over them and occasionally pour some saltwater over top.

Make a bunch of water, then make some more! Maximum heaters in your saltwater mixing bucket! Getting enough warm saltwater water to fill the system again was the main reason we didn't finish the "move" until about 4am, after starting around 6pm.

Run fresh carbon once you get it running again to help get rid of stress toxins released during the move.

Yep, normal kitten behavior. My cat was like that until he was about a year or so old, then he was still like that but in shorter and shorter spurts. It can be both adorable and frustrating at once! (Especially at night!).

Redirection like someone mentioned does help a lot. The spray bottle never worked with my cat. He just figured out that if I didn't have the spray bottle in my hand he had X amount of time to misbehave and run. I also found that attention worked a lot too. Like making sure you spend a fair amount of itme playing and tiring them out!

My cat had a ton of toys to play with,, which kept him occupied. Simpler tended to be better -- small plastic balls to bat around were probably his favorite. The other thing he LOVED was http://www.amazon.com/Cat-Dancer-101-Interactive-Toy/dp/B0006N9I68 Its a cheap toy. Nothing to it, but its a stiff wire and when he batted at it, it owuld move in an erratic fashion (like a bug). So that would be something he'd do to entertain himself all the time.

Good luck!

Finally at work so I can give some links, lol

Here's a cheap sponge filter, I love these for bettas because they have a gentle flow and no mechanical intake for the betta to get sucked into. The bacteria will live in the sponges so make sure to never clean them with tap water or else you'll kill them! You'll also need an air pump and some airline tubing to get the filter going. I've used all of these and it's a pretty simple and cheap setup.

To actually measure the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels, you'll need a test kit. I know some people and stores use strips, but they are hilariously inaccurate. You can have levels of 70+ ppm of nitrate (which is usually deadly) and the strips will tell you that you have 0 ppm. The liquid kit also lasts a lot longer! Your tank is cycled when ammonia is at 0 ppm, nitrites are at 0 pmm, and nitrates are at 0-20 ppm.

To make it easier to clean his tank, you can use a siphon. It sucks up the water for you, all you need is a bucket/tub to catch it in. Makes cleaning a lot less hectic!

Just a side note, Betta are actually tropical (and cold-blooded fish), so they need a heater. This is good for a 10 gal, it's what I use :) You can also get a glass or electronic thermometer to make sure the water is staying at the recommended 78-80 F. If you already have a water conditioner this is optional but Seachem Prime is what I use as it binds and neutralizes low levels of ammonia.

Here's the sub caresheet/wiki, and here's a guide to fish-in cycling (which basically just means cycling the tank with a fish already inside). I know this is a lot of info/expenses all at once but if you ever have any questions you're always free to PM me! I'm happy to help to the best of my ability. I'd recommend getting him a 5 gal or bigger ASAP, and with clean warm water his fins will be healing in no time :)

I've bought a ton of toys for our kitten in the last few months, but these are his absolute favorites: Bergan Turbo Scratcher, a crinkle tube like this one, Cat Dancer, and the Go Cat mouse on a string toy. With the Go Cat mouse toy especially, he definitely lets you know he loves that toy. It's the only one he never ignores and the only one he will pick up in his mouth and carry to his "den" like it's real prey.

We also got him a fluffy mouse puppet that he loves to wrestle with. I might just be projecting, but it seems like it kind of makes up for the lack of another furry companion to play with. Bonus points: it lets you play hands-on without getting your hands scratched up.

The bitter apple spray doesn't seem to deter our cat much, but liberal application of Sticky Paws (double sided tape) and taping loose cords to the wall helps keep him away from scratching and biting things he shouldn't be messing with.

Also, if you have house plants, look them up to make sure they aren't toxic to cats. The kitten's interest in chewing on plants may vary, of course, but ours loves chewing and climbing on plants. The ASPCA has the most comprehensive list of plants that are toxic to pets.

Former veterinary nurse here. Everything you said is on point. As far as regular kitty maintenance, I cannot recommend a Litter Genie enough. It's definitely sold me on the concept, and if I ever have any babies, I'll definitely get one for them.

I will say though that timed feedings are a great idea if your cat will tolerate it, mostly because you end up knowing exactly how much kitty is eating. One of the first things to go when a cat is feeling unwell is their appetite, and they're notorious for masking symptoms until it's gotten bad. My sister has a cat in end-stage FIV right now for that very reason.

Oh, OP, by the way? If kitty is going to go outside AT ALL, you MUST do two things: parasite prevention and a microchip/FIV vaccine combo. Revolution is my personal favorite parasite prevention, as it's a monthly does and handles heartworms (yes, cats can get them), fleas, ticks, and most intestinal parasites. You have a ton of options, though. As for the FIV vaccine... Feline immunodeficiency virus behaves similarly to HIV/AIDS in humans. It's passed on through saliva, usually from deep bite wounds, as opposed to sharing a water bowl, but there is still some risk there. (This is probably how my sister's cat acquired the infection, as she spends a lot of time outside and has an ultra-nemesis cat that lives nearby.) The vaccine is effective, but it can cause a false positive result on a blood test. The only real solution is to have your kitty microchipped, which IMHO is something all kitties should have done. Here's the imaginary scenario which plays out all too often: Kitty is vaccinated for FIV but doesn't have a chip, gets picked up by animal control, get tested for FIV, and shows a false positive. Any cat that comes in the door with a positive FIV result is likely to be euthanized. However, the first thing anyone does these days is check for a microchip. If it's established that this cat has an owner, the medical workup will continue, but they can't just euthanize your cat anymore. It sucks and it sounds harsh, but it's the same thing as a puppy coming in with parvovirus.

As far as the rest of basic kitty care, a water fountain is definitely an excellent idea. We have one for our two cats and they L O V E it. It's cute and didn't cost very much, either. Here's a link: Catit Flower Fountain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146QXOB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MWVmzbNH28CMW

This sounds ridiculous, but my cats learned to love their scratching posts because we would scratch them together. If one of them ever started to scratch the furniture, I'd go over to the Correct Scratcher™ and mimic scratching it, and they'd go bonkers running over to do it with me. It's pretty cute, tbh.

These are all budget friendly:

I don't know what you are using now, but I had Nicrews on my 10s, and I thought the same thing re lighting, so I went for this Full Spectrum, but I have to be honest, I think it's a little dim for anything other than floating plants. It was $29. I'd skip it. This one is on my 29, the 24 inch one. And as that's a deeper tank, it is actually pretty good. But, I believe the plants in here are easy low light, Java Ferns, some Vals, some Sag, some Pogostemon 'octopus' stellatus.

Of all the lights this one actually to me seems the brightest, even though the one I have is the little 11 inch one, perfect for my little 2.5 gallons, almost too bright. While I don't have the larger one of this brand, I think I'd recommend it for the plants, it's only $20 on Amazon. My plants grow gangbusters with it.

If not, the Nicrew would probably be fine if you don't have floating plants that block light. It's like $18.

If, however, you decide to spend more, I have a Current, which for me is High Light lol! I think it's 26 inches. But, I got it for free, and I think they are like $100 give or take.

There are many things you can try, and ultimately it’s just the more responsible cat guardian to do. Most people think cats like to sleep all day, but my 45years of cat parent experience definitely shows otherwise. Cats will sleep if they have nothing else to do, but the two main things your cat is going to need are 1. Stimulation and play and 2. Territory.

Outdoor cats have established territory, it will take a while for your cat to adjust, so be prepared for many attempted jail breaks. A tall baby gate at the door may help, you can get a 48inch gate on amazon.

Secondly, your cat needs attention and distraction- but a couple of cat wands, one with a feather twirly at the end and one with a deer hair mouse - every cat I have ever known love these:

GoCat Da Bird Rod and Feather Cat Toy, Handmade in The USA (1 Bird) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BOVEU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5zHZDb58EY5F7

Go Cat Cat Catcher Teaser Wand with Mouse Cat Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LAHZDbYVCB38S

But what ever it’s your cat likes, work towards 10 solid hunting minutes in the morning and again at night. Use the cats favorite toy to distract when they want to go out.

Finally- there is an amazing calming product called “licks”. If your cat starts howling, you squeeze the packet on their front arm, work it into the Fur, they lick it off and it was better for calming my cat than Prozac.

Licks - Cat Zen - Calming Aid and Stress Management- Tryptophan, L-Theanine, Eleuthero Root, and Ashwagandha Root - LiquiPaks - 30 Use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SLBMLR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4CHZDbM1TA9DC

Good luck!!!

It's very kind of you to not just let him die! If you get him spiffed up you may be able to find someone who likes fish to take him in, so you don't end up feeling burdened...

but in the meanwhile, there is some basic stuff you can do. If your measurements are correct, then he's probably in a 2 1/2 or 3 gallon aquarium, which while not the best, will certainly suffice. This means the main things you'll need are a filter and a heater.

It would also be nice if you got him some stuff to hide in, so he doesn't stress. They make aquarium decorations, but a clean, well rinsed ceramic coffee mug or unpainted terra cotta planter will do the trick for cheap.

By the way, can you post the name of the water conditioner that you found in the tube? It will help me be able to figure out if it's a dechlorinator or not, which is the most important thing.

Also, does the tank have a lid? Bettas will jump out of water, especially if the water quality is bad.

Anyway, there is plenty of inexpsensive, decent equipment for a tank that size:

I personally happen to like this filter for a tank that size, and it's very easy to install/maintain.

Here's a nice little heater that's worked very well for me. You'd want to maintain his water between 75 and 80 degrees, so it's always a good idea to have a thermometer to make sure the heater is doing its job properly.

From there, maintenance is pretty easy. Feed him just 3 or so of those little food pebbles a day, and once a week give him some of the bloodworms for variety. The main thing is to not overfeed, because they have very small tummies.

Once a week, change out about 25% of his water, and rinse out your filter pads with old aquarium water if they need it. They make little syphons especially for this, because the suction they create helps you vacuum poo out of the substrate.

Wow my heart broke and also grew reading all this. Thank you so much for giving Pepe Le Pew (loved his name!) such a happy life. Roland sounds like he’s very happy with you and I’m so glad to hear he’s got such a loving parent! It takes a beautiful heart to want to do what you’re doing, and I think it’s just amazing. My condolences again friend.

If you don’t mind me asking, how do your cats drink water? I learned that cats don’t drink water often like dogs, and to help prevent kidney issues it’s recommended to get a cat fountain. They are pretty cheap, and I have noticed my cats drink SO MUCH more water now. You can find the one I use here

I don't think I've been "formally" introduced to you lovely people even though I've seen some of your contests going on here before ;)

For gift one: Either [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Neff-Womens-Cupcake-Beanie-Velvet/dp/B005HSWZNK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=39B8AKCSDRT5J&coliid=I1UFRCZ07903KE&psc=1) or [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Ticket-Stub-Diary-Eric-Epstein/dp/1452114226/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1NPR8WP3XYH58&coliid=IXBG9Y68EXA72) both I've been wanting for a long time because I saw that hat on a little girl at the school I used to work for and have been obsessed but can't find it anywhere, and I collect tickets from everything I go to... so having a way to organize them would be awesome!

For gift 2: Also decently under $20 is [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Kyjen-Tail-Teaser-Dog-Refill/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2IR97ZBE8XCJR&coliid=I27I9XMHLTKH2U) which I would absolutely love because I just moved (again) and need to spend more time with my pups!

So c'mon...gimme something good! :b

(I don't know you, but I love you, you wonderful and beautiful people, you!)

First, I suggest listening to the vet :) Kittens grow quickly and are quite active so they need more calories per pound that an adult cat. If your vet thinks he'll grow into it, he probably will.

There are a few ways to tell if your cat's weight is appropriate for his size. You can apparently tell by feeling his ribs or the base of his tail to see how easy it is to feel bones. This seems like a pretty solid resource. I've had trouble with this method since I thought my cat was fine, but turns out she was just a bit overweight.

My cat is pretty much as grown as she'll be. So now I weigh her, which seems much more precise to me. It's tough to get your cat on a scale, but an easy way to do it is to pick him up and hold him while you're on the scale, and then weigh yourself alone and note the difference. It's not quite as exact as a scale made for cats, but it's got the benefits that 1) Your cat is more likely to sit still in your arms for a few seconds than in a scale you put him in every so often 2) it doesn't cost you any more money. It should be accurate enough for the purposes of monitoring weight changes as they can change by as much as 1lb without you noticing otherwise. It doesn't seem like a lot to a person, but for a cat 1lb can be a lot!

It's good that you're getting your cat on quality food. Again, as a kitten, personally I would not worry so much about the feeding pattern as long as it's consistent and he's getting what he needs. If you have a strong bond and he's vocal, there's a good chance he's going to whine for food a lot anyway (my cat makes the most pathetic sounds nearing feeding time, but she's perfectly healthy). I fed my cat 3 times a day as a kitten but now that she's grown she gets fed once in the morning and once in the evening. Unfortunately I can't leave any food for grazing since she'll just eat it all as soon as I fill the bowl.

Also, especially if you're feeding a lot of dry food, make sure you have water available for your cat and that he's drinking it. Cats naturally tend to get most of their water from their prey and have a low thirst drive. That doesn't exactly work when you're feeding them dry food so dehydration is a problem for some cats. They tend to like running water more than still water (you may notice he's interested by a running tap) so an inexpensive fountain like this one works for my cat.

Good luck, and I wish you and your new buddy a long healthy time together!

I don't have a website, but here's my experience:



food - it's pretty basic, but make sure you provide them with clean, fresh water every day. also (and this is just my personal opinion) try not to feed exclusively dry food. it is convenient, but is very high in carbohydrates (not good), whereas wet food has more fat and protein, and of course a lot more moisture! more moisture means less chances of your kitty getting a UTI or blockage, both of which are pretty bad. the very best thing you could do would be to feed only wet food, but that may not be possible as dry food can be more economical. also try to avoid by-products and grain IF possible. many brands will have a recommended feeding guide on their site or on the package so you'll have some idea of how much food your kitty needs.


play - cats have a reputation for being lazy, but they do require stimulation (some more than others)! try to play with them at least once or twice a day, even if it's just with a laser pointer or letting them stalk and chase a toy like this.


litter box - keep it clean, scoop it out at least once a day and dump all the old litter and replace it with fresh litter when it starts to get smelly (for us it's about once every two weeks). this will help prevent litter box avoidance.


affection - depends on the cat. some are super cuddly and want a lot of attention and petting, others not so much. one of my cats will ONLY want affection/cuddles in the morning, and typically ignores me for the rest of the day. the other chirps at me when she wants scritches or to get on my lap. ymmv.


other needs - kitties need to scratch! to save your furniture, get a couple of vertical and/or horizontal scratchers to place around your house. discourage them from scratching on furniture (a firm "NO!" will usually be enough of a deterrent) and if they still do, invest in some sticky tape. cats also like to climb and look down on their ~kingdom~, so a cat tree or at least a small perch is always a good investment.

ugh that was REALLY long, I'm sorry. if you have can, watch "My Cat From Hell" (it's on Netflix!). You'll learn a lot about cat needs and how they operate. Good luck and good for you for considering adoption!

So you have a filter on a 6 gallon tank that's rated for 68 gallons per hour. This is great filtration (I use an eheim that's rates for over 120 gallons that's running on a 5.5 gallon tank here temporarily). However I myself found that i HAD to control the filter flow.

If you live near a PETCO they may have the Fluval sponges on clearance for 70.cents if not less. don't pay more than 2 bucks for one. I found out my Local petco had a a whole bunch of them on clearance for 70 cents so i picked up close to 30. lol

These sponges look nice, and work well. What you do is fit it over the outflow of the filter. if you get a couple you can cut them to your needs and even use one as an internal filter sponge if your filters design will permit it.

Bettas are used to being in still water. you want the water to have a very very gentle flow, it will look almost still. There's a good chance hes fighting the current and cant get up to the top to breathe regularly.

You mentioned your Nitrates at around a 5? i would prep some water (chlorinate it, maybe let it sit over night) and do a 50% water change, do this about twice a week until your filter is balanced and your tank is fully cycled. if you are seeing high nitrate levels you might be on the tail end of that cycle which is good.

As for clamped fins. Once the previous measures have been taken and your beta appears to be regaining health and vigor (give him a week or so) You can do "betta exercise" which is essentially putting a mirror in front of the tank for about 5-10 minutes once or twice a week. don't do it consecutively, so maybe Monday and Friday or something like that. This causes them to flare their fins and fan them out. preventing clamping and helping their muscles that they use for the fins get some strength. Just be sure to watch him and take it away after the 5-10 minute period. if he is in bad shape right now i would just do 5 minutes for a while and see how that works out.

That's about all i can give right now based on the info provided. Make sure the tank is not near a heavy sun window or an air vent.

Hang in there man and good luck. I know what its like to lose pets. Its a major let down and you feel like you failed. I've been there and im sure ill be there again at some point. I lost alot of dwarf shrimp in my early experiences, it will pay off once you figure out the nuances.

Best of luck and feel free to PM me if you need more help.

I'll just give you my generalize copy/pasta I usually hand out in situations like these so if you wanna read it when you got a chance, then you have it! Also has tips and purchase links for Amazon as well for different axolotl stuffs.


HOW TO CYCLE:

1. Set up tank with clean conditioned water. 2. Add recommended amount of beneficial bacteria per label
   
   
2. Add "waste" to the tank, so a little bit of say fish flakes ( they're cheap and you need a waste source since you DO NOT put a fish or axolotl in a uncycled tank. The flakes are gonna break down into ammonia. The goal with cycling is to get benefical bacteria to build up so they can change (eat) the waste & breaks down the ammonia into nitrite then finally break it down further into nitrate. All these chemicals can hurt axolotl.
   
   
3. Test tank a couple days later with a testing kit ( avoid strips, they will lie to you and give false results) if there is ANY ammonia or nitrite present, you arent cycled. If there is no nitrate present either, you arent cycled.
   
   
4. If you find ammonia or nitrite, take 50% of the water out and add clean treated water. Add more seachem stability ( benefical bacteria) ( add these each time you change water. Even if it's cycled)
   
   
5. Add a pinch more flakes & Continue to do this until your tank is cycled. Meaning you have no ammonia, no nitrite and a presence of 40ppm or less of nitrate.
   
   
   
   Warnings:
   1.If your tank isn't cycled, you are going to chemical burn them with ammonia in the water. And they will suffer. Nitrate ( the final of the chemical process) can also burn the fish/axolotl. This is why we keep this number under 40ppm. If it is higher than 40ppm, change the water 75%.
   
   
6. This beneficial bacteria lives in the filter. If you change your filter, you just ruined your cycle. Don't do this. If it gets nasty/clogged & you have to replace the cartirage, leave the old cartirage in with the new one for a few days so the beneficial bacteria can inhabit the new filter. If you can avoid replacing that, just rinse/gently squeeze out the filter in old tank water when you do clean the tank to keep from murdering the bacteria
   
7. Letting the filter dry out will also kill a cycle.
   
8. 
   
   *NOTE: Most bottles of beneficial bacteria say they cycle a tank in a day. Cycling can take up to a month in some cases but usually just two weeks if you keep on it. This requires constantly monitoring, testing and replacing most of the water in the tank when you get high ammonia/nitrite levels. You need ammonia/nitrite to be 0 and nitrate to be more than 0. Definitely less <40. If all your levels are higher than this, or if nitrate remains 0, your tank isn't cycled.***
   
   
   Summery;
   So basically, cycling builds beneficial bacteria which makes these waste breakdown chemicals go through a cycle of breaking down into a less dangerous form which keeps fish/axolotl from getting sick/dying. ... Most new fish people don't do this. And fish store employees try & tell them just adding something like seachem stability fixes this. It doesn't. An uncycled tank is basically new tank syndrome and it kills animals.
   
   You still are going to need to keep an eye on chemical levels after the cycle..Occasionally different things can cause the cycle to "crash", like changing the filters or a high tempeture, or the filters becoming dry..
   
   Once your tank is cycled, and you have an axolotl, honestly it's not that much work. The cycles the worst part. I feed my adult axolotls once every other day, I change 75% of their water twice a month, and add water to top it off / spot clean occasionally two-three other times a month due to the water I lose due to evaporation.
   
   
   Stuff you'll need:
   
9. Air stone+ airline+ air pump ( cheap ones are at Walmart.
   
10. Seachem stability ( beneficial bacteria)
    
11. Seachem prime ( it's a water conditioner I just prefer seachem)
    
12. A tank, 10 gallon minimum for 1 axolotl. But the bigger the better.
    
13. A filter
    
14. Hides for the axolotl
    
15. A syphon / water vacuum ( to suck out the poo/change water easy. I have a long food grade plastic hose I got from Ace hardware. I syphon and let it drain into the yard
    
16. A bucket
    
17. A Tupperware
    
18. A fan. Literally any fan you can put on top the tank and point at it will work. I have a table fan sitting on top my tank and blowing at the water to help keep it cool. A chiller is best, but they are expensive.
    
19. A tank thermometer ( don't get the thermometer strips, they lie
    
20. A master fresh water test kit.
    
21. Worms or repashy or pellets
    
    
    
    Links:
    
22. Test kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000255NCI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784772&sr=8-2&keywords=master+freshwater+test+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51FQhbpfB0L&ref=plSrch
    
    
    
23. Fan suggestion
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001R1RXUG?aaxitk=NqgMhM9.r7.gAHICKezCoA&pd_rd_i=B001R1RXUG&pf_rd_p=0ef604ef-c787-43e9-9404-52a4ff25a95c&hsa_cr_id=8386596470601&sb-ci-n=asinImage&sb-ci-v=https%3A%2F%2Fimages-na.ssl-images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F71pMktGGyRL.jpg&sb-ci-a=B001R1RXUG
    
    
24. Tank thermometer
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQITK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784880&sr=8-5&keywords=tank+thermometer
    
    4.
    Air pump + line + stone.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073DWVX5P/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784937&sr=8-11&keywords=air+pump+for+aquarium&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2BcSpzfDgL&ref=plSrch
    
    
25. Filter ( basic the tank you have probably already has one)
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FUM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785038&sr=8-2&keywords=hob+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41Rr1kpTVOL&ref=plSrch
    
    
26. Shower poof ( hang these so they slow the flow of water coming out of filter. Axolotls don't like a lot of heavy water flow. Get these at the dollar store and rinse them before going in tank. You don't have to get these online. I'm just showing you)
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F88BMC8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785094&sr=8-3&keywords=shower+pouf
    
    
27. Seachem stuff
    Prime; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00025694O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785181&sr=8-1&keywords=seachem+prime&dpPl=1&dpID=41Q0rRc8NML&ref=plSrch
    
    Stablity:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002APIIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785210&sr=8-1&keywords=seachem+stability
    
    
28. Food
    Pellets:
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0787T25J1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785278&sr=8-1&keywords=axolotl+pellets
    
    Repashy:
    https://www.chewy.com/repashy-superfoods-meat-pie-gel/dp/166289?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Repashy%20Superfoods&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkfriBRD1ARIsAASKsQLQAXpk3WwGiCwRMr6OQmbfUXPIZutYnADrujltXxW1PPSVgYpPduEaAmAaEALw_wcB
    
    Ice cube trays for repashy( frozen is better. It's a jello. It will really trash your tank. So frozen is better):
    
    https://www.amazon.com/niceCube-Mini-Ice-Cube-Trays/dp/B01L7ZFBXW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785496&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mini+ice+cube+tray&psc=1
    
    
    
29. Hides. Here's a good example..I soemthing similar. Just go to the reptile section at your pet store. Get one that's not rough but smooth. Plastics a good option. Just rinse it well before you put it in tank
    https://www.arcatapet.com/m/item.cfm?cat=22600&source=GA-PLA00522600&fullsite=0
    
    
30. Water vacuum. This is what I have + I have a big long hose for big water changes. I use this to spot clean poo and "vacuum' it into a 10 gallon bucket
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011DDJZ9Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785739&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+vacuum
    
    Feeding tongs: They're actually tweezers for planting a planted fish tank. These can grip worms very well.. The Amazon ones that are silver suck and will make your life hell. Don't waste your money on ones on amazon unless you can find these on Amazon.
    
    https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/fish/feeding-accessories/fluval-straight-forceps

As someone that's gone thru the same scenario as you I'm going to give you some possible options you can take that will make things way easier on you. The initial investment may be on the higher side but it's the equivalent of a couple dinners and a movie for some high quality stuff that'll last a long time.

• You need 4 things for a happy Betta: A proper tank, a filter, a heater, and proper decorations.
  
  
• First, return that 1 gallon aquarium if possible. While Betta's don't need large tanks I'd recommend something at least 2.5+ gallons. The tank will stay cleaner longer and your fish will be more active.
  
  
• There are different quality aquariums. Look for something that's an all-in-one design (comes with filter and light) Personally I love Fluval, a company that sells all in one contained tanks that are high quality, run silent, and are well designed. For dorm life I'd recommend The Spec 3: https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-2-6-Gallon-Black/dp/B009K0ZKAQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506546740&sr=8-5&keywords=fluval+spec
  If that's too much money this is also a good budget tank: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-29095-Cube-Aquarium-3-Gallon/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506546844&sr=1-5&keywords=aquarium+kit
  
  
• Buy a heater, any basic heater that can sustain a set temp is fine: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506547013&sr=1-2&keywords=tetra+heater
  
  
• Decorations: Bettas have long fins that tear easily on sharp plastic plants. Buy soft or rounded decorations and substrate.
  
  
• It's also highly suggested to buy any type of water conditioner to remove chlorine from tap water etc.: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-16172-AquaSafe-8-45-oz/dp/B00068JW0A/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506547213&sr=1-5&keywords=tetra+easy+balance
  
  
• Betta food is subjective, though I like Hikari's brand that comes in those clear packages with the maze looking thing to dispense food.
  
  

A good local fish store, a place that specializes in aquariums, is a great ally to have. Related are local small pet stores (no dogs and cats) and local pet stores. The more specialized you go, generally the better you get. There are bad ones - the LSPS and LPS that are very accessible to me are awful. Sick fish in dirty water, dead fish drying up on the floor :'(

I mostly go to Petco because the good LFS is a one hour train ride for me. Mine is well managed: the fish are healthy, the plants are nice, and the department manager has a lot of experience. A chain store may be your best option, and if the fish seem healthy (the water is clean, minimal fin damage, no visible diseases) then go for it. Not all Petco are created the same.

Live plants: You can buy online (/r/aquaswap and /r/PlantedTank are two subreddits for this) or buy in-store. LFSs often have live plants. Petco sometimes has plants - buy the ones in the tanks, not the ones in the tubes. Petsmart only has tube plants, which have to go through an adaptation period after being submerged, and they may not survive that period. Awfully expensive on top of that! You can do a snail dip to clean up your plants before placing them in your tank.

As for tanks... whatever makes you happy. Betta prefer horizontal space to vertical space, but this seems to be a very popular tank on /r/bettafish. Buying tanks online can be a crapshoot; make sure that the price is competitive because often they'll jack it up to make up shipping costs for a large, heavy, fragile item. I suggest you look in person. I've been happy with this one but I would recommend going 5 or even 10 gallons if it's your first swing after you've been out for a while.

They have a betta care sheet at /r/bettafish, and if you search "tank recommendations" you'll turn up a whole slew of what's worked well for others :)

Good luck!

my mini wigglebutt has the same problem. He likes to be chased and chase things but doesn't like to return the ball. He thinks it is funner to drop the ball wait there and make me try and go get it and then he will pick it up and run. He gets nippy so its hard to play with him because he gets so amped up. i got him a tethertug that he will play with. https://tethertug.com I get him different squeaker toys to put on the end and he will latch onto it which is good. Although the toy is meant to be able to play by himself he does not like that. So I stay on the other end and get him amped up and swing it at him which he likes. He wont nip at me cause he will go after the toy and i don't have to go after every toy because it is in the ground. He will get tired pretty quickly which is nice. If you don't want to hammer a metal stake in the ground, I also have a flirt pole. its like the same thing as the tether tug but instead of it being in the ground you hold it and fly it around and my wigglebutt will hold on and likes to be dragged. https://www.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-41001-Exercise-Replacement/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469571753&sr=8-1&keywords=flirt+pole something like this. I would recommend getting a flirt pole first to see if she likes the idea of having a toy on a pole. Hope this helps. it certainly has helped me not get nipped at, herded, or pull my shoulder out from playing with him.

When we decided to upgrade cages for our guys, we went with the Midwest Critter Nation double unit. It's made by the same folks who make the Ferret Nation and is almost identical, except that the bars have less space between them and run horizontally rather than vertically, making them better for smaller animals and easier to add accessories to.

It's been absolutely tremendous for them. One of our boys, Harvey, is also missing one of his front paws, and he runs about without any trouble. The Critter Nation has two main levels and two "half" levels, all of them solid and of a hard plastic that the boys haven't tried to chew on (I know, amazing - but there doesn't seem to be any reason to swap them out for metal, surprisingly). The ramps that reach from level to level come with fleece covers, so there's no chance of a paw slipping between rungs.

Here's a pic of the boys giving the Critter Nation a test drive before we moved them in. They've been in it for several months now and absolutely love it.

We had planned on buying ours through Amazon.com, then found one in our local PetSmart at an amazing price one day and brought it home, just like that. (Someone must have bought it online and returned it to the store or something - I don't think they usually carry them in-store, so we lucked out and didn't have to pay for shipping!)

Anyhow, I highly recommend this model for your three chinchillas. It has plenty of room for living, sleeping, and exercising and is safe for the boy with the missing paw. It was the best decision we ever made for our chins. :)

Things you need to know about your husky:

• They are extremely intelligent, but not necessarily obedient. They are independent in nature, and can often be motivated by treats--unless the alternative is something they desire more.
  
• They are escape artists. If left to their own devices outside, they will dig, climb, squeeze, and then they will run. And run, and run--it's ingrained in their nature, so this will be almost impossible to correct. You can prevent this by keeping them entertained, which will also keep them from being destructive (boredom motivates them to destroy and explore). Also, never let them outside of a fenced in area without a leash. It's possible to train them to come when you call most of the time, but should they see a squirrel, cat, deer, anything they want to chase, their training goes out the window. Don't let them outside within fenced in areas without supervision.
  
• They are high-maintenance dogs and need a lot of exercise. Right now, walks and games of tug-of-war will suffice. When he gets older (<1 year), runs. If you're out of shape, get a bike, and ride together using the walkydog leash. My husky -loves- to swim. We swim and kayak together every weekend during the summer. Get creative with your exercise--hike, swim, try different training courses--they love the mental exercise and breaking out of routine!
  
• Get a [furminator] (http://www.amazon.com/FURminator-Long-Hair-deShedding-Large/dp/B0040QQ07C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342588841&sr=8-2&keywords=furminator) meant for long-haired dogs. Seriously. This will be one of your best investments. Other great investments that I've made have been [the Ruffwear life jacket] (http://www.amazon.com/Ruffwear-Float-Jacket-Currant-Medium/dp/B005OTYEMW/ref=sr_1_34?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1342588905&sr=1-34&keywords=life+jackets+for+dogs), [Plato's Salmon Strips treats] (http://www.amazon.com/Plato-Dog-Treats-Salmon-16-Ounce/dp/B000NVBVIQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1342588957&sr=1-1&keywords=Salmon+strips) (there is nothing Keno won't do for one of these, but they smell horrible--still worth it), [the walk dog leash] (http://www.amazon.com/Petego-Walky-Hands-Free-Bicycle-Leash/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_1) for a bike, and [Kyjen's indestructible squeak toys] (http://www.amazon.com/Invincible-Gecko-4-Squeak-Blue/dp/B005CQARAA/ref=sr_1_25?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1342589219&sr=1-25&keywords=kyjen+dog+toys).
  
  Your puppy is disgustingly adorable. Seriously one of the cutest little holy terrors I've ever seen (and I say this fondly, because my adorable husky was a monster as a puppy). I hope you form a bond as strong as mine and Keno's, and that you enrich each other's lives!

I have a very high energy dog as well. He has separation anxiety and can be destructive when bored as well.
Crate training was hard and took more than 6 months but gives him a safe place while we are gone. He’s even gone into the kennel on his own one time when he saw me getting ready to leave!
Establishing a morning/daily routine also has helped a ton with that. That would also help with the house training!
As far as the energy goes, both mental stimulation and physical exercise are important. We take Benji to the dog park almost every day. If we don’t make it there, he gets a long (2-4mi) walk in the morning and evening. The exercise is good for me too! We got a martingale collar and that has helped a ton for the pulling! Highly recommend. We also got this toy which may help you as well- he loves it! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_9ldRBbTG31S4F Mental stimulation can be new smells or behavior/clicker/treat training.

Good luck!

get a covered littler box... and get the arm and hammer double duty cat litter... it's the best I have come across so far to absorb odors...

also, you will probably have to promise her to clean the litter box all the time... if you decide to get multiple cats, you need at least one litter box per cat... plus one more if you get several cats... but that's a little down the line... gotta get the first one in the door first...

what you may have to do is just go out and get one... get a kitten because who the hell can resist their perpetual cuteness... she should fall in love instantly... but, if you don't want to take a chance of having her kill you and want her to be in on it, one thing to know, that I have experienced, when you get a kitten, the person who holds it on the ride home will become it's mom/dad (this may be theory, but it has happened with all our cats) so you may want to have a friend take you so the both of you can be there to play with it on the way home...

whatever you do, DON'T get a cat declawed... it's wrong and mean and needless if you have the proper scratching things for them to... well, scratch on... our cats like those disposable cardboard scratchers you see at the pet store...

you'll probably want a cat tree too... something where it has places to hide and a platform to get up above most of the action... if you have the tools and ability, you can even make your own out of wood and carpeting... cats will even scratch on those...

when you bring them home for the first time, open their carrier and let them come out at their own pace... don't force them out... and if they do bolt out and hide somewhere, let them stay hidden until they come out on their own... but have plenty of toys for them to choose from... I suggest one of these and one of these because our cats love them...

as for food, get the appropriate food for their age... preferably an indoor formula that helps with hairballs... because they WILL hork up hairballs regularly... be ready to clean those too... for water, I suggest one of these since cats love to drink from the faucets... so break that habit before it even starts so you're not here in three to six months asking about cats and drinking from the sink...

umm... that's all I can think of off the top of my head... I am by no means a professional, but just someone who cares about their cats (and I have a girlfriend so I am not a crazy cat guy)

any other questions, just ask... someone will be able to answer what I can't

TL;DR: none. it's a lot to read, but it's good info as far as I understand...

Ha, love the name idea!

I'm not sure if you have read around and are aware of the proper care for a betta (if you have then ignore me) but if you haven't I'll go ahead and say a two gallon bowl isn't the best place for him, and is also another reason for the downvotes. He can live in it but he's not going to thrive. He does need a heater and a filter, if you have those then that is awesome, if not you can even get them as a broke college student.

If I can tell you one thing I'm positively sure of, there is always room for a fish tank. ;)

I'm just going to link you a cheap list of good stuff for little moneys:

Sponge Filter

Air Pump

Airline Tubing I bet you can find this in stores for less. Also less as an add on item.

Check Valve Most likely less at a store.

Heater, Heater 2 Costs a good bit more but I really love these.

Tank, Tank 2 There are many other options to look at.

If you go with the cheapest it will run you just about $58 with prime.

Hope the list gives you something to think about. If you've got any questions at all I'd be more than happy to answer them if I can.

Edit* Added a link.

OK, Im just going to list a bunch of stuff I've purchased through this process. Nothing is in any particular order.

Almond leaves (for tannin) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LKTX4VC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Moss - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035Q65TQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cholla Wood - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4FUMHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dried red Shrimp (Protein and Chitin) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027JCRVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Instant Ocean (1/3cup per Gallon) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NKA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ultrasonic Mister/Fogger (for DIY Fogger) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PAK21WU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Digital Temp Humidity Controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I6BZ2IO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED White/Blue Light - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191EWII2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

UTH (You may need to get a different size and this isn't the most recommended, but it works for me currently) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TR4HLEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (This one has adhesive on the back of it, so you just stick it on like a sticker.)

Cork Bark Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019J1VPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Water Conditioner - https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O

If you have any questions, please feel free. To mitigate confusion I felt just listing this as a reference first is the best approach. If you are looking for a new tank so that you can get friends, i would suggest 30 or more gallons and work towards that instead of investing into the current tank which would get changed.

Personally with the 5 i have i clearly see they need much more room than the 15 gallon they have now. I am in the process of acquiring an 85-120 gallon tank for permanency. These guys can live 20+ years with the proper care and environment. but not everyone has that freedom. 30 is a totally doable size for 3 crabs. they can grow to jumbos and be fine in there, but im sure if they reach that stage you'll be looking for another tank. Jumbos need at least 12" of substrate for molting.

10 gal is fine. I started my first SW tank a couple months ago and I got a 6 gal. Now, you will have to have to have live rock. Without it, it will be nearly impossible to have a stable tank. I suggest you get around 15 pounds. Get all the live rock you plan to have in you tank at once so your parameters don't get an ammonia spike if you have a fish inside. Aragonite sand should be fine. I would stay FOWLR (fish only with live rock) because corals are much harder. The cycle is also very similar. Set up your tank, add sand, fill with a few inches of water, add rocks and aquascape, fill up with water, add a deli shrimp, and you should be good to go. You will need some salt, a hydrometer, a good reliable heater, some lighting, a power head and test kit. And also a filter.
This is what I would get
http://amzn.com/B000260FUM
I would put the bio rings and carbon aside and replace with this,
http://amzn.com/B0002A5VK2
http://amzn.com/B004PBD4J4
Add the matrix when you start cycling, then add the purigen when you are getting fish. The reviews are speaking for the product. Purigen is simply a godsend
http://amzn.com/B00019JOSO
Go for a refractometer if you can afford it but this works fine for me as long as I tap it an there are no bubbles.
http://amzn.com/B001EUE808
The test kit.
http://amzn.com/B0036S4YZ0
This powerhead should do fine in a 10 gallon.
http://amzn.com/B003M7P9YU
This is one of the best most reliable heaters on the market. Many will fail and bake your tank but not the jagar.
http://amzn.com/B003EE5GUS
These make life a whole lot easier BN testing water or adding things like calcium. You get 10 so they should def last a while.
http://amzn.com/B008SJ1H7A
Get like 5 of these. They are extremely accurate and last around 3 months each. Wrap the wire around the tank and have one on at all times. They also help when doing water changes. You should also pick up an extra heater for water changes, via aqua and aqua top have good ones. These are made in china and sent out to companies like coralife to be package and sold for like 10 dollars, see
http://amzn.com/B0002DI4TO

Now, this is the salt I use for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B0002DJU0G
This should last you a year or two and is way cheaper then continually buying salt. I personally use tap water that has been heavily decholinated with this,
http://amzn.com/B00176CVK8
You should get your tap water tested for copper which can kill invertebrates. A 5 gallon bucket is really useful as is this siphon for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B002LL8BWU
This net is really fine and will catch most tiny debris
http://amzn.com/B008HPOCUE
You will probably find it cheaper in a store. I leave it in front of my powerhead for a hour or two every couple to days to catch debris and waste.
These tweezers help for when you don't want to get your hands wet.
http://amzn.com/B001CWDSYA
But they do start rusting after a lot of
use.
http://amzn.com/B0002E7ITK
This has been the best fish food in my experience but all fish should be fed a varied diet. This is a good staple and should be substituted with brine shrimp, mysis shrimp (frozen) and seaweed.
Not everything here is necessary, I'm just telling you what helped me make the jump to saltwater.
Here are some pics of my tank:

http://imgur.com/p3PP7X7
http://imgur.com/9kUaq1g
http://imgur.com/wtUfCb5
http://imgur.com/yl82GRn

One last thing, in a tank that size, draw a small line where you want you water level to be, when it goes below that due to evaporation, top off water. Test your salinity often in that tank. I use seachem marine buffer to deal with pH issues but chemicals and buffets should be avoided.

>do you have any recommendations for things he might be more inclined to play with on his own?

Yes! This circuit toy is a wonderful example of a self-play type of toy that can keep a kitten's attention a bit longer than balls or knit toys, because in the cat's perspective it keeps moving- but less predictably so- after the paws are off :P. As a bonus - it's pretty quiet, and your cat isn't going to lose this one under a dresser or something (because it can't leave the track). This toy was a savoir during my own cat's super-playful kitten period.

Electronic motion toys such as this one are also a possibly more-enticing option for your cat. (Though - the "motion madness" toy the same maker puts out isn't really worth it, IMO, if you see a link to that- it's loud and get struck on things easily).

You can also find corrugated cardboard scratchers that have holes in the bottom of then with dangling feathers or shiny balls inside, such as this one (although i have a cheaper version I got from wall-mart). The benefit of this combo is that your cat may be inclined to go scratch the scratcher and then get "distracted" by the play item, so basically it increases the chance the cat will play with it.

Additionally, you didn't seem to mention any toys that aren't on the floor and are perhaps a dangling attraction - that can matter a lot, as some cats perfer that type of play, and even those that don't can get tired of just one type. Do you have any dangling attractions, such as doornob hanging scratchers, or even posts that include a dangling toy of sorts, such as this one? They also make these tent-like contraptions with dangling toys. If you've ever heard of the "play types" such as "bird, mouse, bug, snake.." - that's ideally what you want to emulate with your options. Even if your kitten prefers to hunt "mice" - chasing a bird or a bug every now and then can break things up more.

Additionally, if you don't have something like an "activity mat", it might be something to look out for on the cheap. Or those tunnels - both can offer a different type of experience (the crinkly kind, I guess).

Please do not yell at your cat or spray your cat with water it will not teach it a thing and it will only confuse it and teach it to be afraid of you.

Increase one on one play time with your cat to get some energy out. Use a variety of toys and rotate them. Some tried-and-true favorites...
This is such a simple toy and a very cheap so order several as they are an add-on item and they’re great to have around in every room because kitties seem to always enjoy them whether it’s dangled from the air or drug along the ground for chasing.
Cat Dancer 101 Cat Dancer Interactive Cat Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N9I68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1evSCbGX4WXZ4

Order natural peacock feathers off of Amazon for a super fun game with your kitty. The first time my girl are saw one she literally stood up on her hind legs walking across the floor trying to get out it. When you want to get the feather away pull it straight back toward you and it will slip through their claws and teeth. Eventually the quill will break from play so it's good to get a pack of them, they are not very expensive.
ALL in ONE 20pcs Natural Peacock Tail Feather https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HSNADGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_NHlSCbJAG6FXW

SnugglyCat The Ripple Rug - Made in USA - Cat Activity Play Mat - Thermal Base -Fun Interactive Play - Training - Scratching - Bed Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016H3T8EC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dg9vCbVZN8R0Y. My girl goes crazy for this one every time. Dangle a peacock feather or anything else outside some of the holes when your kitty hides in the rug and you’ll see little arms reaching out of holes all over the place it is hilarious and loads of fun.

Your kitty is a lifelong companion so please take a little time to make the most of that relationship and read this book by Jackson Galaxy- The cat daddy himself.

Total Cat Mojo: The Ultimate Guide to Life with Your Cat https://www.amazon.com/dp/0143131613/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WRCHCbTMQSY5F

Alright...time to start typing out this monster.

Ive been reading guides and stuff, but i have a terrible memory when reading things, and theres some stuff i want to double check, etc.

Im looking to set up my old 29 gal tank from when i was a kid (its been empty for 10+ years). My goal is to do a planted tank with primarily tetras and shrimp...maybe a pleco and perhaps another type of schooling fish.

I probably wont be able to start cycling for ~2 weeks or so, though by the time i buy stuff on amazon, etc thats probably a decent timetable.

This light was suggested to me by another user. Should be sufficient for growing plants in a low tech system, right?

Ive seen various numbers for how 'oversized' a filter should be. Right now im kinda looking at these two (1) (2). Any comments on brand? It looks like i can get either one in bigger/smaller sizes. 400gph seems like it might be a bit overkill...but is 250 too low?

Ive read that often the agitation in the surface water by the filter is enough to provide sufficient gasses to the plants/fish...do you think that ill be true in a low tech tank? Would an aerator help? I dont think i'll mind having bubbles coming up in the background if it will, but am i overthinking this?



I wish i had saved more links on substrate and sand and all. Any recommendations for substrate for plants? Would probably like black stuff. I think this is the one i had read about being good?

Thinking about doing a bit of gravel in the tank, but i'd also like to do some sand. Maybe something like 2/3 sand (maybe a couple different types?) and then the rest gravel? Thoughts/concerns?

I thought i had read somewhere that people often use blasting sand (rinsed well)....anyone have comments on that? I could probably get some for cheap from work, though im not sure i want dark sand...


Best place to get a larger piece of driftwood? Ive looked around online a bit and have seen a ton of different sites and whatever, but was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for where to go. Im probably going to want one big piece, and then i can get smaller pieces from wherever.


I assume when im doing water changes and stuff im going to want to bypass our water softener? Our water is supposed to be pretty hard, do i want to maybe mix softened with unsoftened? (ive seen a lot of stuff about adding minerals to pure RO water, but havent seen much on softeners)




Im sure ill think of more, but this should at least be a good start...

Edit: Best place to get rocks and stuff? I'd like a couple for a natural look, im just not sure where to get them. I could get some red granite around here, but im not sure how that'd work, and it seems like it'd be really heavy...?

I know this is over $10 (but not by much!) but I think it looks like an amazing kitty toy!

I love those kind of cats. I am the only person in my family who does! They're pretty amazing and the ones I've met were all very friendly, active and curious.

I'm in the same boat you are, just 6 months in. Never had a dog before, always a cat person. Here's what I've learned (so far).

1. All they want is to be with you. If she's not with you, she probably into something.
   
2. They're smart. So smart that you'll realize you're not as smart as you thought you were. I bought ours this, filled it with treats, then anxiously awaited as he tried to solve the puzzle. He just picked the whole thing up and flipped it over so that all of the treat covers fell out. "Problem" solved.
   
3. It took ours a couple months to get the "retriever" part down, but once he did.. man he brings us everything.
   
4. Give him lots of toys that he can "work" at. Kong toys with treats in them, maze balls, etc. I'm thinking of picking up something like this for ours next.
   
5. Be ready to walk. Cold, hot, doesn't matter. Golden's need exercise and love to run. On that note...
   
6. Get him out to a dog park or visit with other dog-having friends as much as you can! Not only is it great for socializing the dog, but she'll be tired out from all of the playing.
   
7. Try to curb jumping up as soon as possible. we didn't do this, and now we're kicking ourselves.
   
8. Get some training books and start as soon as you feel your pup is ready. Ours looooves being engaged and figuring out what he's supposed to do.
   
9. When she picks up something she's not supposed to, don't chase after her. Again, this is our boys favorite game now. "Oh, daddy is trying to work? I'm just going to grab this pillow and run!"
   
10. Remember that it's always your fault. Any bad behavior is the result of the dog not being told what is allowed. Positive reinforcement is always the better option!

I haven't tried these but heard good things about them on other forums and the reviews are very positive, especially since Nature's Miracle switched scents and ruined a good product. Just a few suggested Amazon links that might work well for you. Not sure if anyone else can suggest them or not.

Rocco & Roxie Professional Strength Stain & Odor Eliminator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/

Sunny & Honey Pet Stain & Odor Miracle: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4Z5B24

Zero Odor Pet Spray: https://www.amazon.com/Zero-Odor-Eliminator-Trigger-ounces/dp/B0049PBWEA/

Bubba's Rowdy Friends Pet Supply Company Pet Stain and Odor Remover Enzyme Cleaner Spray: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GK56SVE/

Well, I can provide a bit of info but also hope to get a few answers myself.

I have a 4(ish) year old, 50lb aussie/bc mix. I bought a walky dog system this spring:

http://www.amazon.com/Petego-Walky-Hands-Free-Bicycle-Leash/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374676694&sr=8-1&keywords=walky+dog

and I am quite happy with it.

It is quite an advantage to have dog/leash tethered to your seat. Last weekend we were out for a ride/run and a fawn jumped out of the trees. Instead of having my arm ripped off or the bike pulled off the road, the combination of your weight on the seat and the good sized spring in the bar that allows the leash to flex kept us both under control. It is also good that the dog can't cut in front of the bike with this setup. The bar is a quick detach from the bracket so it is easy to deal with as well. Thumbs up on the product.

Now my related question. I have been unsure how far is too far for my Aussie to run. We were out for a couple of miles on the weekend and I think that is about the max without a good break at this point. I don't know know if more trips will increase range or not. So anyone been doing this long enough or have some data on how far a fit Aussie should be able to run? I would love to get up to 6-10 miles but heck, the dog has to run alongside. I am not sure that is reasonable?

Cherry and blue dream are the same species and will interbreed.

I would recommend picking one or the other.

When they interbreed, you won't get purple, instead you'll get some poorly colored blues, some poorly colored reds and a lot of "plain" which are basically mostly clear with some light brown.

Also neocardinas like lower temperatures, if you're looking to build a colony you should avoid tropical fish since they prefer warmer temps. If you're keeping shrimp a heater isn't really necessary.

I agree to wait for the $1 per gallon sale, it really is difficult to beat.

Over the last few years I've had 6 20g's going at the same time with slightly different set-ups from sponge filters to HOB to canister. I experimented with all methods, hi-tech, low-tech, waldstadt.

The most important thing you can do is think about what your end goal is. You'll make mistakes at first, everyone does. But if you plan ahead you can minimize how costly they will be.

If I were to recommend a set-up to a beginner.

• $20 aquarium PetCo $1 per gallon sale
  
  
• $35 AquaClear HOB filter
  https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM
  
• $8 SunSun powerhead
  https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Submersible-Aquarium-Hydroponic-Powerhead/dp/B00OUJ60RY
  
• $90 LED + full spectrum. As far as lighting goes, I've never been let down by Current USA, but I've never tried this model.
  https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Satellite-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B00C7OTE0O
  
• $40 Substrate I recommend aquasoil
  https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Soil-Amazonia-Liter-Normal/dp/B00519832W
  
• $80-$150 for hardscaping. I would recommend Seiryu, Manten, or Ohko stones. You'll want 20-30 lbs and the cost ranges from $3 per lb to $6 per lb.
  
• $10-$25 for plants. For starting off I'd recommend something easy and fast growing like hygro pinnatifida, cabomba caroliniana, dwarf hairgrass, and rotala indica.
  
• $10 initial livestock. Get everything set-up and planted. Then buy 5 white cloud minnows to cycle your tank for the first month. These guys love the same parameters as your soon to be purchased shrimp.
  
• $5 second livestock purchase, get 2 otolincus catfish. By this point your tank should be cycled and some algae may be growing, otos will clean that up in no time.
  
• Now you buy your shrimp. You can get decent quality fire red cherry shrimp for ~$3-4 each, or blue dreams for $5-7 each. You'll want to start off with 10. Be good with your 20% water changes every week and soon they will be molting afterwards. Soon you'll get babies, after your first batch is born, buy another 10 to improve the gene pool a bit.

Maybe try some new toys?

I've been meaning to make a list of my cats' favorite toys. I have two cats, brother and sister, Millie and Smokey, now about 9 months old.

First, I can't explain it, but this carrot. I bought it on a whim at a pet store because it was on clearance and I thought it kind of looked like the Minecraft carrot and I thought it would be cute to see them playing with it. It comes with separate catnip container and you can fill the carrot with catnip, but I didn't use any. OMG, they go crazy for the thing. They get super possessive of it. If the other cat comes near, they'll growl and run away. Smokey likes to be chased when he has the carrot in his mouth. I lunge like I want to steak his carrot and he runs a few feet away, daring me to try to take it again. Millie will self-play with the carrot, batting it around on our hardwood floors. They've gone through two already. I think it's time to get a third.

Da Bird. It was recommended here and it's awesome. Something about the movement, the twirling, the colors, the noise. They can't ignore this thing. If the feather thing gets destroyed, replacements are available and cheap.

Cat Dancer 101. This is a stiff wire with some cardboard bits on one end. Move it and shake it a bit and I guess it looks like a flying insect. On the plus side, when they catch it, it's fairly easy to get them to release it.

Cat Dancer 301. This is Millie's favorite. She knows where I keep it and "leads" me to it at every opportunity. Like, first thing when I wake up and when I get home from work. It's a short stick with a long strip of fleece material. Wave it as you move in a circle and they're mesmerized. When they catch it, it's a bit difficult to get them to release it.

Well, like you said, life is busy which is why appreciate your thoughtful replies. And is also why my own reply is so late!!

I just uploaded some new photos to an imgur link..to help portray some of the things I might refer back to as I go through this post: https://imgur.com/a/aXGPf.

As I am typing this I see an earlier suggestion of yours that addresses one of my photo's subjects. So due to the fish-in cycling stress of the tank it's normal for Christopher to be chilling mainly on the filter intake...upside down (for me it's the 3rd pic down, and he's bit opaque)?? He seems to swim normally and happily whenever he feels like it, and easily removes himself from the filter. A google search shows it may be okay behavior. I mean, if he wants that, I am totally fine with it, but I know I need to somehow slow the current of the filter to avoid too much more stress. I'm concerned more about a small bit of redness on the bottom of Christopher's belly/bottom fin. Elsewhere he looks fine, just a bit of new redness at the fin's tip. By, the way, I have say thank you again. By the time I got to doing the salt bath I mentioned earlier, to me he looked like a fish that wasn't going to make it. I was already looking at how to treat the tank if the betta died in it. But he is back to his old self, energetic, so I am pretty grateful. There's not way of telling, but I really think he might not still be here if I hadn't read through that link.

Thanks for suggesting the Polyfill, as you can see, my second, half-assed attempt at baffling isn't too effective. But at least the water is directed only to the tank's center, and not all over, so there's to move around it all. My first attempt where I carefully cut up the sponge was useless. Maybe since the water's not going straight down, Christopher Lee suddenly likes resting on the intake?

The first pic might seem random, but it is another new tank I am trying to fishless cycle. It's a Merineland 5 gallon portrait tank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8SZTKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's highly rated and the pump/filter(?) strength is adjustable. So the first pic is this filter on the slowest adjustment, but it still looks strong to me, especially since the tank is deeper and the fish would have to swim up a bit to eat and breath.

I don't believe the filter on the first (Walmart) tank is adjustable, but someone else set it up and got rid of the box and instructions immediately after, and I had no clue what I was doing yet.

And the Amano Shrimp sounds like a good place to start. I never looked into what I wanted as tank companions beyond the tetras, which are Dwarf Emerald. I was never much of a fan of Plecos. I knew what they looked like, but not their name. They likely would not have been my choice when I got to the point of adding more tank pals. I'll definitely be doing much more research and referring back to this advice when I get to point of adding more companions.

By the way, do you have any quick, general suggestions for possible tank mates for a five gallon tank with just a betta?

Sounds like I will have to start googling live plants as an eventual goal as I already have a lot of "playing around" to do. Can I ask one lazy (and maybe silly) question though? Can a tank have a mixture of live and fake plants? Is there more attention and effort in maintaining live plants? Ok...I think I'm starting to get into the google questions.

I did water changes on both of my tanks this morning, and the filter on my first tank, the Walmart one, suddenly seems to have stopped working. It could be the cords, but will this affect the fish a lot if it takes a day or two to get a new filter? Any suggestions on a decent one on the lower end of price ranges? The heater seems to be working and the tank is at a good temp.

I apologize for my lazy formatting, especially with how wordy this response is! I only have short patches of time here and there to try to write anything, so this is pretty much get any sort of reply I can get sent at all.

What is your lazy betta's name? And what is(are) your setup(s) like, what kind of communities? Pics are cool!

Repeating and adding on to what's already been said, neither would do well in that "tank". It's too small for any fish to live comfortably and doesn't allow for many if the things needed for fish to thrive. Because you're asking a question like this you must be new to fish keeping, which isn't a bad thing. As far as the tank goes, I would try and return it if possible. Like /u/_ataraxia said, goldfish need 30-40 gallons, minimum. To better display the reason why, here is a comparason of the goldfish you buy at the store to a full grown adult. Bettas also need larger, 2.5 gallons is the semi-agreed upon minimum for bettas. I put "semi" there because many argue that 5 or 10 gallons should be the minimum.

If you want to get some fish for you daughter and care for them in a humane way I'd invest in a 10 gallon tank. 10s are small enough to be affordable for beginners and allow for more than one fish to be kept in the tank. /u/kamikazeX already mentioned that petco has a $1 per gallon sale on now which you should really take advantage of if you want to commit to this. Personally, I think a 20 gallon long tank would be much better and would only cost about $10-15 more to set up and will make your life easier. Believe it or not bigger is better and the bigger the tank the less maintenance you have to do. For things you should research a small list would be:

• The nitrogen cycle and how to cycle a tank without fish, you may want to add fish right away but that would likely kill them due to ammonia poisoning
  
  
• What fish can fit in your tank
  
  
• Please, please, pleeeaaaaaaaaase research an individual fish before buying it. All too often people buy baby common plecos aka "sucker fish" when they're little, without knowing that they get massive
  
  As far as what I'd recommend buying to get started is:
  
  
• 20 Gallon long or 10 galon (up to you, but the 20 is easier to care for)
  
  
• Aquaclear 50 (if you wanted to go with the 20) or an Aquaclear 30 (for a 10 gallon)
  
  
• Black sand (the colorful gravel may be appealing, but the paint can wear off). I say black because with the darker substrate fish show more natural colors and look better.
  
  
• Fake or real plants and some rocks or caves (personally I think that the more natural the better, and live plants help manage nitrates)
  
  
• Decent lights
  
• Small heater or an appropriate size
  
  There may be similar products for lower prices, but with aquariums you always want to buy nice, not twice. When/if you get a proper tank and it is time to add fish go to trhe store and find the ones you like, write down what they are and leave. Don't buy them, leave. Go home and do your research so you know how to care for what you're getting and that it will do well in your tank. The last time I bought fish I had done a week of research on what I was buying.

Depends on what shrimp you want to keep, some of them require specific setup, like soft water Caridina (crystal shrimp and bees) and hard water Caridina (Sulawesi shrimp). "Base" will be very different for each of them. The rest of questions can be answered only after you decide on what kind of shrimp to keep.

Here are some of their photos and requirements. More on ShrimpFever website, or of any other supplier.

Next, make sure that you water is suitable for chosen kind of shrimp. Test or do online search for name of your city and water analysis. Or maybe you are already prepared to make optimal for them artificial RO based water.

Minimal tank setup: tank (not kit), filter (sponge is good), heater only if your room is cold in the winter, thermometer, light for plants, plants, a lot of hiding places for molted shrimp and babies (could be clumps of plants, wood, shrimp shelters). Substrate is species specific.

Sponge filter: T-shaped is my preferred kind. It should be connected to air pump by airline tubing, with check valve and double air valve to regulate intensity of air flow. Do amazon search for each of them, you will see how they look like. If power filter (=HOB), intake protector will be necessary for small shrimp and babies, sponge or stainless steel cylinder, pantyhose should work too.

If you will need heater, preset to 78F heater could be used only for neocaridina (cherries) and ghosts, but not for cold water caridina. Adjustable heaters could not keep temperature low enough, then external temperature controller (like Inkbird) could be needed. 50W should be enough.

Plants are up to you, this is very personal. I prefer the easiest way, low light low tech plated tanks mostly moss based (Christmas moss, weeping moss, spiky moss, fontinalis, Marimo moss ball, round pellia (actually liverwort, subwassertag or susswassertang), mini pellia. Do image search for moss tank to see moss trees, walls, hills, logs. Rootless plants do not require substrate at all.

Light is kind of plants specific, there are low light setups, fast and easy, and high light setups with fertilization schedule and CO2 dosing. Planted Tank subreddit can say what light fixture would be good for your tank and plants, if your price range. I'm using Nicrew and for other tanks, desktop lamps with daylight CFL. You will need tank cover (lid) for this kind of lights and to reduce evaporation. $5 timer is good enough, but you can ask for a better solution at Planted Tank.

Reliable online stores for livestock: you should name the country. ShrimpFever should be of no help if you are not in Canada.

Food sources for shrimp: depends on the kind of shrimp.

• Dwarf shrimp (cherry, crystals) will graze on the biofilm on the driftwood, glass, sponge filter, plants, with additional feeding by blanched or weighed raw vegetables (zucchini, cucumber, baby carrots, broccoli and so on, preferably low in sugar and holding shape well), leaf litter (do search for this and shrimp), and commercial food (you can see examples on ShrimpFever and find the same in your country). Mineral supplement helps with molting and color. Using feeding dish (like small Petri dish) helps to control pollution, this is even better. More about feeding them is in Shrimp Tank search.
  
  
• Ghost shrimp: anything you give them, especially live black worms, or frozen worms, will be appreciated. Variety and what doesn't pollute tank much.
  
  
• Amano and fan shrimp, no experience.
  
  Maintenance tools: if you will have substrate, gravel cleaner, sized to your tank, bucket, glass scraper.
  
  Tests: API GH/KH test kit; ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for cycling tank; pH just in case, TDS meter is helpful.
  
  Good to have: a piece of clear acrylic tubing for picking up uneaten food, this shrimp net. Scissors are up to you, I'm pulling apart my mosses by hands.

Sure!

The Buster Cube (I have this) is an awesome puzzle toy (this is the "large" version, be sure to check sizes). This is a little bit more difficult to use, as the hole that spits out the food is pretty small, and as the kibble gets to be lesser and lesser inside of the Cube, it's harder to get it out. It's cube-shaped (obviously), so pushing it around isn't all that easy, and your dog needs to be firm with it in order to get the food out. This isn't a good toy for linoleum, or hardwood - it's really only good on carpet.

The IQ Ball is awesome too! It is adjustable, which is cool, so you can make it easy at first, and more challenging as your pup gets better and better at it. This is probably a better choice for tile, linoleum, hardwood, etc.

The Bob-A-Lot is another good one. It's more challenging than the Kong Wobbler (again, check the size, I believe this one is a "large").

I also have this Busy Buddy toy for my dog. It's really really challenging for her. The rope has to go inside of it, and then the dog has to pull it out in order to get the food out. This one takes a bit of effort on your part, unless you think your pup can figure out how to push the rope in and then pull it out again.

There are also plenty of food dispensing toys like this one that force your dog to move "puzzle" pieces around to get the food underneath them!

Lots of options!

First step is cleaning and vet. Take both cat's to the vet because sometimes this behavior is due to bladder infections, kidney issues, UTI's.. etc. It is essentially them saying "Hey something is wrong".

Get a good Enzymatic Cleaner and start scrubbing. Everywhere they have peed on the floor (or pooped). Buy or use a good scrub brush and some rubber gloves and just get it really good.

Next step is to clean out the litter boxes and put fresh litter in both (you really should have 2, 1 for each cat) but save some poop (just one scooped bit) from them and put it in the fresh one. It kind of helps them with association. Make sure the litter boxes are big enough for the cat's (1.5 cat lengths long and 1 cat length wide). Also make sure they are in low traffic areas of the house or covered (even kitties like privacy).

If none of this works then I honestly don't know what else to do. This is all the things I have done and they have worked in the past when we had kitties that had bathroom issues. Good Luck :)

I can totally understand not wanting to leave her in her crate for so many total hours each day. First I would recommend having lots and lots of toys on hand. The idea is to try to keep her engaged as much as possible while she's out there. Dogs can get tired of toys so I suggest investing in some new ones if you can and rotate them every few days. Have lots of chew toys on hand including hooves, horns (mine loves water buffalo horns especially) and antlers. The Busy Buddy Tug-a-jug can be a great toy once they get the hang of it. People who keep dogs in their apartment will actually give them all of their chow in these (start with small sized kibble first - any ACD mix will be smart enough to figure it out quickly) and they work to get it out during the course of the day. This will tire them out not only physically but mentally as well, which is hugely important, especially for ACD's. Along these lines, find new ways to engage her when you are home. Walks and exercise are essential but maybe start some training on new tricks (just 5-8 minutes at a time). ACD's need a job to do and helping to fulfill that in various ways can help to ease anxiety during others times of the day. It will be a process and it may not come without some trouble but it should eventually get better. I hope some of this is useful.

Just saw this.

Source: Cats my entire life.

• I don't think 10 hours alone everyday is good for a kitten, a young-middle age cat would be better. The best thing would be to get 2 cats so they aren't lonely, but that's obviously a big commitment. Cats are totally ok alone for a long time but they still miss you. My cat acts out if I'm gone for too long.
  
  
• It's pretty easy honestly. I wanted a dog too but decided on the cat because they are relatively easy to take care of and can be alone for longer than dogs. Changing the litter, feeding, clipping claws, occasional bath, and then playtime are all you need. If you get 2, you can cut back on playtime some.
  
  
• Kittens are obviously the ideal choice cause they're so freaking cute, but I would consider an older kitten in this circumstance.
  
  
• Vet bills are expensive. Cat food and cat litter are expensive, but not as much as dog food. Be ready to not be able to leave for a weekend at moments notice. This is the only thing I don't like, it limits my mobility. Have to find someone to watch them or put them up somewhere which is expensive. I've left my cats alone for a weekend before plenty of times when I was younger and had multiple cats though. I only have one now so I feel terrible cause I know he'll get lonely.
  
  
• I recommend feeding them dry food and saving canned food for small amounts as a treat. I've had cats get hooked on the wet food and refuse to eat the dry food which is substantially cheaper. It's worth it to spring for the more expensive litter to make it last longer (clumping) and so your house doesn't smell bad. Also no need to really spend much money on toys, just get them a box lol. One toy my cat does love is this though, totally worth it. Don't use lasers, I was for a while but it started driving my cat mad and found out it bad because they never get the satisfaction of catching anything.
  
  
• Beware plastic. My cat is legit addicted to it but it's super dangerous for them. I didn't care at first and just thought he was weird until he threw up plastic (thought the idiot was just licking it not eating it) and found it in his poop.
  
  Good luck!

This approach may take some time, but my cat eventually learned that if I am in the bedroom with the light off and fan on (its an oscillating one that makes a fairly strong humming sound), I am down for the night and it'll be at least a few hours before I come back. After a few weeks of this routine, he gave up on screaming outside my door. The bedroom is off-limits to him at all times, as well. If I'm in there with the light on, he will meow at me, because he knows I'm likely to come back soon.

Mine's a door-rattler, too - he can fit his paw in the crack under the bedroom door and wrap it around the door. To protect the bottom of the door from his claws, I put some rubber weatherstripping on it. For the floor, consider getting a protective film to put down where she usually scratches. Hardware stores sell them to use during painting / construction, and many of them are affordable and tear-resistant.

It may be inconvenient, but do your best to cat-proof the house so you can ignore her acting out with minimal collateral damage. Keep anything fragile in drawers or cabinets unless you're actively using it. Consider making the bedroom a no-cat zone and putting as many valuables as possible in there. Don't leave food or drinks unattended - if you have to step away, stick them in the fridge or a cabinet while you're gone.

Also consider an electronic toy that moves around or something more interactive that will keep her engaged at night or while you're busy without the need for a human to facilitate playtime. Here are a few ideas::

https://www.amazon.com/SmartyKat-Feather-Whirl-Electronic-Motion/dp/B00KQGRIKI/

https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Design-Senses-Circuit-Original/dp/B001LWRFW2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP7F8YC

https://www.amazon.com/Tower-Tracks-Track-Interactive-Petstages/dp/B00DT2WL26

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714D3FDT?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DJ6XW

https://www.amazon.com/Hex-480-3030-Nano-Assorted-Styles/dp/B01B45AMIO/

Also, if she ignores the scratching post but loves to tear the crap out of your floor, she may prefer a horizontal scratcher. One wasted $30 scratching post later, I figured that out about my cat. Something like these would be worth a try:

https://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Colors-vary/dp/B000IYSAIW - doubles as a toy

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YQ5KJM/ - this one is nice because you can lay it flat on the floor, prop it up at an angle with the cardboard flap, or hang it from a doorknob to see which works best. Also comes with catnip to sprinkle inside it. These have corrugated cardboard surfaces and don't last as long as carpet or sisal rope, but my cat seems more satisfied with something he can actually destroy. He'll jump on it, attack it with his claws, then roll around in the bits he tore off. You will vacuum a lot of cardboard flakes off the floor as it starts to wear out, but for me it's worth the trouble. If you don't like the mess, you can buy this one to test whether horizontal, inclined, or hung against the wall works best, then invest in a similar style of scratcher made from more durable material. That was my plan, but he just loves this stuff so much I order one as an add-on every month when I buy litter.

I'm going to make this list assuming that you have Amazon in your area and that either you or someone you know has Amazon Prime. If not, then think of this as more of a template that you can tweak using what you have available to you:

• Tank: Finnex Rimless - This isn't a prefab as much as it is just a blank slate. 7.5 gallons is ample room for a nice little shrimp colony, the tank itself is quite attractive and Finnex is one of my more favored brands for LEDs.
  
  
• Filtration: Depending on your personal preference, I tried/like both the Tom Mini Filter and Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano. They're both quiet, gentle and have few moving parts for easy maintenance and cleaning. It just depends on whether you like submersible or HOB style filters, though if using the Biomaxx I'd suggest wrapping the intake with coarse filter pads or a sponge.
  
  
• Substrate: Eco-Complete - You'll probably be able to grow just about any plant you desire in this stuff, it's dirt cheap compared to other brands and is just as easy to use as plain old normal gravel. One bag should be all you need.
  
  Hopefully you have Amazon Prime available to you where you are, and if so none of this requires any shipping charge. If you do at most this will cost you $115.79, leaving you lots of money to spend on shrimp and plants! Hope this was helpful to you, best of luck!

We've just abandoned any stuffed toys for Joe, because what is enjoyable for him is methodically ripping them apart. The first thing he goes for is the tag, because he knows that comes off easily, and after that he goes for the seams :)

Anyway, best toys for him are ones that we play with together: this flirt pole is great and I'm surprised how sturdy it is; we have a rope tug toy (it used to be a snake but the head was stuffed and so it got ripped apart within 24 hours!); and we have a Hol-ee roller ball which he enjoys chewing occasionally and chasing even more rarely! The holes are a little big to put regular treats in, but once I put the end of his rawhide chew in there and he had a LOT of fun with it, and another time I stuffed it with socks and an old dishcloth for him to pull out the holes because I thought it would replace stuffed toys a bit more safely. Then he tried to eat my sock, so I haven't done it since :P But it's fine if you're going to supervise!

We also have a rawhide chew for him and an antler. He really likes the antler; I think next time I would get the antlers that are split down the middle so that it's even more attractive to him.

Some people keep shrimp in small couple gallon bowls with success, judging by stuff I see on jarrarriums? The smaller the tank though the faster the water can go toxic. This portrait 5 gallon has been on sale for a while, it's what I'm using to make a shrimp tank. I haven't had success yet but that's another story... Cycling is hard x_x

As for plants, I've heard they love plants like Java moss, hornwort, and elodea, because the amount of surface area encourages the growth of biofilm and other things they eat especially as babies.

There are some commercial pellets out there, they can also eat some veggies. I hear that rotating different foods is best for them.

For water parameters, you just need to make sure there's enough calcium/minerals for them to molt properly.

This is all hearsay since I haven't had success yet but good luck!

He really needs a filter, you can probably find a tiny sponge filter which all it requires to run is an air pump (which you have) and it can still make bubbles for him! Bettas like jungles, I suggested live plants because they help with the water quality. You need to fish-in cycle the tank, the airstone is okay but you really need a filter to circulate the water through. When the tank is cycled the filter will have enough beneficial bacteria to convert ammonia created by fish into nitrite (also toxic) then into a safer chemical nitrate which is less toxic in larger quantities but we want to keep it below 20.

Heaters:

Tetra HT Submersible Aquarium Heater With Electronic Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-FRNDbBWFSS7A


Marina Submersible Heater for Aquarium, Mini, 25-watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFELT92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gJRNDb8MRN195


Hydor 25W Submersible Glass Aquarium Heater - Original Theo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NKRNDbH01Y034

Maybe this filter would fit? It shows dimensions but idk what your tank is like - it would go in the corner -

SLSON Aquarium Sponge Filter Corner Filter Biochemical Cotton Fine Filtering for Fish Tank up to 21 Gallons https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PF7T1QZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BMRNDbDEQF4GE

This is also super important-

API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iNRNDbAPV8KBQ

Heres a link to prime:


Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HNRNDbDRHJ1G1

Congrats on the first tank! My most successful tank was a 20 long, and honestly I think about going back very often.

If you're looking for a simple entry-level start to filtration, I would go with a simple hang-on-back filter (or HOB for short as they're called in the reefing community). You could absolutely add a small refugium/sump as mentioned here as well, which would increase your water volume and filtration ability, allowing you to get one or two more fish in the system, however as I'm sure you know it will be a bit more expensive and complicated to set up, with a few extra risks regarding any blockages in pumps.

If you're looking into the HOB option, I would recommend my personal favorite, the AquaClear filter (you can get it here https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486060633&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+filter). I fill mine with the provided media (I replace the bag of carbon monthly with my own bags that I fill which are a bit cheaper), along with a small filter bag of phoslock to remove some of the phosphates on the top. Overall it's a relatively easy setup, and you can clean the sponge filter every week or two when you do water changes to get rid of any of the detritus that builds up.

Good luck with the tank!

I've never used the NICREW dimmable ones, but it does seem nice. I've always used this one because it's worked well for me so far on my tanks including my 20g long. Your 29g would be taller, so you might actually be fine on max power for it:

https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-Aquarium-Light-Extendable-Brackets/dp/B01C84SLRO/

The one thing I would caution with the 24/7 is it may start growing algae. My Vivagrow 24/7 grew algae in 24/7 mode on my 20g long. It took a couple weeks, but I was definitely getting algae growth on my lid. There might have been algae growth in the tank too, but I have a cleanup crew that takes care of that so I never saw it. I moved it to my 29g hoping that my floaters would absorb enough nutrients to not make algae an issue and so far it's been great. I only have floating plants in the 29g though, so I'm not sure how well it would do with other plants.

Hi there! So here's the thing: betta can be pretty f-ing hardy fish even in the worst of conditions. They should be in a 5 gal or more with a low flow filter and heater and lots of plants and hiding spots. Do that, they will be so happy and pretty and healthy.

But i grew up watching my mother care of our family betta fish. We had 3 over the years and each lived for 3 ish years all dying because my mother would drop something on them, drop them, or poison them on accident. And she kept these boys in a 1 gallon tank with 1 hide or plant. Plastic plants of course (when they had them). She would use tap water for their weekly water change. No filter. No heater. Water anywhere from 60-67°. Those betta were not very active or happy, but they lived (somehow) for 3 years.

To anyone thinking I'm justifying that type of care: I am not! They are so much more enjoyable when they are happy and healthy in a 5 gal with a filter and heater. That being said, OP I believe your boy will be ok, just keep an eye on him.

As for good tanks I highly recommend the 5 gal portrait tank. Its $70 on Amazon but comes with a filter and light. Marineland ML90609 Portrait Aquarium Kit, 5-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8SZTKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_9Mi8tkRNTC8Fv

As for a heater I recommend one that has a temperature control so you can set it between 78-82°.

This is a flirt pole. It's basically like a giant cat toys for dogs. You'll want to avoid a lot of sharp turns and jumping with it until he's older. My dog loves this. He usually plays with it for an hour a day, which is great exercise since he's sprinting the entire time. It's also good for teaching impulse control (drop it, leave it, get it, wait)

I've heard a lot of stories about dogs becoming fixated on lights/movement after laser pointers to the point of obsession. I just don't think it's worth risking.

Socialization and obedience classes for sure. Aussies usually do well in competitive OB, if you're interested. Agility would be tons of fun too. There are online classes you take, as well. These shouldn't replace classwork (since you'll miss out on socialization and distraction training) but it will be something you can do at home. I recommend Fenzi for online stuff.

Mental stimulation is super important, especially for your breed. Aussies were bred to work and they need to be entertained and stimulated. Start with 5-10 minute training sessions throughout the day, as often as he seems interested. Use his meals for training sessions too so he has to earn every piece. This is an example of how to teach beginners nose work. There's a really great Fenzi intro to nosework class if this interests you. Tracking, hide and seek, barnhut etc are all examples. It's really anything that makes him work his brain.

edit: grammar

1. Make sure you are feeding good food. Wet food is better than dry, and high protein/minimal grain is best. Check here or search r/cats for the many threads on this subject. Grocery store brands like Friskies, and even brands advertised as "high end' like Science Diet and Purina, are not good foods!
   
   
2. Slowly decrease the amount of food they each get until it is close to the recommended amount, and until their weight is ideal and stabilizes. Be careful not to reduce the amount too drastically as hepatic lipidosis is always a concern. If you're not sure of the ideal weight, check out a weight chart or consult your vet.
   
   
3. Make sure they get enough play time. You should dedicate 15-30 minutes a day to getting them active! Try Da Bird or the Cat Dancer if they aren't very interested in play.
   
   
4. Do not give in to begging!

I use a mix of substrate whatever is onsale. My favorite right now is organic gardening soil capped with sand but takes a lot of time to prep it but its cheap like 50lbs is less then 10 dollars. Here a link to prepping it: http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/library/52554-how-mineralized-soil-substrate-aaron-talbot.html

I used ecocomplete which is basically lava gravel. Here a link to it https://amzn.com/B0002DH0QM I got it for 3 dollars when my LFS was remodeling.

I use blasting sand its like 8 dollars for 50lbs. Here a link to it http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/black-diamond-medium-blasting-abrasives

I used fluval stratum. Got it one sale

I used seachem onyx sand. Got it for free during a store raffle.

I used cat litter unscented and natural clay.

I used azoo soil

I never never vacuum, clean, or siphon my substrate in my aquariums just let all the plants and substrate absorb the fish waste as nutrients.

In my opinion you can grow plants with any gravel or substrate just need nutrients. When I using just sand only as a subrate I supply it with plant food. I used Osmocote Plus Outdoor and Indoor Smart-Release Plant Food here is the link:

https://amzn.com/B00GTDGMHC

It was almost 4 dollars at walmart. How you use the garden plant food is just mix it with your substrate or sprinkle it and push it down into the substrate with your finger or chopstick. It sinks inside aquariums. I used the plant food about once every 6 months or when I think its 6 months which could be 4 months. I don't know all my plants are just growing fine.


With that said I recommend ADA Nature Substrate even tho I never used it. Because Amano Takashi, founder of ADA, knows a lot more then me I just never found it onsale or locally otherwise I would had brought it.

What I would do is use the gravel to make slopes and hill interesting landscape then mix or put plant food in it and then cover it with ADA soil.

I never ran into anaerobic zone issues but then again I had trumpet snails to help my substrate breath. Some of my substrate or gravel were 7cm+ tall and plants still grew not sure how far there roots went but they grew.

I have about 6 dirted tanks and one them had issues developing gas in the substrate. I had to poke the substrate every few days to release the gas other wise I think my plants wouldn't had grow. I think that could had been Anaerobic not sure but plants still grew but just slower compare to the other dirted tanks.

Will I hope that helps.

Congrats on the new fish! Bettas are my favorite fish, they're active and have a lot of personality, and they're very curious. I know you're starting off, but here's some info I hope will help :)

Bettas do best with a heater, between 75-79F / 23-26C, it helps them prevent illness and it keeps them active. I might consider upgrading him to a small tank you can put a heater and maybe a filter in, he'll be very active and fun to watch. I use this little filter for healing tanks if you're looking for a simple little filter.

Also, if you've heard or read anything along the lines of "bettas can live in vases by eating the plant roots" this is a lie - bettas are obligate carnivores, they only eat plants out of desperation when they're starving, and it can't sustain them. Make sure you have betta pellets, or freeze dried brine shrimp or blood worms :)

Make sure he always has access to the surface - bettas are anabantoids, or labyrinth fish, which means they need to breathe air from the surface. They can actually drown if they can't access the air, I've heard of this happening in vases where the plant blocked surface air access.

The first thing to resolve is playtime. It's possible she just loves plastic, but the fact that she doesn't want to play with you at all suggests either a picky cat, or one that doesn't yet trust you. You're the food provider, but playtime is also quality bonding time for a cat. She's already fully grown, so maybe it's a learned thing, but it's something that you should be able to correct to some extent.

There are some motion cat toys that you could try using to get her playing more on her own.

like this

this

this

or this

It's also possible that you aren't playing with her the way she wants to be played with, cats can be very fickle about this. My own cat is very picky about how my SO and I play with her, and she picks one of us based on how she wants to play. She'll pick me when she wants to chase a stick toy, and my SO when she wants to wrestle, that kind of thing.

Have you tried using the straws to play with her? Maybe try hiding a straw under a blanket where she can see it move from wiggling it. You could also try new tactics with the stick toys like this, hide them under things and move them. My cat only likes the stick toys if I alternate between moving them very slowly while in her line of sight, slowly moving out of her line of sight, and then moving it quickly to get her to chase it when she tries to pounce it.

I'd also suggest looking up different playtime techniques for cats online, like on YouTube or what have you, especially related to more wild/feral cats, as they also don't really like playing with humans. I'm not saying she's wild of course, but because she's more standoffish from you it may be along the same lines.

If you can get her to play with you consistently, then you can very easily tire her out and get her on the schedule YOU want her on. The idea is that cats hunt/play and then eat the reward of the hunt, and then sleep.

My own cat used to be very similar with waking us up very early for food, usually by making lots of noise and biting if that didn't work. Once we were able to get her on the hunt/eat/sleep schedule with her timed meals, we basically stopped the bad morning behavior entirely.

Sorry for the long post, hope this helps!

>Due to size constraints I think a 3 gallon aquarium is as high as I can go.

If the footprint is the problem look into a tall aquarium with a little more volume. The one I linked comes with filtration/lighting built in (as will most nano tanks that size) and all you need is a small heater for the back.

As for what to put into it, for your experience I would recommend shrimp as others have. They're fun to watch, rather hardy, and you'll get good feedback on water quality/quality of care based on their behavior. Once you get them to breed you can consider them well cared for.

Getting a low light plant or two will help you a lot in the long run in terms of water quality, plastic obviously are 0 care but they don't fulfill the plant's natural role in the ecosystem.

So yeah, buy an all in one nano tank and stock it with some hardy shrimp. The good looking shrimp are a bit more expensive, ghost shrimp are several for a dollar and good for learning. Get a low light plant.

If at all possible, find a local pet store and go ask the clerk questions, they'll help you find good plants. If you get a 5g you might be able to swing 3-5 neon tetra, but I'd recommend shrimp for your second (first earnest) try.

There are plenty of ways to keep your dog occupied during the day. Adults at least; puppies require a lot more attention.

Kongs (which I swear really are dog toys, despite what they look like) can be filled with any number of treats like plain low-fat Greek yogurt, peanut butter, low-fat cream cheese, no-salt broth, wet food, pureed sweet potato, and more... and frozen to make the treat last longer.

Other treat dispensing toys like the Tug-A-Jug. The idea in both of these cases is to make getting their breakfast take up time and present a challenge.

And of course, it always helps to exercise them and give them short training sessions in the morning before you go so that once you leave (with a treat, so your departure is a positive thing), they're in for a nice long nap until you get back. A well-exercised/trained dog is a happy dog, and one that's much less prone to destroy your house or terrorize other people/animals. If you do get a dog, make sure you look into breeds that are known for having an energy level that fits what you're willing to offer!

Some folks crate train (and play crate games along with or as their training sessions), but I've found that the more settled my dog gets, the less he needs a crate. It's safe for him to roam part of the house.

Other people take their dogs to daycare (which sounds silly, but a good daycare with the right dog can be great for play and socialization) or hire a dog walker to come by during their work shift.

I'm not 100% sure it will do fantastic on low/ground cover plants that need high light due to the height, but on my 18x18x24 and so far on our early-stage planted 24x18x36 these "aquarium" lights do a very good job:
https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-ClassicLED-Aquarium-Extendable-Brackets/dp/B01C84SLRO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=nicrew&qid=1556543434&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1

Get the size that the width your tank width is the smaller number in the range. It has feet that extend to reach the larger sizes, but for a vivarium ha having the light go all the way across is the best.

We mostly grow snake plant/pothos and bromeliads, but our bigger tank has a few ferns and other plants doing pretty well. Pothos grows like crazy if well watered under these. If you keep shade type plants near the bottom, it should do very well for those.

Your best bet for a 10 gallon tank is going to be petco. They are $10 right now.

As for plants, This subreddit is the best for it. Lots of people sell starter packages regularly.

For a light, I would go with a Nicrew light from Amazon. The 10 gallon sized one would be about $15-20. Its a great light for the price.

For a heater I would stick with names brands. I personally only use Eheim heaters. They are very well made and not too expensive. For a 10 gallon you will only need a 50-100 watt one.

For filtration you can use a Hang on back filter or a sponge filter. My personal favorite for a smaller tank is a hang on back with a sponge on the intake. Also if you get a HOB filter ditch the filter media it comes with and just stuff a sponge and some filter floss in there. You can get a bag of pure polyester stuffing in the fabrics section of walmart for $4. It works amazing for filtering out particles. The sponge is good for holding bacteria because you will need to replace the wadd of filter floss(polyester) every month or so at least(one bag will last you at least 2 years at this rate).

Here is the nicrew light I mentioned. Its a great light.

https://smile.amazon.com//dp/B0191EWII2

1. Figure out what size tank you have in gallons. If you don't know. Measure the length, width, and height with a tape-measure and calculate the volume here using this online calculator
   
   
2. Go the fish store immediately, tell them the size of your tank, and tell them you need the following:
   
   

• filter
  
• heater
  
• water conditioner
  
  FILTER
  
  Nothing fancy. A basic "hang-over-back" filter is all you need. Make sure to get one rated for your size tank! If you get one that's too big, you'll create way too much flow in the tank and it will tire out the fishies. This one on Amazon is rated for a 10-gallon tank.
  
  HEATER
  
  Again, nothing fancy. You just need a basic heater for your size tank. Don't get an "adjustable" heater because those take time to calibrate. Just get a "pre-set" heater. Pre-set heaters always keep the tank at about 78-degrees, which is perfect for guppies. Again, don't get one that's too big or too small. Too big will heat the tank too quickly and too small means the heater will get over-worked and eventually wear out. This one on amazon is good for a 10-gal tank as well.
  
  WATER CONDITIONER
  
  Tap water often contains chlorine to keep bacteria from growing in the pipes and making people sick. Its a safe level for humans, but it kills anything that lives in water (e.g., fish and plants). Water conditioner contains chemicals that neutralize the chlorine in tap water, making it safe for fishies again. Just follow the instructions on the bottle. Its OK to add the conditioner straight to the tank itself. As long as you have a filter circulating the water, it'll quickly make the water safe for fish and plants again. This is the water conditioner I use in my tanks.
  
  OTHER COMMENTS
  
  Employees at these stores often give some really stupid advice for more complicated issues, like the best way to make your plants grow or how to breed fancy fish, but they usually do an OK job with recommending the most basic stuff like a heaters, filter, and water conditioner. Its really hard to fuck this up because all of these products say what size tank they're rated for right on the box. Just double-check to make sure you're buying a product made for your size tank.
  
  Once you have these three things, just follow the instructions that came with each product. Its super straight-forward. When you finally have all of this set up, come back here and we can give you some more advice for the long-term care of your guppies.
  
  EDIT: Just to add a few things. The most likely culprit at the moment is either the chlorine in the tap water or the water temperature. If you used tap water and you didn't treat it, the chlorine that's often in the water is probably burning the guppies gills and making it harder and harder for them to breathe.
  
  If you did treat the water or if you're using filtered/well water, then the next most harmful condition is the cold temperature. Guppies are tropical fish and will die if left in cold water for too long. They can survive for a little while in cold water, but they'll eventually die if you don't get the water into the high-70s.
  
  Finally, the least likely problem right now is the lack of a filter. Fish excrete their waste directly into the water and over the course of a few days the tank will gradually buildup a concentration of ammonia. This ammonia will poison the fishies when the concentration get's too high. Conveniently, there are bacteria all over the place that love to eat ammonia and turn it into a less toxic chemical called nitrate, which is very safe for fish even at high concentrations. The filter provides a medium for these bacteria to grow and constantly circulates the water through the bacteria colony so the bacteria can constantly turn ammonia into nitrate. Once the bacteria colony is established, they convert the ammonia into nitrate faster than the fish can excrete more ammonia, effectively keeping the concentration of ammonia at a constant zero. All you need to do to culture a colony of ammonia-eating bacteria is to set the filter up using the instructions that came with the filter. Nature will do the rest: The bacteria are everywhere, so once the filter is going those bacteria will move in to the filter and start growing all on their own. Another benefit of the filter is that it oxygenates the water column. This is important for tanks with lots of fish, but because you only have two guppies, lack of oxygen probably isn't an issue.

Lighting: It depends on how deep the tank is. In my 55g, 29g, and standard 20g, crypts and small swords have a really hard time with standard T5 fluorescent lighting. With double-bright LEDs, they do OK.

Anubias and java ferns are my heroes. They don't grow very fast, but they just don't need a lot of fussing over, either.

Java moss won't grow where it doesn't get light -- but it doesn't have to be strong light.

If I had my preference, every tank I own would have the proportions of a 20g long. There's a lot of volume for water and fish, but it's nice and shallow so it's easy to light and for plants to thrive. My 20g long has the crappiest lights and the most prolific growth of plants.

HOB filters: If you look at the way Aquaclear filters are put together, there are three distinct components. There's a coarse foam insert for mechanical filtration. There are pumice beads with lots of surface area for bacterial cultures to grow (bacterial filtration). Finally, there's a carbon packet that's meant to provide chemical filtration. They're all really important in an aquarium, but I rely on my plants to do the chemical filtration bit.

Now, don't get me wrong -- I've run tanks with Penguin & Aqueon & Biobag filters with the carbon already in there and it didn't kill my plants. But with my heavily planted tanks (where I've upgraded to Aquaclear filters), I have been able to completely omit the carbon component to no ill effect for my plants or my fish.

If nothing else, it reduces my operational costs. All I do is rinse out the foam insert from time to time and/or run the pumice beads under the tap to wash off the schmutz. They don't wear out (at least not in the time I've had mine running), and they shouldn't be scrubbed or sanitized, because the invisicritters that would make us sick are the things that keep the tank healthy.

The biggest thing that I've discovered to help my low-tech, low-light planted tanks look great is to take advantage of vertical planting, meaning that I get big (tall) pieces of driftwood and anchor plants all over them. That way, I end up with greenery going gangbusters at various levels without having to rely on some kind of stem plant (although Hygrophilia difformis/water wisteria is a good one) to grow upwards all the way from the bottom of the tank.

Yeah, but this is probably the only way to reduce the amount of the stuff especially since you're not sure what it is. You should take a closer look anyway and figure out if it look organic or more like dust.

It all depends on what the sponge looks like. It needs to be a shape that will make a good seal around your intake. You can use a zip tie or a clamp of some sort if you need to. And you will know it needs to be unclogged when you return flow rate goes down. I'm sure if you google DIY pre filter you'll find a lot of stuff. Filter floss is very flexible and probably easier to work with than a sponge. If I had to do it again I would probably try filter floss and a clamp to seal it.

You can also get a fluval pre filter from petco/petsmart for like $4. Probably the easiest solution if it fits around your intake.

I understand where you are coming from, up to three weeks ago we had a very small flat too (2 1/2) and our cages where taking more than half the living room/kitchen. We currently have (and had in that flat) two Double Critter Nation (http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY).

One good way of going out of the problem of small space in maybe to make your own cage bigger. Here is a link to my old cage I ''doubled'' myself'' by using two Rat Resort cages and making a hole in the bottom of the upper tray and cutting the wire of the top of the bottom cage: http://imgur.com/a/hTJra (sorry for the mess, the cage was in the basement and that flat is on the way to be emptied, so not very clean haha)!

It was pretty easy to do and gave a lot more space. The cages where quite small by themselves but it gave a lot of rattie space like that while not using too much of the house. It's probably smaller than buying a bigger cage and it was quite cost effective because I bought the second one used (look often on websites like Gumtree or Kijiji), it did the job perfectly until I could afford my 2 Double Critter Nation and had the place for it :)!

If you have any more question on how to do it, contact me, it will be a pleasure to talk about the tools needed and stuff like that!

Buy a small filter sponge. These ones are easy to mod. In some areas they've been repackaged with the Fluval branding. You should be able to get them or something similar at any LFS. Cut a small hole and secure it over the filter out take, or get one that already comes that way. Should help reduce flow and maybe give him some respite. It will also provide a little bio filtration.

Definitely should check parameters too. His scales and eye look pretty unhappy. It's hard to tell but he may be harboring a bacterial infection. If you test high in nutrients that could corroborate that hypothesis. Water changes never hurt. 10% every day will only help secure ideal conditions, and isn't that demanding in a 5g. Might even want to do a little aquarium salt to help boost gills and slime coat.

And I would get those plastic plants out of there. Bettas like to lounge on stuff, and if hes trying to lounge on those and the flow is knocking him around, that could be part of the problem. Silk or live plants will be much more gentle.

Looking at your original post...

The responses were valid advice, even if the tone may have been a bit condescending, but your responses were also very defensive and rude.


If you want to keep your water from being cloudy, upgrade to a tank with a filter. 1 gallon really isn't large enough for a betta, and they are tropical fish so should be in a heated tank.

You can pick up a pretty cheap kit that includes a light and filter.
Something like this looks nice, is adequately sized, and comes with a filter (although its not a GREAT filter, its certainly better than none) This little heater works well for a 3 gallon (which is what I linked earlier) and doesn't take up much room or look crappy in the tank.

A filter is not a cure all, you will still want to do partial water changes occasionally, and if youre having trouble with cloudy water, you may be over feeding. your fish's stomach is about the size of it's eye, it only needs 2-3 or those little betta pellets once a day, and if you want to keep 2 male bettas, you'll want to get something at least 5 gallons, and the divider should be something they cant see clearly though as it will stress them out. You can usually pick up a little 5 gallon glass tank at most pet stores for about $11, but you would need to get a filter, heater, etc seperately. Bettas are jumpers, so youd want to either leave about an inch unfilled at the top, or put some kind of lid on there.

This little filter works great for ~5 gallon tanks, and has adjustable flow. (bettas dont like a lot of current, so you wanna keep the flow on any filter pretty low for them)

Getting a siphon, or just a 2-3ft piece of fountain tubing (you can get it from any hardware store) makes partial water changes a million times easier as well. If you WANT to put forth the necessary effort to properly house and car for your fish, send me a PM and I may be able to help you out if you truly can't afford it. But if you TRULY don't have the time to screw with it, give them away to someone who does, and try again when your life situation is less stressful.

fear cuts deeper than swords

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Aww. Glad they were so generous about it.

Here's some unsolicited chewing dog advice. Take it or leave it.

With a dog that loves to chew, here's a few recommendations and a blog that is really great for hyper / anxious / chewy dogs. Goes without saying if you're already doing these things then keep on keeping on.

1. change all meals to puzzle toys like the tug jug and the wobbler. Make them work and think for their food
   
   https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Dispensing-Medium-Large/dp/B000KV7ZGQ
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ALMW0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493834636&sr=8-1&keywords=kong+wobbler
   
   
2. more exercise and consider adding a backpack like the outward hound or ruff wear. Use filled Nalgene bottles for weight for an excellent doggy workout.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B2KAACK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493834678&sr=1-3&keywords=ruffwear
   
   
   
3. More training. A trained dog is a confident happy dog. Do a new trick a month. Join a class. Etc.
   
   All this is a recipe for a less chewy dog. If they're tired both mentally and physically and are confident, unwanted behaviors like chewing and barking generally decrease.
   
   Here's the blog - 3lostdogs (dot) com

My cat is some sort of world destroyer, too. I've had success with field hockey balls and ping pong balls. While the ping pong balls don't last quite as long, they are insanely cheap. I leave them propped on shelves and things all over the house for her to find, and she basically plays teeball with them.

this is pretty much the most awesome toy ever. You can configure different shapes for the track, and while she bites it and plays rough, it's really held up well. She goes absolutely positively insane for this thing. The ball inside moves fast, and there's a slight incline at each end that will send it back to her. It's awesome. We bought a second track with hills and made a really long one. It's awesome for my super energetic cat.

The cheaper, the better.. I've bought some expensive toys in my life, but I once went to petsmart with 1 dollar, and a plan to make my cat's life better.. I ended up with this (which cost $1 at the time, and is still for sale there to this day). This lasted over 6 months before they destroyed it, and I had a box laying around, which lasted over a year.

Honestly, somehow the simpler the toy, the more they love it. Add a $2 bag of catnip, and you're done. I'm able to afford high-end cat food because the entertainment fund is so cheap. My cat's are now aged 6 and 7 years old, and act like kittens to this day.

Add Costco cat litter, and a good de-shedding brush, and life is good. I do my own vaccinations through farm supply stores, flea drops through petshed.com, and you're talking like $150 per year to own 2 cats who are healthy, vaccinated, and flea free. I still take them to the vet, but they don't ever prescribe anything more than what I already give them. I don't enjoy giving them shots, but it's so simple that anyone on a low budget could do it without a care in the world. Nobody should ever not own a cat due to "operating costs".

The cage it's self is oookay? It's kind of a small price jump from that one to the Critter Nation cage which is pretty much the best cage you can get besides making a crazy huge custom one so to me I'd just save a bit more and get the creme of the crop cage.


The wheel in the listing you've provided is dangerous for glider tails, most owners prefer the "stealth wheel". I have a stealth wheel and my gliders LOVE it, they are constantly playing on it. When I looked up the kind I had it was no longer available and it seems they've made a new version which is the one I've linked, I can't speak for it's quality as I don't have that model but it looks like the same and better plus less bulky then mine. I'm totally going to get one now that I know they exist haha


I don't know what the food they've shown is but if anyone tells you you can get by feeding gliders with only pellet food and no fresh fruits or meal worms they're trying to sell you something!


Good luck on your glider journey!

If it was me, I'd start by doing this:

• Upgrade his tank to something larger, at least 3 gallons, although something like 5 is more preferable. Despite the common misconception that bettas need a minuscule amount of space to swim around, they actually prefer larger areas. It's like keeping a horse exclusively in its stable. ...Except underwater.
  
  
• Invest in a filter (this filter requires a separate air pump but it's worth the extra cost) and a heater. Filtration and heating are necessities for bettas, and poor water quality is detrimental. Buying a water test kit will tell you everything you need to know about your fish's quality of water. If you can't afford the kit, your local fish store might be able to test the water for you if you bring a sample of it to them.
  
  
• Make sure your plastic plant is soft enough that it can't rip his fins. A good way to check is to run pantyhose over the plant, and if the pantyhose rips, the plastic is too hard. Live or silk plants are normally the way to go.
  
  I hope this helps! I know it can get a little pricey but it's more than worth it to ensure Flameo's healthy and happy.

Hell ya! Do it all the time!

Of course, this really depends on lots of things. Do you have a safe area (not too much traffic)? How stable are you in riding? How big and strong is the dog and how much do they pull?

I used to take my dog biking all the time (hold the leash in one hand and the handlebar in the other hand). He got old and couldn't run much, so I got a cargo bike and took him everywhere:

https://youtu.be/zEY7LmnY23E

Ollie passed away and we got another dog. She is a puppy and hates the cargo bike. She wants to run! She is now 2 years old and weighs 50 lbs (black lab mix). I now take her with my e-bike. Leash in one hand, the bike handle bar in the other hand. The e-bike is awesome because it has good acceleration. Sometimes she just zooms all of a sudden and I can keep up without tugging on the leash.

But I'm a strong rider. I can keep her in control while riding 20+ miles per hour on short bursts.

My girlfriend is not a strong bike rider. So we got her one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4

This ties to my girlfriend's bicycle seat post. It stretches out and holds the dog. She takes our dog for rides with this apparatus. Works pretty good! She gets to keep both hands on the handlebars.

No I have the fluval one that came with it, the pump isn't loud for me personally but it's in my kitchen so the noise doesn't bug me.

The filter output is really strong yeah, but I bought some of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2QgvDbJYGTT0K and it's baffled the flow of the two nozzles perfectly when I aim them upwards and a little bit above the water line. There's still a little bit of flow, but my betta can swim around very happily now with no issues :) Hope this helped you!

Here's what I have so far and my quick write up.

My dad started the tomato plant that I am using in soil. He had too many for his garden, so I used that instead of starting one from seed in rockwool. My next plant will be started from seed.

I picked up a 5 gal bucket and Lid from Home Depot. <$5.

I cut a hole in the Lid to fit the 3" Net Cups. I put one right in the center. I quickly found out the cup it too small to support the plant so I had to use a support stick. I just bought this 6" net cup bucket lid.

The plant is supported in Expanded Clay balls. I chose this material as apposed to 'Hydroton, Coco coir, Viagrow stones, pearlite...' because from my very little research I found the clay to be the most environmentally friendly and easiest to use, disclaimer: I could be very wrong here.

The nutrient solution used General Hydroponics Maxi Grow. Simple to use, add X scoops per X gal of water. I am about to switch to Maxi Bloom. She is flowering and starting to produce fruit. I do now know when the best time to switch solutions. I am learning by experiment here.

To keep the nutrient solution oxygenated, I used this Air pump,two of of these air stones, and tubing. Any items will do, I used this products because I know an employee of Penn Plax and got them for cost $. Any pump will work, I got a two outlet pump for future expansion.

You should also be sure to have the correct pH for your particular plant. Here is a chart and a great site. I used this pH Test Kit and pH adjust.

It's that simple. Right now the plant is outside and gets about 8 hours of sun. I plan on keeping it outside as long as possible, then will bring it in and have to choose a light source for it.


tl;dr What I used for my first DWC tomato plant experiment. Step 1: Click all links above. Step2: Buy. Step 3: Tomatoes

Edit: Also, Watch this video

I just wanted to say, it sucks that this responsibility was thrust upon you but you seem like a great person who is really trying to do the best for his betta!

I know you said you're low on money, but sometimes Petsmart or Petco will have a dollar per gallon sale so you can get a 5 gallon for $5 or 10 gallon for $10 (I actually only have a 3 gallon because I am a poor college student, but plan on upgrading as soon as I graduate).

I have a more expensive heater to keep the tank at a stable temperature but before that I used this one and a cheap thermometer.

Your betta will be ok! It seems that you are trying your best for him and bettas are more resilient than we think :)

toys:

cat dancer

the hot pursuit

cat tunnel

crinkle balls

litter:

my favorites in order are:

Arm and Hammer Seal and Clump

Ever Clean with activated charcoal (clumping)

Tidy Cats clumping

litterbox:

jumbo high-back litterbox

i would avoid covered or anything that makes the kitty feel trapped. no reason not to have tall walls, especially with sloppy kittens. you're also going to want a litter mat so they don't track it everywhere.

food:

kittens. eat. constantly. so keep out dry food 24/7 and feed a little wet food morning and night. this is temporary, don't free-feed dry food when they're an adult. you'll want to transition kitty to scheduled feedings when they're 6-8 months old, and i recommend wet food only at that point as kibble really isn't great.

my kitten has been thriving on premium edge kitten food but purina's kitten offerings look good and are a bit easier to find. with wet food supplementation. if you want, tell me your budget and i can give you some recommendations.


misc:

72" wooden cat condo - (or something like it, you definitely want something 6 ft+ for them to climb)

a tall scratching post - random one i found. tall scratchers are healthy for your cat, they have vertical muscles that need to be exercised.

cardboard scratchers - i like this one as it lasts a long time and you can flip it over for a new side.

not sure about flea meds as my cats are indoors. your vet will know what is effective in your region (some flea meds are completely useless in certain states). i would keep your cat indoors though.

He's young so it'll take a while still I imagine. In order to keep him out of her bowl we would scold him forcibly, physically move him, and occasionally squirt him (though I don't think squirting is very effective on cats in my experience). The key is is simply consistency. He'll still occasionally try to steal her food but he's pretty good about it all in all.


A laser pointer can be fun for the cat but you should use other toys. When playing, cats get satisfaction from both the chase AND the the capture of toys. Since cats can't capture laser pointers it can get frustrating really quickly. All cats are different but my cats are both obsessed with this toy. I try to get both cats interested in it and alternate with them. It can take some practice (my wife sucks at engaging them with it) but I can pretty much always get my cats' attention with it and they always want to play.
http://www.amazon.com/Cat-Catcher-Teaser-Wand-Mouse/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417628066&sr=8-1&keywords=go+cat+cat+mouse


Also, while moving definitely helped their relationship it was very stressful on both of them. Before moving I'd recommend you look up some tips about moving with cats and follow them too.

I have a 6 month old ACD mix, so we're in the same boat! They LOVE to learn new things and are very easy to train for the most part. The problem with ours is carrying those skills over to distracting environments, as he wants to pay attention to everything besides me.

Doing all you can to give him as much exercise and mental stimulation as possible will go a loooong way. If you don't, he'll probably become a terror.

If you're not making him work for his food, you're doing it wrong! Get a Buster Cube or a Tug-A-Jug or any similar food toys. It will make him think, and it might help you separate his food from the other dog's.

You need to always make him sit or down or some other command before he gets his food. I usually make mine sit, then I put the food down, and he won't go eat it until I release him. Once he can do that, it should be pretty easy to keep him from eating your other dog's food.

Do as much training with him as possible. Working his mind will wear him out pretty fast. Games like 101 Things to do with a Box really make him think. Teach a bunch of commands and give him pop quizzes by doing a bunch of them in random order for 5-10 minutes.

One cool thing I did was buy one of those big inflatable balls for kids you always see at Target or Wal-Mart in those big tall bins. He LOVES it! He herds it around the yard and wears himself out and I don't have to do anything except kick it around every once in a while. It's also really cool to see his herding instincts kick in without ever being taught how to do it.

You also need to embrace his velcro dog qualities. ACDs are great off-leash dogs because they always want to be by you. Find an empty softball field, an empty dog park, any large area with a fence, and get to work on it!

I never imagined that I would be a fish owner, but I have found myself with one, and I have a huge soft spot for all animals, so I can't stand to see them neglected so I want to provide the best home the little guy I can! Here is the list of what I've gotten so far. Let me know what you think and if I have made any mistakes!

Aquarium Rocks

He already has ~5lbs so I figure 10 lbs should cover a 5 gallon tank pretty well.

Betta Balls

Gravel Vacuum

Seachem Prime

Thermometer

Heater for 5 gallon tank

5 Gallon Tank

API Freshwater Test Kit

He already has a betta log, betta hammock, a small decorative plant, Tetra betta pellets, and some bloodworms for treats. Hopefully this covers all bases for little Zazoo! (Yes, my gf named him after the bird from the Lion King. Lol) If you have any other tips for a complete beginner, I'd love to hear them! Thank you for your suggestions!

I switched from normal bowl-feeding to [this food dispenser toy] (https://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Treat-Kibble-Dispensing-Puppy/dp/B01CP7B9L4/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468270533&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=bobalot+feeder) and my dog LOVES it. It's hilarious to watch him knock it around and he just about does cartwheels at meal times.

Is it possible to start taking your pups for walks to tire them out? Or teaching fetch to tire them out quicker in the backyard, or tug of war?

I've also been thinking about getting a [flirt pole] (https://www.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-41001-Exercise-Replacement/dp/B0042I5G2I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1468270723&sr=1-1&keywords=flirt+pole) as my dog got to play with one at our training class this weekend and about crapped his pants (he really liked it). I think the trick is to figure out what activity your dogs likes best – chewing? squeaky stuff? chasing? digging? nosework? and then finding more focused activites related to that. Good luck!

Hi,

If you are referring to this one I highly recommend!!
https://www.amazon.ca/Oster-Sunny-Seat-Window-Cat/dp/B005AUM8U0

My cat is 12 lbs. This thing holds up to 50lbs and is sturdy. Only thing was initially when he went on it he heard the velcro and got a little scared. The material moved a little but still stays in place. My cat loves it!! So great to add this to the window and easy assembly. It's also very reasonably priced. I added a little bit of catnip on it to entice him to rub against it to leave his scent.

Hope this helps! I was also skeptical so hope you enjoy it if you choose to purchase one.

I can't really comment on how well this setup could grow plants. It can probably do simple ones like Anubias and java ferns. Can't really say for other things though. If you want another setup that allows you more flexibility in plant selection keep reading.

Tanks can be found on Craigslist for quite cheap. I got a 5 gallon Fluval Chi for $15, a 20 long for $10, and a rimless 10 gallon with substrate(aquasoil eco complete mix), light (Finnex Planted+), and filter (Eheim 2211) for $80. If you live in an area with people, aquarium related items pop up pretty cheap. You can also get a new 2.5 gallon aquarium for $15 from PetSmart

You can get this filter for $15. It's really good for smaller tanks. I use it on a 2.5 gallon, but I can imagine it would work up to 5 gallon. It has flow adjustment, so it would be perfect for if you get a betta.

For lighting you could splurge and get this light for $20-$30 depending on final tank size or get a clip light and a 4 pack of light bulbs for $16. Either of these will enable you to grow plants really, really well. The LED is bright enough that if you decide to run CO2 in the future you can use the same light. It's dimmable though so it works for low tech as well!

For a substrate you can use Miracle Grow Organic Potting Mix capped with a gravel (or sand. I don't recommend sand though) of your choice. This should could ~$10. There are other options that cost more. Dirt capped with FloraMax is my go to substrate.

This is a whole tank minus plants/fish/shrimp for $55 to $75 depending on what deals you can find. Alternatively you can get a Fluval Spec V for $80. It's a fairly popular full setup. You'll still need to do something for substrate then.

I haven't seen anyone give an extensive, quick, and friendly guide so here's a quick one!

You're going to need a 5.5 gallon in order for him to thrive, otherwise you're gonna have a very unhappy fish who might live but will not be doing good. An aquarium is a tiny ecosystem in an enclosed space, so a .5 gallon gets very toxic, very quickly. It'll hurt his gills, it'll hurt his fins, just everything. The ammonia will buildup quickly and reach very dangerous levels, and although 100% water changes will decrease that, an established bacteria colony (made up of harmless ones) needs to be there for the fish to really be healthy!

When you see a happy and healthy betta, you will never want to go back!

Cheap quick solution for now: Five gallon Rubbermaid from Walmart, this filter, paired with this air pump, and this connector tube. It will run you about $20, and can hold for a while!

Long Term: Buy a 5.5 standalone aquarium tank from Petsmart (only $14.99) and a little pack of gravel, and some live plants of your choice! Check our r/aquaswap for some cheap plants from other Reddit users. Just move over the filter and heater, and you have the perfect set up! There are also some cheap lighting solutions that you can buy to help your plants grow!

Everyone gets tricked in the beginning, but making steps towards helping your betta will enhance his life so much! The whole set up, the filter/air pump/tubing and tank from petsmart, will cost you $27.48 since you've already got the heater!

If your heater is too small, I've got the link to a $6 one (which is $10 less than the cheapest at any pet store I've been to) on amazon that works perfectly and is recommended all the time on this sub.

I had a Nicrew 12-18 inch LED light on my 5 gallon for a while and it worked splendidly. Nothing spectacular, but it grew my Swords and Java Ferns. Great for low light, not so much for carpeting. Also it's cheap. But I don't know how much that matters to you.

You can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HiqIDbZ9F02HN

I've recently upgraded the tank to 10G and am now using a Finnex stingray on it. I have to say that it is one of the best lights I've ever used. It's just the right amount of light and is great for low maintenance/low light plants and high maintenance/high light plants, so it's good all around. I'm not sure if they have a model suitable for a 5 gallon but it may be worth checking out. It's a bit more expensive but worth the price IMO.

You can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAFQ6FK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hope this helps a bit OP

Adolescent regression! This happened to mine as well. I was shocked at first but asked my vet about it and she said it was normal that dogs between 4 mos- adulthood to suddenly "forget" their training because they are becoming bolder and more independent. It will just take extra and consistent effort on your part to solidify his housebreaking. Same techniques as you used to do when she was a pup- directly outside if you catch her in the middle of an accident. Frequent outdoor trips with her and praise when she goes, etc.


Interesting, I found that this is a great time to really solidify dog leash manners/ stay/ heal/ no jumping etc. It is EXTRA challenging but if you can lock these skills down during adolescence, they will likely stick through adulthood.


And for pet cleaning products that are specifically designed to remove the desire for dogs to remark, I'd use an enzymatic cleaner. Like this one.


Good luck and enjoy your pup's teenage angst. :)

I upgraded to the Midwest Deluxe Critter Nation Two Story https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NJ0DAY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like the horizontal bars, its size, the flat floor, large doors, and that you can expand it. I can only recommend it if you are willing to work on it, as it can be hard to put together and dangerous otherwise.

If the pieces were perfect, it would not be hard to put together. But some of the connections were bent and needed to be straitened, had a bad weld that made a gap, so had to be creative and a second set of hands to get it into place. It is just a one time headache and your set might be better.

For sugar gliders, you will want to not add the middle floor section, not adding it exposes holes, and then there is holes for where you can add the adjustable shelves.

The dangerous part is the holes have sharp edges, so they need to be filed smooth. Also, the punched out bit is still in the holes on most of them. They can be removed with needle nose pliers. If this is not done, I would worry about a curious sugar glider loosing a finger or whole hand...

​

The one I had before was the HQ Flight Cage https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UTZ040/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is a little smaller, but still a descent size, it has bars on the bottom and slide out floor under it, so with a bit of newspaper (or what ever you prefer) it was easy to clean it, the smaller doors can be an advantage if you have have trouble keeping the gliders inside when you open it.

I had it for three years, the main reason I replaced it is I did not like the vertical bars, even though I never had an issue, I worried about it hurting their feet, as they always slid down on the bars a bit and with the bars on the bottom, they did not have much flat ground to stand on. I also wanting something a bit larger.

Other wise, it was a great cage. It was easy to put together and the only adjustment I had to make was to zip tie shut the little bird doors on the top of it.

​

I looked into both cages, before getting them, to make sure they were not coated with anything toxic to sugar gliders, which is the main issue with cheap bird cages.

How often do you play with Finn? Does Finn have any type of routine with you in the evening?

Even though Finn has cat buddies, that doesn't mean he is entirely entertained by them 24/7. I would suggest dedicating a good 30 minutes to play time in the evenings, every day. Cats need to "hunt" every day. Finn sounds like he would really benefit from a cat toy like THIS.


Also, perhaps a different type of "watering hole". Cats like to think that they are drinking fresh water. Think about it like nature... cats in the wild tend to drink from bodies of water that are at least, slightly, moving. Still water breeds sickness. Maybe try THIS.

If those options don't work.. try the vet.

Your best bet would to be use something like this sponge filter as it not only will prevent inadvertent fish chumming, but will also act as a second media for beneficial bacteria to grow.

If that is either too much of an eyesore or it inhibits your flow too much, use a mesh screen like this to prevent Khuli sushi.

Also, sorry for your loss, Khulis are sweeties! Try Zebra Botia (Loaches) as well, they're great for small tanks and click extremely loudly when excited!

Best advice is to take your time and buy what will make you happy. You'll only spend more money in the long run if you compromise now. Luckily, not everything needs bought at once. Tank, filter, and heater are necessary purchases now. Lighting and decor can be figured out more slowly.

I can recommend what I'd get in your position.

If you're going to buy a kit, this is a good one. Personally, I like this heater, but they do sell a cheaper version. So, about $100 for the tank, heater, filter, and light.

If you want to buy the parts separately, you can get a 10 gallon tank for $10-$15 or cheaper checking craigslist. You'll also need some kind of lid to cover the tank. You can buy glass ones or some people get a piece of glass or acrylic cut to cover it. Tank + lid: $25-$30

Aquaclears are my favorite filters for my tanks, but you could use a sponge filter. You'd need an air pump for the sponge one. So, $20-$25 for a filter.

Real plants are nice, but not necessary. You can do fine with fake ones, just make sure the edges aren't sharp. If you do want plants, the Spec V light should be plenty for low light plants. If you want to buy the light separately, this or this would be fine. I've had a Nicrew one on my larger tank before and it's enough for low light plants.

Or you could just get a clamp on lamp from the store and a daylight bulb. That whole set up would be about $10.

Until you get a new set up, I would recommend water changes at least once a day, if not more. I would also strongly recommend buying a water testing kit.

It's not bad, but I would HIGHLY recommend that you get a larger aquarium, at least five gallons. For example. It is even on sale and comes with an overflow filter. A larger tank ensures that the betta will have enough space to swim and help you to maintain the tank as a larger volume of water is more forgiving in terms of water parameters. Also I would get different plants, this is because the ones that you listed are plastic and plastic plants will often have sharp edges that could damage the long fins of a betta. Instead get silk plants as they won't damage the fins. Also with the gravel you are getting, it is a very small amount, so either get more bags of it or go to your lfs, petco, petsmart or even walmart and see for yourself. Also the water conditioner you are planning to get is only 50mL which is really small, you might as well get a medium sized bottle instead of having to buy multiple small ones, save some $$. But otherwise everything is good.
Also, since this is your first aquarium, please do lots of research(if you already have then great). Especially look into "how to cycle your aquarium"
Sorry for writing so much lol.

FYI, I have one of these, and I absolutely love it. It's a little nicer than a leash, in that it keep my pup right where he needs to be next to my bike - not too close, not too far. Leash works ok, I suppose, but I like the bar. In any case, hope you have fun, I know mine loves bike rides.

https://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466175470&sr=8-1&keywords=walkydog

As some others have said, that plant is Anubias. That hairy stuff is algae and the brown crud looks like diatoms which is common in new tanks. The "suckerfish" (on the underside of that leaf) you have looks to be some sort of plecostomas which don't eat really anything but certain types of green algae. They aren't algae scrubbers like the old school of thought suggests. I would suggest getting some nerite snails. They cannot breed in fresh water so you won't have explosion of them.

Also, as others have said, get a timer and start keeping your lights on a schedule. Start at 8 hours on and the rest off. You can set it to be whenever you like if you want to enjoy it so you could start it at Noon and push it to 8 pm or however you like. That will help the plants "out compete" the algae.

Finally, get a filter. I have an Aquaclear filter with a pre-filter sponge to keep shrimp out of it. This will also help disturb the surface to keep surface bacteria managed and increase gas exchange at the surface ensuring you have enough oxygen.

Yes, /u/drusual is a super swell guy!

Yes, isn't it awesome?! It is made very well and is super sturdy!

I bet your kitty loves it!

Ahhh, thank youuu!

First, I would remove the male, leaving only the gravid female. Assuming the eggs are fertile, you'll slowly see them develop over the next few weeks until you can begin to see little crayfish inside each one. I don't think you need to swap out your filter; I prefer covering the intake with a sponge pre-filter (e.g.). I say this because you're going to want to keep your tank clean while minimizing water changes which could lead to you sucking up tiny crayfish.

Once you get to the point where eye spots develop in the eggs (two little black dots), you'll know the eggs are close to hatching. Monitor them closely as you'll want to remove the female shortly after the babies hatch and begin to move around freely. If you don't remove the female, she'll eventually eat the babies.

Once the babies are on their own, it's pretty easy. I feed them like I do adult crayfish, except that I grind the food up a little bit. For example, ground up algae wafers are always welcome. Make sure you provide plenty of hiding places for them to seek shelter when they molt, which they will do very frequently at first.

Good luck and keep us posted!

I think everyone reaches a point when they just feel like they have had enough, you simply tossed him into another room where it was okay for him to throw up. You didn't throw him up against a wall, smack/hit him or try to hurt him on purpose you wanted him out of the room and if he wasn't getting out himself it was kind of like an instinct to toss him into the other room. I don't see it hurting him at all and I am sure he landed on his feet just fine, you'd be surprised the height cats can fall from and be perfectly fine.

How are they toy wise? Maybe you could buy one or two of those interactive cat toys, like this or this to help keep them more engaged with each other and with a toy so they don't feel so needy?

I really like these filters
http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM

for a 30 gallon tank you'd want one capable of up to 50 gallons or so.

Theyre great because of the three separate cartridges- Also, ignore the packaging, you can reuse the sponge and the ceramic rings indefinitely unless a terrible awful disease breaks out. So this filter saves you money too!!

Edit: Puffers are usually too big/aggressive/brackish to include in a tank like this. Unless you had mollies/platys which have a high salt tolerance. Cories have zero salt tolerance tough.

Some of my favorite community fish are Galaxy Rasbora or Celestial Pearl Danio (same fish) I also like Badis. Theyre anabantids(sp) like the Betta.

I'd also highly recommend live plants. they really make you look good. Aquariumplants.com has total and trace substrate pellet fertilizer which Is pretty good at keeping them well fed.

My boyfriend used to get his boxer mix to pull him on a longboard when he was a kid to exercise his dog and it was great fun!

Biking can definitely be a bit safer if you use a specialized biking attachment like this to make it harder for the dog to topple you over.

With any pulling sport it's a good idea to get basic directional and stop commands in (especially if you don't have brakes like on a bike). We plan on doing pulling sports with our next dog and are shopping around for good harnesses to make sure he stays safe.

I’d be interested to see if he was actually being “aggressive” or if he was just playing. As stated earlier pits have extremely high pain tolerances. (But they do in fact feel pain). I have bruises and one pretty gnarly scar from playing with mine who is about 80 lbs. Mostly, it happens when we go out to play fetch. He gets over worked and extremely excited and starts to come at me instead of the toy.

My suggestion: shut it down quickly. Simply grab the collar and get him to sit down, and don’t let him move until he is calmed down. The more you push, hit and kick, the harder he is going to try to bring you down, because that is how pits play, by trying to pin each other. Hitting your dog is never the answer.

Get or make a flirt pole , as it creates a greater distance between you the dog and the toy, which will help keep his attention focused on the toy and not on you.

Looks like you have a good list going, remember to update your pups microchip with your address and get him/her a tag with your details.

We got a 36 inch crate and it's plenty big for our boy (he's around 30 pounds).

Puppia harness is a great starter harness, it's soft and doesn't have a bunch of metal jingling pieces which our puppy HATED on his harness our breeder gave us.

Kibble, check out dog food advisor for reviews and ratings of foods content, we were using grain free salmon and sweet potato from chicken soup for the soul, it's decently priced and well rated I can't find it anywhere atm so we're switching him back to their normal kibble.

Salmon Oil is a lifesaver in the winter, our pup gets terribly dry skin and extremely itchy without it.

Start out with a puppy kong, they sell kong fillers that are cheese and peanut butter flavored, our puppy was pretty picky at first and only ate the cheese one, didn't like frozen kongs either.

I'd start with a Basic Collar here's a Dog Tag Silencer and a Break-away collar for outdoors or dog park. A dog was choked unconscious at our park so I typically just keep our guys ID tags on his harness and don't use a collar, but if you do I definitely recommend a break-away if you are primarily using a harness with it.

Items we found useful: Bed Liner, Crate Fence, Kong, Stainless Steel Bowls (highly reccomend US made do not buy any made in China for health reasons), Zippy Paws Hide and Seek toys, Potty/accident cleaner, Potty Bells, Anti-chew Bitter Apple spray, 50 ft Leash, Retractable Leash, Soft stop Leash extender, Car Seat Belt, Car Booster Seat, Gentle Shampoo, Comb, Travel Water Bottle, Flirt Pole, Special Treats, Chew Stick, Greenies

Sorry for the HUGE list lol, feel free to ask any questions!

There are some devices for attaching the dog to the bike. I think this one is really popular. Some people just attach the leash to a bungee on their handlebars (but they tie the bungee a special way so it won't come off but still absorbs some force). I don't actually know anything about training a dog to run beside the bike but someone on here will have a good answer and tips. You can't really make them run a lot until they're over a year (or year and a half)because their bones are still growing and you don't want them to damage anything. After that, it's fair game!

If he responds negatively to other dogs, the trainer should be knowledgeable enough to help him get over it an work in a class setting. We had two or three dog aggressive dogs in our classes or trials and they never had a problem; we could all learn/compete without a dog fight or major disruption. It's a good socialization opportunity, too. It's going to be really great for him and for you! :D

1- I’m aware of the window issue, but my house is full of windows (no complaints there!) and there wasn’t a better spot. That window is north facing and we rarely open the blinds.
2- except for the somewhat impulse bought setup I’m over planning.
3- substrate is sand and river stones.
4- I’m probably going with no background anyways, just out of laziness. I like the light strip idea.
5- definitely going with real plants
6- obviously. :) I have a dumbo plakat
7- I’m 100% getting corys. Do the different types have different personalities or just coloration? I’m leaning towards panda. I’m probably getting Harlequin Rasboras. I’m considering a snail because of the window/algae situation. I’m going to stock it really slowly though.
8- it came with a light.
9- already bought this filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kbSaBb411RKF2
10-13- already done
14- probably going with a floating log (or two)
15- I might use the small tank I’m moving my betta out of for shrimp.
16- will do. In the small tank I have I use a turkey baster as a “vacuum”, that’s not going to work anymore. Haha.

I’ll definitely post updates :)

I guess for first tanks, start kits seems like the easiest way to go. From my experience to save some money are (although with this hobby, you can't save that much money, haha) to buy the tank during the Petco sale, and buy all the equipment online (Amazon is a good place).

So if you buy each part separately:

$29 = 29G tank -Petco

$10 = Heater -Amazon

$15 = Whisper 30 -Amazon

$15 = [DIY Sliding Aquarium Top] (http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-50-Watt-Heater/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396577787&sr=8-2&keywords=tetra+heater)


$69 = Total

Not much more expensive than the kit. The 29G comes with a mail in rebate that I'm don't know if it works with your purchases online or not. If it works, you'll get back $10 for the filter and $4 for the heater. Bringing your total to $55.

I would actually buy a more powerful filter than the one included. Probably one rated for two times stronger. A lot of people like aquaclear filters - I don't have personal experience with it but I will buy one next time I need a filter.

You're going to need stronger lights anyways, so I didn't include the light costs.

This is just my opinion! You can do what you'd like for your tank :)

Easy solution to trash digging is to simply get a locking trashcan or put the trashcan in a place the dog cannot access.

From the way the dog acts it sounds like he isn't getting nearly enough exercise and or mental stimulation. Just because you have a big yard doesn't mean you don't have to exercise your dog. Especially if you just let him out and expect him to "play with himself". I have a fairly nice sized fully fenced yard and my GSD still gets 3 walks a day plus interactive playtime with me about once a day.

If your dog isn't interested in tug, fetch or frisbee, then the next step would be to run your dog. If you aren't in the best physical shape then what you can do is buy a cheap bike and purchase a Walky, run him for even just 20-30 minutes hard and I guarantee you his unruly behavior will decrease. I will note though, since he's a large breed dog I would wait at least until he's 12-15 months old to start doing this, as you can damage his joints by exercising him too hard before his joints have fused. Also get a kong, you can keep him occupied for at least 45min-1hr by putting peanut butter in it, freezing it, and then giving it to him.

I'd also recommend crate training him so that if you don't want him around guests you can crate him and you know he's safe. You can also crate him when nobody is home to guarantee your property and your dog's safety. Another thing you can do is buy a tie out and put it in the middle of the yard so he can't smash and paw on the door.

I'd definitely second getting a trainer to help you with his behavior in general though, it sounds like you aren't communicating with him in a way that clicks with him (remember, every individual will respond differently to different training methods), a seasoned trainer with lots of experience will probably be able to teach how to
communicate with him in a way that let's you communicate what you want him to do.

Lastly, you need to be patient with him, the Akita is a breed known for being very stubborn and hard to train, so you have to remember to manage your expectations. Just be consistent with what the trainer tells you to do and you will see results.

I have 2 puppies right now. One is very much like tax, the other is very calm and relaxed.
He's probably bored and needs to get rid of energy. You could walk him around your house on a leash, that would get him better used to the leash and you being a leader, also gives him something to do and releases energy. Make sure he's paying attention to you while you do it.
Make sure he has plenty of toys and things to do. The best toy to keep my 2 occupied has been this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KV7ZGQ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

You can fill it with treats or food and they have to work at getting it out

Firstly, get your dog neutered. There are places that will do this at discount rates (look for mobile spay/neuter clinics in your area) or local shelters/humane societies. Google it. There is no reason to not neuter your dog (unless you are a certified breeder and you intend to breed this dog).

This is something that my trainer told me that I found really helped - by the time you've seen a dog or person on your walk, your dog has likely been aware of them for some time, either through his superior sense of smell or hearing. This means that as soon as you see a person, you need to start looking at his body cues (See Here and Here) and then react appropriately by redirecting or distracting. My own GSD (female, spayed, 1.5 years old) is almost always in the 'alert' or 'unsure' stage when she sees another dog while we are walking.

As for the other stuff, it sounds like you need to go back to basics. Find a treat or a toy that he really likes and use that to train and only to train (meaning he will not get it unless you are walking/training). For my dog, training treats consist of boiled chicken, string cheese, or hot dogs (depending on what is at hand) but sometimes even this doesn't work. The only toy that she goes consistently bonkers for is a flirt pole. Start off by training a heel command indoors. When he heels consistently inside (without being lured by treats) you can move it outside. Stick to just in front of/behind your house at first, then move to longer walks as he gets more and more consistent with the behavior.

Other than that, consider getting a 30 foot leash (like others have said) and play play play right before going for a walk. Use play time to train cues such as 'drop it' and 'stay'. I also recommend looking up some trainers on youtube (Zak George, Kikopup, Victoria Stilwell). Its not the same as having a professional trainer, but it does help a lot.

As stated in title, Fishy is the newest member of our household.

My first instinct was to read up on bettas and in doing so, found this subreddit.

I have several doubts, such as:

• what kind of betta is this?
  
  
• Is it healthy? (Ive seen more vibrant colors on pics posted here)
  
  
• Can/Should I pair it with other fish?
  
  
• Are pellets preferred over flakes?
  
  As per suggestions on this sub, I think buying a bigger tank is my number 1 priority; im currently looking into a Tetra Tank (3 Gallons), this one is favored by my wife, as she finds its aesthetically pleasing (and I agree). However, most people suggest a 5 Gallon tank, so Im also looking into a GloFish Tank, we both dislike the blue led on this model and the black plastic lid it comes with.
  
  In any case, we're also looking to buy the following:
  
  
• heater
  
  
• Thermometer
  
  
• Silk plant
  
  
• Log/Hiding spot
  
  
• Filter * which we think we would only buy if we get the Tetra Tank, as per amazon commenters suggestions.
  
  We already have a net (for scooping), drops to dechlorinate water, aquarium salt (for cleaning) and what you see already in the tank.
  
  Please help us give this fish an awesome life!
  
  PS.: We are not in the US, if it even matters.

1. What are the dimensions of the tank? You can tell the volume from that.
   
2. Styrofoam goes under the tank, not in it. It's also completely unnecessary if you have a rim on the tank.
   
3. There's not really an 'unsafe' amount of rock. Water is also extremely heavy and the tank holds that, so any reasonable amount should be just fine as well.
   
4. The best filter for a beginner on a tank that size is hands down an Aqua Clear 50, in my opinion. It will run quietly as long as you keep the water level nice and full.
   
5. Don't buy fish store brand lights if you want plants. Invest a little bit of money in something from Finnex (planted series) that will last forever and are designed from the ground up to grow aquarium plants.
   
6. Night mode is just low-light blue LEDs most of the time. It's essentially simulated moonlight. I personally do not use any lighting at night. The Finnex Planted 24/7 has a built in, automatic night mode.
   
7. Yes, 8-10 hours is pretty normal. Less light means less algae, and yes your lighting needs will depend on hardscape and plant choices.

This is my cat Stonewall (yes my reddit name is after her) I adopted her from a shelter 2 years ago & fell in love. [Here](<a href="http://imgur.com/JC3eyt8"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/JC3eyt8.jpg" title="Hosted by imgur.com"/></a>) she is when I first got her from the shelter in the "get to know you room"
This is a good toy for her or this to help with grooming because she sheds so much!
Since I am a cat person I would want to spend the day with Viktor the Hypnocat. I think a laser would be a great toy for Viktor!
I want to be friends with Hanners and Viktor!

No problem, it was my planned set up until my betta moved in. :c

I'd recommend something more like an aquaclear and a sponge on the end. Or if you really like canisters and have the money to spend I'm in love with these. Just put in whatever media you like (it comes with the basics of ceramic rings, sponge, and carbon) and then you secure one of these to the intake. Just make sure to get the pre filter sponge in person, it's cheaper at petco I believe.

If none of those I'd suggest a sponge filter. It's easier to keep baby shrimp alive and not getting sucked into the filter than an in tank filter. Especially if some are occasionally getting nabbed.

The best way to prevent doggy messes is to immediately start crate training. Get your dog used to the crate, and over time you can slowly let your dog have a bit more freedom in the apartment. And if he's out for play or hanging out then you have to supervise him and hopefully distract him and take him outside if you see him about to start his business.

You can get an odor/stain remover and have that handy for accidents. As far as killing the carpet, you have to let them know that there are better, more fun alternatives.

Zak George's Dog Training youtube channel is a good place to start learning, imo. But honestly, I can't stress crate training enough. You have to teach the dog where it's okay to go.

That cat sounds like he needs play and his own space.

Since you have no option but to live with this cat you could probably fix this behavioral problem yourself. Play the aggression out of him for about 10 to 15 minutes a day. (Play until he's tired.) You could use a laser pointer or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cat-Catcher-Teaser-Mouse/dp/B000LPOUNW. (It should go without saying don't use your hands and teach the cat that hands are toys.)

If you can afford it, get some cat furniture near a window. (Or just make a space for him on a shelf near a window.)

Reinforce good things and good vibes whenever he's near you. Carry treats and give them to him. (Don't use your hands at first unless he's played out.) Slowly work up to petting him.

If there are other cats then it could also be anxiety about those cats. In that instance all of these things apply but the importance of establishing a safe territory (either with or without the other cats) becomes important.

Every cat is different as to what they want to play with. Some acts like fast prey, others like to do sneak attacks. Some like air prey like birds and some prefer their toys on the ground, like mice. This toy sends most of my cats into a mad playing frenzy

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cat-Catcher-Mouse-Wand-maker/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1496066031&sr=1-1&keywords=Da+bird

And a lot of people have brilliant success with laser pointers. Treat balls, where you put the treats inside and they have to work out how to get them out, are also a popular one.

Basically, just try lots of different types of toys and you'll find one he likes... and then you'll be stepping on it and retrieving it from under the sofa for all eternity.