Reddit mentions: The best power drill bit extensions

I'm curious about the pricing too (I also saw it was $120 when you commented). I looked up the cost of the things listed.

• Gerber Dime green/black - $16.02 new on Amazon
  
• Zebra F-701 pen - $7.20 new on Amazon
  
• NarwhalCo pens set of 2 - $11.95 new on their site
  
• 2.5" ratchet bit extension - about $4~ new on Amazon (counting out the other bits included in that listing)
  
• ARES 1/4" micro bit ratchet & mini bits - $14.42 new on Amazon
  
• Small length of black Gorilla tape - less than $1 worth of a full 1-pack price new on Amazon
  
• Glasses/screen cleaning cloth - comparable to $1.50 new on Amazon from a 6-pack
  
• Length of FireCord - less than $1 worth of a full 1 roll price new on Amazon
  
• Bic Mini lighter - about $1.39 new on Amazon from a 5-pack
  
• Sim card removal tool - about $0.50 new on Amazon from a 10-pack
  
• Kingston 32gb microSD card & portable USB reader - $20.94 new on Amazon
  
• CountyComm "Industrial Strength Survival Food Grade Tin" large topo design - $3.45 new on their site
  
  In total that's about $83.37 USD all new prices. Most include free shipping if purchased from Amazon. I did not include possible cost of that leather holster because the post currently does not say the leather holster is included or not.

I removed the recoil for the pull start. It was 4 small bolts. If you've ever had to fix the pull rope then you've done it before.

When you get that off, you'll see that there's a nut that the recoil was turning. Find a deep well socket that fits that nut. Then you'll need something like this so that you can put the socket on the drill.

https://www.amazon.com/SE-7503SD-Power-Extension-Bit/dp/B0002TW1D8/ref=sr_1_2?adgrpid=59148646213&gclid=CjwKCAjw44jrBRAHEiwAZ9igKAT3jMtbld0tEIJ37YkqehiUYYbUsiPZDf9AmzgEnJg3aWuRCMzMlBoCvygQAvD_BwE&hvadid=295656596052&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9016188&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=4724770542817919199&hvtargid=kwd-383813721561&hydadcr=20342_9690425&keywords=drill+attachment+for+sockets&qid=1566766883&s=gateway&sr=8-2

After that you just push the primer a few times and then use the drill to turn the motor clockwise until it starts. Be ready to let go of the drill. It might want to spin out of your hand.

https://youtu.be/SRd6A8jkZgA

I had good luck with the greenlee flexible extended augurs. They make an extension too, looks well rated on Amazon.

Greenlee 921 Quick Change Extension Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003649AQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PxL0Bb1R1Z8MY

I normally do new construction, but in old construction its almost always easier to drill from inside the wall down. I use this to hold a 1/4" drive paddle bit. I try to fish the wire with the bit, but if it doesn't work, glow rods are amazing.

Do you have an adequate compressor already? If so, the pneumatic is the way to go for a number of reasons. Cheaper, way more powerful, way simpler machines (less to break).

But if you want your long-term situation to be cordless electric for both, I'd buy the IW wrench you want now, and use a 1/4" adapter to use the same tool as a driver until you can pick up a dedicated tool.

And the Kobalt stuff is intriguing, but if it were me, I'd stick with a more proven brand until the new Kobalt line gets some real-world feedback. And it's pretty expensive. I priced out bare-tool 1/2" wrench, 1/4" driver (with small battery--the kit you linked) and 2 4 aHr batteries and the total package was the same for Milwaukee and Kobalt. And at that deal, I take Milwaukee every time. (One difference, I guess, is that the Milwaukee driver you'd get is brushed, not brushless, but that's not a huge deal, IMO.)

i'll just throw in my anecdotal experience with ryobi.

i have bought 2 ryobi products in my life, their corded jigsaw and 4-stroke trimmer. both are the 2 worst tools i have ever bought... even below harbor freight quality. i ended up throwing them away because i hated them so much. replaced with dewalt jigsaw and stihl trimmer.

my buddy bought a ridgid cordless drill when he wanted me to help mount a TV on his wall, and honestly it felt pretty good. i was impressed with the warranty.

i use my 1/2" impact (dewalt dc820) on lugnuts and whenever i can. sometimes you don't have the room to get a bigger wrench in there so most of the time i'm using a breaker bar + hand tools.

i'm not sure if you can wait, but the 2 biggest sales for tools are black friday (after thanksgiving) and father's day, coming up next month. might be worth waiting for. home depot, lowe's, amazon will all have some sort of deal on an impact.

keep in mind you can adapt a 1/4" hex to a 1/2" square and vice versa.

You should be able to find a hone the correct size. We have several in the shop that we use to debar & clean seat tubes on repairs and all the bikes we build up.

Something like this

Use the hone on a drill with an extender (make sure it has a chuck) similar to this

Carry a folding knife with it and you have the best of all worlds. As someone else mentioned, just remove the adjustment screw to reveal a 1/4" bit driver. It is deep however, so a short bit extender makes it a lot easier to use.

https://www.amazon.com/IIT-64510-Magnetic-Extensions-3-Piece/dp/B004V3TQP2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=bit%2Bextension&qid=1565356902&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

Actually this is cheaper https://www.amazon.com/HOEN-Tamper-Security-Standard-Storage/dp/B07CKTVZHX

I've had. 100+ piece bit set for about 15 years. It was great in college where they thought an unique safety screw would keep us out.

Yep. I've got a square drive with a hex chuck adapter. Best of both worlds.

THIS plus this. These things were a lifesaver bolting together a massive swing set / playhouse combo for the grandkids last Christmas.

If you have a drill, a grinder, a vice/clamp, and something like this you might be able to sharpen the socket yourself. This might be a terrible idea, just sharing some brain rain.

Edit: Tape between the socket and square adapter could be used to make socket more stable for grinding.

That is a 'drive socket' for a 4mm hex bit. The 'bit' is actually the hex. This is made so people with a socket wrench can use (in this case) 4mm metric allen fasteners.

To use this sort of bit with a drill, you need a socket adapter for a drill. Here is a set with the most common socket sizes. You are possibly better off getting a regular 6mm bit set and a bit holder.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Socket-Extension-Holder-Connector/dp/B07L3HCHXP

Are you talking about something like this?

Want to see something cool? Not Harbor Freight, but I am drooling over these:

https://www.amazon.com/Industro-IDS406-Drive-Socket-Extension/dp/B001JTWSDS

it came with this drill chuck https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20754A-Change-Convert-Impact/dp/B0051AE85W but Both Milwaukee and Dewalt have their own version. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2298-2-Inch-Square-Adaptor/dp/B001BZ9YZU/ https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-03-4410-Shockwave-2-Inch-Adapter/dp/B002KKBBR4

How about the shorties in this set? https://www.amazon.com/Dophee-Socket-Adapter-Impact-Shank/dp/B01A9XWARS

This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002TW1D8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_469_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X2J5087G07862V1EEK8N


Plus whatever socket wrench you need...

I used this

http://www.amazon.com/Speedbor-88601-Drill-Bit-Extensions/dp/B00004YO9X

Fit many size bits since you can tighten it down with.

for the rear, lift under the differential (use a hockey puck between the jack and diff cover if your jack doesn't have a pad) and put a jack stand on each side of the car on the frame just in front of where the LCA meets the chassis.

Then lower the jack under the axle which will let you push down the axle so that the springs just fall out.

don't lift the car at the LCA's. They don't seem like they are designed to bear that much pressure on that chassis joint but I could be wrong.

Camber plates are not really needed until you hit about a 2" front drop.

Here's a short list of the most common tools I carry when working on someone's car

Torque wrench

Deep sockets that can take a beating from an impact gun

Extensions (pro tip: if you ever have to change your starter, you will need about 15+ inches of extensions)

And this is the spring compressors I use

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMDPLM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have a 90 something piece craftsman set with most of the 1/4" and 3/8" drive bits and swivels/boxx wrenches, etc but usually use the 1/2 stanley sockets get grabbed first.

These are also super handy if you have a power drill (better yet, a power drill with impact setting)


Mustangs don't really have a whole lot of random tools needed to work on them so unless you have a foreign car, your tool set shouldn't ever really get too complicated.

It's typically when you get blindsided by some small little issue like a rusted or rounded off bolt that can turn a 2 hour job into a 2 day job. I worked on a guy's old fox body to help him replace a clutch and he had 2 stripped transmission bolts. I had these handy which were more or less the only way we could have gotten that done (besides calling a tow truck to take it to a transmission shop)

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-394001-Bolt-Grip/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406576108&sr=8-2&keywords=stripped+bolt+remover

Torpedo Level with a strong magnet
Extension Bit with quick change
Flexible drill bit extension
You might not use this every install or service but it comes in so clutch when you need it
Multi Screwdriver

A couple different size pipe wrenches. 6” and a 14” I recommend Rigid
Copper pipe cutters. You’ll need a Close quarters tubing cutter and a Large tubing cutter
Bulldog Snips



Edit: I’ll keep adding shit