Reddit mentions: The best pool & spa replacement parts

Impeller and diffuser look good, definitely replace the Seals while you have it open. The back plate/Seal Plate however, if you look at the bottom left part where the motor bolt connects to the plate it looks like it starting to crack. You can try to re-use that plate and hope the brass insert doesn't pop out, but in the long run it would be best to replace.

Edit: A little trick of the trade when installing the pump seal/PS-1000
Good Luck!

First off why do you want to move the pump outside? It may be a slight inconvenience to have it on the patio but it will increase the life of the pump significantly. But since you do want to move it you can get a plastic pump cover something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CR6SIWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZbfGDbX2HJA7N depending on where exactly in Florida you are there’s probably a locally made product for cheaper. I know I carry one made in Palm Bay and it’s only $25. As far as the zone valves being in the sunlight a lot of valves are UV stabilized but you could also bury them in the ground and put them in a valve box. It looks like you have a flotec or an everbilt pump, can’t tell from the picture but they are both designed to handle the iron and sprinkler water just fine. The Flotec is a much better pump in my opinion and if you’re getting a new one I recommend looking into them.

Can't go wrong with the inteliflo VSF. It's expensive but parts will be available forever and it's the most proven pump. Typically you have to buy it at a pool store.

Next best option would be the superflo VS. Much smaller pump, still very capable. If you pool is just a 20x40 without water features or hot tub the superflo would be fine. Inteliflo gives you many more options with scheduling (which you may or may not care about).

Get some 2" high temp unions (IF you do inteliflo) https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Hi-Temp-Union-Whisperflo-Intelliflo/dp/B00AKMV4K8 like these so your pump can be easily serviced in the future.

I had a friend who use rubber plugs that are used for all sorts of things they had a wing nut on the top that you could tighten down and it would widen the plug (too much and you can break shit though) they were amazing. You didn't have to worry about them falling out during vigorous shaking and made an excellent seal. He said they were cheap too If I can find them I'll post it.

I think it's the best bong opening seal solution, the winter freeze plug for pools. It's angled and come in different sizes. https://www.amazon.com/WINTERIZING-EXPANSION-FREEZE-PLUG-PIPE/dp/B00404O5RG

I was curious about your control system so I Googled it and came across this on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/IAQUALINK-2-0-UPGRADE-SYSTEMS-IQ20-RS/dp/B00NVLM4LS

Expensive but the description says it improves reliability, signal, and compatibility. Reading the reviews looks like it might be a good option.

EDIT: Should not have damaged anything by running without DE.
Annually for DE Filters you should pull them out and wash the grids
things in degreaser to improve efficiency.

Example:
https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-Pro-Grid-Micro-Filter-Replacement/dp/B002PN88YA


You should have a big valve to back flush.

Valve in one position for normal running.
Turn Pump Off
Manually move valve to "back flush" position until discharge is clear.
Turn Pump Off
Move Valve back to normal position.

MIX DE into a slurry, slowly pour a little at time into the filter basket.

POST UP PHOTO's of pool.

We all learned this some how, so nothing to be embarrassed about.

You will need at least 1.5 times the surface area of your pool in panels on your roof. Expect to upgrade the pump, and as another poster stated, You must install an automated valve that will only send water to the collector when the roof temp is greater than the water. Remember, a solar collector is a heat exchanger and works both ways. My advice is to pay to have it professionally installed. The heat is free after the initial install. It WILL pay for itself, unlike gas/electric that turn a commodity into heat.

http://www.amazon.com/Hayward-GLC-2P-A-Heating-Control-Actuator/dp/B0051BU440/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395333265&sr=8-2&keywords=hayward+solar+controller

That is what I recommend for a control unit if you are going to do this DIY

Confirming the steam on the metal parts. I used this one from Amazon for $25. Worked fantastic. Didn't take long. Blast with steam, wipe away excess white stuff with paper towels.

I believe you can use this
http://www.amazon.com/Hayward-SP0710XALL-Pro-Series-Vari-Flo-Side-Mount/dp/B002EL3Z4Q

its a little bit of work but will save you the filter. If I'm thinking of the right multiport, the one you have gave you the handle assy and two bulkhead fittings. The rest was really up to the installer - it wasn't particular to the filter. The one i mentioned a second ago allows you to use either the existing or new bulkhead fittings, you'll just need to get a few male adapters and some plugs to match everything else up

Edit: also, why does this need to be replaced? If you need the gasket, its a little bit smaller than the spx710d but you can get it. Just needs a little bit of looking for

I used two Intermatic PE24VA Valve Actuators. Thinking adding third one to pool floor cleaner line so I can wide open it during cleaning cycles.

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Sure I can share my nodered flows.

If it drains while running install this in the valve with the actuator that says JVA-24 on the white/gray logo. All you need is a big Phillips screwdriver and some lube for the orings.

If it drains while off, do the same to the valve under the actuator that is all black as well. These are the two main points that separate pool pipes from spa pipes.

If the spa drains while the pump is off in pool mode, install this in the clear valve at the bottom right of your pic.

That would be fabulous, because an OEM is running upwards of $750 with a 3 year warranty right now. What gives me pause is this: https://www.amazon.com/BLUE-WORKS-T-15-Cell-Compatible-Pro-Rated/dp/B07MZ1P4HH/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=t-15+cell&qid=1565241217&s=gateway&sr=8-3

"Our BLT cell is compatible with .... 4.2 or newer Aqua Logic systems." I think my mainboard firmware is at 2.6x. Unless it is referencing something else?

That's actually a broken "vac lock" used for vacuum ports on the side of pools (Hayward W400BWHP White Free Rotation Vacuum Lock Safety Wall Fitting Replacement for Hayward Navigator Pool Cleaners https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VU8O5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CVwiDb6N4GWWY).

Its just threaded into the base of the skimmer. It really has no place being in there. My best guess is that the previous owner put it in there to try and stop the hose from popping out when the pump shut off

Skimmer basket support ring. Hayward part number SXP1082D

These fit inside 1 1/2" pvc and are unthreaded. https://www.amazon.com/ATIE-PoolSupplyTown-Eyeball-Hydrostream-Insider/dp/B01LXPUL93?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_14 There are many options to fix this problem. But this is the kind of fitting you are looking for. I would say you may need to check your filter media first though.

Sight glass for backwash lines.

https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-SP1072S-2-Inch-Line-Backwash/dp/B0032GB6B6

There's an 1.5" version on there as well.