(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best power & hand tools

We found 31,293 Reddit comments discussing the best power & hand tools. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 12,060 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

🎓 Reddit experts on power & hand tools

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where power & hand tools are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 1,065
Number of comments: 480
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Total score: 120
Number of comments: 78
Relevant subreddits: 3

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Top Reddit comments about Power & Hand Tools:

u/backlumchaam · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

For (bigger) diagonal cutters/pliers, I think the most BIFL are NWS with their "Titan finish". Knipex is a fairly close second, but I like the finish on NWS better. Both can handle hard and medium hard wire (including nails and screws) without a problem, unlike most Klein, Snap-On, etc. The biggest issue is finding NWS in the US. The NWS Fantastico Plus are the best diagonal cutters I've ever laid my hands on.

For precision cutters/pliers, Xuron. They're semi-flush (Xuron call them flush, but I'd still call them semi-flush) micro sheer cutters are great but thankfully don't seem to nick up easily like (Xcelite, Snap-On, etc.) flush cutters do. I like the ones with that are ESD safe, with extra long handles, and the lead retainer best if you're going to be populating a lot of circuit boards. Otherwise, their cheaper models are just as nice.

Wiha precision screwdrivers. I've given this set as a gift before. Wera for the bigger stuff if you need it. Wiha or Wera bits (only larger sizes, I've never found precision bits I've particularly liked).

Klein to fill in gaps.

Bondhus hex keys.

Find a nice used Fluke multimeter on eBay. 89IV go for under $200 and have pretty much identical features to the 189 (believe the 189 mostly just has a bigger inductance/capacitance range). Most universities will have someone tasked with calibration/maintaining the measurement equipment. Make friends and he'll probably calibrate it for you/teach you how/just let you jump in and try. Mine was falling out of the box after UPS drop kicked it to my door, but the calibration was still super boring as nothing needed adjustment.

Hakko or Weller soldering station. Easy to find tips, especially for Weller. WESD51 dropped to $99 on Amazon a couple times in the last year, great time to scoop one up for little more than the analog version. The Stahl Tools one Amazon sells is also good for dirt cheap, but not really BIFL; good luck on finding tips. Metcal is too rich for my blood, but if you ever happen across one that is cheap.

Kester "44" solder, accept no substitute. 63/37 or 60/40, but since the spool will last you half a lifetime, I'd probably go with the 63/37.

I have a love/hate relationship with wire strippers. Something like this usually gets the job done, but sometimes you'll get wire with a strange jacket size and they'll fail. For the automatic kind, this style works ok (especially if you adjust it to what you're stripping), but I usually like this style better; again, as long as the jacket isn't too small and you wire is in the right range. Sadly, I probably most often grab for cheapies like this. The adjustment screw is great if you have to do a lot of a certain size, but I tend to free hand them. It takes quite a bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it, it's the fastest. Thermal wire strippers are just too pricey for the home user, especially if you want to do PVC, teflon, etc. jacketed wire.

I also have a love/hate relationship with crimpers. I have some crimpers I got for Anderson Powerpole connectors from West Mountain Radio (largely because I couldn't believe how cheap they are-- connector-specific crimpers are usually many times the price they charge) and they were great for the Powerpoles. I even bought some of the other die sets, but I've been less happy with those. I often end up using a similar pair to these or the die on a pair of Klein lineman's pliers for the larger crimps.



u/TheophilusOmega · 2 pointsr/CampingGear

I"m assuming that you will be going soon, say the next month or so, time of year counts, but I'll assume it's soon.

Your tent is a little "meh." it'll work but it might not last so long; especially take core of the poles, they beak easily. Also the cheapo tent stakes that come with the tent are going to bend and you will curse them every time you set up your tent. Pick up some like these and they will serve you well. (Personally I hate using tents; they are hassles to set up and take down, and generally not pleasant to sleep in. If you can help it try sleeping under the stars and see if that suits you.)

You might find your sleeping bag to be a bit chilly, I'd recommend a 20 degree bag with a hood. I know it won't get that cold but the degree ratings are quite exaggerated so 20 degrees is really more suitable for 50 degrees. If you don't want to spend more money on a bag, make sure you have warm clothes and a good fitting beanie.

Air mattresses are fine, just take care to feel out for thorns or anything that might puncture it. Also you might want a blanket or something in between you and the mattress because it will suck out the heat from underneath you if you don't have some insulation.

You should have a tarp or footprint to put your tent on to protect it and the air mattress from punctures, it's worth it. The tarp you have should be fine (maybe doubled over if its thin), but a footprint will be more convenient.

For $15 that stove is a great deal, buy it if it still works fine. It runs off of white gas AKA "camp fuel", which you can find at many grocery stores, gas stations, any place with a sporting goods section, and many stores near popular camping areas. Finding white gas is not really an issue.

Don't buy matches, just get 2 or 3 Bic lighters. Really you should learn to make a fire using only your lighter, make that your goal each night. In a pinch my favorite fire starter is one you can make at home before your trip. Get an old egg carton and stuff each cup with cotton balls or dryer lint. then pour melted candle wax into each cup until about 90% full. Let the carton harden then pack it away. To use it rip off one cup and light the cardboard edge, you will have a strong flame for about 15 minutes.

Don't buy a filter. Water will be easy to come by at most campsites, but not all of them have a tap so make sure to bring along a few extra gallons just in case.

Lanterns produce almost no usable light, save your money and stick with the headlamp. Also that headlamp is excellent I highly recommend it. Protip: leave it around your neck like a necklace when you sleep then it's easy to find in the middle of the night.

I have a lot of experience with wilderness medicine and those pre-made kits are mostly worthless, you are much better off making your own kit.

I Recommend:

  • 2-3 Rolls Athletic Tape - This works for making bandages and splints, covering blisters, cuts, burns, ect.
  • Small Bottle of Ibuprofen (Advil) - Pain reliever, and muscle relaxant that aids in the recovery and prevention of injuries
  • 1-2 Ace bandages - Makes bandages, splints, and slings
  • Duct Tape - General purpose item
  • Roll Gauze - For major injuries with significant bleeding
  • Individually Wrapped Antihistamine (Benadryl) Tablets - Optional if you don't have allergies
  • Bic Lighter - Sterilizes metal instruments
  • Mini Swiss Army Knife - Excellent scissors and tweezers for minor injuries, sterilize with a flame before each use
  • Sunscreen - Don't want to get burned
  • Triple Antibiotic (Neosporin) - Ward off infection of open wounds, do not apply directly to the cut but rather around like a defensive wall
  • Alcohol Prep Pads - Cleans and sterilizes open wounds before dressing
  • Add Any Prescription Meds / Regularly Taken Medicines - Inhaler, insulin, Epi-Pen, ect.
  • Add Anything That Makes You Feel Better Knowing You Have It - eg snake bite kits, aspirin, SAM splint, burn gel

    Chair looks comfy, get one you like with at least 1 cupholder

    A good knife makes a great survival tool and is just generally a useful item, check here every few days for a good deal on high quality knives. Multi tools are great to have around camp but an inexpensive set of tools would be much better for your situation. If you want a true multi-tool this one is good quality and a fair price.

u/TOUCHER_OF_SHEEP · 2 pointsr/EDC

Alright, sounds good. A very basic recommendation would be a Spyderco Endura, which is a great knife in VG-10 stainless steel. In this steel you should occasionally oil your blade, but that's really it. If that looks too big, the Spyderco Delica is the same knife, essentially, but smaller. Another good Spyderco would be the Spyderco Stretch, also in VG-10. All three of these have strong back locks.

For a slightly more expensive knife, the Spyderco Manix 2 comes in 154CM stainless steel and a hard-use ball bearing lock.

The Benchmade Griptilian comes in 154CM stainless steel and has the second strongest lock on the market on it- the axis lock. There's also a version with a thumb hole instead of a thumb stud.

The Buck TM Vantage Pro comes in S30V stainless steel- one of the better steels available up until the $150 mark- but only costs about $60, and is by far the cheapest knife of its size available in S30V.

The Kershaw Blur in S30V is an amazing assisted knife in good steel. The Kershaw Junk Yard Dog is a great folder in a composite of a couple of good steels.


The Zero Tolerance 0700 is kind of funny looking but a solid knife in S30V.

So far, all of these are within your price range. Now, I'll move up just a bit and double it- you're now looking at a $200 range.


The Manix 2 XL in S30V is one of the strongest folders out there. It's definitely a hard-use knife and will survive a hell of a lot.

The Benchmade 275 Adamas is probably the strongest folder in existence. It's in D2 tool steel and has an incredibly robust axis lock that was beefed up to take more damage.

The Spyderco Caly 3.5 in ZDP-189 steel is an incredible knife in fantastic blade steel. I wish they made more things in it, I really do.

The Spyderco Techno is a bit smaller but will certainty last nonetheless.

The Spyderco Sage in S30V will do it for ya, that's for sure.

I'd love me some Benchmade Emissary in S30V.

The ZT 0350 is a folding tank.

All of these knives will last for whatever you want to do with them. Some are too heavy to reasonably EDC, like the BM Adamas and the ZT 0350, but others, like the BM Griptilian, are perfect EDC knives.

If you have questions on any of the knives I've linked or about their care and maintenance, feel free to ask.


u/StonePotato · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5
http://www.eciggity.com/2-pc-sony-18650vtc5-2600mah-30a-battery/

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404287334&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray
http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-stingray-mod-stainless-steel/

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/309-magma-atomizer-clone-by-infinite.html

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls
http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-Triple-count/dp/B00E8T2X36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288337&sr=8-3&keywords=organic+cotton

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-100ft-0-40386-Resistance/dp/B00HALND7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288659&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYGV/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300
http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O1X65A/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g&index=2&list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors
http://www.amazon.com/Amercian-Diagnostic-Corporation-3425-Stainless/dp/B000GHIUR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289491&sr=8-5&keywords=surgical+scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007588/1655800-heat-resistant-stainless-steel-tweezers-for-e

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23630-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3FKVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289861&sr=8-4&keywords=plano

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands
https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands?fref=ts

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A9YSPW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q6PJO8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

u/Silound · 3 pointsr/turning

> The Lathe:

Sounds like you've got this well under control.

> The Tools:

There are very split camps on tools: replaceable carbide tips vs traditional tools. Personally I think both have a place, but I do feel it's best to start with traditional tools to learn the how and why tools work the way they do. My personal opinion is always to spend the real money on good tools. They don't have to be expensive, but the right tool of the right quality (sharp, of course) will make all the difference in the world. Every try to dig a post hole with a hand trowel? :)

Also don't feel bound by just one brand or type of tool...most of us have lots of tools!

You can go with carbide-tipped tools such as Easy Wood Tools, Simple Woodturning Tools, or other brands. You can make your own for a fraction of the cost to buy.

There are a few of good entry-level HSS sets out there for about $80, such as this frequently recommended set of Benjamin's Best. I also like Hurricane brand tools which I feel are excellent entry-level HSS tools for the money. Either of those would serve you well through the learning curve and a good ways into your turning career.

If you wanted to pick just two higher-end tools, I feel Crown's Pro PM are good for the price. I own several, they're nice, but the handles are a bit short for my knuckle-dragging frame! All you really need for the projects you listed is a skew chisel and a spindle gouge.

Lastly, you could buy some of the popular "buy it for life" tools like Thompson Lathe Tools or D-Way Tools. These are widely considered the upper end of turning tools with each tool running between $55-200 (handles sold separately). Many people who get serious about their hobby end up with these tools because the harder tool steels are more durable.


> The Bench Grinder:

The Rikon 80-805 is the most common good deal for a grinder. Occasionally some other Asia-import will pop up on the scene for a little while, but the Rikon is pretty predictable about going on sale. Also, it comes with two decent wheels to get you started; not all import grinders come with decent wheels.

Eventually you might want to invest in CBN wheels to replace the frangible wheels that come on the grinder, but that's probably down the road for you.

Lots of people use that grinder, I've not heard anything outright bad about it (although some people prefer one with more HP).

> Drill Press?

A cheap drill press will get you there just fine.

The most common alternative is to purchase a 4-jaw chuck, such as the Nova G3 (which requires the appropriate insert), and also a set of pen drilling jaws and a drill chuck for the tailstock. That lets you drill blanks entirely on the lathe (and with better accuracy than a drill press IMO).

The downside is that the 4-jaw chuck, insert, jaws, and drill chuck collectively will cost damn near $200, which is a lot more than a cheap drill press. The upside is that the chuck is exactly what you will need if you decide to get deeper into turning and want to try bowls, boxes, and other things. Many of us already owned or planned to own a chuck, so the only real cost addition was the pen drilling jaws and the drill chuck.

> Pen turning attachments


  • Mandrel savers are a separate purchase.

  • Be warned that barrel trimmers are not universal, they come in different sizes and some pen kits use a sleeve to up-size the trimmer to fit the larger tube.

  • You can use epoxy or CA glue, whichever you prefer to glue tubes. If using CA glue, make sure you buy a spray bottle of accelerator so that you can zap the ends to prevent a dripping mess!

  • Any general sandpaper from a home improvement store will work fine, don't need anything fancy or expensive. Quite a few of us purchased the $40 box from Klingspor's which is enough sandpaper to last me several years.

  • A P100 filter dust mask is a good investment as well for safety gear.

  • FINISH: If you plan to use CA glue as your finish, you need a different viscosity (thin) than what you use to glue the tubes (thick). This means you need to buy two different bottles of CA and look into a pack of MicroMesh sanding pads for polishing the CA finish.

    If you plan on using something else for the finish, make sure you buy what you need.

  • SAW: You need a way to cut pen blanks and trim off excess waste. If you don't own any cutting tools that are sufficient for the job, a cheap miter box will do the job just fine. Make sure you clamp the box and the blank down well before sawing!
u/ImArchimedes · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

First of all, amazing. Second of all, how are you not platinum?

And I have to agree with your general thoughts on soldering. When I ended up using every io on my teensy and I didn’t have a short or cross, I almost jumped for joy. I know I at least stood up, fists in the air. It was so ugly but damn if it didn’t work.

The trick, in the end, was flux and a heavier duty mask : ) it’s like congealed magic poison but in a good way!

And, ya know, I ended up using the too large straight tip I had on my last project as well. I had just figured I’d have to use this one for something so fine. Sounds like I might like and have as much luck with a finer straight tip. I was finding that it was hard to keep those fine tips clean though. Hoping the lower temps were part of that.

And I’m absolutely going to try the hot air station. Let’s face it. I’m going to pretty much try every one of your suggestions, from leaded solder to 28 gage wire. You seem like someone who is passionate about this stuff and knows what you’re taking about. That’s a winning combo in my book. I’ve just gotta get past my fear of melting lead close to my face.

One last question: have you found any solid core 28 gage wire that is worth a damn? The best I’ve found is this 30 gage wire . It’s okay but it came in such a rats nest.

Finally, I’m going to attempt to give back a little. You’re probably already aware of this device but it has been a godsend. Are you familiar with this Irwin Vice Grip Wire Stripper. I’d used similar devices before and found them to be more trouble than they are worth. These, though, are amazing. Truly. Barely ever have to adjust. They strip most small electronics wire (10-24) in one fluid motion with zero adjustment. Sometimes I have to tighten but it’s rare. Really one of my favorite tools of all time.

And, again, thank you for taking the time to give such helpful suggestions. I’ll be referring back to this often.

u/Dzuari · 1 pointr/videos

Hey man, I know what it's like to make videos and get knocked on. I'm actually an 11 year manufacturing engineer who's poured molten metal on an industrial level, hundreds of thousands of pounds worth. I've Programmed and ran CNC machines, cut metals, drill welding, worked with water tools, abrasive tools, etc.

I've been trained by my grandfather who's been pouring metal since the 50's and my father who's been doing it since the 70's. Along with another half dozen men who all have a minimum of 20 years experience in industrial manufacturing. I'm going to give you some practical advice on how you could drastically improve your safety.

 

  • I saw your DIY foundry once, you used cement in the slurry mix. I hope to god you aren't leaving that thing outside. Actually I hope you never use that furnace ever again. Good move using the aquarium stuff but cement is literally the worst thing you can use for anything with a flame on it. Cement is porous, it will absorb moister. If that thing ever absorbs enough and you fire it up, it WILL explode. If you are lucky it will just crack and i know you'll probably reply, "well I've been using it for ....". Ok, that's fine but what my father taught me the first time i stepped foot in our shop, "Dzuari, all it takes to kill you IS once." Don't ever fuck with mother nature or machines, you will always lose.

    If you are still using that furnace, please throw it out and remake it so my grandfather can stop rolling in his grave. Use one of these materials;

    Fine Kiln dried lapis sand

    Silica Sand 6lbs

    2200deg Rutland castable cement Fire Clay

    25lbs Rutland castable cement

    Kaowool Insulation Blanket

    Your best bet is to use silica sand but it's typically more expensive, however it will last the longest. The refractory is really where the durability is. I'd experiment with different types, you could even try adding in fiberglass reinforcement which may increase durability. Oh and here is a K-type thermometer. You can buy some thermocouple leads and figure out the math to accurately measure your burn temperatures so you don't over oxides your metals.

    And honestly, if it was me, I'd remove that video and remake it. Someone will watch that video, go out and buy cement and one day it will explode on them. That's an extremely dangerous way to make a furnace.

     

  • Electricity and water. You can easily make your videos a whole lot safer just by distancing your water source from the electrical components with something like this for your Dremel. Pretty much apply this methodology to anything that involves electricity and water. The farther your motor and 120v input is to the water source, the better. You can make a quick plexiglass cover to help seperate it, make an extension shaft so the cutting wheel is further distanced and always wear heavy duty, insulated rubber gloves.. Hell you could even make your own retrofit abrasive water cutter with simple motor and pulley system. Matthais Wandel has a great belt sander build that wouldn't be hard at all to make your own water/abrasive wheel setup.

    The way you set up that cuttoff wheel.... smh. Please don't do that. Also I'm sure you already read the comments but there are times when to wear gloves and when not to wear gloves. You need to use a vice or clamp any time you can if it means avoiding using gloves when using a high-speed cutter of any kind. Especially if it's a wheel. Again, it only takes once.

     

  • General safety. You should really read every single MSDS sheet you get on anything you buy retail or salvage. I've seen you light stuff on fire with zero respiration protection or use things that should have been done on a downdraft table or you were wearing improper clothing. Some of the stuff you work with can really fuck you up and you blatantly did not know of it's harmfulness or willfully disregarded it.

     

    Overall man I like your videos but in my opinion of everyone DIY'er i watch on youtube, you are hands down the lease safe. I usually spot something you did wrong in every video you post. Whether you feel responsible for your viewers and what they do with the information you give them, is up to you. I just figured I'd give you some pragmatic advice from someone who does this stuff for a living. I actually did a few youtube videos about 6 years ago on my Channel over industrial level green sand. I'm planning on quitting my job within the next mont or two to start my own workshop/foundry/DIY/Youtube/website marketing thing from scratch. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll gladly answer them.

    Here's some random tips;


    Don't use pop can metal for anything structural. It's 3000's series aluminum and it's mades specifically to be malleable. Good rule of thumb for scrap metal is, if it came from something cheap, the metals cheap. The highest quality aluminum you can get for CASTING is automotive parts. Typically made from A356-T6, very good aluminum. I see a lot of guys metal down "Aircraft" or "Aerospace grade" aluminum for casting thinking it's going to be strong. It will not be, 6000 or 7000 series aluminum is all wrought/worked aluminum. It gets it's strength from massive presses that squeeze the metal into shape. Once you heat it up it looses all that strength.

    T6 heat treat is the most common treat process for aluminum. If you are making something structural, heat treatment will greatly increase it's strength. But you have to use the correct aluminum for or it can't be treated (Automotive parts/A356). The process is usually 8hrs at 800-1000F then either a quench/2hrs at 300F or age hardening. With that K type thermometer you can easily set up your furnace to heat treat. Also, most aluminum age hardens once poured, usually around 21 days.

    Please never wear shorts ever again when working with molten metal. It's not that it will burn your leg. It's that it will hit your leg, then fall into you shoe. Then you have a burning foot and a ladle of molten metal in your hand. I've done this with high top boots and jeans on. My father would fire my on the spot if he ever saw me pouring with shorts on. I saw a guy poure about 2lbs of aluminum into his boot once. 6 years later his still on disability. Please don't ever do it again.


    Random informational videos

    Metallugical nature of Aluminum and crystalizing structures

    Grain Structure of Metal

    Cold work vs Hot work metal. E.I. this is wrought metal like 3000, 6000 & 7000 series aluminum

    Cermaic Material for Furnace Insulation
u/TwoWheeledTraveler · 2 pointsr/Ducati

So the good news is that the engine in your bike (the aircooled two valve, or "desmodue") is about the simplest and easiest to maintain of all the modern Ducati engines. I have the same one in my Scrambler and it's really quite simple. You also don't have a ton of fairings or whatever covering stuff up.

So, with a fairly basic set of tools you can certainly learn to do your routine maintenance yourself. For basic tools, you'll want a basic "mechanic's" tool set that includes Metric sizing, and both sockets and "allen wrenches." You can piece this together or buy something like this that'll have just about everything you need. You'll also need some torque wrenches. I have this one for higher torque stuff and this one for lower. They're not the super awesomest in the world but they're just fine.

Let's look at a couple of simple jobs:

Chain Maintenance

This is one you'll want to be doing every 500 - 600 miles or so. You can do this without a rear stand, but it is MUCH easier with one.

Required tools:

A chain brush (I use this one from Tirox)

Chain Cleaner (I use Motul Chain Clean)

Chain lube (I use Motul lube )

Some nitrile gloves because yuck, and some cardboard to prop up between the chain and the wheel / tire. You DO NOT want chain lube on your tire.

Optional is a rear stand. Everyone will yell Pitbull, which are great but expensive. I didn't want to go ultra cheapo, so I ended up with a set of Pro II stands from GPI Industries. They were like $100 on sale.

Basically, you put the bike up on the rear stand, stick some cardboard between the chain and the wheel, hose it down with cleaner, brush it off, blot it off, and hose it down with lube. When I'm done I typically put the bike back on the sidestand and check for proper chain slack as well, just because.

Oil Changes

These are "officially" a 7500 mile deal on our bikes, but I'm conservative and do it at about half that.

Required tools:

An oil filter wrench. You'll need a 76mm octagonal one. I use this one and it's fine.

You'll also need oil, a filter, and a few O-rings and gaskets. The easiest way to get all this stuff is to go to Ducati Omaha (who are sponsors here and will give you 5% off and free shipping with the code in the sticky thread) and order an oil change kit for your bike. They'll even include the Ducati filter wrench for like $10.

You'll also need an oil drain pan and a way to transport the old oil to an auto parts store or other place that will properly dispose of it. PLEASE do not do something stupid like pouring it in the gutter or putting it in your trash.

This is another job that's made incredibly easier by putting the bike up on the rear stand.

There's a good walkthrough of how to do it here. This is on a Scrambler, but again it's the same engine. Note that this walkthrough includes checking the mesh filter which isn't strictly required every time. If you don't do that part all the things about taking the exhaust off aren't applicable. If you're not doing that part all you need to do is drain the oil, swap the filter, and re fill.

​

There are other jobs you can easily learn to do yourself, like brake pads and fluid, but if you start by learning to do chain maintenance and oil changes you'll have most of the stuff you need. The other thing I would recommend is to get yourself a nice set of bike washing stuff, and spend time every few weeks cleaning your machine. It's a good way to get familiar with what's where and what it should all look like "normally."

​

u/Tyler9400 · 60 pointsr/Bushcraft

Steel is steel mate. You can go with the expensive stuff, or with the cheap stuff - We're talking expensive at several hundred and cheap as under 20-50. I've seen 20 dollars knives made just as well as the 600 dollar knives, they just dont have the name brand. It's a chunk of steel, treated so it stands up to specific conditions and holds an edge better. It looks to be full tang - not sure what is up with the holes in the blade, or the design near the MT-5 logo. I found pictures online, looks like the steel comes out a bunch there? No idea what this design is or what purpose it could have - looks sketchy. And the holes in the blade...I mean I've seen the 5 dollar walmart knives with holes so you can create a makeshift spear but..Other then that, no idea why they are on this knife, and they cause more harm then good. You can use it for basic bushcrafting tasks but I'd be careful batoning, I've personally never heard of the brand - it could be name brand and be great, but it has some weird designs.

​

Really, steel is steel - all the fancy features cause more harm than good.

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Stainless-4-1-Inch-Military/dp/B004ZAIXSC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=1-4

That is a 12 dollar knife, and you really won't ever need more, but there are better options. The 12 dollar knife has a thinner blade and isn't suitable to as heavy duty work, but is a great beater knife for doing anything.

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Bushcraft-Survival-Starter-4-3-Inch/dp/B00BFI8TOA/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=1-7

And their top of the line knives are

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Garberg-Carbon-Leather-Sheath/dp/B07B8SP4G9/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-10

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-M-12642-Stainless-Compatible-4-3-inch/dp/B01I1GITMA/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-12

There's a carbon version and stainless steel version. I'm gonna be honest...for the most part, they all do the same thing, but people want different things and fancier things - the garberg is the only full tang out of the bunch, but even their half tang knives are bulletproof, they hold up incredibly well and I've batoned with him countless times without issue. Mora, IMO makes the best knives - I have several other brands, and there are some I like better for ergonomics - but that's not the point, the point is any knife will work, steel is steel. Just find what you think looks and feels good, learn how to sharpen it and what you like, it depends on the what materials/types of trees you are working with, and what type of work you do. I prefer convex and Scandinavian grind (V Grind) knives, the Cudeman MT-5 looks to be a full flat grind - which I mean..AFIAK is mostly used in like chef knives and stuff, it's incredibly sharp but it's not durable, hitting hard objects is gonna cause knicks and it's gonna be brittle. This is all from experience, it's not like im an expert - but to be fair, I'd just keep trying different ones and see how you like it, but I wouldn't go spending crazy money, the $300 knives you see all the fancy bushcrafters use...these are what I call wall knives..They use them in the videos cause they look good but most people would just keep them at home and keep using their beater knives, because we are hard on our equipment and honestly, they work just as wall, all the fancy scalings and what not make them expensive, but they don't make them better.

TL;DR: Steel is steel. Get a cheap knife, in a better grind suited for the work your doing. All depends on what work you do, and what tress you have, soft woods, hard woods ETC.

​

Edit: Definately don't have to go with Mora, I've just always used them and they've done me well.

u/Xuis · 9 pointsr/EDC

I would recommend a flashlight, and small multitool.


Flashlight


I would recommend the Fenix E05 | [Amazon Link] $20.13 for a very small light.

Multitool


The Leatherman Style | [Amazon Link] $16.79 is my most used item on my keychain because of the great scissors and minimal toolset. It has none of the tools I don't ever use. If you're looking for a more versitile toolset, look through the remainder of Leatherman's great micro-multi-tool lineup. Try to stay away from Gerber products if at all possible.

Flash-Drive


A flash-drive can be useful as well, but it's hard to find one that is both small and durable. I did a lot of research on which option to buy for quite a while. The grail of USB flash drives is the PQI Tiffy because of its incredible speed and durable housing. Unfortunately, it is nearly impossible to find for sale, and it's also super expensive. I went for the Kingston Datatraveler | [Amazon Link] $10.40, and it's working very well for me.

Fire


I've rarely needed one, but many folks want to carry a fire-starter with them, and there are some small options for your keychain. The Exotac NanoStriker $23.50 is a ferrocerium-based striker, and the True Utility FireStash [Amazon Link] $16.23 is a simple, tiny lighter.

Suspension


Finally, it's nice to have your keys hanging in a comfortable place in your pocket, and not in a bunched-up heap at the bottom. Definitly consider grabbing a P-7 suspension clip $12+shipping. I waited a while to pull the trigger on mine, but I don't regret it.
Another option would be the Obstructures Pry/Open tool $32. It serves as a pry-bar, which you don't yet understand how much you might use after you start carrying one.

Additional Information


Here's my setup today.

Here is a great post by /u/goretsky about where to buy one-handed multi-tools like Atwood, etc.

---------------------

P.S. It's great to have a color-scheme for your keychain. It looks fantastic.

u/dashn64 · 4 pointsr/PipeTobacco

I don't know the ins and outs of pipe restoring, but this website has all the info you'll need:

http://rebornpipes.com/

/u/Flatticus, /u/scriptonic and /u/federalmng are the best restorers I can recall on this sub (sure I'm missing others though). Hopefully one of them will see this.

The stems on quite a few pipes are heavily oxidised. The only way to fix that is by sanding them back as far as I know. There's a solution that is used to help in the process, I know it's on rebornpipes but I can't remember it (can't get the right product in Australia so I didn't make a mental note of it).

Some other good products for the stems are:

u/sevenpioverthree · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Youtube I guess. Here's some info about rebuilding in general, feel free to skip what you already know. Make sure you get an ohm reader first thing. You can buy wire and an ohm reader at lightningvapes.com with coupon code LV20 for 20% off. I think most people recommend 26g wire. I went with 24 and it's awesome for subohming, if you're planning to build higher, 28g would be the best. I'm not sure how well 30g will work out but the link below will let you know!

Also check out this website: http://steam-engine.org/coil.asp

On there you input your gauge wire, single/dual/etc coil, your target resistance and what the diameter of your coil is (you'll know this by which drill bit you wrap your wire around. It'll tell you how many wraps to do to get the resistance you want. After you build you'll want to throw the atty on the ohm reader to check for shorts (it won't show a regular reading if it's shorting) and also to check if you're near what your target resistance was. Don't be worried if it's not exact, the 510 ohm reader boxes aren't known for accuracy. If you're within 0.05 ohms you're good. Also some people like to build on their ohm reader, it's nice.

As far as other tools for rebuilding. I would recommend this screwdriver set: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1420044741&sr=1-2&keywords=stanley+6+piece+precision+screwdriver+set

It's great, I use it everytime I touch my mod for maintenance. Not sure what other people use but since I got that I never looked for anything else! The bits are awesome for wrapping coils around and the phillips will fit your post screws for sure.

That's about all you need really. Other than wire cutters and pliers/tweezers. You can get these awesome ceramic tipped tweezers from that first site. The ceramic won't get hot so you can squeeze your coils tighter with them while the coils are hot.

As far as preventing shorts, well I've never had a short so I can only tell you what I do. Don't let your coils' excess legs be hanging out and flying around all willy-nilly. Cut them nice and close and if you can't get close enough, bend them upward. That's about it as far as I know.

Let me know if you have any questions, sorry I couldn't teach you to build!

u/xszy · 1 pointr/parametrek

You're so generous for doing this! I've always wanted a nice multitool but I don't generally have a huge amount to spend on knives and cool gear like this. I really hope I can win! I would love to put a leatherman into my daily carry.

Thanks again and good luck with your website! It seems to be pretty well set up.

I would love this one!
https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Sidekick/dp/B005DI2QTC/?tag=parametrek-20

u/toxiclimeade · 2 pointsr/knives

If he had been carrying a Swiss Army knife that's probably the style he prefers, Opinel makes single bladed knives that open in the same way his old SAK did, and leatherman makes amazing multitools, I would recommend checking all these brands out.

Opinel knives are usually extremely cheap and run about 20$/£, their most popular knife is the No. 8 for about 12$/£, it comes in other colors and wood types as well. No. 8 is a bigger model and it might be a little bulky for someone use to a SAK, the small the number in the name ex. No. 7, No.6, get smaller as their number designation does. I have the No. 8 Trekking knife in slate and its a pretty great knife for its price (18$/£).

If he likes Swill Army Knives, there are quite a few more options to look at, they can get a little pricey for their size at times, I own the Tinker, this was my first knife and I have found that looking at the tools on these knives would behoove you. I do not need an awl in the knife I carry every day for instance. There are many many options to chose from, and through a little sifting you may find one that you feel suits him best. Victorinox (the brand that makes swiss army knives) also makes knives that are a little closer to the opinels I mentioned earlier, a few of their models (like this one) are simply one or two blades. I would look into local laws however, I know some places do not allow blades that can be opened with one hand like the one I linked you to.

Leatherman makes wonderful multitools and a few pocket knives. Nearly everything they make have blades that lock as a safety feature, although very few can be flicked open, so I would check the specifics of this law, I doubt a multi-tool is illegal. This is the Micra, it appears to be a smaller version of a leatherman I own that I cannot find on their site. This one has a blade that opens in a way that is legal for sure, its blade does not lock either. If you find that some locking blades are allowed, the Skeletool is a favorite of mine, it may look a little outlandish but it has always had the best combination of essential tools out of any of my multi-tools, and it is one of my favorites. The Style is a smaller version with slightly different tools ( I don't think it has screwdrivers), but it's blade does not lock. The skeletool is about 70$/£ I think, and their smaller tools like the micra and style are under 30$/£, this brand has quite a bit more I didn't touch on, if you think he would like something like this I would check out site, I hope you find something that works, I know I'm always thrilled when my girlfriend gets me a new knife.

u/WarSport223 · 1 pointr/VEDC

Knives.

I feel some sort of a utility-blade knife is great for fine / small / delicate work, and pair it with a nice medium - large, solid fixed blade knife is a good idea.

This is a ridiculously nice knife for the price:

SOG Tactical Knife with Sheath - “Field Knife” Fixed Blade Knives FK1001-CP 4” Fixed Blade Knife with Full Tang Sharp Knife Blade + Survival Knife Grip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUJBTBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.n2YBb2XANXSB



Also I’ve found that Schrade knives seem to provide an exceptionally good value. I bought this one for my bag when it was closer to I think $22/23.00....can’t beat that! Honestly I’m prob going to start collecting them. They’re super inexpensive yet pretty good quality / pretty well rated.

As much as I truly love and used to only go for the best, most expensive stuff, I’d rather have several less expensive knives stashed around instead of one super expensive one that I’m afraid to use, lose, break.

Schrade by BTI Tools SCHF36CP Frontier, 5" High Carbon Steel Blade, Full Tang, Clam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019RSXGYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Dq2YBb8BG9BV0


I did some research (of course....all my suggestions here are very well researched) and for the price, the 2 knives above are very good values. Don’t get me wrong; I love super high-quality, expensive things - especially knives - but;

  • I have around 20-ish knives and literally the only knife I ever use is my Gerger EAB utility knife and I only use it to open packages. :-|

  • As these are dedicated for car kits, there’s a chance they’ll get lost or stolen so I certainly don’t want a $200+ knife to play that role.



    Gerber EAB Pocket Knife [22-41830] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016KHW2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_px2YBb0W6VBGD

    These things are ridiculously small and useful. Great for EDC or VEDC. Been carrying one for years & use it all the time. Get the one I linked, NOT the fancy-looking new “upgraded” model - it is a POS. I bought 2-3 and the clip broke off on EACH of them almost immediately. It is also much larger than the original EAB.

    OR you can get something like this because you have spare blades + larger handle / better grip.

    Folding Utility Knife, Heavy Duty, Triple Ground Blades Stay Sharp, Pocket Clip Klein Tools 44131 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A9GGGYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wy2YBbA03MMH6




    Also a crowbar of some sort so that you aren’t tempted to use any of your knives as a crowbar.
u/mtpmc · 7 pointsr/EDC

Left to Right, mostly:



Green Cards - I switch this out with other cards pretty regularly, but it matched today. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESWPAKU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_R-0TDbZEN6C0N )



Slim Wallet - It's super thin and it attaches to my phone. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P4J55NV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9msGDb54PTKM2 )



Watch - It's durable and in my opinion doesn't look too bad for the price. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KYJAJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BosGDbN06048V )



Wireless Earbuds - They are dated so they aren't the best anymore, but they are still pretty good. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07582VVJR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QnCDDbV5X5EQY )



Multitool - It doesn't have a knife so I take this to school. It's not the best, but it does small things great. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058RX9NU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Rc1TDbRPMMDB0 )



Flashlight - For the size, it is really bright. It doesn't last forever, but it is rechargeable. I recommend it for something small. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GQRJLDP/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6g1TDb65T465P )



Knife - This sub knows this knife. ( https://www.bladehq.com/item--Benchmade-Bugout-AXIS-Lock-Knife--98607 )



Necklace - Totally normal carbon fiber dog tag. ( https://www.bladehq.com/item--Spyderco-Panchenko-Dog-Tag-Folder--29966 )


If anyone has any questions about any of this stuff, leave a comment and I'll do my best to respond. To clarify, the knife goes in my pocket and I put on the necklace after school. 

Thanks for taking the time to check out my post! Have a good rest of your day everyone!

u/FPFan · 8 pointsr/fountainpens

A lot of good suggestions for pens, I think the many different Chinese pens from Wing Sung and Moonman are good options, and you can price them to match what you want. I think the Moonman 80s, both standard and mini sizes, are also good options. Nib sizes are generally 0.5mm, but you can swap in Parker 45 nibs if you want, so could grab an accountant nib and put that in the Moonman for a very fine line.

Bot I think the biggest thing is to take the advice of /u/DontTakeMyNoise and read up on nib tuning. It is a simple thing that will make your fountain pen life much better. I would skip the brown paper bag though, and just get micro-mesh or a micro-mesh nail file. It just works better. For example, https://www.amazon.com/MICRO-MESH-SOFT-TOUCH-SANDING/dp/B000H6EC4C would do all the smoothing you would need, and in general, this https://www.amazon.com/Pink-Lizard-Sanding-Polishing-Bending/dp/B01ING00ZM would be all you need to finish polish a nib. Be sure if you look at nail buffers that the one you get has a 12000 grit side.

As a cheap student, you have lots of time to learn this, and it will give you more joy out of the pens you have. I would still recommend some of the others here, the Wing Sung 601, 698, the Moonman 80s are all great pens, and the Wing Sung 3008 or 3009 4 packs are amazing deals for their price. But make the ones you have work well too.

u/orogeny · 2 pointsr/DIY

Check your local laws on knife size. A lot of states and even some municipalities ban blades over 3 inches for carrying around concealed in your jeans pocket.

I sub to /r/knives and yeah, it is a scary part of the hivemind a lot of the time. Baseless brand loyalty and inane comments daily I'm not really sure about the fetish for wrapping knives they have at the moment. I personally carry a Benchmade on my person daily. Its a utility knife and I am not afraid to beat it up. The shape is good for a variety of tasks I encounter on a daily basis, box cutting, rope cutting, cutting fruit, punching through drywall when running cables, opening things, and the handle subs as a nice bottle opener.

Find a knife that you like the blade shape for your general applications and that fits well in your hand. As far as steel goes, you will want stainless for low maintenance. Carbon steels are great but upkeep on a daily carry can get rough. There are many locking technologies but you want to be sure you get a good one as having a folder collapse on your hand is not a fun thought. I personally like a lot that Spyderco offers, as well as Kershaw. Benchmades Axis lock inspires confidence that the blade wont snap out of place. I had to downsize from a Kershaw I was using when my state passed a law banning knives over 3 inches long or with assisted opening. You really cant go wrong with Spyder, benchmade, or Kershaw. They all are built to last and while there are other better/higher priced knives, generally those are not suited to a DIY utility purpose.

A couple of suggestions before I leave...

Kershaw Blur-Good Value

Benchmade Rift-Axis Lock/Tough

Finding your perfect pocket knife can be as hard or as easy as you like. I see no reason you cant go to Gander Mountain/Cabelas and find one that suits you right. If money is no object like you say, try a few knives out. You wont know until you feel it in your hand.

u/locutusofborg780 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

First of all, does the wall plate in your office have just 1 phone line? 2 or all 4?

All 4 would be ideal, but you need at least 2 for this to work because Ethernet needs at least 2 pairs of wires.

Also if you only have 2 pairs of wires then you'll only get 100Mbit Ethernet. Gigabit Ethernet requires all 4 pairs.

This job would be made easier with a Tone & Probe kit (also known as a Toner). Simply plug the tone generator into the phone jack in your office, then go down to the basement with the probe and use it to identify the correct pair of wires.



Once you identify the pair of wires, you're going to have to remove all 4 pairs of wires (BlueWhite/Blue, OrangeWhite/Orange, GreenWhite/Green, BrownWhite/Brown) from the patch panel (the thing you showed in the picture)

It looks like you've got plenty of wire there to work with. Instead of crimping an RJ-45 plug directly on to the wire (and definitely DO NOT just twist the wires together), I would recommend punching the wire down to a surface-mount RJ-45 jack like this one.

You'll need a punchdown tool like this

As far as the jack in the office, You'll need to replace that too. You'll probably need to replace the wall plate as well.

Edit to make more clear

Only IF you have only 2 pairs of wires in the office

Then punching down the RJ45 jacks is a bit trickier. You still follow the [TIA-568B standard] (http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/ethernetcables.html) but you leave the Blue and Brown wires out (Pins 4,5,7 and 8).

It's going to be a bit confusing because the colors of the wires won't necessarily match the chart. Just make sure that you punch down each end of the cable the same way. Remember, you'll only be punching down pins 1,2,3 and 6.

Hope that helps. Good luck! :)

u/PhysicsDude55 · 12 pointsr/Tools

What type of list would you be looking for? I have a spreadsheet with all the Knipex tools I own, and my wish list of tools I'm looking to buy when I find them at the right price, but I don't think that spreadsheet would be that useful to most people.


I work with shielded cable all the time at work. The Knipex Snips are great at stripping them. You can get the Knipex snips for about $20 if you look around. Check out the design on them and you'll see the little indention at the base of them which makes them really good at stripping stuff like shielded cable and Cat5/6.


for 18/2 or 22/4 shielded cable the #12 stripper slot on a regular pair of Klein strippers works really well. The Knipex automatic wire strippers are only designed for individual conductors, but they do a really good job of stripping every wire the exact same length which is really handy for terminating panels.


I have a pair of Irwin automatic strippers, and they do OK with stripping the jackets off cables, but overall I wasn't impressed with them and stopped carrying them at work. You might have good luck with them - they have good reviews.

u/d_paulson · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

  1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.

  2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.

  3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.

  4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.

  5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.

    Power Tools

  6. A Dremel

  7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.

  8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.

  9. A drill press

    Also, there are fluids to consider

  10. Simple Green

  11. Penetrating oil

  12. Wood Glue

  13. Mineral Spirits

  14. Linseed Oil

    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.
u/eclectro · 2 pointsr/fixit

If it was me, I would put the bike horizontal (but make sure this is ok fluid wise, and with the manufactuerr's instruction manual), and I would use PB blaster on it for a week. And I do mean a week, and the PB Blaster brand only. I know that some may say a week is a bit long, but I have found that an extended period of time helps, as the metal expands/cools a number of days helping to draw the catalyst in.

Then I would get a dremel with this cut off wheel and use it to "notch" the head of the screw as deep as I could without hurting the surrounding metal. Then I would go to the store and find a flat head bit that will fit an impact driver, and it needs to be "impact quality" and "hardened". The impact driver needs to have a high torque..

Then, make sure that whatever bit you have fits securely in the notch you have created, use the impact wrench to break it loose, perhaps far enough that you can get the vise grips on it and finish bringing the bolt out. If you have not used an impact driver before, you should get some wood screws and a block of wood and practice so you are comfortable with it and know what to expect.

Then clean and chase the threads with the appropriate tap. And use an anti seize compound when re-installing the bolts.

I prefer this to drilling out and retapping the screw because he can get an OEM replacement bolt that will fit perfectly and not worry about the fit of a different bolt. Also, this method is actually less laborious (in my opinion) and he can always drill out and re-tap the screw if this does not work (but chances are good that it will).

I think the welding suggestion would work also, but OP may not have a welder. And if the OP wanted, he could use a regular heat gun on it a number of times (with the PB blaster) to expand and help crack the corrosion.

u/adammdavidson · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

Well, ShitOnYourMom, the best way to get a start in whittling is to start. That may seem silly, but you'll need practice, and the acceptance that it will take a bit to get comfortable understanding the grain and learning to work with it. You'll need wood (I prefer green, unseasoned wood - as in directly from a living tree) and some basic tools. I'll give examples for someone on a budget, so that this will be relevant advice for anyone who may read it. Any small axe with a narrow profile and a blade you can choke up on will work. like this: http://www.knifecenter.com/item/CN4052C15/Condor-Tool-and-Knife-Woodworker-Axe-5-12-inch-Carbon-Steel-Head-American-Hickory-Handle-Leather-Sheath
I use this one (A Hans Karlsson sloyd axe):
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KoKxz2rDEAE/UfiKUo8EhhI/AAAAAAAAAK8/UMz87UUUEII/s1600/axe2.jpeg
And you'll need a knife or two. I suggest a Mora 120 or 106. The difference is the 106 has a longer blade. The longer blade allows you to take longer continuous cuts, while the shorter allows you to choke up and get finer detail work. Example: http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Carving-Knife-Laminated-1-9-Inch/dp/B004GATX62/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396873922&sr=8-2&keywords=mora+carving
I suggest the Mora knives because they're quite decent for the money.
You'll also want a hook knife if you'll be making spoons, cups, etc. You want to make sure you go quality on this one. A poorly designed and executed hook knife is unpleasant and ineffective to use.
I have one of these, and I enjoy it very much: http://www.deepwoodsventures.com/301spooncarver.html
Lastly, you'll need something for sharpening. I just went the route of buying decent tools that arrived razor sharp, and then used a leather strop to keep them sharp. Like this: http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/8-Leather-Bench-Strop-P263C11.aspx
The strop should have some honing compound rubbed on it. I use jeweler's rouge. You can easily make a strop from some tanned leather. Now that I've listed all of that, you just need some inspiration, some knowledge, and some patience. You can find the first two of these in this giant list:

Good luck, and feel free to PM me or post more questions. The reason I share photos of my work (and the work in person) is to inspire others to pursue crafts. The world needs as much art and craft as possible.
-Adam

u/video_descriptionbot · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette
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Title | Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool
Description | Fasttech Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool for Rebuildable Atomizers https://www.fasttech.com/p/1926001 stainless steel / 1.5mm + 2.0mm + 2.5mm + 3.0mm + 3.5mm sections SKU 1926001
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SECTION | CONTENT
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Title | UD Coil Jig V3 - Demonstration
Description | UD Coil Jig V3 http://www.vapetime.co.uk This is a quick demonstration of the Coil Jig V3 by Youde Technology. For more information please visit: http://www.vapetime.co.uk/ud-coil-jig-v3/ If you have any questions please do not hesitate to call, contact us or leave a comment. We are always happy to help :)
Length | 0:04:00


SECTION | CONTENT
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Title | Quick and Effective coil build for RDA atomizers
Description | ::EDIT:: It's a good idea to check your resistance ( ohms ) BEFORE you attempt to glow and fiddle with your coils. The resistance will change as your coils get more even. So check before, then check again after. Thanks. Hey everyone! If i'm being 100% honest. I mostly shot this video for my brother who recently got into the world of rebuilding. He was really struggling with it. Rebuilding has become such second nature to me that I often forget how it feels to be building for the first time and that sense of frustration that sets in quickly. So hopefully some other people will find this video helpful. Rebuilding honestly just takes practice and patience. ANYONE can do a solid simple build that will produce both great flavor and large clouds ( if you want ) The build in this video came out to 0.3ohms, which will work great on a mech mod, or on a higher wattage regulated device like the Sigelei 150w or iStick 50w I used 24g Kanthal, 6 wraps around a 2.5mm screwdriver. Below I have links to most everything I used in this video. Including some "beginner friendly" RDA atomizers. Precision screw drivers http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336275&sr=8-1&keywords=precision+screwdriver+set&pebp=1435336344707&perid=1M11EBNKQ3Z63A7B0VQ8 Wire Clippers http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336368&sr=8-1&keywords=Wire+Clippers 24g Kanthal http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Lightning-Vapes-Kanthal-Resistance/dp/B00JWYIHLY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336391&sr=8-1&keywords=Kanthal&pebp=1435336399204&perid=0Q2SHF5N87Q64YJT5F9E Organic Japanese Cotton http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Organic-Cotton-Organic-unbleached-Largest/dp/B00P219C5Q Unfortunately the VapeKit has been discontinued. They are doing a V2 kit, but in the meantime check this one out http://www.coil-master.net/product/diy-kit Some good RDA's for new builders IMO Mutation X V4 http://www.vapordna.com/Project-Sub-Ohm-Designed-Mutation-X-V4-RDA-p/psmxv4.htm The Mako http://www.beyondvape.com/store/import-cat-c-1_2/beyond-vape-mako-rda-p-1927.html The IMP http://www.empiremods.com/product_p/youdimp.htm Thanks so much for watching everyone! hope this is helpful. Feel free to follow me on Instagram http://instagram.com/grimmgreen/ Twitter https://twitter.com/GrimmGreen Facebook https://www.facebook.com/GrimmGreen Also please remember that unless you make it so I can reply to you. I will be un-able to reply to your comments.
Length | 0:22:32






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u/smallbatchb · 1 pointr/knifeclub

The Mora carving knife is an absolute classic and works wonderfully. It's not the prettiest thing but it really works.

I do a lot of carving and frequently use:

Basically any Mora (the red, wood handled classic is a great option too)

Helle: Odel (not a traditional carver but I love using it)

Kellam: Puukko

Enzo: Trapper (a bit beefier than a usual carving knife choice but works quite well)

Bark River: Bravo EDC (again not a traditional option but I really love carving with this thing)

A small Ahti puukko

A small and medium Wood Jewel puukko


Another idea that might be fun is get him a couple of the small Lauri puukko blades and he can carve his own handle, drill a hole and epoxy it on. Just a thought. The Lauri blades are wildly affordable and the smaller thinner ones make amazing little carving knives.

u/rudekoffenris · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Damn I didn't see the second and third pictures duh! So if you use that panel I showed you from amazon (or one like it, there's a lot of wires there) this may be a better choice.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Wallmount-Compatible-TC-P24C6/dp/B0000AZK72/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=patch+panel+wall+mount&qid=1550278079&s=gateway&sr=8-7

This panel will work with cat5 or cat6, I can't tell what type of wiring you have there but you'll need that

You'll also need some way to mount it on the wall, I used one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Hinged-Bracket-N060-004/dp/B000E887XU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=patch+panel+wall+mount&qid=1550278079&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Now with the patch panel, you don't need to put ends on the wire. You use a punch down tool and they go into little clip type things. It makes more sense if you look at the pictures. Here is a punch down tool:

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=punch+down+tool&qid=1550278185&s=gateway&sr=8-5

you're gonna need some patch cables to run from the patch panel to a switch. You're also gonna need a switch down there to connect all the ethernet cables together.

To mount the switch, you're gonna need a rack mount (to look the nicest, and a 19" rack switch).

A nice mount I used is this: https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Vertical-Mountable-Server-Hardware/dp/B01M151AOJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=vertical+rack+mount&qid=1550278400&s=gateway&sr=8-4

and then a switch, something like this (which I picked more or less at random) https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-LGS124-Rackmount-Unmanaged-Enclosure/dp/B00H1OQBLA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rack+mount+switch&qid=1550278467&s=gateway&sr=8-3 will do the job quite well. It's a gigabit unamanaged switch. You can spend a lot more if you want to, but this will probably do the job.

So from there, you need a cable from switch to that box in the first picture with the ethernet ports on the back.

That will give you wired internet in the whole house. Adding access points from there is trivial.

I know it's a lot of information, feel free to ask anything.

Edit: That verizon box in picture 3 looks like it might be more than just a modem, it might be a modem/router. If that's the case you can plug that into the switch. But if it's just a modem, that won't work even tho the ethernet port will physically connect. The best way to tell is that if it only has one ethernet port, then it's just a modem, if it has more than 1 then it's a modem/router.

u/GavinsMugger · 10 pointsr/povertyfinance

Every job I've had has been blue collar, or at least a mix of field and office work. Currently, I'm a woodworker, so I'm sure you can imagine how often things like splinters are a thing. I first started carrying the emergency knife when I worked at a climbing wall. It was there to cut a harness or potentially even a rope in the event of extreme emergency, but it was/is also good to have in case of a car accident or something (window breaker and seat belt cutter). I'm thankful that I've never had to use it. And that's what a lot of my gear is for. Things I want to have ready to use, while hoping I never do.

Emergency knife This isn't the one I actually have, but it's similar enough. You can find this same design in a multitude of places, at all different price points.

Normal use I also have a cheap little $6 Ozark Trail one that I've used for around 12 years or so. Long as you care for your knife, it will last and serve you well. You don't have to have a top-of-the-line one. I do greatly prefer the single-hand operation ones, though. They have the little pin near the base of the blade so that you can just slide it open with your thumb. And I usually prefer the liner lock, which allows you to unlock the blade with your thumb, and close it with your forefinger. With enough regular use, it all becomes one swift motion that you don't even think about

Swiss army knife I was gifted mine and likely wouldn't have bought it on my own, but I found myself very appreciative of it and think it's worth the money. If mine gets lost, broken, or whatever, I'll likely buy a replacement.

Bonus! Gerber multitool This has been on my key ring for 6 years. I use it almost daily, and think it is probably one of the best EDC purchases I have ever made.

u/joelav · 8 pointsr/woodworking

If you decide to go the hand tool route, money and space are a lot less of a concern. Rather than throw out hypotheticals, I'll give you some examples of tools you can actually buy right now:

Panel saw. Yeah, 10 bucks. It's actually a nice saw too. The only issue is the teeth cannot be sharpened - but it's 10 bucks. Use this for breaking down big stock into smaller stock

Back Saw. Also 10 bucks. Same as above. Disposable but cheap and will last a long time (it's disposable because the teeth have been hardened). This is for precision cross cuts and cutting tenons.

Dovetail/fine joinery saw. 25 bucks plus a 3 dollar xx slim double taper saw file to make it not suck.

Now for some planes. These may seem kind of pricey for "broke" status, but these aren't POS-get-you-by planes. These are lifetime tools. To get something comparable new, you are looking at 150.00 to 300.00 a piece. You can get better deals by bidding on some planes, but these are all "buy it now"

Stanley #4. Needs some love but that's a good user for 30 bucks.

Stanley #5 for 42$

Stanley #7. 90 bucks.

Pick up a 4 dollar card scraper too.

Chisels

Narex $36. Use one of these and a block of wood to make yourself a router plane also.

Combination square 10 bucks.

A cordless drill of some sort and some bits (assuming you have one already)

70 bucks in 2x12's so you can make a knock down Nicholson style workbench which doesn't need vises. When you are done working, break it down and put it in the closet.

35 bucks for a pair of holdfasts from Gramercy

30 bucks worth of F style clamps from harbor freight will get you started there.

14 bucks to get sharp (not at all ideal but completely workable on a budget)

So for 410.00 or the price of a decent sander and miter saw, you can make literally anything in a small space with a small amount of localized dust. The trade off of course it time and labor.

Down the road you are definitely want to get some better saws, maybe some specialty planes, different chisels, some better measuring/marking equipment. But this will more than get you started.

u/RealityMan_ · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Personally, i'd opt for this instead of that tp-link plastic one. It's a few bucks more, but has a great track record.

http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-GS105NA-Prosafe-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347764&sr=1-3&keywords=5+port+gigabit

The CMR looks good, though monoprice wire is cheaper for the same quality (spend some of that difference on the metal 5 port gige switch I pointed out above):

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1000-Feet-500Mhz-Copper-Ethernet/dp/B008I8AJIY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347852&sr=1-1&keywords=monoprice+cat+6+cmr

I would also recommend against crimping your own cables. Solid core is not meant for crimping. Patch cables are super cheap, are certified for the speed, and in most cases save you time and money vs crimping your own.

Get this punchdown tool, it has both 110 and krohn. A lot of punchdowns are universal, and with those, the krohn works better.

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459348192&sr=1-1&keywords=trendnet+punch+down+tool

Source: I built this and wired my house to 1GigE

https://imgur.com/9vhZYS1

u/dbmeed · 1 pointr/EDC

A good pen is a must. Something solid and comfortable that fits you, and you like the way it writes. A flashlight is always useful-I would recommend something like a Thrunite Ti4 or Ti5. After that, I would suggest some kind of pocket knife/multitool if you can-in my area I could carry multiple and noone would bat an eye, but if you are in an area where knives are a not allowed, try something along the lines of a SOG Powerlock or Leatherman Style

Those are what I would consider the basics, after that its really up to you. A nice watch would not be remiss, or a decent wallet. When I was in highschool, I carried a dry-erase marker that got used a lot. Another thing would be a nice high capacity USB drive, to store files on, or programs. Make sure you back it up though if you are going to use it for any school projects.

If you have training(or even if you dont) it would be a good idea to get a first aid kit, and maybe pocket mask to through in your backpack, along with a roll of duct tape.

Lastly, The one thing that I would suggest would be a good book. You never know when you might be waiting awhile, done work, in a boring assembly, etc. where a good book is nice to have. I always had one in a cargo pocket all through school.

u/jda404 · 114 pointsr/PS4

It's not a standard screwdriver, you'll need a torx TR9 security screwdriver I believe, they are cheap. I have heard of people using small flat heads and having success but for best and easiest results get the torx. I clean my PS4 every 6 months it's a launch day console and still pretty quiet.

I bought this set for 15 bucks a few years ago love it comes in handy for electronics and small screws Amazon link.

u/mach_z3ro_x · 2 pointsr/electricians

I have the Compact Milwaukee and am not a fan; the blade comes loose all the time, especially when doing things like cutting drywall or removing wire insulation. I have used the Fastback Milwaukee though with good results, it’s just a lot bigger and doesn’t feel as good in the hands. I’ve owned 1 of the Compact, 0 of the Fastback.

The Klein pocket knife looking one is garbage for doing actual work with. I’ve owned 1 of these.

I have a SOG Flash 2 w/ serrations that I love but it’s my EDC and doesn’t live in my tool bag. Super sharp and the serrations slice though sheathing like hot butter. I’ve owned 4 of these.

I have a smaller one, a skelotonized Gerber w/ Lenox blades that I love as well. That one does live in my tool bag and is used all the time. The Lenox gold blades are amazing. I’ve owned 1 of these.

Milwaukee Compact

Milwaukee Fastback

Klein Electricians Knife

Sog Flash II

Gerber EAB Lite

u/joebobcooter · 11 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Can't really tell from this picture, but alot of times, it looks like ethernet, but it ends up not being terminated correctly, or setup for something like voice only or some other non-standard thing.

If it were me, I'd make a small investment in the following;

  1. Some sort of cable tester - everyone has their favorite - look for one that can show you whether all the pairs are setup properly - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-LinkMaster-UTP-STP-Wiremapper-and-Tester-62-200/100091453

    If you are lucky, whomever setup that panel wired it correctly, and the runs will test out. If you are not lucky, you'll need to take the next step and fix it yourself. This will require some more stuff;
  2. a standard punch-down panel - something like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067SC6/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bKkaDD_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=FGVJTXZ791HS9C3BHHBB&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=b40f1c79-82d3-5987-b1fd-b5c357ef4906&pf_rd_i=306629011
  3. A punch-down tool - either a cheap one (https://www.amazon.com/CMPLE-Punch-Stripper-Voice-Cables/dp/B00NR2Z6MA/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982800&sr=1-5&keywords=punch+down+tool) or one that is a little more robust (https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982800&sr=1-3&keywords=punch+down+tool)

    There are many tutorials on the web on how to terminate Ethernet - essentially, you're going to need to make sure that the wires are terminated properly on the punch panel (in your living room) to the specifics on the keystone jack at the far end. Most likely, the jack at the far end looks something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Keystone-Ethernet-Compatible-Connector/dp/B014RAT7ZC/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982947&sr=1-6&keywords=keystone+jack

    If you get the connectivity right, and that cable has all the pairs (8), you should be able to connect, and be on the road.

    Not sure where you are located, but usually Fry's or MicroCenter is a good place to source these tools.

    Holler back if you need more info.
u/Gullex · 3 pointsr/Survival

$150 is plenty of budget for a good knife. This one is just slightly over that budget but will last you the rest of your life. It's kind of my dream survival knife.

The Fallkniven F1 is very popular as well and right in your price range.

Currently I use this knife which is also very good.

If you want to go a little less expensive still, Becker makes some good ones such as the Bk16. I know the Becker doesn't look anything like "hand made", but I have the BK2- I used paint remover to take the black coating off the blade, replaced the plastic handles with micarta and stained it to look more like wood, and built a leather sheath for it. It's a beautiful knife now. Too bad it's so goddamn heavy.

You could also go with something like the Mora bushcraft. I have that one also, very decent knife.

You could even just get a regular Mora or a Condor bushlore which are even more economical options.

u/pyrowopr · 2 pointsr/EDC

First off, many of these things are intentionally cheap, because I do tend to break and/or lose things, so... Here goes.
All have Amazon links, because that was what was easiest.


Jewelry:

u/crackills · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

>Personally, i'd opt for this instead of that tp-link plastic one. It's a few bucks more, but has a great track record.
http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-GS105NA-Prosafe-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347764&sr=1-3&keywords=5+port+gigabit

Same guts? I picked the plastic... cus Im cheap but mostly because I think the front ports look sloppy in a HT cabinet or on a desk.

>The CMR looks good, though monoprice wire is cheaper for the same quality (spend some of that difference on the metal 5 port gige switch I pointed out above):
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1000-Feet-500Mhz-Copper-Ethernet/dp/B008I8AJIY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347852&sr=1-1&keywords=monoprice+cat+6+cmr

Thanks! swapped for monoprice

>I would also recommend against crimping your own cables. Solid core is not meant for crimping.

ok then, I really wasn't looking forward to crimping a dozen cable but I felt like Ill have so much cat6 it would be a waste not to make my own.

>Get this punchdown tool, it has both 110 and krohn. A lot of punchdowns are universal, and with those, the krohn works better.
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459348192&sr=1-1&keywords=trendnet+punch+down+tool

So what your saying is most of these keytones labeled 110 will except a krohn style punch? Id like minimize my cost and the 110/66 punch I linked is basically in my hands, its still worth going with this other tool?

So should I bother with the crimper/rj45 ends at all? Just buy a pack of 3ft patch cables and be done with it?

>Source: I built this and wired my house to 1GigE
https://imgur.com/9vhZYS1

nice rack (giggity)

u/Gezzer52 · 1 pointr/hamstercare

Actually, if you read the reviews it's been universally rejected for hamster use. Seems that every user has had the hamster escape from it. I think it's meant to be a guinea pig cage.

I actually made my own bin cages and then connected them to an OvO habitrail system. but be warned I spent a fair amount of money by the time I was done. I don't know what your budget is, but making a bin cage (another DIY vid ) ends up costing around 25-50 bucks, and it 's pretty easy. This is the one I've used when I made my bin cages. It ends up at around 400 sq inches which is good. The nice thing is that since it's plastic it's dead easy to cut a round hole in it to add tubes.

If DIY really isn't your thing I guess this is the pre built cage I'd choose. There are a few questions about durability, you need to change the water bottle to a safer one, and it can only connect to the manufacturer's tube system, which isn't cheap. but neither were the OvO tubes.

There are much more expensive cages as well. You can spend easily 200-300 on a nice prebuilt. Or even make one out of a Ikea bookcase. Lastly if you do decide to build a bin cage I suggest you buy or see if you can borrow a dremel tool. It makes the whole job much easier than using any sort of knife.

u/troglodyte · 3 pointsr/whitewater

Seriously, replace them for your boat kit. There's a lot of overlap with rock climbing, and any safe climber will tell you that exhausted gear like this should be retired from your active kit because someone might inadvertently use it.

I know the situations where you'll need a 23kN carabiner on the river are vanishingly small, but you don't want to risk it. Corrosion is insidious, too, and you might not be able to tell how much strength has been lost by visual inspection. If you've got a biner on the river or crag, it should be able to be used for all original purposes (even if it's marked) so that you don't accidentally use a bad biner in a critical situation.

If you're going for non-survival use, PB Blaster is insanely useful, as any mechanic working on cars in cold-weather climates can tell you.

Conceivably, if you're a dab hand with a blowtorch, heat and vicegrips could get the job done, but you really, really, really can't use them for anything safety related if you do that.

Read up on freeing stuck bolts on cars; I think it's your best bet. Don't use those biners in your gearbag, though.

u/HarvardCock · 1 pointr/subaru

alot of this is dependent on your model, but to give you a rough idea...

the most important tool you can own is a copy of the Factory Service Manual for your car, it can make fixing any part of the car 10x easier, and gives you torque specs for almost everything so you dont wreck your car. Subaru uses aluminum engine blocks, and over torquing will strip the threads from the block, or if you're really unlucky you can crack the block or head leaving you with a 3,300lb paperweight.

99% of fasteners are Metric, common sizes are 8, 10, 12, 14, and 17mm. there are also some 19, 21, and 23mm but they're less common. If you do any engine work you'll want a 14mm 12-point to remove the head bolts. If you need to split your short block, those are 12mm 12-point i think...

changing the engine oil will require a normal 17mm socket, but if you feel like changing manual transmission or rear diff oil you'll need a Torx T70 bit. (im doing mine this weekend) thats about $10 on amazon

If you plan on doing any engine/timing belt work, consider getting a set of cam/crank pulley tools. they're specific to Subaru and its nearly impossible to get the timing belt pulley's and harmonic balancer torqued correctly without them. There are a few different tools for different pulleys, each is about $50. you can find them here and on amazon.

I'm not sure about older models, but the fuel line that connects to the intake manifold on my subie has a quick-disconnect that requires a special tool to remove, you can remove the fuel line in other locations, but its nearly always a pain in the ass to get it back on and will risk damaging a hose. this is only really needed if you think you'll ever remove the intake manifold or plan to pull the engine at any point.

Other than that...

Breaker bars are great, especially for head bolts, brakes, and oil drain plugs

Feeler Gauges for checking tolerances

If you jack up the car, throw some jack stands under there for redundancy so if your jack slips, you aren't killed (this happens, alot.)

a compressor, impact wrench, blowgun, air ratchet, and some impact sockets can be infinitely useful, but know when to use them and when not to use them.

a good set of torque wrenches is always good, the torque specs on subarus are anywhere from 3.6ft/lbs to something like 136 ft/lbs. Amazon has some pretty good ones which cover this range... i bought this, this and this

im sure i can come up with more, if i do i'll add them as an edit. If you can give me an idea of what you plan on doing maintainance-wise, maybe we can give you an idea on what you'll need/expect

u/npnerd · 1 pointr/SoundSystem

I'm thinking it's doable for around $1,000. Thanks for asking /r/ZeosPantera!

----

What about using basically a karaoke system? Would that work for my needs? It's not going to be the high quality kind of thing you guys normally talk about here, but it may fit what we want.

If so, the best seem to be the Roland B-55 (Amazon link) or the Hisonic PA-687S. They only support two wireless mics at a time, but I could probably make that work. The key reason why I like them is because they support line out. Which I could then plug into a computer via an adapter (like the Behringer UFO202 Audio Interface). I honestly don't know if this would actually work though.

Could I use a mic/amp and audio interface setup like this as audio for software like Skype? I just don't want to spend this much money and find it doesn't work.

^Edit: ^Added ^the ^second ^amp/speaker ^option

u/sharkamino · 2 pointsr/vinyl

The Schitt Mani RF Interference issue does seem to exist, however it may be a minor amount of incidences. It will be interesting to know Schitts reply if you get one.

The Fluance PA10 was just released a few days ago, so no reviews yet. Their stuff is good and I don't see why the preamp wouldn't be. They have 30 day returns and shipping is free both ways so you may as well try it.

Don't bother replacing the DJPREII with the GOgroove. They are both geared towards the entry level DJ pro audio market, not the budget audiophile for home audio. Sure they work ok, but for $20 to $30 more get something that should be better for the RT82. The OM10 is a good cart, it is the previous generation to the 2M Red. Besides the Fluance PA10, you can get a used U-turn Pluto for $70 from the reputable AudioAdvice.com through Amazon. Mine arrived in the original box and looks and works as good as new.

A super low budget phono stage/preamp with a headphone jack is the Behringer U-Phono UFO202 Audiophile USB/Audio Interface with Built-in Phono Preamp $30. It will also allow you to record vinyl to computer via USB. Probably not very good, but it will work as a very temporary setup until you get a better $70+ phono preamp and $100+ headphone amp.

Another option for a headphone amp is an AMP and DAC (for your computer) combo. [z]GUIDE[s] \\\ DAC & AMP COMBOS Starting at $40.

Some other low budget headphone amps:

u/PhenomenalDouche · 3 pointsr/Woodcarving

Seriously consider an inexpensive Mora or two (I'd recommend the Mora 120 or Mora 122 or both) as a great starting place.

You won't know what you want until you noodle around a bit, so skip buying a great custom carving knife (though when you do, let me recommend Deepwoods Ventures as another solid option).

Play around with an inexpensive knife or two and figure out all the usual questions. What handle makes you happy? Are you a chip carver? What blade shape makes you happy? Is relief carving really your thing? Etc.

Also, don't let some random Internet nut try to tell you there are any hard and fast rules to how you should spend your time.

u/gritsgear · 3 pointsr/EDC

I have the regular EAB,

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-EAB-Pocket-Knife-22-41830/dp/B0016KHW2W

The design is ultra simplistic and really attractive. I am a trim carpenter so I don't usually wear a tool belt, (I can't have tools accidentally hitting cabinets) so this knife always rides in the little pocket of my jeans without ever being felt. If I need to do excessive cutting then I will bring a larger knife but for the smaller random tasks having a knife on you all the time is necessary and this does that perfectly. Holds the blades tight with a screw and is surprisingly not bad to open one handed. It's nearly perfectly flat and looks like a luggage tag. If the practicality isn't enough for you I challenge you to find a more attractive utility knife.

u/ZedHunter666 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Stay away from pallets please, cough up some money and some time (if you go to a box store) getting some okay dimensional lumber for projects.

If you decide to go the hand tool route, I've got all sorts of info and what not, I'd share. (Im a historical furniture maker's apprentice, I like to think I've got some decent knowledge) I've included a list here if thats the route you go.

Used this list for a couple posts, its about $200ish in all to get you started. This list uses chisels in lieu of say a router plane for dados and doesn't have an option for grooves but that's later down the road. I've got a big enthusiast list as well if you'd be interested.

> Crosscut/Ripsaw: Irwin Double Sided Pullsaw https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-Double-Edge-9-5-Inch-213103/dp/B0001GLEZ8
>
Joinery Saw - I think this is the one Japanese saw I own? works okay https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=pd_sbs_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001DSY7G6&pd_rd_r=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH&pd_rd_w=16INj&pd_rd_wg=gFI50&psc=1&refRID=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH
> Chisels https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302108&sr=1-1&keywords=narex+chisels
>
Marking Gauge https://www.amazon.com/Crown-135-Marking-Gauge-Beech/dp/B00EC9AOZQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZBYMV8TF850C6M5JDGDG
> Bevel Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC2NYKS?psc=1
>
Mallet - I'd personally make one or buy a used one (of heavier wood, good grain and quality construction.) Amazon has some though. https://www.amazon.com/Narex-gram-Beech-Carving-Mallet/dp/B00L7BQL54/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302341&sr=1-11&keywords=mallet
> Combination square -does the work of several sizes of squares for the price of one - https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302407&sr=1-2&keywords=square
>
A No 4 or 5 sized plane - I buy old Stanley's/Bailey's because they're great, and usually cheap for bench planes - Flea Market/Antique stores/ebay -$20 ish --- Amazon also sells new (I give no guarantee on quality however) - https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-404-Adjustable-2-Inch-Cutter/dp/B000FK3WI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302507&sr=1-1&keywords=stanley+plane
> "Workbench" - temporary thing to hold pieces while you make dovetails - https://www.amazon.com/WM125-Workmate-350-Pound-Capacity-Portable/dp/B000077CQ0/ref=pd_cart_vw_2_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CA9X21QD5D7QAXKMGE6S
>
Woodscrew clamp, used to clamp peice to workbench while chiseling waste - https://www.amazon.com/ATE-Pro-USA-30143-Handscrew/dp/B0006A4A5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499303583&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+screw+clamp
>
> Other than clamps, glue, mortice gauge, etc, this is good enough to get you started making carcass (dovetailed) pieces of furniture, like a shoe cubby or bookshelf.
>
> Thats around $200 for getting you started. Add a mortise chisel and mortise gauge and you can start mortise and tenon work. Invest in pipe clamps when you reach a glue up point.

u/ThePiratesPeople · 1 pointr/ffxiv

It may need cleaning, or if it’s a pro and has reflective surfaces enabled (I think that’s the setting) or other Pro settings turned on it can add some more strain initially loading things in.

Mine was doing the same, clleaning out the PS4 of all the dust helped tremendously. It still gets somewhat loud, but not nearly so bad, with the Pro settings enabled at first, but then dies down.

To clean it you need some tools. These are what I used. ORIA Screwdriver Set, Magnetic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E16J6RQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Also I really recommend not just stopping at cleaning the fan, but getting all the way down to the heat sink. That can get clogged really badly with dust. I never thought about it until my PS4 kept shutting off due to overheating when playing God of War and the new Spider-Man. Once I got the heat sink cleaned I saw a ton of improvement and it stopped shutting down. Now I just make sure to clean it every 4-6 months and keep the side vents well dusted every week.

Hope that helps. :)

u/annihilatedremedy · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

So according to that picture, if they wired it according to the color coding, it's 568A, so if you were to wire it up yourself, make sure the OnQ side is 568A as well to save yourself 50% of the work. But all depends if they did the blue, orange, green, brown pairs accordingly, which I'd assume they would to make their life easier.

If you were to get an 8 port Cat5E patch panel, you're going to need a punchdown tool in order to get the wires hooked up to said patch panel. It isn't hard by any means, and there are tons of videos on Youtube about terminating ethernet cables into rj45 jacks as well as onto patch panels. It isn't rocket science by any means, and depending on your comfort level and if you want to buy what you'd need (watch youtube videos first, maybe you'll find terminating rj45's directly to plug into your switch to be your cup of tea), that might be a MUCH cheaper route than getting someone out there to do it. Maybe you have a friend that can assist, if they are into networking.

But absolutely, Cat5E is Cat5E, be it used for POTS (telephone) or home networking, it's the same media, just how it's terminated on both ends is what matters.

Here is an example of an 8 port Cat5E patch panel. It has color codings for 568A and 568B (in your pic above, 568A per the wall plate, if wired correctly):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVZVUBO


Punch Down Tool w/ cutter (be careful when using that you pay attention which end the blade is so you don't cut the wrong side of the punch!):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E58M5EG

This is just to hopefully give you an idea of what to search on Youtube for information. Glad to help, just research and research before tackling it yourself, but this isn't something that is going to be super difficult, but also don't want to see someone charge you $500 to do this job!

Good luck, and it's always fun to learn a new skill!

u/foggymountainman · 1 pointr/typewriters

I guess it would be the Penetrating Catalyst. Down in the corner of the front it will have "Part No. 16 PB" http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E. This stuff has worked wonders on my Clipper and it didn't take much. I was told and highly recommend that you should do this outside in a place where is plenty of ventilation. I carefully removed all the screws from the covers and replaced them in the chassis so I wouldn't get mixed up later (I tend to lose things). Following mrtopcons warning I wrapped the platen several times with aluminum foil as a mask. I placed a pair of old jeans on the floor of my garage to soak the oily runoff. I worked near the door. I sprayed and worked each type bar free, being careful to protect the platen. After I freed all the bars I let it sit 'til evening and carefully blew out any excess penetrant with air and then wiped off the rest. I let it air out for a few days on my patio table in the morning and back into the garage at night (also to double check the bars). I never had to respray it after the first day. After about 4 days of airing out I brought it inside, reassembled it and now I love my "new" Smith-Corona! This product is fantastic. I just got a '40 Royal KMM last week whose bars were completely immobilized by years of rust (dog hair and God knows what else). I vacuumed it out http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BSJCLY/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and took it outside to the garage. Within 15 minutes of spraying and patiently working each key (respraying when necessary) I got all the type bars COMPLETELY freed up. I was amazed. Good luck and let me know how it goes!

u/napping1 · 1 pointr/Vaping101

26ga kanthal

Cotton

Screwdriver set

Ohm reader

Velocity clone by tobecco

Pliers

That's about $60 bucks after shipping, and gets you pretty much everything you need.

You can opt for higher quality things. There's some great coil jig sets out there for about $15, which basically make coils for you. Theres higher quality cotton, better kanthal but this is a good basic setup. It's what I use, at least.

You'll see a lot of people vouching for the velocity clone, its a great RDA with a lot of room to build on.

As far as what mod you want? That's tough. That's a whole other conversation. I can tell you what I use, and what I like about them, though.

I use a Sigelli 150 TC, it's a dual 18650 box mod with temp control, I have two Samsung 25r's that have been "married" since I got them, and live in my mod. My Velocity usually sits on top of it. I use this set up at home, and try new builds on it.

My on the go set up is a Smok xcube mini box mod single 18650, with a royal hunter mini on top. I make sure to build around .3 to .4 on this set up, and stay in a safe range for the single battery. Using an online ohms law calculator, I'm vaping a .38 build at 40 watts. Which is drawing 10a from my battery that's rated for 20a.

u/justfred · 4 pointsr/BuyItForLife

There are so many knives and pocket tools, and what you like depends on how you're going to use it and what your general aesthetic is.

Trimming nails? Opening envelopes? Tightening screws? Cutting wire? Peeling oranges? Fending off wolverines?

Wood? Steel? Plastic?

Tell us what you want to use it for, and what material you prefer.

Here are a few of my favorites:

Great combination of tools, including good phillips:

https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Rambler-Pocket-Knife/dp/B000FNFXQS

Great wire clippers/strippers; good other tools:

https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Squirt®-Es4-Multi-Tool-Blue/dp/B0032Y4ITU

Classic three blade wood:

https://www.amazon.com/Buck-Knives-0371BRS-Stockman-Woodgrain/dp/B000EHYZNC

Classic metal:

https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1600-Chive/dp/B0009VC9RW

Great small tool with a clip and good scissors:

https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Style®-Multi-Tool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0032XVNMQ

u/MordIV · 3 pointsr/CampingGear

I really like my mora with the fire steel on the sheath. Amazon shows its for $65 now, but I think it's cheaper at times. Mine was a gift for Christmas that a buddy got me and I think it was on a great sale. Super sharp, thick enough blade for prepping fire wood and shaving kindling.

I ended up getting a tek-lok from blade tech to attach the knife to my belt more securely.

Of course the $15 moras are a super great deal too. Heck, get a thicker one for your fire wood needs and a smaller one for your carving desires.

Morakniv Bushcraft Carbon Steel Survival Knife with Fire Starter and Sheath, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFI8TOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_pdW9wbVAXQSEE

u/bolts-n-bytes · 1 pointr/Knife_Swap

Sure thing! I’m happy to help! Of course, these are my opinions and experience. Some say “learn to freehand sharpen!” But that’s rough starting out and takes a long time depending if you have a knack for it. It’s easy to do well for 10 minutes, then screw up for 10 seconds and nullify all the progress you’d made. Stropping has made me get a little better feel for what freehanding would be like. When you strop, you want to be at a little less than the angle of the edge. Too shallow and you’re not honing the apex. Too steep and you’re rounding off the apex. Strop away not towards the edge, but to find the right angle see where the edge starts to bite the leather and decrease the angle a bit - that’s the right angle.

Yeah, I’d say either get that $5 oil I linked or just use the KPL. I agree about food - as long as you’re not over applying the oil, it’ll probably never get near or into the food.

If you get a strop and a lanksy turnbox, you’d be $35-40 invested and could go a long way.

Oh, and you also need a screwdriver kit if you don’t have one - more specifically, torque bits. Nick shabazz’s teardown videos have helped me many times. I really like this one for the price:
ORIA Precision Screwdriver Kit, 60 in 1 with 56 Bits Screwdriver Set, Magnetic Driver Kit with Flexible Shaft, Extension Rod for Mobile Phone, Smartphone, Game Console, Tablet, PC, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pEjlDbHEPSHKV

u/awesomeisluke · 1 pointr/edmproduction

Behringer UFO202 is only $40 but honestly it's a piece of junk.

302USB for $50 might be a little better. Never used it so I couldn't tell you.

This Lexicon Alpha unit for $60 looks decent for the price. Has balanced TRS outputs as well as a couple of inputs. Again, never used it so not sure how good it is.

Here's the thing, you bought a great pair of studio monitors, but any of these three options will likely output less than the potential quality of those Rokits. I really recommend spending the extra money on something comparable to the Audiobox I mentioned in my first comment to get the most out of your investment. If not, that third link would be my next choice. TRS will provide better quality than an RCA connection, hands down.

To find more options, just look up "audio interface." Add "usb", "firewire" etc to get more specific results based on your setup.

u/Tervlon · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

The Plano 5231 is where I would start. I have several that I keep mine in (my collection is rather large). The top section will accommodate all the ship tokens, the gameplay tokens and templates & obstacles. The inside will easily fit all that you have along with the dials and damage deck with plenty of room to spare. I am storing complete conversion kit cardboard and a majority of the small ships in the boxes. Adding a bunch of large ships to the collection may present an issue eventually, but you can fit a YT-1300 + another large ship without issues. The Ghost does not fit in the box unfortunately.


Edit: The prices on Amazon for the red plano are not great right now though.



The HDX interlocking series is pretty great, too. The containers lock together making it easy to add to the collection as needed and they are easy to carry. These can accommodate the bigger ships like the Ghost, too. maybe go with this. The price is good, too.

​

u/Naima_ · 6 pointsr/FL_Studio

Play around with it. I found FL studio pretty intuitive. Theres a number of good "FL Studio for beginner" videos on youtube. The way i learned things was by googling for an answer after 5 or 10 minutes of fiddling around with no luck...couldn't figure out the most efficient way to sample? I'd just youtue "how to sample in FL Studio" and i've been using said method since then.

I'm pretty sure there is a $200-$300 version of FL studio that has most of what i you use/will use.

I've only ever mixed in FL studio, imo, my tracks come out well enough that they don't require mastering.

You either need Jam origin or a decent mic to record guitar. I had a friend use a vocal mic and play his acoustic guitar into the mic. He sound proofed the area and made sure the apartment was quiet. Again, jam origin works.

Estimating all costs, you'd could get everything you need for $350 maybe? FL Studio, a basic sound interface (Basic as in this, used Akai MPK, and either a decent small pair of studio monitors or studio headphones (The $30 AKGs from Guitar Center will work for now_

u/schmin · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This would come in handy as he moves out of The Old Apartment, but TSA took it away, and he was proud and happy about it! =3

And you're silly VKTI -- you give so much to this community, you don't need to do contests, but thank you! =)

u/JimmyJuice · 2 pointsr/knives

I wouldn't limit myself to just metal handled folders, because most quality knives use metal liners with some sort of plastic scales such as G10 or FRN. They are very strong and give you a nice grip if the texturing is done right.

In that price range, and NOT a plastic handle, check out the Kershaw Blur S30V. It has Aluminum handles with grippy inserts and a sexy stonewashed S30V blade. It is on the larger side of EDC knives, but it is very thin and feels great carrying.

If you want to step outside your love of metal handles, I would recommend the following in that price range; Benchmade Mini-Griptilian(556), or regular Griptilian(551) if you want something bigger. Spyderco Delica FFG, or Endura if you want something bigger.

u/johnsassar · 2 pointsr/handtools

I can't comment on the ones in your pic, but I bought the ones above it (you can just barely see the bottom of them) and it was not worth the $10 or whatever I spent. They are softer metal and now essentially garbage for me. I next bought the Stanley Sweetheart 4 piece set for $75 and they are outstanding. (If that's too much for you FWW says these are really good for like $40.) So like I said, can't comment on these but in general, with tools, you pay for what you get. I'd rather spend $75 on something that will last my lifetime than $1 on something that will cost me time to replace, will fail when I need it, doesn't do the job quite as well.

u/AbysmalVixen · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Looks good but since you’ll be doing lots of processing I’d go with a ryzen 2700 build as it’s got better multi core performance and it comes with its own really good cooler. Also I’d just go down to Lowe’s or home depot and get you a good screwdriver and some philips Head bits for under 20 bucks instead of spending so much on an ifixit kit.

If you insist on getting a screwdriver kit, I’d go with ORIA Precision Screwdriver Set, 60 in 1 Magnetic Driver Kit as it’s got better grip, more bits, it extends and retracts, and costs a fraction of the prices.

You also probably don’t need That much wattage on your psu

u/ThriceAsNight · 1 pointr/parametrek

What a great thing to do! Thanks for all the effort you put in to helping people find great tools.

I would love this:

https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Sidekick-Multi-Tool-Stainless-Sheath/dp/B005DI2QTC/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1493777113&sr=1-4&keywords=Leatherman

Good luck to everyone!

u/Old_Deadhead · 3 pointsr/PipeTobacco

Without seeing more detailed pictures it's hard to know if any of them are valuable, but they are probably all worth tinkering with.

There are specific ways to go about restoring them, so I would do a bit of research before diving in, especially to see if any of them are collectable. If they have stamped maker's marks on the stummel, you can start there.

So, I guess the best place to start is https://pipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page

You need to clean the bowls, both inside and out, without stripping the finish. The stems can be soaked in OxyClean to get the worst of the corrosion off, then sanded back to a nice glossy finish with Micro Mesh sanding pads.

There's definitely some nice looking shapes in there, it's just hard to know anything more about them without more detail.

u/Stormrider001 · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

Got a blade material are you looking for? (stainless steel or carbon)

Blade profile? (drop point, tanto, spear, clip)

Blade grind? (Flat, Saber, Scandinavian, or Hollow)

Off the top of my head:

Becker BK16 - flat 1095Cro-Van

Esee Camp Lore PR-4 - Saber 1095

Esee 4P - flat 1095

Esee Izula - flat 1095

Morakniv Bush Crafter - Scandinavian 1095

Morakniv Garberg - Scandinavian 14C28N

Cold Steel Master Hunter - Flat VG1 in San Mai

​

FYI The ESEE brand has perhaps the best lifetime warranty of fixed blades. Return and they will replace with no questions asked policy. It is also transferable so they do tend to keep their value over time. Tactical Intent is a verified seller on amazon. At that price range you can get a pretty great knife.

Hope this helps!

u/bexamous · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I'll have to go with Gerber folding utility knife, this small as possible kind:

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-31-000345-E-A-B-Pocket-Knife/dp/B002RILCLY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_23

The one I have is slightly different with G10 handle, but they don't make it anymore... but I don't think it matters. Couple nice things about this: It is just so small/light and the clip works very well. I can kinda put it near the top of my pocket and I never know its there. And more importantly it takes normal razor blades, so I can buy a 50 pack and every other week or so put in a new blade. This is a huge both because I always have a super sharp blade that makes cutting thing so enjoyable, and because unlike having a fancy knife, I don't worry about treating the blade like crap. I don't care if it dulls. I've got some nice knives and used to carry one all the time but I was so careful with them.

u/lex0429 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

These are some good chisels not only to start with but to use until you really want to make the move up. You'll probably have to do some work to get them flat but it won't be that bad. Flatten the back and hone to a 30-degree micro bevel and you're ready to rock and roll.

For the money, you can't beat the Veritas dovetail saw. I'd suggest the 14tpi. I have that and the LN and they're both really good but the Veritas is a lot cheaper.

Good luck!

u/AffableJoker · 7 pointsr/GoRVing

I highly suggest a hand packer. You'll need a jack capable of lifting your trailer (I highly suggest a bottle jack), and stands to support it while your wheels are off. You'll need a 1-1/2 socket (I won't use a wrench on the castle nut), cotter pins if that's what your axle uses. You won't know until you take it apart so just buy a kit since they're cheap and you can use them if/when you need to work on your awning anyway. I use water pump pliers to remove the dust cap without damaging it. You'll need a seal puller. Breaker bar, torque wrench, and sockets to fit your lug nuts. Brake clean, I use varsol to clean everything but the drum. Varsol and cast iron don't mix. I'll clean everything after the varsol with brake clean because it evaporates. You'll need high temperature high pressure grease and new seals (if you bring your make and rating of axle to a dealer they can hook you up).

Jack up the trailer, take off the wheels, pop off the dust cap, take off the cotter pin or other retainer, remove the nut, washer, outer bearing, remove the drum, remove the seal, remove the inner bearing. Clean the bearings with varsol, clean everything with brake clean, blow everything with compressed air to evaporate the brake clean, pack new grease into the bearings, coat the axle spindle with grease, coat the bearing races with grease, reassemble.

The correct torque on the axle nut is 50ft/lbs while spinning the wheel to set the bearings, then loosen and retighten to finger tight.

u/CaptainTheGabe · 1 pointr/Survival

I love my small forest axe. Best survival purchase i've made. I wouldn't stray from that idea, unless you decide to refurbish an antique hatchet. I've seen people fix up sixty year old plumb scout hatchets to gransfors quality.

For knives, i use my moraknive survival and the condor bushlore. The bushlore a hardy-ass knife and it's only about thirty bucks. I use the mora regularly. That particular one is what i have, i picked it up based on the thickness of the blade, but they have far cheaper ones if you don't want to throw down that much. I believe you can get an almost identicle knife without the firesteel for around 15 bucks cheaper.
Good Review on the bushlore

Machete-wise, i love my Condor Parang. It's giant, it sharpens well, it holds an edge, and it's tough as nails. The thing is 1/4 inch thick. It's big. It also comes with a sexy leather sheath of equally high quality and durability.
I've also played around with the full size bear grylls Parang by gerber. Thing cuts like you wouldn't believe, with great weight length and balance. I use the condor, my survival bud uses the gerber. They're about equal in different ways.

u/youreoutofthemovie · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hey /r/audiophile! Three questions for you today.

I have seen the Behringer UCA202 recommended on here a few times for a DAC, but I am considering the UFO202 instead because I want to also be able to record vinyl to my computer. Is this the right choice? Will I still be able to use the UFO202 as a DAC for playback?

Also, if I plug a 3.5mm to RCA cable from the headphone jack of my computer to the AUX input of a receiver (Yamaha CR-450), will I get any additional benefit from adding a DAC, or does the receiver serve as a DAC?

3rd question: If I were to use that same 3.5mm to RCA cable to go from the headphone jack of the UCA/UFO202 to the receiver, would that be just as good as getting an RCA-RCA cable, or would that throw away some or all of the benefit of the DAC in the first place?

Thanks!

u/GoldenBacon · 2 pointsr/knives

I think the kershaw blur is one of their greatest knives, I love it, it's sturdy and thick. I think it fits and feels great in the hand as well. The only downside is that it is very rust prone. If you want to get a Blur with better steel, you could get the S30V on Amazon.

u/ubuwalker31 · 2 pointsr/CampingandHiking

As I am sure you have discovered, there are lots of opinions out there for what constitutes "the best general purpose camping knife".

Quite honestly, almost any type of blade can be used for most camping chores, including a simple razor blade...

But you aren't just looking for a razor blade...you are looking for a knife that looks "outdoorsy" or "tactical" that can stand up to harsh treatment that you could maul a bear with if necessary.

So, my advice is to go to an outdoor store that specializes in camping, hunting or fishing (not a walmart). Pick up some of the knives behind the glass. See if they feel good in your hand. Does it seem sturdy to you? Ask yourself if you are willing to carry it all day in your pocket while camping or hiking. Is it sharp? Is it in your price range?

Then, don't buy it. Do some more research on a website like bladeforums.com. Read what the knife nuts are carrying into the woods with them. Learn that people are obsessed with the actual shape of a blade and the steel that it is made from (stainless vs carbon, powdered super steels vs 440C, plain blade or serrated). Watch videos on durability and cutting.

Then have an epiphany that you don't really just want a camping knife...you want an every day carry knife that you can use while camping or at work or where ever.

Then, buy the knife of your dreams on Amazon or a reputable website.

Edit: I EDC a Kershaw Blur Knife with a plain non-serrated S30V Steel blade.

u/mrcc912 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I bought this set of Narex chisels off amazon when I first started getting into wood working and they have been great for a couple of years now. They sharpen up really well and they are perfectly strong. I would definitely recommend to beginners even if they are in the pricier end of beginners sets.

*Editted for formatting the link

u/McNizzel · 2 pointsr/knifemaking

thanks in advance.

here is a link to the bush crafter https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Bushcraft-Carbon-Survival-Starter/dp/B00BFI8TOA

It seems like it should suite my needs well in terms of shape and size. I have one in stainless now that I like. I was looking at blanks and found that you can get a morakniv blank that I could work with, but I'm liking the interest that damascus provides. I'm not really sure what the pros and cons of the material might be for camping and bushcrafting, but I do think it would look cool. I'm thinking I'd do a wooden handle possibly with some brass guards if I'm feeling ambitious.

u/e39 · 6 pointsr/Gameboy


I purchased my screen from AAA Retro Gaming on eBay.

These kits and screens are all coming from the same place in China. One store won't have a magical better stock than another. The one linked above will come with the 40-pin Type B cable (if needed), along with a glass screen lens.

----------------------------------------

Not necessary, but it'll make your life easier ... a rotary tool.

I chose this one because of the bundled accessories and case, along with it's high rating. I've used one and couldn't tell the difference between this and a Dremel.

----------------------------------------

If you go the rotary tool route, get some eye protection. Bits may go flying directly into your face.

----------------------------------------

Can't forget the soldering iron.

I chose this configuration because it comes with stand, solder and other accessories for only $16.

----------------------------------------

Flush cutters will help you get to spots too tight for the rotary tool. This isn't necessary, but it's very useful when needed.

----------------------------------------

For various other mod bits, I've ordered from quite a few stores.

  • Hand Held Legend - If you're in the US, these guys are my favorite. They'll get your package out within 24 hours.

  • Retro Modding - They're based in Canada and shipments are ... a bit timely. Personally, it took 18 days for my package to arrive (to Chicago).

  • eBay - Just make sure where the seller is from. (If the item is too cheap, it's coming over very slowly from China.)
u/Teamster · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I use one of these. Super lightweight, small, and uses replaceable blades. It's hardly the best looking knife out there, and I'm considering getting an Opinel, but the EAB is a simple, decent looking, highly effective utility knife. Certain perks to using a utility knife over a "normal" knife: easy to clean, cheap to replace blades, small profile.

u/cwcoleman · 6 pointsr/CampingGear

That's a fine recommendation. I don't agree - but it's valuable for OP to see different approaches from different redditors.

My whole point is to not spend the extra money on accessories like this.

I'm a big fan of 'buy once, cry once' - but for some people it's valuable to go low budget at first. Especially with accessories like this. As I gained experience - I learned that cheaper/smaller knifes were better for me. So, for example, the 'better' knives I invested in previously now sit in a drawer unused.

Choosing which gear to buy high quality first is complicated. Different ways to approach for sure. I'm recommending to focus on the 'big 4' first, not the accessories.

​

For example - I carry these as my knife and flashlight often:

u/THWBM · 1 pointr/parametrek

First of all: I need 61 comment karma. Would be nice if you could help me!
A Sidekick would be great.
https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Sidekick/dp/B005DI2QTC/?tag=parametrek-20
By the way: I realy like the parametrek search. The kind of searching is much better than the one from eBay or Amazon.
Edit: Only 56 comment karma missing. You are awesome!

u/IWannaMakeStuff · 1 pointr/arduino

Oboy, I'm probably the wrong person to ask. However, /u/BriThePiGuy recommends Joe Knows Electronics boxes, and /u/NeoMarxismIsEvil recommends the following:

> I would order some cheap assortment kits from people on aliexpress. These are the sort that come with like 10 of most common values of resistor, capacitor, etc.

> Other stuff:

> - WeMos d1 mini or mini pro
> - small i2c OLED displays
> - small LCD display
> - tacswitches (buttons)
> - SPDT switches
> - 74HC595 and 74HC165 shift registers
> - either bidirectional logic level shifter modules or mosfets and resistors needed to make them
> - 7 segment led displays (individual)
> - 8x8 led matrices
> - various environmental and physics sensors (often come as a kit of 20+ different modules)
> - extra breadboards
> - jumper wires
> - male and female header strips (for modules that lack pins)
> - cheap breadboard power supplies
> - voltage regulators (both LDO ICs and buck converter)
> - possibly some 4xAA or 4xAAA battery holders
> - trim pot assortment

> Those are just ideas. Some things like 7 seg led digits are pretty cheap and worth having a few of but not terribly important if you have a real display of some sort.

I personally like the assortment of bits I got in my Sparkfun Inventor's Kit, but found that I wanted more of the following:

u/GothamCountySheriff · 2 pointsr/vinyl

For those interested in doing this, but don't have the equipment, here are several audio interfaces for capturing vinyl to digital:

  • Behringer UCA202
  • Behringer UFO202
  • ART USB Phono Plus

    The Behringer UCA202 would be good for setups with an external preamp, output through the monitor function (tape out) of a receiver with built-in phono preamp, or a turntable with a built-in preamp.

    The UFO202 has a built-in phono preamp and would be good for connecting the turntable directly to the computer -- no external preamp or receiver needed. The ART USB Phono Plus would be the same, except you will get a definite upgrade in clarity and presentation with it's phono preamp.

    All of these interfaces max out at 16 bit / 48 kHz, so they are not high-res (24 bit / 88.2 kHz or higher), but they are going to capture at CD or better quality, which should be fine in most instances.
u/bicknass · 1 pointr/EDC

One that I recently bought was the Leatherman CS, it has the same tools as the little SD victorinox but I like the design and feel a little more. Leatherman has the Skeletool as well if you're interested in something bigger.

On a classier side I really liked my Buck Chairman. It's only knives, no tools but it's a quality product.

Personally I always carry my Victorinox one handed Trekker in my pocket and my SOG Trident in my backpack just for good measure.

Victorinox Swiss Army One-Hand Trekker Lockblade Pocket Knife (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000687B44/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tv7Iub1MPW1PS

Leatherman 831207 Style CS Clip-On Multi-Tool with Scissors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032XVNMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_LJ7Iub1STMMN2

Buck Chairman Series Cadet Comfort Craft TM Knife (Rosewood, 3 1/4-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NLIA4C/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_YL7Iub0XCV0VB

SOG Specialty Knives & Tools TF1-CP Trident Knife with Partially Serrated Assisted Folding 3.75-Inch Steel Blade and GRN Handle, Black TiNi Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PIE2I8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2Q7Iub16JNT0K

u/amaraNT2oo2 · 7 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

Nice - you'll be glad to have that variety of tips, depending on what you are working on! If you have any spare Christmas money, I'd recommend picking up one of these self-adjusting wire strippers - it sort of matches your color scheme too! And if you do a lot of de-soldering (anything with lots of headers or through-hole IC sockets), a desoldering iron can save a ton of time compared to your solder wick and desoldering pump.

A few other things that I've found useful (mostly repairing electronic keyboards / synthesizers, although I'm hoping to get more into Arduino / Pi soon):

Hakko wire cutter

Helping hand

Hemostat / Forceps

Digital multimeter with audible continuity tester

u/optional_downvote · 2 pointsr/knives

If you like kershaw you can get a blur with S30v steel for around 65$ on amazon if you still want a kershaw. I've never been too impresed with them since I find their build quality to be lacking. They seem to have an excessive amount of blade play and use average quality steels in most of their knives. The a premium steel that can hold a razor sharp working edge. The spyderco delica/endura line is also a great knife. They have full flat ground blades that come razor sharp from the factory with absolutlely no blade play. I personally carry a green delica as one of my edc knives. The dragonfly is also great if you want a knife that dissapears on your person. it is a featherweight knife, that cuts and handles like a much larger knife.

If you are looking for a knife that can take an absolutely harsh beating, I would have to reccomend an Ontario RAT 1 or 2 depending on you size preference. They are a bit heavy in hand compared to other knives it size, but perform just as good as any of my spydercos. It is also on the cheaper side at around 25$.

The benchmades are also a good choice, but I would also reccomend the benchmade mini-presidio.

Anyways, I thought I might as well just post some links to them:

S30v Kershaw Blur

Benchmade Mini Presidio

[Benchmade Griptillian] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9BOF0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2Q6YQ3PL1NNYW&coliid=I1IO3PSF8569TW)

Benchmade Mini Griptillian (I prefer thumb hole openers, but both griptillians also are offered with combo edges and thumb studs.)

Spyderco Dragonfly

Spyderco Delica

Spyderco Endura

Ontario RAT 1

Ontario RAT 2

u/smushkan · 1 pointr/videography

The Q2N can function as a 720p USB webcam, though it's quite wide-angle (like a go-pro) so it would need to be closer than you'd think to get a good shot.

Your budget really is too low for anything other than webcams really, though you can get some pretty decent webcams for that price.

Hve a look at the Logitech C920. You'd have enough left over for a USB audio interface so you could run an output from the desk into your streaming package.

The thing is though, webcams don't have zoom. The zoom/pan that is done by software is simply blowing up the image so you're not gaining any detail, so things will just look blurrier when you zoom in.

Ideally, you'll need to reduce the distance between the camera and the stage somehow. You could, for example, suspend the camera from the ceiling, or mount it on a desk at the front of the bar?

However, if you're streaming at 720p or lower resolution, then you could potentially zoom in on the video in your streaming package without losing quality (don't use the webcam software, use something like OBS).

The Zoom Q2N would work as it can function as a USB webcam, but it's got a go-pro like wide-angle lens on it so it would need to be even closer than a normal webcam.

Really to pull this project off well, you'd need to spend at least a few more hundred dollars. A consumer camcorder like a Canon Vixia, plus a HDMI capture device like a Blackmagic Web Presenter would be the ideal budget setup.

u/ARKnife · 1 pointr/knives

In a word - yes, the higher end folders are made better and use higher end materials, so you will feel the difference (especially jumping from $20 to $100).

If you'd like good quality spring assisted knives the US made Kershaws are the way to go: the Blur, Knockout, Leek, Link, Dividend - just choose the one you like most, they are all great.

u/timsandtoms · 1 pointr/turning

The PSI micromesh sanding pads work fine, and you can definitely get great results with them, but I've had much better luck with this style. Definitely worth trying when it comes time to replace your current pads.

u/Guepardita · 2 pointsr/Gifts

These beard socks are funny :)

A cool chamber light.

This awesome survival knife.

This really gorgeous beer glass.

A classic Jacob Bromwell copper flask.

u/Varlinwor · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I live in Vancouver. My glass is literally out of a photo frame that I got at Dollarama for $2.5. Nothing fancy.

I cut it to size using my dremel https://www.amazon.ca/2305-Rotary-Tool-Flex-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501045676&sr=1-1&keywords=dremel with these wheels https://www.amazon.ca/SE-DW13-5-Piece-Diamond-Wheels/dp/B000P49NCC

I attached the glass with 4 binder clips, each measuring 15mm in width. Also from Dollarama; a pack for a Loonie.

Few tips. If you do this, get 2 or 3 frames because you will probably end up cracking your first one as I did. Also be safe. You need to protect your eyes, your hands, and your breath. Again, don't really have to be fancy. For my eye protection I was wearing just my glasses. I also had some good fitting working gloves (any comfortable slightly thick gloves would do) and I wore a surgical mask for protection from glass dust (a slightly damp cloth covering your mouth and nose would work fine too)

Alternatively, you could do this the normal and easy way and use an actual glass cutting tool https://www.amazon.ca/L-TMS-Professional-Handle-Cutter-Cutting/dp/B06X9GRGGD I didn't have one at hand to I just used my dremel.

u/pussifer · 2 pointsr/knives

Kershaw Blur?

The only thing is that the pocket clip locations (there are 2) are only on one side of the knife. Should still be very workable for left-side carry and use, as it has ramped thumbstuds on either side. The Kershaw Speedsafe assisted-opening is really pretty great, and easy to remove if you so desire (as I have done). I have no problem opening or using the knife with either hand. And they're pretty reasonably priced. I have the one I linked, and it's been a great EDC knife. Blade length is ~3.5" of usable edge.

u/schneems · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I think the one Sellers mentions cost like $15 US for a 4 pack which is a a bit crazy. I saw the pack you linked and started drooling. I love the look, and that it comes with leather carrying case. I don't have a problem paying $70 for quality, however I would be more comfortable if I understood why they cost $40 more than something like this pack http://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1426702020&sr=1-1&keywords=aldi+chisels

Basically am I getting a nicer tool, or just a nicer look and brand name?

u/B_crunk · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Do you wrap them around something? And torching the kanthal will help if you find it to be particularly springy. Here is a coil wrapping calculator that will tell you how many wraps you need to reach your desired resistance based on your kanthal gauge and the size of whatever you are wrapping around.

I would suggest investing in a set of screwdrivers like these to wrap on. They are super cheap and wrapping with them is super easy.

u/pogidaga · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I can't tell for sure from the photos, but that cable is probably at least CAT5e or better, which is just fine for 1GB ethernet in the house.

You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.

u/heyyoguy · 53 pointsr/PS4

I had success using the guide referenced here by u/BooB398, but honestly the majority of the dust buildup was along the side vents which I cleaned with Q-tips and did not require any disassembly. Also make sure you get the TR9 Torx Security bit if you are going to get in there (I ordered a kit on Amazon for like 14 bucks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E16J6RQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

u/notheretomakefrainds · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I can't help you on the chain rivet tool

In terms of a ratchet kit - since the rear axle nut needs to be torqued down pretty heavy, you'll want a decent torque wrench that can comfortably hit the spec on the rear axle nut. Do you know lb ft your rear axle nut needs to be torqued to? I'd suggest getting a torque wrench that does 15-150 ft lbs something like this , as most axle nuts need somewhere in the 75-110 ft lbs. Then, at the least you need a socket that 1) matches the drive size on your torque wrench (likely .5 inch) and 2) the axle nut size (can vary a lot. mines 27mm, some are 24mm, recommend checking service manual and/or google). You'd be even better off for doing other work to just get an impact socket set, should be able to find something decent for ~$20 on harbor freight, and then a cheap ratchet (for when you just need to loosen things up or other various tinkering activities)

I like the Tekton torque wrenches, have 2 sizes and never had an issue. In terms of sockets, anything not made out of chinesium is fine (Harbor freight set has been good for me)

u/coletain · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Hard to beat Narex for the price.

Good set with the basics

A little nicer set

Planes are harder on a budget, the cheapest that is pretty likely to be good out of the box is the bench dog, but I'd try to find a stanley #5 to restore first.

For fine woodworking hand saws, pretty hard to beat a japanese ryoba and dozuki on a budget.

See this comment for a budget sharpening setup for the chisels and plane irons.

u/bizzy11 · 1 pointr/sffpc

As far as tools and such, you'll need a splitter cable for the fans (which should be included with the Noctua fans) as well as this: https://www.amazon.com/GELID-SOLUTIONS-PWM-Adapter-Cooler/dp/B005ZKZEQA

That adapter is to connect the bottom mounted fans to the gpu, so you can control the fan speeds using MSI afterburner (overclocking/fan profile program). Besides that, just a screwdriver, microfiber cloth, 99% isopropyl, and these pads if you decide to go the Accelero route: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTLI4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You should also invest in a screwdriver set with small bits, as some of the screws will strip if you try to use too big of a bit. Something like this should be ok: https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=electronics+screwdriver+set&qid=1555887517&s=electronics&sr=1-3

The isopropyl and microfiber cloths are to wipe the cpu/gpu before applying thermal paste to ensure a completely clean surface, as well as clean up already applied thermal paste. DO NOT use paper towels as they will leave residue on the cpu/gpu.

All the things you mentioned about watercooling are why I didn't go that route. Not only maintenance concerns, but if something is installed improperly, you run the risk of destroying your components. It just takes one mistake or loose fitting to potentially destroy everything. Not to scare you from trying it or anything, but that was always a risk I wasn't willing to take.

I have my rear fan mounted to the case as intake, with the U9S blowing air toward the front of the case. I know it sounds stupid to vent hot air into the case, but this is how I get the best temps out of my setup. You might be better off aiming it upward, but I didn't want the bottom fans to be completely starved of air, so I put another 120mm intake fan on the front part of the side bracket to help cool the air coming from the cpu.

I also had the same concerns as you about the feet, and after several days of using the stock feet, I noticed how hot the table was getting underneath the case. I bought some custom feet from here: https://mnpctech.com/ncase-m1-mods/ncase-m1-black-silver-replace-feet/

They are a bit pricey, but I've heard of people buying feet meant for speaker amps that will work as well. They just need to use M3 screws to fit into the stock feet holes on the M1.

Edit: for the second fan, you would mount one on the back of the M1, directly to the case. The second fan would be mounted directly on the cpu heatsink, above the ram. If you're dead set on having that ram, you can always mount the fan a little higher so it clears the ram. Shouldn't be a big deal. If you plan on pointing the U9S toward the top of the case, then it doesn't matter what ram you have.

Edit2: wow thanks for the gold!

u/Thereptilia · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

If you don't mind waiting fast tech is great heres a great rda and good mod for $15

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10012340/2088800-tugboat-styled-18650-mechanical-mod-w-rda-atomizer

Also grab an ohm reader there as well for $5

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010372/1897900-atomizer-resistance-tester-ohm-meter

Here's some kanthal I suggest 26 gauge 25 feet Is about $4

http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/kanthal-a1-resistance-wire

Also pick up a battery for about $8 or two for $14 (worth having a backup battery) use the coupon "lv15" for 15% off

http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/samsung-inr-18650-25r-battery

I'd suggest this charger for $12

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0096U26QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421740585&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41E7nbJ5btL&ref=plSrch

And these screwdrivers if your local dollar store doesn't have it for $4

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B00009OYGV/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Roughly under $50 for a good setup in my opinion

u/TheReal-JoJo103 · 3 pointsr/BBQ

What tools do you have?

For longevity target rust. Sand, grind, scrape it down and paint it with hightemp paint. You can replace the grates if you want just search cooking/grill grates on Amazon and you'll probably find something that fits. Personally I'd replace the handles. I hate a grill that feels like it wants to crush my hand when I'm taking a peek or sticking in a temperature probe.

IF I were cleaning it up I'd take this to it, inside and out, and repaint the whole thing. If you don't have an angle grinder a Drill version works (preferably with a cord, batteries don't last that long). I'd remove/replace all wood (handles particularly), hardware, screws, bolts, anything that comes off. Maybe something with the hinges, probably some PB Blaster to break up that rust then some WD40 to coat/lubricate whats left.

To use it, clean off the grates and smoke something, it's usable as is. Get it nice and hot then bring the temperature down and let it go. You may find that it is to big/small for you. People underestimate the charcoal and wood required to keep a smoker this big going. I personally couldn't use one this big, smoking 3 times what you eat sounds good til you throw away good brisket or ribs a week later. If you want to smoke as much as possible get the smoker that makes it easy, not the one that feeds your extended family once a year. For free, just use it and see before you invest time/money.

u/GillicuttyMcAnus · 1 pointr/Tools

I bought a cheapo Wen off of Amazon. For the price of a Dremel^^TM accessory kit, I get a whole tool, accessories, and flex shaft (the accessories were so-so, but with the money I saved I was able to buy other fittings for it)... For what I need a rotary tool for, this one fits perfect. I've used many Dremel^^TM brand tools before, and this one is just as good.

Here's the thing with rotary tools tho, they're light duty. They're great for small/odd jobs, but if you're doing anything more than a few minutes work, an air die grinder and/or cut off wheel will be about 1000x better.

What do you need a rotary tool for?

u/AlfonsoTheX · 3 pointsr/woodworking

While I don't own these, Narex chisels get a lot of good press in this sub.

I was able to find a large set of Sorby chisels (18 of them I think it was, including a 2") on Craigslist for $100, so looking carefully online might be another option to find some good chisels for a bargain, but as always, buyer beware. :)

As /u/jakkarth points out, you'll need to tune and sharpen any chisel you get your hands on, and Paul Sellers videos are very informative and approachable.

Good luck!

u/Boodieboo · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have this, the ifixit and another one from ORIA that was on sale a few days ago (https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1541607353&sr=8-7&keywords=computer+tool+kit).

​

If you want to buy this one and have it as a backup or keep it at a secondary area like your car, home or work, its a great deal. But if you want one that you want to use as your main toolkit, go with the Ifixit. I had this one and the ORIA one I sent the link of first, and they were great. But once I tried the ifixit, I was more than pleased.

u/must_ache · 2 pointsr/EDC

Leatheman Style CS has excellent scissors and a very good blade for it's size(1.6in blade). It is basically a step up for the SAK classic. Better scissors, blade, and tweezers. Loose the toothpick and gain a bottle opener. Can be found for around $20. It won't replace an actual knife in most peoples EDC, but for many it could.

If it isn't enought knife then look into a value dedicated knife like an opinel no.6 as well if you want more knife.

u/MrPoopyButthole1989 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I like it raw like u/overlyapologeticguy.

I don't really have any funny stories about that type "cough" protection.

Other protection related story. Was trying to tan before going on a date one time. Didn't think I would need any tanning lotion or anything like that. Well the employee recommended I try the lowest strength bed for 10 minutes... so I did. Holy shit. I was fine for about an hour and then it started. I was so freaking red all over my entire body. I'm a ginger so I burn really easily. Even the inside of my ears was bright red. It was so bad that my freckles all turned this weird shade of green. I spent the next several hours in a bathtub full of cool water and baking soda. It took about a week before my entire body peeled off in giant disgusting chunks of skin. So painful.

Long story short, I've accepted that I come in two shades. Snow white and tomato red.

I've been wanting this rotary tool kit so I can hopefully fix some small rust spots on my car before they spread any more.

Thanks for the contest.

u/definitelynotaspy · 2 pointsr/EDC

This is a fun idea.

Assuming you carry a separate knife:

Gerber Shard - $6.82

Fenix E01 - $12.73

Total: $19.55

The Shard does so much for so little, and the Fenix is a very reliable, functional flashlight (with the added bonus of using easy-to-replace AAA batteries).

Assuming you don't carry a separate knife:

Leatherman Style CS - $16.79

Generic button cell light - $3-$4 at Walmart or wherever

Total: $20.79 (assuming the $4 price on the button light, it's a little over, but you can probably find one for $3 if you look)

OR

Victorinox Rally - $11.60

LRI Photon II - $8.27

Total: $19.87

This kinda depends on your needs. The Style functions better as a knife than the Rally (in my opinion), and offers essentially the same tools plus a great pair of scissors. But in return, you sacrifice a little in terms of your light. Personally I'd opt for the Style + generic.

u/fearandloling · 1 pointr/EDC

all the moras are nice. get a carbon steel mora classic if you just want a base model, or if you don't like the wood handle/traditional look you can grab the mora frost which is cheaper and has a nice and grippy rubber handle. if you wanna spend a bit more cash, they have a line of thicker blades, designed for specific bushcraft use (whatever that means) such as the mora bushcraft black. basically they don't make a bad knife. even if you get the cheapest mora utility you will not be disappointed.

your sog is legit though, i really like it. i've been meaning to add a combo straight/serrated fixed blade to my collection and the seal pup elite really caught my eye. good looking blade for sure.

u/xc0z · 6 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

Alright... ignoring the fact that your asking how to install gears implies heavily that you don't know the first step... OR the first thing. Here's the basic run down. I'm not going to go into detail on torque specs, or specific procedure... i'd be here all night on a how-to that most people don't give two shits about. I'm also doing this ONLY for the 8.25. DANA 44's are too rare in stock, and DANA 35's don't deserve to be rebuilt.

Tools needed:

  1. Bearing race set tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html
  2. Clamshell Bearing puller: http://www.amazon.com/G2-Axle-Gear-80-BRGPLLR-Clamshell/dp/B004PHV7DI
  3. Micrometer: http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Caliper-Electronic-Micrometer/dp/B006Y1OWKS
  4. Backlash Indicator: http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL96414-0-001-Increment-Indicator/dp/B006K8WANQ
  5. Torque Wrench: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-Torque-10-150-Foot/dp/B00C5ZL0RU
  6. 12 ton shop press: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
  7. Cold Chisel: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6738-Chisel-Punch-12-Piece/dp/B000NPR3IO
  8. Magnet on a stick
  9. Needle nose pliers, or whatever pliers will fit
  10. 3-5lb Maul

    Parts needed:
  11. The gears. duh
  12. Master rebuild kit with TIMKEN bearings.
  13. Gear oil.
  14. Marking compound, if the rebuild kit doesn't come with it... If it doesn't, you bought a cheap kit. shame. SHAME.^SHAME.^SHAME.

    On a 8.25...
  15. Pull diff cover.
  16. Pull pinion yoke nut.
  17. Remove center pin bolt, and pull center pin from carrier.
  18. Push Axle shafts in to the center housing.
  19. Look for the little C clip inside the carrier. Use you stick magnet to pull them out. Repeat for the other axle.
  20. Pull axle shafts out of both sides.
  21. Use your cold chisel to put a mark on the left bearing cap ridge. make one mark. make one mark on the left side housing as well. Make two marks on the right side bearing cap. Make two marks on the right side housing as well. PAY ATTENTION WHEN REASSEMBLING. Bearing caps are side specific, and switching them can result in early bearing failure. Set bearing caps and bearing cap bolts in a clean area.
  22. Pull out main carrier.
  23. Put carrier in a vise, and with your torque wrench, remove the bolts holding the ring gear in place. tap the ring gear evenly around the sides to remove.
  24. Use the Clamshell bearing puller to pull the bearings off the carrier.
  25. Use the shop press to install the new bearings on the carrier.
  26. Put the new ring gear on the carrier. Push it on lightly with your hands, install 2-4 bolts to hold it in place. Count the turns as the bolts catch. install the rest of the bolts with the same amount of turns. Tighten all bolts in a star pattern in even increments to 40 ft/lbs. then to 60 ft/lbs. then finally 80 ft/lbs.
  27. Pull the pinion yoke if you haven't already. pull the pinion. if it doesn't come out, hit it with a hammer. use some wood if you plan on saving the gear set for whatever reason.
  28. Use cold punch to remove bearing races from the rear of the housing. don't fuck up the housing mating surface, or it'll leak no matter how many times you replace the pinion seal.
  29. Install the new bearing races with the bearing race set tool and your maul.
  30. Install the bearing on the pinion.
  31. Measure the old shims with your micrometer. Install the same thickness shims in the pinion to start.
  32. Place the pinion in the housing. New bearing should be in place on the pinion and in the housing at this point. IF not, you need to learn to read.
  33. Measure the thickness of the carrier bearings. Place new bearings of the same thickness to start.
  34. Place carrier, bearing outer races and shims in all at once.
  35. Put old crush sleeve and old bearing on the new pinion. A die grinder to grind out some of the inner old bearing race makes a good setup bearing. tighten the pinion nut.
  36. Place marking compound on 5 ring gear teeth, both sides.
  37. Spin the carrier to determine pattern. consult pattern guide included with your kit. you kit didn't come with a guide? shoulda bought Yukon gears.
  38. If you pattern isn't conforming to the guide, add or remove shims from the pinion or carrier.
  39. Once you think you have a good pattern, setup the dial indicator and measure backlash. Ideal is .8-.12 thousandths. if you're in the .12 or above, or .8 or below, add or remove shims to move the pinion in or out, or the carrier left or right. this can require some time dedication.
  40. Once your happy with your gears, pull the carrier back out. Install new inner seals if you have them.
  41. Remove the old crush sleeve and place a new one. Torque to the recommended spec.
  42. Measure drag on the pinion with the torque wrench. should be ~8-10ft/lbs if i recall.
  43. Place carrier back in the housing.
  44. Replace carrier bearing caps and torque.
  45. Re-torque pinion nut.
  46. Replace axle shafts.
  47. Replace c-clips.
  48. Replace center pin and bolt.
  49. Replace cover. seal well. sitting overnight is ideal.
  50. Fill with 80w-90 gear oil.

    Go for a drive. If everything was done right, you should now have more power, and no rear end noise. if you do... you need to take the rear apart again, and reset the gears to clear the noise.

    I'm sure i forgot something, like thrust washers. Don't crucify me for it. If you want a REAL guide, you need to do more research.
u/InsuredByBeretta · 1 pointr/woodworking

I just bought a set of Narex chisels and as far as I understand, I'll need to sharpen them before use (I'm completely new to woodworking, sorry!).


I realize I could probably piece together a much cheaper version from a hardware store, but if this set is great to use out of the box, I'd rather spend the extra few bucks for a perfect surface and a guide as well.

u/shr3dthegnarbrah · 5 pointsr/EDC

A small multi-tool like the Leatherman CS replacing a utility knife.

I also think we (this sub) overlook the utility of smartphone apps. This demographic (reddit) is reasonably likely to have a smartphone and I know that I use useful things every day like:

Pocket

CRADaR

RadarNow!

to simplify my life and protect myself. I sure could use some recommendations from folks like you about apps I haven't heard of.

u/OddMakerMeade · 2 pointsr/whittling

To start you need 4 things imo. Knife, sharpening stone, wood, and a glove.
I like Morakniv Wood Carving 120 Knife with Laminated Steel Blade, 2.4-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GATX62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JF87CbW24FV4W
It’s cheap and after many years of carving I still use it.

I use a home made honing strop 80% of the time and a diamond stone the remaining 20% when needed.

I use a lansky extra fine but there are probably better options.

Basswood is the standard carving wood. It’s available from hobby shops and on amazon.

Wear a (clean) leather or knife guard glove on your non dominant hand. It’ll save you a lot of cuts.

u/scottklarr · 2 pointsr/homelab
  • Wire snips - These Claus scissors are my favorite
  • 110 Punchdown tool - If you want to spend a little more, you can get one with a blade that will stay sharper longer. I've used both TrendNet and Fluke. The fluke blade lasts longer.
  • Stripping tool - Makes stripping cables much faster and accurate (once you adjust the blade to the cable you're using). You can just as well strip by hand, but always be sure to examine the wires to ensure you didn't nick them.
  • RJ45 Crimper - You won't need these unless you plan on terminating any cables with RJ45 plugs. If you're strictly terminating into a patch panel you can skip these.

    Other useful things:

  • Cable tester
  • Velcro
  • Label maker
u/iTechThingsSeriously · 2 pointsr/networking

I've been eyeing those AirConsoles for a while. A good flashlight is great. That screwdriver someone mentioned was cool.

I have this one and like it a lot.

Folks have mentioned the smaller Leatherman tools here. I liked this one so much, I bought one for both of my key rings.

u/lastwraith · 2 pointsr/techsupport

\^ This.

I hate when people say things like what I am about to say but in this case it is true.
If you don't even have the tools to open the drive, this is not the project for you. Opening a hard drive yourself to recover data is a really terrible idea when you are talking about exposing the platters. There is a reason data recovery is so expensive and it isn't just because they have high profit margins.

In the event that there isn't any data on there that you care about and you want to give it a go as an academic exercise....that is a horse of a different color.
A T9 is actually pretty big. In my bag with me I have a kit that includes a T3 through T8 and it wouldn't surprise me at all if your drive required something in that range.
If you live near a Micro Center you can pick up something like this kit. It is quite usable.
http://www.microcenter.com/product/441261/54_bit_driver_kit
I actually have the Inland "ufixit" generic version from Micro for under $20 and it's really handy.
http://www.microcenter.com/product/486365/uFixit_Bit_Driver_Kit_-_54_Pieces

If you don't have a Micro Center nearby, try something like this on Amazon?
https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ

u/vote100binary · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I have no experience with some of these specific items but I wouldn't hesitate to buy them from what I've seen:

The cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Shielded-Waterproof-Ethernet-trueCABLE/dp/B01JAVN1C8/

The "ends" -- these are keystone jacks. You could put RJ45 plugs on, but I think keystone jacks are more forgiving, plus it's more flexible since you can plug a patch cable into this. Also, putting RJ45 ends on this direct bury cable will be tricky since it will have thicker shielding.

https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Cat6-Keystone-Jack-Compatible/dp/B07JRD69V6

The punchdown tool -- you could get by with a cheaper/simpler one like this -- you'll probably want this for stripping the jacket (it does both), though a razor blade will work too:

https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Wire-Stripper-Rj45-Cat5-Cable/dp/B07MQB7STL/

This is kind of a basic middle of the road example of a proper punchdown tool, though the previous one is fine for a small amount of work.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Storage-Interchangeable-Reversible-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/

Once punched down, you can plug those keystone jacks into wall plates like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Profile-Keystone/dp/B074HGPH18

Or surface mount boxes:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-2-Port-Surface-Mount-107089/dp/B0069MDB9U/

You could even find a small patch panel.

u/Melphor · 6 pointsr/XWingTMG

This Plano box for storing my extra ships and components. I have 4.

This Plano tacklebox for storing and transporting the lists that I'm currently playing. You can definitely fit all that. I also recommend getting some bubble wrap. They sell it in large rolls at hobby stores like Hobby Lobby. I bought a roll for like $5 a couple years ago and I still haven't used it all. It makes for good padding.

u/22cthulu · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

As others have mentioned the Plano makes several great cases that work great for X-wing

Here's what it looks like with ships/dials/bases/tokens inside of it. I caulked the bottom of the trays since they didn't sit flush I can fit almost all of my Rebel fleet inside of it. The only thing I can't fit is a YT-2400, though I took out the Ghost I could fit several more easily. I picked mine up at Harbor Freight on sale for $9

u/arcbuffalo · 2 pointsr/harrypotter

I got him this single knife and this set here . They are good enough to get you started.

For the core, ya I am putting something...interesting in it. My buddy and I are trying to figure out an easy way of hollowing out the middle of our "branches" without damaging the integrity too much. That same buddy has a magnificent red beard, beautifully manicured, so we are going to be pulling some of those off, braiding them, and coring the wand with that. If any material we muggles have contains magical properties, it's that beard.

u/InsidiousToilet · 1 pointr/woodworking

Great info, I appreciate it greatly! I've seen a few of Paul Sellers' videos on sharpening, so I'm not sure why they're called "scary sharpening", but it does look like it takes quite a bit of time, but I've got plenty of that while my wife and children are out of the country visiting relatives. I don't have an Aldi nearby, and they don't seem to sell from their web site, so I think I may be out of luck on those famous chisels. Every time I try to search for them online, I end up with links like this to Amazon, even when just looking for singles.

u/bigj231 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I bought a set at my local hardware store. They're the doitbest brand precision screwdrivers. http://www.amazon.com/5-Piece-Best-Precision-Screwdriver-SCREWDRIVER/dp/B000HE89Z2
They've been great for the past few years I've had them. The star versions of those aren't so hot though.. I've ruined 2 of the T5 drivers working on firearms and RC cars. The rest of them have stood up to some pretty serious abuse though.

I've had these before, but they are kind of small to hold onto when turning larger screws: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1393730634&sr=1-2&keywords=Precision+Screwdriver
They work fine though IME.

If you want to buy the best you can get, Klein tools makes a mighty fine set of screwdrivers. They're pretty expensive though. http://www.amazon.com/Klein-85614-Piece-Electronic-Screwdriver/dp/B0076RWZMQ/ref=sr_1_37?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1393730830&sr=1-37&keywords=Precision+Screwdriver

u/MyNameIsAdam · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

Nice man, both your kits are pretty solid. I'm at work so I can't be as thorough as I would like but here are a few ideas that stood out.

1/8" Pad: Drop it, cut two panels off your zlite to use as the frame and then just pull them out the pack to use at night to sleep. I did this all summer with my KS50 and it worked great. You'll need to cut a little bit off the width for it to fit, but it's minimal and not noticeable when sleeping.

Headlamps: There are much lighter headlamp options and many prefer flashlights for night hiking to bring the light closer to waist level and elongate the shadows. You can also clip them to a brim of a hat for hands free use around camp. A little thrunite ti3 would be a good bet if you don't plan on much night hiking, or a Nitecore Tip 2017 for night hiking.

Knife: The Victorinox Classic SD only weighs 22grams or if all you need is a knife check out Spyderco Ladybug at 16grams. Avoid amazon for the ladybug, there are counterfeits going around i hear.

FAK: You could likely pair this down, mine only weighs 1.5oz

Houdini P/O: Seems unnecessary with the versalite? But I've never worn the Nano-Air Light Hoody, is the idea that the houdini would provide a breathable wind barrier when used in combination? I know this is a common strategy with fleece.

Kahtoola Micro Spikes: If we end up needing them this year I'm going to try Snowline Chainsen Light. Quite a bit lighter than microspikes.

On a side note, when do you start? I'm heading out on May 18th. Edit: Nevermind...somehow missed this in your post...maybe I'll see you all in Oregon or Washington! I'm targeting a late August finish.

u/OralOperator · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I don't think you are my wife, so I'll make a couple suggestions.

Do you know what kind of a camera he has? Here are a couple possible answers: Xiaomi Yi, Mobius. If he has one of these, he may be happy to upgrade to a GoPro.

What kind of quadcopter does he have? Does he fly fast and low to the ground, or high and slow to take pretty videos? This could help us make recommendations.

Here's a cheap tool that would make a good stocking stuffer: Irwin Industrial Tools 2078300 8-Inch Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper with ProTouch Grips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_hKlCwb2TJVW66

Have you ever seen him use a lighter or fire to heat up heat shrink? If he doesn't have a heat gun, that would be a good gift. Here is an example of one:
Wagner 0503008 HT1000 1,200-watt Heat Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_GLlCwbAQPAKS4

u/DriedT · 1 pointr/hometheater

Ask the current owner if they will leave the TV mount for you, you can even offer to pay/buy them another one if they decline. With that already in place you could probably lift it yourself, if you get an LED LCD, or find someone to help lift it, no skills required.

Speakers are incredibly easy to hookup, you just cut wire to length, pull the two ends apart a bit, strip the ends, stick it in the holes, and tighten. A youtube video and a few practice strips will make it a breeze in no time even if you've never used tools. You'll need these wire cutters, and optionally these auto-strippers, and some wire.

As far as your setup goes you could get the following, or anything similar:

TV $785 - 50" Samsung LED

Receiver $310 - Denon AVR1913

Subwoofer $280 - Newegg has the Klipsch RW-12D for $280 until 5/22.

L/R speakers ~$300- Polk or Pioneer towers from Newegg

Center ~$150- A matching Polk or Pioneer center from Newegg

Surrounds - none yet; the wiring would require some drilling to conceal, if you have a crawl space going under the floor would probably be your best bet.

Adjust as needed to fit your budget or to get any features you want; pushing closer to $2000 and installing it yourself would be best.

EDIT: I forgot to add that tower speakers just stand on the floor, no mounting required. The center channel will just sit on the top shelf of whatever entertainment center you have under the TV, put it flush with the front edge of that. You will also need a single RCA cable to connect the subwoofer to the receiver, you may have one already, any RCA cable will work, or you can buy a 10ft+ one for ~$8.

u/bcphotog · 8 pointsr/ar15

Just a simple setup would be, in no particular order:

 

  • Vise
  • AR Tool - I have a powder coated green AR tool, forgot who makes it.
  • Screwdrivers
  • Good Lighting - Seriously, a good light source goes a long ways in the ease of building things. I have a drafting lamp very similar to this type.
  • AR Mat - Useful for putting stuff together (and cleaning of course) your AR on your desk/dinner table, so your wife or SO won't murder you. I have this cleaning mat.
  • Roll Pin Punches - I used a set of regular punches from Lowe's for a while, i finally got around to getting a set of actual roll pin punches on Amazon recently.
  • Small Hammer - I got this small 8-ounce hammer on Amazon. It's perfect for use with the roll pin punches.
  • Mallet - Useful for hitting things without marring up the finish.
  • Vise Block - I use a Magpul Bev block for work on my lower or upper. Waiting for the next Geissele sale so i can snag a Geissele Super Reaction Rod to replace the Bev block on upper work.
  • Allen Wrenches - I have this set of 3 hex-torx allen wrenches. Super handy for rails and other mount screws. Might also want a long handle set if you use a hex screw for your pistol grip like i do.
  • Torque Wrench - I have this Tekton torque wrench for barrels nuts, castle nuts (if you do torque yours, i don't usually), and whatever else needs to be torqued.
  • Torque Screwdriver Kit - I have this Wheeler Torque Wrench/Screwdriver set, super handy for screws that require a certain torque spec.

     

    That's what i can think of off the top of my head, you probably won't need all of that if you only plan on building a lower first. It'll be useful down the line to get most of those tools, but i'd go with first:

  • AR tool
  • Bev Block/Vise Blocks/Reaction Rod
  • Roll Pin Punches
  • Vise

    If you have Amazon Prime, there's quite a bit of stuff you can get on there, it's where i got most of my tools.

     

    ^Edit: ^Formatting.
u/nj2fl · 3 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

These two things and some tape are all you need for beautiful headlights. You go through the levels from coarse to fine sanding in alternating directions, vertical with one pad then horizontal with the next. You only need to use 4 or 5 pads, I went through the whole set the first time and found the last couple to be too fine to do much. Clear coat after they're sanded and dry and your good to go for years to come.

2 inch by 2 inch Micro Mesh Soft Touch Sanding Pads
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H6EC4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TuITCbWP205TA

Meguiar's G17804 Keep Clear Headlight Coating
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4RVVX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6wITCbNGG9B7W

u/zanfar · 0 pointsr/HomeNetworking

While you can get good punches with those, you need to make sure your keystone is on a good solid surface, and press down cleanly and smoothly; make sure not to "rock" the tool from side to side as it might crimp or otherwise damage the wire. (A keystone "stand" might help) Your keystone should also have come with a protector which you should use immediately as it helps seat the wire as well.

If you expect to do this regularly, the investment in a real 110 punch-down tool is worth it. I'm a huge fan of the comfort-grip Fluke, but there are many other brands which will do just as good of a job for a quarter of the price (they're just not as comfortable or feature-packed).

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FGWPK2/
Fluke Comfort Punch: $70

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D/
TrendNet 110 Punch: $17

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008NXK3NU/
Keystone Stand: $6

IMO a 110/66 punch-down tool is the only cabling tool a networker still needs in her bag.

u/Tec_ · 1 pointr/CarAV

They come in many flavors but I have this. It's a self adjusting or automatic wire stripper. They make life easy stripping normal wire ends but they also allow you to strip mid wire quite easily. The same thing can be accomplished with a normal wire stripper it just takes a little more effort.

u/William_Harzia · 1 pointr/preppers

Morakniv bushcraft. Great blade, great friction fit sheath, nice tacky handle, plus it comes with a firesteel and sharpening stone built in to the sheath. I have dozens of knives--some waaaay more expensive--but this is my go to.

u/mrchristopher2 · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I've had this box cutter/ knife for a few years and it has held up very well. Gerber has a lifetime warranty that I will probably never have to use. I've owned many pocket knives but this one is hard to beat for quality. Best part about it is that it's under $8 on Amazon with Free Prime shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Lite-Pocket-Knife-31-000345/dp/B002RILCLY

u/Cool-Beaner · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Yes, give it a go on the Pi. I have been enjoying it for years.

One thing I forgot to mention. The audio output of the Pi sucks. It has a dynamic range of 11 bits. Even these $6 USB sound cards do better. I use the Behringer UFO202 because I have a turntable, but the Behringer UCA202 is great if you have a Digital Input on your HiFi.
There are a ton of USB and I2C DACs that will work well.

u/DaNPrS · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking
  1. No. Crimping Tool is used to terminate a cable. A Punch Down Tool is used to terminate a keystone jack/wall plate or patch panels.

  2. If you use an unmanaged switch (which you probably should), yes it's pretty much plug and play.

  3. All the ethernet runs need to plug into the switch, where it is, is up to you. What you've described would work fine. But why not move the modem too while you're at it?! What's stopping you from running the coax from the cable company to said office?! I'm suggesting that you keep all equipment in one place.

  4. That's up to you. This has a hole in the ceiling, wires to the patch panel, then to the switch, then to the router. Or you can get a couple of wall plates. If it's a closet, I'd go with the patch panel.

  5. Any physical obstruction will impair the wifi. Hence I suggest making a couple of runs to the ceiling, one up one downstairs and installing APs. You wifi will never be the same.

  6. Your router does not have enough ports for the runs you're making. Yes, you'll definitely need a switch.
u/HimTiser · 2 pointsr/guns

I never leave home without my Blur, I found it to be the best knife for the money. They are built like tanks, the opening assist is really nice, and the blade shape is ideal for me.

u/ilikesidehugs · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Made in USA kershaw blur - excellent sale price right now.

Has a speed safe opening component that makes its utility that much better. Really good steel blade for the price. I've had mine for two years now with no issue. Keep it oiled and also it's pretty easy to sharpen. You may also send it in to the manufacturer and they will sharpen it for you.

Check out this deal:
Kershaw S30V Blur Steel Blade Knife with SpeedSafe

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015ZXCT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ahmrybP05YA77

EDIT: just realized that you meant utility as in a razor cutter. My bad

u/WhoPutDatPlanetThere · 1 pointr/woodworking

I'm looking to get into woodworking and just when I thought I had my starter tools picked out I got distracted! I have been looking at the Japanese style tools and I am mainly curious about if it would be possible to find a set of three or four general purpose ones for a price that is not so intimidating of an entry fee compared to all the premium handmade ones. I was planning on getting this 4 piece Narex set ..... I wouldn't want to go over $100 for a set and would be much more comfortable around $50 similar to the Narex ones. Since it is just my curiosity getting the better of me I would also be okay with getting a single Japanese chisel in a commonly used size with the intention of experimenting with the style.

​

I would also appreciate some small beginner project ideas! Don't have a ton of room for random chairs and all that nonsense to lay around so something small that helps me practice. I am interested in connecting wood with joins and dowels and using as few nails as possible.

u/frankduxvandamme · 3 pointsr/boardgames

This case made by Plano is outstanding for holding everything Carcassonne. The compartments on top hold all of the tokens and them some with each being able to have their own separate compartments, and the inside compartments hold all of your tiles plus room for labeling and plenty of room for extra stuff as well. A few pieces of paper like your collections rules can also fit inside as well.

u/lukebox · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I tried this one, and had to ditch it after a few days. I kept it clipped in my front pocket, and any time I would bend at the hip, or squat, the tip on the but end would poke right into me. Had to take it out of my pocket when I drove. Albeit, I'm real skinny. I loved the action, but I can't carry it. I keep it in my toolbag now.

I've since replaced it with this Gerber. It doesn't hold any blades, and I had to loosen the pivot to be able to flip it open one handed, but the size is awesome. You can use a coin to loosen the blade when you do need to replace it.

u/dar24601 · 1 pointr/dicemasters

Well i just got into this game just have one starter and just placed an order for a gravity feed. I'm just planning to use this plano lockjaw organizer. It worked great for when ran a Junior High D&D club, so planning on storing my dice, rule books and dice bags. And for the cards I'll use Deck box for my teams and then store any extras in BCW boxes from my baseball collecting days. It's a bit much for what i have know but it's what i have on hand don't want to spend money on storage rather save that money for when the DC Worlds Finest set is released.

u/hewlandrower · 1 pointr/knives

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1670S30V-Knife-Steel-SpeedSafe/dp/B0015ZXCT0/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1383043023&sr=1-1&keywords=s30v+blur

Excuse the long link, but I would point you in this direction. I think it's one of the best deals around. You get vastly superior S30V steel than the CRKT for a few more bucks, and it's american made (in case that matters to you).

u/HoosierCAD · 1 pointr/woodworking

Great thanks. So I'll probably pull the trigger on the Veritas Carcass saw....

For the Narex chisels, I am assuming these will work.


However, also read that Lee Valley is a good place to grab them....and they are $62 for a set of 4. :D
Thanks for the advice

u/noicedream · 3 pointsr/synthdiy

22 AWG stranded wire is pretty standard for wiring anything.

i usually buy these, as they're a good price, 2 day shipping w/ prime, and its a nice multi color kit, which helps when wiring...in case you have to trace the wire back to the board when debugging. plus everyone likes colors:

http://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-Hook-Wire-Stranded/dp/B00B4ZQ3L0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418566941&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+kit

http://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-Hook-Wire-Solid/dp/B00B4ZRPEY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418566941&sr=8-2&keywords=wire+kit

use shielded wire (with the 'shield grounded') for any audio signal inputs/outputs if you get noise. not 100% necessary, but might be worth it in the end for the sound quality and reducing any noise.

i also recommend you get a real wire stripper. this one is the bees knees:

http://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Self-Adjusting-Stripper-2078300/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1418567132&sr=1-2&keywords=wire+stripper

u/sunchops · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

My current backpack is falling apart, so a new one would be pretty awesome.

C'mon...gimme. You look fantastic today, I wish I could be as devilishly good looking as you!

I also could use a multitool. My Swiss Army knife is too big to carry around practically. And having a multitool is always useful.

u/Ruffianlink · 2 pointsr/EDC

I've lurked here for a while and thought I should make my first post.

I'm also looking for a better wallet similar to mine. I've checked out the Hitch and Timber Card Caddy, but can't justify the price. Any recommendations?

Any other feedback is also welcome :)

Small multi-tools (Pick one and goes in wallet front pocket)

u/rlexpan · 1 pointr/EDC

Items for outside the classroom

Biggest thing to carry is a bottle opener

Cheap Keychain Bottle Opener

You don't want some expensive bottle opener because you'll be passing it around alot and you might forget to ask for it back

BIC Lighter

Kershaw Cinder

BUT preferably swiss army knife classic
SAK Classic

or the rally with a bottle opener
SAK Rally
you sacrifice scissors for bottle opener

wallet
dont get a bifold wallet those are out of style no (no offense to anyone who still carries them) but a simple slim card holder is alot better and sleek

Things you need in the classroom

Best Red Pens a must for note taking
I wouldn't get the blue one uniball because its a dark blue almost black

So get these instead
BIC blue pen

Most "EDC" notebooks are expensive and offer very little sheets of paper. You could use one as an assignment pad but something with acutal dates is better so once you get your syllabus you can right down all the assignments during the first week.

Note books I would just go to walmart. You can get five subject notebooks for $2 now during their back to school special. Where ever you buy notebooks take advantage and buy for the spring semester because prices are only this cheap in aug/september.

Not your usual edc recommendations but I wasn't rolling in dough early on in my college career and rather let people borrow a cheap pen and let them keep it then stress about getting my pen back when I let the next person borrow it to sign in.

your edc should be what you like to carry and use

u/AnacondaPython · 1 pointr/EDC

I modified my setup a bit, to accodomodate feedback from other people and to see what works best for me

Somebody suggest to use this knife:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's my new setup:

RIGHT FRONT POCKET


Any dynomighty wallet, just pick a design

https://www.dynomighty.com/categories/

Car keys (whatever your carkeys are). If you want a USB stick added on to your keys, use a Micro-HDMI for low profile and convenience

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RBGYGPG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LEFT FRONT POCKET


Iphone6, Samsung S6, etc etc. Whatever floats your boat

Pick a small battery charger, search for it on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=portable+battery+charger&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aportable+battery+charger

Get a retractable cable for your charger if you need too (low profile)

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-Gold-Plated-Retractable-Micro-USB/dp/B00SVVY844/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558782&sr=8-4&keywords=USB+retractable+cable


JEAN COIN POCKET (on front right pocket)


That gerber fold up knife https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RIGHT MOST JEAN STRAP ( was the front right before)


Carbiner

https://www.amazon.com/LeBeila-Carabiner-Aluminum-Locking-Keychain/dp/B013NNG18U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558280&sr=8-1&keywords=carabiner

duck tape

Tape planet had the cheapest prices at $1.54 each

http://www.tapeplanet.com/Mini-Rainbow-Duck-Tape-Duckling-p/stdtpl-282322.htm

BACK LEFT POCKET


Measuring tape. This one has the lowest profile so it doesn't hurt to sit on, 10' is good enough for almost everything

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-115-10-Foot--4-Inch-PowerLock/dp/B00009OYGH/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558504&sr=8-7&keywords=measuring+tape

BACK RIGHT POCKET


Get sticky notes, I suggest highland brand 3"x3" since it works for nearly everything you might need sticky notes. I suggest getting both, alternate colors by day

Plain yellow:

https://www.amazon.com/Post--Markers-Assorted-Bright-670-10AB/dp/B007QFATEO/ref=sr_1_6?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1474558871&sr=1-6&keywords=sticky+notes

Color:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OCPJK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, get a sharpie too. Fine points are good

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Permanent-Markers-Point-Black/dp/B00006IFHD/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1474558955&sr=1-1&keywords=sharpie

Alternatively or ultra fine

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-37001WM-Permanent-Marker-12-Pack/dp/B00006IFI3/ref=pd_sim_229_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=08FBBP33PZV82ZY7AT41


--------------

that's my current setup

u/drnick5 · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Cat 6 is perfectly fine, as it can support up to 10Gb, so its pretty future proofed as 1Gb is still the standard. We won't see 10Gb becoming the norm for a while.

As far as cable, I usually get it from Monoprice, or sometimes from amazon. I just bought a 1000ft spool of Cat6 for like $65

If you are putting drops in each room, its probably best to put in wall plates, and punch down the cable to a jack. You'll need a Punchdown Tool for this.

I'd highly recommend running all the cables to a patch panel. Ideally have them run to the same location as your modem and other networking equipment. You'd use the same punch down tool here as well.

If you need to terminate any cables to a normal Ethernet connector, it isn't difficult, but it is a bit tedious. The first one you do will take you a bit to do, but once you get the hang of it, each one will become a little quicker. you can watch a youtube video on how to do it.
You'll need a Crimping tool to crimp the ends on.

u/RobAtSGH · 2 pointsr/Volkswagen

The hood latches tend to seize up over time, especially if you don't lubricate them occasionally. Had the same problem on my Mk5 Jetta. If it's seized and not a broken cable, you can generally fix it pretty easily.

You need three things: a small screwdriver, a can of lightweight break-free lube like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster penetrating oil, and a can of spray lithium lube.

Pop the safety latch and prop the hood. Locate the hood latch assembly. Using the precision tube on the spray lube, saturate the inside of the latch and latch plate with the penetrating oil (try to keep overspray from rubber parts). Let sit for 30 seconds or so, and then press on the open side of the latch with the screwdriver until the latch plate releases and locks. Pull the hood release in the cabin to reset. Repeat several times until the latch snaps closed freely when you press on it with the screwdriver. Respray with penetrator if necessary.

Use a shop towel to mop up as much penetrating oil as you can and spray the entire inside of the latch assembly with as much spray lithium as it will hold. Work the mechanism a few more times to get it into the pivot and latch plate as much as possible. Re-saturate with lithium grease and button up.

Every time you change your oil, you should relubricate the hood latch with spray lithium to keep this from happening.

EDIT: Linkies.

u/ayearago · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

This is a selection of what I keep in my tech go-bag. You'll build your kit as you learn and build experience, or realize you could have helped a customer out of a jam quicker if you had that tool with you.

u/GODDDDD · 0 pointsr/gifs

Just about every hand-tool manufacturer has their brand attached to these. This one seems like it has the most trust on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-VISE-GRIP-2078300-Self-Adjusting-Stripper/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526925570&sr=1-4&keywords=wire+strippers+self

if you can find a more reputable brand like knipex that has them and you want to pay for german engineering, I'd recommend it.

Vise-grips is under the stanley black&decker umbrella so YMMV with quality. Everyone else looks like they use the same or similar manufacturer based on the lack of much discernible difference apart from the handles

u/alllmossttherrre · 1 pointr/applehelp

Although on earlier MacBook Pros the audio jack had both output and input contacts, on the 2018 (which I own) it is only listed as a "headphone jack" and not under inputs. I thought I might have read that they changed this at some point. So I have some doubts as to whether you can get audio in through the headphone jack.

If you find a cable that makes it work as an input, then I am wrong about that. But there are other things to consider.

Traditional turntables output an RIAA signal which is not suitable for normal line input. Those require a "phono preamp" to transform the signal into line level for Line In ports on audio equipment (and for Macs that have a real Line In). But if you have a turntable with a built-in phono preamp or already connected one, ignore this paragraph. If you need one, they are relatively inexpensive.

If you find out that you can't use the headphone jack as an input, your other option is to use a USB audio interface. This would have analog audio jacks for the incoming signal, and a USB port to connect to a USB port on your Mac. It would show up as an input source in your Mac Sound system preference pane. While there are many USB audio interfaces out there, if you need a phono preamp make sure that is included.

If you realize you need a USB audio interface, this is an example of what I mean and it's less than $30. I do not know how good that one is becaue I have a different brand that cost about the same price, but the reviews are positive.

As far as software, GarageBand should be able to do it, if you want something more focused, Audacity is free and widely used for these types of conversions.

u/NYstate · 2 pointsr/Tools

On Amazon the Wen 2305 and up have pretty good reviews. Same with the Black And Decker one you suggested.

WEN 2305 Rotary Tool Kit with Flex Shaft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_U240xb88A6B97

Are the collets universal?

Thanks for the help.

u/daewood69 · 1 pointr/dice

Use some micromesh like this: MicroMesh and then some nice plastic polish after you go through the grits to keep them shiny.

Granted I haven't done this on any dice but I've removed scratches from plexiglass and acrylic this way and its pretty good all said and done.

u/Philanthropiss · 6 pointsr/todayilearned

Yeah that's easy. PB Blaster...by far the best stuff I've ever used at removing bolts or other severly rusted/stuck things(far far better than WD-40)

Just read these reviews...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B000I2079E/ref=mw_dp_cr

u/Mister_Po · 2 pointsr/EDC

This might be a little small, but I just picked up a Leatherman Style PS for my keychain and I love it so far. It's replaced my much larger Leatherman Charge as part of my EDC since I pretty much only used the pliers and scissors.

u/hovissimo · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I had really good luck with light sanding, and then burnishing with the aluminum handle of an x-acto knife.

I've also had SUPER smooth results with the wood-fill using sanding/polishing sponges. (https://smile.amazon.com/MICRO-MESH-SOFT-TOUCH-SANDING/dp/B000H6EC4C)

u/conrthomas · 2 pointsr/knives

Just throwing in my opinion, I own a Kershaw Blur S30V. It's an assisted open and the action is extremely smooth. The factory edge is wonderful, and S30V holds an edge like a champ. I would highly recommend it.

u/John3524536645 · 1 pointr/Tools

WEN ($20) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BYRFH8/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Taclife ($40) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6RH433/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01N6RH433&pd_rd_wg=PJD3y&pd_rd_r=9AWBVZAGWHC8CD634DX4&pd_rd_w=PY0Hg

This Dremel looks nice ($75-$120+). Idk, I'll pay for whatever is best. I want to make sure all my silver is shiny so when I die it will look pretty while my copse turns into worm poo.

u/Istartedthewar · 3 pointsr/PSP

If you do electronics stuff fairly regularly, I'd recommend one of the ifixit kits. They're kinda pricy but really high quality bits.


You can get cheaper ones that are still pretty good like this screwdriver kit for $15, https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525454044&sr=8-4&keywords=Screwdriver+kit

Or if you want one with every little tool you could ever possibly need this is a good deal for $35. https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Precision-Screwdriver-Magnetic-Electronics/dp/B06Y2N568J/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525454044&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=Screwdriver+kit&psc=1&smid=A2FOADTO08BQD0

Just don't get one of the sub $10 kits that come with all sorts of extra junk, those bits and tools are really low quality in my experience.

u/emqz · 1 pointr/pencils

I love using my utility knife to sharpen my pencils. Inexpensive, easy to carry and you can buy a pack of 50 for 10 bucks.I just got this bad boy and it's working out pretty great.

u/123farmer · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

x 2! the Mora is a good starter work knife. They are cheap enough to have a few, which is better IMO than one super expensive knife. I keep one in my vehicle, one in my winter emergency bag, and one with my camping stuff. Plus a few other lying around, I think. (I'm not even sure how many I have now...)

They are not perfect, but for the price they are a great value.

u/experimentrx78 · 3 pointsr/XWingTMG

Save for the epic ships, I essentially have a very similar number/distribution of ships as you. I use the Plano 5231. One for the rebels and one for the empire. It does a good job of holding all the small ship, cards, and maneuver dials in the bottom. And the top works well for all the small focus/evades/TLs and such on the top. The only problem I have with it is the storage of the larger ships. I can only seem to fit one YT-1300 in for the rebels, and one firespray plus lambda for the empire. Over all for the price I am happy with them, and there is still room for small ships. I just need to figure out something for larger ships

u/xterraadam · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

If you want an inexpensive folder that will work for carving Try this:

https://www.amazon.com/Benchmade-Mini-Griptilian-Folding-Knife/dp/B019J0DYY0/

That's my daily EDC btw. I like the Benchmade with the "spyderco blade" in it. Works good, it's fairly sharp out of the box, that kinda thing.

compare the blade shape to a dedicated carving knife:

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Carving-Knife-Laminated-2-35-Inch/dp/B004GATX62

Then when you want a little nicer handle...

http://wilkins-knives.com/wilkinsgrip

u/CJOttawa · 1 pointr/CampingGear

I have the Light My Fire in my car camping kitchen kit.

It's very similar to a Morakniv Companion but with the addition of the firesteel. You can get it in black if you want something unobtrusive; I prefer bright (green, orange) so it stands out if dropped, or just if it's buried in a pack. Bright colours also tend not to squick other campers out as much as black. (as dumb as that sounds/is)

The Massdrop price is ridiculously low. At $19, it's worth buying one for your kit and another to keep around for a gift for some future friend's birthday.

One thing: the Morakniv Bushcraft has a 50% thicker blade and much better suited to tasks like batoning.

u/zombiedodge · 2 pointsr/cars

My first job as a mechanic was working on mostly pre-'86 cars and trucks. My boss handed me a can of this awesome stuff called PB Blaster and since then, I always give rusty bolts a good soaking in it before making attempt. I have never broken a bolt off since and all I work on are '60's and '70s Mopars and frequent junkyards. I hope this helps

u/korgothwashere · 5 pointsr/EDC

I use my Every Day Carry items....every day....which is why I carry those items, every day.

Used my Fenix UC35 last night during our snow storm to keep an eye on the dogs, and to explore the dark winter wilderness a little bit. I also daily a warm knit hat and gloves for the season...which are also useful in the snow, for obvious reasons. Cut a very long loose string off my coat lastnight as well with the blade I've been carrying around for almost a decade now, my Sypderco Endura 4. My smaller Streamlight Stylus Pro wasn't needed, but was there if for some reason I developed a use for it.

Just recently got a Leatherman Squirt PS4 which I carry in the little coin pocket of my jeans. It's scissors are very handy in replacement of my older Victorinox Classic which works great for the tweezers and toothpick, but it's scissors have had it. Anyway, I used the Leatherman to file down a couple finger nails I tore up lifting a CVT onto a cart two days ago. The single cut file was good enough to keep the jagged edges of my nails from snagging my gloves, so it's alright in my book.

Frequently use my lighter, a Ronson Jetlite to flip around as a fiddle item or to light periodic items asunder, or to bond them to each other (in the case of paracord).

u/Toph19 · 2 pointsr/EDC

It's not quite the same but I have something like the Gerber EAB for a small carry and love it. Uses a utility knife blade tho. https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Lite-Pocket-Knife-31-000345/dp/B002RILCLY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=gerber+folding+knife&qid=1571754968&sr=8-4

u/heyyouyeahyou12 · 2 pointsr/boardgames

I am using this one: http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Molding-5231-Organizer-Porsche/dp/B000HJ9514/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413351375&sr=8-1&keywords=Xwing+case

It holds quite a bit. The top section has all the tokens and the bottom has a millennium falcon and a slave one, plus about 20 models. I could probably organize it to fit more though. I really like the all-in-one aspect. A solid choice I think. :)

u/twelveoclock · 3 pointsr/fountainpens

I noticed that the writing edge has a slight curvature to it. Did you use a squishy surface like a "pad" to do the grind or something with a solid surface like a stone? I've found that pads don't make the writing surface fully flat and you might want to try with a solid grinding surface in case you want to try on a steel nib in the future. I've found my results to be far better on my whetstone compared to my micromesh pads

u/edward3h · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I have this tool. It has a speed control, so I turn it to slow (ish) for drilling. It has a flex shaft so you can hold the tool end a bit more like a pencil or brush when working. I've used it for cutting and sanding/filing as well as drilling.

I had to buy some extra collets to hold my smaller drill bits.

I will say however that most of what I use it on are metal models (I'm an old-hammerer) and like others have said a hand turned drill may be fine on plastics.

u/Dman222123222 · 2 pointsr/EDC

You might be interested in something like the Gerber EAB or Gerber EAB Lite for that utility blade. Both are pretty nice. Ironically, the EAB is lighter than the EAB Lite.

u/[deleted] · 5 pointsr/guns

Heres some stuff I found.

For the political

Everyone loves a swiss army knife.

Or a leatherman

Or another leatherman

Gun: A Visual History

I actually own the last book. Its a pretty cool little book to flip through now and again.

u/Eckhart · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Totally man. I don't mind paying for good tools, but after a certain point you just get diminishing returns. The truck guys might make sense for someone who makes a living from their tools and, for some reason, can't drive to a store or wait 2 days for a replacement in the mail, but for anything else there's good tools to be found for reasonable cost.

For example, I love my Tekton 1/2" torque wrench. Thing is sturdy as hell, comes in a nice case, will do anything from 10ftlbs to 150ftlbs, and is only $40. It was the first tool I got from them, and I've been so impressed that nearly all of the hand tools I've purchased sense have been Tekton, if they make the tool in question.

I do occasionally end up at HF if I really need the thing same-day, or don't expect to use it more than a few times a year, but for the basics it's hard to beat Tekton in my experience. Hell, just the other day, I needed a T8 Securty Torx bit, so I ordered this thing and it's way better made than I expected it to be.

Reading back over this, I sound like a corporate shill, but I've found it hard to beat Tekton's intersection of price, quality, and Prime shipping.

u/massacre3000 · 3 pointsr/EDC

For Light Carry:

u/ConfessionsAway · 1 pointr/gadgets

They're nice but different builds are for different users. You might not use the scissors at all, but someone else might need them as the main use like these. I use the pliers more often than scissors as well, but like I said choose the right ones for you.

u/vff · 1 pointr/lockpicking

I think I may have found a solution:

  • WEN 2305-KC Keyless rotary tool chuck adjusts to accept any bit from 1/32" to 1/8", about $7
  • WEN 2305 rotary tool, about $20

    That should allow me to insert brass rod of any pin-sized diameter and make my own pins. I will just need to figure out a way to hold the rotary tool steady. Hopefully it'll fit in my vise.
u/Manse_ · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

The necessities are:

  • Precision screwdriver set (to use as mandrels)
  • Organic Cotton Pads (easier to work with than ball cotton)
  • Kanthal (in assorted gauges)
  • Ohm Reader (EDIT--added per V's reminder. There may be a better sauce for these, though).

    I'd recommend 26, 28, and 0.8x0.1 ribbon to start. That gives you a lot of options for building. You'll notice the first two links are add-on items on Amazon, so you'll have to buy $25 worth of wire, wire cutters, tweezers, or just add it to some other amazon order you're making.
u/Electric_Tiger01 · 1 pointr/woodworking

There's a few good videos to watch on YouTube. Here is a one I found useful

There's multiple tools that you can use, but I've found these two to be indispensable for the job.

Carving knife

Gouge

I also used a spokeshave and a hook knife. I didn't find the hook knife to be all that useful though. Another way to shape the outside of the spoon is with a belt/disc sander. I found that to be a quick, although very messy, way to get the rough shape I wanted. Then I'd clean it up with the spokeshave and knife. Sand it up to 400 or more then finish with a food safe product like howards butcher block conditioner

u/wldcrdbtchs_yeehaw · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

The good 'ol trusty Plano 5231 is $10 at Lowe's/Menard's/Amazon/K-Mart. I also have 3 of the double version (basically two of them plastered together) for each faction and it fits a good majority of my ships and I've been playing since Wave 1.

u/FourFingersOfFun · 1 pointr/watercooling

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGV/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491577769&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=precision+screwdriver+set&dpPl=1&dpID=41josrE03YL&ref=plSrch

Yeah I was going to go with the EK Vardar fans, I'm looking to keeps temps as low as possible mostly, but less sound would be nice as well. Would the EK Vardar 1450rpm pair well with a EK PE rad?