Reddit mentions: The best plasma cutting equipment

Not sure what you are thinking but it would be cool to have each table at the reception done in a movie theme. Here is a quick rundown on what I would suggest:

Indiana Jones

• Indy hat like this from amazon for about 15 after shipping.
  
• Bull Whip to go with it for another $5.
  
  Back to the future
  
  
• I would make the hoverboard out of some plywood, or you can buy a prop version for about 50.
  
• Could also pick up the hat from the second movie for about 20
  
  Ghostbusters
  
  
• Best prop is of course the Proton pack, you can get some cheap ones off amazon but they look like crap, I would suggest making it, lots of tutorials out there for it.
  
• A scale model of the Ecto-1 might be a better and easier solution.
  
  Old School Horror Depending on how old school you want to go, are we talking black and white (Frankenstein, creature from the black lagoon, dracula) old school, or newer old school like Friday the 13th?
  
  
• B&W - Simple props like bolts and plasma sphere could be enough to get a Frankenstein vibe, or fake vampire teeth.
  
  
• For newer old school, jasons mask with a fake knife, or freddy's hand would work well.
  
  Note if you are thinking about decorating the tables some fake old film reel sections like this could even have the props sitting on old film reel would work well to tie all the tables together.

I work with a firm that makes prototypes for Mass production. My fabrication abilities are mostly in the realm of proof of concept and tolerancing. Because of this we need clean/mechanical smoothness on cuts. I primarily use the plasma with "torch assists" to make the job easier.

I use tools like the [ Swag Offroad] (https://www.amazon.com/Plasma-Circle-Cutter-Small-1-0/dp/B00LBFPDQO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522549209&sr=8-4&keywords=Plasma+cutter+guide) circle cutter, [circle and square guides] (https://www.amazon.com/Plasma-Stencil-Circle-Cutter-Guide/dp/B00OCH0JMQ/ref=pd_sbs_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00OCH0JMQ&pd_rd_r=900F3KBQPFKE4QZ4PCA3&pd_rd_w=Uagli&pd_rd_wg=Nxq0b&psc=1&refRID=900F3KBQPFKE4QZ4PCA3), and a set if [magnetic straight edge holder] (https://www.amazon.com/Plasma-Cutter-Holder-Straight-Stencils/dp/B077YY8XD3/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522549346&sr=1-5&keywords=Magnetic+plasma+guide&dpID=41ifDyHjNTL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch) for the majority of my work. For proof of concept we stick to combining geometric shapes for ease of building and laying out shapes. I prefer to Tig my assemblies, but you can mig them.

One designer started using a laser cutter for slot style welded sub assembly's. Look at the [certi-flat] (https://weldtables.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0qyqm4OY2gIVE7bACh3FNAdeEAAYASAAEgK99_D_BwE) welding tables and how they assemble together. If you can cut a groove you can make simple slot and groove assemblies. Also, the table is clutch for teaching about jigs (a jig always makes the job betttter) and as a general welding table.

I use a 220v Miller machine that is rated to 5/8" thick, but we never go past 3/16-1/4". It makes for quick and easy work. From an industry standpoint it's much safer - specifically no bottles and no "open flame". There are Sparks so the area needs to be prepped for significant potential for spray.

My next purchase will be a 4x4 plasma table to cut small pieces (laser cutting starts at $1200/sheet) for prototype. You can use the exact same equipment do to repeatable small scale fabrication and Mass production.

Let's put it this way, if you can teach a fabricator how to work in 2D to make something 3D, you've taught that person a valuable skill. Tthe option of a plasma CNC also opens the doors to guys who are good with computers but not so hand eye coordinated.

While Oxy/Fuel will always be around, plasma is what will prepare them the best.

That's interesting that it doesn't have adjustments. Of course, with built-in air it's likely designed to be a product for people who want something basic, and don't want to fiddle with things themselves.

Personally I dislike plasma cutters with onboard air; I find that their best utility is in a field where you have a generator but no compressor. For regular shop duty, I want mine on shop air. I can better control air pressure and quality, and shut off air at the source to bleed the lines when I'm done.

The cut photo you posted does look pretty normal. I wouldn't worry too much about that but, yes, there is a technique and it can be tricky! You might want to look into one of these (make sure you find the right one for your model, or make one yourself):

https://www.amazon.com/Miller-233321-Stand-Off-Plasma-Electric/dp/B0057RDVZM

That will help you get the correct standoff between your torch and the work surface. As far as getting the pilot arc to light consistently, well, that's different. That could be in a consumable or in a piece of hardware. Given the way that cup/nozzle looks you could stand to replace the consumables anyway.

Thanks!
Resources:
1.) Everlast Powerpro 205 (1500usd, I had to buy it myself, so it was a large chunk of my savings). I will post a pic of the setup here shortly, just a garage shop. Will clean first, sick today, so probably this weekend... Anyways, http://www.amazon.com/Everlast-PowerPro-Welder-Plasma-Cutter/dp/B0081BF0VY.)
2.) Garage shop, as mentioned.
3.) Supportive parents that have a LOT of money.
4.) Supportive professionals (biopharm orbital welders, Instructors at NE School of Metalwork)
5.) People willing to give me first jobs, pay good money.
6.) The internet (YouTube, Lanse & Jody, if you reddit, thank you)
7.) TBC if I think of others in the next post...

My concepts for Nature Release Rasengans.

---

Fire Release: Rasengan - A rotating, transparent sphere with a small center of compressed heat inside. When slammed against a target, the pressurized fire inside shifts off balance, causing it to explode outwards. Spreads the tearing rotation of the Rasengan while adding explosive power to it. Dangerous to the user.

Water Release: Rasengan - Looks like a bubble of water, spinning rapidly. When slammed against a foe, the water ripples; this causes small waves to rise up and, at the speed the water is rotating, turns them into small, flat blades that gouge out flesh with each rotation. Will also gouge out portions of the users hand with each spin.

Earth Release: Rasengan - Deceptively small, looks like a tiny pebble rotating above the users hand. Is, in fact, incredibly dense, allowing it to carve through any material. Due to it's small size, it is best used for critical / vital spots, such as piercing internal organs. Capable of holding it's own shape until pressed against a target, at which point friction will slowly alter it's course after the first few inches - causing the remaining momentum to fire the pebble in a random direction, including back at the user.

Lightning Release: Rasengan - A crackling orb of rotating lightning. While the lightning itself cannot pierce through targets easily, the rotation allows it to shred through simpler armors (such as flak vests) to access exposed flesh. On contact, the electricity operates as a reversed electromagnet, sucking electricity from the bodies of anything it contacts - causing paralysis and epileptic flashes, and possibly death. Discharges the collected electricity into the holder, potentially electrocuting them.

---

Now, what about combining bloodline releases? That's where the real oomph is. Anyone thinking Byakugan Gentle Fist Style: Rasengan Fingers?

Ah, older oxidized welds are harder to judge. You can't just wire-brush tubing clean, unless it's a scale-less, ie: machined or sand blasted. busting through scale is especially important for mig. Your beads would have been completely shiney, as opposed to that black oxidized look.

You should definitely invest in a better regulator. I've seen guys talk about this one but have never used it:

http://www.amazon.com/Argon-Flowmeter-Regulator-Welding-Welder/dp/B00CBIZWY8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1413421506&sr=8-4&keywords=argon+flow+meter

There's plenty of adjustable flow-meters on amazon for under $50, but again, buyer beware.

$360,000, according to Amazon. It's actually a $360 oxy/fuel welding setup, but Amazon's "add to wishlist from anywhere" thing pulled it over with the wrong price.

The actual most expensive thing is nothing redonkulously expensive like a car, but still going to take me some time to save up for this Plasma Cutter. That's after buying a welding machine first.

I'm going to school for welding/fabricating, then starting a small shop. A plasma cutter will cut anything with a fair degree of accuracy. Without it, I would have to buy several other pieces of equipment that are much more expensive, take up a ton more space, and only do one or two things each. I'd have to have a bigger workspace, so my plan of starting out in my garage would go right out the window.

If I didn't get it, I'd be ok, but it would affect my business plan. I'd either have to get the other machines, pay another shop to do cuts for me, or limit myself to smaller projects.

Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds is a great song.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0153ICJS4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_pztWCbYREGYQ2

They look similar to this set, but most off brand kits look like these

You are correct, I don't know why I thought it was 30a. I think the "also bought with" outlet was 30a and I just assumed. The outlet will be 3ft away from the subpanel, so wire size and running wires is negligible, in that case should I go with 6ga wire there too? Will I be ok with a 50a welder on a 60a subpanel if the only other thing running are LED lights? I wont be able to run that as a plasma cutter with an air compressor unless I upgrade my main panel to 200a and upgrade the subpanel, right?

something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-3746-Grinding-Shield/dp/B004I6RPUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503956548&sr=8-1&keywords=Welding+face+shield

this one is labeled #8

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-4178IRUV8-Propionate-Faceshield-Fiber-Metal/dp/B009JCBYE6/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1503956654&sr=1-1&keywords=plasma+cutting++face+shield

This one gets good reviews but looks like the lip on the top would block you from opening the spool door.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00440DVE4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Hypertherm-127103-Operator-Shield-Helmet/dp/B00VJWWNDA

Use your grey matter. Sigh. Shall we begin?

• r/lockpicking
  
• lock picking kits
  
• locksmith
  
• sledge hammer
  
• heavy duty hammer
  
• normal hammer
  
• chisels
  
• air hammer
  
• Dremel
  
• circular saw
  
• rotary cutter
  
• plasma cutter
  
• acetylene torch
  
• hydrogen peroxide (oxidizer)
  
• bolt cutter
  
• crowbar
  
• water jet cutter
  
• laser cutter
  
• thermite
  
• metal disintigration
  
• prayer
  
• get creative
  
  Did I miss any? No? Good. Post an update when you get the thing open.

PT60 😉

Electrode Tip 1.1mm Nozzle 0.043'' for Forney Plasma 250P Plus 325P 700P Plasma Cutter Torch QTY-22: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
https://www.amazon.com/Electrode-Nozzle-Forney-Plasma-Torch/dp/B07MLF7Z17

Buy a cheap plasma cutter. You’ll have it open in an hour or so.

plasma cutter

Mighta been a lil rust. Nothing too major though. DC, I was using this welder.