Reddit mentions: The best power drills

We found 512 Reddit comments discussing the best power drills. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 245 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

17. Performance Tool W3939 Hammer Tough 2-1/2" Drill Press Vise

    Features:
  • 2-1/2" Jaw Width
  • Etched jaws to prevent slipping
  • pivot handle for easy turning
  • slot design mounting holes
Performance Tool W3939 Hammer Tough 2-1/2" Drill Press Vise
Specs:
Height3.5 Inches
Length0.8 Inches
Number of items1
Size2-1/2" Drill Press Vise
Weight2.8 Pounds
Width7.25 Inches
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šŸŽ“ Reddit experts on power drills

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where power drills are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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u/kiwiandapple Ā· 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Ow that's awesome!

Happy birthday already!


Great to hear that the RAM will be used! That really makes me happy.

I've seen your updated OP and my god, I get way too jealous, haha! This is going to be an amazing PC.

---

Watercooling


---

I have been looking at it in depth. You don't want to go with the 480mm in the top & 240mm in the bottom setup?
Here is a double 480mm build. Which does look pretty awesome as well.
Here is an other double 480mm build. This one is a bit messy, but just to show you how it will "look".

I would advise to buy the pretty expensive but probably very good & awesome looking window from MNPC tech.
I've send them a mail to question if a 480mm radiator will still fit in the bottom. I am very sure, but not entirely.
Just got a reply from MNPC tech and the 480mm radiator will fit no problem.

---

As for the tubing, you mentioned that you want hard tubes. Would you perhaps like the extra step to go with glass?
The benefit of glass is that it's very scratch resistant & it stays very clear. It's also not that hard to "cut" but you need to take your time for it. It will take a full weekend for sure to completely watercool it. Or I would say, 2 days at least.
Here is a video that explains on how to cut glass tubes. But it also shows you and explains why you would perhaps want glass tubes.
As you can see at 3:23 the soft tubing got pretty damn clouded. I don't know how long this took, but I guess about a year+ for sure. Probably 2 years, not entirely sure.

When you do go for glass, it's recommended to actually set up the whole loop in plastic first. To get the exact lengths, since you can cut plastic a lot easier than glass. Then you can use the plastic parts as templates for the glass. This will cost you an other $50 extra, but it's mostly going to cost you time.
I will put the plastic in the list.

It's actually great that you'll get the case soon, because then you can measure up a lot of things that I need to know. So I can suggest the right parts! So be ready with a measuring tape.

---

GTX1080s, cables & monitors


---


GTX1080s:


Yes, getting 2 GTX1080s is going to be "rough". They sell out in a snap, so I highly recommend to make an account at this website:
https://www.nowinstock.net/computers/videocards/nvidia/gtx1080
Then you can get an email / SMS text notification for when parts come back in stock, so that you can order it very quickly. It sells out in less than 2 hours the last time a card came into the store on Amazon.
You can buy any "founders edition" card from any brand really. But EVGA & Asus are 2 that keep the warranty even when you put waterblocks on them. So I prefer those 2 brands, maybe MSI, Gigabyte, Zotac & other brands started to also keep the warranty if you put their cards under water. But I am not sure about that.
I highly recommend to be very careful about all the screws when you put on the waterblock. Just in case you have to send the card back for RMA. You need to have all the screws & the cooler.

Cables:


You have to tell me which color combination you would prefer. They have a lot of options from CableMods.

  • Black / Blood Red
  • Black / Blood Red / White
  • Black / Blood Red / Silver
  • Black / White
  • Red / White
  • Red
  • Black
  • White

    Then I have a better idea on how to pick out the colors for the rest of the components.

    Monitors:


    Ow yes, the monitors! I assume that you probably would prefer to have the same monitors all around? That would of course shoot your budget into the roof. If you do go for the Acer 1440p, 165Hz gaming monitor of $759. The LG 4K monitor that I recommended got a very sleek design as well, but it of course is a bit different compared to the Acer 1440p monitor.

    Other parts:


    I hope that you didn't buy that CPU for $549.99? But anyway, you want to buy a cheap after-market air cooler as well. Since the i7-6700K does not come with a cooler on it's own.
    You need this to test the system, before you put it under water, you have to make sure it works on air. Including a stress test for about 2-12 hours. Whatever you prefer. I generally let it stress test for 1 night. Which is about 8-10 hours.

    I will post my list with all the parts later tonight. I hope, but I have to tell you, that you should not order it right away. We have to do some measurements first!

    Measurements:


    I will make a paint drawing to show you exactly what I need to know in terms of all the measurements.

    Tools:


    I've also looked at some tools that you need to build the PC and to watercool it. But I have to ask you if you have certain tools already.
    There may be some other products I am forgetting about right now. Excuse me if I do!

    Item|Price
    ----|:----
    Magnetic screwdriver set | $20
    Set of files | $15
    Handsaw | $13
    Electronic drill | $50
    1/8" to 5/8" adapter chunk | $20
    Velcro straps | $8
    Anti static wrist strap | $5

    Working on the whole list now (again).

    ---

    #####Again, if you have any questions. Feel free to ask!




u/seclat Ā· 6 pointsr/DIY

When I was 12 I bought a toolbox and started filling it with the things I used the most. Ten years later, here's what's in the toolbox I always take with me:

  • Paperclips (small & large) - Never underestimate the utility of long, poky things. I keep some on my keychain, as well & use them often.
  • Leatherman - This gets the most use out of any tool I own. I usually keep it in my backpack.
  • Handheld blowtorch - Good for lighting candles, inspiring fear.
  • 2-part, 5-minute epoxy
  • Marine epoxy - Has the consistency of clay, but hardens even underwater. Can be used to fix cracked or leaking pipes in a pinch.
  • Duct tape
  • Hemostats (curved & straight) - A must if you ever work with small things. They can clamp down to hold two things together, freeing a hand up.
  • Dinky drill - Get one of these. At first I thought it was lame, but having a small, cordless drill around for quickly disassembling things and drilling small holes saves a lot of time & effort.
  • Zip ties (small, large) - These are light and very strong. They come in handy for random things and work like a charm.
  • Hacksaw blades - Just keep a few in the toolbox. I use them primarily to make lockpicks out of. Wrap a length of cord around half of one and use it to saw through small pieces of metal in tight places.
  • Lockpicks - Having a set of lockpicks and knowing how to use them can come in extremely handy. I keep a set in my car and another in my backpack. Read the MIT Guide to get started.
  • Digital calipers - Nice for measuring small things to a high precision.
  • Goof off - Good for getting random stains out & removing sticker residue.
  • Masking tape - I use lots of this.
  • Electrical tape - I don't use as much of this, but you should have some anyway.
  • Wire strippers - You can strip wire with a knife, but these save time.
  • Latex gloves - These are light, low-volume, and very useful for working with messy things like epoxy.
  • Rubber mallet - This is one of the first things I bought, and though it doesn't get as much use as most of the other tools, I've never regretted buying it.
  • Sharpie markers - You always need them, and you never have them. Keep some in your toolbox & away from your desk so they don't get ideas from your ballpoint pens & walk away.
  • Needle & thread - Good for fixing popped buttons and such.
  • Microfile set (also called Jeweler's files) - These come in extremely handy when working with small things.
  • eXacto knives - Everyone should have a set of these.
  • Carpenter's triangle - Very useful for woodworking. This can save you a lot of time if you learn all its uses.
  • Hand drill - I just picked this up recently, but it's come in really handy for precision-drilling small holes or pilot holes.
  • Channel locks - These will hold you off until you have the space & money to buy a full wrench and socket set.

    There's a few other things that don't fit in my tool box but I feel should be mentioned:

  • A good, 1/2" CORDED drill - Don't skimp here. Cordless drills have rechargeable batteries that always wear out and need to be replaced. Use the dinky drill for those kinds of jobs. If you buy a nice corded drill & clean it occasionally, you may never have to buy another one again.
  • Rope - I keep a good length of rope in my car & have used it many times.
  • Steel coat hangers - These are terrible for hanging clothes, but they can be used to make all sorts of things.
  • Dremel tool - You can do anything with a dremel tool and enough cutoff wheels.
  • A hand saw - You can cut pieces of wood pretty precisely with a good hand saw & a little practice, and it's much more compact than the equivalent power tool.
  • Towel - No explanation needed.

    Anyway, these are the things I've taken off to college with me, and they work for 98% of all the jobs I've needed to do over the past four years. Anyway, hope this helps, and good luck to you.

    Edit: The links are to things I have bought, not necessarily the best or cheapest example of each item.
u/J_G_E Ā· 2 pointsr/SWORDS

ok, first off, I'll just emphasise, there's a real big improvement from the previous one you did - each one is clearly showing improvement throughout - especially the shaping of pommel and grip, which are really starting to get into the right sort of ballpark now, compared to your previous one - a huge step forward there.

.

main thing I am spotting is that the pommel and particularly the cross are fairly large and bulky - the cross thickness is much more than most real ones are - its a common fault - people tend to see pictures of swords in profile, and dont really get to see the depth of the crosses - they tend to be much more gracile than they expect... let me see if I can find a few photos on auction houses for you:

  • http://www.hermann-historica.de/auktion/images72_max/210043_b.jpg
  • http://www.hermann-historica.de/auktion/images72_max/202206_b.jpg
  • http://www.hermann-historica.de/auktion/images70_max/91334_a.jpg

    .

    best I can find quickly, those, particularly the last one show clearly how slender hilts can be - the crossguards often taper away to almost be as narrow as the blades. So you might like to think about the 3d nature of the hilt, and how you can shape it to have pretty dramatic curves and shapes which make it quite sculptural, without being bulky at all.

    .

    Given the length of the blade, therefore, I'd have expected it to be much less balanced than it is. What that indicates to me, combined with the weight of about 1.3kg, is that the blade is still pretty chunky along its entire length. Would I be right in saying that the stock you're working from is 1/4 inch thick bar? So, for future ones, you might want to start thinking about making distal taper more dramatic - its a lot of work, and tiring to grind thin, but the results are satisfying when done. These relatively broad cutting blades tend to have fairly agressive distal taper - a blade 75cm (30") long might start at about 4.75mm (3/16ths) thick, 50mm (2") wide at the cross, but by the time it's 10 cm from the tip, they might be just 1.5 mm thick - slightly more than 1/16th of an inch. that sort of dramatic distal taper pulls a lot of mass out of the blade, and that in turn lets you use a more compact pommel and cross, which makes the weapon move much more dynamically. its like the difference between twirling a weightlifting bar with 1kg at each end,like this: |---------| vs trying it with the weight in close to the middle, like this ---|-|---. With exactly the same weight on that bar, just moving the mass into the middle makes it far easier to twirl around and control. Same goes with a sword.

    .

    So, that's the main area I'd look at working on now, tapering the blade down in thickness so there's less mass to it. Other than that, the only thing I can say is, that small spring that came with the larger one is absolutely asking to be used to try a dagger blade. I'd guess the whole thing is about 30cm, 12" long? If so, then its easily big enough to fit a dagger into, working round the holes (you dont want a dagger to be more than about 32mm / 1 1/4" wide, so you can offset it and avoid the holes) , and try out techniques. I'd be inclined to make a small quillon dagger. Cut the bar lengthways for the main blade, but keep the offcut, and then use that to make a steel cross with a curve to it. then saw off a 1/2 inch thick length of the brass you've got, drill it lengthways for a tang and you've got a perfect base shape for a round wheel pommel shape. (also, that lets you practice doing tangs for peined ends, instead to screws, if that's an area you'd like to improve in future.)

    .

    last tip I can give, it looks like you're using a G-clamp and/or mole grips for a lot of your work holding stuff. that's always a nightmare, so I'd thoroughly reccommend one of these little 2-1/2" Drill Press Vises - they're really useful for detail work, in all sorts of crafts applications:

    .

    https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W3939-Drill-2-Inch/dp/B002RTKFWU/ref=pd_cp_469_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YCYCRJ61NHKYGG8CCJ5J

    .

    you can clamp it onto the worktop surface, and it'll allow you far more control working on things like crosses, working with a file, all those sort of little fine details. Not big or tough enough to use as a real vise for clamping work ultra-securely for heavy work, but they're a great investment for fine jobs where you just want a secure hold sitting on the table or bench.
u/Lulxii Ā· 2 pointsr/VEDC

I do a lot of shadetree mechanic stuff, and my toolkit is relatively small and 99% from harbor freight. Invaluable tools for me:

  • Dewalt impact wrench. ($100) Fuck the drill, get the driver and these ($5). This makes zipping things together and apart super easy. Not necessary, but holy shit is it my most used tool. I'm lazy and this saves a ton of time.
  • 3/8" plastic harbor freight socket wrench. ($10) This is a ton better than any steel wrench I've ever had. Great mechanism, ergonomic, light, non-corrosive.
  • Bit set ($23) comboed with the impact driver and one of these ($2), and you're set for any screw/socket situation you could possibly have. I use this so much that I should probably have 2...
  • Breaker bar ($20) for anything that the socket wrench can't handle on its own. Direct competitor to Snap-on for $20
  • Socket set ($30). I don't think I've ever used anything outside of these besides some small jobs where either a special deep socket or thin walled socket was required. Make sure you get an adapter set ($5) so all your tools can work with any sized sockets. While you're at it, get some extensions ($15) and universal joints ($7). These are invaluable when you need them and very useful otherwise. Usefulness factor makes them a necessity in my book
  • I love my channel locks ($7). I don't carry box end wrenches. I've never been like, "fuck, I NEED a box end wrench." I think that anybody who needs them is a damn liar. These channel locks are every crescent wrench combined into one tool. They also serve as pliers, wire strippers, etc. etc. I might upgrade to vice grips one day, but these are still my go-to pliers.
  • Similar to channel locks, some adjustable wrenches ($9) are musts for the same reason channel locks are necessary.
  • Multimeter for electronics. This thing does it all. I want to say it even does continuity which isn't too common.
  • non-harbor freight torque wrench ($57). This one is a direct competitor to snap-on as well. There's a 1/2" drive one that goes up to 150 ft-lbs which can get you by 95% of jobs for ($38) if savings if the penultimate goal. I'd splurge if I were you though on the 250 ft-lb wrench.
  • THE BEST TOOL EVER ($5) Whether you dropped something into the engine bay, need to grab a socket way over 'there', or whatever, this tool is so useful.
  • Jackstands ($50 for 4) - and any jack. I have a nice racing jack, but it's definitely not necessary. Scissor jacks can access tight areas, but bottle jacks are more reliable. I don't care what jack you use, use jackstands BEFORE YOU KILL YOURSELF in the stupidest way possible. Boaters use lifejackets, construction guys use hardhats, mechanics use jackstands. These are your personal protective equipment and they are designed to save your life. Make sure it's rated for your vehicle and carry 2 if you can, but carry at least 1 if you have any inclination to get under your vehicle for any reason. The average person might not need one day-to-day, but the average person shall not go under their car without one. Rant over.
  • OBD 2 engine communication device ($17). I can read and clear engine codes using my phone. I can check O2 sensor voltages, I can check battery voltage, boost pressure, vacuum pressure, my 1/4 mile time, etc. etc. etc. This tool is extremely useful. I consider it necessary given its pricepoint and utility.

    ​

    I don't believe I've missed anything. These are my automotive essentials and are valued at $360 new. Skip the convenient impact driver and you're at $260. I want to make it clear that you can do 99% of any vehicle work using these tools and these tools only. Whether you're changing your tires or dropping the transmission, these will get you 99% of the way there. Most of these have been side-by-side compared with professional grade tools and are very competitive performance-wise. Cost wise, it's no contest. These tools win.

    ​

    Jackstands
u/Jteph Ā· 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Aaalright so he's a simple man. I love that. He likes his tools and his gear to be life lasting and that's something I totally agree with.

A strong ass hatchet would be something manly that he might like.

I know this is out of your price range but a good electric Drill saves you so much trouble when you love fixing things around the house.

He has a pocket knife? Why not a multi-tool. I love these things. Super useful. Or a Swiss army knife.

I would love to have any the above mentioned items as gifts so yeah.

Hope you will find the perfect one thou. Happy hunting :D

u/Nenotriple Ā· 1 pointr/woodworking

Here's a good square: https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-S0101CB-Square-Layout-Combination/dp/B00SOVRPXW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504672358&sr=8-2&keywords=swanson+square

Black and Decker isn't currently known for being a great brand, but they have some great prices on cordless tools.
This black and decker cordless drill is a great bang for the low asking price: https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-LDX120C-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B005NNF0YU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504672428&sr=1-4&keywords=drill
The combo with the circular saw is pretty damn good. If you don't need to cut curves, I would pick a circular saw instead of a jigsaw.

Black and decker also sells a cordless jigsaw: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDCJS20B-Lithium-Jigsaw/dp/B019OF6T38/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504673042&sr=1-2&keywords=black+and+decker+jigsaw

The Harbor freight aluminum bar clamps are fantastic for clamping larger pieces together, and the smaller steel bar clamps are also fantastic for everything else. You can go with pipe clamps, that will cost slightly more than the aluminum bar clamps, but they will work significantly better.

u/Azzmo Ā· 3 pointsr/classicwow

I predict their enthusiasm for pizza wanes after the 15th consecutive meal. Here are some things that I've appreciated lately:

- a strong headlamp that is rechargable. I didn't really wear one for 30 years and I've worn mine 3-10 times a week since buying it a year ago. So, so, so, so useful. So useful. So very nice to have laying around nearby to make everything visible.

- Chair - Staple Hyken - comfortable and breathable

- giant mousepad - $10 to $25 and about two feet by three feet on the desk. When everything is a mousepad life is better

- three-jet butane lighter

- a good 12V drill and a drill bit kit. This has saved me about 10 hours and much frustration so far, though if you are considering it you could do better than that price.

- electric toothbrush

- computer repair kit

- good German alligator pliers

- minimalist wallet

u/cryospam Ā· 1 pointr/mead

OK well I'll give you my recipe, here's what you'll need:

1 large stock pot 30-32 quarts is what you're shooting for. I got mine at Walmart for much less than this.

Yeast nutrient I prefer fermaid K but you can use Fermax, avoid DAP for a while it's kinda rough to dial in for a novice and can cause funky stuff to happen.

Campden Tablets

Wine Tannin

Some form of CO2, you can use Wine Preservation spray or if you paintball like me, fill your tanks up at the local place, and just use a regulator to dispense it.

WLP-099 for yeast. You can also use Wyeast 4347 if you want it to finish a bit sweeter.

You need a bathtub full of apples (not kidding) this is about ~100-150 pounds. I live in New England and buy cider apples for cheap money when they're in season from an orchard.

18-21 pounds of honey depending on which yeast you're using and if you want it to finish sweet or dry, I like to use orange blossom honey for this recipe, but anything light such as clover or some wildflower honeys will work. If you go with the Wyeast stuff stick with 18 pounds, if you're using the White Labs stuff and you still want some residual sweetness, go for 21 pounds.

A juicer to crush your apples. You could do this manually, but you will hate your life.

A Carboy stirrer or a Wine Whip You could use a super long stainless steel spoon, but in all honesty these do a much better job.

A big ass primary bucket this is what I use now, but if you've got a pair of 6.5 gallon buckets you're good too. I drilled a hole in the top for my "dry airlock" These open at 0.25 PSI, and they're both indestructible and cheap, plus you'll never have to worry about forgetting to fill your airlocks.

2 6.5 gallon glass carboys (these will be MUCH cheaper locally due to shipping costs)

1 All in One Wine Pump with a 10" house filter setup You can get the 1 and 5 micron filters cheaper on Amazon then the site they link there, and for the 0.5 micron finishing filter you get that HERE


Start with a bathtub full of apples with the stopper in, after the tub is full, fill around the apples with hot water. let that soak overnight to loosen up the dirt and hydrate the apples as well as you can. All hot water, no cold for this. Stir up the apples gently.
Wash the apples in bunches the next day, I have my kids help me with this, any ones with bad spots they put aside so I can either reject them outright or just cut the bad spots off. Cut the apples into quarters, only remove the stem and any leaves don't worry about the core or seeds or anything else. Any bad spots or worm eaten apples throw into the garbage.

Run all of the cleaned apples through a juicer. Put the pulp into your big primary bucket & put the juice into your big ass pot.

Heat the juice to 200 degrees, add 3 to 3.5 pounds of honey per gallon of juice (depends on what yeast you're using) and stir until well mixed (and still at 200 degrees.) This is to pasteurize the apple juice and kill any wild yeast or other microbes. Don't boil it, 200 degrees is fine. You should have about 7-7.5 gallons of juice from a full bathtub of apples plus a crapload of solids.

Add 1 teaspoon of Fermaid K nutrient, 1/2 teaspoon wine tannin, and 2 crushed campden tablets, stir that bitch up good.

Pour that on to the apple solids in each bucket. Mix it quickly, and make sure it's still at least 185 degrees F. This will pasteurize your apple solids. If it is under 185 degrees, then either pour in some boiling water and get it back to temperature OR siphon some juice out, reheat that stuff and pour it back. This is the ONLY time you can add ANY water, and if you're quick with the apple juice you won't need boiling water and it will turn out MUCH better.

Wait 24 hours.

Pitch your yeast. For this brew I make a big ass starter of the WLP-099 or the Wyeast 4347. With 3.5 pounds of honey per gallon plus the 100% apple juice liquids, I end up with around 35-37 Brix, giving me a high potential alcohol. The WLP-099 typically eats it nicely if step fed and aerated daily for the first week to give around 22-23% ABV while still finishing sweet with 3 pounds per gallon of honey and the Wyeast 4347 it will finish slightly sweet at around 20-21% ABV.


Let it sit on the apple mash for 30 days, for the first week use the Carboy stirrer to mix it up good, every 3 days add 1/3 teaspoon yeast nutrient for the first 9 days (so initial addition during creation of the must, and an additional 1/3 teaspoon on days 3, 6 and 9 so 2 teaspoons total fermaid K.)

Let the mash sit unmolested from day 12 to day 30.

Siphon that off into glass carboys for secondary.

For this step I normally pull the mead through a 5 micron and then a 1 micron filter (both in a single pass with my filtration setup) this doesn't remove the yeast, but it makes sure no apple particulate is transferred into your secondary. It will still be very cloudy though, to the point where it is opaque, that's fine.

Hit the carboys with some CO2, either from wine preservation spray or the paintball canister setup like I said.

This is where I add spices and any other flavor. I have made a number of differently spiced Cysers, but my typical secondary includes 1/16 teaspoon of ground cloves, 1/8 teaspoon cardamom, 1/4 teaspoon of freshly ground nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon of freshly ground cinnamon.
After 30 more days I rack it off that, passing it once again through the 5 and 1 micron filters.

Then I hit it with CO2 to prevent oxidation and bulk age it. It doesn't move for at least 6 months, 12 if I can leave the carboys full for that long. After 2-3 months aging you can swap to a solid bung as you don't need the airlock anymore.

The mead will clear during aging. When it's transparent, it is ready to bottle. I do one more pass from my carboy through a 0.5 micron filter into another carboy, then siphon into my bottling bucket. I don't like bottling with my vacuum pump I suck at it and just make a big ass mess.

Yea it's a lot of work, but it's some of the best Cyser you'll ever have, and it's got one helluva kick so take care when you drink it.

u/jordanwilson23 Ā· 9 pointsr/DIY

The prices for batteries are high because they can be. I have sold power tools for a few years and their are actually pretty good margins in them. Especially the bare tools. That is why, if a user needs a new battery, their best bet is to buy a kit to keep the batteries and part them out. For example, a Makita BL1830 Battery is 100.00 at Home Depot but you can get an LXT211 for 251-279 when on sale. It comes with 2 batteries, a charger, drill, and impact. All of which are sold for over 100.00 by themselves. This is why you see so many bare tools on Ebay for good prices. People buy the kits and break them down. There is so much profit in tools that you could purchase either of the kits below, break the parts down, and make pretty good money selling them on Ebay:

lxt211
dc970k2

Amazon will sometimes sell the 2nd kit for $89.00. DW9116 Charger -$15 DC9098 Batteries - $20 DC970 Drill - $34. If you search these on Ebay, you will see a couple sellers doing this. Hell, you could even break the items down and sell them on Amazon.

u/ViewAskewed Ā· 2 pointsr/DIY

I have had virtually that same 18v Dewalt drill for almost 12 years and it has never failed me. I actually recently upgraded to 20v and gave my old drill/driver to my wife.

I also work for a company that provides us with 18v Lithium ion Milwaukee drills and I can tell you that we put those things through the ringer each and every day and they are every bit as reliable.

Your biggest reason for the price difference in your two options is that the Milwaukee is a lithium ion kit and they have much much more power. If you are looking for the dewalt counterpart this is closer to its level. If you are serious about drilling through concrete, I would highly suggest getting a hammer drill.

Another thing you might want to consider is buying your drill from a dealer instead of online. Realistically any of the top brands you look at should hold up very well to moderate use, but if you go through a dealer it could make any warranty issues easier.

Hope this was somewhat coherent/helpful. Happy drilling and be sure to come back and share your projects!

u/Nurum Ā· 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I've done a few chimney's before order yourself this and this. The hammer drill has a setting to use it like a mini jackhammer this will allow you to pop the bricks out one at a time. Go buy a big canvas drop cloth (tarps just seem to tear) and put it on the grass. Set up some scaffolding (you can rent this for just a few bucks a day) but make sure to place it in a way that if the chimney were to fall (super unlikely) it won't take you with it. If you want to do it the easy way go rent a manlift.

Honestly a chimney like this is probably only only about 2 or 3 hours of demo and the clean up time will depend on what you have to haul the bricks away. If you have a truck that will tow it go rent a dump trailer. You can then just haul them to the local dump and dispose of them as construction demo (usually pretty cheap). And with the dump trailer you don't need to unload them.

If you get a couple of guys to help you (I shouldn't have to say this but don't let them load while you toss) you could pull it off in a day easily. I did a 3 story chimney with my FIL a few years ago that was in the middle of the house, so we had to use buckets to haul out the bricks and we sill pulled it off by late afternoon.

u/lavardera Ā· 1 pointr/Tools

I'd never use an impact for that - mostly machine screws? I just recently shopped for and got a screwdriver and I feel like I looked at most of what's out there. Its sort of neglected by many tool makers. Here is what I found - more than likely you're looking at a 12v tool, I don't recall even seeing an 18v screwdriver (which is essentially a drill driver with an impact-like quick change chuck).

Milwaukee does have the biggest range - but I see you've not had the greatest experience with them. The single speed driver is limited to 500rpm as you've said, but they make a 2 speed, brushed, and brushless which may serve you better. If I was going to use one all day I'd get the brushless. You may already have some batteries and chargers, so it may make sense to stay Milwaukee. Plus you could get a 1/4 or 3/8 12v ratchet on the same battery which may be useful to you.

Other offerings are few and far between. DeWalt has a decent 12v screwdriver, but its only brushed, it uses a slide pack which makes it a bit bulkier, but the hand grip is a better shape as it does not have batteries in the grip - may be better for your hands.

Makita used to offer a 12v screwdriver in its white compact pistol grip platform, but its hard to find anymore. They don't seem to be doing anything with this line, as they also have their slide-pack 12v line, and I think this is just going to die on the vine.

Bosch seems to be paying attention to this however. They have a nice 2 speed driver, but brushed. They also make a right angle driver for tight spaces - same 12v battery. And they just started offering a 12v drill driver with interchangeable heads - so you can have drill chuck, a hex chuck, and offset hex chuck, and a right angle adapter. If you don't want Milwaukee then I think this one is your best choice.

Ridgid does not have a screwdriver in their 12v pistol form factor, but their drill is noticeably smaller than Milwaukee's and I suppose you could put a quick change chuck into the regular chuck - but makes it longer. Not brushless either. They do have a clever palm screwdriver on the same battery for tight places.

Beyond that - Metabo? Hitachi? Panisonic? I did not look at them.

u/tigermaple Ā· 2 pointsr/woodworking

Thanks! Yes, power sanding is the way to go! (And part of the decision to dry and turn these blanks a second time- they were simply too wet to sand right now). Get something cheap like this since it's hard on the tool anyway. (Or maybe you have a better recommendation on this style cheap drill, this one gets bashed quite a bit on the reviews there and I don't have it myself. The brand I have though was equally cheap from a no-name "Denver tool company" and it's still going strong).

Then get something like this and these. Hold the drill upside down and the rotation should be going the opposite of the rotation of the lathe- this will help minimize the scratch pattern. If the lathe is in "forward" you would basically only want to touch the tool to the bowl between 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock. (Get the tool rest out of the way for sanding).

As far as cutting off the tenon at the end, there are a ton of methods that work from vacuum-chucking, to these to these. Lots of guys do a shop-made version of the Longworth chuck, and that might be right up your alley- I've seen your cross-cut sled and I'd say making one of those looks like about an equal level of commitment to the jig! (I haven't made one).

A donut chuck is a another shop-made way to go. (And I have made one of these- easy peasy!)

The method I use most often is even more low-tech though- a jam chuck, with is basically just a cylinder or really crude bowl shape with a layer of foam held in between the cylinder bowl's rim and the inside of the bowl you're finishing held there again in between centers. (that 1/16" or so stuff that comes in tons of colors in about 9Ɨ12 sheets at the craft store works really well). Then you just turn off the tenon and this leaves a little bit of a nub (what the live center was up against) and you can just carve that off with a hook knife or a carving chisel (I like the Flexcuts for this).

u/CaIzone Ā· 1 pointr/woodworking

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

u/VA_Network_Nerd Ā· 3 pointsr/networking

At 2-20 cabinets I assume these are private facilities and not Co-Location facilities.

It all boils down to well-thought out standards that align with your needs & requirements.

Plenty of good recommendations in the thread already, but I'll chime in with some of my favorites.


  1. Equipment Cabinets as tall, wide and deep as possible.
  • Floor space is finite. You can't (easily) make the equipment room bigger. So use all of the vertical space that is available to you.
  • Devices & equipment keeps squeezing more capabilities into the same 1U and 2U form factors, often at the expense of additional equipment depth.
  • 900 and 1000mm deep cabinets are just not cutting it anymore. Standardize on 1200mm depth, or you'll regret it soon.
  • I like this PDF from APC here as it provides a clear illustration of the problems encountered when you are forced to install a deep device in a shallow cabinet. Ignore the concept that maybe you don't use Cisco UCS servers. Someday somebody is going to buy a device as deep as that UCS enclosure and want to mount it in one of your cabinets.
  1. Air Flow, Air Flow, AIR FLOW !!!
  • Hot Aisles and Cold Aisles.
  • Where will the hot air go?
  • Where is the cold air coming from?
  • If this is a small, 6 cabinet environment, having a big assed 36" industrial fan in the room for just-in-case is a brilliant investment.
  1. I don't want 110V power in the server environment. Everything in the cabinets is 220V.
  • We deliver 2 or 4 x L6-30R connections to each cabinet.
  • My initial response to a request for 110V power in a cabinet will be very negative, bordering on hostile.
  • Anything that is 110V-only isn't data center grade. Go find a better product and come back with a new request.
  • Yes, I will eventually cave in and meet the needs of the business.
  1. Yes, I fully agree with having a permanent stash of consumables in the facility (if this is a private facility).
  • 1" or 3/4" velcro by the roll.
  • 12" medium-duty zip-ties.
  • Label Printer and a cable labeling solution.
  • Flashlight, multi-bit screwdriver, Cage Nut tool. In a larger facility I want an electric screwdriver, but small & light not big and powerful Like This, NOT Like This
  • Patch cables, Fiber jumpers, SFP/SFP+ optics
  • I don't want a Co-Lo provider to provide these things for free. Such a service will be abused and the costs of that abuse will be passed forward to us.
  • I love seeing a credit-card enabled vending machine outside of the data center floor with these things in it. I'll put a $10 15' CAT6 patch cord on my AmEx in a heartbeat if it saves me from having to sign out of the facility and crawl into my car because I'm one cable short.


    ...


    I had more thoughts, but I've lost them...

u/derek2002 Ā· 1 pointr/Tools

While I can't provide any input on the products you have listed, I picked up a bosch 12v pocket driver at a pawn shop a few years ago. I can't say enough good things about it. Even tho it was used I have never had a single problem out of it or the drill and impact it came with for that matter. Very strong with 2 different speeds. Batteries charge quick. Feels great in the hand. A fine tool worthy or consideration for sure. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003BEE12U?cache=7b30bc03ac566f4bc333a8334bd29bb2&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1414192396&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

u/noeinan Ā· 3 pointsr/MachineKnitting

I've been using a look to know for a while, but as my health has declined it's gotten a bit difficult to keep up-- plus my looms never made a tight enough knit for my tastes.

So I did some research and found a good, entry level circular knitting machine that wasn't too expensive and I love it! Now I can make a good length scarf in only 3hrs.

I had an idea about making it electric-- lots of folks have set up a power drill and use it for turning the crank. Since it's not the more expensive Addi Express, unfortunately there aren't really custom attachments, so instead I'm using Sugru to attach a spare drill bit I found.

Then I want to hook it up with a foot pedal, and maybe I can work on 3-4 at once!

I also use a row counter, but I think I need a stronger magnet for it to not miss rows.

Product links:

D&D Professional 40 Needles Knitting Machine Weaving Loom Kit includes Yarn Needles Accessories for Adults/ Kids https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YSTN8Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x6SCCbCC2S4MV

Electronic Counter, DROK LCD Digital Tally Counter 0-99999 Forward People Door Counter Panel 5 Digits Shockproof Retail Traffic Punch Tester Totalizer Gauge Magnetic Induction Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0153409CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_j.SCCb8XKJDEW

DCT Foot Operated Pedal Controller On/Off Power Supply Switch 115V 15A 2 Step Control Style Woodworking Machine Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MH2NCT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C.SCCbVJS6QYY

BLACK+DECKER DR260C 5.5 Amp 3/8'' Drill/Driver. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T.SCCbPP035AX

Sugru Moldable Glue - Original Formula - White 8-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WW8KIQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9.SCCbGCDH137

u/balathustrius Ā· 2 pointsr/mead

> I just got back into brewing after having not brewed since the 90s

I think things might be a little different now in terms of availability of supplies. Here's my input.

Opinion: Adjustments with acid flavorings are typically better done right before bottling. They don't change the pH too much,

I wouldn't use Fermaid-K for rehydration. IIRC, DAP is toxic at high enough concentrations. (F-K contains DAP.)

Opinion: Boiling the must isn't necessary. Fact: It's fallen out of favor among certain top meadmakers. No-heat is extremely viable for mead. Even when I make a mead with tea, I make the tea first, then let it cool to room temperature before mixing it with honey. It takes some muscle to mix it up well enough, unless you have a drill with a stirring attachment, in which case it takes about 30 seconds to get the mead fully mixed and completely aerated.

Opinion: You're making plum melomel. More plums! A plum mead would be really good with a little leftover sweetness.

u/Bardhyll Ā· 1 pointr/DIY

You may want to consider the Black & Decker Matrix set. I have had it for about 2 years and use it for pretty much everything. The best part is you can get the other attachments (jig saw, router, sander, circular saw, etc.) for about $30 each. I've built a deck, a laundry, and a salon room using it. The 20v Max battery delivers great power and lasts a while, but the charger that comes with it is shit (only .5mAh and takes hours to charge), although they have one that claims to get you 80% in 20 min. Overall I've been very happy with this set and don't hesitate recommending it for anyone who will be a casual user.
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDCDMT120-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B009VK6G8U

Also Sears has a craftsman version of that's called snap on, I think. I believe they are interchangeable with the matrix attachments as well.

u/kindall Ā· 10 pointsr/BuyItForLife

If you are looking for a truly BIFL cordless screwdriver, I highly recommend Hitachi's. Yes, they make tools. Yes, they are good. It comes with two lithium ion batteries and an external charger so you can always have a fresh battery, and the charge lasts a long time. It has a lot of power coupled with the invaluable feature of an adjustable clutch, to help you avoid stripping the heads of your screws. I have had mine for at least five years, use it a fair bit around the house, and it still works perfectly. I see they have a new model now but it looks to be even better than the one I have.

u/Businfu Ā· 1 pointr/Warhammer

Well actually... probably not, at least with my experience using a dremel. My little hand drill works so well because itā€™s got really great precision on the RPM control just by being really careful with the trigger. I can get great real-time speed control, which is pretty critical. Maybe thereā€™s some other dremel or accessory that I havenā€™t seen, but in my dremel the speed can only be adjusted with a clunky wheel, and even then, the slowest RPM is too fast. Also, youā€™d need to get some sort of annoying adapter to actual fit a small enough bit into a dremel...

I really only use the dremel for ā€˜carvingā€™ type things... itā€™s just not delicate enough

EDIT: I think that This is the drill I have. It's honestly fantastic.

u/shiftdown Ā· 62 pointsr/AskMenOver30

I really love these bedsheets found on amazon.

Dewalt cordless drills are on sale right now.

I've had these dress belts for a couple years and really like them.

This is the best thermos I've ever had. Use it daily.

u/EGOtyst Ā· 1 pointr/DIY

So. That holder doesn't seem to be the right one for that shower head.

How nice are you wanting this to look vs. the level of function vs. cost and effort you want to put in?

If you want FUNCTIONAL only... I would recommend a big-ass carabiner and some good 2-part epoxy for metal. put the carabiner on that hangar with the epoxy and let that operate as your holder from now one.

  • Pros: It works. You don't have to dick with removing the current hangar and trying to find a new one.

  • Cons: It will look kinda like ass.

    Alternative 2: Find a new showerhead mount. Look at the measurements of the products vs. those of the handle on your showerhead. Make sure it fits. Follow the instructions to mount it. TAKE SPECIAL CARE that you either use drywall anchors (which should probably come with the device), or drill it directly into a stud.


    Shower Curtain: This is a bit more difficult, because of the positioning of the window and the sink. I would recommend mounting your shower curtain from the ceiling using these. Again, use the mounting instructions that come with them. And for god's sake, when mounting into the ceiling, use drywall anchors. Past that, just get a rod and curtain.


    Tools needed for this endeavor include: Small batter operated drill/screwdriver. They are all over amazon for <$50. In fact, if you are TRULY a beginner, here is a cool little set for you. You aren't going to be building any houses with it, but it has some basics you will need around the house. If any of these break, that shows you that you use it enough to warrant something more expensive.
u/eosha Ā· 2 pointsr/Construction

Different motor technology = more efficient and longer lasting. More expensive, however.

I've got the Milwaukee M12 tools (their "lightweight" line). Does it have the whoopee of my 18v DeWalt XRP tools? No. But it's got more than enough for all the DIY stuff I've done, including some jobs that most people would say required heavier tools, such as deck building and concrete drilling. Just yesterday I drilled some 6" deep, 1/2" dia. holes in concrete with my M12 hammer drill. I had a Bosch Bulldog hammer drill sitting 15 feet away, and I didn't even bother to get it because the little M12 worked just fine; a bit slower, obviously, but better control.

In short, I'm a fan. The FUEL M12s are better yet.

u/squarebore Ā· 1 pointr/rccars

I don't think you'll find anything decent in that micro size. Most of the good ones are 1/4" hex drive.

I've tried the Dewalt 12V, the Hitachi 3.6V, and the Makita 12V.

The Makita was my favorite and that's the one I kept. Most people in R/C like the Hitachi the best because the clutch has a slightly lower setting than the other 2. My Hitachi arrived with a defective power switch, so I returned it. I like the more traditional gun style of the Dewalt and the Makita, which also have the variable speed trigger. The Hitachi was just too long and cumbersome.

The Makita has a 2-speed gearbox and a better (lighter) clutch than the Dewalt. That's why I kept the Makita.

u/johnsbury Ā· 1 pointr/Skookum

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BEE2LU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

You can buy this right now on Amazon for $79usd.
I absolutely love this drill. Mine came with the charger and an extra battery. The battery life is incredible! It's been ready to go every time I've reached for it. It has a battery life indicator in the form of 3 green leds that count down the battery so you can easily see when its getting low. It feels great in your hand. Plenty of heft but compact in size. Its the last drill I know I'll ever have to buy. It's built like a tank. Last week I was using it and I could see that I was on one led of power left. I knew I had fully charged the backup battery and put it in the case with the charger like 2 years ago. Slapped it in and it was fully lit ready to rock. Put the other one in the charger and it was done in less than an hour. I've had plenty of cordless drills in my lifetime and the most frustrating thing with them for me has always been needing it infrequently and always finding it needing a charge. That will never be the case with this drill.

u/E580BAEDA44A Ā· 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Do you plan on using drill bits more often, or driving fasteners more often?

If you are fastening, get an Impact Driver:

https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF885C1-20V-Impact-Driver/dp/B01LBT3AZU?sa-no-redirect=1

If you are going to be drilling more often, you could get a cheap corded drill, or either of the drill drivers you linked.

I find that even the hardest drilling tasks, a cheap HF drill works fine. It's going to be as good as the drill bit, basically... But fastening takes a quality tool, and it'll depend on the strength of the anvil as well.

That Impact that I linked hits very hard, and it's an amazing tool.

u/petrek Ā· 2 pointsr/BestOfHomeDeals

I haven't used it, but the Drill/Driver alone (not the 3 piece kit) is $59.97 at Amazon and has 4.5 Stars on 243 Reviews, so it seems to be a well respected tool. I wouldn't think it's good for commercial use, but certainly a good tool for around the house.

u/rseymour Ā· 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

File this under life pro tip more than buy it for life... This $20 cordless AA battery powered drill can drill small holes, screw things in, etc. All I need for an apartment. It uses proprietary bits and is built like a toy, but compared to buying a $100+ unit with batteries that eventually die off...

I was looking around for a cool hand drill that was bifl when my gf got on my case about ... you know... actually putting up the drapes instead of shopping for drills... so I got this and it's a really good bottom of the barrel thing. Far better than the faux heavy duty 7.2 V etc drills out there.

Link: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-AD600-Accessory-Assortment/dp/B000077CPQ

u/i7-4790Que Ā· 2 pointsr/Tools

Bosch 12V is probably a better bet if you really want a smaller/lighter drill & cylindrical batteries.

might want to look into a cordless screwdriver as well. Because you get the clutch of a drill, and the chuck of an impact driver.

or get the best of both + more

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-GSR12V-140FCB22-Flexiclick-Driver-System/dp/B074GYX6XG

u/9926alden Ā· 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Damn, make sure you clean that out regularly. People have burnt their house down.

Go get this:

Bosch Power Tools Rotary Tool - 11255VSR Bulldog Xtreme Rotary Hammer Drills For Concrete ā€“ Use For Overhead Drilling, Demolition, Anchoring ā€“ Corded Hammer Drill For Crew, Contractor, Construction https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BB79Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F9sUCb5ANYAV7

And this:

Starrett KD0414-N 4.1/4-Inch Diamond Grit Holesaw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CD1V8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l8sUCbT69WR45

And this:

7/16ā€ Hex Shank Hole Saw Arbor, Fits 1-1/4ā€ to 6ā€ Hole Saw Quick Change Heavy Duty Alloy-Steel Mandrel with 3 BONUS 1/4ā€ Precision Drill Bits Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DN9SKTD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D.sUCb01DPGAB


Make sure you back off on the drill and let it do the work and donā€™t let the big overheat.

u/dinst Ā· 1 pointr/Tools

Holes saws are great and have their place, but the impact/ spade bit combo seem to be the ticket for 90% of my uses. Also, I didn't bother to look up what drill you have before, but now I see it's a newer dewalt. Get an impact driver, the difference is night and day. And if you don't have a spare battery, it's super convenient to not have to wait for a recharge while working. Bare tool $70 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ML7GDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1484804561&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+driver&dpPl=1&dpID=415uG8%2BV3dL&ref=plSrch

Or with battery $100

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LBT3AZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484804561&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+driver&dpPl=1&dpID=51oJlJzJjIL&ref=plSrch

u/Moose_Oscar Ā· 1 pointr/IceFishing

I have a 6" Eskimo auger. It works great, just keep the blades sharp and covered if not in use. My Eskimo auger is attached to a DeWalt heavy-duty brush-less drill. I can drill countless holes through twelve inches plus of ice in about ten seconds. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCD985B-20-Volt-Lithium-2-Inch/dp/B007ML7EVI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1541702599&sr=8-9&keywords=dewalt+hammer+drill+20v+brushless

Most guys use a Milwaukee Fuel drill, but I like having the compatibility with other DeWalt tools. Look on Craigslist for a used ice auger and have the blades sharpened or replaced. Bought mine for $20 and I happen to live down the street from one of the two places that sharpens auger blades in Michigan (Angler's Pointe). If you need auger blades sharpened in the future you may mail them to me and I'll mail them back once sharpened. Costs $5-10. Message me if your interested.

u/RoadSurfer Ā· 1 pointr/StonerEngineering

That looks more like an electric screw driver in a drills form factor.

You might get better results with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Decker-DR260C-5-2-Amp-Driver-8-Inch/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1478633522&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A9060578011

I don't own this unit so cannot recommend - just saying a corded drill will probably work better.

u/wheelswaps Ā· 1 pointr/HotWheels

This is the drill I use.

It's a monstrous 8V and it works perfectly, in fact I like that it's slow so I can control it better.

u/ferengiprophet Ā· 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Looks good but it costs a little bit more than I'd like (especially for this project). Do you think this is good?

u/FrankyFe Ā· 5 pointsr/Tools

Yes, Allen/hex keys are retarded to use. You can use a powered screwdriver and a nice one is this:

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS21-2A-2-Speed-Batteries-Charger/dp/B003BEE12U

Add bits, start with the little 1" ones that you use a holder with:

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-16061-61-Piece-Bit/dp/B002YKBDO6

Get a bit ratchet for real tight spots:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6

Also a tip: with particle board furniture like Ikea's, use a bit of wood glue in the screw hole and on the screw before insertion. It makes it go in easier ;) and also keeps the particles from breaking apart. It doesn't form a permanent bond so disassembly is still easy.

u/bobadafett Ā· 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

No, these are not design for that type of work.. This is a powered screwdriver.. made for making quick work of installing outlets or working with machine screws.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-DR260C-5-2-Amp-Driver/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1454109673&sr=1-3&keywords=corded+drill

There, same price and will do the job.

Also, please be careful when drilling into walls, make sure you are hitting the stud using a good stud finer.. even a strong magnet will do. Be careful of electrical wires, data runs and plumbing drains\vents.

What are you looking do to exactly, hang a picture? Mount a T.V?

u/Headsupmontclair Ā· 1 pointr/Homebrewing

[mix-stir tool] (https://www.amazon.com/Northern-Brewer-GK-FZ2V-0QIS-Stainless-Mix-Stir/dp/B0064OG79E) you can find them cheaper, or make one.

they are good for aeration, and also for cooling the wort too (once you are under 120F or else you risk melting the plastic fins)...you can mix the wort so hard that it will create a whirlpool and you will see the bottom of your kettle if you get the angle right. very powerful.

i also use the mix-stir tool for when i add oxyclean to a vessel and want to stir it into the water without clumping. the mix-stir will make the best lather in a few sections, with no left behind oxyclean graduals

u/BeatMastaD Ā· 1 pointr/bugin

You can get a relatively cheap tool kit like this (can't vouch for this kit, just an example) and it is easy to store and has most of what you might need for most small projects.

Along with that I would say that a drill (I have this one, it's great) with a bit set. With those things you can probably do most of what you would need in a home.

You can also get saws and stuff but those are less necessary unless you are trying to get into home improvement and renovation type stuff. The drill and tool kit will do you fine for typical home repair and such.

u/nut573 Ā· 1 pointr/MouseReview

Not many have ever worked with a g pro wired pcb, but if you need to make the the pcb smaller, you can trim parts of it (I like to use hand nibblers) or cut parts off entirely and jump them with wires.

​

Also if you're not on there already, join /r/mousereview discord, the modding channel is pretty active.

u/81supporter Ā· 2 pointsr/Tools

I like my Bosch stuff. I didn't buy it as a kit, but I own the tools included in the CLPK224-181 kit.

I make my living as an Apprentice Electrician and I think this stuff is overkill for home use.

At work, the only time I use my drill is when I'm running unibits. Any other time, I use either my impact or my 12v drill.

Link to 18v: Bosch CLPK224-181 18-volt Lithium-Ion 2-Tool Combo Kit with 1/2-Inch Hammer Drill/Driver, Impact Driver, 2 Batteries, Charger and Contractor Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OKGAIUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ODh6BbWEAA6B4

Most of the drilling I do at work is into sheetmetal. My 12V does just fine.

Here is a 12V kit that meets your specs: Bosch 12-Volt Max Lithium-Ion 2-Tool Cordless Combo Kit CLPK241-120 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009K1HMBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oRh6BbPY6GA4F

They also make a 12V tool with changeable heads: Bosch GSR12V-140FCB22 12V Max Flexiclick 5-In-1 Drill/Driver System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GYX6XG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B0h6BbA79AQ2A

That drill will fit in places the others won't.

I own and use a PS21 at work every day. With the 4.0ah battery, it goes a long time on a charge. I mostly use it to drive screws, with a good amount of up to 1/4" holes in sheetmetal electrical boxes.

u/AlicSkywalker Ā· 5 pointsr/buildapc

Yes, this is a much cheaper option, just need some labour hour:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I33UG8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_vN.pzbPA9WWVN

This'll probably work too: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KL4UI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_6O.pzbMNCAMXZ

To save some time, this will do the trick nice and fast: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LBT3AZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_YQ.pzb7E4XC6F

u/walk_the_line Ā· 2 pointsr/DealsReddit

Not bad, I wonder how it compares to this drill: http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DC970K-2-18-Volt-Drill-Driver/dp/B002RLR0EY/

I guess you get an extra box, but it seems like the dewalt gets better reviews, is 1/2" instead of 3/8", and is nearly the same price.

u/greenlakejohnny Ā· 1 pointr/networking

+1 for Dewalt. I've got both the 12v and 20v versions and also the Impact drills. You can get pretty good deals the larger kit you buy.

I also like my Hitachi DB3DL2 which is more agile but less powerful.

u/calley479 Ā· 1 pointr/techsupportgore

Don't use a Dremmel with the mb still there.

Get a nibbler... I've modded many cases with one similar to that. Nothing fancy, usually just making room for a replacement PSU.

Doesn't leave any debris and makes nice clean lines. Most of the cases i worked on looked like they were made that way afterwards.

u/woodbycolin Ā· 2 pointsr/turning

Well, I never did find the electric, angled, 2" random orbital sander on Amazon. I did find these right angle drills though. A few of the reviews are from bowl turners.
Gino: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00339OU4W/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3341940462&pd_rd_wg=oBi4x&pf_rd_r=ENN5XTK29NAHT4K24BFR&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00339OU4W&pd_rd_w=QhdDm&pf_rd_i=angle+drill&pd_rd_r=7eca9f4e-76c1-40f3-8d48-8ce5e8541ec9&ie=UTF8&qid=1519856451&sr=1#customerReviews
Neiko: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XUHA8C/ref=psdc_9022404011_t1_B00339OU4W

And there are a couple different ones at HF if you type "angle drill" in their search box.

A normal drill works. But perhaps the right angle style has better ergonomics, and a grip that is closer to your work. If I ever do find the one I was thinking of I'll be sure to post up.

u/[deleted] Ā· 2 pointsr/DIY

I definitely wouldn't go cordless for this job. Popular Mechanics had a review of corded hammer drills a little while back.

If you're going to be doing this a lot, I would recommend getting a rotary hammer and not a hammer drill. I would recommend the Bosch Bulldog for the job.

u/iTzGavin96 Ā· 6 pointsr/gundeals

You can complete a polymer 80 with a file from walmart for like $6 and a power drill. Polymer 80's come with the drill bits you need. I did not use a dremel for my p80. While a vice might not be required, it would certainly help to hold everything steady. You could probably complete this with a 20$ black and decker drill too.

u/dangeralert Ā· 3 pointsr/BeginnerWoodWorking

I bought this drill set on Amazon and ended up breaking 2 pilot bits so had to buy more lol. Also I bought this saw and these clamps. Let me know if you have any questions and we can try to figure this out together!

Best advice I can give is to buy things as you need them. I added a bunch of stuff to my Amazon wish list (jigsaw, reciprocating saw, orbital sander, router, etc) and it really adds up, but I'm going to take it one step at a time so I don't blow my entire paycheck on tools.

u/SweetMamaKaty Ā· 1 pointr/DIY

My husband just got this one. He was very choosy, wanted it to be 1/2", cordless, keyless, variable speed, a certain amount of power, good brand, etc. - on the same budget. :) He never likes B&D.

u/srsbzz Ā· 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

Black & Decker BDCDMT120 20-Volt MAX Lithium-Ion Matrix Cordless Drill https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VK6G8U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_dg05xb5WQNMNQ

BLACK+DECKER BDCMTTS Matrix Trim Saw Attachment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009V5C616/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Kg05xb7XA6NXC

Best tool I've ever bought

u/morgantm Ā· 1 pointr/Tools

This is kind of pricey but super handy for those situations

DEWALT DWARAFS Right Angle Flex Shaft, 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013UBXU3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dPGNzbCPZRX8N

u/MonkeyWithAPun Ā· 2 pointsr/TVRepair

Will these be flat TVs, or CRTs?

I only worked on flat screens, my kit:
0, 1, 2 Philips screwdrivers, 5/16" and 1/8" flat screwdrivers, A small 1/4" drive socket set with standard and metric sizes, Nylon spudgers (these are great tools for all sorts of things, buy them by the dozen), A small crescent wrench, Torx drivers T-5 to T-30 (security), Metric and standard hex key sets, Needle nose pliers, Locking hemostat or forceps, 5mm nut driver (for VGA screws)

A small rechargable torque limited driver also makes life WAY easier. I used this one: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS21-2A-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Batteries/dp/B003BEE12U/

u/SpacemanFrank Ā· 1 pointr/FTC

What type of budget does your team have?

How much space is available as your work area?

How experienced at building robots are the mentors?

What build system does you team intend to use? How many custom parts do y'all want to make?

What level of CAD skills does the team have?

We need to know these things to give valid advice. If your team has $100 to spend on tools the list is really different than if your team has $500. If your team has ~$4000 and really experienced mentors the list is also totally different.

​

Let's assume your team has really limited budget and wants to make the most of it. I will also assume you are using the REV system.

Here is my minimum tool list:
5.5 mm Nut Driver - http://www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1119/

5.5 mm wrench - http://www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1374/

Allen wrench set - https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Hex-Allen-Wrench-Ball/dp/B0776C2D6H/

Rotary Cutter - https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8

Hand drill - https://smile.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-DR260C-Drill-Driver/dp/B00T2VJ93C/

Hack saw - https://smile.amazon.com/Tactix-267031-Adjustable-Hacksaw-Frame/dp/B00ABBUU2Q/
Bench Vice - https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-453BV-3-Inch-Heavy-Swivel/dp/B07KKXQQ3S

Metric Drill bit set - https://smile.amazon.com/Drill-Warehouse-99pcs-1-5mm-Titanium/dp/B01NC25BRK

Pliers set - https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Tools-4-Piece-Pliers-Set/dp/B015X2NHOK


That works out to be ~$110 + shipping and tax. These are the bare minimum tools IMO. If you can answer the questions above I can give you some better advice.

- Frank

u/billydreamer Ā· 1 pointr/turning

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-8-Inch-55-Degree-Quarters-Right-Angle/dp/B000XUHA8C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418839114&sr=8-2&keywords=angle+drill

this angle drill is widely used by turners for all grits + buffing. They're inexpensive, they don't last forever, they are much better than hand sanding.

u/digifork Ā· 6 pointsr/specializedtools

I use this flexible shaft bit. You are not going to use it to drill through bricks, but I found it extremely useful when drilling holes to install blinds.

u/Bagelninja Ā· 1 pointr/DIY

I'll second the sentiment on size and weight. If all you are doing is putting stuff in walls then 18 volt is over kill. I'm not a big dewalt fan, I have some of their stuff but my go to brands tend to be makita and then Bosch (with a recent liking of porter cable and Milwaukee). For what you are doing anything from a major brand in the 12 to 18 volt range is going to be fine. You might want to go to a hardware store and hold a couple to get a feel for them and judge the weight. In the 100 range, there really isn't a lot of difference. The other thing to consider is batteries, look for a kit with two if you can. Its always nice to know you have a charged spare.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS31-2A-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Batteries/dp/B003BEE2LU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369011960&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+12v+drill

u/dagaboy Ā· 1 pointr/ToobAmps

I remember you. A man after my own heart. You can also use a cheap nibbler to make any cutouts you need. But I generally avoid them and use standup transformers and hard mounted power cords with strain relief.

u/shady_mcgee Ā· 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

I've got this one and absolutely love it. Comes with two batteries and enough torque to drill/screw everything I've needed it for so far.

u/EngineeredMadness Ā· 1 pointr/Homebrewing

IMHO considering something like this will be used on every batch, I wouldn't hesitate to spend a little more on something I knew was made from the correct materials.

When you say whirlpool paddle, are you attempting to oxygenate or are you just trying to gather trub in the center of the kettle? If attempting to oxygenate, might as well just get a wine whip, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Northern-Brewer-GK-FZ2V-0QIS-Stainless-Mix-Stir/dp/B0064OG79E/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=wine+degasser&qid=1568906877&s=gateway&sr=8-7 . Otherwise you can always use a spoon to stir the pot as it's cooling; the upgrade there is usually a pump system.

u/yevinorion Ā· 8 pointsr/Tools

Man I know the budget is limited, but Ni Cad is not the way to go!

You have a few options around that price. I would stick to a decent brand (DeWalt, Bosch, Milwaukee, Makita) and maybe look at a 12V to stay in that $100 range. Although maybe you can find a Black Friday deal on an 18V, but a 12V should be enough to get started and do basic DYI stuff around the house.

Here are a few options:

Bosch 12V Drill

DeWalt 20VMax Brushed or Brushless for about $20 more

Makita 12V Drill and Impact Driver Combo

Makita 18V Hammer Drill

Also Amazon is having a special on Makita, DeWalt and Bosch tools where any tool $100 or more gets $25 off.

u/gatorb888 Ā· 3 pointsr/Tools

Brushless gets you more run time, it's basically more fuel efficient. Just using around the house, you probably don't need brushless. The 790 also comes with 2.0 amp hour batteries (more capacity than the 1.5 Amp Hour 780 batteries).

There is also a lower price point drill (DCD771C2) that is brushed and comes with 1.3 amp hour batteries if you are looking to save money. it typically is on sale on black friday around $99. It's a little larger than the 780 and 790 and not as ergonomic http://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DCD771C2-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Compact/dp/B00ET5VMTU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413911751&sr=8-2&keywords=DCD780c2

u/audigex Ā· 2 pointsr/Tools

I'd 100% agree with the other answer here that a drill isn't the right tool for the job.

An impact driver, despite being called a "driver" is also much better than a drill for removing bolts too, with much more torque - they're not just for construction. The only reason I'd go for a drill over an impact driver is if you also do a lot of drilling that the B&D can't keep up with, although I'd note that you can get drill bits for an impact driver too.

This DeWalt is the same price as the drill above, with 3x more torque

u/AnnaPea Ā· 14 pointsr/femalefashionadvice

DeWalt power drill with bit set and angle adaptor. Perfect set for someone newly living on their own or for someone who just doesn't have their own power drill. The angle adaptor is particularly handy.

u/BillDaCatt Ā· 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I use a nibbling tool for stuff like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Nickel-Plated-Nibbling/dp/B0002KRACO/

To use it, mark the outline of the cut, drill a hole slightly bigger than the square cutter head, then insert the tool in the hole and nibble up to your line. With just a little practice, you can make perfect square and rectangular holes.

u/LouDiamond Ā· 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I have this DeWalt and it works great for the price....

u/Anylite Ā· 3 pointsr/turning

I have had good luck with the Neiko Close quarter drill .

One word of advise, those sanding pads tend to heat up and melt the Velcro on the back, making them useless after that (learned the hard way). So take it slow and let it cool often.

u/grahad Ā· 1 pointr/electricians

I use the Hitachi DB3DL2 3.6 Volt Lithium Ion Dual-Position Cordless Screwdriver for any non drilling application.

The interchangeable battery, variable speed, and a torque that has a much lower range than a drill is great. I have been using it for years for IT work, maybe it will work for electricians as well.

u/PhilipTheDeacan Ā· 4 pointsr/Tools

DEWALT DCD771C2 20V MAX Lithium-Ion Compact Drill/Driver Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ET5VMTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5qHqxbXAT6C30

Could check local hardware stores as well they sometimes have deals on dewalt or Milwaukee power tools. Those are the brands I tend to stick with, not saying others aren't good but they're tried and true for me.

u/distantreplay Ā· 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Here's my list:
-Good sidewinder with electric brake https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RQ68V2/ref=psdc_552922_t2_B000N5SVEY Cast alloy foot is stiffer and less willing to bend when you drop it, beefy knobs permit easier and more accurate adjustment, brake prevents you from setting it down on the cord while the blade is still spinning.
-12 volt compact cordless https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS31-2A-Lithium-Ion-Batteries-Carrying/dp/B003BEE2LU
-Folding sawhorse/bench https://www.amazon.com/Target-Precision-RB-H1034-Sawhorse-Complete/dp/B00005A1KE
Total: $850

u/Sam_the_Engineer Ā· 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

My wife kept complaining when I would bring my 18V Porter Cable tool kit upstairs and track saw dust and metal chips all through the house when drilling out holes in my 3D printed parts in my office. Tonight after work I was browsing around Lowes while waiting for traffic to clear up when I came across this 8-volt Black & Decker drill that charges via micro USB. The thing lacks any meaningful power, so I donā€™t think it would be capable of completing many tasks beyond drilling out holes and screwing fasteners into the parts I print.
Additionally, it only has 1 speed (400 RPM) which will probably be troublesome when drilling out holes in small parts, or holes with small edge margins.

Overall, I thought it was a nifty low-cost ($25) gadget that may be something you all would also be interested in.

u/StormBeforeDawn Ā· 1 pointr/mead

The difference between good mead recipes and bad mead recipes is basically just nutrition. You take a gravity reading and adjust nutrition from there, or you target a OG in the first place. Nutrition is covered pretty extensively on the wiki, if you go and poke at it and don't understand I'll help you with whatever you need.

The ones that collapse really just degas, they don't aerate that great and they are kind of expensive, but they are better than trying to shake a carboy for sure

https://www.amazon.com/Northern-Brewer-GK-FZ2V-0QIS-Stainless-Mix-Stir/dp/B0064OG79E/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1CT39XMP9GDQ4&keywords=wine+stirring+wand&qid=1574100177&sprefix=wine+stir%2Cindustrial%2C194&sr=8-6

u/MrKaboomCult Ā· 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

If you only plan on using it occasionally I'd go with a black and decker, I bought one (https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-LDX120C-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B005NNF0YU) a year ago and it's perfect general homeowner use.

u/OddJackdaw Ā· 5 pointsr/ThingsCutInHalfPorn

You're getting downvoted, but you are probably right. The batteries that were most commonly marketed as 18V were substantially heavier.

The difference is the battery tech: The 18V one would be NiCad, the 20V one is LiPo. LiPo's have much greater power density, so they use a smaller battery to get the same capacity. The also hold a charge considerably longer between uses and don't have the issues with memory.

You could also get a heavier battery by increasing capacity (more use between charges). That's probably not the case here since they would likely both be 20V if they were LiPos, but it's possible.

Edit: Err... LiIon, not LiPo.

u/Level41821 Ā· 2 pointsr/mead

>Pumping air into it via a turkey baster

that visual just made me giggle.

it all depends on how much head room, and what container you have.

Shaking could give you a geyser, adding air via a turkey baster wouldn't likely do anything, but you could use it to stir slowly for a bit.

If your in a bucket and have good headspace, you could hook this up to a drill and give it a few spins mid bucket.

​

edit: wasn't done... hit save to soon.

u/ComeOnYouApes Ā· 1 pointr/DIY

Dewalt makes two attachments you could look at.

This is their impact driver rated right angle attachment. I use mine fairly often on the job, and it's held up to hard use, including running 1" spade bits with my impact driver. It's not something I use often but it can really get you out of a jamb.

They also make this flex shaft one, but I don't own one so can't personally comment on its toughness. It looks lighter duty but it would fit into even tighter or awkward spots.

u/ZippyTheChicken Ā· 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

might as well go for the whole drill

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10529A-Quarter-55-Degree-Variable/dp/B000XUHA8C/

I got one for less than that at biglots but biglots isn't what it use to be.. but they work well

u/tigerplush Ā· 1 pointr/DIY

Hello, complete noob looking for advice, i am looking up put some screws into my cement ceiling to install a curtain pole. Im on the fence looking to buy a power drill. I saw this product on amazon, its called Dewalts Dcd771c2 20v Anyone know if this product will be strong enough to get the job done?

u/notfromvenus42 Ā· 2 pointsr/DIY

Oh, I searched tool set on Amazon, this has a cordless electric drill with a bunch of attachments, and a hammer and screwdriver and multiple pliers and a basic ratchet set and measuring tape and a case and a utility knife which I forgot to mention for $80: https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-LDX120PK-Cordless-Battery/dp/B00C625KVE/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=tool+set&qid=1562682580&s=gateway&sprefix=tool+&sr=8-6

u/kelpyturtles Ā· 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I think itā€™s around $50 per day at a Home Depot near me, Iā€™m in Canada though. FWIW, a DeWalt drill like this one (DCD985) has a hammer drill mode but can also be used for wood, metal, etc. - just use a masonry bit when youā€™re on hammer drill mode and going into concrete. Other power tool manufacturers likely have similar tools, so if you were planning on making the investment anyhow it might be worth it.

u/Fluffybutters Ā· 1 pointr/lockpicking

You might want to try something like like this. The more someone tries to pull up the tighter its supposed to wedge. If they want it bad enough they will get it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYIqoxsjsNE I would talk to someone who does concrete since you will need a hammer drill. A drill with regular bits will not work. You will just ruin the bits and waste your time. If you have a cordless drill/ hammer drill like this https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCD985B-20-Volt-Lithium-2-Inch/dp/B007ML7EVI/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1518417647&sr=1-2&keywords=dewalt+hammer+drill you could to it yourself. Those drills take forever compared to an sds or sds max hammer drill. They also don't like bits over 1/2". They will work but the motor gets frakn hot. If you know someone with something like this https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D25263K-D-Handle-Rotary-Hammer/dp/B00VNBV2F2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518417765&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt+hammer+drill+sds or this https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D25601K-4-Inch-Combination-Hammer/dp/B00MAB8DHY/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518417765&sr=1-5&keywords=dewalt+hammer+drill+sds your golden.

u/ReaperNull Ā· 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I've been using this one for about a year. It's a good, reliable drill.

u/cromag5150 Ā· 4 pointsr/Luthier

Stew Mac's tang nippers are really just a slightly modified hand nibbler tool with an astronomical markup. The older model was a modified Klein #760113 nibbler with a half moon groove for the fretwire cut out just before the blade. Klein discontinued that tool which is why stew mac is switching models. There are still a few places that still have some stock. Here is one.

http://planetools.com/products/76011b-klein-tools-sheet-metal-nibbler.

You can file your own groove in the Klein with a good set of needle files and some patience. I'll emphisise the word patience here because the deck is hardened steel.

Allparts has a set of nippers stock. If you have an account they are half of retail. ($70 vs $140).

https://www.allparts.com/LT-4246-000-Fret-Tang-Nipper_p_2217.html

You can also modify the cheapie nibblers off Amazon but longevity might be an issue.

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Life-360-022-Nickel-Nibbling/dp/B0002KRACO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1521051617&sr=8-4&keywords=nibbler+tool

u/FireReadyAim Ā· 10 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Let's see here.

drill - $89.00

bits - $14.99

grommet kit with punch - $14.99

So your solution costs $118.98

12 binder clips - $4.83

u/CryptoVaper Ā· 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I have a cordless Black & Decker. I like it mainly because I have a leaf blower and hedge trimmer that use the same battery so I have spares when needed.

u/neuromonkey Ā· 1 pointr/gadgets

I recommend this for making them open-backed.

u/new-Baltimoreon Ā· 2 pointsr/mead

I have one like this, that I got from my LHBS

u/culasthewiz Ā· 2 pointsr/succulents

Get yourself a cheap drill like so: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ALnPAb1XJ4REG or check out a second hand/thrift store. They come in handy for all sorts of things.

u/purplepotatoes Ā· 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Corded is fine, but most corded drills are not drill/drivers and don't have a clutch. If you go corded, I'd go for one with a clutch such as this from Ryobi. A standard corded drill would allow you to overtorque your bolts very, very easily and you could end up bending or breaking the furniture.

My two cents, don't get the Hitachi, get a cheap corded/cordless with a standard chuck (not a hex chuck) and a clutch. A cheap black and decker is half the price and will let you use standard drill bits in the future. Cut the 90 degree angle off the hex key and you can just use that as your bit in a standard chuck. Keep the clutch just low enough to tighten the bolts.

u/TheOkieIronhead Ā· 1 pointr/rccars

This bad boy right here.

https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-DB3DL2-Dual-Position-Cordless-Screwdriver/dp/B004Y74AU6

​

If you are trying to complete repairs in a hurry at the track, build a kit without wearing your hands out, or just want to get a lot of work done in less time, this thing is a must. absolutely love this tool.

u/dhc2beaver Ā· 3 pointsr/aviationmaintenance

I use this guy, lots of power, not heavy, not too fat if you are working around stuff, I really like it.

Bosch

Edit: I imagine this would be even lighter, but I've never used it.

u/Nathancampbell43 Ā· 1 pointr/StonerEngineering

No, in order to drill anything you need an actual drill, not a screw driver. Also it looks like in order to hold the hole saws you would need a chuck and the driver doesn't have a chuck because it uses the same size bits for every use.
Edit: Link for cheapest drill I found on amazon that will work.

u/PhysicsDude55 Ā· 2 pointsr/Tools

100% agree. You can get the bosch kit for just a small premium more than the harbor freight kit, and the Bosch is undoubtedly much higher quality.


I personally would splurge for the multi head kit, but that might be a bit too much money for a simple seldom used tool.

u/wickedpixel1221 Ā· 1 pointr/arduino

a nibbler is worth investing in

u/theyre_whores_im_in Ā· -1 pointsr/deals

direct u/callofdoobie spam-bypassing link

Please report this post and user u/callofdoobie for violating the rules for personal profit.

u/Gottria Ā· 1 pointr/buildapc

Hands down the best one for very low torque applications. I use it for work all the time on boards on the lowest setting.
Hitachi DB3DL2 3.6 Volt Lithium Ion Dual-Position Cordless Screwdriver Kit (Lifetime Tool Warranty) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Y74AU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_C0ZMAb9C9BN9D

u/irisgrower Ā· 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Everyone is listing serious work or weekend warrior drills. Don't get me wrong, Tim Taylor's "More Power" mantra is dead on. There is another class of drill, the kind I'll get my daughter when she gets her first apartment. Make sure it's a mix of bad-assery and cute. Accessorize... get a bit and driver set too. Don't overlook that it's the thought that counts. In fact print out the posting and responses.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-AD600-Accessory-Assortment/dp/B000077CPQ/ref=sr_1_11?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1396068851&sr=1-11

u/jayrady Ā· 7 pointsr/IowaCity

Be the change you want to see in the world.


BLACK+DECKER LDX120C 20V MAX Lithium Ion Drill/Driver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NNF0YU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HSyLBb3SQVZRR

u/stagethepoop Ā· 2 pointsr/nintendo

Just slip one of these in your carrying case!

u/JackSauer1 Ā· 12 pointsr/Tools

Get a Bosch Bulldog. They are typically $150-200. I am an electrician and we have one on every truck.
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-11255VSR-SDS-plus-BULLDOG-Xtreme/dp/B000BB79Q6

u/myself248 Ā· 1 pointr/arduino

Bud-boxes, some step drills, and a hand nibbler. Done and done.

u/ArtOfRenaissance2016 Ā· -1 pointsr/The_Donald

Dewalt DCD771C2 20V MAX Cordless Lithium-Ion 1/2 inch Compact Drill Driver Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ET5VMTU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_MDpsyb1JK2N5H

u/Hot_Wheels_guy Ā· 2 pointsr/ThingsCutInHalfPorn

I bought my 20v dewalt kit over the 18v because the batteries weigh half as much.

Edit: American dewalt 18v versus American dewalt 20v.

u/V0RT3XXX Ā· 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

At my house we have a horizontal 2x4 as well and the way we got around it is to make a small hole right above or below the horizontal beam then use a 90 degree drill bit tool thingy and drill a small hole through the beam. Then when you drop the cable from the attic down, one person can look through the dry wall hole and navigate the cable through the hole in the beam.

Edit: this:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARAFS-Right-Angle-Shaft/dp/B013UBXU3E/

Or this:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA100-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B00C0VSNKQ

u/ahenkel Ā· 0 pointsr/buildapc

If you start building PC's for other people, Or if you do already a variable speed cordless screw driver becomes an invaluable tool.

There's lots but this is a good one. http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-DB3DL2-3-6-Volt-4-Inch-Screwdriver/dp/B004Y74AU6

u/madmax_br5 Ā· 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

A good cordless drill should not be skimped on. Cheap versions like ryobi, harbor freight, etc have terrible battery technology, and the things don't make it past a few charge cycles. Buddy of mine bought a ryobi cordless tool set, what a pile of junk. He only did one small shelving install with it and it wouldn't take a full charge.

Things to not skimp on:

u/Jwast Ā· 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Upgrade to an 18v, 20v, or a corded drill. I use 12v makita and bosch drills all day at work and they are pitifully weak on purpose because we hang doors on solid cherry and maple framed cabinets. I also hang doors on solid oak and hickory framed cabinets and those 12v drills sometimes barely have the juice to drive a screw in to those even with pre-drilled holes.

Conversely, if you don't set your chuck appropriately with a 20v drill, you'll either strip your screw hole clean out in wood or hurt your wrist pretty bad when the drill kicks out in metal.

This is the exact model I own and it is a beast. I've had it for about 5-6 years now and love it.

u/wfaulk Ā· 28 pointsr/funny

I've heard a lot of people say that, and I won't deny it. But even as critical as I am of cheap manufacturing in China, I can't afford $270 for a drill when I can get another quality drill for $90. 3x the price just isn't doable, at least for an amateur.

u/Exasperated_Sigh Ā· 2 pointsr/DIY

One thing on the DeWalt products: There's a durability gap between their low end home owner type tool and their professional models. They cheaped out in the last several years on their production but the brushless sets still, as far as I've heard, hold up really well.

Example: This drill is likely to die on you after only moderate use. This drill will last much longer for $40 more.

Personally I run mostly Dewalt 20v tools. Was sold a rigid miter saw by a Milwaukee salesman (he was off duty) and he swore by it. I've loved it and have had 0 problems, plus they run a lifetime warranty on their products. Milwaukee is IMO at the top right now but you also pay for it.

u/armybrate1 Ā· 1 pointr/DIY

I do pest control and termite work. We ONLY use Bosch SDS hammerdrills. We probably drill out around 400 half inch to 3/4 inche holes per house, and try to get at least two jobs in during a normal day. Bosch is rebuildable if there is an issue, and can be had for less than 200 dollars. This is what we use for drilling into foundations (horizontally) we drill 1/2 inch holes through the block, sometimes solid concrete. http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-11255VSR-BULLDOG-SDS-plus-D-Handle/dp/B000BB79Q6/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1377122483&sr=1-1&keywords=bosch+hammer+drill
and this is what we use when we have to downdrill or for big holes (1 1/2 inch wide) or when we use long bits (24 to 36 inches) http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RH328VC-8-Inch-Rotary-Hammer/dp/B003DQO7ES/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1377122483&sr=1-2&keywords=bosch+hammer+drill

u/KingCrustacean Ā· 1 pointr/networking

https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-DB3DL2-Dual-Position-Cordless-Screwdriver/dp/B004Y74AU6/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1496247149&sr=8-14&keywords=powered+screwdriver
has a torque limiter, and has 2 batteries, a case and a charger. I also carry an impact driver for stubborn screw removal and a hammer drill for installing external antennas for outdoor WAPs

u/YouHaveShitTaste Ā· 6 pointsr/aww

It's that cheap for a fucking reason. That's not a "drill" that's an electronic screwdriver. Ain't gonna get shit done with that piece of trash.

If you want light, cordless, and not bulky, but still worth a damn, get shit like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BEE2LU/

u/ThatDidntJustHappen Ā· 87 pointsr/DIY

For this process, I used a Vision Defense 80% Lower Reciever and the Vision Defense jig as, admittedly, they were cheapest options I could find. However, there exist an abundance of different receivers and jigs from different manufacturers. For example, the second lower is from Blitzkrieg Tactical.

Disclaimer: This isn't really meant to be a guide, although you're able to use it as a guide if you wish. I recommend finding a different method to drilling the fire control pocket because, as you can see, mine wasn't the best.

I know you're not supposed to mill with a drill press. They're not made for taking side loads and it's possible to gravely injure yourself doing this, however not likely. Best case, the press breaks. Worst case, the press breaks and kills you. I took that chance and came out with two functioning lowers. Your mileage may vary. If you decide to take on this project, good luck.

Advice:

  • GET A VISE. If not for safety, for how much easier it will make the process. I purchased this one and it made milling the fire control pocket on the second lower much easier, as I could mill straight down into the receiver. For the first, I used just my hands and had a few close calls. Just make sure you get the right size for the table on your press.

  • Keep everything lubed up. For this, I used a $2 can of lubricant from walmart. For the second lower, I bought a $2 quart of motor oil and only used a little over an ounce for the entire process. Lubricate the bit and where you're going to be drilling.

  • Keep a good grip. For milling the sides of the fire control pocket, you need to use your hands to move the lower around clockwise until the reciever wall is flush with the jig. If you go counter clockwise, or do not have a steady grip on the jig, it could get away from you and very bad things could happen.

  • Watch videos of people milling these lowers. Before taking on this project, I watched every video of this process I could find. Most of those people have experience with things of this nature and give you other tips throughout.

    There are other ways to finish a lower like this, including getting and actual end mill, or using the 80% arms Easy Jig. Going the Easy Jig route means that you can use a hand drill instead of a drill press.


    Completed rifle.

    To finish building the rifle you will need:

  • Lower Parts Kit

  • Buffer Tube Assembly which includes the buffer tube, buffer spring, and buffer.

  • Stock

  • Upper receiver

    If this is your first rifle, it is usually recommended you purchase a complete upper assembly which simply attaches to the lower receiver. Palmetto State Armory has a nice selection. These typically do not come with a bolt carrier group or charging handle, which you will also need.
u/hated_n8 Ā· 1 pointr/Tools

I got this one and its been mediocre. I was using a 1/2 inch spade bit to drill through about 1 inch of wood flooring and it simply couldn't handle it.

I thought an AC drill would deliver a lot more power.

But according to the above comment both the drill I put in the OP are shit so I'm open to any suggestions!

u/M-Thing Ā· 1 pointr/DIY

DeWalt makes a solid power drill that fits your budget. This is the one I have. Lots of power and durably built. DeWalt has many other tools that accept the same battery.
Here are a bunch more with various battery sizes. Not sure of the advantages of the various battery sizes, but I have no complaints with my 18v.

u/MediocreFisherman Ā· 15 pointsr/IAmA

I love going to the flea market on the weekend. I live near Cincinnati and frequently hit up Caesars Creek and Pirates Cove (used to be Turtle Creek). It seems Caesar's has really died since they had a fire, everyone moved over to Pirates Cove.

It doesn't look like you have a lot of inside space. But maybe you can answer this for me. I often notice that a lot of inside vendors at the flea markets I go to are closed. Since the place is only open 2 days a week, this seems kind of odd. I mean, if you only have 2 days a week to make money, wouldn't you want to be there? But more often than not I'll walk through at 9 am and at least 1/4 of the vendors aren't open and its frequently the same ones every time. It seems to me if I ran a flea market I'd have a requirement that they need to be open, especially since people are paying to come in and shop ($2 for parking). Its only making the flea market management look bad when 1/4 of their vendors aren't there. I can't tell you how many times I've wanted to buy something but the owner isn't there to sell it to me. Whats the deal with this?

How do you manage vendors that just sell...crap? I see a lot of vendors that have been in the same spot for years that never have customers because what they sell is either over priced or just stuff no one wants. Do you only care as long as the vendor is paying their fees? Or, do you look to manage to ensure that you have quality vendors that people actually want to come in and shop with, rather than people just taking up space?

What about religious vendors? There is a booth at both Caesars and Pirates cove that has Jehova's witnesses accosting you as you walk by. Annoys the crap out of me.

How do you handle vendor / customer disputes? Eg - last year I was looking to buy a dewalt impact driver. There are several used power tool vendors at the flea markets I go to. One guy was asking $125 for a used dewalt impact, battery and charger. I said look dude, they go for cheaper than that new online - https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF885C1-20V-Impact-Driver/dp/B01LBT3AZU $92 for a new unit with a carrying case. I offered $75, which he begrudgingly accepted. Later, I found him at another tool vendors booth pointing me out and warning them that I was making up prices online (uh...I showed him the amazon listing on my phone) in order to haggle people down. I just about went and talked to management, as this seemed unnecessarily childish. He didn't need to accept my offer, and he certainly didn't need to tell others I was some kind of scammer.