Reddit mentions: The best power drill chucks
We found 102 Reddit comments discussing the best power drill chucks. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 32 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Wolfcraft 4525404 Multi-Angle Drill Guide Attachment For 1/4In. & 3/8In. Drills
- Drill Guide That Can Be Used In Horizontal, Vertical Or Angle Positions
- Guide-Bars Themselves Have Springs For A Quick Return When Doing Repetitive Drilling
- Drill Adapter Itself Slides Up And Down On Guide-Bars
- Angle Positions Can Go Up To 45 Degrees, And Rubber Pads In The Base Hold The Guide In Place
Features:
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 11.75 Inches |
Length | 5.25 Inches |
Weight | 3 Pounds |
Width | 5.5 Inches |
Size | 1 |
Number of items | 1 |
2. PSI Woodworking Products TM32 1/2-Inch Drill Chuck with #2 Morse Taper Arbor (1/2" 2MT)
- Includes the 1/2" Drill Chuck, #2 Morse Taper Arbor, and Jaw Tightening Key
- This 3-Jaw Chuck will mount into the headstock or tailstock of any lathe that accepts #2MT accessories
- The #2MT Arbor accepts 1/4" x 20tpi draw bolt; Draw bolt not included
- Removes easily with knock out bar
- Great for holding drill bits, small turnings, dowels, pen mandrel shafts, and much more
Features:
Specs:
Color | 1/2" |
Size | 2MT |
Number of items | 1 |
3. Milescraft 1318 Drillmate Drill Guide with chuck
Perfect for straight or angled drilling, drilling on the edge of a board or on round stockAttaches to all 3/8" And 1/2" Power drills and it also includes a 3/8" Capacity chuck with keyAngle cuts of 45 Degree to 90 degrees, with a built in angle read out in the all metal baseCentering channels built ...
Specs:
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 16.63 Inches |
Weight | 4 Pounds |
Width | 7.13 Inches |
Size | 1 PACK |
Number of items | 1 |
4. Dremel 4486 Keyless Chuck, ideal for 1/32” (0.8mm) to 1/8” (3.2mm) Shank Rotary Tool Accessories
Quickly and easily change accessory bits on Dremel rotary tools without changing collets. Eliminate the collet and wrench when changing Dremel accessoriesThe steel 3-jaw chuck holds various accessories with 1/32 to 1/8” shank sizesIdeal for light-duty accessories including drill bits, sanding drum...
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 0.3 Inches |
Length | 3.4 Inches |
Weight | 0.01875 Pounds |
Width | 1.8 Inches |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Number of items | 1 |
5. Neiko 20753A Keyless Chuck Conversion Tool | 1/4-Inch Shank,Clear
AN IDEAL ACCESSORY: Turns any ¼” cordless power screwdriver into a drill or grinder to quickly switch tasks and keep the job movingEASY ON AND OFF: Keyless chuck converter to go from driving to drilling in secondsKEYLESS DESIGN: Chuck securely holds round-shank drill bitsONE-HANDED DRILLING: Give...
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 1.1 Inches |
Length | 5.5 Inches |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
6. Bosch CC2100 5-Piece Chuck Adapter and Bits
- Change bits without re-chucking
- Switch from bit to bit quickly
- Accepts all 1/4 In. power hex shank accessories including insert bits, nutsetters and sockets
- Fits all 3/8 In. and 1/2 In. drills
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0 Inches |
Length | 0 Inches |
Weight | 0.29 Pounds |
Width | 0 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
7. Rockwell RW9275 3/8-inch keyless drill chuck for ¼” Hex Drives
- This light-duty keyless chuck attaches to ¼” hex drives
- Allows screwdrivers with ¼” Hex quick-change chucks to use round-shank drill bits
- Traditional 3-jaw design with 3/8 maximum shank capacity
- Not suitable for impact drivers or applications involving high torque load
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3.86 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Width | 0.86 Inches |
Release date | October 2011 |
Number of items | 1 |
8. DEWALT Drill Chuck for Impact Driver, Quick Connect (DW0521)
A great accessory for all your drilling tasksEasily change from fastening to drilling with 1/4-inch hex quick connectConveniently tighten with one hand with the exclusive single sleeve designConstructed with all metal for supreme durabilityComes with DEWALT 90 day warranty and 1 year free service co...
Specs:
Color | One Color |
Height | 2.5 Inches |
Length | 8 Inches |
Weight | 0.65 Pounds |
Width | 4.5 Inches |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Number of items | 1 |
9. HHIP 1/8~5/8 INCH JT3 Drill Chuck with Key (3700-0105)
- Capacity 1/8"-5/8" | Taper Mount JT3
- Supplied with chuck key.
- Accuracy and strong gripping force.
- For portable, bench or floor type drill press.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2.99999999694 Inches |
Length | 5.99999999388 Inches |
Weight | 0.000625 Pounds |
Width | 2.99999999694 Inches |
Size | 1/8-5/8" Capacity |
Number of items | 1 |
10. Eyech 2-13mm Keyless Chuck Adaptor Tapered Drill Chucks with 20 UNF Thread Mount Shaft Universal Replacement Electric Drill Chuck with SDS Plus Shank
Main Material: High Speed Steels (HSS) ; Main Color: Silver Tone, BlackOverall Size:73 x 43mm / 2.87" x 1.69"(L*W)Two pit and two slot, round handle, chuck can tighten on drill bits from 2/25 inch to 1/2 inch (2mm-13mm)Keyless drill chuck,helping to hold and turn to tighten or loosen chuckFits man...
11. LFA / Reichel Hardware 5220L-1/2-20 Keyless Light Duty Double Sleeve Locking Chuck, 1/16-1/2 - 1.5-13mm Capacity, 1/2-20 Threaded Mount
Keyless Drill Chuck LFA Industries 5220L-1/2-20Light Duty Double Sleeve Plastic ShellPatented "Click To Lock" Locking System To Hold the Drill Bit In Place1/16-1/2 - 1.5-13mm CapacityMade In France Over 85 Years
Specs:
Height | 1.67 Inches |
Length | 2.88 Inches |
Width | 1.67 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
12. MuscleChuck Camless Quick Change 1/2-Inch Chuck for Porter Cable 630, 690, 691, 693, 890, 7518, 7519, 7536, 7537, 7538, 7539 ONLY
- Type 1: Fits Porter Cable; 630, 690, 691, 693, 890, 7518, 7519, 7536, 7537, 7538, 7539.
- 1/2-inch shank can use bushings for 1/4-inch, 8mm and 3/8-inch shanks.
- Length: 1.3 in (Approx)
- Run Out: <.002 in
- High Quality Alloy Steel. All materials and processes certified to aircraft standards.
Features:
13. Superior Electric ST13B 1/2" Keyless Drill Chuck 1/2"-20 UNF Mount
Maximum capacity(in): 1/2"Runout(in): 0.013"Minimum Capacity(in): 0.06"Sleeve Diameter (in): 1.7"Mount: 1/2"-20UNF
14. Bosch Torque Setting Attachment for IXO3
- Allows the user to optimise the power transfer to protect smaller screws
- Improves speed and ease of screwdriving
- Practical and easy to use
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 0.62000123873768 Inches |
Length | 1.4725029421988 Inches |
Weight | 0.1984160358 Pounds |
Width | 0.69750139377674 Inches |
Release date | April 2012 |
15. Albrecht 73090 CP160-R8 1/8"-5/8" Classic Plus Keyless Drill Chuck With Integral Shank
- Integrated shank provides more rigidity and accuracy than chucks with a separate arbor
- Chuck has a keyless design to provide a tight grip on the tool without the need for a key and a knurled collar to provide a good gripping surface when opening and closing chuck
- An integrated R8 shank eliminates risk of the chuck slipping off an arbor
- Chuck accepts a wide range of drill bit sizes, from 1/8" to 5/8"
- Heat-treated alloy steel provides strength and wear resistance
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 4.2 Pounds |
Release date | May 2017 |
Number of items | 1 |
16. Albrecht 73040 CP130-R8 1/32"-1/2" Classic Plus Keyless Drill Chuck With Integral Shank
Integrated shank provides more rigidity and accuracy than chucks with a separate arborChuck has a keyless design to provide a tight grip on the tool without the need for a key and a knurled collar to provide a good gripping surface when opening and closing chuckAn integrated R8 shank eliminates risk...
Specs:
Weight | 2.6 Pounds |
Release date | May 2017 |
Number of items | 1 |
17. Bosch 3-Jaw Keyless Chuck with SDS-Plus Shank, 1/2-Inch HA3JAW
EFFICIENT: The Bosch HA3JAW Keyless Chuck is efficient and convenient by quickly locking bits into placeCOMPATIBILTY: The three-jaw chuck is built for use with SDS-plus hammers and straight shank drill bitsDURABLE: The HA3JAW is built with a steel metal sleeve for maximum rugged durabilityQUALITY: B...
Specs:
Height | 1.6 Inches |
Length | 7.3 Inches |
Weight | 0.82 Pounds |
Width | 2.3 Inches |
Size | 1/2-Inch |
Number of items | 1 |
18. ChgImposs Flexible Shaft Drill Bit Extension, Multifunctional Flex Shaft Inner Tube Core with 8mm Chuck for Table Grinder/Electric Drill
Flexible shaft inner core, ideal for intricate workLength: 106cm / 3.5Ft; Inner Core Diameter: 4mm / 0.16"; Chuck Diameter: 8mm / 0.31"Using a flexible drive enables you to take your power tool to the most inaccessible placesIt cannot be installed directly on the chuck of any cordless or electric dr...
Specs:
Number of items | 1 |
19. 【The Best Deal】OriGlam 12-24V Mini Hand Drill Bits, DIY Lathe Press Motor Chuck and Mounting Bracket
√ Power Supply: DC 12 5A -24V 3A√ No Load Speed: 8000r / min ~ 28000r / min√ 555 Ball Bearing Motor Size: approx 36.5 x 75mm√ With JT0 precision drill chuck clamping range is 0.3 - 4mm.√ For milling machine, lathe, drilling machine, wood working machine.
Specs:
Height | 1.968503935 Inches |
Length | 3.93700787 Inches |
Weight | 0.1763698096 Pounds |
Width | 1.968503935 Inches |
20. Mophorn BS-0 Dividing Head 5" 3 Jaw Chuck Precision Dividing Head Tailstock Plates Semi Universal Dividing Head for Milling Machine Tailstock Spindle Milling Mill Set (BS-0 5")
- Type of the head: bs-0 Semi-universal dividing head with 5'' 3 jaw chuck
- Headstock taper: 7 b&s; swing: 7-7/8"; center height: 3-15/16"; threads on back plate: 1-1/2" - 8
- Dividing head can divide in any angle by the direct, in-direct, or different methods. The ratio between the warm and the warm gear is 40: 1
- All models have threaded spindle nose and 24 hole dividing plate with easy Conversion to fast direct indexing on numbers 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12, and 24
- This is our Semi-universal dividing head, one of machine tool accessories for dividing workpieces into equal partitions. By using dividing scale ring, vernier, locating pin, index plate and change gear, workpieces placed can be divided into equal partitions according to your demand
Features:
🎓 Reddit experts on power drill chucks
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where power drill chucks are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Ow that's awesome!
Happy birthday already!
Great to hear that the RAM will be used! That really makes me happy.
I've seen your updated OP and my god, I get way too jealous, haha! This is going to be an amazing PC.
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Watercooling
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I have been looking at it in depth. You don't want to go with the 480mm in the top & 240mm in the bottom setup?
Here is a double 480mm build. Which does look pretty awesome as well.
Here is an other double 480mm build. This one is a bit messy, but just to show you how it will "look".
I would advise to buy the pretty expensive but probably very good & awesome looking window from MNPC tech.
I've send them a mail to question if a 480mm radiator will still fit in the bottom. I am very sure, but not entirely.Just got a reply from MNPC tech and the 480mm radiator will fit no problem.
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As for the tubing, you mentioned that you want hard tubes. Would you perhaps like the extra step to go with glass?
The benefit of glass is that it's very scratch resistant & it stays very clear. It's also not that hard to "cut" but you need to take your time for it. It will take a full weekend for sure to completely watercool it. Or I would say, 2 days at least.
Here is a video that explains on how to cut glass tubes. But it also shows you and explains why you would perhaps want glass tubes.
As you can see at 3:23 the soft tubing got pretty damn clouded. I don't know how long this took, but I guess about a year+ for sure. Probably 2 years, not entirely sure.
When you do go for glass, it's recommended to actually set up the whole loop in plastic first. To get the exact lengths, since you can cut plastic a lot easier than glass. Then you can use the plastic parts as templates for the glass. This will cost you an other $50 extra, but it's mostly going to cost you time.
I will put the plastic in the list.
It's actually great that you'll get the case soon, because then you can measure up a lot of things that I need to know. So I can suggest the right parts! So be ready with a measuring tape.
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GTX1080s, cables & monitors
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GTX1080s:
Yes, getting 2 GTX1080s is going to be "rough". They sell out in a snap, so I highly recommend to make an account at this website:
https://www.nowinstock.net/computers/videocards/nvidia/gtx1080
Then you can get an email / SMS text notification for when parts come back in stock, so that you can order it very quickly. It sells out in less than 2 hours the last time a card came into the store on Amazon.
You can buy any "founders edition" card from any brand really. But EVGA & Asus are 2 that keep the warranty even when you put waterblocks on them. So I prefer those 2 brands, maybe MSI, Gigabyte, Zotac & other brands started to also keep the warranty if you put their cards under water. But I am not sure about that.
I highly recommend to be very careful about all the screws when you put on the waterblock. Just in case you have to send the card back for RMA. You need to have all the screws & the cooler.
Cables:
You have to tell me which color combination you would prefer. They have a lot of options from CableMods.
Then I have a better idea on how to pick out the colors for the rest of the components.
Monitors:
Ow yes, the monitors! I assume that you probably would prefer to have the same monitors all around? That would of course shoot your budget into the roof. If you do go for the Acer 1440p, 165Hz gaming monitor of $759. The LG 4K monitor that I recommended got a very sleek design as well, but it of course is a bit different compared to the Acer 1440p monitor.
Other parts:
I hope that you didn't buy that CPU for $549.99? But anyway, you want to buy a cheap after-market air cooler as well. Since the i7-6700K does not come with a cooler on it's own.
You need this to test the system, before you put it under water, you have to make sure it works on air. Including a stress test for about 2-12 hours. Whatever you prefer. I generally let it stress test for 1 night. Which is about 8-10 hours.
I will post my list with all the parts later tonight. I hope, but I have to tell you, that you should not order it right away. We have to do some measurements first!
Measurements:
I will make a paint drawing to show you exactly what I need to know in terms of all the measurements.
Tools:
Magnetic screwdriver set | $20
Set of files | $15
Handsaw | $13
Electronic drill | $50
1/8" to 5/8" adapter chunk | $20
Velcro straps | $8
Anti static wrist strap | $5
Working on the whole list now (again).
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#####Again, if you have any questions. Feel free to ask!
> The Lathe:
Sounds like you've got this well under control.
> The Tools:
There are very split camps on tools: replaceable carbide tips vs traditional tools. Personally I think both have a place, but I do feel it's best to start with traditional tools to learn the how and why tools work the way they do. My personal opinion is always to spend the real money on good tools. They don't have to be expensive, but the right tool of the right quality (sharp, of course) will make all the difference in the world. Every try to dig a post hole with a hand trowel? :)
Also don't feel bound by just one brand or type of tool...most of us have lots of tools!
You can go with carbide-tipped tools such as Easy Wood Tools, Simple Woodturning Tools, or other brands. You can make your own for a fraction of the cost to buy.
There are a few of good entry-level HSS sets out there for about $80, such as this frequently recommended set of Benjamin's Best. I also like Hurricane brand tools which I feel are excellent entry-level HSS tools for the money. Either of those would serve you well through the learning curve and a good ways into your turning career.
If you wanted to pick just two higher-end tools, I feel Crown's Pro PM are good for the price. I own several, they're nice, but the handles are a bit short for my knuckle-dragging frame! All you really need for the projects you listed is a skew chisel and a spindle gouge.
Lastly, you could buy some of the popular "buy it for life" tools like Thompson Lathe Tools or D-Way Tools. These are widely considered the upper end of turning tools with each tool running between $55-200 (handles sold separately). Many people who get serious about their hobby end up with these tools because the harder tool steels are more durable.
> The Bench Grinder:
The Rikon 80-805 is the most common good deal for a grinder. Occasionally some other Asia-import will pop up on the scene for a little while, but the Rikon is pretty predictable about going on sale. Also, it comes with two decent wheels to get you started; not all import grinders come with decent wheels.
Eventually you might want to invest in CBN wheels to replace the frangible wheels that come on the grinder, but that's probably down the road for you.
Lots of people use that grinder, I've not heard anything outright bad about it (although some people prefer one with more HP).
> Drill Press?
A cheap drill press will get you there just fine.
The most common alternative is to purchase a 4-jaw chuck, such as the Nova G3 (which requires the appropriate insert), and also a set of pen drilling jaws and a drill chuck for the tailstock. That lets you drill blanks entirely on the lathe (and with better accuracy than a drill press IMO).
The downside is that the 4-jaw chuck, insert, jaws, and drill chuck collectively will cost damn near $200, which is a lot more than a cheap drill press. The upside is that the chuck is exactly what you will need if you decide to get deeper into turning and want to try bowls, boxes, and other things. Many of us already owned or planned to own a chuck, so the only real cost addition was the pen drilling jaws and the drill chuck.
> Pen turning attachments
If you plan on using something else for the finish, make sure you buy what you need.
So I've started buying the parts to see if I could make this thingamabob as well. It looks so useful!
One thing I think I've discovered while researching: I think it might not be absolutely necessary to buy the exact same chuck that the original maker used. I'm thinking any 1/2" threaded chuck would do. Here's my reasoning: I thought at first that the threaded rod coming off the lever piece would screw directly into the chuck (and thus it would be important to match up the threading of the lever shaft with the threading inside the chuck. But now that I look at the step-by-step instructions on the original maker's webpage, the lever shaft is screwing directly into the nut he's epoxied onto the chuck. I think the lever shaft screws into the nut and then just moves deeper into the chuck when he adjusts the height of the piece, never actually touching the threads of the chuck itself. I ordered the same lever you did, and after taking it down to a hardware store and playing with that little gadget that helps you determine threading sizes, I found out the lever shaft on this one is threaded M8 1.25 (metric). That's definitely narrow enough to fit into the 1/2" thread inside the chuck.
I came just 'cause I was thinking if you were getting impatient about the delivery time of the chuck you ordered, I think you could get a different (but still cheap) 1/2" chuck on Amazon with Prime and get it lickety split. This is the one I got, but it appears to be out now. :(
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LDSSNP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This one looks like it might also work:
https://www.amazon.com/Eyech-Keyless-Universal-Replacement-Electric/dp/B078H9N23D/ref=sr_1_26?s=hi&amp;rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525220991&amp;sr=1-26&amp;keywords=1%2F2+keyless+chuck&amp;refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
Anyway, just a thought. As it turns out, I'm not using the one I bought, because I remembered I had an old . drill of my dad's, and I just took off the chuck and am using that one.
For epoxying the nut to the chuck, I ended up buying Original JB Weld at the local Home Depot, simply because it was the strongest they had. I haven't tried it yet.
Speaking of the nut, I held up my M8 1.25 nut to the chuck, right where the guy showed he epoxied his, and wow, there's just a tiny TINY about of metal-to-metal contact available there. I'm starting to think about how difficult it will be to get that nut on there centred, and how well it will stay. As a possible solution, I bought some flanged nuts of the right size, in hopes they'll provide more surface area for the epoxy. I went to two stores in my area, and they didn't have a bunch of metric hardware, so I just ordered these on Amazon. Fingers crossed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077HSXHPV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm now wondering how to get a threaded shaft that screws into both the lever and the nut. The lever assembly I got just has a bolt screwed into the end, so threaded one end and a hex cap on the other end. What I really need is a threaded rod. What I might do is just get a M8 1.25 bolt and hacksaw the cap off. There's a big fingers crossed moment.
Hope your build is going well! Thanks again for this great post!
DANGEROUS POPPER RECIPE!!!!!!!!!!!!!BEWARE!!!!!!THIS IS THE BOMB!!!!!!!!!
Cute title for this post huh?
Best thing about it? My hands are not shaking as much and I just put the poppers down. God, I adore these Isobutyl pops!
OK, let's get serious. As promised here's Popp-peeeeeeeeeeee Pig! Sorry, I digress and am still a lot spacey.
I will need to tweak this recipe because it is so very potent. You confirmed addicts will fall in love with this. It does have an acidic start to the huff. I should add more acid, me thinks. Will try for the next batch. I will tweak and report but not soon. This batch will last at least 4 days if tonight is any indication.
So let's start: If you do not know JimOakey's set up please go find it and do as it says. I re-posted it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/popperpigs/comments/3k1i6j/adventures_in_popper_production/
Those who do; I will give enough details so you will not need to review the posts.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L74HO5M?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
JimOakey uses a portable drill press for mixing. He puts a hand drill in it and places the "J" corner cut from a plastic hanger inserted into the drill as a mixing tool. Take a plastic hanger, turn it upright. See the top and bottom corners look like a J ? Just cut out that J and force it into a hand drill bit slot. So that the little up turn of the J is at the bottom and is the portion that does the mixing - is in the blend. http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452057063&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=portable+drill+press
Step 5) After 10 minutes allow the mixing to continue. Add 1 ounce of battery acid. Add slowly. I added it slowly over a 4 minute duration. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-battery-acid-cycle-acid/2030000-P?searchTerm=battery+acid
I paint my container black and keep in a room temp, dark corner of my office.
I drew 23 ml from this batch, but tossed the rest - about 1 ml.
impact drivers aren't ideal for drilling but if you really want to go through with it you need a set of 1/4" hex shank drill bits like this
An alternative is getting a proper drill bit chuck that fits into you impact driver so that you can use any bits you want (give you the option to get bits specific to the material you're drilling)
But really the best thing to have is a real drill meant for drilling, especially the larger the hole you're trying to drill.
EDIT: the reason impacts aren't ideal for drilling is that by nature they're supposed to start banging away in small powerful knocks when they encounter resistance, and which allows a relatively small motor to drive deep screws or loosen tight bolts, but a drill bit cuts most efficiently when it just powers through and keeps spinning and slicing. If the bit stops and start chipping you're mangling the work and might get your bit jammed. Newer more expensive drills have some power management built in to adjust torque automatically depending on load to try and keep the bit spinning smoothly, which is even better, but even a cheap drill will be better at drilling holes than an impact drive.
That said, for what you're doing, the impact drive will do exactly what you want (for free). So have at it. But if you want to start drilling large holes in those joists, get a drill.
it will depend on what your thinking about doing. are you going to dedicate it to the table? answer these questions first.
generally people use a router table for work that would be dangerous if done by hand or requires very large cutter or cannot be done off the edge via a roller bearing.
making millwork for doors or windows, raised panel doors, stick and cope cabinet door construction, pattern routing...
I would start with the router table I wanted first? then work back to the motor/size brand that fits your budget.
your going to get all kinds of answers from /r/woodworking on tool brands. it's like a religious type of thing with most people.
Hitachi, Dewalt, Porter Cable all make very nice routers. my jess em table has a larger porter cable and it has run thousands and thousands of linear feet of material.
this one, it used to be the largest router they made. I don't know if that is true anymore but for a router table, go big.
http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7518-Speedmatic-5-Speed-Router/dp/B0000222V3
although I have only really been buying festool stuff for the last 3 or so years and would never go back to the other brands, but I know that is not an option for everybody and some like to just hate the festool stuff because it's very expensive. For me the $ is not an obstacle and they are the best production quality machines out there.
once again I'm a heavy user, as close to prosumer wood worker as you can get and have been doing it for a long long time.
edit:
also put one of these on your table router if you can
http://www.amazon.com/MuscleChuck-Camless-Change-2-Inch-Porter/dp/B00AO717HE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_8?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1Z8N9WHXD921CHNBPEDP
makes changing bits super easy, no more busted knuckles. I think white side also has something like this?
Too late for this, but easy outs are NOT for use with seized screws. They are only for use with screws whose head is buggered.
I wrote this up a while back, you should give it a read:
Best tools for removing broken or stripped screws.
As for getting the easy out OUT, there is another option, but you need some crazy tools. Mainly a drill-press stand for your hand held drill, and a hollow, diamond coring bit, like what you would use for drilling a hole through glass or ceramic. If you can cut around the easy out with the coring bit, then you can break it free. Next, you finish over-drilling the hole, and then insert a threaded insert to bring the hole back down to the correct size.
Parts I'm talking about:
Drill guide The drill guide is important because the coring bits will walk all over the place since they don't have a center point. The guide can be fastened, held, etc. in place better, and help guide the bit to where it needs to go.
Core bit
You can also use a more standard bimetallic hole saw, just without the pilot bit installed.
Threadsert (Choose the ID of the original fastener, and find it in SS, not carbon) Don't use a Helicoil, those things are shit. (Speaking from LOTS of experience here...)
Two taps that match the outside threading of the threaded insert. One a taper tap, and one a bottoming tap.
It's a little small. It has a 208 mm swing, which is 8" in Freedom Units. That means its maximum depth is 4", which is too shallow for some bridge posts.
If you're looking to go cheap, and you're building from scratch instead of performing repairs and general shop projects, a cordless drill attachment will work for you.
There's only 6 or 8 holes to drill on a standard 6-string guitar, so while a drill press is very useful, it's not an absolute necessity.
That being said, having a drill press is awesome, and it's worth paying for a larger used one if you decide to invest in one. I have a used one with a 14" swing and it's an ideal size.
note, they are right about the mandrel, but if you want to drill the blank on the lathe, you'll need a jacobs chuck and a regular one. I got a cheap Grizzly and it works great on my harbor freight lathe(18x10)
http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H8049-6-Inch-4-Jaw-1-Inch/dp/B000M63176/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451192165&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=lathe+chuck
http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-Products-TM32-Diameter/dp/B004CVJC20/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451192244&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=jacobs+chuck
Side note, some pen kits are fine to turn between centers but a mandrel is certainly the safest.
both have been linked in this thread.
you yourself found the hex shank bits:
> I’m assuming my only option is impact ready like this DEWALT DD5160 Impact Ready 10 Piece Titanium Drill Bit Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KUENH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BH57AbSDWFX1B
and the top comment linked you to the keyless adapter:
> That chuck only accepts 1/4" hex bits. You'll need something like this in order to use twist drills, or you can buy 1/4" hex/"impact ready" drill bits like these.. The other style you are used to is called a keyless chuck.
I did use a drill press. And even then not all the holes lined up perfectly. I be to do some fine tweeks at the end. I'd say either find a buddy with a drill press or save up and buy one. Some aren't all that expensive. Drill presses come in handy. Good luck with you build. This Or This
Perhaps this will get me flamed here for doing things the wrong way but it's working for me on my table-less setup (currently making a router table and saving up for a table saw so I can avoid relying so heavily on these techniques in the future).
A table saw is probably what you need to do this properly but this is sort of a "poor mans fence".
My current workaround is to draw my cut line, and then clamp a straight edge ruler (or other material that's perfectly straight) 1" to the side. When I make my cut I know it will be perfectly straight if I keep the metal guide flush to the clamped piece the entire time.
This is also how I'm using my router with straight bits to make dado cuts (measure up 2 3/4" from the center line for my router guide)...I know there are probably better ways to do this but again, no table saw so I'm making due with what I know and what I've got.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007K5HIFS/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/
Those are both probably tools/adapters which are not going to be better than a table saw or drill press but they're also appealing for those with limited budget or limited work space.
I did it without a drill press - did it by hand without an aid actually, but I've been doing woodworking for a while so I'm pretty comfortable with that. I know you can get a drill that has a bubble level on the back, which is great if you have that. There are also drill guides like this one.
This "rotary tool" is great. I got mine for $12 at Walmart. I've had it for 3 years now and it still works great. OP, I recommend this; it makes using attachments so much easier.
This is probably not what your looking for but This Old Tony swapped the original chuck on his M18 for an aftermarket one that works better for what he does.
Here's the video, the drill starts about 1:00 : https://youtu.be/PMv0noH_j4k
And here's the link to said chuck: Superior Electric ST13B 1/2" Keyless Drill Chuck 1/2"-20 UNF Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Z2O4CK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p0nTDbJJB0WZ6
Pen turning is an excellent hobby! For making pens, some things you'll need might include:
Note: Of course there are a million ways to do everything. I don't promote any of the links, they're just examples to show what the tools look like.
I don't have a drill press. I have had great success with the Barracuda Wood Lathe Chuck and Drill Chuck. This works very well. Still need to tap it out slowly to prevent build up inside the tube.
I don't know anything about dowels, but if the OP is talking about the need to drill perpendicular holes, I just picked up this jig and I like it so far for general woodworking:
Milescraft 1312 DrillBlock
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There's another style that might be more precise for dowels since you can buy more bushing sizes. For example:
Dowel drill bit guide
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And if you need more angles than just 90 degrees, there are hand drill guides like this one:
Milescraft 1318 Drillmade drill guide
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Edit: I don't necessarily recommend the specific models in the 2nd and 3rd links. They were just the first examples I came across.
There are some "hand drills" that may be close to what you're thinking of. Most of them are cheaply made from China, and most of them only have 1/8" chucks and are meant for light duty stuff.
A quick search yields something like this and this, And of course you can always get a 1/4" to 3 jaw chuck adapter like this.
Ratcheting tap wrench is an interesting idea, although they don't have 3 jaw chucks, they're typically 2 jaw chucks with square recesses that probably don't grip anything well that's not a square end tap.
That chuck only accepts 1/4" hex bits. You'll need something like thisin order to use twist drills, or you can buy 1/4" hex/"impact ready" drill bits like these.. The other style you are used to is called a keyless chuck.
There's two I love; wera's rapidaptors and one made by bosch.
You don't need to move a collar to insert bits; just push it in and they're locked. You can pull the collar and remove the bit in one motion too; amazing holders.
this drill press attachment looks like your best option for me. Since you are doing a grid a standard drill press will not work. I'd say its either this for $25, or a cnc for $2500.
http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA
http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416019787&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=sontax+drill
No comments on drill bushings, but I have something nearly identical to the linked guide, and with a better (corded) drill I think it'd be fairly accurate. I've only used it for rough work (deliberately). Might be worth considering. Certainly cheaper than bridge city stuff.
No, you don't need titanium, but they're relatively cheap. Since 1/4 shank drill bits usually aren't being used in wood, they're made of a little tougher stuff for masonry etc. But these will be fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Tooluxe%C2%AE-10171L-4-inch-Titanium-13-Piece/dp/B000P6G74M/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1ZYCR1J8C8C1ZMH419NS
You can also get a drill chuck for your impact driver:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BTM5JY?psc=1
And then just use any cheap drill bit.
http://www.amazon.com/Decker-15-110-General-Purpose-10-Piece/dp/B00280MC9M/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457123622&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=drill+bit
The pot rack doesn't tell you the size of the hooks so you can't just buy one drill bit but drill bits are cheap. You want to choose a drill bit that is approximately the size of the shank on the ceiling hook, but you need to have it in hand to figure out. Hold the drill bit behind the threads on the hook and choose one where you can just barely see the drill bit between the threads.
I would probably try to make a jig that incorporates a drill guide.
Basically, use scrap wood to knock together some kind of cradle to hold your blank perfectly horizontal, then find a way to mount the drill guide onto the cradle, rigidly and at perfect right angles, then drill away.
It is a torque setting, but as torque gears up, max speed goes down. I should have said that more clearly.
There are a few ways to go keyless. You can replace the chuck, or you can use something like this in various configurations: http://www.amazon.com/Rockwell-RW9275-Keyless-Chuck-Accessory/dp/B005BTM5JY
I know a polish like that serves no practical use but they sure do look purdy!
Here is the polish & the felt wheels, I also had to pick up the chuck just to make is easy.
Forstner bit as mentioned, and one of these is key for making the hole level, straight, and better than by hand:
https://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/
You'd be better off with a guide like this:
Wolfcraft 4525404 Drill Guide Attachment for 1/4-Inch or 3/8-Inch Drills https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_alA0xbMA692QH
No worries happy to help.
As far as a dremel goes, I got this and this to take Dremel tips. It works amazing.
Something like this (https://www.amazon.ca/Milescraft-1318-DrillMate-Drill-Guide/dp/B014A1Z92I/ref=asc_df_B014A1Z92I/?tag=googlemobshop-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=292949808887&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=6187848914128197040&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9000694&amp;hvtargid=pla-437180793075&amp;psc=1) would be cheaper but would drill straighter holes than free handing it
I use the following(links below). I've seen them all available at walmart for not too much more.
Using the drill press you wont break any bits, at least I havent. If you size your holes correctly the lack of copper in the middle of the hole will guide your drill bit automatically so you can be off center by a small amount. I've made about 40 boards all with a crapton of holes and still havent worn out my smallest drill "1/32" bit which I use constantly.
The smallest drill bit I've been able to find is 1/32 which works for chips that fit into a breadboard. I haven't found smaller but if you see something smaller get it because even 1/32 is a pretty big hole for the majority of leads. Its about 2x too big for most chip feet.
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414792230&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=dremel+drill+bits
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4486-MultiPro-Keyless-Chuck/dp/B0000302ZV/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414792230&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=dremel+drill+bits
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Workstation-Drill-Press-Holder/dp/B008F6HLS0/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414792250&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=dremel+drill+press
Bosch quick bit change thing. They work GREAT: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004R9LD/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_13?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Since it isn't my money, i'd recommend a msc - Gerardi Standard over a Kurt vise. Well out of the price range buy it's got European design slathered all over it.
Albrecht drill chuck. Highest quality drill chuck and German made too. Go with an integrated R8 for best runout accuracy. Amazon - Albrecht 1/2 capacity R8 / Amazon - Albrecht 5/8 capacity R8
Bottle of blue/red dykem.
Gauge Block and gauge Pin set. Amazon - Gauge Pin set of 3 (.011-.06)(.061-.125)(.126-.500)
Dial Bore gauge set. Amazon has smaller range sets for cheaper as well.
Amazon - Mitutoyo .7-6" range bore dial gauge set
1-4" set of micrometers. I personally prefer Amazon - Brown and Sharpe Micrometer set 1-3". it's out of stock atm and actually I bought all of them individually.
Rotary indexer.
Lots of option here. From the incredibly simple (and not as accurate for a very deep hole) to the more secure to the more intricate setups where there is a separate chuck and you can set angles if you want to. Look around a bit and figure out what the easiest way for you to securely clamp the drumstick is gonna be then I guess decide from there what option you want to go with, that will also give you enough travel to be able to drill out the full length of the stick.
Edit: also something to keep in mind is the longer the hole, the more resistance you are gonna get so depending on the size of your hole the drag might get a bit excessive.
I bought a couple of these when it was $7CDN on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CC2100-5-Piece-Chuck-Adapter/dp/B00004R9LD
They allow me to use driver and hex shank drill bits. A better, more versatile option IMO.
The taper is a 2. This is the one I bought. Works great.
It was an M12 drill, not an M18, which apparently behave differently in this respect according to other people commenting, but this is my favorite chuck.
This is the one I used. I would be very cautious to use it again. Just be sure it is square before you start. I set mine at the labeled 90deg mark on the tool but clearly was not.
This may be silly, but would a flex shaft from a power drill work?
Like this Amazon link
Or are they just way underpowered?
Essentially something like this but not sure of the DB of that specific motor, attach it to a board of whatever length you like..
https://www.amazon.ca/Deal%E3%80%91-OriGlam-12-24V-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B06Y2G8XZL/ref=sr_1_3?rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540676545&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=lathe+motor+with+chuck&amp;refinements=p_85%3A5690392011
Throw a mini vice on the other side and then attach something like one of these.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07J1CTW1N/ref=sspa_dk_detail_7?psc=1&amp;pd_rd_i=B07J1CTW1N&amp;pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;pf_rd_p=0c4797d7-01ae-4f2b-9625-15b63bbba1db&amp;pf_rd_r=B534F4P16VSCGP2G5HY5&amp;pd_rd_wg=x1Dqm&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pf_rd_t=40701&amp;pd_rd_w=4kQ4o&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&amp;pd_rd_r=cfe03f27-da32-11e8-af33-013c6f83c3a6
Edit* even if the motor was a little loud you could soundproof it a little with some wood and Styrofoam.
If you can part with $35 or so, I suggest this in the interim:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CVJC20/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
What I do is make a basic shape with the spindles on the lathe, then drill a hole lengthwise through the peice. Then run a bolt through the wood, so that it sticks out 1" or so on one side. Then clamp the bolt with this chuck.
Yeah, there's a hole in your piece, but it adds a little freedom until you have $180 to drop on a chuck.
See MS paint drawing below. The wood is a cutaway view.
http://i.imgur.com/TY8f5aJ.png
Use one of these.
That, with the proper speed (too slow is better than too fast) and some oil and you'll be fine.
I haven’t tried one but [I’ve seen this](Milescraft 1318 Drillmate Drill Guide with chuck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014A1Z92I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wS9JDbTKQYZ2Q) which could help.
> Needless to say this would be a royal pain to machine out without a CNC
Don't see why it would be a royal pain, do you have a mill already? If so, look at https://www.amazon.com/OrangeA-Dividing-Precision-Tailstock-Universal/dp/B06XYYGLQ8 for a more accurate but more expensive option or https://www.amazon.com/Inches-Tilting-Rotary-Centering-T-nuts/dp/B072BSVMSW for a more manual, less accurate option. Both will get you there, including the cap top effect.
Fun design, if you have the lathe and mill you should try to make it.
Don't sweat it, I have the same lathe. It's not some one off oddball, so you can find anything you want for it, just like the Jet mini's and stuff.
I have this chuck, these pen jaws, and this pen mandrel. Oh, and this drill chuck.
The chuck comes with everything you need to get started with bowls and such. All the other stuff I use for pens.
You can buy an attachable jig for a hand drill like this one
I think the people saying, "DONT BUY BATTERY DREMELS!" don't really have experience with the latest Li-Ion dremels. The one I bought has 2 Li-ion batteries and a 1 hour charger. I never have downtime with how I use it. I use to be on the "no battery!" train too, until this Dremel.
I use mine for making decorative patterns on canes, cutting nails/bolts, sanding, drilling, screwing, etc. I get at LEAST an hour worth of solid work out of mine. If you're planning to use it as a router, or some other heavy duty task, then I would just an actual router or get a corded Dremel. For how I use it, the ease of use and the fact that it came with two batteries to give me 2 hours of solid Dremel use means that I haven't needed to use my corded Dremel since I bought the new cordless one.
Here is what I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ARTBY6
Hate fucking with Dremel Collets?: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000302ZV Best Dremel add on ever.
Get an 18mm or larger forstner bit and a depth gauge or drill guide. http://www.rockler.com/jig-it-drill-guide or like this https://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484608162&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=drill+guide
and one of these: https://www.amazon.com/CMT-537-180-31-Forstner-32-Inch-Diameter/dp/B000P4HLGC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484608191&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=18mm+forstner
It might be worth while getting a bit slightly oversized for epoxy squeeze out or magnets with holes for screws in the center to hold everything in place.
Not the best option, but, it is relatively inexpensive, and will get to you in 2-days:
Wolfcraft 4525404 Drill Guide Attachment for 1/4-Inch or 3/8-Inch Drills https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i-ptxb4CC034N
A drill guide like this will work. They lack the absolute precision of a drill press, and definitely not built for daily use, but for an occasional DIYer who can't justify drill press, it gets the job done.
Originally I was planning to drill them on the drill press before lamination the top. I totally forgot to do that, so I impatiently went at it with a forstner bit. I should have gotten a drill guide because some of the holes are a touch wonky.
https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1318-DrillMate-Drill-Guide/dp/B014A1Z92I
Another vote for a drill guide, though I bought this one from Amazon.
I am considering purchasing this chuck attachment
https://www.amazon.ca/Dremel-4486-MultiPro-Keyless-Chuck/dp/B0000302ZV
as the chuck on the stock dremel only goes to schlage sized pin diameter, i want to modify american pins which are almost half that.
Just a thought, there's a $30 accessory that will let you put a keyless chuck on am impact driver, so not having a drill doesn't always mean drilling is put of the question. Also there are a number of impact-ready drill bits on the market these days.
Depends on the material the face plate is made of. If it's metal get a step bit, a decent drill and a drill guide
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10194A-Titanium-Drill-Speed/dp/B000FZ2UOY
https://www.amazon.com/wolfcraft-4525404-Muilt-Angle-Attachment-Drills/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519142267&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=drill+guide
those should work.
If it's plastic I'd get some forsner bits depending on what size buttons you want
Also - I don't have a drill press, so I'm considering getting one of these drill-holder-guides from Milescraft or Wolfcraft in order to control the drill during this operation.
https://www.amazon.com/COMOWARE-Titanium-Twist-Drill-Bit/dp/B07D9J6JLD/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538519940&amp;sr=1-10&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
They make light duty 1/4" bits these are just an example.
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW0521-Connect-Impact-Conversion/dp/B000KKWLE8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538520015&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=dewalt+drill+attachment&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Z8TOZy3mL&amp;ref=plSrch
This will convert any impact or the drill I linked.
Either option keeps you under budget.
https://www.amazon.com/wolfcraft-4525404-Muilt-Angle-Attachment-Drills/dp/B000JCIMEA
I have a keyless chuck. You can get one on Amazon for $8.
https://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA
I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466287521&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=drill+press+attachment+for+hand+drills
I used this guide for a project a few years ago. I wasn't thrilled with the build quality of this model when I opened it but it got the job (6, ~1.5"x6" deep holes 90deg to the surface) done.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/
You could try one of these drill guides . It’s sort of like a portable drill dress. Will probably still be tricky with forstner or spade bits though.
Pretty much, yes. I suggest getting a small chuck that way you can put anything with a shank 1/32 to 1/8 of an inch in. It's also quicker than using lock collets. Dremmel brand cutting bits and stuff tend to be expensive, but there's not a whole lot of off brand stuff out there. Craftsman may make some. I would avoid Harbor Freight Tools at all costs. With tools, you get what you pay for.
No I bought on of these to permanently leave on the shaft.
Neiko 20753A Keyless Chuck Conversion Tool | 1/4-Inch Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TCHKXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_bYXZzbJ6KP7XJ