Reddit mentions: The best power drill chucks

We found 102 Reddit comments discussing the best power drill chucks. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 32 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

9. HHIP 1/8~5/8 INCH JT3 Drill Chuck with Key (3700-0105)

    Features:
  • Capacity 1/8"-5/8" | Taper Mount JT3
  • Supplied with chuck key.
  • Accuracy and strong gripping force.
  • For portable, bench or floor type drill press.
HHIP 1/8~5/8 INCH JT3 Drill Chuck with Key (3700-0105)
Specs:
Height2.99999999694 Inches
Length5.99999999388 Inches
Weight0.000625 Pounds
Width2.99999999694 Inches
Size1/8-5/8" Capacity
Number of items1
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14. Bosch Torque Setting Attachment for IXO3

    Features:
  • Allows the user to optimise the power transfer to protect smaller screws
  • Improves speed and ease of screwdriving
  • Practical and easy to use
Bosch Torque Setting Attachment for IXO3
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height0.62000123873768 Inches
Length1.4725029421988 Inches
Weight0.1984160358 Pounds
Width0.69750139377674 Inches
Release dateApril 2012
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on power drill chucks

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where power drill chucks are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Number of comments: 2
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Top Reddit comments about Power Drill Chucks:

u/kiwiandapple · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Ow that's awesome!

Happy birthday already!


Great to hear that the RAM will be used! That really makes me happy.

I've seen your updated OP and my god, I get way too jealous, haha! This is going to be an amazing PC.

---

Watercooling


---

I have been looking at it in depth. You don't want to go with the 480mm in the top & 240mm in the bottom setup?
Here is a double 480mm build. Which does look pretty awesome as well.
Here is an other double 480mm build. This one is a bit messy, but just to show you how it will "look".

I would advise to buy the pretty expensive but probably very good & awesome looking window from MNPC tech.
I've send them a mail to question if a 480mm radiator will still fit in the bottom. I am very sure, but not entirely.
Just got a reply from MNPC tech and the 480mm radiator will fit no problem.

---

As for the tubing, you mentioned that you want hard tubes. Would you perhaps like the extra step to go with glass?
The benefit of glass is that it's very scratch resistant & it stays very clear. It's also not that hard to "cut" but you need to take your time for it. It will take a full weekend for sure to completely watercool it. Or I would say, 2 days at least.
Here is a video that explains on how to cut glass tubes. But it also shows you and explains why you would perhaps want glass tubes.
As you can see at 3:23 the soft tubing got pretty damn clouded. I don't know how long this took, but I guess about a year+ for sure. Probably 2 years, not entirely sure.

When you do go for glass, it's recommended to actually set up the whole loop in plastic first. To get the exact lengths, since you can cut plastic a lot easier than glass. Then you can use the plastic parts as templates for the glass. This will cost you an other $50 extra, but it's mostly going to cost you time.
I will put the plastic in the list.

It's actually great that you'll get the case soon, because then you can measure up a lot of things that I need to know. So I can suggest the right parts! So be ready with a measuring tape.

---

GTX1080s, cables & monitors


---


GTX1080s:


Yes, getting 2 GTX1080s is going to be "rough". They sell out in a snap, so I highly recommend to make an account at this website:
https://www.nowinstock.net/computers/videocards/nvidia/gtx1080
Then you can get an email / SMS text notification for when parts come back in stock, so that you can order it very quickly. It sells out in less than 2 hours the last time a card came into the store on Amazon.
You can buy any "founders edition" card from any brand really. But EVGA & Asus are 2 that keep the warranty even when you put waterblocks on them. So I prefer those 2 brands, maybe MSI, Gigabyte, Zotac & other brands started to also keep the warranty if you put their cards under water. But I am not sure about that.
I highly recommend to be very careful about all the screws when you put on the waterblock. Just in case you have to send the card back for RMA. You need to have all the screws & the cooler.

Cables:


You have to tell me which color combination you would prefer. They have a lot of options from CableMods.

  • Black / Blood Red
  • Black / Blood Red / White
  • Black / Blood Red / Silver
  • Black / White
  • Red / White
  • Red
  • Black
  • White

    Then I have a better idea on how to pick out the colors for the rest of the components.

    Monitors:


    Ow yes, the monitors! I assume that you probably would prefer to have the same monitors all around? That would of course shoot your budget into the roof. If you do go for the Acer 1440p, 165Hz gaming monitor of $759. The LG 4K monitor that I recommended got a very sleek design as well, but it of course is a bit different compared to the Acer 1440p monitor.

    Other parts:


    I hope that you didn't buy that CPU for $549.99? But anyway, you want to buy a cheap after-market air cooler as well. Since the i7-6700K does not come with a cooler on it's own.
    You need this to test the system, before you put it under water, you have to make sure it works on air. Including a stress test for about 2-12 hours. Whatever you prefer. I generally let it stress test for 1 night. Which is about 8-10 hours.

    I will post my list with all the parts later tonight. I hope, but I have to tell you, that you should not order it right away. We have to do some measurements first!

    Measurements:


    I will make a paint drawing to show you exactly what I need to know in terms of all the measurements.

    Tools:


    I've also looked at some tools that you need to build the PC and to watercool it. But I have to ask you if you have certain tools already.
    There may be some other products I am forgetting about right now. Excuse me if I do!

    Item|Price
    ----|:----
    Magnetic screwdriver set | $20
    Set of files | $15
    Handsaw | $13
    Electronic drill | $50
    1/8" to 5/8" adapter chunk | $20
    Velcro straps | $8
    Anti static wrist strap | $5

    Working on the whole list now (again).

    ---

    #####Again, if you have any questions. Feel free to ask!




u/Silound · 3 pointsr/turning

> The Lathe:

Sounds like you've got this well under control.

> The Tools:

There are very split camps on tools: replaceable carbide tips vs traditional tools. Personally I think both have a place, but I do feel it's best to start with traditional tools to learn the how and why tools work the way they do. My personal opinion is always to spend the real money on good tools. They don't have to be expensive, but the right tool of the right quality (sharp, of course) will make all the difference in the world. Every try to dig a post hole with a hand trowel? :)

Also don't feel bound by just one brand or type of tool...most of us have lots of tools!

You can go with carbide-tipped tools such as Easy Wood Tools, Simple Woodturning Tools, or other brands. You can make your own for a fraction of the cost to buy.

There are a few of good entry-level HSS sets out there for about $80, such as this frequently recommended set of Benjamin's Best. I also like Hurricane brand tools which I feel are excellent entry-level HSS tools for the money. Either of those would serve you well through the learning curve and a good ways into your turning career.

If you wanted to pick just two higher-end tools, I feel Crown's Pro PM are good for the price. I own several, they're nice, but the handles are a bit short for my knuckle-dragging frame! All you really need for the projects you listed is a skew chisel and a spindle gouge.

Lastly, you could buy some of the popular "buy it for life" tools like Thompson Lathe Tools or D-Way Tools. These are widely considered the upper end of turning tools with each tool running between $55-200 (handles sold separately). Many people who get serious about their hobby end up with these tools because the harder tool steels are more durable.


> The Bench Grinder:

The Rikon 80-805 is the most common good deal for a grinder. Occasionally some other Asia-import will pop up on the scene for a little while, but the Rikon is pretty predictable about going on sale. Also, it comes with two decent wheels to get you started; not all import grinders come with decent wheels.

Eventually you might want to invest in CBN wheels to replace the frangible wheels that come on the grinder, but that's probably down the road for you.

Lots of people use that grinder, I've not heard anything outright bad about it (although some people prefer one with more HP).

> Drill Press?

A cheap drill press will get you there just fine.

The most common alternative is to purchase a 4-jaw chuck, such as the Nova G3 (which requires the appropriate insert), and also a set of pen drilling jaws and a drill chuck for the tailstock. That lets you drill blanks entirely on the lathe (and with better accuracy than a drill press IMO).

The downside is that the 4-jaw chuck, insert, jaws, and drill chuck collectively will cost damn near $200, which is a lot more than a cheap drill press. The upside is that the chuck is exactly what you will need if you decide to get deeper into turning and want to try bowls, boxes, and other things. Many of us already owned or planned to own a chuck, so the only real cost addition was the pen drilling jaws and the drill chuck.

> Pen turning attachments


  • Mandrel savers are a separate purchase.

  • Be warned that barrel trimmers are not universal, they come in different sizes and some pen kits use a sleeve to up-size the trimmer to fit the larger tube.

  • You can use epoxy or CA glue, whichever you prefer to glue tubes. If using CA glue, make sure you buy a spray bottle of accelerator so that you can zap the ends to prevent a dripping mess!

  • Any general sandpaper from a home improvement store will work fine, don't need anything fancy or expensive. Quite a few of us purchased the $40 box from Klingspor's which is enough sandpaper to last me several years.

  • A P100 filter dust mask is a good investment as well for safety gear.

  • FINISH: If you plan to use CA glue as your finish, you need a different viscosity (thin) than what you use to glue the tubes (thick). This means you need to buy two different bottles of CA and look into a pack of MicroMesh sanding pads for polishing the CA finish.

    If you plan on using something else for the finish, make sure you buy what you need.

  • SAW: You need a way to cut pen blanks and trim off excess waste. If you don't own any cutting tools that are sufficient for the job, a cheap miter box will do the job just fine. Make sure you clamp the box and the blank down well before sawing!
u/dokuromark · 2 pointsr/Leathercraft

So I've started buying the parts to see if I could make this thingamabob as well. It looks so useful!

One thing I think I've discovered while researching: I think it might not be absolutely necessary to buy the exact same chuck that the original maker used. I'm thinking any 1/2" threaded chuck would do. Here's my reasoning: I thought at first that the threaded rod coming off the lever piece would screw directly into the chuck (and thus it would be important to match up the threading of the lever shaft with the threading inside the chuck. But now that I look at the step-by-step instructions on the original maker's webpage, the lever shaft is screwing directly into the nut he's epoxied onto the chuck. I think the lever shaft screws into the nut and then just moves deeper into the chuck when he adjusts the height of the piece, never actually touching the threads of the chuck itself. I ordered the same lever you did, and after taking it down to a hardware store and playing with that little gadget that helps you determine threading sizes, I found out the lever shaft on this one is threaded M8 1.25 (metric). That's definitely narrow enough to fit into the 1/2" thread inside the chuck.

I came just 'cause I was thinking if you were getting impatient about the delivery time of the chuck you ordered, I think you could get a different (but still cheap) 1/2" chuck on Amazon with Prime and get it lickety split. This is the one I got, but it appears to be out now. :(
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LDSSNP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This one looks like it might also work:
https://www.amazon.com/Eyech-Keyless-Universal-Replacement-Electric/dp/B078H9N23D/ref=sr_1_26?s=hi&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1525220991&sr=1-26&keywords=1%2F2+keyless+chuck&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
Anyway, just a thought. As it turns out, I'm not using the one I bought, because I remembered I had an old . drill of my dad's, and I just took off the chuck and am using that one.

For epoxying the nut to the chuck, I ended up buying Original JB Weld at the local Home Depot, simply because it was the strongest they had. I haven't tried it yet.

Speaking of the nut, I held up my M8 1.25 nut to the chuck, right where the guy showed he epoxied his, and wow, there's just a tiny TINY about of metal-to-metal contact available there. I'm starting to think about how difficult it will be to get that nut on there centred, and how well it will stay. As a possible solution, I bought some flanged nuts of the right size, in hopes they'll provide more surface area for the epoxy. I went to two stores in my area, and they didn't have a bunch of metric hardware, so I just ordered these on Amazon. Fingers crossed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077HSXHPV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm now wondering how to get a threaded shaft that screws into both the lever and the nut. The lever assembly I got just has a bolt screwed into the end, so threaded one end and a hex cap on the other end. What I really need is a threaded rod. What I might do is just get a M8 1.25 bolt and hacksaw the cap off. There's a big fingers crossed moment.

Hope your build is going well! Thanks again for this great post!

u/popperpig · 2 pointsr/popperpigs

DANGEROUS POPPER RECIPE!!!!!!!!!!!!!BEWARE!!!!!!THIS IS THE BOMB!!!!!!!!!

Cute title for this post huh?

Best thing about it? My hands are not shaking as much and I just put the poppers down. God, I adore these Isobutyl pops!

OK, let's get serious. As promised here's Popp-peeeeeeeeeeee Pig! Sorry, I digress and am still a lot spacey.

I will need to tweak this recipe because it is so very potent. You confirmed addicts will fall in love with this. It does have an acidic start to the huff. I should add more acid, me thinks. Will try for the next batch. I will tweak and report but not soon. This batch will last at least 4 days if tonight is any indication.

So let's start: If you do not know JimOakey's set up please go find it and do as it says. I re-posted it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/popperpigs/comments/3k1i6j/adventures_in_popper_production/
Those who do; I will give enough details so you will not need to review the posts.

  1. You will place 1 tablespoon of nitrite in a small, clean mason jar.
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L74HO5M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

  2. Add 2 ounces of distilled water.

  3. Add 2 ounces of Isobutyl alcohol. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009S08MB2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

  4. Mix for 10 minutes. Usually for isoproply I mix until the liquid is clear, usually takes about 30 seconds for isoproply, but I got frustrated waiting so allowed 10 minutes then said, 4 get it. Take it as it is.
    JimOakey uses a portable drill press for mixing. He puts a hand drill in it and places the "J" corner cut from a plastic hanger inserted into the drill as a mixing tool. Take a plastic hanger, turn it upright. See the top and bottom corners look like a J ? Just cut out that J and force it into a hand drill bit slot. So that the little up turn of the J is at the bottom and is the portion that does the mixing - is in the blend. http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452057063&sr=8-1&keywords=portable+drill+press

    Step 5) After 10 minutes allow the mixing to continue. Add 1 ounce of battery acid. Add slowly. I added it slowly over a 4 minute duration. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-battery-acid-cycle-acid/2030000-P?searchTerm=battery+acid


  5. Continue mixing while you wash out your acid pour cup.

  6. Turn off the drill and remove the blend. Allow the popper to rise to the top - about 2 minutes. Drew off the popper with an eye dropper. Put in a plastic container like this:https://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=AwrB8qAYo4xW_WUAdiMunIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTIzdWtmaWIxBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1nBG9pZAMzMTBmNWZjMzU4NDAwY2Q1ZGM4NWE1YjRjMzQ2YzE0NgRncG9zAzIwBGl0A2Jpbmc-?.origin=&back=https%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fyhs%2Fsearch%3Fp%3Dplastic%2Bbottles%26fr%3Dyhs-mozilla-001%26fr2%3Dpiv-web%26hsimp%3Dyhs-001%26hspart%3Dmozilla%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D20&w=500&h=500&imgurl=cdnll.freundcontainer.com%2Fimages%2F500%2F3390B01NAT-Condiment-Bottles.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.freundcontainer.com%2Fplastic-condiment-bottles-ldpe%2Fp%2Fv3390B01NAT%2F&size=11.9KB&name=%3Cb%3EPlastic%3C%2Fb%3E+Condiment+%3Cb%3EBottles%3C%2Fb%3E+-+LDPE&p=plastic+bottles&oid=310f5fc358400cd5dc85a5b4c346c146&fr2=piv-web&fr=yhs-mozilla-001&tt=%3Cb%3EPlastic%3C%2Fb%3E+Condiment+%3Cb%3EBottles%3C%2Fb%3E+-+LDPE&b=0&ni=21&no=20&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=12cmkin1v&sigb=14a3rnv76&sigi=125l9qmk1&sigt=11eiodf26&sign=11eiodf26&.crumb=pIsY04NLJw4&fr=yhs-mozilla-001&fr2=piv-web&hsimp=yhs-001&hspart=mozilla


    I paint my container black and keep in a room temp, dark corner of my office.


    I drew 23 ml from this batch, but tossed the rest - about 1 ml.

  7. Wash out your mason jar and eye dropper.

  8. Allow about 6 hours to cure.

  9. Get fucked up.
u/GlamRockDave · 6 pointsr/HomeImprovement

impact drivers aren't ideal for drilling but if you really want to go through with it you need a set of 1/4" hex shank drill bits like this

An alternative is getting a proper drill bit chuck that fits into you impact driver so that you can use any bits you want (give you the option to get bits specific to the material you're drilling)

But really the best thing to have is a real drill meant for drilling, especially the larger the hole you're trying to drill.

EDIT: the reason impacts aren't ideal for drilling is that by nature they're supposed to start banging away in small powerful knocks when they encounter resistance, and which allows a relatively small motor to drive deep screws or loosen tight bolts, but a drill bit cuts most efficiently when it just powers through and keeps spinning and slicing. If the bit stops and start chipping you're mangling the work and might get your bit jammed. Newer more expensive drills have some power management built in to adjust torque automatically depending on load to try and keep the bit spinning smoothly, which is even better, but even a cheap drill will be better at drilling holes than an impact drive.
That said, for what you're doing, the impact drive will do exactly what you want (for free). So have at it. But if you want to start drilling large holes in those joists, get a drill.

u/With_which_I_will_no · 2 pointsr/woodworking

it will depend on what your thinking about doing. are you going to dedicate it to the table? answer these questions first.

generally people use a router table for work that would be dangerous if done by hand or requires very large cutter or cannot be done off the edge via a roller bearing.

making millwork for doors or windows, raised panel doors, stick and cope cabinet door construction, pattern routing...

I would start with the router table I wanted first? then work back to the motor/size brand that fits your budget.

your going to get all kinds of answers from /r/woodworking on tool brands. it's like a religious type of thing with most people.

Hitachi, Dewalt, Porter Cable all make very nice routers. my jess em table has a larger porter cable and it has run thousands and thousands of linear feet of material.
this one, it used to be the largest router they made. I don't know if that is true anymore but for a router table, go big.

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7518-Speedmatic-5-Speed-Router/dp/B0000222V3

although I have only really been buying festool stuff for the last 3 or so years and would never go back to the other brands, but I know that is not an option for everybody and some like to just hate the festool stuff because it's very expensive. For me the $ is not an obstacle and they are the best production quality machines out there.

once again I'm a heavy user, as close to prosumer wood worker as you can get and have been doing it for a long long time.

edit:
also put one of these on your table router if you can

http://www.amazon.com/MuscleChuck-Camless-Change-2-Inch-Porter/dp/B00AO717HE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Z8N9WHXD921CHNBPEDP

makes changing bits super easy, no more busted knuckles. I think white side also has something like this?

u/spasticpoodle · 1 pointr/Fixxit

Too late for this, but easy outs are NOT for use with seized screws. They are only for use with screws whose head is buggered.

I wrote this up a while back, you should give it a read:

Best tools for removing broken or stripped screws.

As for getting the easy out OUT, there is another option, but you need some crazy tools. Mainly a drill-press stand for your hand held drill, and a hollow, diamond coring bit, like what you would use for drilling a hole through glass or ceramic. If you can cut around the easy out with the coring bit, then you can break it free. Next, you finish over-drilling the hole, and then insert a threaded insert to bring the hole back down to the correct size.

Parts I'm talking about:

Drill guide The drill guide is important because the coring bits will walk all over the place since they don't have a center point. The guide can be fastened, held, etc. in place better, and help guide the bit to where it needs to go.

Core bit
You can also use a more standard bimetallic hole saw, just without the pilot bit installed.

Threadsert (Choose the ID of the original fastener, and find it in SS, not carbon) Don't use a Helicoil, those things are shit. (Speaking from LOTS of experience here...)

Two taps that match the outside threading of the threaded insert. One a taper tap, and one a bottoming tap.

u/indiaisthebestalways · 1 pointr/india
Okay, that's wonderful!

I did some more research and I really feel that you don't need the drill bit adaptor.

The Torque Setting adaptor would be a much better option, I feel.

https://www.amazon.de/Bosch-Zubeh%C3%B6r-2608190046-Drehmomentaufsatz-f%C3%BCr/dp/B00141BTQ8/

http://www.amazon.in/Bosch-Torque-Setting-Attachment-IXO3/dp/B00141BTQ8

At the end of the day, it's your choice and decision. I was glad to be of help!

)
u/livebrains · 1 pointr/Luthier

It's a little small. It has a 208 mm swing, which is 8" in Freedom Units. That means its maximum depth is 4", which is too shallow for some bridge posts.

If you're looking to go cheap, and you're building from scratch instead of performing repairs and general shop projects, a cordless drill attachment will work for you.

There's only 6 or 8 holes to drill on a standard 6-string guitar, so while a drill press is very useful, it's not an absolute necessity.

That being said, having a drill press is awesome, and it's worth paying for a larger used one if you decide to invest in one. I have a used one with a 14" swing and it's an ideal size.

u/robobug · 2 pointsr/turning

note, they are right about the mandrel, but if you want to drill the blank on the lathe, you'll need a jacobs chuck and a regular one. I got a cheap Grizzly and it works great on my harbor freight lathe(18x10)

http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H8049-6-Inch-4-Jaw-1-Inch/dp/B000M63176/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1451192165&sr=8-6&keywords=lathe+chuck

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-Products-TM32-Diameter/dp/B004CVJC20/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451192244&sr=8-1&keywords=jacobs+chuck



Side note, some pen kits are fine to turn between centers but a mandrel is certainly the safest.

u/steinauf85 · 1 pointr/Tools

both have been linked in this thread.

you yourself found the hex shank bits:
> I’m assuming my only option is impact ready like this DEWALT DD5160 Impact Ready 10 Piece Titanium Drill Bit Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KUENH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BH57AbSDWFX1B

and the top comment linked you to the keyless adapter:
> That chuck only accepts 1/4" hex bits. You'll need something like this in order to use twist drills, or you can buy 1/4" hex/"impact ready" drill bits like these.. The other style you are used to is called a keyless chuck.

u/silverbull_it · 1 pointr/homegym

I did use a drill press. And even then not all the holes lined up perfectly. I be to do some fine tweeks at the end. I'd say either find a buddy with a drill press or save up and buy one. Some aren't all that expensive. Drill presses come in handy. Good luck with you build. This Or This

u/Jordo_99 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Perhaps this will get me flamed here for doing things the wrong way but it's working for me on my table-less setup (currently making a router table and saving up for a table saw so I can avoid relying so heavily on these techniques in the future).

A table saw is probably what you need to do this properly but this is sort of a "poor mans fence".

My current workaround is to draw my cut line, and then clamp a straight edge ruler (or other material that's perfectly straight) 1" to the side. When I make my cut I know it will be perfectly straight if I keep the metal guide flush to the clamped piece the entire time.

This is also how I'm using my router with straight bits to make dado cuts (measure up 2 3/4" from the center line for my router guide)...I know there are probably better ways to do this but again, no table saw so I'm making due with what I know and what I've got.


  • This might also be a decent purchase depending on your needs:
    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007K5HIFS/

  • For fun, here's another similar item for converting a hand drill to a portable drill press:
    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/


    Those are both probably tools/adapters which are not going to be better than a table saw or drill press but they're also appealing for those with limited budget or limited work space.
u/semidemiquaver · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I did it without a drill press - did it by hand without an aid actually, but I've been doing woodworking for a while so I'm pretty comfortable with that. I know you can get a drill that has a bubble level on the back, which is great if you have that. There are also drill guides like this one.

u/jarrit0s · 1 pointr/SpaceBuckets

This "rotary tool" is great. I got mine for $12 at Walmart. I've had it for 3 years now and it still works great. OP, I recommend this; it makes using attachments so much easier.

u/Hairmetal411 · 1 pointr/MilwaukeeTool

This is probably not what your looking for but This Old Tony swapped the original chuck on his M18 for an aftermarket one that works better for what he does.

Here's the video, the drill starts about 1:00 : https://youtu.be/PMv0noH_j4k

And here's the link to said chuck: Superior Electric ST13B 1/2" Keyless Drill Chuck 1/2"-20 UNF Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Z2O4CK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p0nTDbJJB0WZ6

u/ninetynein · 4 pointsr/PenTurning

Pen turning is an excellent hobby! For making pens, some things you'll need might include:

  • pen blanks, a pen kit, and bushings for that specific kit

  • a way to drill the blank to glue in the inserts. If you don't have a drill press, then you can drill on your lathe with a chuck, a face plate, and a way to hold the blanks like some pen jaws. If you do have a drill press, then to ensure that you're drilling vertically, some people use a pen vice

  • Once the blank is drilled and the insert is glued in, you need to to trim it with a barrel trimmer

  • then you put it on your lathe by putting the bushings on either side of the blanks, and sliding the whole thing on a mandrel

  • Then you turn it, finish it, and assemble it. Some people use a pen press

    Note: Of course there are a million ways to do everything. I don't promote any of the links, they're just examples to show what the tools look like.
u/FattyMcNasty · 1 pointr/turning

I don't have a drill press. I have had great success with the Barracuda Wood Lathe Chuck and Drill Chuck. This works very well. Still need to tap it out slowly to prevent build up inside the tube.

u/ClearlyMajestic · 4 pointsr/BeginnerWoodWorking

I don't know anything about dowels, but if the OP is talking about the need to drill perpendicular holes, I just picked up this jig and I like it so far for general woodworking:

Milescraft 1312 DrillBlock

​

There's another style that might be more precise for dowels since you can buy more bushing sizes. For example:

Dowel drill bit guide

​

And if you need more angles than just 90 degrees, there are hand drill guides like this one:

Milescraft 1318 Drillmade drill guide

​

Edit: I don't necessarily recommend the specific models in the 2nd and 3rd links. They were just the first examples I came across.

u/PhysicsDude55 · 2 pointsr/Tools

There are some "hand drills" that may be close to what you're thinking of. Most of them are cheaply made from China, and most of them only have 1/8" chucks and are meant for light duty stuff.

A quick search yields something like this and this, And of course you can always get a 1/4" to 3 jaw chuck adapter like this.

Ratcheting tap wrench is an interesting idea, although they don't have 3 jaw chucks, they're typically 2 jaw chucks with square recesses that probably don't grip anything well that's not a square end tap.

u/Hawk427 · 3 pointsr/Tools

That chuck only accepts 1/4" hex bits. You'll need something like thisin order to use twist drills, or you can buy 1/4" hex/"impact ready" drill bits like these.. The other style you are used to is called a keyless chuck.

u/MoogleMan3 · 1 pointr/Tools

There's two I love; wera's rapidaptors and one made by bosch.

You don't need to move a collar to insert bits; just push it in and they're locked. You can pull the collar and remove the bit in one motion too; amazing holders.

u/korchar · 6 pointsr/woodworking

this drill press attachment looks like your best option for me. Since you are doing a grid a standard drill press will not work. I'd say its either this for $25, or a cnc for $2500.

http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA

u/vikingcode1 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416019787&sr=8-2&keywords=sontax+drill

No comments on drill bushings, but I have something nearly identical to the linked guide, and with a better (corded) drill I think it'd be fairly accurate. I've only used it for rough work (deliberately). Might be worth considering. Certainly cheaper than bridge city stuff.

u/RedGene · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

No, you don't need titanium, but they're relatively cheap. Since 1/4 shank drill bits usually aren't being used in wood, they're made of a little tougher stuff for masonry etc. But these will be fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Tooluxe%C2%AE-10171L-4-inch-Titanium-13-Piece/dp/B000P6G74M/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1ZYCR1J8C8C1ZMH419NS

You can also get a drill chuck for your impact driver:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BTM5JY?psc=1

And then just use any cheap drill bit.

http://www.amazon.com/Decker-15-110-General-Purpose-10-Piece/dp/B00280MC9M/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457123622&sr=1-5&keywords=drill+bit

The pot rack doesn't tell you the size of the hooks so you can't just buy one drill bit but drill bits are cheap. You want to choose a drill bit that is approximately the size of the shank on the ceiling hook, but you need to have it in hand to figure out. Hold the drill bit behind the threads on the hook and choose one where you can just barely see the drill bit between the threads.

u/p2p_editor · 1 pointr/woodworking

I would probably try to make a jig that incorporates a drill guide.

Basically, use scrap wood to knock together some kind of cradle to hold your blank perfectly horizontal, then find a way to mount the drill guide onto the cradle, rigidly and at perfect right angles, then drill away.

u/TrueEvenIfUdenyIt · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

It is a torque setting, but as torque gears up, max speed goes down. I should have said that more clearly.

There are a few ways to go keyless. You can replace the chuck, or you can use something like this in various configurations: http://www.amazon.com/Rockwell-RW9275-Keyless-Chuck-Accessory/dp/B005BTM5JY

u/Nemo_Griff · 1 pointr/lockpicking

I know a polish like that serves no practical use but they sure do look purdy!

Here is the polish & the felt wheels, I also had to pick up the chuck just to make is easy.

u/nickels55 · 1 pointr/cade

Forstner bit as mentioned, and one of these is key for making the hole level, straight, and better than by hand:
https://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/

u/Fred7099 · 6 pointsr/woodworking

You'd be better off with a guide like this:

Wolfcraft 4525404 Drill Guide Attachment for 1/4-Inch or 3/8-Inch Drills https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_alA0xbMA692QH

u/NegativeGhostrider · 1 pointr/vita

No worries happy to help.

As far as a dremel goes, I got this and this to take Dremel tips. It works amazing.

u/TheSecretIsWeed · 1 pointr/electronics

I use the following(links below). I've seen them all available at walmart for not too much more.
Using the drill press you wont break any bits, at least I havent. If you size your holes correctly the lack of copper in the middle of the hole will guide your drill bit automatically so you can be off center by a small amount. I've made about 40 boards all with a crapton of holes and still havent worn out my smallest drill "1/32" bit which I use constantly.

The smallest drill bit I've been able to find is 1/32 which works for chips that fit into a breadboard. I haven't found smaller but if you see something smaller get it because even 1/32 is a pretty big hole for the majority of leads. Its about 2x too big for most chip feet.


http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1414792230&sr=1-1&keywords=dremel+drill+bits


http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4486-MultiPro-Keyless-Chuck/dp/B0000302ZV/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1414792230&sr=1-2&keywords=dremel+drill+bits

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Workstation-Drill-Press-Holder/dp/B008F6HLS0/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1414792250&sr=1-4&keywords=dremel+drill+press

u/curiouspj · 1 pointr/Machinists

Since it isn't my money, i'd recommend a msc - Gerardi Standard over a Kurt vise. Well out of the price range buy it's got European design slathered all over it.


Albrecht drill chuck. Highest quality drill chuck and German made too. Go with an integrated R8 for best runout accuracy. Amazon - Albrecht 1/2 capacity R8 / Amazon - Albrecht 5/8 capacity R8

Bottle of blue/red dykem.

Gauge Block and gauge Pin set. Amazon - Gauge Pin set of 3 (.011-.06)(.061-.125)(.126-.500)

Dial Bore gauge set. Amazon has smaller range sets for cheaper as well.
Amazon - Mitutoyo .7-6" range bore dial gauge set

1-4" set of micrometers. I personally prefer Amazon - Brown and Sharpe Micrometer set 1-3". it's out of stock atm and actually I bought all of them individually.

Rotary indexer.

u/one_last_drink · 2 pointsr/StonerEngineering

Lots of option here. From the incredibly simple (and not as accurate for a very deep hole) to the more secure to the more intricate setups where there is a separate chuck and you can set angles if you want to. Look around a bit and figure out what the easiest way for you to securely clamp the drumstick is gonna be then I guess decide from there what option you want to go with, that will also give you enough travel to be able to drill out the full length of the stick.

Edit: also something to keep in mind is the longer the hole, the more resistance you are gonna get so depending on the size of your hole the drag might get a bit excessive.

u/FrankyFe · 1 pointr/Tools

I bought a couple of these when it was $7CDN on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CC2100-5-Piece-Chuck-Adapter/dp/B00004R9LD

They allow me to use driver and hex shank drill bits. A better, more versatile option IMO.

u/jakkarth · 4 pointsr/turning

The taper is a 2. This is the one I bought. Works great.

u/Jataka · 3 pointsr/Chinesium

It was an M12 drill, not an M18, which apparently behave differently in this respect according to other people commenting, but this is my favorite chuck.

u/afro_stig · 0 pointsr/woodworking

This is the one I used. I would be very cautious to use it again. Just be sure it is square before you start. I set mine at the labeled 90deg mark on the tool but clearly was not.

u/Nenotriple · 0 pointsr/3Dprinting

This may be silly, but would a flex shaft from a power drill work?

Like this Amazon link

Or are they just way underpowered?

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/turning

If you can part with $35 or so, I suggest this in the interim:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CVJC20/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What I do is make a basic shape with the spindles on the lathe, then drill a hole lengthwise through the peice. Then run a bolt through the wood, so that it sticks out 1" or so on one side. Then clamp the bolt with this chuck.

Yeah, there's a hole in your piece, but it adds a little freedom until you have $180 to drop on a chuck.

See MS paint drawing below. The wood is a cutaway view.

http://i.imgur.com/TY8f5aJ.png

u/kDubya · 2 pointsr/engineering

Use one of these.

That, with the proper speed (too slow is better than too fast) and some oil and you'll be fine.

u/scubthebub · 1 pointr/woodworking

I haven’t tried one but [I’ve seen this](Milescraft 1318 Drillmate Drill Guide with chuck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014A1Z92I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wS9JDbTKQYZ2Q) which could help.

u/fpreview · 5 pointsr/fountainpens

> Needless to say this would be a royal pain to machine out without a CNC

Don't see why it would be a royal pain, do you have a mill already? If so, look at https://www.amazon.com/OrangeA-Dividing-Precision-Tailstock-Universal/dp/B06XYYGLQ8 for a more accurate but more expensive option or https://www.amazon.com/Inches-Tilting-Rotary-Centering-T-nuts/dp/B072BSVMSW for a more manual, less accurate option. Both will get you there, including the cap top effect.

Fun design, if you have the lathe and mill you should try to make it.

u/dilespla · 2 pointsr/turning

Don't sweat it, I have the same lathe. It's not some one off oddball, so you can find anything you want for it, just like the Jet mini's and stuff.

I have this chuck, these pen jaws, and this pen mandrel. Oh, and this drill chuck.

The chuck comes with everything you need to get started with bowls and such. All the other stuff I use for pens.



u/vincientjames · 1 pointr/Luthier

You can buy an attachable jig for a hand drill like this one

u/Aceed · 2 pointsr/DIY

I think the people saying, "DONT BUY BATTERY DREMELS!" don't really have experience with the latest Li-Ion dremels. The one I bought has 2 Li-ion batteries and a 1 hour charger. I never have downtime with how I use it. I use to be on the "no battery!" train too, until this Dremel.

I use mine for making decorative patterns on canes, cutting nails/bolts, sanding, drilling, screwing, etc. I get at LEAST an hour worth of solid work out of mine. If you're planning to use it as a router, or some other heavy duty task, then I would just an actual router or get a corded Dremel. For how I use it, the ease of use and the fact that it came with two batteries to give me 2 hours of solid Dremel use means that I haven't needed to use my corded Dremel since I bought the new cordless one.

Here is what I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ARTBY6
Hate fucking with Dremel Collets?: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000302ZV Best Dremel add on ever.

u/Jharrigan07 · 3 pointsr/DIY

Get an 18mm or larger forstner bit and a depth gauge or drill guide. http://www.rockler.com/jig-it-drill-guide or like this https://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484608162&sr=8-1&keywords=drill+guide

and one of these: https://www.amazon.com/CMT-537-180-31-Forstner-32-Inch-Diameter/dp/B000P4HLGC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484608191&sr=8-1&keywords=18mm+forstner

It might be worth while getting a bit slightly oversized for epoxy squeeze out or magnets with holes for screws in the center to hold everything in place.

u/NJPhillips01 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Not the best option, but, it is relatively inexpensive, and will get to you in 2-days:

Wolfcraft 4525404 Drill Guide Attachment for 1/4-Inch or 3/8-Inch Drills https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i-ptxb4CC034N

u/Treetbot · 6 pointsr/woodworking

A drill guide like this will work. They lack the absolute precision of a drill press, and definitely not built for daily use, but for an occasional DIYer who can't justify drill press, it gets the job done.

u/philbobalboa · 1 pointr/Workbenches

Originally I was planning to drill them on the drill press before lamination the top. I totally forgot to do that, so I impatiently went at it with a forstner bit. I should have gotten a drill guide because some of the holes are a touch wonky.

https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1318-DrillMate-Drill-Guide/dp/B014A1Z92I

u/bubonis · 1 pointr/Tools

Another vote for a drill guide, though I bought this one from Amazon.

u/supallama · 1 pointr/lockpicking

I am considering purchasing this chuck attachment

https://www.amazon.ca/Dremel-4486-MultiPro-Keyless-Chuck/dp/B0000302ZV

as the chuck on the stock dremel only goes to schlage sized pin diameter, i want to modify american pins which are almost half that.

u/mmm_burrito · 1 pointr/electricians

Just a thought, there's a $30 accessory that will let you put a keyless chuck on am impact driver, so not having a drill doesn't always mean drilling is put of the question. Also there are a number of impact-ready drill bits on the market these days.

u/Garycsims · 1 pointr/StreetFighter

Depends on the material the face plate is made of. If it's metal get a step bit, a decent drill and a drill guide

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10194A-Titanium-Drill-Speed/dp/B000FZ2UOY

https://www.amazon.com/wolfcraft-4525404-Muilt-Angle-Attachment-Drills/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1519142267&sr=1-5&keywords=drill+guide

those should work.

If it's plastic I'd get some forsner bits depending on what size buttons you want

u/lavardera · 1 pointr/Tools

Also - I don't have a drill press, so I'm considering getting one of these drill-holder-guides from Milescraft or Wolfcraft in order to control the drill during this operation.

u/darkfires · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I have a keyless chuck. You can get one on Amazon for $8.

u/chapia · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I used this guide for a project a few years ago. I wasn't thrilled with the build quality of this model when I opened it but it got the job (6, ~1.5"x6" deep holes 90deg to the surface) done.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/

u/skyn3tgh0st · 3 pointsr/woodworking

You could try one of these drill guides . It’s sort of like a portable drill dress. Will probably still be tricky with forstner or spade bits though.

u/paint3all · 1 pointr/guns

Pretty much, yes. I suggest getting a small chuck that way you can put anything with a shank 1/32 to 1/8 of an inch in. It's also quicker than using lock collets. Dremmel brand cutting bits and stuff tend to be expensive, but there's not a whole lot of off brand stuff out there. Craftsman may make some. I would avoid Harbor Freight Tools at all costs. With tools, you get what you pay for.

u/albatrossssss · 1 pointr/Coffee

No I bought on of these to permanently leave on the shaft.

Neiko 20753A Keyless Chuck Conversion Tool | 1/4-Inch Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TCHKXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_bYXZzbJ6KP7XJ