Reddit mentions: The best plumbing supplies
We found 1,193 Reddit comments discussing the best plumbing supplies. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 613 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. 008 Buna-N O-Ring, 50A Durometer, Round, Black, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Width (Pack of 125)
- Made of Buna-nitrile (also called Buna-N) for use with a variety of fluids from petroleum to aliphatic hydrocarbons
- Durometer (hardness) of 50A for resistance to penetration
- Round cross-section to provide a seal between cylindrical overlapping surfaces
- For use across a wide temperature range from -30 degrees F/-34 degrees C to 250 degrees F/121 degrees C
- Meets standards defined by Aerospace Standard AS568A
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Size | 008 |
Number of items | 125 |
2. 008 Buna-N O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Black, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Width (Pack of 100)
- Made of Buna-nitrile (also called Buna-N) for use with a variety of fluids and hydrocarbons
- Can be used across a wide temperature range from -30 degrees F (-34 degrees C) to 250 degrees F (121 degrees C)
- Round in cross-section to provide a seal between cylindrical overlapping surfaces
- Durometer (hardness) of 70A for resistance to penetration
- Meets standards defined by Aerospace Standard AS568A
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
Size | 008 |
Number of items | 100 |
3. Regular 5/16" Auto Siphon with 8 feet of Tubing, clear, 1 piece
- Disassembles easily for cleaning
- Clear tubing to see the liquid while transferring
- Designed to minimize pick-up of sediment during transfer
- The auto siphon is one of the best purchases you can make as a new home brewer
- package dimensions :4.445 cm L x 12.7 cm W x 60.96 cm H
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 9 Inches |
Length | 1.3 Inches |
Width | 23.9 Inches |
Release date | November 2017 |
Size | 1 Pack |
Number of items | 1 |
4. HomeBrewStuff 1/2" Stainless Steel Valve Weldless Bulkhead for Home Brew Kettle
- 1/2" Weldless bulkhead fitting fits 7/8" kettle hole.
- Stainless steel full port ball valve
- 1/2" Stainless hose barb
- High temp silicone seals
- Installation instructions
Features:
Specs:
Color | Stainless Steel |
Height | 0.7 Inches |
Length | 5.6 Inches |
Weight | 0.95 Pounds |
Width | 5.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
5. ATP Vinyl-Flex PVC Food Grade Plastic Tubing, Clear, 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD, 100 feet Length
- PEI is a strong, rigid plastic that withstands high temperatures and offers excellent electrical insulation over a wide range of temperatures
- Color is opaque Natural
- Meets ASTM D5205 PEI0113 specifications
- Note: The Standard Cut Tolerance on the Width and Length is (+/-) 3/16”
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear |
6. White Silicone Rubber Tubing, Food Grade
Flexible tubing for air, water, food, and beverageSilicone rubber for resistance to high temperatures, oils, detergents, ozone, and salt waterTranslucent for visual inspection of fluidsOperating temperature range of -150 to +500 degrees FMeets NSF-51 standards for food equipment material
Specs:
Color | White |
7. DIGITEN DC 12V 1/4" Inlet Feed Water Solenoid Valve Quick Connect N/C normally Closed
- DC 12V 1/4" Quick connect Solenoid valve.
- Turn on water when system start;and cut off water when system stop.
- Working pressure:0.02-0.8Mpa. Its working temperature:32-158℉ (0-70℃).
- Rated power:4.8W.
- It will become hot because there are so many coils inside. It’s normal and safe phenomenon. The highest working temperature of this product reaches 60℃. If you want it works long hours, you should find a N/O normally open solenoid valve.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.71 Inches |
Length | 2.4 Inches |
Width | 0.91 Inches |
Size | 0.02-0.8Mpa |
8. 1482
- Sleeve for a tube compression fitting
- Connects to 1/4" copper, brass, aluminum, or plastic tubing
- Brass for corrosion resistance, ductility at high temperatures, and low magnetic permeability
- Operating temperature range of -65 to +250 degrees F
- No flaring tool required for assembly
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.5748 Inches |
Length | 6.10235 Inches |
Weight | 0.7495716908 Pounds |
Width | 6.10235 Inches |
9. Kerick Valve MA052 PVC Mini Float Valve, Tank Mount, Adjustable Arm, 1.5 gpm at 60 psi, 1/2" NPT Male
- Estimated rate of flow up to 1.5 gpm at 60 psi
- PVC for corrosion resistance
- Tank mount with extended threads on inlet side of valve for mounting through tank wall
- Note: MA052 has a 1/2 NPT pipe thread. This is extremely common in the plumbing world. The thread measures about 3/4 of an inch in diameter, this is a common mistake to those who are unfamiliar with pipe threads and plumbing
- 1/2" NPT male threaded inlet and free-flow outlet
Features:
Specs:
Height | 12.7 Inches |
Length | 10.4 Inches |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 3.3 Inches |
Size | 0.5 Inch |
Number of items | 1 |
10. White SiliconeTubing, 3/8"ID, 1/2"OD, 1/16" Wall, 10' Length
- Flexible tubing for air, water, food, and beverage
- Silicone rubber for resistance to high temperatures, oils, detergents, ozone, and salt water
- Translucent for visual inspection of fluids
- Operating temperature range of -150 to +500 degrees F
- Meets NSF-51 standards for food equipment material
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Number of items | 1 |
11. bayite 12V DC Fresh Water Pump with 2 Hose Clamps 12 Volt Diaphragm Pump Self Priming Sprayer Pump with Pressure Switch 4.5 L/Min 1.2 GPM 80 PSI Adjustable for RV Camper Marine Boat Lawn
- The patented design delivers smooth & consistent flow at all ranges of operation, while drawing low current
- Inlet and Outlet: 3/8-inch hose barb ports. Vertical Suction Lift: 6.6ft (2m). Adjustable CUT-OFF Pressure: Default 80-85PSI, MAX 100 PSI(5.5Bar). It doesn't mean 4.5L/min jet at 100PSI. Comes with 2 tube clamps
- The pump body is sealed to prevent incidental moisture and dust from entering. The pump can not run continuously more than 6 hours. Able to operate in a wet environment. Self priming function allows it to be mounted above water tank
- Sealed switches and electro coating to inhibit corrosion. Soft rubber mounting tabs to reduce vibrations. When installed correctly, Marine Duty Fresh Water Pumps provide years of quiet operation
- The pump in combination with a low backpressure water system can exceed all expectations
Features:
Specs:
Height | 4 Inches |
Length | 8 Inches |
Weight | 0.881849048 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
12. Control Devices CR Series Brass Pressure Relief Valve, 0-100 psi Adjustable Pressure Range, 1/4" Male NPT
- Relief pressure adjustable from 0 to 100 psi
- 1/4" male NPT threaded inlet connection
- Brass construction and stainless steel spring for corrosion resistance
- Silicon O-ring provides leak-proof seal to within 10 percent of set pressure
- Micrometer-style nylon knob for pressure relief adjustment
Features:
Specs:
Color | Original Version |
Size | 0.25 Inch |
Number of items | 1 |
13. Eowpower 10 Pcs PC4-M6 Pneumatic Air Straight Quick Fitting 4mm Thread M6 One Touch Hose Connector
- Material : Copper, Plastic
- Thread Diameter : 6mm;Inner Diameter(Blue End) : 4mm
- Package Content : 10 x Quick Fittings
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue,Copper |
Number of items | 1 |
14. Eaton Weatherhead 60X4 Compression Sleeve, CA360 Brass, 1/4" Tube OD, 0.3400" Sleeve OD
- Sleeve for a tube compression fitting
- Connects to 1/4" copper, brass, aluminum, or plastic tubing
- Brass for corrosion resistance, ductility at high temperatures, and low magnetic permeability
- Operating temperature range of -65 to +250 degrees F
- No flaring tool required for assembly
Features:
Specs:
Color | Copper |
Weight | 0.05 Pounds |
Size | 1/4" Tube OD |
Number of items | 1 |
15. General Hydroponics HGC728040 Dual Diaphragm Air Pump 320 GPH 4 Outlet
- General Hydroponics Dual Diaphragm air pump is the only air pump in the world that is manufactured exclusively for use with hydroponics systems
- This high output pump (320 mph/24, 800 cc/minute capacities) has four adjustable 1/4" outputs
- In addition, growers who use our Dual Diaphragm air pump can count on it to reliably oxygenate their reservoir with air stones
- Made in South Korea
Features:
Specs:
Height | 6.1 Inches |
Length | 7.1 Inches |
Weight | 1.36 Pounds |
Width | 5.2 Inches |
Size | 1-(Pack) |
Number of items | 1 |
16. 2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm (3x4mm)
Material: Aluminum alloy; Size: 25x19mm( L*D)Feature: Set screws (Coiling Clamping); Main Color: Silver toneThe shaft couplers are widely applied to small CNC machines encoding and 3D printers Z shaft coupling, simplifies the debugging difficulty.
17. Univen High Temp Food Grade Clear Silicone Tubing 9mm ID X 13mm OD Per Foot
- Food-Grade Silicone Tubing
- 9mm Inner Diameter and 13mm Outer Diameter
- Typically Used In Coffeemakers and Other Equipment
- Price is Per Foot, Sold as One Length - Example: Order 3 and Receive One 3-ft. Piece
- High Temperature
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear |
18. Weldless 316 Stainless Steel Ball Valve with Bulkhead and 1/2 Inch Nipple
- 316 Stainless Steel Ball Valve
- 304 Stainless Steel Nipple and Bulkhead
- 2 High Temp Silicone Orings
- Easy to Install
- 1/2" Inch Barbed Outlet
Features:
Specs:
Color | Stainless |
19. Lifegard Aquatics 1/2-Inch Standard Threaded Bulkhead
- Heavy wall bulkhead is molded of highest impact resistant PVC eliminating possibility of finding hidden cracks when filling aquarium
- Stock color is jet black to match acrylic tank backgrounds
- All kits contain: bulkhead fitting, gasket, lock nut
- 1/2-Inch Standard Threaded x Slip Bulkhead
Features:
Specs:
Color | jet black |
Height | 1.5 Inches |
Length | 2 Inches |
Weight | 0.03 Pounds |
Width | 1.5 Inches |
Size | 1/2 Inch |
Number of items | 1 |
20. GF Piping Systems PVC Pipe Fitting, Reducing Tee, Schedule 40, White, 3/4" x 1/2" x 3/4" Slip Socket
- Schedule 40
- White
- 3/4" x 1/2" x 3/4" Slip Socket
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Size | 3/4" x 1/2" x 3/4" |
Number of items | 1 |
🎓 Reddit experts on plumbing supplies
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where plumbing supplies are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.
The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.
> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.
> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.
Original second level comment begins:
Final Tips: Bonus Round!
There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:
Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..
^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!
Kombucha is fairly forgiving, but the following might help:
I hope that helps :)
>Recently I clicked on a sponsored post that claimed that there is a way to hack Amazon search functionality and force it to do undocumented things. The link pointed to a site called SortByPrime (http://www.sortbyprime.com). I was skeptical at first, but after using the site for a few weeks I must say it is indeed pretty amazing. The site itself is bare bones with no documentation provided, so I thought I would write up some of the things that I learned to do with that tool in order to make the most out of my Prime membership.
>
>First, here are the features that I find myself using the most (I tried to find other tools with similar functionality to verify sbp's exclusivity claim and couldn't find any).
>
>Filter search results by Prime price. It is important to note that this is NOT the same as checking the Prime box on the regular Amazon search results page and using the price filters there. When you use Amazon native functionality and, say, specify your desired price range between 0 and 25 dollars and check the Prime box, you will get all items that have the lowest marketplace offer within that range. Prime price in that scenario may be greater than 25, but as long as there is a non-Prime seller with a listing within the range that you specified (not including shipping), the item will be included in search results. When you use the price range filter on sbp, you get ONLY items with a Prime price within that range.
>
>Sort by prime price (I guess that is where the name of the site comes from). Again, this is not the same as just sorting by price on the Amazon page and checking the Prime box. Similar to the explanation above, when you use Amazon's built-in search you are effectively sorting by lowest offer on each item excluding shipping. All the Prime check box does there is display the Prime price on search results, which is why the sorting always appears broken.
>Exclude Prime Pantry items. The introduction of Prime Pantry on Amazon always annoyed me. While I understand that the program has a certain value, the inability to exclude Pantry items from search results always drove me nuts and there seemingly no way to filter them out. Sbp was the only tool I found that provides you with the option to exclude Pantry items from search results.
>
>Lastly, this is not really a feature, but more of a side effect of how the tool is designed, I like that I can configure all my settings before opening the Amazon window, therefore saving the multiple postbacks of the entire page to get all the search parameters just right.
>Now, here are some recipes for cool things you can do on sortbyprime.
>
>Find thousands of free Kindle books:
>1. Select "Kindle Store" in the Department dropdown.
>2. Enter "-subscription" (note the minus sign in front) to exclude magazine subscriptions.
>3. Enter 0.01 in the Price To textbox.
>4. Select "All Merchants" in the Merchant dropdown,
>5. Hit the Go button and enjoy ~75,000 free Kindle eBooks.
>
>Find all Prime-delivered items that can be yours for less than the price of a postage stamp:
>1. Make sure "All Departments" is selected in the Department dropdown.
>2. Enter 0.02 in the Prime Price From textbox (to filter out free digital content) and 0.49 in the Prime Price To textbox (or any amount you like, I am entering the current price of a stamp for the sake of making a point).
>3. Make sure the Merchant dropdown is set to "Amazon".
>4. In the Add-On Items dropdown select "Exclude".
>5. In the Prime Pantry Items dropdown select "Exclude".
>6. Hit the Go button and enjoy your PVC Pipe Fitting (http://www.amazon.com/GF-Piping-Systems-Reducing-Schedule/dp/B008O1XHF2/) for 10 cents delivered to your house.
>
>Find cheap Subscribe & Save items to get the 15% S&S discount:
>1. Make sure "All Departments" is selected in the Department dropdown.
>2. Enter 1.50 in the Prime Price To textbox.
>3. Make sure the Merchant dropdown is set to "Amazon".
>4. In the Subscribe & Save Items Only dropdown select "Yes".
>5. Hit the Go button and save 15% on your entire S&S delivery when you subscribe to 5 or more items.
>
>Sorry if you guys already know all this, but I thought I'd share.
Don't buy a kit! They sell you all kinds of shit you won't use when there are better options for similar money.
Get a brewing bucket as if you don't have a bottler then this will make your life so much better.
Get 2 carboys (glass is best but better bottles will work too). Check Craigslist for these...you can get some awesome deals.
Get 1 Refractomoeter instead of a hydrometer because they use WAY less of your must to calculate and they aren't mega fragile like hydrometers are.
You will want an auto siphon
You will want a carboy brush that fits on a cordless drill because cleaning a carboy without one fucking sucks (and for 18 bucks this is a no brainer).
You will need sanitizer. I personally like Iodophor because it's super cheap, it doesn't really foam up and it lasts forever. I bought one of THESE bottles like 2 years ago and it is about half full even though I brew between 50-100 gallons a year.
I always advocate people start with beer bottles rather than wine bottles. The reason for this has less to do with the bottles and more to do with equipment. The Ferrari Bottle Capper is 14 dollars while a good floor corker for wine bottles will set you back 60 bucks. In addition, it's cheaper to bottle in 20 ounce beer bottles with caps rather than in wine bottles with good corks. Use of a double lever corker for wine bottles should be considered a war crime...seriously...unless you're a masochist who loves dumping wine everywhere and having to clean it afterwards...then just avoid them...they are absolutely awful.
If you go the wine bottle route then NEVER use agglomerated or colmated corks (the ones made from tiny pieces of cork glued together) as they fall apart and will leave chunks in your bottles. In addition they don't age well, so you are much more likely to lose your brew to spoilage. I like synthetic Nomacorc but you can also buy very good quality solid natural corks as well.
Good oxygen absorbing bottle caps on the other hand are mega cheap. Again...this isn't about one being better than the other, so you can use either one.
For wine bottles, I REALLY like the ones with screw tops because they make it nice and easy to cap your bottles once opened. But for all of your bottles buy these locally...shipping will double or triple the cost of these vs buying locally. I get them for 15 bucks a case a few miles from my house...they're almost 30 a case on Amazon or close to that from Midwest or from Ohio (shipping is like 11-15 dollars a case.)
For beer bottles...I prefer clear, but they'll be tough to find locally so I often end up with brown ones. Again...buy these locally not online due to shipping costs. Your local brewing supply stores buy these pallets at a time so even Amazon can't compete with the lack of shipping costs.
Since we are all talking about Prime, I am going to do a shameless plug for a tool that I wrote for all the prime-a-holics like me -- www.sortbyprime.com. With its help I can for once feel that I am taking advantage of Prime instead of Prime taking advantage of me.
Here are the things you can do with it (kindly written up by /u/cheresier):
Filter search results by Prime price. It is important to note that this is NOT the same as checking the Prime box on the regular Amazon search results page and using the price filters there. When you use Amazon native functionality and, say, specify your desired price range between 0 and 25 dollars and check the Prime box, you will get all items that have the lowest marketplace offer within that range. Prime price in that scenario may be greater than 25, but as long as there is a non-Prime seller with a listing within the range that you specified (not including shipping), the item will be included in search results. When you use the price range filter on sbp, you get ONLY items with a Prime price within that range.
Sort by prime price (I guess that is where the name of the site comes from). Again, this is not the same as just sorting by price on the Amazon page and checking the Prime box. Similar to the explanation above, when you use Amazon's built-in search you are effectively sorting by lowest offer on each item excluding shipping. All the Prime check box does there is display the Prime price on search results, which is why the sorting always appears broken.
Exclude Prime Pantry items. The introduction of Prime Pantry on Amazon always annoyed me. While I understand that the program has a certain value, the inability to exclude Pantry items from search results always drove me nuts and there seemingly no way to filter them out. Sbp was the only tool I found that provides you with the option to exclude Pantry items from search results.
Lastly, this is not really a feature, but more of a side effect of how the tool is designed, I like that I can configure all my settings before opening the Amazon window, therefore saving the multiple postbacks of the entire page to get all the search parameters just right.
Now, here are some recipes for cool things you can do on sortbyprime.
Find thousands of free Kindle books:
Find all Prime-delivered items that can be yours for less than the price of a postage stamp:
Find cheap Subscribe & Save items to get the 15% S&S discount:
This is my Full Metal Printed Filco Majestouch-2 TKL
I posted pictures earlier here:
http://redd.it/1i58od
It is made using the following:
FAQ:
The only way I was able to get the modifiers was to simply buy the entire 87 key set. I really wish I was able to buy each key I needed separately, I am now forced to sell my old zinc keycaps.
Yes, They are also available unprinted. I posted pictures earlier of an unprinted set on geekhack when I ordered my keycaps. The aluminum case pictured below is a MKC case and is much more expensive then the Vortex. http://i.imgur.com/BMf6cQ5.jpg
Currently it's like typing on "light blue" as the wieght of the keys lightens the actuation force required. I also added o-rings http://amzn.com/B0051XWXCE (be sure to order 2 sets) to give it a bit of a bounce when it bottoms out which is great as I type heavy. The noise it makes is distinctive and satisfying even with the o-rings.
The green fingers and distinct smell of zinc keys are from unplated zinc keycaps and since these are plated it is not an issue.
I can usually wipe off any residue with my fingers. Zinc keycaps are fairly resistant to marks or stains and very easy to clean as well. The plated metal does not show any noticeable fingerprints and it is very difficult to see any fingerprint residue even in the brightest of lights. No matter which keyboard you own be sure you have some isopropyl rubbing alcohol available for cleaning up.
$215 Keycaps $150 Case $150 Keyboard $16 O-rings. I will hopefully be able to sell the Ninja keycaps and Filco case and other accessories that I accumulated to help fund part of the cost. All items I currently have available will be in my Album http://imgur.com/a/5tsOm or on /r/mechmarket
The best way I found to get started is to just get a gallon jug carboy, some starsan, some montrachet wine yeast, yeast nutrients, and 100% grape juice from your local grocery store.
The starsan is a concentrate, I put about a capful into a 2 liter bottle, fill it up with water, and keep it under my sink. It's an antiseptic rinse that should splash over everything that's going to touch the juice; airlock, bottle, your hands, the scissors you use, all that stuff. It doesn't even needed to be rinsed, just shake the bottle out and go to town.
Once you've rinsed, put the juice, yeast nutrients, and yeast in the bottle. Put some water in the airlock and put it on top. Put the bottle of juice and yeast in a dark cool spot until you can easily see a flashlight shine through it, about 2 months or so.
While it's doing it's thing collect 5 old wine bottles or get some from a brew supply store. Old liquor bottles work great, just rinse them good and then splash starsan around inside.
Buy a racking cane! This significantly simplifies the process of getting wine out of the jug without sucking up all the dead yeast at the bottom. Run starsan through it at first, filling the starsan cup with water as it gets siphoned out so that the inside is all nice and clean.
Rack that wine out of the jug and into bottles. That's it! Age for six months if you want, but I often just mix in a little fresh grape juice to sweeten it up a bit right there in my cup and go to town right away, hence my inability to age it.
The only regular cost is the juice. I like to get the frozen 100% juice on sale because I'm doing 15 gallon batches these days (because I'm going to outpace my thirst, darn it), I use about 14 of those per 5 gallon carboy and fill the rest up with spring water from the grocery store.
I also use 4 cups of 5 minute boiled raw sugar in each 5 gallon carboy of juice to boost the abv, but this is personal taste. It makes the wine taste pretty hot but it also has a solid kick to it so I don't mind. After I mix it with a bit of fresh grape juice it just tastes like a light sweet wine and I have a very good time with it.
Hey mahm0udin
I use the 5 gal version now, but I think the 10 Gal would be perfect for both methods because you get a healthy grain bed for filtering when brewing big or small.
You will want to install a Weldless ball valve with a Nipple on the inside of the mash tun.
You will also want one of these false bottoms and a piece of silicon pipe to join it to the internal ball valve nipple
Woo, that was a lot of links :) This is my setup and it works a treat :)
Mash tun cooler (this is probably cheaper at your local hardware store or wal mart) Also, this isn't the only cooler that works. Pretty much any plastic cooler works. But you'll need a different false bottom if you use a chest cooler, which may allow you to mash bigger batches.
Weldless Ball Valve Just take the plastic valve off the cooler and screw this one on. Will work on most any cooler you choose.
False bottom Put this at the bottom, connecting the silicon hose to the ball valve and the top of the false bottom.
3/8" barb You'll need to screw this onto the ball valve on the inside of the mash tun to connect the silicon hose to.
Honestly, if you've already got a kettle that can boil 6 gallons, you're good to go there, and just add this to the mix. Otherwise, pick up a Stainless Steel Brew Kettle.
This whole setup comes in just under $200 but you'll need some hoses and some hose clamps as well. But I'm sure that if you shop around (even on amazon) you might find better deals than I linked. But that's the gist of it. And there's no need to stick with the specific brands I linked. But just make sure to stick with stainless steel for the kettle, ball valve, and connecting accessories and food-grade plastic for the cooler. And any hoses need to be high temp hoses. Silicon is ideal.
This is by no means the "only" way to do it, but a great start down the road. You may also choose to use a pump. It has advantages and disadvantages. You can make great beer with and without one.
> I also don't have any thermal paste yet
> Oh, it also looks like I need a keyboard! Any suggestions
Edit: For some more exotic mechanical keyboards keep an eye on MassDrop.com - Often have cool ones like this: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/leopold-fc660m
TLDR: The "Full kit" looks like it has the basics. As others have said, you might want a food-grade plastic bucket for primary fermentation, and you'll need bottles/containers to store the end product in.
If it were a "complete" kit I'd probably put one together which included One step sanitizer to sanitize equipment,a plastic fermentation bucket, and an auto-syphon to make racking (i.e., transferring the liquid from container to container) easier.
If it's something you're interested in pursuing further, there's plenty more you could consider picking up. A bottle filler for the auto syphon, a filtration kit to help clarify wine/mead, fining products, you might want to look into picking up more things like yeast energizer and yeast nutrient (which it sounds like this kit comes with some) and sulfate/sorbate (to stabilize the mead before back-sweetening) etc.
There are lots of recipes and lots of help available, so read up and feel free to ask questions and have a lot of fun experimenting and trying new things :)
I AM NOT AN EXPERT MANY PEOPLE KNOW FAR MORE THEN I DO, MAYBE THEY WILL INTERJECT IF I AM WRONG
Alright, let me guide you away from the starter kit. It has helped me know what I'm doing, and develop my process, thinking about and acquiring the pieces I would need. Let's say to start off with you just are busting to brew! Can't contain it anymore!
Start off with these three things
This Pot
This Cooker
-and I know it's not prime shipping but one of these
Plastic Carboys for $25.53 CDN with airlock and stopper
alright so baring the cost of shipping from AiH, plus a propane tank, siphon/tubing, and sanitizer. your looking at a cool $149.25 CDN for a bare bones basic kit for extract brewing.
Now you get a little more fancy, and throw in
This Auto Siphon
this brew in a bag
and this thermometer
and you right around $210 CDN minus a big ass spoon and bottling bucket that would be all you need to do all grain brewing from a bare bones stand point (ok baring ingredients also) but I think you could get off cheaper.. or at least better gear for the same money. especially since the kit you picked out doesn't even have a propane burner or pot this is a hell of a steal. You could go all out, buying a mini fridge and temperature controller for fermentation, an immersion chiller so your not icing down your beer post boil in a bathtub, custom mash paddles, etc.
What I got mad about when I started brewing was how much people were charging for what amounted too a couple of buckets, airlocks, benchcappers, and some "literature". When if you pieced it out it was more like price gauging because I did't know what I was doing.
Either way you go about it, welcome to paradise! Just wait till everyone starts rolling their eyes, when you bring up beer so you seek out friends that brew and you all start your big group beer tastings, I ♥ my beer buddies.
TL;DR : Here's an arguably better (and more utilized) "starter kits" of sorts for a basic bare bones set up. From a newly all grain brewer in a college apt
Sure! I got into it pretty heavy with a grand or two in brewing equipment at one point. A seltzer kit is pretty basic because you don't have to boil or "make" anything, but the gear will still nickel and dime you to death:
The rest of the cost is going to be in refrigeration and faucets, if you want to go that route. You can also get party faucets like you see on commercial rentable taps which do just fine but a nice chrome faucet looks and works better if you have the right setup.
Assuming you drink ~3 cases La Croix a week at $3/case (12 pack) that would end up around $36-40/month which would take 12-14 months to even out if you end up spending $500 or so on the entire setup, but that's retail and that's assuming your La Croix is only $3. We can only find it around here for $5 :/ Check Craigslist frequently and you'll find deals from people like me who need to get rid of their equipment en masse. Cost of the seltzer is almost negligible if you do plain fizzy water. If you do citrus I think I used ~20oz for 5 gal of my last batch which was 15-20 lemons/limes. A 5 gallon batch equals out to around 50 12oz drinks so the cost of 4+ cases of fizzy water is cut down to the cost of 20 lemons or $5-10.
tl;dr- initial cost is high but it will pay for itself in a year or less and think of all the cans that won't get dumped back into the world.
Edit: If you can find a system like this you'll be golden. It has all the parts I just listed including a nice chrome faucet and tower. All you'd need to do is pick up a used keg and the proper connectors which could easily be found for <$75.
Hey - here is the hardware that I use to record my consoles (including Wii U) HERE
It will record anything that outputs video via a HDMI cable (or composite), and records on your PC via a USB cable and software that comes on the disc included with the hardware.
For recording your son (video/audio), he will need a camera and a microphone that can have its files eventually saved onto a PC for editing. I don't record any video of myself, but I use a Dictaphone (I paid around £80 for a decent one) to record myself talking and can connect it via USB to my PC where I join up the video (and game audio) taken from the games console and the audio (from my dictaphone) in video editing software (you can use any software that you can combine a separate audio file to a pre-existing video file).
I choose to record my Audio on a separate device, opposed to buying a microphone to record audio directly on my PC, as my PC is quite slow and does struggle to record both the game video and audio at the same time. Might be something to take into consideration if your PC is quite old.
I hope that helps :) however, as someone else has stated here, Nintendo get really funny about people uploading their games to Youtube. Technically Youtube stipulates that you can upload game footage as long as someone is talking over it and the commentary adds educational or instructional value to the game - a lot of people would argue comedic commentary also fits into this legally.
Basil, as with all plants, enjoy lots of air. The more air the merrier. The container they are in looks like 14-18 gallon, for which I would recommend an 18 watt ecoplus pump, or even better this diaphragm pump, which though expensive, puts out amazing amounts of air and does not overheat. My watermelons loved it.
Hey friend. you're on the right track with your idea to drill a hole and plumb it to a larger tank. Be careful when you choose the spot to drill. You don't want to drill in to a very round side, as that will be harder to make watertight. i would recommend trying to find a nice flat spot, just below the max fill of that unit's tank, and then drilling a hole for a bulkhead fitting(so that its watertight) and then just attach a hose to the drain end of the fitting and you can just set the other end of the hose in to a 5 gallon bucket below the unit or something.
a 1/2 bulkhead fitting is less than 5$ on amazon(also might not hurt to look around for a smaller sized one of these, as a 1 1/2" hole may be kind of big for this small tank) i only looked around for a second.
https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Standard-Threaded-Bulkhead/dp/B0002Z7U1K/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=bulkhead+drain+with+gasket&qid=1565284477&s=gateway&sr=8-15
If you go with this route, i would get a step bit (drill bit for drilling a precise hole by gradually widening it)
https://www.amazon.com/Knoweasy-Sizes-Titanium-Drill-Drilling/dp/B07NKXLTCB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=step+bit&qid=1565284634&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMEU0WExMM0Y1NUNZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDQzOTM5RjNOQkZRRFgzUVFXJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODExNDgyUEtUR1lBS1NJNzM4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
then you would just need a female 1/2 thread to 1/4" barbed fitting and some 1/4 tubing to run to the bucket. I have similar setups to this for top-off tanks in my hydro systems. If you need any help figuring it out and sourcing parts, just shoot me a message!
Best of luck!!
Found these couplers on Amazon. Two for $4. Need to test but sofar it looks good.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018VE5YAW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Edit: This is a better solution than the 3dprint couplers available on thingsverse that I've tried. The reason is that the printed couplers clamp on the stepper motor shaft transferring the entire load of the X axis assembly to the bottom stepper motor bearing. This new coupler, like the Malyan original, retains the two nylon washers and transfers the load to the top bearing surface which is fixed to the motor case and printer chassis.
This one?
https://www.amazon.ca/General-Hydroponics-Dual-Diaphragm-Pump/dp/B008UF9XLY
I have one, picked it up from indoorgrowingcanada.com and I love it. I had a Fluval Q1(45-80gal) running 2x 8" stones in rez and a Q2(50-160gal) running 5x 4" one in each pail.
I now could run just with the GH dual with 8x 4" stones and also could easily run the 2x 8" in the rez too (they are still on the Q2 for redundancy reasons) and still have air left over for my aerocloner.
Make sure to hang it upside down by the base for quietest operation, but its easily as quiet as my smaller aquarium pump and moves so much more air just sitting upright on the base. Stay away from the eco air style of pumps if noise is an issue.
The only downside is it doesnt have a 3/8s outlet, so I just fed two 1/4 lines to my manifold inside and same same. The valves are easy to use and seal up good. It doesnt get any hotter than an aquarium pump too.
All in all, im real happy with my purchase.
I just put o-rings on my alphanumerics on MX Clears and I'm enjoying it. It does actually make what I already feel is a quiet keyboard quieter, which was some of my goal. I also feel like it somehow made my typing a little more accurate, but that's likely just in my head. It definitely changed the way the keys feel a little bit, they have a bit of a "tighter" feel for lack of a better word (I'm sure there's someone more fluent in keyboard that can better attest to o-rings on Clears). Personally, I like the change a lot as I almost feel like it makes the keys heavier and the presses more defined. I might change my mind and go without; I've only been using them for 2 days so far.
For anyone considering, honestly, pick some up for $2 with Prime shipping and just try it out for a bit. Worst case scenario you're out of $2 and then you have a vehement negative opinion that you can later share in threads like this, woo!
The support page for the Mini has all the links to mods. To get nice prints, I had to:
You may not have to do all these things, but my printer was a train wreck.
I also put in an E3D v6 hot end for $15 off Amazon and designed a double fan to cool it. You may not need that, but the extra cooling certainly helps with small parts.
I’ll upload some pics of print quality later. I have to head to work now.
Looking for a full-size with MX Browns for general use plus gaming (USA), and the following are all pluses: Mac layout, white LED, detachable cord, simple aesthetics, and "floating keys" like Varmilo (definitely not all hard requirements except full size and Browns).
Current plan is WASD Code (has everything except floating keys, for 150 on Amazon or less if I can wait for MassDrop) with these O-rings (look equivalent to regular red ones), plus Vortex doubleshot PBT+POM backlit white keycaps thick OEM height ones that apparently look great on specifically the Code (plus they match my white Corsair 600T hackintosh case).
Any ideas? Decent cheaper alternatives I hadn't considered? Concerns I should be aware of with this setup? This Ducky One looks like a decent cheaper board at 120 with Browns and white LED, but the availability is listed only as preorder, which sounds to me like “unavailable for who knows how long”.
Apologies for my noobiness, and happy holidays!
I've done a bunch of 1 gallon all-grain batches (and a few 5 gallon extract batches) and want to try my luck with 2.5 gallon all-grain. I bought a 5 gal cooler and a ball valve kit, but would kind of like to swap out the barb on the ball valve for cam lock fittings to make it easier to clean.
What cam lock fittings are best for this type of setup? I'm guessing the "D Style" from looking here but it's a complete guess.
Honestly, if you get a whip adapter for your bong, you can attach a silicone tube to it and just attach the other end to the QQ. I got mine insanely cheap from dhgate right here, or you can get them off of multiple other websites by searching "whip adapter". A 3/8" inner 1/2" outer diameter tube will work perfect for the whip attachment end(this is the one I bought), but might be a little too big and cover the intake hole of the QQ, I'll check when I get home and update this post.
There's also the option of using a hydrotube on top of the QQ like Matt has done in a video, but you would need a silicone attachment to make it fit right.
Edit: looks like that 3/8” inner diameter tuning is literally the PERFECT SIZE for the mouthpiece, you don't even need to hold it on there, amazing.
8gal should be plenty for a kettle. I bought my stainless steel kettle from AIH and I believe they start at 69 with 1 spout. You will need to buy the ball valve and barb fitting but those can be around $15-$20 on amazon. I have another kettle that s aluminum with a spout that was dirt cheap on amazon. They go on sale sometimes for $40ish for 8-10gal, I dont remember which.
The darkstar burner from northern brewer is $a reasonable $50. If you wanted to get something cheaper you would need to scour craigslist.
I am pretty new to brewing still but I stayed away from glass fermenters just because of all the horror photos I have seen on here and HBT. I have 3 plastic fermenters but I haven't yet had 2 going at the same time. If you are in NorCal I would gladly give donate one to you.
As for the rest of the smaller stuff, I would try and find a LHBS. Prices shouldn't vary that much from online. Or you could spring for a kit from nothern brewer that should come with everything.
I have yet to keg so no info on that, but I like bottling. It makes it easier to share with friends and is more portable.
I would advise that you look into getting Premiere Pro for your video editing (it's my personal favourite), or maybe just something as simple as Windows Movie Maker if you are unsure about getting a bigger program.
As for your recording, check out FRAPS or Bandicam for PC recordings.
For console, check out any capture card or HDPVR (High Definition Personal Video Recorder).
My friend has one of these which he uses to record from his and the result is a good quality video.
For your voice recordings, take a look at Audacity which is a good free program for microphone recordings, although you will need a microphone for your computer.
Hit me up if you'll like any more help!
Yeah, I use a keyboard with MX Browns at work and installed o-rings under the switches and it's pretty quiet. I bottom out when I type and even then, I'm pretty sure nobody around me is bothered by it.
For anyone wondering, these are the exact o-rings I bought. Under $2 and shipped with Prime, and they fit perfectly.
It's a 100-pack so I think you might have to buy 2 if you want to cover every key on a full-size keyboard (I used one set of 100 on 2 keyboards, just covering the letter+number+modifier+spacebar/return/backspace keys). But still, buying 2 sets of these is under $4.
A few questions about beer line. I got a great deal on a chest frezer and am building a keezer. I have almost all the parts picked out but need some help with beer line. I was planing on just using this tubing but am now concerned about vinyl flavors in my beer. Honestly the beer will most likely sit in the line for around 48 hours between pours. The two other things I am considering are Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra or Ultra Barrier Silver. I am concerned that I with Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra I will need to extend the lines to much in order to reduce foam. I would really like some insight on the problem I have spent 2 days debating this in my head and would really just like to order some parts so I can enjoy some beer.
I would stay away from that starter kit. Not because its bad per se but its not worth 180 bucks. And I prefer plastic buckets over glass carboys. If you want you can convert a cooler to a mash tun but I would start with BIAB and you then can increase the complexity of your system as you see fit.
Here is my recommendation of equipment. I am function over form driven when selecting my gear. I find that these items serve their purpose at a reasonable price and are of good quality and unless you want to start doing 15 gallon batches they should serve you well.
Starter Kit
KAB4 Burner
44qt Pot with basket
Ball Valve for Kettle
Thermometer
Bag for BIAB
I would strongly caution against a 35 quart pot. The Bayou Classic 44 quart (11 gallon) pot is only a little more, and it's of dimensions more ameniable to brewing (tall, rather than squat). If you plan to migrate to BiaB, the version with the basket is quite useful; you'll be able to fire your heat source without worrying about scorching the bag.
For ingredients, I would recommend looking around for a LHBS (local homebrew shop). You'll likely not save much money ordering those online, due to their weight/cost ratio, and a LHBS is often the centre of your local community of homebrewers.
With regard to literature, my bible is John Palmer's How To Brew. You can also read the first edition online, but much has been learnt since that was published and the latest edition has current best practices.
That equipment kit is decent, but there are a lot of things in it you'll probably wish you hadn't bought.
You will want:
When moving kombucha from its fermenting vessel into bottles for consumption, I used to pour it through a funnel straight from the jar, but this really stirs everything up and all of that stuff at the bottom ends up in the bottles. You can run it through a strainer if you want some of the larger particles out, but I bought an autosiphon on Amazon and use this to move kombucha around while leaving the gunk behind.
It has really improved the clarity of the bottles I produce and I think the people I give them to appreciate it, because they seem to be afraid of the stuff that floats around or accumulates on the bottom.
Not sure if these are technically meant for a keyboard, and you won't be able to tell someone the exact size rating (in terms of the Cherry MX o-ring thicknesses from the pic I linked) but they're pretty cheap, there are more than enough for a full size keyboard, and they're what I used on my BW Ultimate: Amazon Link.
You need a keycap puller (or a way to get keycaps off) if you don't have one, but those are pretty cheap and easy to find.
It's actually super easy. Bought everything off amazon.
I'll make a full guide later
If you feel it's the mouthpiece itself (doubtful, but whatever) replace it entirely with a length of 5/16" OD vinyl tubing. The tubing fits perfectly so it won't fall out on its own, and if you replace the mouthpiece screen with the ELB top screen the tube slips perfectly right down into the screen.
I did this on mine because I found the end of the mouthpiece getting too hot. The tubing solves that problem and makes it more convenient to hold as well since you don't have to hold the whole thing up to your face.
Personally though I find it hard to believe the mouthpiece itself is the problem. It has a huge air path running through and unless you've got an armadillo stuck in there I find it much more likely it's the screen.
For my own recommendation I would say do an extract beer can kit. You'll get about 40 bottles of beer out of it.
Almost everything below you can get at your local homebrew shop. In fact, many of these items might be part of a "beer starter kit" etc. I do recommend getting the 5 gallon carboy instead of a kit with pails. You'll thank me later. pails can get messy.
Total $128 by my guestimates, but you do get 2 cases of beer out of it and $113 worth of brew equipment. Hell, in Ontario the two cases of beer can easily be more expensive than $128 lol... Not cheap, but everything here you will use over and over and over again (except of course the sugar and the brew kit)
---------------------------------
The Coopers Can Kit comes with instructions to make your beer, a hopped extract and yeast.
After you make your beer it'll be a few weeks before the fermentation is done (which you'll know by hydrometer readings)
In that time you can start getting your stuff together for bottling and carbonating them.
You'll also need (for bottling) 48 empty clean bottles (cleaned and then sanitized with star-san solution) NON TWIST OFF TYPE
A handheld Beer capper
Bottle caps (box)
I gotta run, but this was fun to type out. If you need any help, glad to help ya.
I have the EVO too, and I have a whip. Love it!
As a suggestion, the official whip is hella expensive. You can build your own really easily and maybe ch cheaper.
Tubing
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FOWGGW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Then grab a male and female (probably 18mm, 14 if you need it) from Oregon Glass Blower
http://www.oregonglassblower.com/VAPORIZER-ADAPTERS_c5.htm
Done!
I bought mine and love it.
EDIT: I actually just went and looked at vapeXhales site. Their prices have come down since I looked last time.
Story time... I've had this Filco with blues for awhile and never done anything to it. A few months ago I picked up a CODE with clears and my poor Filco sat abandoned and unloved. Recently, Massdrop did a group buy for Ducky PBT caps and I decided it was time to breathe some new life back into my Filco. I wanted to bring it back to work so I also took the opportunity to install some o-ring dampeners (Amazon, non-referral).
I love the keycaps, they feel great -- I'm a big fan of the texture. The o-rings make a big difference for me because I always bottom out. The one's I ordered from Amazon are a hybrid of the two offered by WASD because I wanted a harder ring with less travel reduction. If you're wishing your blues were a little quieter these are great o-rings.
I have the pot you referenced in the post and KAB4 burner that another poster recommended.
Pot is decent, but you can get better one. I've used it for a year so far, got a bit of a ding on a bottom, but it's ok. It's not super thick, but I guess it makes it lighter. What I would want in a pot is the markings for how much water is there. Another thing is having a valve there to drain the wort, built-in thermometer is nice too, i do BIAB though, so thermometer sticking out can potentially damage the brew bag. The valve you can buy yourself and drill a hole/install it - something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Home-Brew-Stuff-SS-WV2-Stainless/dp/B00420WMUU/
The burner is good, I converted it to natural gas so I don't need to buy propane and worry about it running out in the middle of brewday.
Wow Thanks for the descriptive response!
I'm not very great at electronics, but here is the exact switch I'm using.
As for power source, I'm probably going to use 110 VAC to power the 4 ch relay board. http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-101-70-101-4-Channel-Relay-Module/dp/B0057OC5O8
This is the solenoid I will be using
Thanks! Your post really helped me think it through. Just need to put it to work lol.
I got this keyboard for $50 after rebate, I really enjoy it (my first mechanical). Whenever I go to my college library, I always contemplate bringing the keyboard in to type on the computers because their rubber domed keys feel like I'm trying to type on a keyboard made of Play-Doh. Unresponsive, slow, and generally unpleasant to use.
A word of advice for someone who is thinking about getting a mechanical keyboard, even if the switches don't make much sound, the keys bottoming out / rebounding tend to be quite loud. This is why I invested in some rubber o-rings which limited the sound the keyboard makes when bottoming out. The ones from amazon are similar to the ones that WASDkeyboards sells for $18 (I assume its comparable to the 50A-R). They do influence the feel of the keyboard, but I think the noise reduction is worth it.
Overall, if you've been looking for a good keyboard to get for a new gaming computer, or if you're planning on upgrading to a mechanical keyboard, I would definitely suggest this (even though it is $10 more than what I paid for it).
Edit: If you are new to mechanical keyboards, keep in mind that they are generally taller than dome keyboards (base is roughly 3/4 inch tall). Also, this keyboard isn't fully back-lit if you were looking for a keyboard which is, I advise you look elsewhere.
Monoprice uses really cheap non-standard parts, sorry yours broke. Mine did the same thing a couple weeks ago.
What you really should do is buy this metal extruder assembly for $7, as the 3D printed ones I tried just didn't work well, and I tried several.
You'll also need these new connectors, they're cheap and you can also replace the crappy one on the other end of the Bowden tube while you're at it.
After removing the grub screw on the old extruder gear, use some heat, like a heat gun or a hair dryer, to help you pull off the old extruder feeding gear. Trust me, it's worth it. This new one is million times better. No skipping, no jams, no underextrusion. I suffered with that problem for ever! It all came down to cheap parts.
You should re-callibrate your e-steps, as it's honestly super easy. I think 100 was the number I used. The default is 92, so if you don't want to it won't be that far off.
Edit: /u/Karzdan, this will 100% fix your issue. My print quality really improved, this small upgrade made a huge, huge difference for me. This new spring is much stronger, and the new teeth really grip the filament.
One stone per container is fine. I would buy a better pump like this one https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Dual-Diaphragm-Pump/dp/B008UF9XLY and use that to power all the pumps. I have about 5 of these and they work great.
I've used these they are pretty good, you can get free 2 day shipping too if you have Amazon Prime. Currently out of stock at the moment though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/
This might be a better investment. I use this for my 2F and it works great. You may also want to get a Air lock and a siphon as well.
Looks awesome. I set up an automatic daily water-changer in mine. I let it drain thru a hose-timer connected near the bottom thru a standard garden hose for 2 hours, and I keep a float valve on a second hose-timer to fill it back up.
&#x200B;
tl;dr
hose timer (1 to drain and 1 to fill): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M676JAS/
float valve: https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I
you'll need 2 hoses as well. the timer on the drain end gets clogged sometimes but thats the best i could come up with so far
Funny this comes out the day all the parts for my spund build arrive. Good stuff! Got the parts in question from the chi company, valve and gauge off amazon.
spunding valve
1/4” NPT male x 1/4” JIC female
Nylon Flare Fitting Washers (1/4”)
Stainless Tee 1/4” x 1/4” x 1/4” NPT
Quick Disconnect - gas MFL
Pressure Relief Valve Adjustable Pressure 0-100psi 1/4” NPT
Pressure Gauge 60psi 1/4” NPT
Stand by:
Ball Valve
False Bottom
10 gallon cooler
False Bottom - Valve adapter
Please shop around. I have no doubt you could get some of this stuff for cheaper. I was restricted in that my only form of currency was Amazon gift cards. Especially the adapter could be built / constructed for much cheaper than I paid.
Additionally, instead of the false bottom / adapter, one could simply employ a Bazooka Screen instead of a false bottom, I have just read that false bottoms are more effective and less prone to problems.
DISCLAIMER - Always do your own research and make sure the parts that you are buying are all compatible and properly sized, etc. etc.
Having said that, the parts I listed above are exactly what I ordered and all fit together perfectly, I just needed to go out and buy a female coupler (to attach the valve to the hose from the false bottom) and a washer (per the included instructions with the valve, which had a additional washer for my configuration).
I have these because I think paying $20 for orings is retarded. Typing is fine, maybe just less enjoyable, but still a lot nicer than my old keyboards. It really prevented the ping I used to get from bottoming out, but I feel they are a lot less useful now that I type properly and don't slam the keys.
WASD Keyboards the blue ones will dampen sound the most.
Max Keyboard
Amazon. Both WASD Keyboards and Max Keyboard also has O-rings on Amazon. Free shipping on Max Keyboard's O-rings and Amazon Prime on WASD Keyboards' red O-rings (blues are out of stock).
I honestly wouldn't bother with eBay unless if you want the buyer protection.
If you want cooler vapor with less draw resistance, add a whip.
Unscrew the plastic tip and push on some Silicon tubing 3/8" Inside Diameter, 1/2" outside diameter. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOWGGW/
It allows the vapor to cool more, and smooths it out. I like to attach the tip and just kick back for nice long slow sips of vapor.
Ah thanks!
I was considering getting this thing in the future, but it sounds like that spring filler may be better.
What part isn't sealing for you? at the 10/14/18mm joint on your glass? just pick up a insert sizemm whip adapter on dhgate or similar for cheap.
EDIT: I looked at your post history. Maybe your tubing diameter is too large? Ive had great success with this tubing
Switches: If you're leaning towards Cherry MX switches but are still unsure of which ones you prefer, you can get a switch tester that includes red, black, brown, clear, blue, and green switches, as well as O-rings.
No matter which of switch you choose, it will still produce some noise, due to the key caps bottoming out. If you prefer a long-term keyboard with switches that produce tactile feedback, such as browns, blues, greens, etc., but are worried about the noise, you can get O-rings like these.
Which switch? I also code for lengthy periods of time and would prefer typing with something that produces tactile feedback, like either browns or blues. But since you have roommates, maybe browns would be better... unless they don't mind the click-clack noise, then get the blues since they're more satisfactory to type with. Heavy typer? Maybe you'll prefer greens since they require more force.
Keyboards: Of the keyboards you've narrowed down to, the Das or K70 are good. There're also the non-RGB K70s with single color LEDs that are cheaper than the ones with RGBs and come in red and brown switches.
I've owned the K70s with red LEDs and red switches and currently own the Ducky Minis with green switches. The LEDs on my K70 lasted throughout the time I've used it (< 2 years), but a friend's K70 had some that stopped working several months after use :/ I eventually sold the K70 and prefer green switches and a 60% mechKB since it's more portable.
It's a good board, nothing fancy but it works well, I don't really like flashy, showy things anyways.
Both of mine have MX Clear switches and the original has o-rings and PBT blacked out caps.
18 Cents with Amazon Prime shipping. This is an interesting contest :D
If I win I'd prefer a gift card as I'm saving for some video games, but if you'd rather buy a physical item, I do have some blu rays on my lists less than $5 :)
I find this works best
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O58UIZA/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
There is enough room in the base to carve out and install one of these guys in the base
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Diaphragm-Priming-Pressure-Adjustable/dp/B074MZYS37/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543100993&amp;sr=8-8&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=small+water+pump&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51RkfxQN6rL&amp;ref=plSrch
For extra fun you can also install an inline juicer for a pour and play setup.
Reccomended ass milkshake recipe is-
5 grams psylocybe azuricans
15 peyote buttons
350mg ketamine
3 tabs acid
1/2 bottle of everclear
10g dmt
This is an easy fun home diy boof machine that you can make in under an hour!
Most of these folks are right- blues are pretty noisy even with O-rings, but I will say that O-rings WILL quiet it down a bit. The bottoming out sound of the keycap is quite a bit louder than the actual switch actuating. A user here referred me to some cheap o-rings here that I quite like and would recommend, but it looks like they're not available at the moment. :/
If the reds are softer than the blacks, i don't know how you'll rest your fingers on the keys w/out depressing them. I find the blacks to be ideal for gaming and more than acceptable for typing. If I did more typing than mousing, I'd definitely want browns or blues.
Be sure to get yourself some O-rings though, otherwise you'll need some earplugs.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have 5/16" OD tubing in my keezer. Never had a problem with kinking. Once the tubing gets cold it is pretty stiff anyways. (although the 5/16" OD line is more flexible than the 7/16" lines I have, which is actually nice).
My personal preference for beer line is to buy it cheap and replace it often. Not sure what you ordered but this 3/16" x 5/16" beer line is what I use. When you buy it in 100 ft lengths it is extremely cheap... costs me about 70 cents to replace a beer line, which I do a couple times a year. So much easier than trying to do a thorough clean on a line that has had a sour or very dark beer in it. I flush with a little BLC and Star San between kegs but if it looks at all questionable I just replace the line.
This is safe up to 500 degrees. It'll work perfectly for vaping.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TJ9YQU/ref=biss_dp_sa2
I believe you want to select a 5/16" inner diameter.
I am building a keezer. New to kegging. need some help with what gas and liquid lines I need. I bought a 10# CO2 tank, dual body regulator, and a 3 way gas manifold. My plan is to have a high pressure line out of the regulator for a seltzer water keg and also to force carb. then one line to the 3 way manifold for the 3 other taps at serving pressure.
I'm not sure what type of hose I need for each application, length for beer lines/ seltzer water line etc. Any help is much appreciated.
Edit: what about this for beer line? found on HBF... reviews look good. Is the thin wall a concern?
https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Vinyl-Flex-Plastic-Tubing-Length/dp/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Yes, cooler as a mash tun. My setup is:
Ball valve (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00420WMUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oFpqDb0236QSQ)
Coleman 48qt cooler
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Coleman-48-Qt-Performance-Marine-Cooler-3000003702/206851499
Silicon tubing for transfer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079X3SCFV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UGpqDb43MYVWT
Custom Wilser Brew Bag
https://biabbags.webs.com/
I did not bother with insulating the lid of the cooler. I simply place a long piece of aluminum foil down onto the mash. Works perfectly.
Those o-rings would work. There are different o-rings, I personally have little experience using them. /u/lpwl made a comment in a post a while ago:
>- A thicker O-ring will reduce key travel more than a thinner one.
>In other words :
>- If you want to quiet down the keyboard and soften the landing, get soft o-rings, ie in 40A or 50A durometer.
Here's a good post on his website that goes more into depth about o-rings. And here's a post on Geekhack.
If you want to skip reading all that then from what I've read the 40A-L Red O-Rings ($15) from WASD Keyboards is the most popular choice and Buna-N O-Ring 50A ($7). If you don't mind waiting a long time you can get o-rings on Ebay for $1.08, the measurements of this is very close to the red o-rings from WASD.
Pretty good prices here on Amazon It is slightly thinner than the tubing I got from HBS, but it is still very good. Plenty of sizes, too.
While the Cherry MX Dampeners are probably pretty nice, I couldn't justify throwing an extra $20 on my keyboard so I used these instead:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They fit the stems very well and offer a good amount of dampening without making the keys feel mushy (at least to me). I like it so much that I even put them on my brown-switch k70.
Be aware: your blue switches will still be very clicky, you just won't get the "clack" when you bottom out and the bottoming out distance will be shallower (a plus for me, but that's personal).
fuck yes i want pics. sounds like you almost went with dolch style color scheme.
nice price too. did you end up with brown switches?
o-rings can be really nice if you like to bottom out all the time. i do and it saves my fingers a lot of stress with my insane cave man style of key pounding.
i bought these on amazon. they seem nice enough.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
it is a nice quick little mod. it also allows me to use my board in my cubicle at work. but i use blues. you use browns? you might be able to use browns at an office or at school without disturbing people.
IMO the best thing to do is just replace them periodically. You can buy the line in bulk and it should only cost a dollar or so per line to replace.
If you do want to clean the existing lines you don't really need any equipment. Just put some cleaning solution in an empty keg, pressurize, and run it through.
Was thinking about going with this guy. Bayite 12V DC Fresh Water Pump
I know you don’t know my set up, but you think this would work? I’ve been trying to piece together this project with minimal knowledge on solar, pressure, & volume.
Thanks for the help!
Yeah a pool pump is definitely not a good fit. It is designed for high flow low pressure, you need the opposite.
I found a decent style of pump, an rv pump.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B074MZYS37/ref=mw_dp_cr
This one is a bit small only 1 GPM but it makes 80 PSI and it's cheap.
Something like this would be better but it's more expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-4008-101-E65-Revolution-Water-Pump/dp/B002XM5G70
The first one has a couple reviews about people making portable showers
Going to second giving o-rings a shot, I've got mx browns and some 70A o-rings from Amazon and they definitely quiet it down a lot. They were all of $2, so it's a pretty cheap thing to try. I actually like the stiffer o-rings compared to 50A, I find the softer o-rings leave the keys feeling a bit mushy when bottoming out while gaming.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/
I got these for my keyboard, they fit great!
First off try doing the o-ring modification with these. I found that it cut down on the sound of my mech keyboard and made the keyboard a bit nicer to type on.
If you really want to bail on mechanical though I use this for coding at work and I really like it for that. Otherwise I actually really like apple's usb keyboard with the numpad.
Also my first mech (haven't arrived yet though). I heard people like blues for typing and RTS (I plan to play SC2 on it) but perhaps not for FPS as the clicking might get annoying. The bottoming out probably produces the most noise though, so o-rings are good for that. The nice clicking will remain even with the o-rings. I just got these which are about 1/2 price of "keyboard-specific" o-rings.
That is one but I would just buy one, they are pretty cheap.
2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm (3x4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.cAzCbFNJHW4Z
I got this pump it’s a bit loud but works great.
I'm pretty sure I got 10 feet from here when I made mine, but searching amazon for "food safe silicone tubing" will give you plenty of options. My "orbiter" was functional and cheap--I had the mason jar lying around already. I've used the tubing for 2 jar-bubblers and some whips now, and it works just fine! I don't have some horrible silicone inhalation disease, at least.
Ok, I just finished this project today! Get the led fairy lights that use AA batteries (they last longer and are brighter) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017N85S6M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and some quantity of 5/16" inner diameter tubing (for aquariums, etc.) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
. Thread lights through tubing (I used picture hanging wire as the "guide" wire), and go a little past the connection to the battery pack. I bought some aquarium tube connectors to seal the ends https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LDFTQI2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 , and then wove it between the spokes and attached with small zip ties. Battery packs affixed to spokes with velcro cable ties, for easy on/off for battery change. With the lights coming in 5 packs on Amazon, I did all 3 wheels (yes, trike) and the rest of the frame for under $30. That will buy you 1 1/2 Wheel Brightz.
http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1QT0BXXR3WW3FT9HNMF9
^^ Cheap o-rings. O-rings are essentially all the same (quality-wise, they're just little rubber rings lol). But like puppies said, there are varying sizes/thicknesses that you can choose. The above link is for 70A, browse the related products, as the thicknesses can range from like 50A upwards, look for what you like.
What if you did this:
Fermenting keg > pressure relief valve (set to say 22psi for spunding purposes at room temperature) > oversized tubing that could fit over the pressure relief valve > check valve > co2 keg > spunding valve (like 120-130psi).
Then you could use the co2 keg as a co2 tank.
Pressure relief valve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GDY3CU/ref=as_at/?imprToken=9h1Z-UNJjbEBc2vuAiG75A&amp;slotNum=0&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B007GDY3CU&amp;linkCode=w61&amp;tag=hombrefin-20&amp;linkId=CNQ6I4IKSFEAO43T
Corsair K70 RGB (MX Reds) here,
Totally agree with this guy, the O rings make a nice difference, there is less travel but you get used to it. I was surprised to find that there wasn't a difference in the light output when the O-Rings go on. Just search amazon for "keyboard o rings". I ended up buying these.
I'd like to do 5 gallon batches. I don't think the quantity from the Mr Beer keg is worth it.
How's this look? Total is around $80.
Fermentation bucket
Bung/airlock
Stock pot
Autosiphon
Star San or Idophor (What's the difference?)
Is there any advantage to having a carboy as well? How long would I leave the beer in the fermentation bucket?
So if I wanted to do sours, I'd basically have to get 2 of everything?
Edit - actually, wouldn't this kit be about the same, but with an extra bucket but no stock pot?
Edit 2 - another pot, 36qt is good price, leaving this here so I can find it again.
I do have some old rubber tubing on the 'out' end of the chiller, so maybe I'll clamp some of this on it to avoid a funky rubber taste.
I'm fairly certain my water is chlorine free, but wouldn't boiling remove the chlorine?
Thanks!
Welcome to the stealth club.
I kinda wish I had gone with blue switches instead. Browns don't seem to offer enough feedback.
If you want to make it "stealthy"/quieter, grab a set of these and put them on the keycaps.
I built one and it was pretty easy and not very expensive considering. Warning: The following instructions are probably dangerous. This is what I did, and it's to demonstrate how simple it was to make.
It's maybe two hundred bucks and when combined with an inkbird it makes biab a breeze.
Here are the O-Rings that I bought along side the WASD keyboard ones.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The WASD Keyboard brand ones are defiantly a lot softer and dampen a little better than the generic brands. :)
Buy a cheap HDMI switch if you want to switch between HDMI sources. It is entirely standalone and doesn't require a RPi or anything else.
You'll need something like this Hauppauge box plugged into your PC and just have a HDMI switch before it. They claim Linux drivers exist for it but you'll have to investigate how easy it is to get it running on a RPi.
There are cheap standalone HDMI encoders available such as this HDMI over IP transmitter or this Android settop box but they all require some work to get running properly. You're going to have to write significant amounts of code to get it all hooked up properly.
If you do want to capture a HDMI stream then you'll need to strip off HDCP first and then split the connection so one goes to your TV and one goes to the HDMI encoder box. You don't want to do encode then decode because it is lossy encoding and the latency will drive you nuts if trying to play on your PS4. The Hauppauge box claims it has a zero latency passthrough connection so you don't need to split it for that.
I believe these are ones most people buy. Note that o-rings will make the bottoming out a bit more like rubber domes, kind of squishy, but you will have less key travel distance, and it will be easier to actuate the switch a second time (i.e. you don't have to lift your fingers as high to get the switch to register again).
I mean that's a totally fine train of thought. I just recommended them because I felt my browns were way too loud. Once I got my o rings, the sound got dampened significantly, so I thought the 8 dollars I spent on the O rings was justified.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Cheap o-rings in Europe / Germany?
All prices I found through google are around 14-17 € or need some kind of mass buy.
I wouldn't mind the price but I don't even know if I even like them or the exact size I want.
I know of the cheap US ones but I can't really order from US Amazon and may have to pay shipping and Zoll anyway
I have a qpad mk 80 with reds by the way.
I'd avoid using it until you have silicone. Vinyl isn't rated for that temp. I have the Mash and Boil, only recirculated twice. Otherwise, the beer I produce on it, with a random stir here or there in the mash is perfectly fine. Good prices on tubing can be found on Amazon.
If you do make a spunding valve I recommend this pressure relief valve. I bought a pre-built spunding valve off of homebrewing.org and the pressure relief valve it came with sucked. I saw this on brulosophy I believe and swapped it out. My current fermentation is the first I've used the new one, but so far it is MUCH better.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FXAA0BQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You only need about an inch of it, but I find all kinds of fun uses for the extra.
This seems like a good idea: https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466286871&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=water+tank+float+valve
I have/had the maker select. I fought it about ever other print I did on it until it finally became more expensive to troubleshoot than buy a new printer. Thats when I got the ender 3. I honestly think the ender 3 prints way better than the maker select ever did for me. Dont get me wrong the maker select was a good printer when it printed but I think the ender 3 outperforms it.
Yes the whole myth around resin being so expensive I think stems from a couple years ago when it was waaayyy more expensive and the only players in the game were selling $3000 printers. It has come way down and just realize every single time someone say that it is 10x more than FDM they are either misinformed, lying, or an idiot lol. I think the fact that you have to but it $60-$150 at a time instead of $17 (what a cheap roll of filament costs) really confuses some people. I have done the calculations though since I print for commissions and my resin volume per mini is usually between 4ml to 7ml. Resin can be bought all day for $0.08 per ml. I love it when people try to argue with me on it though :)
[Here are the connectors I bought](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQYJ9T6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) you probably could find a smaller pack but this is the size you need. The connecter on the hotend side is a different size, but I didnt have any problems with that one so I only replaced the one on the extruder.
I have the BWU as well and used these. They worked fine and slightly mute the sound of them hitting the board when you push a key in. It wont make then silent, but it helps and is a cheap purchase.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You need a bulkhead fitting, 1/2" ball valve, 1/2" ID hose barb, (optional) some sort of 1/2" FPT street elbow or other intake.
You can get the whole assembly for $20.89 on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/HomeBrewStuff-Stainless-Weldless-Home-Brew/dp/B00420WMUU/). If you buy it piecemeal, I recommend the True Weldless bulkhead fitting at brewhardware.com.
What you want is a Bulkhead Fitting. It makes a hole on a flat surface and allows you to attach PVC parts to it. I would say you add this right under the lip of the top pond and put ~1' length of PVC pipe on it. The water will fill to the pipe then drain out into the pond below. The only real consideration is the strength of the plastic and the length of the pipe. You wouldn't want to crack the pond.
I have a blues keyboard. I ended up getting these o-rings to place underneath the keys which ended up cutting the sound of the audio in like half. The loudest part of blues is when you bottom out and the key hits the bottom of the keyboard. O-rings pretty much dampen that, which makes it much quieter. You can also put O-rings on browns etc.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00420WMUU/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-10-Gal-Orange-Water-Cooler-FG1610HDORAN/202260809
http://www.northernbrewer.com/universal-false-bottom
exactly what I have, works perfectly
If you type forcefully then most of the noise is from the former, You can get o-rings for your blackwidow, without needing a new keyboard! If you aren't set on getting a new keyboard try it first, razer even sells a (Overpriced) o ring kit. Or you could get this If you get the secound you will also need a keycap puller, which the razer kit includes. It will still be cheaper, esp if you have amazon prime.
The only reason you would need a new keyboard is if the click it makes before it hits the bottom is too loud, or you want something nicer then a razer.
the answer is all about the type of tubing and metal. I cant give advice on metals but i did have a very similar problem with my vape getting too hot for its plastic tubing. I fixed it by getting high grade silicon tubing, which you can get on amazon for like $1/ft.
http://www.amazon.com/White-SiliconeTubing-ID-Wall-Length/dp/B003TJ9YQU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1342768208&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=high+temp+silicon+tubing
the general rule of thumb is glass, stone, or wood IMO. (you can also use a hallowed out coconut if you can engineer that, just an idea) or even better, a glass soda bottle (preferably w/o lead)
The $40 is worth it to get a good silicone o-ring, washer, and SS parts, in my opinion. I got this one and I'm happy with it. I just don't think you'll save enough to make up for having inferior stuff.
Get these, $2.08 for a pack of 100. They work great on my wife's DS4:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8
I have a corsair k70 and its been great. If they are too loud you can put these under the keys.
http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=2NH93HWQXLFID&amp;coliid=I1HXCMYO97FC78&amp;psc=1
Can’t help you with programming but you could eliminate the pump and use gravity feed and a valve like this
https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-Solenoid-Connect-normally-Closed/dp/B016MP1HX0/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_3/140-4689437-7402416?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B016MP1HX0&amp;pd_rd_r=7e732eb6-69bd-4334-8901-5ebb49bc7e82&amp;pd_rd_w=UV8Al&amp;pd_rd_wg=BJTUS&amp;pf_rd_p=0bda97b1-9615-4960-b748-b906a3521083&amp;pf_rd_r=0FX3BC956PNFJ3R82N43&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=0FX3BC956PNFJ3R82N43
You can look into stainless. Can't go wrong with 304 stainless. Also since this is all pre-boil sanitation is that big of a concern. Mine was stainless. Paid a little more but for the piece of mind it is nice.
I believe this is the one I got.
HomeBrewStuff 1/2" Stainless Steel Valve Weldless Bulkhead For Home Brew Kettle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00420WMUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_7yz6wbRPCZK53
Great. I was going to add a no weld ball valve to it as well.
edit: this one actually: http://www.amazon.com/Weldless-Bulkhead-Stainless-Steel-valve/dp/B00420WMUU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=22WSWWQDSQRRM&amp;coliid=I193MJG09G8FHZ
Yeah, I suppose I read that incorrectly. I thought he was advocating for these which are popularly referenced and ones that I use. I guess in my mind I was thinking cumulative not individual.
You're may be paying many times more sourcing "locally" if you can't wait until chinese new year is over next month. On amazon anything that is 'prime' should be warehoused stateside
Search for
water solenoid
exampleCompatible diameter tube for above example
and any
relay board
example.Moisture sensors are literality just wires shoved into the soil. But beware of electrolyses degrading the metal, you can used galvanized nails or even pencil lead (carbon rods) instead
You shouldn't need a pump unless using a reservoir, but just in case
12V water pump
example--note this has a bigger diameter hose connector you may be able to just shove a 1/4" inside and glue around for seal but look around at the different search results for matching hose diameters all around or possible legit adaptorsAnd don't forget the 12V power adaptor capable of powerint all that. ~2+A should be fine example
We used a weldless valve for the boil kettle: 1/2" Stainless Steel Valve Weldless Buldhead and we used this video to make the counter flow chiller.
I did ice baths for a full year prior to making all this equipment. While I made great beer, I was tired of adding those extra hours to my brew day so I built this chiller. It's seriously amazing. I was able to empty 6 gallons of beer into my carboy and have it cooled to pitching temperature in about 10-15 minutes.
(And sorry for some of the potato quality or motion blur photos. I'm not a professional!)
I picked up a WinWare aluminum boiling pot for $40 last year, drilled a hole in it (I think that the bit was $20) and installed a $20 valve. Since purchasing it, I've used the bit for two valves, a thermometer, and two sightglass installs.
Edit: The pot
The Bit
The valve
Holiday Deal Valve Alternative
You might be able to find better deals on Cyber Monday, though.
All you need is a drill gun and dish soap (the soap is a nice lubricant so you don't wear the bit down quickly)
I went brown to not completely drive my family crazy. Unfortunately, I've been toting it between home and work, and now I want to buy another for the office. THAT one will have blues :D
If you're looking to add o-rings, someone tipped me off to these $2 beauties on amazon and they're working wonderfully.
https://www.orbitonline.com/site_files/manuals/200%20Series%20valves%20chart.pdf
The minimum pressure for this valve is 15 psi. I am running my drip irrigation out of my rain barrel, with a pond pump. It doesn't make enough pressure to actuate the pilot in this valve.
I have tried the following valves, that only require 3 psi and they work. I wish there was better option that didn't require a minimum presure.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016MP1HX0
[modification] Perfect $2 O-Rings for reduced travel/sound (100 pk)
http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1QT0BXXR3WW3FT9HNMF9
A post from yesterday
Heres an item for 18 cents (including free prime shipping)
Cheap!
If you want to save money this is the way to go
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
> Korean diaphragm airpumps
Like This?. Have you used this pump? How many do you think I need for my system? Looks like regen blowers pull way too much current.
This is a pretty common item. You will have an easier time finding an adjustable pressure relief valve than a set 3 psi, but even that isn't too uncommon.
I found this one on Amazon
It is possible to capture video from an iPhone or Android using a video capture device, and something like an MHL to HDMI adapter.
The exact versions you use will depend on what you want to spend, the devices you want to use them on (especially considering the compatibility of your mobile device). Obviously this means some hardware cost, but it might be worth considering in the future if you wanted to branch into mobile games.
Get these. It doesn't completely silence the keyboard, but it keeps the keys from bottoming out and making the louder 'clank' noise. It also reduces travel distance of the keys, making it slightly easier to type.
Some are reporting that these o-rings (15 x 1 x 17mm) fit the kayfun body:
http://www.fasttech.com/p/1208503
I bought the 008 Buna-N Orings for my Russian 91% chimney top, it seems to work ok...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Maybe this is cheap enough wfor you?
Oh, and with free shipping included, this one
these have a 0.15 minimum :P
unforetunetely the cheapest item with free shiping is this
ASSASSIN
There are some available on Amazon for very cheap. From what I've read they're slightly stiffer than their WASD cousins. I'm unfamiliar with Amazon's shipping policies, but I imagine their logistics infrastructure is faster than someone like WASD.
Also, the color of the o-ring won't have any effect on backlighting. The two colors that are primarily available (red and blue from WASD) are of differing thicknesses.
I use these and they're pretty cheap.
Though they're on the stiffer side, they worked well on every switch I've used them on: clears, greens, blues, and reds.
EDIT: Accidentally switched the link and link title. hurrdurr
You could use a pretty standard mechanical float valve to refill water reservoirs. Something along these lines
This is just a little more and a lot better suited.
thanks for the help. I found these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) but they dont ship to my country (Norway) would there be a way to get them any closer?
Honestly, your title needs to be more specific. If you're asking how to get the footage from the PS3 onto a computer, most people use (and I myself do the same) a PVR of some kind.
Most people I know use some form of a Hauppauge HD PVR, the one linked is a "specific" gaming one.
The PS3 has a cable to the PVR and from there it has 2 cables. One to the TV and one to the computer. Think of it as a crossroads which splits the image and sounds into 2 directions.
Then the inbuilt software records it onto your computer and you can chuck it into some video editing software and you're done.
This is what I ended up using and seems to be working well:
2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m4N2AbMH6HZM7
I ordered like.... a hundred for 11 bucks off amazon.
EDIT: Sorry, correction, it's like a dollar fifty for a hundred
Link
A quick google: https://www.amazon.com/White-Silicone-Rubber-Tubing-Grade/dp/B003TJ9YQU
I have read somewhere else on this board that, as long as it is food grade, it is safe to use.
You'll have to check yourself if this tube seals with your glass. I don't have a DBV, so I can't check it for you.
My plumbing in the cooler sits pretty flush with the inner wall. Basically the only thing exposed on the inner wall is the nut.
Ok I guess I paid more than $3, these show as $8 right now: http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=pd_sim_pc_1
But if you search for "o-ring" on Amazon there are quite a few results that are cheaper, in varying sizes.
Printed couplings are prone to slipping which means the Z axis doesn't rise(or lower) the correct amount. You're better off buying a real coupling for a few dollars.
Then why aren't you just using a bulkhead fitting? Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Standard-Threaded-Bulkhead/dp/B0002Z7U1K/ref=lp_700755011_1_6?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1565222743&amp;sr=1-6
with a threaded plug should be reasonably waterproof.
I use these http://amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE though I know that you can get the nice coloured ones from WASD.
That's actually a Bayou Classic, pretty cheap, nothing special.
Ball valve:
http://www.amazon.com/Weldless-Bulkhead-Stainless-Steel-valve/dp/B00420WMUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1330884675&amp;sr=8-1
Themometer:
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/weld-b-gone-thermothingy-2.html
with:
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/1-4-npt-brewmometer-bi-metal-thermometer-w-adjustable-face-weldless.html
sight:
http://www.brewhardware.com/wlsightglass/49-weldless-sight-glass-kit
The key was 3-in-1 oil with a stepped drill bit.
I tried a sample of the o-rings from WASD and found the 40a rubber was too soft for my liking. If I bottomed out, they felt mushy. Check these out, slightly harder and only $2, compared to $15.
For $2, I used these on my browns. Probably took about 20 minutes to put them on. Definitely takes the edge off the noises from bottoming out.
Slime? I assume you mean slim...
For anyone interested, this is the actual one I was looking at and one of the reviewers said it would work. Measurements seem to match closely to the ones on wasd.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
O-Rings
I can only see flair in comments as I am on mobile. I was going to say you can pickup a new whip from vapexhal. I found this one on amazon that may also be worth checking out.
https://www.amazon.com/White-Silicone-Rubber-Tubing-Grade/dp/B003TJ9YQU
It sounds like it’s the beverage line. I’ve been skeptical of any pvc tubing that’s not from a reputable manufacturer (like Bevlex 200 by Kuriyama) after purchasing this product which was certainly expediting oxidation—in the lines, and also in the keg. I had what I think is a similar issue to yours when I had carbonated water through the same beverage tubing I linked.
Maybe someone has some further insight. I might try purchasing some Bevlex 200 and try again, or just switch to a different non-PVC high quality tubing.
It's because of how soft they are. The reds specifically are extremely spongy. I would recommend getting WASD's Sample and testing them out. I tried them and they were way to soft. I ended up getting these ones from Amazon. They are much more dense, so they don't mask sounds as well, but they are hard enough to not have any mushy feeling if you bottom out.
I bought these for my QuickFire Rapid (black), removes the "mushy" feeling as some describe it. Feels really good and solid. Not sure about shipping to Canada, but these o-rings are very common and there are tons of reviews of users installing them on heir MechKBs.
Without changing the feeling of the key stroke? You would probably need something with a low shore rating. Maybe somewhere in the 20A range. I suggest that you just use something with a relatively higher rating and is readily available like this one I listed below, you'll get used to it pretty quickly. You can also find some in the 40A range but they tend to be more expensive for some reason.
http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=pd_sim_pc_5?t=slickdeals&amp;tag=slickdeals&amp;ascsubtag=BTRsovXOEeK0Lc5lAEKLqQje75_6CQe3_0_0_0
you can get o-rings for like $2 man they're just rubber.
For example, I use these on my Ducky Gold http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XWXCE
Something like that ^^
Put an order in for the brown version yesterday along with some o-rings. Since the browns looked like they were going fast, I didn't have enough time to get in-depth on my search for o-rings and grabbed these to throw on the same order.
008 Buna-N O-Ring, 50A Durometer, Round, Black, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Width (Pack of 125)
Something like this:
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71eIBr+ziPL._SL256_.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I
[This is the cheapest I can find (prime shipping)] (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B007A5XM3K/ref=nosim/krisssoccersi-20/), I would like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/BT00DC6QU4/gcrnsts?ie=UTF8&amp;ref_=reg_hu-rd_add_1_dp).
This is basically what I'm referring to.
You know, like this.
If you're going to try this make sure to use food grade silicon tubing like this one: http://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Grade-Silicone-Tubing/dp/B00FXAA0BQ
https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Grade-Silicone-Tubing/dp/B00FXAA0BQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527258958&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=high+temp+silicone+tubing+food+grade
something like this is what it use.
What is you plan for a mash tun? I went with a 10g Home Depot cooler and something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Weldless-Stainless-Bulkhead-Nipple/dp/B00JHMRH2Q
This is the cooler: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-40-qt-Orange-Water-Cooler-FG1610HDORAN/202260809
You’ll also need a screen or false bottom. I think the screen is a ver economical option https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Bazooka-Screen-Fitting/dp/B003ISY2DC
Apologies everyone, it is 1.5 ft!
This is what I'm using for line:
ATP Vinyl-Flex PVC Food Grade Plastic Tubing, Clear, 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD, 100 feet Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_k8sXCbX7X23X0
It's been kegged for about a 3 and a half weeks, for the first three days I had it at about 35psi and shook the keg every once in awhile.
Any thoughts?
Also, I used
https://www.kegerators.com/beer-line-calculator/&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjN6efthYziAhVNVK0KHS3IA3YQFjAAegQIBBAB&amp;usg=AOvVaw1jEPO-k0HSm64SfkmIaLPF&amp;cshid=1557322369643
to calculate the length
I used these:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWLR8/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_p4
Nice and cheap, did the job just as well as the .4mm ones from Max Keyboard I'd previously tried. There might be a minor difference in travel limitations for the key -- but we're talking a tenth of a mm at most, and if you aren't bottoming out every key press you won't even notice that. The difference being that these are ever so slightly smaller than the .4mm's.
I'm curious as well. I recently got these for my Nighthawk X7 : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/
Only lasted a few hours before I was like "fuck this" and took them out.
I'd say it's such a minute difference between them, I opted to buy some small rubber rings instead of branded "o-rings". You can check them out here! They work fine for me!
I use mine (Gateron Reds) as a travel board. These should arrive today so people don't get annoyed by the clack. My logic is that it's worth trying out for $2.
I ferment in 10 gallon cornies and I just built myself a spunding valve to use as a test. Wasn't that hard the main bit is the valve itself, which I got off Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GDY3CU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FYI58S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQUTBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And then some fiddly bits to go from the Tee to the QD for the keg.
OP, I found out what you were looking for is called a spunding valve. It's essentially used to brew beer under a fixed pressure. I found this on amazon , how you'd fix that to a lid is beyond me tho.
&#x200B;
Edit : Also to note: mason jars cannot hold pressure anyhow, you'd have to bottle your kombucha first and fix on the valve to the bottle cap/cork and set it fro like 30-40 psi beyond which the bottle will explode anyway.
Unless its a commercial air pump, which you dont need for 10 gallons it should be whisper quiet. Look into the Eco whisper series, they come in various sizes, all of which are quiet until you get to the commercial level. IF you feel you need heavier air output from a commercial size BUT you also need it quiet id go with https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Dual-Diaphragm-Pump/dp/B008UF9XLY
Its what I use indoors for DWC 60 gallons across 4 reservoirs and it does fine.
TLDR; Your pump can be small enough that you shouldnt even hardly hear it running if at all
Eek, those vinyl hoses on the HLT and mash tun!
Edit: This is worth the 16 bucks.
If it's a 1 gallon batch get the mini siphon:
https://www.amazon.com/Fermtech-Mini-Auto-Siphon-3-8-inch/dp/B0064ODL1G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498080342&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=brew+siphon
if its 3-6 gallons get the big one:
https://www.amazon.com/Regular-Auto-Siphon-feet-Tubing/dp/B00AYHS7ZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498080342&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=brew+siphon
They all work fine.
I'm guessing something like this would constitute a 'bad idea':
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Diaphragm-Priming-Pressure-Adjustable/dp/B074MZYS37/ref=zg_bs_1265115011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VXF76MA1K4BF6S10CF8S
Also yes, using cylindrical fiber filters.
You can get those same WASD ones direct from Amazon in either Red .2mm or Blue .4mm which at least saves you on shipping if you have Prime.
You can also get more generic, plain o-rings on Amazon in slightly different hardness. Both of these should work just as well for a considerably lower price. I found them via mech related links from Massdrop and here, but have tried neither myself.
I put these on my QFR blues. Now, they don't bottom out and just do the clicky sound. Much more consistent sounding since every keypress sounds the same.
I assume you'll get similar results with the wasd ones. I also bought the sampler pack from wasd but couldn't decide on which ones I wanted, so I ended up with the amazon ones.
I ordered this one about a year ago and have used it probably about 20 times since then. I love this pot and plan on installing a weld-less ball valve on it this weekend. Like what kds1398 said, the main downside is the size if you don't have a valve because once you get 7.5 gallons of wort in it she can get heavy. The only other really minor negative I can think of is that a lot of gunk and stuff gets caught and hidden under the little lip near the top, you just have to be careful when cleaning it but it's really no big deal. I would definitely buy this pot again.
I had no idea O-rings were basically just industry specific rubber rings you don't have to buy at $18 from a keyboard shop.(makes sense when you think about it)
Mind blown, bought 200 of these for $4.
Thanks!