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Reddit reviews: The best power grinders

We found 166 Reddit comments discussing the best power grinders. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 99 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top Reddit comments about Power Grinders:

u/Nenotriple · 2 pointsr/turning

A topic like this just came up, here's what I said then.

The Hurricane Tools are pretty decent. I've never tried carbide turning tools, but I feel that regular steel tools are just as good.

I primarily use the bowl gouge set, and then for everything else, I bought the cheap Benjamin's best 8-piece set.

For almost a year I sharpened them by hand because I really was unsure of grinding. I just have a cheap 6" grinder with stock wheels, that I always feel like it would eat up, and burn the tools. I was really tempted to buy the wolverine jig, so I tried to copy it out of wood. I replicated both of these jigs (though the one on the left is all you really need) and used some old rusty flat head screw drivers to practice the bevel. It worked surprisingly well on the screw drivers, I could even turn with them.

Sharpening the actual tools worked fantastically well, they finally "cut" for the first time, heh. Again, I thought I would burn them up, but light even pressure, and multiple passes made it super simple. It really only takes a few seconds to sharpen them, it actually takes me longer to adjust my custom jig. If you're using the same tool, and jig position, it's super easy though.

Next you'll be wanting info on chucks ;)

u/art_and_science · 6 pointsr/Blacksmith

This... but a wire brush on an angle grinder (even a cheap one like:
http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC60TAG-6-0-Amp-2-Inch-Grinder/dp/B004X5NNGG/ref=lp_552812_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1457450934&sr=1-1) will work better and faster then on a drill.
Where there are chips out on the left one, you should probably radius the edges just a little so that you don't get more metal chipping off.

for the wire brush I would suggest something like:
http://www.amazon.com/Osborn-33467SP-Knotted-Stainless-Diameter/dp/B00QK979UO/ref=sr_1_14?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1457451106&sr=1-14&keywords=wirebrush+cup+5%2F8
Twisted wire brushes are very aggressive, so you won't need to work very hard to get the rust off... but at the same time wont do more then polish the steel. Make sure you really have proper eye protection on when you wire brush (or really do anything in the smithy)... wire brushes can throw tiny little bits of wire at high speeds!
These look like two really nice anvils. I'm curious what the makes and weights are... If you did not thank who ever gave you these in a very dramatic way, you should! ... even if you did, you probably should again. These are really nice anvils!

u/XR999 · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Mastercraft is fine for some tools though I would not suggest that blue box shown in your ad photo. I had one as a beginner box (since it was on sale and I needed something cheap at the time) and it's not very good. That box easily tips over if more than 2 drawers are open which by itself would be fine if not for the fact nothing holds those drawers shut so if your box is on even a slight incline the drawers tend to want to slide open. Well that and I outgrew that box pretty quick so honestly I would suggest like others have mentioned to check the used market, whether through a tool truck or Kijiji, Craigslist, etc as you will often get much better value for your money.

In terms of hand tools the MAXIMUM line is pretty decent to start out with if you get it on sale but never pay full price for anything at Canadian Tire if you can avoid it, it's rarely worth it at full price (ex. Most MAXIMUM air tools cost as much or a little less than Ingersoll Rand when not on sale). My diamond driver screwdrivers and bolt extractors have worked quite well and a few of my coworkers have purchased that MAXIMUM die grinder and liked it, though personally I stick with Ingersoll Rand or AIRCAT for air tools.

Another thing to keep in mind to is many professional brands, including Snap-On, do not produce every tool that bears their name. Instead another manufacturer makes them and simply brands the tool with their name and at the same time produces the same tool under their own name for much cheaper. A perfect example is these low profile screwdrivers. Snap-On was advertising just the number 2 Philips (with their name on it) in a past catalog for around $20 or you can buy the whole set of 3 from the original manufacturer for a couple of bucks more. It's always worth looking into whenever you might need to purchase a tool.

u/LeonardTimber · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

I have a 4.5 inch dewalt that I got about 6 months ago. It is phenomenal. I cannot speak for longevity, but I've cut a few bike locks for friends, and it has cut through a U-Lock in around 15-20 seconds. I have a buddy with a Makita that takes about a minute or so. Dewalt is usually pretty good about warranties, and it sounds like you aren't gonna be abusing it, so you should be fine for a long time.

edit: I am now reading about DeWalt moving their more recent grinder production to china, so I would not actually classify them as buy it for life if you use them very regularly. Better than a bottom-of-the-line makita or milwaukee though, hands down. If you aren't using the tool that often, it should do fine.

u/BikeTeacher · 2 pointsr/bicycling

The 1.5 is pretty small, you may be able to use a small file to achieve the best results. If you are interested in a bench grinder, any big hardware store should have this. It makes a great addition to any shop, just like having a 4" vise. https://www.amazon.com/DELTA-GR150-6-Inch-Bench-Grinder/dp/B00006K003. Thanks!

u/pomester · 2 pointsr/woodworking

There might be a problem with the size of the guard, but the real problem is the on/off switch on the grinder - you need a grinder with a 'paddle' switch that turns off if you let go -

The Lancelot wheels are effective tools but leave little room for operator error - make sure the grinder's guard is on and positioned well, use safety glasses, leather gloves, substantial leather shoes, no loose clothing, and make sure the work piece is well secured in a position such that the tool can be held effectively with both hands - I find that position to be such that my femoral artery is not far from the cutters - I strap on a pair of chain saw chaps...

I have a Milwaukee 6147 (actually an older interation) - that works well with the wheels -

u/NJoose · 4 pointsr/chefknives

I recommend starting with the Ken Onion Work Sharp with the Blade Grinding Attachement

It has a variable speed motor that you can turn down super slow, which makes it impossible to burn your blades. This setup can handle all but the most extreme repairs and can even do some basic knifemaking. It’s very small and fits on any countertop. You don’t need some huge workshop or anything like that.

Once your become proficient on junk knives, move onto nicer ones!

And once you’ve outgrown the Work Sharp, move into real belt grinders!

u/spikefu · 1 pointr/Bellingham

I've heard good things about General Chain Saw, but you could also pop down to lowes/home depot/hardware sales and pick up one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Makita-9557PBX1-2-Inch-Grinder-Aluminum/dp/B0010DHFTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1413254624&sr=8-4&keywords=makita+5+inch+grinder

That's what I use when I need to sharpen mine and it seems to work well enough.

Edit: Oh heheh, I'm assuming you mean flat rotating lawnmower blades, not reel mower blades. I would definitely take a reel mower to someone like General Chain Saw. Hitting reel mower blades with a hand grinder really wouldn't be a good idea.

u/Silound · 1 pointr/turning

The Wolverine jig and Vari-Grind accessory are one option, and probably by far the most popular, but there are also:

u/smackgoesthepaddle · 2 pointsr/specializedtools

They have all kinds of systems. Tormek has a whole business based on a rotary setup. It is VASTLY over-rated. https://www.amazon.com/Tormek-TBT401-Sharpening-System-Hand/dp/B00OXUPRKQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1542739742&sr=8-8&keywords=tormek+t3 And incredibly SLOOOOWWWW.


The large, trued, zeroed & rigid industrial systems work very well, but are super expensive. Anything less that those are generally beaten by hand sharpening on a cardboard wheel. I have a big incentive to invest in sharpening systems, and have yet to find something that beats this system, without spending $20,000. https://www.amazon.com/Razor-Sharp-Edgemaking-System-Sharpening/dp/B015PJF99C

u/mjthetoolguy · 2 pointsr/handtools

Depending on your budget, a Tormek is arguably the best and most efficient system out there.

I can’t afford a Tormek but my friend has one and swears by it. I got the Grizzly knockoff and they really are worth the money.


https://www.amazon.com/Tormek-Cooled-Precision-Sharpening-System/dp/B01FHLUMSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Tormek&qid=1574913956&sr=8-3

u/thepimento · 1 pointr/DIY

If hollow, give it a try, but I'd be surprised if it isn't steel rod (they're not thick enough to support the weight of a body otherwise. Use a hacksaw, or upgrade to a grinder with cutoff wheel. If you're handy, it won't be the last time you use this inexpensive and robust tool. The Harbor Freight version is 10 bucks.

u/frenchiebuilder · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Wire brush works, but is kinda sketchy; the bristles fly off a lot. A cup grinding wheel is much way better & safer. A dust shroud is money well-spent, too.

u/Phearlosophy · 2 pointsr/harborfreight

It also looks like it has been pretty heavily used based on the guard plate scuffs and the motor housing. $65 new brand name vs $40 used HF w/o legit warranty... idk man. Splitting hairs at that point imo

edit: $55 Makita & $67 Dewalt searching amazon for like 30 seconds

u/norton_mike · 3 pointsr/turning

Grabbed this one, setup a homemade version of the wolverine jig and mounted it to a rolling stand. Slow speed grinder with finer wheels. Pretty happy with the results I get from it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015U2STNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/minhthanhvn · 1 pointr/turning

Thanks for the advices! I found a cheaper bench grinder: POWERTEC 8" SlowSpeed Grinder. Is it good?

u/SSChicken · 2 pointsr/NYCbike

This cordless one would work fine, It takes about 30 seconds tops to get through something like that bike lock with mine. Wouldn't really be worth it to buy one just for this situation though

u/BPS-13 · 1 pointr/Locksmith

Worth keeping in mind that no matter how high-security a padlock is, it suffers from the disadvantage of being located entirely outside the structure and is vulnerable to attack. I have yet to see a padlock that could stand up to a hundred dollar battery powered right angle grinder with an abrasive cutoff wheel. It's probably not the answer you're looking for, seeing as how you're asking for free advice on the internet, but you really ought to spend a little more and perhaps get a professional to survey your door and suggest a way of installing the locking mechanism on the inside of the door, leaving only the keyed cylinder (or keypad or card reader) exposed on the outside. $200K worth of stuff really ought to be secured better than with a padlock on a sliding door.

u/james32353246 · 1 pointr/Tools

Here's the Dremel package for $99. - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1SJNVU/

Tack Life $37 (I wonder how much better this one is compared to the $17 one) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6RH433

Skil 4.5" angle grinder ($47.95) - https://www.amazon.com/9296-01-7-5-Amp-2-Inch-Paddle-Grinder/dp/B009RJE6TQ/


I really like this Makita and the case it comes in - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010DHFTK/

Hitachi 4.5" $44.99 - https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-G12SR4-6-2-Amp-Grinder-Abrasive/dp/B0199MMA84/

Bosch 4.5" $49 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SUOU/

u/Jugrnot · 1 pointr/harborfreight

I have 3 grinders:

  • Dewalt DEW402
  • Portercable PC60TPAG
  • An older HF 5 or 7 amp.. can't recall which.

    I listed these in specific order of my favorite, second favorite, and third. Depending on what I'm doing, I lean pretty hard on these grinders from time to time and all three are fantastic. The HF is slightly underpowered compared to the dewalt, but it was always 1/3rd the cost! If you can spare a few extra bucks, I'd probably swing for the Porter Cable personally... however, I have no doubt the Chicago Electric would probably last you a good long time.
u/throw667 · 0 pointsr/AskCulinary

The investment in the grinder might not compensate for the skillet, but HERE'S ONE IF YOU'RE IN THE USA.

THIS type of attchment could help get into the corners.

u/SendyScardieCat · 1 pointr/StainedGlass

Here is my shortened list, I put an asterisk next to items I can't do without

Items you buy once:

  • breaking pliers*
  • running pliers*
  • glass cutter (i prefer a pistol grip one)*
  • Solder Iron (get one that has temperature control!) + solder iron stand*
  • safety glasses*
  • fid*
  • grinder (can be cheap! I have this one and I am very happy)*

    ​

    Supplies you replenish:

  • Flux*
  • solder*
  • glass cutting fluid*
  • foil*
  • silver sharpie (those things write so good)
  • glass cleaner (or isopropyl alcohol works too in a pinch)
  • patina + rubber gloves
u/zackcp04 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I have used the following tools for all my tiling needs so far each has their own strengths and weaknesses:

u/throwaway29173196 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

If log furniture is his thing and you have access to logs, I'd think a chainsaw would be high on the list.

If he already has one; think about a small electric chainsaw that he can run in the garage.

Also an angle grinder would be a lower cost tool that would be very helpful in working with log furniture; If on a budget a flap disc can remove a lot of material; or you could look at the King Arthur line of wood carving attachments.

u/OgreUAhole · 1 pointr/AskReddit

As mentioned by others, you could try something like a rust buster solvent. Lastly. do you own a grinder? If so, you could cut them off. If not, you should think about buying one. It's one of those once-in-a-lifetime purchases that really come in handy.



u/Gr8ingPresence · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Note that Motion Pro recommends grinding off the head of the pin on chains 520 and larger. You'll see lots of posts from people who ignored this recommendation and now have broken Motion Pro tools. If you've got an angle grinder, it makes the removal step really quick.

I bought this angle grinder for 40 bucks - super torquey and lots of included wheels to get you going, and a nice carry case, to boot.

u/mechazirra · 1 pointr/StainedGlass

Hmm... I have a gyphon gryphette grinder from Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Gryphon-Corporation-GRYPHETTE-Gryphette-Grinder/dp/B003GF707M

... I think I'm already pretty aggressive putting probably too much force on it when I'm grinding and I get impatient. (This is not when I crack things... it's always when using grozer pliers to get off some excess glass). I do a combination of pushing forward and left to right, mostly just trying to figure out what's faster. Maybe I just need a new bit? But I've barely used the bit as it is... How often do you need to replace them?

u/adambultman · 0 pointsr/Roadcam

Tens of thousands. I almost said "hundreds of thousands", which clearly I should have.

The point is - the amount of wear on those particular e-brake parts is so insignificantly small as to render your points above moot. A couple of pounds of pressure, maybe, on metal ratchet parts? Yeah, not going to happen.

Tell you what: Take apart your e-brake handle, and measure with a proper set of digital calipers, all of the various parts there. Put your e-brake back together (being sure to properly lubricate it, as it likely was from the factory!)

Cycle it 20,000 times, disassemble, and measure the wear on it. It will be an insignificant amount of wear :-/.

No cheating, either!

u/Biduleman · 12 pointsr/LearnUselessTalents

According to /u/meangrampa it cost about 75$.

25$ for the angle grinder.

80$ for the drill press

30$ for the vice

And then you have tools you can use for other stuff too.

But let's be real, anyone who needs a square broach already have at least the drill and the vice.

u/CaptRon25 · 1 pointr/gunsmithing

Get a variable speed bench grinder. I have a Delta that goes from 2000rpm to 3400. There are also slow speed bench grinders that are around 1700rpm

u/LockAndCode · 3 pointsr/lockpicking

I use a cordless right angle grinder with an abrasive cutoff wheel. There are some padlocks that can take hammer blows and have boron shackles that break bolt cutter jaws. Nothing resists the grinder.

u/BRICKSEC · 1 pointr/pics

Combination for entire package is Grinder.

u/hawt · 1 pointr/lacrosse

See if you know anyone that has an angle grinder.

That's what I always use.

u/b0b0tempo · 3 pointsr/philadelphia

You could

Join West Philly Tool Library http://westphillytools.org/

Borrow angle grinder.

Buy silicon carbide/aluminum oxide cutoff wheel

Make cuts

Return grinder

Or, go to any autobody shop

u/AyeMatey · 1 pointr/DIY

Use an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel for cutting sheet steel.

u/kuangmk11 · 3 pointsr/Seattle

haven't been booted yet but I keep this handy. Its hard on batteries but should be enough.

u/danelectro15 · 1 pointr/knifemaking

The Craftsman would be a big upgrade from the 1x30 simply because the two inch belts will help you get a more even flat grind. It's a solid little machine that can make a great knife if you're on a budget and can learn its quirks. Runs really fast though.

Edit: looks like the Craftsman isn't made anymore but this one looks identical

https://www.amazon.com/Norse-BDSG2x6-9681119-Sander-Grinder/dp/B07FFKD4HH/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=Norse+2x42&qid=1555990589&s=gateway&sr=8-4

The mods I did are remove all the dumb shrouds and hoods over the belt, jb weld a ceramic platen on, replace the work rest because the stock one has weird grooves in it.

u/cesrep · 1 pointr/Bladesmith

This is the angle grinder I have: Porter Cable PC60TAG

And these are the cutting disks I bought for it: DeWalt DW8061B5 Cutting Wheel

Will be cutting O1, D2, 1055 High Carbon, and, eventually, Gucci shit like CPM S35VN, all prior to heat treating.


Safe?