Reddit mentions: The best power paint & hvlp sprayers

• For containers I just use 1 pint cheap plastic containers that soups come in or deli give you. I guess you can find a nice piece of Tupperware that is about that size, and a taller one for taller prints. You could probly just ask the Deli guys at a food store for a few empty 1 pint containers + lids.
  
  
  • 2 containers - one with pure IPA and one with clean water. Good lids that won't leak.
    
    
• 91% or 99% IPA for cleaning your build plate / resin vat / scraping tools / desk / etc. and for using in the print wash container. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABPUGH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• More gloves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CF49NJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My palm width is about 3.6 inches / 9.2 cm and I bought the XL which fit ok.
  
  
• More paint strainers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQELZ7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Better removal tools: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Also get some Xacto knives + extra blades + sand paper sheets in varying grit 300-400 count for smoothing off support marks. https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527015690&sr=8-6&keywords=xacto+blade
  
  Try to find the flexible sand paper sheets that are meant to be hand-used. I found them in Loews 3m brand, this is the exact type of sheets i use: https://www.amazon.com/3M-COMPANY-28320SB-UF4-320G-Sandpaper/dp/B00PPD1CYA/ref=sr_1_7?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1527015867&sr=8-7&keywords=sandpaper+320+grit+3m
  
  
• Find a source for cheap paper towels. I use the real cheap paper towels that you find in bathrooms, the stuff that's really stiff and crappy. I don't use name brands such as Bounty or whatever because the higher quality kitchen paper towels leave behind bits of cloth dust, which is unwanted for cleaning the resin vat / build plate / LCD screen. You'll also go through shitloads of paper towels and the higher quality towels are a waste of money. https://imgur.com/7XeelfV
  
  
• Get a couple sunglasses cleaning cloths. Not the microfiber cloths with the consistency of a bathroom towel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L77OXE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B009L77OXE&pd_rd_wg=OcvWJ&pd_rd_r=3AAAFBB1202BXG3K8QN0&pd_rd_w=cwumx That's just an example - you can probly finder cheaper and better sized/quality towels such as: https://www.amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0050R67U0&pd_rd_r=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ&pd_rd_w=0uPs5&pd_rd_wg=eAMNx&psc=1&refRID=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ
  
  I use these cloths on the LCD screen and the resin vat FEP sheet. After cleaning the resin vat FEP sheet and the LCD with paper towels, I give them a nice polish with the cleaning cloth to remove any other smudges or dust. Make sure to have a cloth dedicated to ONLY the LCD screen, as you want the keep the LCD screen pristine and free of dust and smudges.
  
  You'll also want a print curing station to harden the prints once they have been cleaned. I bought:
  
  
• A plastic cookie jar; clear plastic, round: https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/oxo-good-grips-reg-3-piece-pop-canister-set/3262796?categoryId=12605
  
  
• UV LED Light Strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZQZDBR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Heavy duty tape, such as duct tape or gorilla tape. I used black gorilla tape.
  
  
• Aluminum Foil
  
  

1. Wrap the LED strip around the plastic container to this effect: https://imgur.com/oB98Qxl . Make sure you wrap so that the power cable connector will be at the bottom of the container. Make sure you secure the beginning and the end of the LED strip to container with a piece of tape.
   
   
2. Wrap the LED'd container with aluminum foil - shiny side facing inward. Lay out a long piece of foil on the floor, shiny side facing up, just enough to cover the container's length once. Secure the beginning of the foil piece with a piece of tape, and then secure the end of the foil. Try to wrap without causing creases in the foil, keeping the foil as shiny and smooth as possible. Make sure your power cable plug in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   
3. Secure a piece of foil to the base, shiny side facing inward.
   
   
4. Secure a piece of foil to the lid, shiny side inward. Take a piece of tape and make a 2-sticky-sided loop to secure the foil. Make sure the foil is not interfering with the lid's ability to securely close.
   
   
5. Wrap the whole thing with your gorilla or duct tape. Make sure your power cable plug-in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   

Lots of good reviews on the Ryobi brad nailer, and cordless/(no air hose) is certainly very appealing.

Pneumatic nailers are still a little smaller than the cordless ones, so a little better for getting into tight corners when doing baseboard (inside corners under cabinet toe kicks, etc).

The pneumatic tools are also just so inexpensive once you have the compressor. I thought I mainly needed a brad nailer, but the 1/4" stapler has been very handy as well. Just replaced the carpeting on the cat tree, and the stapler made it a breeze. The Harbor Freight 2-in-1 nailer/stapler has poor reviews so I'd avoid it, but the separate tools have been great. I had a bad experience with the HF staples, but Dewalt staples in the HF stapler have worked well.

18ga brad nails are fine for most trim, but I feel like they are just barely enough for baseboards. I just got a 16ga nailer and I like them much better for baseboard. I feel like 18ga is perfect for light trim up to 1/4" or 3/8" thick, and 16ga is better for 1/2" or thicker, especially if it is dense like MDF.

I really like Flexzilla air hose; very soft and flexible with no kinking. Also put a swivel connector on the guns.

Pancake compressor will definitely not be enough for an HVLP sprayer. Would work for an airbrush, or possibly a small sprayer like the Critter spray gun.

Compressor can be pretty noisy and annoying indoors. Either look at the quiet ones like California Air Tools or HF's new quiet ones, or just buy 100ft of hose so you can leave the compressor outside while you work inside.

That has a really small nozzle on it. It's for doing touch up work like the description says. If that's what you need it for, it would pry work great for you. I'd suggest shopping around, check amazon out. They generally have pretty good prices, but even if you find a better deal elsewhere, you can at least find informative reviews.

If you want a gun that is good for laying down paint over an entire car, and is a good all purpose gun, then you want a 1.4mm nozzle. But if you are laying down primer then you might be able to get away with the 1.4mm but slightly bigger like 1.7mm is better because primer is thicker.

Here is a decent gun for cheap. But you can also get kits for around $100 that have a touch up, top coat, and primer gun. You definitely don't need an expensive gun to get good results.

It takes a little time to setup the gun. For instance, you need to drain all the water from your air compressor. Set up the air pressure and fan and flow correctly. Make sure to get the hardener, reducer, paint ratios right. The paint will come with a general guide for it, but you won't know if it's good until you start spraying. If you see orange peels in the finish then you need to put in more reducer and/or lay it down heavier. If it looks hazy then more hardener or if it's running then you need less reducer or lay it down lighter. But once you get the hang of it, it's much better than rolling. If you have any more questions, let me know. I can give you some links that helped me if you would like them.

I have recently purchased my first home with my fiancée, and like all of you, have an enormous list of projects we'd like to do. I am fairly handy and am prepared to tackle any project (with supervision on electrical). All that being said, I have always used other people's tools when working on projects, so I don't have many of my own. I have a budget and would like to purchase all of my tools on Black Friday/Cyber Monday to get the best bang for my buck. I'd like your advice on which tools are the best for my budget.

We are planning on renovating the master bed, bath, and closet, kitchen, mudroom, and the laundry room. I also plan on making a kitchen table, coffee table, cabinets, dresser, etc. The first project is the laundry room and mudroom, which will require tile, built-ins, cabinets, and replacing washer/dryer. I have a tool budget of $5k-7.5k (ideally staying on the lower end) and would like your thoughts on my equipment list.

If you've used any of this below, what did you think? Are there any cheaper or better alternatives I should consider?

• Table Saw w/ fence JET ProShop II 725004K $1,500 http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/the-jps-10-1-75-hp-115v-30-proshop-tablesaw-with-steel-wings/725004K
  
• Mitre Saw Dewalt 15 Amp 12" $500 https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-12-in-Double-Bevel-Sliding-Compound-Miter-Saw-DWS780/202922350
  
• Drill Press Dad's old press $0
  
• Router Bosch MRF23EVS $220 https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-MRF23EVS-Electronic-Fixed-Base-Trigger/dp/B002LASDGK
  
• Plung Router Bosch MRC23EVSK 2.3 HP (Is this a good Plunge router?) $280https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Combination-Fixed-Base-Variable-MRC23EVSK/dp/B002LASDGA
  
• Router Table Bosch RA1181 $200 https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Benchtop-Router-Table-RA1181/dp/B000H12DQ6
  
• Modular Table base Should I build this? $200
  
• 8 large clamps Jet Parallel Clamps (Does Jet make quality clamps?) $600https://www.amazon.com/Jet-70411-Parallel-Clamp-Cabinet/dp/B000F79022
  
• Planer Dewalt DW735 $500 https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735-13-Inch-Thickness-Planer/dp/B0000CCXU8
  
• Joiner Delta Power Tools 37-071 6 Inch MIDI-Bench Jointer $450 https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Power-37-071-MIDI-Bench-Jointer/dp/B00IYJCFIY
  
• Vacuum Jet 1HP $400 https://www.woodcraft.com/products/jet-650-cfm-dust-collector-with-bag-filters-1-hp-model-dc-650?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIupH4jIn83QIVReDICh2P9QS4EAQYASABEgIgYPD_BwE
  
• Band saw Model Jet JWB-10 $450 https://www.woodcraft.com/products/jet-10-open-stand-bandsaw-model-jwb-10
  
• Finish Nailer Dewalt DCN650D1 (Already have 20V Dewalt Drill) $300https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-16-Gauge-Cordless-Angled-Finish-Nailer-Kit-DCN660D1/206528533
  
• Framing Nailer Dewalt DCN692B (Already have 20V Dewalt Drill) $400https://www.nailgundepot.com/dewalt-dcn692b-lithium-ion-battery-cordless-framing-nailer-details.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo6Ddtor83QIVw4CfCh1EIg2zEAQYASABEgK-pvD_BwE
  
• Paint Sprayer Graco Magnum 257025 $240 https://www.amazon.com/Graco-257025-Project-Painter-Sprayer/dp/B004Z2090U
  
  Last question: does anyone know where I can find plastic sawhorses that allow me to put a 2x4 across the top, but also allow the legs rotate for easy storage? My dad had these growing up and I cant find them anywhere. I have found all plastic ones, but I'd like to have the wood so I can saw through it and replace it as needed.
  
  Thank you for your help! I look forward to keeping you updated with our projects.

I'm considering plasti dipping my entire car as well. Me and a buddy ran the numbers the other night and I can't remember it all, but it seemed really reasonable. I think buying the spray gun will be one of the more expensive parts, but once I have it, I have it. And then if someone else decides they want theirs done, I can do it for them for a slight cost ;)

It does look the same as far as I can tell. From what I read, plasti dip has a little rougher of a finish, where this doesn't. But I can't say for sure because I've never used the plasti dip.

Yes, I just used a spray can for the rims, I suggest buying one of the contraptions that you put on the can that makes spraying easier though. My fingers went numb 20 minutes into doing it. It's been over 48 hours now and I still have no feeling in either of my index fingers. I'm not exaggerating in the least. http://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82 Something like that is what I mean.

I'm thinking it will hold up very well, there's one spot I need to redo. It's where they put the wheel weights on the outside of the rim. One of the wheels didn't take to it well so it peeled a tiny bit. Just going to cut the section out and spray it again, it's only about an inch long.

A friend plasti dipped his motocross rims, apparently sprayed it right over dirt and everything, his has been on there for 3-4 years now and he says it still looks great. So take from that what you will, but it should last a long time if you do it well. Even if you have to touch a few things up after a year, it's cheap and easy to do!

I bought a used Fuji Mini-Mite 3 via CL and it's been an absolute joy to use. I realize that's a little better quality than you're looking for but as long as you're not trying to vaporize super thick latex with a cheap unit most clear woodworking finishes should spray fine with more economical units.

Edit: This Earlex is considered to be pretty good for the price and is a huge step up from a plastic gun.

I use a Grex TG3 with an Aspire Pro compressor. I hear good things about the Badger Krome Renegade if you want a lower priced airbrush but I love the pistol grip for long sessions and the compressor is the best i've ever used and I find it fairly priced for how awesome it is.

I’ve used this spray gun from amazon to do a fence, a shed and a few art projects for Halloween. This thing is amazing. I am by no means a pro, but it did a perfect job, and it’s easy to use, low overspray and super easy to clean.

Honestly, don't bother with either of those compressors. You REALLY want one with a tank. For precision painting, the tank ensures an even air flow, while the kind that don't have a reserve tank sometimes can't keep up with consistent spray.

I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR--Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1449878332&sr=1-1&keywords=airbrush+compressor+with+tank

YES, it's more expensive, but honestly if you want to do it, I highly suggest you do it right. Had several friends buy those starter kits and they always wound up replacing both the compressor and brush it comes with, thus spending more.

Speaking of brush, those brushes are pretty bad. They aren't precision machined, so they use O-Rings all over the place. Those are hard to clean and a point of failure.

I have two airbrushes that I adore: an Iwata Revolution and a Grex (I forget the model)

You have a few different kinds of grips: a pistol grip and a pen grip. I have one of each and use them for different applications, but have found that I mostly prefer the Grex.

I think this is what I have: http://www.amazon.com/Grex-Tritium-TG3-Trigger-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B002XQ2K5W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449878477&sr=8-2&keywords=Grex+Airbrush

Someone can probably recommend a cheaper alternative-

I recommend a gravity feed. Side feed and vacuum feed are both more of a pain to clean, and don't work so well with small amounts of paint for miniature work.

Anyways, just my opinions and observations. YMMV!

Awesome.. thanks for that info, much appreciated. I may try the grille swap myself using this guide.. I have done stuff like this on my old accord and altima but heard its trickier on these cars.

But thanks for the guide, I am going to look it over when I get out of work.

They sell these handles you can put over the plastidip can to give it a more even coating and helps the back and forth motion as well as your finger from pressing on the spray tip.

https://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1466530359&sr=8-6&keywords=plastidip

Works really well and can use it for other spray bottles too.

Def keep me updated with pics and thanks again!

I'd skip all the brushes and rollers and get a simple HVLP sprayer. I used the Wagner HVLP MAX with excellent results. Used it for both primer and finish coats. I highly recommend a Waterbourne Alkyd paint, such as BM Advanced.

A cheap solution to the paint pyramids are some 2x4s with a few finish nails sticking out.. you prob already have this stuff laying around.

I see you already ordered new hinges, but pending what year your cabinets are, going to a Euro hinges, really helps modernize the look.. tho it can be a matter of opinion. Good luck!

The car is a 2012 family owned Prius - it's nice enough that I would spend maybe 200 usd - or something like that. I have some wood projects that I think would look nicer if varnished with the gun - so ... might be worth getting acceptable quality

I'm working with 4.8 cfm at 40 psi. So I found this Iwata W101 with 1.3mm and 5.1 cfm at 35 psi - 200 usd ish. I see that it's quite respected for small jobs by pros, nice atomization.

​

Or this SprayIt Kit, or Neiko- similar price range - that specs wise work well with the small compressor. Seeing youtube vids I see that they're not as even as Iwata (not bad, just not in the same class) and tend to form a bit of orange peel (or maybe the painter wasn't as skilled). I'm not an expert, just can't tell if these are crappy or acceptable good - good enough to forget the Iwata for 200 bucks.

For a while I was torn. I heard from this pro (see my other post) that you can spray diluted primer with a 1.3mm tip. So I thought that Iwata was everything I needed for a minimalist approach. Now that I sit on all these words I come to think I might want something like an Iwata for paint/clear and some SprayIt/Neiko gun for priming.

I have a Wagner that’s very similar to the one you’re looking at and actually really like it a lot. I’m just a weekend warrior, so it works very well for me. If you plan on using this thing daily, then you can’t go cheap. Get a better sprayer. But for quick, smooth, and easy painting at a good price, you can’t beat these sprayers.

As far as clean up, I use hot water immediately after I’m done and have never had issues. You’ll need to take it apart and use a toothbrush too. You may need to clean it with diluted paint thinner every now and then, so keep some handy. And learn how to thin paints. It makes a world of a difference once you start using the correct viscosity for the paint/stain/finish you’re using.

I fought with several sprayers, and kept paying more and more with no luck. Then bought this cheap piece o' crap to spray some stain on a fence (figure it'd be single us) - and it's amazing. Love using it, cheap, simple to use and clean. Most important, sprays great. https://www.amazon.com/HomeRight-C800766-C900076-Painting-Projects/dp/B003VKFDEO/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=paint+sprayer&qid=1572931296&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVDRTQjUwOEVEQU0wJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjUxNDUwMzI2M0tIQU4yME5ORSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTU3MTQ1MVVKTTlQNjNDOURQNyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Powdercoating isn't too expensive, but I don't know if places will do such a small item. Probably cost too much for them to setup/use their equipment for a lil job.

You can buy this http://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Powder-Coating-Voltage-Starter/dp/B002XE6HHG

and bake in a toaster oven.

Still about $200.

Might look at getting a Dura-coat kit or Cera-kote can for $25 or so. Really not hard to get an even finish, just hold your arm straight when you spray, in light coats.

I did my 870 pump in Dura-coat and was really pleased with the results for the price.

Hope that helps.

Painting contractor here.

100% do this task yourself. Ive been on another thread talking about the Wagner sprayer with some very unhappy customers. I would advise against it. You will 100% want to spray your fence. Just labor alone you'll be so thankful you did. If you choose to brush and roll, assuming your fence is decent sized, it will be a long task and you'll be miserable 1/2 the way through.

My advice...2 options

1. Rent a sprayer from Home Depot. Spray your fence with that big sprayer you rented in the late morning and be enjoying lemonade by late afternoon.
   
2. Purchase a modest priced Graco sprayer. Graco is a leading industry brand. They make homeowner quality sprayers in the $200-$300 price range. These sprayers aren't designed to be used heavily, like by a contractor. General life span is 30-100 gallons depending on if you keep it cleaned and filled with pump solution between uses and how thick of products you are running through it. For many homeowners that is long enough to last them 5-20 years however. I'd recommend this one for a homeowner in the market for a sprayer.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Graco-Magnum-262800-Airless-Sprayer/dp/B0026SR0FW/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=graco+paint+sprayer&qid=1572965700&sr=8-6
   
   Prior to any painting, look up Paint Life TV on Youtube. He is formerly known as "The Idaho Painter". This guy is the #1 painting channel on youtube and has 600+ videos. He has plenty of videos on spraying. Watch a few of his videos before you get started. How to prime the sprayer, how to clean after use. How to actually spray properly. Get a bit comfortable watching exactly what you're about to do before you get the sprayer in your yard that morning and things will run smooth for you.
   
   Hope this helps.

I painted 4 dozen mason jars. I used chalk board spray paint it worked great. 2 coats was best. Also one of these things helps a lot.

50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF beats damn near anything. If it's really stuck, hit it with a torch first and let it sit for about 15 mins.

ATF is filled with all kinds of detergents and dispersants. The Acetone thins it down to let it flow better and help it wick into the threads. I keep it in a spray can like this and use it all the time. It's cheap as all get out too.

After that there are a lot of things to try, In no particular order.

6 point wrench and a sharp strike, like with a hammer.

6 point wrench and strong constant force.

try tightening it first, sometimes you can break the bond that way

heat the nut with a torch, and cool the bolt rapidly. I've used a can of dust off turned upside down to cool.

strike the head with a hammer.

Breaker bar with a length of pipe slid over the handle. anyway to increase your leverage.

So just in case you are looking to try this I actually bought this at my local Sherwin-Williams thinking it would be a great alternative to spraying and it's just OK. Like others have said it had the same limitations as most spray paint with the advantage of being able to use custom colors. If you have any specific questions let me know

latex paint works best with an airless sprayer, but those will run you $300+.

I picked up a wagner https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0518080-Control-Spray-Sprayer/dp/B003PGQI48/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469559938&sr=8-3&keywords=paint+sprayer

works ok for such things. it cant quite vaporize the paint, even after thinning with some floetrol and water. But it works better than a brush.

Its certainly faster, but it does waste a fair amount of paint.

Still, I hate painting, Ive gotten my money's worth IMO. Though with the amount Ive used it, I wish i had gotten an airless sprayer.

seems to me one of these would make life easier as well. not sure if this specific model will fit on the can you choose but it looks like you'd make nicer passes with this than the can by itself.

https://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82

I have this sprayer and absolutely love it. Its sprays very evenly, painted the exterior of my house with it. Taping up is the hardest part when dealing with sprayers! My only complaint is that the hose is very stiff and is a bit short but I put the sprayer in my yard cart and pulled it with me around the house. Cleaning is really easy as well, just attach the garden hose to it (mine came with the adapter) and run it for a few minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Graco-257025-Project-Painter-Sprayer/dp/B004Z2090U

I LOVE mine (imposter model apparently). a fabricator buddy turned me onto them. We both keep acetone in them for cleaning. So nice, so, so nice. And a decent price for them too, not out of reach for an amateur

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035FH906/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

YES. I know that I'm going to get downvoted to hell because everyone on here says not to do it. And I don't have any experience using a professional sprayer.

BUT, I do have this Wagner sprayer with it's own mini-compressor (not attached to the gun, this is important) and it's awesome! I've used it to paint my whole house (interior). I've had very minimal (if any) overspray. I just tape off the molding and lay some paper down where the wall meets the floor and go to town. I actually bought one of those trim tools someone else suggested and add some Floetrol or water to make it easier to spray.

For 100 bucks, it's been a worthwhile investment. Taping off takes the most time...I find that I can paint a room in about 30min. It really makes up time in the cutting in, rolling, rolling, rolling, dipping the roller back in the pan, rolling some more. You just move your arm and spray until the container is empty.


Edit: All of you guys are pussies. There are a bunch of stay at home mommy bloggers who use paint sprayers and do just fine.

Guitar manufacturers typically use full-on professional spray equipment (such as HVLP) to do bursts, not airbrushes. For the home builder, an airbrush (like a Badger, Paasche or something) will work fine though. You can do hand-wiped bursts with dyes and stains, but not opaque paints; those must be done by spraying.

Which one is "better" just depends on what you want to do. Any method can be used by home builders and modders, but if you've never done it before it would be wise to practice on scrap wood first. Note that if you don't have a professional spray booth or even an airbrush and compressor, you can use PreVal sprayers, which are basically spray cans that you screw a jar onto the bottom of; the jar contains your paint of choice. PreVals can get kind of expensive (about $9 each, and you'll need a few for one guitar), so they're better for one-off projects; if you plan on doing a lot of painting, you'd be much better off investing in an air compressor and sprayer of some sort.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PGQI48/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

here is my HLVP...the reviews are probably better than I can do. I like it.

whether or not its worth it???? YES.....spraying the corners and fronts was sooooo much easier than using a brush....in fact, I cant imagine using brushes for this

An inexpensive (~$20) HVLP sprayer should work pretty well with your compressor. If you're trying to spray something "full on" you might find your compressor getting a bit behind. But large things like an arcade cabinet should really have the paint rolled on -- particularly if it's wood. You have to appreciate that there's always a lot of overspray and spending the time masking the object and covering everything in your garage takes a lot longer than just painting using a roller or brush.

Unless you're going to spend the money on a two-part paint your best bet at a tougher finish is an oil based paint (e.g. Rustoleum) and an enamel hardener. These hardeners come with a health risk and you really must use a good paint respirator (mask) when using them -- which is not to say you shouldn't always be wearing one when you're spraying paint, but y'know.

Flavortext: My buddy and I love hiking, foqund a cool lake and decided we wanted to get a boat, some fishing rods, and add fishing and boating into our fun weekends. So she and her fiancee sweet talked the fiancee's dad into giving us his old 18-ft canoe since he does not use it anymore. Got the canoe, 2 beautiful wooden paddles, and some life vests.

The details: There are a couple decent-sized cracks that need repaired and the hull has a number of smaller cracks that might not be leaky now but could get worse in the future. So I'm researching how to repair it all and do a full recoat. The article I'm going off of is: https://www.familyhandyman.com/automotive/how-to-repair-fiberglass/

It appears I need (and the item I have found so far):
-Resin
TotalBoat Gelcoat (White, Quart with Wax) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00Q53C3NS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DONKDb0754A9Z

-Chop filler
Cabosil Filler, FUMED Silica White Powder thickener, 1 Gallon for epoxy Resin, Paint, Thickening Filler, Hydrophobic, Fishing Fly Floatant, Polyester Resin, Fiberglass Resin https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PXXQ4N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VQNKDbVPMJBNX

-Resin Thinner
Hi Bond Styrene Qt 701930 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002IV6LDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3ONKDbAVBRDW4

-Pigment (optional but why not)
Light Blue Pigment for Epoxy Resin, Gelcoat, Paint, Latex - 4 oz https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0746MSGMR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uQNKDbN56RMSZ

-Disposable Sprayer
Preval 0227 227 Sprayer System, 11"x5.25"x4.25", Multicolored https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NXNE6CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hONKDb6BGQ8BK

Anyone have any thoughts on the product choices? Any recommendations for better products or suggestions?

>A paint sprayer requires about 10cfm.

Really? I'm assuming you arent aware of low cfm sprayers that do just fine for woodwork.

>These guns operate nicely on 3 to 4 cfm at 30psi and they works great with my 3 gal shop compressor, even on larger furniture. I've been spraying two coats of General Finishes Milk Paint followed by wipe on Glaze with two or three coats of Water Based Poly (General Finishes). The 1.7mm tip provides a well atomized, easy to control coat with these products. I had one older can of paint that required a little thinning but otherwise I've sprayed right out of the can. These are very nice finishes and readily available.

https://www.amazon.com/Ampro-A6034-Pressure-Spray-3-Piece/dp/B0019MSJ06

It's kinda strange too how people on YouTube seem to manage far more than just "a few seconds" on low CFM guns using 6 gallon $100 air compressors.

• keep your car tires properly inflated
  
• use a wand to blow out your computer
  
• use a wand to clean out the filters from your vacuum cleaners
  
• get a simple spray kit and use it to apply paint, or other finishes rather than buying cans of spray paint, etc.
  
• air nailers are great if you are doing any sort of wood working, or interior trim installation.
  
  

https://www.amazon.com/Vaper-19419-Spray-Non-Aerosol-Sprayer/dp/B0035FH906/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523903457&sr=8-1&keywords=brake+cleaner+can we started using something like this at a shop I worked at for our press wash; it worked great.

> Also if anyone has tips on how to make an alcohol based dye more consistent overall I'd love to hear them.

I've primarily used Fiebing's oil-based die, but with that I've found using a Preval sprayer has given fantastic even colour without splotches or visible gradients.

http://www.bombingscience.com/graffiti-shop.htm

I had ordered a grab bag of tips from them awhile back on a kick to try my hand at painting with spray cans. When I went to dip I just found one that fit and sprayed fat.

Handle: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002EQEE82/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2BEIJEESJKGKN&coliid=ILZ4R4YQQXXPM

Nope nope nope nope, polyshades is terrible, and minwax overall is pretty shitty and overpriced. You can get something like this and mix it into waterborne poly or mix a regular stain into oil based poly, then spray it on with something like this.

My personal friendly letter to your husband:

https://www.amazon.com/Premier-Paint-Roller-69730-Plastic/dp/B000KKKXCU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487637049&sr=8-2&keywords=drop+cloth

https://www.amazon.com/HomeRight-C800766-Finish-Fine-Sprayer/dp/B003VKFDEO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487637070&sr=8-1&keywords=paint+sprayer

https://www.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Use-1-41-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B00004Z4DI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487637095&sr=8-1&keywords=painter%27s+tapehttps://www.amazon.com/3M-8511PB1-Particulate-Respirator-10-Pack/dp/B0002YKBV2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1487637121&sr=8-5&keywords=painter%27s+mask

https://www.amazon.com/Presa-Premium-Paint-Brushes-Piece/dp/B011ARI5IU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487637193&sr=1-1&keywords=paintbrushes

https://www.amazon.com/285143-Rust-Oleum-Ultra-Interior-Chalked/dp/B010FEBFOA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487637303&sr=8-1&keywords=interior+paint

Or, you know. YELLOW PAGES for actual painters where she IS.

Edit:formatting.

No. It would just spatter little droplets on the wood and make a mess. A spray bottle doesn't atomize the finish. A spray gun does if the pressure is high enough. A spray gun shouldn't be a pain... can your compressor handle the CFM requirements of the gun? Check out turbine HVLP systems. It is the same gravity fed spray gun you would use with the compressor, but with a turbine to continually make air instead. It will set you back some $$$, but they are great. You don't need a compressor. Those airless sprayers are really more for thick house paint, since they don't atomize the finish. Atomizing the finish is a must for getting it to flow out nicely and not splatter and orangepeel.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PGQI48/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy that. I have one and it's awesome. Use that with lacquer from Sherwin Williams. It was a total game changer for me. I may never brush on a finish again.

I have found that getting a spray can trigger makes a huge difference for me. It changes the angle at which I hold the can to something more natural for me and the trigger makes pressing the spray button smoother and more consistent.

I recently bought and used this to build some cabinets for my utility room. It worked pretty well once I figured out the settings/paint consistency.

Ultimately, you are buying a $100 paint gun, more likely than not it will not work perfectly. I will say I was pleased with my purchase though.

Thank you much for this advice. I am reading him all these comments. I hadn't known about skin injection. That doesn't not sound good.

Hey, would skin injection be a problem with a sprayer like this? This isn't a high pressure sprayer right?

https://www.amazon.com/HomeRight-C800971-Painter-Painting-Projects/dp/B071X9FZ7R/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3LA8KMD06TAVN&keywords=homeright+super+finish+max+paint+sprayer&qid=1567987497&s=instant-video&sprefix=homeright+super+finish+max%2Cinstant-video%2C177&sr=8-1

I have this one and it has not only been easy to use, but has payed for itself in labor, and time savings after just a couple uses. I highly recommend it.
http://www.amazon.com/Graco-Magnum-262800-Airless-Sprayer/dp/B0026SR0FW/ref=lp_497500_1_8/191-8779222-2848144?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1410049850&sr=1-8

We've done a bunch of furniture with latex paint with this guy. I think I also add some Floetrol the paint to help it go on smoothly. And you need an air compressor.

https://smile.amazon.com/Critter-Spray-Products-22032-Siphon/dp/B00006FRPJ/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0&ie=UTF8

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Flood-Floetrol-Latex-Paint-Conditioner/21987608?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1194&adid=22222222227016818525&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=51806713511&wl4=pla-83209389911&wl5=9003439&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112550058&wl11=online&wl12=21987608&wl13=&veh=sem

If you can't get an airbrush anytime soon, something like this can improve your use of a spray can.

Instead of PB Blaster, try ATF mixed with acetone. I used that while doing mine and it made the work much easier than PB Blaster did.

I just pour the mix in [This] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035FH906/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and shake before I spray. It really helps with really tight and stuck on bolts.

I've got the Earlex HV5500. It's a bit on the loud side compared to more expensive setups, but it works well. Completely unscientific measurement -- it's not as loud as my shop vac, but it's not quiet.

I primed it first did two coats and sanded in between coats then did two coats of paint. I used a spray gun. HomeRight C800971.A Super Finish... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X9FZ7R?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

We used to order it in the 55 gallon drums at my old shop.

Pump some in to a SureShot container, pressurize it with the air chuck and you're good to go!

https://www.amazon.com/Vaper-19419-Spray-Non-Aerosol-Sprayer/dp/B0035FH906/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522672918&sr=8-1&keywords=sureshot

I was curious too, I think it might be this one: http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0518080-Control-Spray-Sprayer/dp/B003PGQI48

Yeah, powdercoating equipment costs a fortune

No glossifer, just 6 cans of color. One can per wheel, and 2 for mudflaps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E975LQ8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Though I did purchase the spray gun, and I highly recommend that. It worked amazingly well!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002EQEE82?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I've used Critter sprayers for over a decade. Hard to beat those things for reliability and ease of use.

That makes sense. I have the one in the Wiki!

https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0518080-Control-Spray-Sprayer/dp/B003PGQI48

Yup, OP needs one of these and one of these.

So I'm not even in the same neighborhood. Probably just cheaper to buy this

$5.24

https://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82

I was looking at this one. any thoughts?

http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0518080-Control-Spray-Sprayer/dp/B003PGQI48/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421887062&sr=1-1&keywords=airless+paint+sprayer&pebp=1421887075490&peasin=B003PGQI48

Hi guys,

I want to do some painting. Lots of painting.

In my house:

• most of the ceilings
  
  
• the living room
  
  
• kitchen
  
  
• both bathrooms
  
  
• two bedrooms
  
  
• a long hallway
  
  
• a few interior doors
  
  
• rear den/man-cave
  
  Outside:
  
  
• a short stucco wall that separates my neighbors' property and my own.
  
  I want to use a paint sprayer and hopefully use Behr Ultra Premium Plus (undiluted) where at all possible. My choices are the following sprayers:
  
  
• Wagner 0529010 Flexio 590 Indoor/Outdoor Hand-held Sprayer Kit
  
  
• Wagner 0518080 Control Spray Max HVLP Sprayer
  
  
• Wagner 0529029 Flexio 990 Direct Feed Sprayer
  
  
• Wagner 0529021 Flexio 890 HVLP Paint Sprayer Station
  
  
• Wagner 0529017 PaintReady Station Hvlp Paint Sprayer 0529017 PaintReady Station Hvlp Paint Sprayer
  
  Paint for ceiling(s):
  
  
• KILZ Color-Change Stainblocking Interior Ceiling Paint, White, 1-gallon
  
  Which should I get, given the scope of the work? I may choose to roll the ceilings (I hate rolling and I suck at it), but I want to spray everything else.

Why not get something like this and then use mason jars?

Everything is stored in glass and seals, plus you can use it to spray.

Pretty standard tools if you do a lot of painting. I bought one of these guys when I had to repaint a couple house interiors. There's more work in the setup (taping off, preventing overspray), but man...once you get going it's damn fast.

She's outside, not worried about overspray, and can go really quick.

HomeRight Finish Max C800766, C900076 Paint Sprayer Power Painter, Home Paint Sprayer Tool for Spray Painting, HVLP Spray Gun for Painting Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VKFDEO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Fy0ZBbNSZTMXA

One day I'll bite the bullet and upgrade! Right now I'm using this little guy: https://www.amazon.com/Critter-Spray-Products-22032-Siphon/dp/B00006FRPJ

Which works decent enough but adjusting the pressure takes some patience.

Tip - you can write it as [item](URL) and it will come out like this - Cheap piece of crap. No more ugly URLs to look at.

> Most importantly you should invest in a spray handle because your hand is going to get tired without one and you risk bad coats.

Can't recommend this highly enough. Just dipped my rims this past weekend, and two days later, my finger is still completely numb from spraying all that plastidip.

Planning to redip at least one of the rims (probably two), and ordered this sprayer from Amazon for the next time (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EQEE82/), after my hands have recovered!