Reddit mentions: The best playstation accessories

> Here's some background. I grew up all my life as a Nintendo bloke.

If you played Nintendo games mostly (or N64 more so) expect a different feel to the games. The standout hits have an edgy, mature appeal to them... even the colorful platformers. There are some multi-plats between the PS1 and N64, but the differences in hardware made very different libraries of games. The large disk space of PlayStation CDs and the cheap CD format itself made it more desirable for 3rd-party developers, so if you are going to collect, expect lots of varity of good quality games. That being said, don't be afraid to try out different genres of games, you are sure to find greatness anywhere. Good luck.

> First of all, as seasoned PS1 experts, do you have any recommendations on controller/memory card/wire brands? That's one thing.

For Controllers, I recommend at least one of each of the standard ones. "The Non-Analog/D-Pad Only" style is perfect for Platformers and RPGs that don't really utilize analog anyway. Even for games before 1998 that don't have analog I'd recommend playing with this controller since using an Analog Controller-type controller's d-pad feels weird being that those kind of controllers were designed for analog games.

Speaking of analog controllers, don't skip on "The Dual Analog Controller". It was the first one for PlayStation and most people don't even remember it since it was only in stores for like 8 months or something. It can be a little pricey/hard to find, but not anymore expensive than any Xbox 360 pad out there. It's a great controller and also an interesting artifact since it's design is much bigger than anything Sony's ever made. Plus, it has concave sticks, something Sony didn't do again until the Dual-Shock 4 controller. It's my favorite controller to play with, but with only downside: no rumble...

...But that's what the "Dual-Shock 1" remedies. It's something I imagine you have already played with, so nothing new here. Just the most well-rounded controller out of the whole bunch; all kinds of color designs to pick from.

If you want a Light Gun, go Namco. there isn't any official Sony Light Gun, but the Namco one is the better quality one and the most common one out there.

As for anything else (Fighting Stick, Driving Wheel, Flight-stick, etc.) I'll leave that up to you since I don't own any and don't know much about them.

For Memory Cards, there really isn't much to pick from. 1MB (or 15 blocks of memory) is all there is to pick from for size. I'd recommend getting 4 or 5 in bulk on eBay or something. Only because some games saves take up more than just 1 block out of the 15.

For Wires/Connectors, same as the cards... not much to pick from. Some extender cables for the controllers would be good if your playing from far away but as for video cables standard Composite is the best image quality your going to get... unless you can get RGB Scart or something like that to work with it. There's no Component you can get for it as the system doesn't support 480 resolution. I'd recommend hooking it up to a CRT TV instead of an HDTV if possible.

> Second of all, and the most important, what games do you recommend?

> Anyway, I like platformers. And I like open world games where you get to jump about and collect items and whatnot. Love the Sonic the Hedgehog series.

Well then Crash Bandicoot is right up your alley! Classic platformer and Sony's mascot during the PS1 era. The first game can be expensive, but the second and third games are cheaper and the third supports analog. More of the same in each iteration but some extras thrown in. Also get Rayman. It's a launch title from way back in 1995, and hard as hell. I haven't played the second, but from what I hear it's pretty solid. Spyro The Dragon is another classic Sony mascot from this time. Just like Crash, there's a second and a third game with same-y gameplay with extras. That series of games is more like an open-world game compared to Crash though.

> I also have a fond appreciation for racing games.

Well there's the flagship racing franchise for Sony: Gran Turismo. It's more like a deep racing sim that can be slow to get into, but ends up being very addicting to play. For a more standard racing experience, Ridge Racer is a good one. It's actually the oldest game on the system, launching way back 1994 in Japan. there's also 3 sequels: Revolution, Rage, and R4. Crash Team Racing is like a Mario Kart clone and a pretty good one too.

> I love Street Fighter games, but I don't really know any other great fighting series.

Besides the Alpha games that you listed, there's also the Collection 1 & 2 games. that contain near-perfect Arcade ports of a handful of Street Fighter games. Be wary, they can be hard to find/expensive. Assuming your a Street Fighter fan, I'd also assume you don't like Mortal Kombat all the much, but if you want to get a game, go with Mortal Kombat Trilogy. It's basically a mash-up of the first three games characters in the third game's style. The Tekken series is also a good classic. It's not a tight 2-D fighter with the same level of technical mastery, but a ton of fun to play. the first game comes with Galaga, and the third is loaded with content and unlockables. However I have a very personal hardcore recommendation: Bushido Blade. remember how I said you should explore different genres? this is a good start. It's a fighting game with one-hit kills and a very tight movement system with a variety of weapons to pick from. Super competitive to play with a friend, and tons of fun.

> I've looked on the standard "50 best games" lists on the net, but none of them seem to really satisfy me.

Like I said before, don't be afraid to try new things. You had put in your list Final Fantasy 7 which is a great RPG and should be played at least once, but the PS1 had tons and tons of great RPGs on it. If you have plenty of time (and money in some cases regarding the rarity of some of these games) try out some other RPGs such as Vagrant Story, Suikoden, Chrono Cross, Xenogears, and Grandia just to name a few.

Besides that I have a few more personal recommendations based on my preferences:

• Metal Gear Solid: huge fanboy here. A game you have to play at least once. classic game with a great, timeless story. the gameplay hasn't aged all that well, but the stealth works well and the boss battles are great. My personal favorite on the system; I have beat it at least a dozen times or so.
  
• Tenchu: Stealth Assassins: Just like MGS, it's a stealth game, but with much better freedom of movement and mechanics. Hiding in the shadows, and moving slowly wins over blunt force. almost as good as Thief on PC in terms of raw stealth gameplay at the time.
  
• Resident Evil: Great series of tank-control style horror games. If you get pasted the awful voice-acting and get used to the tank controls, it's a lot of fun (well, if your into inventory management).
  
• Silent Hill: An alternative to RE; much more better to control, and much more atmospheric. Genuinely terrifying.
  
• Twisted Metal: A power-trip of exploding vehicles. One of the most "raw-fun" games I've every played; go for the first and second games; avoid the third and forth (the original devs split up and a sports game studio made the last two on PS1).
  
• Final Fantasy: Anthology/Chronicles/Origins : These three game compilations contains all but one (FF3) of the classic FF games with updated 2-D graphics plus it contains Chrono Trigger.
  
• DOOM & FINAL DOOM: My username says it all... but really these are the best console ports of DOOM in my opinion. no music; just ambiance and a dark atmosphere with great lighting effects.
  
• Wipeout: Futuristic racing game series similar to F-Zero, but much harder. All the games have great licensed soundtracks of some excellent 90's EDM (Chemical Brothers, The Prodigy, etc.). XL/2097 and 3 look great after all these years.
  
• Legacy Of Kain: Soul Reaver: Similar to MGS when it comes to voice acting (great), it's a dark and macabre action/adventure game with puzzle solving and gripping story (AKA actual cool vampires, not Twilight or Halloween Dracula)
  
• Medal Of Honor & Medal Of Honor Underground: The best FPS games on the PS1 by far (not saying much when compared to the PC and N64 FPSs at the time) Still great to play but you might have to get used to the controls a bit.
  
  I hope this wall of text helps you on your collecting endeavors. Happy Hunting!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

I'm 37 and have wanted one of these since I was 10 as well. Also work in IT, but as a programmer, but I have done a lot of PC building and repairing on the side for decades. Never owned or worked on an arcade cabinet before, or worked with Raspberry Pi before. The Arcade1Up MK was also my first (and only so far) cab. As a tinkerer, I modded mine immediately (as in, within 3 days of ownership), and I'll give you some tips for if/when you mod yours that will save you a lot of time and money, because I made a lot of mistakes with mine buying wrong or insufficient parts, and general things that I would have done better/differently if I got to do it over again.

Modding is NOT hard. It's as easy as building the thing out of the box was (requires moderate effort and very little skill).

Hardware:

1. Get a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ from Amazon (seems to be the cheapest place, as it's $37.50 with free shipping there, but other stores charge $35 + like $5+ for shipping).
   
2. Mistake #1 for me: I went with a 256GB MicroSD because I WAY overestimated how much space I'd need, because I was looking at "complete" ROM sets that had a million duplicates, lightgun games, trackball games, spinner games, bartop touchscreen games, a bunch of adult stuff, like 500 Mahjong games, etc., and I knew I also wanted to download video previews for a Hyperspin-like setup. Depending on the systems you want to emulate, a 64GB MicroSD should be plenty. If you want to be safe (hey, maybe someday you'll get a modded control panel with a trackball, spinner, and maybe you'll do an AimTrak setup), go with 128GB. My 256GB card is a huge waste, as they're very expensive.
   
3. If you get an aftermarket joysticks/button kit, just go with the $56 Sanwa kit. I went with the EG STARTS joystick & LED buttons kit, and the buttons look and work amazingly, but the joysticks are garbage. They're worse than the stock joysticks; the only reason I'd use them over the stock joysticks is because they're 8-way (stock ones on the A1U MK cab are 4-way for some reason). The joysticks have WAY too light of a pull, and a pull-then-release will result in it springing back and hitting the opposite switch (for example if you pull left and let go, it'll spring back and briefly trigger the right switch). I got Sanwa sticks to remedy this, but it set me back $50 for those + another $10 for the 8-way gates, so that totals $115 for the controls. Don't worry, your A1U stock battops will work with those sticks.
   
4. If you want LED buttons (they do look incredible), then just get a cheap decent LED button kit of your choosing and spend $46 on two Sanwa sticks. You'll come out way cheaper than I did.
   
5. You don't need an amp for your audio with the RPi. I spent $20 on an amp and didn't even end up using it. Just plug some cheap powered PC speakers into your monitor controller board to use the HDMI audio. I then mounted the speakers to the top of my cab in the back, so they're not really visible but the volume knob on them is easy to reach. I've seen some people mount PC speakers right on the sides of the cab, but I don't like that aesthetic personally. If you want to go the extra mile (I plan to try), disassemble the speakers, mount them on the panel between the kickplate and the control panel (after making speaker holes or purchasing an aftermarket one with holes drilled already), and then make an extra hole in the center of that panel for the volume knob (just mount the board behind there, with the potentiometer sticking out, and then put the plastic knob right back on the dial to cover the hole).
   
6. You will need to drill two 1 1/8" holes in the panel between the control panel and kickplate for select/coin buttons. I've never done any woodworking in my life but was able to do this easily. All I did was measure the vertical halfway line (drawing a horizontal line with a square and a pencil), and then 1/3 of the total distance from both the left and right edges, drawing vertical lines. The intersections are where you drill your holes. Very simple. It's only a 3/16" thick panel so it's no sweat at all. Just be sure to remove the panel before doing this, and use some clamps to clamp it securely to a piece of scrap wood.
   
7. You can wire your RPi to use the stock A1U on/off switch. It's very simple, but you may need to reverse the switch (by just physically turning it around), or else it might be backwards ("Off" is "On" and vice-versa). It's just 2 wires. This'll have the added benefit of turning your RPi off cleanly, and also powering down all your peripherals, including the monitor and USB devices.
   
8. You're gonna want a bluetooth keyboard so you can access DIP switches in games, and use Linux commands.
   
9. If you plan on connecting any extra USB stuff beyond the controls, you'll want a good RPi power supply. You might also want a powered USB hub for extra power, because even the best RPi power supplies (true 3 amp) can't power more than 3-4 USB devices along with the Pi.
   
   Software:
   
   
10. Here's a really good clean 64GB Arcade-only RPi image. It includes all the descriptions and video previews, so you don't have to run a scraper.
    
11. If MK games have crackling audio, go into the DIP switch menu with F2 and turn the volume down to about 60%. Also turn the RPi volume down a bit, to no more than 75%.
    
12. Sometimes when using RPi images, the screen resolution is wrong; set it to 1280x1024. You may also want to disable bezels.
    
13. Some RPi themes only look good at 16:9 aspect ratios; my favorite 5:4 compatible theme is "Showcase".
    
14. If you see a yellow lightning bolt icon in the top right on the Pi, it means it's underpowered and you need to disconnect peripherals, get a powered USB hub for some of them, or upgrade your power supply. Seeing this symbol will cause slowdown in games and can potentially corrupt your MicroSD image entirely.
    
15. If you have a yellow FPS or 'frame counter' in the bottom left of your screen, do the following:
    
    Go into a game, and hit Select/Coin + X. This will bring up a special Retroarch menu. Go to Settings -> Onscreen Display -> Onscreen Notifications -> Display Frame Count -> OFF. Hit B to go back to the Settings menu, then go to Configuration and make sure Save Configuration on Exit is ON. You may have to do this for every system you're emulating, because it seems to only apply to whichever emulator you have running when you change the setting.
    
    None of this is nearly as complicated as it might sound. I was just trying to be thorough and save you a ton of time and money. Hope this helps!
    
    Here's a video of my modded cab:
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8lNARvbiKA

The PS2 controller should work, but you need a PS1 memorycard. I think it was possible to use a PS2 memorycard if you first started playing on the PS1 card, then copied the save to the PS2 card, but you still always needed one card each, so its not going to help you out.

Also, the PS1 game support is nearly 100%, with maybe a handful of games having some slight issues, and only a few games not working on specific models of PS2 Slim. I remember reading that Tomba/Tombi 1 and Mortal Kombat Trilogy had game breaking issues with some Slim models, and possibly MGS too, but there are not many incompatible games out there. You can find some partial info from Wikipedia, but apparently it doesn't apply on every model (unless they have updated the page with clarifications).

Also, as an extra note, if you are using Component cables with your console, or want to get a better picture quality out of it, PS1 games almost always output at 240p instead of 480i (288p and 576i in Europe) that PS2 games use, and a lot of TVs can't recognize or understand a 240p signal over their Component and HDMI connections. So in this case, using a PS2 with Component cables or a PS2 to HDMI adapter to play PS1 games is most likely going to give you a black screen with sound. Some TVs can also display 240p over Component, but incorrectly recognize it as 480i signal, doing unnecessary deinterlacing and ruining the picture.

Though, quite a few modern TVs still can show 240p flawlessly. The support is just widely inconsistent.

So consider that when you play PS1 games on PS2. If you are in Europe/PAL zone, you might have much more luck with some good RGB SCART cables. If you are in the US/place where SCART is not a common standard, there have lately been a surge of "PS1/PS2 AV to HDMI" conversion devices, which use the console's RGB output (all PS1s and 2s regardless of their region are capable of using RGB SCART as a output) to quickly convert the analog signal to digital HDMI signal. Apparently, they give you a pretty good picture quality, and they are way more compatible than those PS2 to HDMI adapters, which use the Component output signal. AV to HDMI has a cable and a conversion box combined to one device that does the minimum required 720p and 1080p upscaling, while PS2 to HDMI looks more like a fat USB stick and it will only convert the signal from analog to digital, so don't confuse the two.

Just an FYI, if you want to get a better video output from your old consoles. The standard composite cables are pretty shitty, so you would be getting a lot more out with better cables. Those AV to HDMI converter things (which are specifically made for PlayStation) go for around $30, I think.

Edit. Here's the RGB converter https://www.amazon.com/Link-Cable-PlayStation-All-Models/dp/B07MYVF61Y

As u/Craigerrs said, the SCART spec can vary from TV to TV especially if it's a cheaper one. Short answer for the PS2 is that you want the TV to support RGB over SCART, then you need to get yourself a Playstation RGB SCART Cable
I can't remember offhand, but I think you need to enable RGB output in the Playstation menu.

For other devices; if it is capable of outputting RGB, you'll almost certainly be able to get this into your TV through SCART regardless of the connector on the other end.

Further detail about the connector:
SCART was a very nifty and clever connector for the analogue A/V age; the analogue equivalent of HDMI in many ways. It supported multiple video signal types, multi-channel audio, and comprehensive control signals through a single 21-pin connector and cable.
French invention from late 70s but became widely used throughout Europe and Middle East (basically PAL zones) by late 80s. I'm in UK and it was ubiquitous here in 90s (still offered as a single connector on some flat screen TVs to this day).

The three most commonly supported video signals supported by the SCART connector were composite (OK), S-Video (Better), and RGB (Best). RGB was especially good for anything involving computer graphics (such as games consoles, home computers and on screen graphics from Set Top Boxes). You could connect SCART to SCART, or any supported signal on a different connector wired to a SCART connector at the other end (eg 3xRCA for composite video and stereo audio, plus an S-Video connector at one end, with SCART at the other)

The control elements are largely defunct now unless you are connecting compatible equipment with a SCART connector but they supported input switching (start playing a tape in your VCR, and the TV would switch on from standby and switch to the correct input and back again once you switch the VCR off).
A set top box could send a signal to a VCR to start and stop recording at appropriate times, a VCR or DVD player could set the TV to switch to the appropriate aspect ratio for the content playing, etc.

There were various other functions such as bidirectional signals but one which was useful in reducing cable clutter was the ability to daisy chain devices and pass through signals. For example, you have a TV, VCR, Satellite receiver, and DVD Player. You want to be able to see all of these on the TV, and you want to be able to record programmes from the satellite receiver. Normally that would be a longer cable from every device to the TV, plus a cable from the satellite receiver to the VCR. To further complicate matters, cheaper TVs often only had 2 or even 1 SCART input. One way around this would be to connect the DVD player to the 2nd SCART on the satellite receiver, then connect the 1st Sat SCART to 2nd SCART on the VCR, then the 1st SCART from VCR to TV. One less cable overall, shorter cables in daisy chain rather than rats nest of longer cables, and fewer SCART sockets required on the TV. It might not seem like much but given how chunky good quality SCART cables and connectors could be, the space saving could make a difference.

I'm going to stop now as I'm sure I've bored most people to tears about SCART but it was an incredible connector with a lot of functionality, you could make your own cables to precise length and requirements, and it even supported HD making it more convenient than 5xRCA for Component plus audio but this was very limited as HDMI was on the march.

Nice! I started with psvr and played probably near 100 hours. That was back when we only had 16 songs I think and no expert+ for a while so i finally broke down and got a rift to play custom songs. It's a lot of fun but i still find the original soundtrack songs had more fun mapping than a lot of custom songs and I go back to them when I need a good workout. Keep on having fun and you'll be surprised how quickly you're playing harder and harder levels.

Another note I highly recommend these to help improve grip and stability: RDS Industries 2 Pack Action Grips for PlayStation Move Motion Controllers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX4ZCJL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hNdsDb9YCM0KB

It's a matter of personal preference, but I'm a fightstick guy, so when I installed some of the buttons you used for a friend, they were way hard to press and somewhat rough feeling to me. I know the 90s arcade "feel" is "clicky" euro-style buttons, but when you get the urge to play around with the config, try some of these: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/en/home/controls/buttons/buttons-seimitsu/578-seimitsu-psl-30n

They aren't clicky, but the resistance is probably less than half (though not so little you'll accidentally press them like happens with Sanwas sometimes) and they are just buttery smooth. Arcade games are a very tactile thing to me and having some of these underhand is just so much more enjoyable. A cheaper and easier upgrade would be to swap in some good switches, like these: https://www.focusattack.com/cherry-d44x-75g-187-microswitch/

A third option is, if you want the true 90s feel, get real Happ or IL buttons. So far, I don't think Happ or IL are producing an LED version of the original, concave plunger classic buttons, but IL produces transparent ones. Put in these with a some cheap LED strips from amazon and you get the true classic feel with lights. Here they are:https://www.focusattack.com/il-psl-l-translucent-concave-long-stem-pushbutton-red/

Again, this is all personal preference, but of all the options available in controls these days, the ones you have may be the least enjoyable to play with. I understand why you got them though. If you aren't a fightstick person and absolutely obsessed controls snob, the bundles available on Amazon these days make a lot of sense. By the way, the JLF clones that came bundled with the buttons is alright. If I were you I wouldn't bother replacing it, but if you're playing much other than fighting games on it, you need octo-gates on them. Playing shooters with a square gate is frustrating. Playing Pac-Man on that is damn-near impossible. Here's the gates: https://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U

Again, really cool build.

Well, to be fair it is my favorite online racing game and that question get's asked daily. Please do a search next time.

There are plenty of other great racing titles out their, a simple Google search could have found you an answer. Steam can even do that for you with a little more effort on your part.

If you have any other questions, you might have better luck at /r/simracing than at /r/pcgaming.

If need more racing titles...

rFactor 2
GameStock Car 2013/ Extreme
iRacing
Power & Glory 3 (requires GTR2)
GT Legends
DRM 2.0 (Requires rFactor)
Richard Burns Rally 2014 (requires Richard Burns Rally)
Live for Speed

If you need a wheel: (Prices are subject to change)
Note: A better wheel won't necessarily improve lap times. It just makes the experience feel more realistic.

~$129.96 - Logitech Driving Force GT
~$239.99 - Logitech G27
~$299.99 - Fanatec Porsche 911 gt3 v2 bundle
~$599.99 - Thrustmaster T500RS
~$799.99 - Fanatec ClubSport base w/ Formula Rim w/ Clubsport V2 pedals bundle.

I specifically don't include iRacing in this list. While iRacing does offer the best online component (matchmaking, leaderboards, etc etc), it can be an expensive service (monthly sub.) if you decide you want additional cars or tracks and costs many users ~$200/yr.

So I use Grip-it's and I like them: Grip-iT Analog Stick Covers, Set of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qtgqyb1SDK855

They're cheap, come in lots of colors, easy to put on, and add grip.

I was recommended to try Kontrol Freaks too. They're a little more expensive, but I hear they are very good.

However, I don't think those will help with your sprint button stopping working. It will help with the wearing off for sure. I'd recommend buying a controller from a store with a warranty and just replacing it as needed. Someone else probably knows what stores offer that on here. Good luck.

The DS4 is super comfortable and surprisingly light weight. The analogs feel great and soft, and their movement is very fluent. Triggers feel smooth and stick out more than the DS3 (which felt sunk'ed in), not to mention they have quick respond, because of their shape. Other than that, I advice that you get soft rubber tops for your Analogs, since a lot of people are complaining that they wear off (even tho I have not had the problem, I still bought some just for the long run - here's what I bought, which I HIIIIIIIIIGHLY RECOMMEND http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394725317&sr=8-1&keywords=Grip-iT).

Congrats and happy gaming!

I can vouch for number 4), as I'm still always mashing my stick to the end of the gate. Definitely practice realizing that you do not have to mash the stick all the way till it stops.

Also I would invest in buying an octa-gate from amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U). Its a preference thing, but it helps me when playing with Ryu and needing to get off a dp quickly. The madcatz TE sticks are nice cause you can just push the button to open the top and switch out the gate in all of about 15 secs.

I was also perplexed at first by the convex buttons, but they are second nature now, and I think I prefer them over the bowl shaped ones, but like others have said. These are easy to replace if you want something different.

Good Luck and stick with it!

Similar situation here. My tips:

• Use - as you use it, you'll get better. Crappy answer, but the most realistic one.
  
• Sensitivity Settings - Figure out what you are trying to do. If you have to lower the settings, go for it. If you need to increase it to give you that feeling of mouse/keyboard - then do it. Eventually you'll hone in on what you need your settings to be dependent on the game. Shooters sometimes have a separate down-the-sights sensitivity that can help for headshots.
  
• Controller config - There are usually 4-5 different types of config in the game's settings. For COD BLOPS3, as an example, I found the setting with jump on the L1 trigger, and melee on Circle - since I found I want to aim while jumping, and rarely melee.
  
• Comfort - They sell silicone controller shells, and many (including me) use thumbstick covers or addons (I use these, and love them.) Find what makes you the most comfortable physically (and mentally.)
  
• Aim - You can't move as much on console. Especially in shooters you should have your sights aimed where you mostly need them. In an FPS, run with the reticule around chest/head level, so when you turn a corner, you can start shooting without trying to aim first.
  
• Sounds - many/most pc gamers are used to gaming with a headset on, for FPS especially, hearing footsteps is a huge gamechanger advantage. Get Sony Golds, or Astro A40s if you have a little more money (OR a VSS optical-to-digital box + your favorite seinheiser cans if you have the desire), and go to town.

I've been itching for some headtracking solution lately, too.

Many are saying the eventual FoIP, which will probably be fine apart from the cost of the webcam, though you can do facetracking now (not to be confused with FoIP) with a relatively cheap 120fps Playstation 3 Eye paired with something like FaceTrackNoIR that will likely work as well as it will, but may not be as easy to setup depending on how well it's going to be integrated. Using standard webcams also work, but not that well. Same issue regarding webcam framerate with using markers and IRtrackers.

And then there's Eyetrackers like Tobii, which is incredibly slick and easy to setup, only drawback is being centered in front of the capture bar as well as it being kinda' pricey.

Though what I'm really drawn to right now is magnetometer tracking with something like buying or building a small and cheap EDtracker module, or even more simply just strapping a newer phone to my head with OpenTrack. It just seems more simple and reliable overall, and doesn't require me to be constantly centered in front of my webcam for it to work well, as well as it's dirt cheap.

Just my two UEC though, really. Most will likely adopt the FoIP cam because of the social aspect of FoIP, but in the meantime spending a few bucks on a magnetometer module, or again just strapping a phone to your head, will get you as good of results as anything else.

No third party controllers, but you could try getting either new thumbsticks (Xbox One thumbsticks fit perfectly), or you could get a thumbstick cover.

Ive used GelTabz before and liked them. They add a good amount of gel thickness that should make clicking the joystick more pleasant.

Grip-It thumbstick covers are also considered very good.

My good sire! I would recommendth the Gamesir AVX I believe it is called! It around a 100 buckos but it’s a great deal for sure! It is half a keyboard and half a mouse. This is done to take up less space and to be more comfortable. A link to the truly incredible device!

For a nice all-in-one cheap solution, I'd go with the Elite F300.

If you're willing to mod, then I'd suggest a 8bitdo N30 w/ Sanwa buttons and Sanwa joystick. This will give you the same as above but with bluetooth and I'm pretty sure it will eliminate the need for an extra controller to get it hooked up to xbox/ps.

If you're looking for something bigger but still cheap, then I would have to suggest a used Razer Panethera or Hori RAP 4 on Amazon for about 100-130. The returns on Amazon Warehouse are usually people who tried the stick for an hour or two and didn't care for it. They're usually pretty damn nice and offer around 30-40% discount. I once got a "used" display shelf that still had all the protective material on and around the shelf, like the sticker kind that you can't re-apply... so I guess somebody literally just opened the box and said well nevermind and returned it.

I tried a few charging stands and most were either too ugly to stay in my entertainment center or they eventually broke. I finally got this Power A dual charging stand and it's been great for a couple years now. It's low profile, which is great for taking the controllers in and out while it sits on a middle shelf in the entertainment center, and feels like it's built really well. Has a real satisfying spring loaded click when you seat the controller into it. Plus it charges super fast and I love that it plugs into the wall for power so you can charge independent of the console.

I'm running a home made headtracker with free-track that I've been using for probably 3 years now. I recently swapped out the camera I was using with a PS3Eye since they're only $8 on Amazon now, and performance is excellent.

If you know how to do basic soldering it's simple to build the point model, and the components will probably run you about $2-3... with a PS3Eye, you're looking at an approximate total build cost of $10-15 (assuming you have a soldering iron, etc).

Free-track is a little tricky to configure at first, but there's tons of good how-to's on their forums. Some people prefer the facetracknoir point tracker to free-track because it's a bit easier to set up and some report better performance. I've had mixed results with it over free-track personally.

Anyway, my point is trackIR5 + track clip pro will run you close to $200 and while I have yet to see an unbiased side by side comparison with a free-track setup, I can't imagine it's all that superior... BUT if you have the cash for one and don't like getting your hands dirty, it's a great option for that reason.

If you do end up building your own, feel free to PM me with any questions along the way.

Well, a mid range setup, for the basic gear, like a wheel/pedals/shifters would be something like this fanatec bundle or this thrustmaster t500rs. The fanatec bundle is $300 there, although the shifter set is generally not the best around, and the t500rs is upwards of $500, but generally has a pretty solid wheel and pedal set.

Beyond that there are custom offerings like a wheel base that you can apply custom steering wheels to, which usually cost $150-400; modified pedals that suit your preferred feel, etc.

That's only a part of the cost though, as most serious racers have some sort of "rig" that they use. Similar to this. Generally a racing chair and cockpit that would somewhat replicate a real car. Although this is on the entry side of things for a racing cockpit. That's not to mention the cost of running 3 monitors if someone chooses to do that, and the PC needed to run 3 monitors.

That's part of the reason sim racing is known more as a hobby than a game experience, the cost can really add up. Although, none of that stuff is really required to have some fun, and a basic g27 mounted to a desk will surely suffice for anyone looking to drive around.

I recently bought a 8bitdo joystick so my GF and I could improve our Burgertime/Galaga/Donkey Kong experience. I like the solid feeling of the case and the fact that you can use Bluetooth or a wired connection. I was less impressed with the joystick and buttons, so I ordered this sanwa joystick: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BIC9QE And these sanwa buttons: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003KSB2YC

The bottom of the case comes apart easily with 6 screws. It only took a few minutes to pop out the old buttons and replace them with the new ones. The old joystick was then removed and the soldered-on leads were clipped. There are 8 leads, which include a ground for each direction. The Sanwa harness only has 5 wires(1 ground and 1 for each of the four directions). SO basically, I just wired the 4 ground wires from the board to the black wire in the sanwa harness. The other 4 wires were then connected to their counterparts. The wiring diagram for the joystick can be found here: https://www.focusattack.com/5-pin-wiring-harness/ The N30 usb board has each joystick direction printed on the board above the connector, so you don't even need to label anything. I set the joystick gate to 4-way, as these are the games we mostly play. All in all this was a very simple project, even for someone like myself that doesn't know anything about arcade hardware or electronics.

honestly, I recommend these

you get 4 in a pack (so enough for 2 controllers or just for yours and you have a spare set)

it took a while to get on right, basically they have to be perfect or they rub the sides while using the sticks and you get resistance but now that I got them on right it's very nice, and seems to be protecting the thumb sticks.

best part is the price, after shipping mine were $9, keeping in mind it comes with a spare set of covers.

I know this isn't exactly what you want, but IMO it's worth getting them even if the controllers seem to be fixed.

Well sports champions 1 and 2 are both really good. You can do some of the games on them 4 player with just one controller. The Shoot was a pretty fun arcade style shooter. Just dance 3 and 4 are great party games. Playstation move heroes was pretty descent. There were others I wanted to try but never got around to buying them. Maybe I will now that they are only like $5 or less!

Yes that's unfortunately true, but it's not exclusive to NBA 2K lol, it'll happen in any game with a lot of intense stick movement. I've taken like 5 controllers total to exchange at target, until I finally bought some grip covers (Here). It works like a charm I must say and don't have to worry about it anymore.

It still sucks that it happen, however at least Sony has acknowledged it

[edit]: So the trick I did (i think this only works if your ps4 controller is in good condition besides the thumbsticks) is bought a controller at target and just put the old controller in the new package, and went and exchanged it for a new one. You can even get a full refund I believe if you don't want the extra controller. Obviously don't be obvious about it, do this in the span of a week or so. Not in all the same day. And you don't have to either, just use the new one and return the old one in a few days saying the new one ripped. Or exchange.

Also don't forget to get some gripit thumbstick covers.
Also you might want to double check if you can get the full refund, I'm not 100% sure.

Okay, certainly not state of the art, but it's wireless (bt headphones and battery powered IR leds), and it only cost me about $15 out of pocket to add the head tracking.

Now, to be fair, that $15 - $8 for the IR LEDs and $6 for the PS3 Eye - is sort of an "HGTV" style cost estimate, since I didn't count the 2' length of old phone cord I cannibalized for wire, the filament or $300 3D printer to make the LED holder, the $1.50 130mAh battery I pulled from an old toy or the $2 connector from the same, or the soldering iron, holders, magnifying glasses, snips, cable ties, and sandpaper I had to use to adjust the modified PS3 Eye so it would re-focus. Nor the hundreds of hours put in by the OpenTrack programmers which I got for free thanks to their OS model. Or the 2 hours I spent wiring the @#$#^ thing up through those little tiny conduits. Or the $35 headphones I bought so that it could be completely wireless.


But, you know, aside from all that - yeah $15 and I'm now part of the head tracking crowd!

My launch controller's battery seems to always be dead. They didn't make them very well at first... but you can put Grip-Its or other thumbstick covers on if you want; they work pretty well. The newer controllers are made better, though. (Newest has the light bar on the top of the touchpad as well as the top of the controller)

I'm so jelly. It was not out when I ordered mine like 2 months ago. It even has a touch pad! :C


Now, I DO NOT know how it actually IS, but from what I see on the madcatz description page it seems not(!) to be the case. Like this is the TES+:

http://eustore.madcatz.com/Categories-EU_2/fightsticks-category-EU/Street-Fighter-5-Arcade-FightStick-Tournament-Edition-S-for-PS4-PS3-EU.html#details-div


And this is the TE2:

http://eustore.madcatz.com/Categories-EU_2/fightsticks-category-EU/SFV-Arcade-FightStick-TE2-Chun-Li-PlayStation_2.html


I think it's suspicious how they use the easy modding of the TE2 as a selling point, but there is no mention of it on the TES+ page. So I can only assume the TES+ does not come with plexiglas for easy swapping of artworks. But I might be mistaken.


The more important missing feature is the octagonal gate. If you are anything like me, you want 8 reference points on the stick (forward, up, down, back + the diagonals). For that, I would suggest you to also order one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U/ref=pd_sim_63_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=61uoIkzbIuL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR159%2C160_&refRID=0BWE77QBAC38QZPYBDTE

The original gate you have in your madcatz stick is squared (only diagonal reference points). You can always try it out as it is and order it later if needed, mine arrived in like 4 days.

Just making sure you know this is a thing. (°v°)b

I use this to play Japanese imports on my North American PS1. I've only used it for 4 imports, but it's worked on all of them. It's just a boot disc that boots past the copy protection then lets you swap in the import. I have used this to play a few burned games as well. I ordered a copy of Diablo 1 off ebay but it wouldn't play, so I burned a disc of it and it worked great. Not as elegant as a modded system for sure, but cheap and effective!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005N5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not to bash the official TrackIR, because it is a very solid product... I put together something very equivalent for less about $20.

• PS3Eye - $12
  
  
• FaceTrackNoIR - $0
  
  
• DIY IR LED clip (5v supply, serial build) - ~$5-10 (SFH 485 P, 6.8ohm resistor from the local electronics store, 5v power supply
  
  I started with FaceTrackNoIR's 'face tracking' module but found it a little bit wobbly in low light, which is how I do 90% of my gaming. Building the IR LED clip and using the 'Point Tracker' module for FTNoIR gives me 98% of what the full TrackIR system does.
  
  ~Edit~
  
  Also, I didn't do anything with removing the IR filter, or adding a normal light filter. Works perfectly fine in both the wide angle and narrow modes.
  
  ~Edit2~
  
  One more thing to note for anyone going this route - you're going to want to change the defaults for the Accela mk2 filter in FTNoIR. I used the settings outlined in the PointTracker Guide and am very happy with them.

You can try "Sony PlayStation Eye Camera" for only $7. xD Pretty good for its price. I tested years ago with a free track ir app. It wasn't bad and it works.

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-PlayStation-Eye-Camera-Bulk-Packaging/dp/B0072I2240/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504051302&sr=8-4&keywords=playstation+camera

The guides are a bit scattered around the web, I'll run through the basics of what you need.

I got these leds from LEDsupply, they were 60¢ a piece, and you need 3 of them.

You also need a resistor which are $1 a piece, and you specifically need a 70 ohm resistor. At LEDsupply, at checkout there is a additional order notes box that you need to specify the ohm rating of the resistor.

Then you need the PS3 Eye webcam. This webcam is capable of 120fps at lower resoultion, and 60-75fps at 640 by 480. For $7.29 you can't beat it. You also need the CL-Eye-Driver which is around $2.00 from a third party.

Additionally if you don't have any, you will need some small wire which is 25¢ per foot, a spare long usb cable that you will be cutting (I used an old turtle beach wire because it was so long), and some blank film negative.

For tools you are going to need a soldering iron, solder, a file, and possibly a hot glue gun.

The wiring diagram is super simple (substitute that resistor with yours, ignore the fuse) and you can mount the led's to a hat, or make a clip, whatever is easiest for you.

Download opentrack and take a look in the PointTracker>Settings>Model section and you will see different models you can make. Once you make the model you just put in the dimensions of the led's in there.

After all is said and done you have to file down the LED's to a flat, rough surface so they don't shine so bright into the webcam, and it gives them a wider field of view. This project was cheap and fun and the result is totally awesome. Feel free to message me with any questions.

P.S. If you decide against the 5v usb wire to power the leds, and want to use a battery instead, your resistor is going to be different!

The same thing happened to me. Three months after purchase, the rubber wore down to the plastic (mostly because of Injustice: Gods Among Us).

I called Sony Customer Support: (800) 345-7669
I explained what happened, and a lady explained to me directions regarding shipping the controller to this address...
MTC Fort Wayne
2505 Wayne Haven St,
Fort Wayne, IN 46803

They replaced the controller for free, however I paid about $10 for shipping (eh...). Once I got the new controller, which only took a few days, I bought these things: http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398130444&sr=8-1&keywords=grip-its

If I were you, I would just go ahead and buy the grips. They're awesome, comfy, and you can't tell if there is busted rubber underneath them. If you want to know that you have a pristine set of thumbsticks underneath them, however...then yeah, call Sony and they should replace the controller if it's under their warranty. Hope that helps.

Like anything there is no agreed upon "best".

There are GelTabz....
http://www.amazon.com/GelTabz-Performance-Thumb-Grips-PlayStation-4/dp/B00GOOSV98

GripIt...

http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2

Butterfox (I had these for a while)
http://www.amazon.com/ButterFox-Thumb-Grips-Controllers-PlayStation-4/dp/B00J44J6NA/

Off brand silicone...
http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Silicone-Controller-Joystick-360-Controllers/dp/B00OXT579S/

KF....

http://www.kontrolfreek.com/thumbsticks.html/

You'd be better off watching YouTube reviews of these various products.


None of which might fit great now that the rubber on your controller is actually falling apart. Might require some hot glue or something else if you want them to stay in place.

A lot of people eventually switch to xbox style sticks, not just because the material doesn't fall apart but because it's actually a much better design. These compared to the DS4 sticks is night and day in terms of control and your thumb not sliding all over the place.

http://www.amazon.com/GAMING%C2%AE-Original-Xbox-Controller-Analogue-Thumbsticks/dp/B00JQX91HU/

Not that hard to install. Hardest thing about taking the controller apart is getting the shell separated for the first time and the fact that the triggers and springs might fall out, so just work on a clean table where you'll be able to find the little springs. Watch videos on how to take it apart.

Same seller (hikig-online) is one of the people selling the Amazon listing for the same part: https://www.amazon.com/SANWA-JLF-TP-8YT-SK-Adjustable-Tournament-Compatible/dp/B005BIC9QE

And between both their Amazon and Ebay ratings not one person calls them out for selling counterfeits. It's probably all right. Unfortunately I can't give you 100% assurance on that because I don't see that username show up on /r/fightsticks like hklegend does, but there's a pretty good chance it's not a knock-off.

I built a separate computer out of spare parts including a gtx560 and I specifically use it for sim racing. I have never had an issue with any of the games I play, IRacing, Codemasters F1, project cars, AC, and several others. The sim games really don't have much in the way of amazing graphics, more so the physics especially iracing. Point being is you can build a cheap computer, especially with the new ryzen CPUs. What makes it expensive is the pedals and wheel and eventually a sim setup. But you can get a g27 for decently cheap. The setup I use is from [Ricmotech] (http://www.ricmotech.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RMT-RS500-RS3-DIY)

Although I definitely started with a desk and shitty old office chair, the setup makes all the difference for me personally.

Definitely do your research before purchasing. I went ahead and purchased the [Thrustmaster RS500] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004J6KRD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q5hizb12R57AP) and I am beyond pleased and it has lasted almost two years with no problems. There are plenty of setup guides for most wheel and pedal sets with almost all sim games.

Good write up about wheels, pedals, and mods [Here] (https://www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/2hyy6z/buying_guide_sim_racing_hardware_wheels_pedals/)

Also r/simracing is a great source

I was trying to convey to people just how easy it is to cheat, and I was saying that I'd like to demonstrate it, and they were getting uncomfortable with me saying that. I was hoping to spur people on to beef up security, but instead, it seemed that they rather just continue to ignore that it's possible. I can understand that adding barriers to entry is undesirable, but we have to think of the future. You can't just retroactively decide to add rules for videos that were already made. You can't invalidate all previous runs when you suspect one of being too good, and you can't be selective if there's no true sign of wrongdoing.

If you want to be sure there's a real person putting these inputs in, then a generalized (should work for pretty much anything) method that I'd propose is having mandatory hand cams. You can get a 120 fps camera for about $6 on Amazon right now.

I picked up Grip ITs and have really enjoyed them, and really good value at under $5.

They do not raise the height of the sticks but provide a nice tacky surface and I have found I am controlling games alot better

http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

get yourself a pair of Grip-Its, they're awesome and super comfortable.

I just got a new controller sent to me by Amazon US since I bought mine through them as well. My left stick had the rubber pulling off and tearing so I called their customer service line. They just asked for the order number, then added a PS4 controller to my online cart for $0.00. All I had to do was check out and pick my shipping. It really couldn't have been any easier. They don't even make you send the busted controller back. So, buy yourself some grip-its and you basically get two controllers that work perfectly fine. I ordered these: http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

They fit on the PS4 sticks fine, will cover the damage on the older controller and will keep the new one from wearing and tearing until they figure out what the manufacturing issue is/was.

Extremely unlikely, although there have been some rumors that they’ve already updated controller material quality in newer consoles. If you want to be safe, I would recommend these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003NSLGW2/. I personally use love and vouch for them. If not, and you do get joystick peeling, Sony will send you a replacement.

I'm used to the hold that Daigo is showing, currently trying to get used to it with 2 fingers on top, as personally i feel like my ring finger gets in the way of speed.

As for the gate: you've got to try what works. I grabbed an octo-gate and was riding the gate for a while. Friends tried to tell me how bad it was until one day i was playing locals and the stick i was using was a square so i just went with it. holy crap. i felt like the training wheels broke off of a bike while i was riding. Not only was i able to use less energy by throwing fireballs with a very small notation, but the "tiger knee" input became real, and it was like learning to shoryuken all over again.

if you're an amazon prime user, you can pick this one up and give it a try while getting it quickly and having amazon's easy return policy.

Most lcd tvs don't support 240p over component or hdmi. PS1 games are mostly 240p. Your best bet is the pound hdmi cable, since it uses RGB output and then upscales to 720p, so your TV is being fed 720p, which it can correctly interpret.
https://www.amazon.com/POUND-Link-Cable-Playstation-compatible-2/dp/B07HPF7PRT/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=ps2+hdmi&qid=1572460939&sr=8-6
However, this isn't compatible with progressive scan, so I'd still play ps2 with the adapter you currently have in order to take advantage of 480p and get optimal image quality.

And for me but I really recommend these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Grip-It-Analog-Stick-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398691756&sr=8-1&keywords=ps4+grip-it put them on tearing/torn thumbsticks and it is brilliant

These are the ones I use. They are really reliable and high quality but it still stretches the screen. On some TV's you can set the aspect ratio. For HDMI it's the best I know of and they have it for different consoles as well. https://www.amazon.com/POUND-Link-Cable-Playstation-compatible-2/dp/B07HPF7PRT/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=pound+ps2&qid=1574439645&sr=8-1

I bought some of these when my rubber started rubbing off.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NSLGW2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They work fine and were super cheap. Great alternative till I get the White destiny controller.

Excellent answer, thanks.

I have the following coming this week:

Qanba joy stick

Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor

Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK OEM Red Ball Top Handle Arcade Joystick

Basic, middle of the road stuff. I was thinking of doing one of those Raspberry pi inside of a fight stick setups, but I kind of like the look of the Vilros mini NES.

Thanks again for the response.

This is what I did as well and the remote is absolutely amazing! A perfect complement to the Shield

Two things that were invaluable to me:

You can buy a PS3 Eye Camera for very cheap on Amazon (or used from a local Gamestop) and use the far field mic on it for Assistant. In Shield Experience 7.2.3, the voice button on the Fire TV remote triggers assistant, and then the Eye Camera's mic can be used. It is an equivalent experience to using the stock remote for me.

You can use Button Remapper to remap buttons on the Fire TV remote. The app allows you to remap single, (quick) double, and long presses on buttons. The customization that I chose to do was holding down the menu button for skipping forward entire tracks. The media buttons on the Fire TV are just for seeking within the current media playing, and a skip forward button is all that I personally needed to make the Spotify experience on my Shield perfect. Do note that Button Remapper has an option to do a one time in app purchase to unlock a few more customization options, and customizing the menu button is a part of this (from what I remember).

If you can't go through warranty, you can buy Analog Caps on Amazon for 5 dollars. This should fit on your shield since the size of the analog on the xbox 360 controller were basically the same. Just put it up on the analog and It's ready to go. But if you don't want this. You can try the harder way, buy parts on ebay and disassemble the shield and replace the analog. But analog caps are great and cheap option.

I strongly suggest taking a look at visual techniques. Jakob Engel at the Computer Vision Group at TUM in Germany has developed a technique called Digital Sparse Odometry. The source is on his GitHub page.

This technique may need to be tuned to work on smaller devices like the RPi3, however the predecessor algorithm, LSD-SLAM, was less efficient and worked on phones in real-time.

Decent cameras can be had for cheap. I like the Sony PS3Eye as it provides an uncompressed feed of RGB components per pixel at 640x480x60 fps.

the cheap ones are about $50 but they don't really last all that well and can be unreliable, if you want a solid one you're looking at spending about $130

also, you can only get sticks with square gates, the plastic piece that restricts the direction you can move the stick is just a square. Unless you're used to that i'd recommend getting an 8 way gate when i was growing up and arcades were still around US arcade boxes had the 8 way gates and that's all i can play with now.

This, 1000x this. The total price definitely ends up being under $30. as /u/jazzmasterfirefox said, you can get these cameras for under $10 at Gamestop or even Amazon. The driver to run these, made by Code Laboratories, does cost $3, however, I have found that the Eye camera is compatible with Ubuntu out of the box. So, if you have a linux streaming setup like I do, you can get a great camera for under $10.

Some Notes: this camera only records at a resolution of 640x480, so for the camera being your full stream, the resolution may be a bit low, however, I just use it in a face box, so the resolution is acceptable. Additionally, this camera captures at 60FPS natively, or if you lower the resolution by half, it captures 120FPS. The camera also features a noise cancelling microphone, which may save you a little bit of money on audio, however I can't very well attest to the quality, as I have a separate audio setup.

I also bought the AmazonBasics PSVR case after I tried out the Apache 3800. I like the PSVR a lot more!

Even though the physical dimensions are smaller, it seems to fit my Frankenquest much better!

Here are a few pics: Frankenquest Case https://imgur.com/gallery/w8oHlW9

And the Amazon link AmazonBasics Carrying Case for PlayStation VR Headset and Accessories - 15 x 10 x 8 Inches, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PVDMT5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XG2nDb5G6RES5

Although it's now showing unavailable on my end :( Hopefully they'll get them back in stock soon!

I use these stick covers on all my controllers, and I'd highly recommend them. No sweaty thumbs, good grip, easy to install/remove, don't damage your thumbsticks (and keep the DS4's natural grip coating from rubbing off), and they're only $5.

new controllers are fine. If you want to be safe order grip its
That said, most people were not actually affected. Just keep in mind the ones who were affected were probably the ones who played their PS4 alot. Chances are, if they're on a gaming subreddit, they play their PS4 alot.

I had the same mic and was rather disappointed with the quality. It only worked well for when I was close to it, so keep that in mind.
The best working microphone for voice control so far for me seemed to be the Playstation Eye which costs about the same. It is bulkier due to the camera however, but why not integrate it as well into the mirror? :)

You might want to check out this bad boy for the PS1 and whatever PS2 games don't need analog sticks. Add this thingy and you'll be set for the PS3 and PC too (I'd never really thought about it but that seems like an incredibly chill setup to play emulated RPGs, I might get one myself..).

Might be a good time to go spelunking in the Wii software library too.

In my opinion this is the best charger on the market...a little more pricey at least at amazon. But a very good charger.

https://www.amazon.com/POWER-DualShock-Dual-Charger-FREE-Cable/dp/B017IR2W5S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498837985&sr=8-1&keywords=power+A+dual+charger

For those who have the thumb grip wearing off problem. My solution was to buy these guys and slap em on!

http://www.amazon.ca/Grip--Analog-Stick-Covers-Standard/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453214362&sr=8-1&keywords=stick+it+thumb+grips

they work great and is not a bad investment. I also like how they feel.

Awesome! If you want a smaller board😂, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J4N76T9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JZHOCb68MA5W7

It is a madcatz brawlstick, from the 360 days. I added my own joystick bat to it and changed the inside to be 8way restrictor way instead of 4. It has Sanwa inputs so much better than mayflash. They are like 70 used on Amazon. that is more than I paid back in the day. If you are into modding you can buy a cheap joystick case and change the parts out for better responsiveness. I get all my parts from Focus Attack

This was the one I was looking at specifically. (https://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004AU0H4U&pd_rd_r=VQ8SQBR63J75W000T081&pd_rd_w=oE2PY&pd_rd_wg=XYPss&psc=1&refRID=VQ8SQBR63J75W000T081)

I'm used to Dualshock sticks, which I think are octagonal. I'm not against learning squared ones though. I feel like getting a Sanwa would give me an excuse to learn how to work on a stick internally too.

And again, thanks a whole lot for the help.

It's pretty well known that [even though I love the controller overall] the ps3 doesn't have the best analog sticks.

Some people put covers on the analog's like these

It's one thing the ps4 really did right imo is fix the analogs. Now that I think about it, you could probably also get a ps4 controller and use it as a ps3 controller to fix your problem.

For the Playstation 1 you'd need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/POUND-Link-Cable-Playstation-compatible-2/dp/B07HPF7PRT (called an HD Link)

For Gamecube - something like this: https://hdmycube.com

Feel free to shop around though

Buy analog stick rubber caps to protect your sticks from crumbeling apart.
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

Controller skin case to keep it protected from dust
http://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Compatible-Playstation4-Controller-playstation-4/dp/B00GLSJC72

There arent many themes to choose from but you can find them in the games category, there are a few free and a few premium paid themes.

Thanks for your post ! Since I created this post I saw some new wheel that might be cool. Right now I'm looking over :

https://www.amazon.ca/Thrustmaster-T300-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=pd_cp_63_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y38YKBPK1V3WBAJDGN6A
or
https://www.amazon.ca/Thrustmaster-T500RS-Racing-Wheel-Playstation-3/dp/B004J6KRD6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494250893&sr=8-1&keywords=thrustmaster+t500

or should I keep G29 ?

gripits on amazon (or elsewhere)...

(Says 360, but they work great on the ps4 controller) : https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Analog-Stick-Covers-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2

I got something similar specifically for Beat Saber, the only VR game I actually play, and after a week or two finally tugged them off once and for all. They added too much thickness to the Moves that I couldn't get the right grips down, and if I want weight I've already got weighted gloves!

Good idea for general play or if you have giant hands, terrible for Beat Saber.

Edit: Yours are a slight bit different than mine, I went with these and they're just way too thick and end awkwardly before getting to the bottom of the Moves. Give yours a shot, don't let my poor decisions hold you back!

I replaced the whole thumbsticks, this is a great deal

if you don't want to open up the controller, I recommend Grip-it

Yeah the stick you linked is good. You can get an octo gate for an extra $9 or so here http://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U/ref=pd_bxgy_vg_text_y

TBH you should just learn to play on a square though.

A few people have said, that you can get that stick for $79 shipped from madcatz during tournaments. That is kind of true, they usually offer $50 off (retail on their site is $129), however, they have been out of the stick for 360 for almost 3 weeks already, and you can see on amazon's site, they estimate 3-5 weeks before they get anymore.

I wouldn't recommend the PS4 camera at this moment. I'm going to try and get the ps4 camera working with the service because I need it for work. BUT it's not a feature I've written yet. Also the PS4 camera has a special connector you need to make an adapter for to work on the PC, see notes here. It's actually a USB3 camera, but Sony decided to used the special AUX adapter. The special AUX fitting has to be purchased from China (via AliExpress) so it takes a while to get. If you're prototyping at home, two PS3Eye camera are fine and they are dirt cheap on Amazon

EDIT: Oh and you won't get the controller fully working over USB. If I recall correctly you won't get controller packet updates when it's connected via USB (has to be connected vis bluetooth).

I found a bunch of extension cables from a google search:

PlayStation 2 Controller Extension Cable

Mad Catz Controller Extension Cable for PlayStation

6 ft. PS2 Controller Extension Cable

Extension Cable (PS2/PSX/PSone)

It looks like they're out there, and that what works for the PS2 will work for the PS1 and vice versa - but I'd ask the seller to make sure if it's not indicated just to be sure.

I just want to recommend these awesome stick grips. I never had any issues with my controller, but I bought a pack of these for my aging 360 controller I use on my PC and I liked them so much I bought more so I could put them on all my controllers (and now my roommate has them on his controllers as well).

At the very least, I won't have to worry about my controller degrading, but they are actually much nicer than the default pad.

Looks like a PS3 Eye Camera. You can get them super cheap, and they'll do 180 FPS @ 320x240, which I'm guessing is why this project uses one.

I got a two pack of 10 ft usb extension cables from amazon and they work great on PS Classic.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KTYJDJX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a disabled left hand It not fully disables but I do have nerve damage and problems with twitch gaming. But I did have a one handed controller to play rpgs with back in the day. Now thanks to playing pc and having a razer naga things are a lot easier for me.

I purchased these grip covers for my 360/XB1 and they're actually pretty good. If they get gunky, you can always wash them by peeling them off and washing them.

Gaming Keyboard and Mouse for Xbox One, PS4, PS3, Nintendo Switch PC, GameSir VX AimSwitch E-Sports Keypad and Mouse Combo Adapter for Computer and Consoles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J4N76T9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YCWSDbFG9N5XF

There are things like this from Amazon and other places. Just be sure to read reviews and do some Goole University research before you buy to make sure it does what you need.

Yep! It's cost me just over $5K including the wheel [$4K without]

My log album here

Build list Here

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | Purchased For $365.94
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler | Purchased For $84.99
Motherboard | MSI Z97-GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | Purchased For $194.14
Memory | Kingston 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | Purchased For $174.99
Storage | Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $97.40
Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $254.29
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $104.98
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card | Purchased For $738.14
Case | Corsair Air 540 ATX Desktop Case | Purchased For $146.99
Power Supply | Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $124.99
Optical Drive | Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | Purchased For $42.19
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | Purchased For $103.72
Monitor | Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor | Purchased For $267.49
Monitor | Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor | Purchased For $267.49
Monitor | Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor | Purchased For $267.49
Monitor | LG 23EA53V-P 23.0" Monitor | Purchased For $157.49
Case Fan | NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan | Purchased For $30.38
Case Fan | NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan | Purchased For $30.38
Case Fan | Silverstone FHP-141 171.0 CFM 140mm Fan | Purchased For $14.43
Case Fan | NZXT FZ-120mm LED 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $22.72
Case Fan | NZXT FZ-120mm LED 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $22.72
Case Fan | NZXT FZ-120mm LED 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $22.72
Keyboard | Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2013 Wired Gaming Keyboard | Purchased For $146.87
Mouse | Logitech G400s Wired Optical Mouse | Purchased For $62.98
Headphones | Astro A40 7.1 Channel Headset | Purchased For $120.00
Other| EVGA GTX 780 Ti Back Plate Cooling, 100-BP-2881-B9| Purchased For $38.26
Other| NVIDIA 3D Vision 2 Wireless Glasses Kit| Purchased For $142.99
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $4047.17
__

I will be doing a full water loop and this is that part list with the water cooling parts, 1.8K for that

This is the wheel

Standalone shifter

Ferrari F458 Wheel Add On

@AllGamingDealz:
>2016-03-20 21:20:07 UTC

>POWER A DualShock 4 Dual Charger with FREE USB Cable for $19.41 (Reg. $34.99) amazon.com #ps4 pic.twitter.com ^[Imgur]

----

[^[Mistake?]](/message/compose/?to=TweetPoster&subject=Error%20Report&message=/4b9dhp%0A%0APlease leave above link unaltered.)
^[Suggestion]
^[FAQ]
^[Code]
^[Issues]

Check out /r/steamcontrollermods as there are a few of us who have swapped to a XBone stick with good results. It does require some sanding/fitting (grinding if you get a metal stick). My issue was the same as yours except that mine also started to wear out the stick where it hits the controller case and made it feel like there was sandpaper on it. This could have only been an issue with the first run pre-orders though since I got mine in November prior to the official release.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jf7eKATqMvw
This is the first guy I've seen do it and I followed his instructions to do mine as well. He posts on /r/steamcontrollermods as well.

I used these sticks:
http://www.amazon.com/Gam3Gear-Aluminum-Analog-Thumbstick-Xbox-ONE/dp/B00VWOOIUQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

After a week of use I added these cause the dish on these were too big and too sharp of an edge for me:
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Analog-Stick-Covers-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

The biggest difference is that under the cup the mating surface is too tall for the Steam Controller and needs to be ground down.

It's not quite plug n play but it's not too difficult if you take your time with it.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Carrying-PlayStation-Headset-Accessories-Black/dp/B073PVDMT5/

Fits the Samsung O+ perfect after cutting some foam out for the headphones.

Before and After comparison showing what foam I had to cut out. It was pretty much a 1 minute hack job, I didn't do a good job making clean cuts but it fits snug and secure. https://imgur.com/pmgbU6D

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073PVDMT5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Check out th reviews . It should fit with DAS as it's pretty big

I totally recommend getting this charging station. Idk what its called I just saw it in the used section at gamestop but heres a picture.


And also you should really get some of those thumbstick grips because I've read stories of people's analog sticks tearing within two weeks. Heres a link to the ones i use.
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

Also Don't get the sony gold wireless if you get a headset the pulse is much better. They're like the exact same headset with different looks except the pulse has the crazy bass feature you can turn on.

Its really up to sony to support it, i know that microsoft has fully supported mouse and keyboard for the xbox. however there are things you can buy to simulate a mouse and keyboard on ps4.

A cheaper option here

Also the more expensive one

Sounds like you're using a controller that doesn't have a proper grip...

You might benefit from some analog stick grips

This.... https://smile.amazon.com/Sony-PlayStation-Eye-Camera-Bulk-Packaging/dp/B0072I2240?_encoding=UTF8&keywords=playstation%20camera&qid=1491256858&ref_=sr_1_2&s=videogames&sr=1-2

It's a microphone array, originally designed for the Playstation. Cheaper than dirt. $6. Includes bonus camera.

Kind of big.

http://www.amazon.com/White-Sanwa-Push-Buttons-OBSF-30-W/dp/B00367KDVU/ref=pd_sbs_misc_1

Get a stick while you're at it?

http://www.amazon.com/JLF-TP-8YT-SK-Joystick-Adjustable-Tournament-Compatible/dp/B004CZQ058/ref=pd_sim_misc_4

http://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U/ref=pd_bxgy_misc_text_c

The last part I linked lets the stick be restricted to an octogon shape rather than the square gate that vanilla MadCatz sticks ship with. It's night and day for SPDs, but might feel off if you're already well used to doing SRKs with a square gate, etc. Just linking in case you're interested; I would personally never use it since I'm a charge fiend.

Buy a pack of these. I own them and they work great for me!

Sure. Here you go. The reviews speak for themselves but I highly recommend them.

Sorry for the late reply! some people told me about the RAZERBP17 17" Razer Pro Tactical Backpack, but I feel it will fail like the others products I bought in the past. I also saw this backpack that seems capable of storing the vive Backpack AmazonBasics PlayStation 4 and PlayStation Virtual Reality Headset Backpack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BG59N25/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RrJVBb0MFXFG3 I figured out that maybe If it can store a PlayStation and its vr MAYBE it could fit the vive.

Buy a cheap ps3 eye camera? Those can be found on Amazon for pretty cheap. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0072I2240/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503364587&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ps3+eye

Can try these. The comments say they work with the Wii U Pro Controller. I use these for my PS4 controller and love them.

Definitely some stick covers I recommend [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409794714&sr=8-1&keywords=grip+its+ps4)

Hey there. I recommend trying these out, I find they help:

http://www.amazon.com/Grip--Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412104019&sr=8-2&keywords=ps4+grip

Not too expensive + good = pound HDMI.

There are cheaper devices on ebay that look terrible and crush the darker colours, and more expensive options like retrotink or OSSC. personally im happy with RGB scart. I've heard good things about the pound cable though. https://youtu.be/mAge8SidnX4

these work great for me

http://www.amazon.com/Grip--Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415856599&sr=8-1&keywords=ps4+stick+covers

ive had these on my xbox 360 and my ps4 and they work great

I ordered these and they work great on my launch day ds4.

https://www.amazon.ca/Grip-Analog-Stick-Covers-Standard/dp/B003NSLGW2?ref_=mw_olp_product_details

I've heard these work great to fix/replace the rubber grip

I use these. They do slightly touch the screen when closed. However, other than leaving 2 feint circle smudges on your screen, they work great.

I'm in the same boat as you. https://www.amazon.com/Sony-PlayStation-Camera-Bulk-Packaging-Pc/dp/B0072I2240/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542863572&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ps3+eye+camera&dpPl=1&dpID=41KjoNsY1mL&ref=plSrch works great

I use this from across the room and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-PlayStation-Eye-Camera-Bulk-Packaging/dp/B0072I2240/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503957345&sr=8-1&keywords=ps3+eye+camera

Something like Grip-Its work fantastically. They are very cheap, very easy to put on, and add a good deal of grip to your existing sticks. It's one thing if you want to tinker with the controller, but other than that, it's far simpler to put on covers.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NSLGW2?pc_redir=1405332685&robot_redir=1

Edit: that US$4.35 price is for two pairs.

I got a set of Grip-It's and they help with the short sticks really well. https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Analog-Stick-Covers-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2

This is perfect
https://imgur.com/UQvyt8Y
https://imgur.com/sjsrgaP



https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Carrying-PlayStation-Headset-Accessories-Black/dp/B073PVDMT5/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=amazon+basic+vr+case&qid=1574188031&sr=8-3

The wheel, pedals, and shifter are by thrustmaster and are roughly $700 total. Not sure how to get 3 screens set up on the ps4, but this is not a cheap set up. I really hope Logitech figures out how to get their G27 to work with the PS4.

http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T500RS-Racing-Wheel-Playstation-3/dp/B004J6KRD6

http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Add-On-Gearbox-Shifter-playstation-4/dp/B00MAXOTB6

You can get Some good ones from Amazon, here try these GripITz http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NSLGW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1397819591&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40 Some Guy is selling these Covers, gonna buy these not GripITz http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AU0UDIY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1397819591&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40

You can add Far Cry 4 and Shadows of Mordor to Shadow's list.

Under PC for me add Assetto Corsa and Project Cars to the list.

Looks like my racing fix won't be on PS4 unless they ever add support for more wheels. Don't see myself upgrading my gaming wheel anytime soon if they decide to keep it the way it is now. I still like using my G27 and the only wheel I would consider buying for the PS4 costs twice as much as I paid for my G27 (and that doesn't even include the shifter...)

The 3rd ones down I've used before, lasted about 2 months before they crapped out, so that's 4 months (2 sets) for $5.00 not too bad. I just got different ones from Target (can't remember the brand) that are also pretty decent.

The playstation cam is a pretty golden standard for cheap cameras and octoprint as far as I know. Can even find mounts to 3D print for them. Not bad for 6 bucks.

Sony PlayStation Eye Camera (Bulk Packaging) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072I2240/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3UFQCb4ZZ0NG4

Hi, I had this problem as well. My nails somehow eroded the grip. I ordered Grip-iT Analog Stick Covers from amazon. they where little over 4 bucks and comes in small pack of 2 black set and a blue set. Working well for me.

link http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395525469&sr=8-1&keywords=Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4

A Playstation but PORTABLE?! Genius, Sony should definitely make one of these PlayStation Portables immediately.

Also, Fond Memories

I'm looking at a couple on Amazon, either

GelTabz Performance Thumb Grips - PlayStation 4 and PlayStation 3 by InterWorks Unlimited, Inc. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOOSV98/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_G5lkub1TB7EYV

Grip-iT Analog Stick Covers by Total Control http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_59lkub0ZHM3BH


I think I've heard from a couple friends that preferred the GelTabz

If you buy a stick, especially the hori rap 4, make sure the gate is octagonal or circular. a majorty come with a Japanese square gate with the latter it will feel like the more traditional american arcade sticks.

Define "good" quality. Looking for HD? Or just something you can tweak and make look decent? I have the RPI camera board for when I am using the PI to take long shots or timelapses. But I have 2 of the PS3 Eye Toy USB Cameras that I use for watching the house when I am out and about. You can pick it up on Amazon/Ebay/etc for about 5 bucks now a days.

Edit: Amazon link if you are interested.

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-PlayStation-Camera-Bulk-Packaging-Pc/dp/B0072I2240/

It's crap.
Get the Amazon PSVR headset case: AmazonBasics Carrying Case for PlayStation VR Headset and Accessories, Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073PVDMT5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JHgXDbR84VW1D

Lots of room, perfect if you have a DAS also ;)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NSLGW2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They work great. Only put them on controllers that arent already fucked up though, the analog sticks without the original covers have really sharp edges that cut through any addon cover.

I ordered these after my thumb sticks started to peel and they fit the DS4 well.

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B003NSLGW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421170053&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41QPWHzaQdL&ref=plSrch

I use these Grip-It covers. Cheep and really comfortable to use.

I'll give you a pass because your probably not an FGC player but it infuriates me that the Smash community cannot tell the difference between an analog stick and a digital stick.

The stick in this video is a DIGITAL stick. Likely a Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT stick used in most modern arcade sticks because its cheap ~$20 bucks and works well. It is functionally identical to flattening out 4 digital buttons like the Smashbox has. https://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-JLF-TP-8YT-SK-Adjustable-Tournament-Compatible/dp/B005BIC9QE

Analog sticks are typically very rare and expensive. They cost anywhere from $100 for the modern Seimitsu LS-64 to $200-250 dollars for a really nice vintage Sega Analog joystick. I believe this videos creator BlackHombre recently made a stick with the analog Seimitsu which probably cost an arm and a leg for the whole setup.
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/joysticks/50-2876-00

That's why you see those Frankenstein controllers that have a gamecube controller cut in half. Replacing the analog joystick on the gamecube is really hard and expensive.
http://imgur.com/gallery/oIP7E/new

You're not doing it right if you've had three fry on you. Seriously. I have seven and they're all working perfectly.

Try using these to charge your controllers. All of mine sit on those to charge. I never use the USB connector to charge.

It took a month or two before my left thumbstick started peeling. I just bought these and it works even better so you have nothing to worry about even if it does happen.

You can do a few things.

• Buy a new controller
  
  
• Buy Xbone analog sticks and [replace them] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZSTNKW?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links)
  
  
• Buy covers which may extend the life of the rubber for a while
  
  
• Play without the rubber
  
  I'd suggest the replacement sticks. It's a bit more work to replace them, but it's worth it.

They're rubbery slips that go over the joysticks to prevent peeling of the manufacturer's rubber. May just be the photo but it looks like some is already coming off of your left stick.

These are what I use but there are many other options out there: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Jxv5wbYH56SB8

The Last of Us

PS+ so that you get free games

If your controller sticks start to wear out get this

you can buy replacement sticks for pretty cheap, or you can buy a cap for it.

i have these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NSLGW2/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00CW5NKWG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0T5X9KH3YD37KF2FCHGG

I bought this one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PVDMT5/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_OEC6CbEM16PH6

​

It is a bit bigger than the Power A PSVR case. But, I had to rip out some foam for it to fit the Rift S.

I like this one a lot. It's the Amazon Basics PSVR case.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BG59N25?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

The rubber on my sticks was wearing down and since I didn't want to have to deal with replacing them I bought a pack of these. They're really easy to install and don't look that bad. They do take a little while to get used to, as they don't feel quite the same as the original joysticks, but after a little while I don't even notice them anymore.

​

FYI: This is the steps I did for my already moded cabinet with USB encoders. I ended up purchasing two of these joysticks. They connect with 5pin cables. Keep in mind that it comes with a 4 way gate (square movement) but can be adjusted to 8 way gate (octagon movement) if you purchase the octagonal plate. I prefer 4 way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BIC9QE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

Step 1: Remove the stock joysticks by unscrewing the joysticks and ball tops / washers.

Step 2: Unplug the joystick from the encoder board.

Step 3: Place and center the new Sanwa joysticks (view from the front).

Step 4: Mark your holes and drill small pilot holes for your screws.

Step 5: Once they are screwed in, I connected the 5pin cable to the new joysticks and plugged them into the USB encoders that I have.

​

​

SANWA JLF-TP-8YT-SK OEM Red Ball Top Handle Arcade Joystick 4 & 8 Way Adjustable (Mad Catz SF4 Tournament Joystick Compatible) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BIC9QE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kRamDbF5E8NQV

I did not use the Sanwa bracket since I didn't want to drill new holes. I used the one that was already there and mounted the new Sanwa on it.

A lot of people have. The recommended solution is thumbstick covers such as these.

I bought a hdmi cable for the ps2 that dident upscale that left the picture 4:3 found out i couldent play my ps1 games with it, then I bought the pond cable it forces a 16:9 aspect ratio thats not great, then i found out there's a hdmi cable now that has a switch to change the aspect ratio so the image isent stretched on non widescreen games like all ps1 and most ps2 games are.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MYVF61Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A20Z8TCB1KGM9H&psc=1

why are there 100 posts like this every week. sheesh.

simple solution - buy a pack of analog stick covers, voila! which ones you ask because your to lazy to Google or search here?

try Gripits - http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413570804&sr=8-1&keywords=gripits

If I were you, I'd buy Grip-iT. Though I don't own it, it's a pretty well known thumbstick and serves it purposes.

But if you thought the thumbstick looks like shit, you're not alone. If you know how to, you can buy Xbone's thumbstick, it costs twice as much and you'll have to put in on manually but hot damn it feels, looks and lasts good.

> The screen is going to be the hardest part as its nearly impossible to find 10 cm square LCD screens.

I've heard that Old PSOne Screens are good for this.

I had one of these for my PS1 it made playing smash bros on long car journeys awesome

Edit: Meant crash bash sorry. This is why you proof read people

Well, you can still get them for that price on Amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B00005QI2S/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Since I'm in the US I frequent ArcadeShock, Focus Attack, and Paradise Arcade Shop. For the UK however I'd assume Amazon UK should have listings similar to this one.

Yeah. I got my PS4 around March and I noticed the left stick being worn off. I never had this issue with my DS3 and they're about 4 yrs old lol

I was looking at these lately.

http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

Really like the Grip It stick covers

Sadly no.. but I highly recommend this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NSLGW2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/video-games/dp/B00005QI2S It was first party for the PS One

I agree with /u/ChaosHat as someone who also used an octo gate for a while that life after using one is a bit better, but that's just personal preference.

Amazon actually has them in stock (and prime eligible to boot) but just know that right now if places aren't sold out, then they're selling for higher than usual. Gates are cheap enough though that the "higher than usual" price is still only $10.

I got a set of these from a LootCrate. Slapped them on my PS4 controller and never looked back. When I pick up my wife's controller, without them, it feels...naked. Like I'm touching something I shouldn't be.

Pick up a set of these to keep your PS4 sticks in good shape or cover a top that the rubber has already worn off of.

http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-Xbox-360/dp/B003NSLGW2

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NSLGW2

Rubber thumb grips provide a lot of friction.

Razer Atrox(https://www.razerzone.com/gaming-controllers/razer-atrox-xbox-one) $200
Very simple to customize btw

Or

Hori RAP V. Kai(https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Arcade-Pro-V-Fighting-Stick-Windows/dp/B0136JP894) $150

A simple way to make these work on PS4 is using a X1 to PS4 converters.

Like the Brook converters for (https://www.amazon.com/Gam3Gear-PS4-Converter-Gaming-Adapter-Keychain/dp/B01GDVGQ48) $43.90

Pro Tip: Get a Octagonal Restrictor Plate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004AU0H4U/ref=pd_aw_fbt_63_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3TFQJ8N725SNJZ5THP1J) $6.54

For the mic, I recommend https://www.amazon.com/Sony-PlayStation-Camera-Bulk-Packaging-Pc/dp/B0072I2240/ if you're looking for something cheap that works. Were you able to get your Alexa working in headless mode? I couldn't get it to work following Amazon's documentation, had to reformat and do full OS install.

I played a few PS1 RPGs one-handed with this.

You could play some old PSX RPGs with this baby.

https://www.amazon.com/Agetec-ASCII-Grip/dp/B00001ZUW8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473450158&sr=8-1&keywords=ps1+controller+one+hand

Nah, it was a thing. IIRC it's popular for portable console mods.

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-PSone-LCD-Screen-SCPH-131-playstation/dp/B00005QI2S

> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NSLGW2
I bought these after someone suggested them on this subreddit. they are pretty good for ps4 but don't fit as snug on 360.

If you are past your warranty, buy yourself some Grip-Its. Many people prefer to use these over the feel of the normal joysticks anyways. Beats having to buy a new controller, and you might just prefer them as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

For the second part of your post, I think you're talking about the PSOne with the screen attachment.

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-PSone-LCD-Screen-SCPH-131-playstation/dp/B00005QI2S

I got some of these because I had the same problem. They're pretty good. I'd prefer to not use them, but they work.

Amazon

I can't find anything I'd recommend on aliexpress, sorry.

If your TV has composite inputs (the red/white/yellow RCA plugs), you can get those cheap on Amazon.


https://www.amazon.com/Mudder-Meters-Composite-Cable-Sony-Playstation/dp/B06Y5KJ2XK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2VKCIIBOJ9HB1&keywords=ps2+av+cable&qid=1567831074&s=gateway&sprefix=ps2+av+%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-3


Even new model TVs these days typically have at least one set of composite and/or component inputs; If not the actual RCA plugs on the TV itself, they usually connect via a breakout adapter that they include with the TV.


If you have none of the above and HDMI is your only option, you can get a powered HDMI adapter for the PS2's AV output instead.


https://www.amazon.com/Link-Cable-PlayStation-All-Models/dp/B07MYVF61Y/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2VKCIIBOJ9HB1&keywords=ps2+av+cable&qid=1567830916&s=gateway&sprefix=ps2+av+%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-7

No issues at all, in fact the thumbsticks are the best I've ever used on a controller. You can always look into thumbstick grips if your worried about damage or if you don't find them as comfortable http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

If you are buying off ebay I know a lot of day one controllers had issues with the left stick being faulty but the normal controllers are fine

worth more than gold in Canada: http://www.amazon.ca/Grip--Analog-Stick-Covers-Xbox/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393722305&sr=8-1&keywords=grip+its

Next time, just get [some of these] (http://www.amazon.com/Grip--Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405196366&sr=1-10&keywords=joystick+pads). ;)

Analog stick: http://www.ultimarc.com/ultrastik_info.html

Cost: $60

Sanwa Buttons: https://www.amazon.com/White-Sanwa-Push-Buttons-OBSF-30-W/dp/B00367KDVU

Cost for 2 sets: $30

Yes the cost is double, but then you need to consider the routing time to create the extra holes for all the buttons, assembly time, and possibly other variables. At that point, cost could be closer to each other. But ultimately, an analog stick makes more sense then "button modifiers", which is more at risk of being banned compared to an analog stick.

Researching is fun before posting.

Hey so I just asked this in another sub and two people recommended these: http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2

http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T500RS-Racing-Wheel-Playstation-3/dp/B004J6KRD6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463085209&sr=8-1&keywords=Thrustmaster+T500rs

look no further, works on PC :)

You can get a Sanwa JLF octogate from Amazon:

https://smile.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486516000&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=jlf+octogate

It's selling on Amazon with prime for 6.99$ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AU0H4U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Nj0czbFECTB5Z

Amazon has a backpack in their basics line that fits both. $70, 4.5 stars, 13 reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-PlayStation-Virtual-Reality-Backpack-4/dp/B07BG59N25/