Reddit mentions: The best power strips

We found 972 Reddit comments discussing the best power strips. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 287 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

1. Belkin BP11223008 12-Outlet Pivot-Plug Power Strip Surge Protector w/ 8ft Cord – Ideal for Computers, Home Theatre, Appliances, Office Equipment and More (4,320 Joules)

    Features:
  • Surge Protector Multi-Outlet Power Strip: Power everything on your desk with a single compact surge-protected extension cord. This reputable power cord offers 12 AC outlets with surge protection for charging your computer, laptop, phone, camera, and more. One charging station for a clutter-free desk.
  • Compact Space-Saving Pivot Outlet: Developed with rotating outlets to allow extra room for large AC adapter and charger bricks. The cord-management system keeps cables organized. The slender design with an 8 ft/2.4-meters long heavy-duty cord makes it ideal for home offices, workstations, and game rooms.
  • Power Bar with Phone Line Protection: Featuring a 1-in-2-out RJ11 telephone or fax protection to ensure open and continuous phone line connections. It also provides a coaxial cable protection to safeguard cable box and satellite connections. The damage-resistant housing protects circuits from fire, impact, and rust.
  • Reliable Product and Service: Purchase with confidence as it is backed by a lifetime warranty and protected by 300,000 dollar Connected Equipment Warranty. Check out the full specs: 6,000 volts maximum spike voltage, 15A AC (4 stationary outlets, and 8 rotating outlets), 125V, 1875W, and 150K Hz - 100M Hz EMI/RFI Noise Filter.
  • Safeguard Your Devices and Appliances: The electric strip has a 4,320-Joule energy rating providing a reliable power extension cord to protect printers, appliances, and home theater systems. It secures your electronic devices from overload, short circuit, power spikes, lightning strikes, or fluctuations.
Belkin BP11223008 12-Outlet Pivot-Plug Power Strip Surge Protector w/ 8ft Cord – Ideal for Computers, Home Theatre, Appliances, Office Equipment and More (4,320 Joules)
Specs:
ColorGray
Height11.4 inches
Length3.974 inches
Number of items1
Release dateAugust 2018
Size12-Outlet
Weight2.45 Pounds
Width1.1 inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

2. Belkin 3-Outlet USB Surge Protector w/Rotating Plug– Ideal for Mobile Devices, Personal Electronics, Small Appliances and More (1 Amp, 918 Joules)

    Features:
  • Power Strip with High-Speed USB Ports: Power everything on your desk with a single compact surge-protected extension outlet. This reputable mini power strip has 3 AC outlets with surge protector and 2 USB ports (1A) for your laptop, phone, camera, and more. One charging station for a clutter-free desk.
  • Portable Travel Charging Station: The small and wall-mountable power charger bar provides extra outlets without the extra cords. It offers convenient single-source charging for your smartphones, tablets, and more while on-the-go. With a damage-resistant housing for long-term durability perfect to use in workstations.
  • Compact, Heavy Duty, and Space-Saving: Designed to consume minimal space, it features a 360-degree rotating AC plug for easy plugging in any wall socket. The widely spaced outlets give ample area to fit big plugs without blockages. To enable the plug's swivel function, simply push the button under it.
  • Secure Safety Surge Protection: The electric strip has a 918-Joule energy rating providing a reliable extended outlet to protect expensive computers, consoles, appliances, home theaters, and more. It safeguards your electronic devices from overload, short circuit, power spikes, lightning strikes, or fluctuations.
  • Reliable Product and Service: Each purchase is worry-free as it is backed by a limited lifetime warranty and protected by dollar75,000 Connected Equipment Warranty. Check out the full specs: 36,000A maximum spike amperage, 1A dual USB ports, and 3-Prong swivel plug. Shop with confidence and safeguard your devices.
Belkin 3-Outlet USB Surge Protector w/Rotating Plug– Ideal for Mobile Devices, Personal Electronics, Small Appliances and More (1 Amp, 918 Joules)
Specs:
ColorSilver
Height2.25 Inches
Length7.25 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateNovember 2020
Size1 Amp
Weight0.58 Pounds
Width5.1 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

4. Tripp Lite 7 Outlet (6 Individually Controlled) Surge Protector Power Strip, 6ft Cord, Lifetime Limited Warranty & Dollar 25K Insurance (TLP76MSG)

    Features:
  • Protect any electronic device from power surges & spikes: Surge protector with two outlets protects your pc, personal computer, laptop, printer, scanner, router, phone, fax, modem, television, lamp or any other home/office electronics from dangerous power surges, spikes & line noise
  • Eco surge protection with individual outlet switches: This energy saving surge suppressor includes 7 total outlets; Six 5 15R outlets that have individual on/off switches to cut power to devices not being used, saving you energy and money and one 5 15R outlet that stays powered on 24/7 for all essential devices, such as a DVR or a router
  • Safety first high joule-rating conforms to UL 1449 safety standards: Automatic shutoff cuts power to all outlets when the protection circuit has been compromised. Diagnostic LEDS confirm surge protection status and "always on" connection at a glance 1080 joules mean maximum protection for your equipment; Conforms to current UL 1449 3rd edition safety standards
  • Convenient options for placement in any environment: 6 feet AC power cord with NEMA 5 15P plug provides to ability to reach distant outlets Keyhole slots on bottom panel provides convenient wall or desk mounting options
Tripp Lite 7 Outlet (6 Individually Controlled) Surge Protector Power Strip, 6ft Cord, Lifetime Limited Warranty & Dollar 25K Insurance (TLP76MSG)
Specs:
ColorGray
Height17.2 Inches
Length2 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateAugust 2018
SizeValue not found
Weight1.76 Pounds
Width4.24 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

9. Tripp Lite 10 Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip, 8ft Cord, Tel/DSL Protection, RJ11, & Dollar 150,000 Insurance (TLP1008TEL)

    Features:
  • Protect any electronic device from power surges & spikes: Surge protector with two outlets protects your pc, personal computer, laptop, printer, scanner, router, phone, fax, modem, television, lamp or any other home/office electronics from dangerous power surges, spikes & line noise
  • Powerful AC surge suppression with TEL/DSL protection: This surge suppressor features ten NEMA 5 15R outlets, four of which can accommodate transformer plugs; In addition, one set of built in RJ11 jacks allow connection of telephone/fax/modem equipment, which is also protected from surges
  • Safety first high joule rating conforms to UL 1449 safety standards: Automatic shutoff cuts power to outlets when the protection circuit has been compromised; Diagnostic LEDs confirm grounding and protection status at a glance; 2395 joules mean maximum protection for your equipment; Conforms to current UL 1449 3rd edition safety standards
  • Convenient options for placement in any environment: 8 feet AC power cord provides to ability to reach distant outlets, while the right angle NEMA 5 15p plug allows furniture to be pushed flat against the wall; Keyhole slots on bottom panel provides convenient wall or desk mounting options
Tripp Lite 10 Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip, 8ft Cord, Tel/DSL Protection, RJ11, & Dollar 150,000 Insurance (TLP1008TEL)
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height12 Inches
Length5.25 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateAugust 2018
Size10 Outlet
Weight1.4 Pounds
Width2 Inches
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15. Tripp Lite Isobar 10 Outlet Audio/Video Surge Protector Tel/Modem/Coax/Network 8ft Cord Right Angle Plug, & $500,000 Insurance (HT10DBS)

    Features:
  • PROTECT ANY ELECTRONIC DEVICE FROM POWER SURGES & SPIKES: Surge Protector with ten outlets and coaxial/tel/modem/Ethernet protection is ideal for your entire home/business theater installations Protect high-definition TVs, satellite and A/V receivers, DVD/CD players and more, from dangerous power surges, spikes & line noise
  • PREMIUM SURGE PROTECTION WITH BUILT-IN MODEM/COAX/ETHERNET PROTECTION: This surge suppressor offers complete AC protection with ten total NEMA 5-15R outlets, which are arranged in two exclusive isolated filter banks that prevent equipment connected to one bank from interfering with equipment connected to another In addition, three-line 22 GHz gold coaxial protection, one-line phone/modem protection and one-line high-speed Ethernet protection for safeguarding your entire home theater
  • SAFETY FIRST HIGH JOULE-RATING - CONFORMS TO UL 1449 SAFETY STANDARDS: An integrated 12A circuit breaker protects all outlets and shuts down connected equipment in the event of an overload Diagnostic LEDS confirm when you are grounded and protected at a glance 3840 joules mean maximum protection for your equipment Conforms to current UL 1449 3rd Edition safety standards
  • COLOR-CODED LABELS & CONVENIENT RIGHT ANGLE PLUG: This black surge suppressor provides ten total outlets, and color-coded labels above outlets to help identify connections at a glance The extra-long 8-foot AC power cord acts like an extension cord to give you the flexibility to reach distant outlets The right-angle NEMA 5-15P flat plug allows furniture to be moved flush against the wall Keyhole slots on bottom panel allows for convenient wall mounting
  • LIFETIME WARRANTY, $500,000 INSURANCE: Lifetime Limited Warranty and $500,000 Ultimate Lifetime Insurance covers any connected equipment damaged by a power surge
Tripp Lite Isobar 10 Outlet Audio/Video Surge Protector Tel/Modem/Coax/Network 8ft Cord Right Angle Plug, & $500,000 Insurance (HT10DBS)
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height14.25194 Inches
Length2.24409 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateAugust 2019
Size10 Outlet
Weight3.527396192 Pounds
Width0.7874 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on power strips

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where power strips are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 25
Number of comments: 5
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 8
Number of comments: 7
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 8
Number of comments: 5
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 7
Number of comments: 7
Relevant subreddits: 6
Total score: 6
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 4
Total score: 6
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 5
Number of comments: 6
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 5
Number of comments: 5
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 5
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 5
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 2

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Top Reddit comments about Power Strips:

u/d3vourm3nt · 2 pointsr/metalmusicians

Hey man....I'll give you a breakdown of everything I own to make music. But you have to be aware, that there is a HUGE learning curve to home recording...and until you get proficient with your DAW and learning about all sorts of settings and how to set up your audio and workflow and what cable gets plugged into where and yadda yadda, you will find that there are days where it can get aggravating. And then once you finally get the hang of it, and you can record something with somewhat ease, you will find that it sounds like garbage, and then you realize you gotta learn all about mixing, and the struggles that comes with.

So first and foremost, just make sure you are aware that even if you had all the money in the world, it's going to take a good chunk of time before you feel comfortable and etc.

BUT,

here is a list of everything that should help you get started.



I assume you're a guitarist yeah?

First off, just buy the full version of Reaper. It's $60. It's worth it.
Also, for drums, I use Steven Slate Drums...The full kit is worth it..but if you want just the $40 version, that will work also.

For an audio interface, the best quality/bang for your buck would probably be something from Focusrite

And then you will need a set of monitors as well....again, the best quality/bang for your buck IMO is a set of these

And then of course you're going to need things like cables, etc.

XLR cables for mics,

balanced cables for connecting things like your interface to your monitors, etc,

get some instrument cables as well if you don't already have some,

A good surge protector as well, can't recommend this one enough, it has rotating sockets so you can fit everything on it.



From then, its just a matter of how much money you want to spend, and what all you want to do.

How do you plan to get your guitar tone. Are you going to mic a cab? If so, look into something like an SM57. If you wanna do it the cheap/free way, be warned you will be dealing with a latency issue. USB interfaces have latency, so monitoring your tone can cause some issues sometimes. You plug in your guitar raw straight into the interface, and throw on some plugins on the track that give you your tone. If you want to hear just a raw, clean guitar, there won't be any latency. But if you want to record while hearing your distortion, the computer has to take your clean signal, process it through the plugins, and then back out to the monitors, so there will be a split second of latency if you don't have things set up correctly and if your pc specs arent up to par..and even so, you never can truly get to 0 latency without spending some SERIOUS money.

If you have some extra money, I would highly recommending getting something like this eleven rack...I personally use this. You can bypass the latency issue by choosing what you monitor on the interface...do you want to monitor what is coming from the input (the eleven rack) or the playback (the computer) or a blend of both. So essentially i can just listen to my guitar live as I'm recording straight from the Eleven Rack, but i'm not acutally 'monitoring' it in Reaper. By doing so, my guitar doesn't have to travel through the computer and back out, thus no latency. You can really get some great tones out of this thing also...I like to call it the 'Poor Man's AxeFX'. Here's an example of something i'm working on...both using the eleven rack and the steven slate drums, so you can get a sense of the quality of the drums and guitar tone. I have done some slight eq'ing and stuff, but nothing dramatic.

Of course you don't need something like that for guitar, there are plenty of plug ins that are free that can help you with tone.

And lastly, as far as plug ins go, if you dont wanna mic a cab, or use something like an eleven rack, just search on youtube "free plugins for metal guitar" or "free metal guitar plugins" or whatever, and just watch. Youtube is your friend when wanting to learn about how to use reaper and finding plugins. I know for a fact there are full playlists out there to learn how to use reaper properly, from start to finish. So consider looking for those.

For other basic plug ins like EQ, Compression, Noise Gate, etc, I wouldn't worry about those. Reaper comes with like 13 or so of it's own plugins. They honestly are some great plug ins as well, and are all you really need.

Here's a picture of my set up, with all the stuff I suggested in this post.


Hope that helps.

u/sunchops · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I recommend making sure you have several items:

  • Hamper (foldable or collapsible is best for college students.)
  • Laundry bag (Just in case you don't want to carry your hamper to your laundry facility, or your hamper isn't carry friendly.)
  • Desk lamp (any kind should be fine, so that way if your room mate is sleeping you don't have to have the entire room lit up)
  • Power strips (you never know when you're going to need to plug something in, and you might run out of wall plugs)
  • Change jar (spare change is always useful especially when ordering food, so you can give exact change. Don't forget to tip! You can make one of these yourself for basically free minus the cost of a bottle)
  • Desk organizer (To keep your class syllabi in, as well as any returned papers. It's very easy to lose all of that stuff, and you never know if you might need it again during the semester.)
  • Flip flops/shower shoes (keep them cheap because they're only for the bathroom, chances are that bathroom will be shared by you and several others, and most likely won't be the cleanest place)
  • Healthy (ish) snack foods (whatever foods appeal to you really, but that's a start for some ideas, trust me healthy food is good, you don't want that freshman 15 to catch up to you too quick now!)
  • Alarm clock (or you can use your phone which is what I ended up doing last year, but make sure it doesn't die!)
  • Headphones (so you don't annoy your roommate with your choice of tv/music/movies/etc.) Here's three more headphones for variety, all of which are great for the price range. Klipsch, Vsonic, Sony(these Sony MDR-V6 go on sale every so often, they were literally just on sale for $54 and are absolutely fantastic for the price range)

    That's basically everything I either wish I had brought, or found very useful. Oh yeah, don't forget your cell phone, cell phone charger, laptop/desktop and appropriate cables. Also don't forget to do your laundry somewhat regularly, and that includes your sheets!

    Would you like a falafel with that?
u/RandomHero492 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I'm basically at the same point as you are. I got my google mini for free after buying a nest protect. Since then i've been building up.

I bought a second Google Mini which is cool because you can broadcast messages from one to the other, or group them to play the same songs are alarms in different parts of the house.

I like using these two smart plugs:

Tonbux Wifi Smart Power Strip

and

Tonbux Smart Plug

These two smart plugs use the Smart Life app, which is really cool. The smart plugs let you see how much energy is being consumed (kWh), allow for scheduling, and grouping so you can turn multiple outlets on and off at the same time. You can also set up Scenes to to trigger actions when you leave the house or get back.

I use IFTTT and the app Life360 to make it so all of my lights and electronics shut off when the last person in my house leaves and to turn back on when the first person in my family returns home. Honestly, it's pretty freekin awesome.

Lastly, I am a pretty big fan of the Nest products. I only have 1 Nest Protect right now, but plan to get more Nest products when I move to a more permanent location. It's true that their products are expensive, but when it comes to the smoke and carbon monoxide sensors on the protect, the nightly promise, the ability to run diagnostics on my phone to make sure it's functioning properly, and to silence the alarm from my phone when i burn toast, it makes sense to me to invest in equipment designed to save your life.

Good luck friend! The future is now!

u/food_bag · 69 pointsr/circlebroke

We really have been outjerked by Reddit. For all the XBONE jokes and Snowden this, Obama that, atheism memes the other, they are now jerking about how a baby born dangerously premature is neither a hero nor a heroine. Yet when they throw some change to someone to buy a Mountain Dew while rocking some scruff, they are the world's greatest hero.

Fuck it, I'm going on a rant.

Search 'Hero' in Reddit, sort by Top. #3 result: A Redditor brings a power strip {extension cable} with him to the airport, calls himself a HERO for providing others with the facility to charge their mobile phones.

pic

What's that you say, this self-aggrandising wannabe was downvoted to hell and back for misusing the word, and every comment called him out in Reddit's characteristic snarky and pedantic manner?

>You sir, are a great humanitarian.

Not in the top comment he's not.

Nor in the next 5 top comments, then we hit this:

>You could be a capitalist and charge money for the use of the outlets.

And our hero's response:

>> I was thinking the same thing. I figured I could get at least $5/outlet. And maybe $20 for my chair that was within cord's reach.

>>I could probably have got $30-$40 for the strip when I left and let the next person charge people to use it. My concern would be that i will be flying through the airport next week, and I might see my power strip still being used in one unbroken chain since I left it, only now it would $20/outlet and I would really need a charge.

Our hero would price gouge people at the airport. Oh teh downvotes. lol jk, [+204, -26], they love him and his gouging.

And I promise, the praise continues.

>I, too, travel with a power strip and am thus hailed.

Now others want to be praised for their heroism too!

Ctrl+F 'Hero': let's find those comments quoting the dictionary definition of 'hero', and how this guy doesn't qualify.

>Ok so we call them power boards in Australia. I was imagining you striding through an airport ripping your clothes off. I couldn't imagine why. EDIT: I could understand the hero part though.

Stripping off your clothes in the airport = hero. Premature baby successfully fighting for her life = fuck you.

>Be a real hero and get this one...

The size of the power strip determines the size of the hero.

>Most of that is just USB cables plugged in. If you really want to be the hero at the airport, bring a multi-port USB charger too.

Multi-port charger = heroic. Just more of the same. No-one calls him out.

This is just... I'm just baffled by this. She was a little baby girl at death's door, and the pedantry over the word 'hero' is everywhere, and upvoted to the top. He let people charge their fucking iPhones so they could play Angry Birds on the plane for slightly longer, and everyone agrees he's a hero.

Now we move into /r/theoryofreddit territory: why? Here's my theory: these kids can't ever be a premature baby girl, so they don't want that to be associated with heroism. They can, however, bring an extension cable to the airport, so they want that to be the mark of a hero.

I'll stop here because the only thing left to write is how Redditors are the lowest form of - you know what, don't start me. </rant>

u/itguy1991 · 6 pointsr/homelab

Okay, I've read through the other comments and feel I still have something to contribute as I've just set this up for my parents and plan to run it at my place some time in the future.

  • PoE Switch - If you want to use a PoE switch, you have to get the PRO APs, the LITE and LR only support passive PoE. I was lucky enough to have inherited a Cisco SG300-10 802.3at PoE+ Switch from my former employer when they shut down. It's very convenient to use, but not a necessity. The PoE Injectors that come with APs have a nice mounting plate so that you can attach them to the wall/shelf/what-have-you. If you're dead-set on using PoE, Netgear has some decent, inexpensive offerings. 8-port PoE without VLANs $80, 8-port PoE with VLANs $100. If you're running out of outlets, and are on a budget, I would suggest buying a bigger power strip (Belkin makes a nice one I've used in a lot of applications) (or, if you're moving to rack mount, a PDU plugged into a UPS)



  • Patch Panel - For flexibility, what you'll want to look for is a keystone panel and then populate it with your own jacks as needed. (If you want to throw in Coax you can, and if you want/need a phone jack in there, just use another CAT5E)

  • Rack - Based on what you said, I think you are looking for something like this? You could also look at making a lack rack, if you're into DIY.

  • Additional thoughts - If you are sharing the internet connection with your tenants in the basement, you may want to look at using a "proper" firewall that can VLAN them onto their own subnet, and keep them out of your internal network (for security reasons). When I set up my parent's network, I put all of the "Internet of Things" devices (thermostat, sprinkler controller, solar monitor, etc) on their own subnet and VLAN because they are something that I have very little control of, and I see as being a big network risk. Just my $0.02

    Let me know if any of this didn't make sense to you.

    Cheers!

    Edit: additions in bold above
u/Thatisdifficult · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Here you go.

I made some very large improvements for slightly more.

    • -
      Breakdown:

      You seem like the kind of person who rarely upgrades, someone who favors doing it long-term (4+ years) rather than short-term (1 to 3 years). If it's possible, I suggest getting the R7 3700X; it's got a LOT better single-core and multi-core performance than the R7 2700X, and may be more what you're looking for. The R7 3700X's much high single-core performance also means much better performance across the entire Adobe suite. The very impressive multi-threaded performance should also be excellent at streaming for a very long time, especially since you just want to do 1080p and don't mind going down to 720p later down the line.

      I'm assuming you want the B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC because it comes with Bluetooth and Wifi. I swapped in an X570 that gives the same features. If you want to avoid the headaches that have been prevalent throughout r/buildapc as of now, get X570 instead, if you want to use Ryzen 3000 out of the box with zero issues. However, if you're patient, you can save $49 by updating the BIOS by using USB BIOS Flashback, all you need is a flash drive. But then again, you may want to use X570 if you want to use multiple very fast NVMe SSDs, but the majority of people don't need this.

      Cheaper 2x8GB 3000MHz CL16 RAM.

      Much faster 1TB NVMe SSD for $21 less.

      Upgraded the GTX 1060 6GB to the RX 5700. The RX 5700 is on the same level of performance as the RTX 2060 Super/RTX 2070 for only $350. If you chose to get the B450 mobo, you can even squeeze in the RX 5700 XT, which is on the same level of performance as the RTX 2070 Super/GTX 1080 Ti/Radeon VII/RTX 2080 for only $400. I strongly recommend waiting for aftermarket versions of the RX 5700/5700 XT to come out in mid-August for better cooling, lower temps, lower noise, and better performance.

      Swapped in the MX330-G for much better airflow, this'll make your components run much cooler.

      This 550W Gold PSU is more than enough for your PC; it also comes with a 10 year warranty.
    • -
      Q&A

      > I would also like to know any options for power surge protection. My current computer got wacked by a sudden issue with our powerline which would provide power intermittently. This has caused it to be able to operate but freeze and BSOD out of nowhere. The HD also 'creaks' so this just signals the effects of that event.
      >
      > I want to avoid that from happening again on this new build, so any suggestions would be great.

      A simple surge protector like this might be what you're looking for in case of another power surge; after several surges, it'll stop working, and you'll need to get a new one (there's usually a built-in indicator that says whether or not it can take any more surges).

      Maybe consider also getting a UPS (uninterruptable power supply) just in case a power outage happens; this'll allow you to back up important data so you don't lose it.

      Both a surge protector and a UPS would be good ways to protect your investment.

      > Another detail that may help: I also would like to stream my art. I can do that already without much an issue but there is definitively a minor lag (both in the program and the stream itself). This has caused me to just do webcam streams. Looking also for a setup that helps with video editing for future tutorials I have in mind (via Premier Pro/ After Effects).

      The R7 3700X should alleviate any lag problems with your art streams (what is your old CPU anyways?).

      I mean the R7 2700X will too, but the R7 3700X has that extra OOMPH for the long term.
u/fire_rice · 2 pointsr/travel

When I travelled several European/UK countries from Canada I charged my various devices with this power bar and 3 in 1 adapter

http://www.amazon.ca/Belkin-3-Outlet-Travel-Charger-Protector/dp/B0015DYMVO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1412369721&sr=8-5&keywords=belkin+power+bar

http://www.amazon.ca/Targus-APK01CA-World-Travel-Adapter/dp/B000ES6KPM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1412370031&sr=8-4&keywords=travel+adapter

I have been extremely happy with them, since I can simultaneously charge all my devices at once and no worries about voltage issues/power surges since it has a surge protector. The usb ports are super handy since I only need to carry the various wires, and no wall attachments. It is also useful for charging phones for new foreign friends. The only drawback is the size. It isn't very heavy, but can be clunky to carry around. I found carrying all my wires, plugs and adapters in a zippered pouch was a very convenient solution.

The adapter is really down to personal choice, but I quite like how sleek and compact the Targus is. Most people I know recommend buying the cheapest adapter, since you will always lose them, but for me having a compact universal charger was worth the money. Bonus with this adapter is if you are just going out for the day and want to only bring your adapter and phone charger along it is a much easier to throw in your bag then a huge all in one square adapter

Just my 2 cents, but I have been very happy with my set up over the last 5 months travelling.

u/BornOnFeb2nd · 2 pointsr/homelab

$100? Shit man, almost costs that much to ship a Rack, you did good.

  • If your rack doesn't have the casters, you ARE going to want them. I fiddle with the position of my rack all the damn time. I think I'm convinced that if I can get the angle juuuuuust right, it'll be quiet. ;)

  • I wouldn't consider a UPS a luxury... a super-fat one would be, but a general UPS helps prevent the "SUPRISE MOTHAFUCKER!" to your servers when the power goes out, or surges. Having a few minutes means your servers can shut down in an orderly, happy manner.

  • Re: Wifi I've got a UAP-AC Pro, and love the little UFO. It falls somewhere between Enterprise, and Pro-sumer. One of the features that is DAMN handy is that it supports both Passive, and "real" Power over Ethernet (POE), and I think it comes with a passive adapter. That means you can put your Wifi anywhere you can run a cable (and only needs the ethernet cable), and if you decided to get more POE devices (like cameras), you could just plug it right in to the POE switch and be done with it. Since I haven't mounted mine yet, it's in the corner of my basement, near the floor, effectively surrounded by steel, and it still covers my 1500sq ft ranch without issue.
  • Your rack has the square holes (I prefer 'em), that means you might need cage nuts.
  • PDU - I've got a couple of these guys on my rack, one on each side. Worked out well for me, and they come with clips that makes it easy to mount them, if you've got space. I've found actual rack-mounted PDUs to be crazy pricey.
  • If you haven't thought about it already, you will. I can't vouch for the quality myself, but I'm seriously considering picking one of these up.. For the cost of 1U of Rack space, and the price of a cheap-ass monitor, you'll have a monitor, keyboard, and be able to stash them. Sure, you think it'll take you ages to fill the rack, and putting a monitor on the computer is fine. Yup. I thought the same. I just filled my 24U rack. Getting that monitor will free up the 3U being taken up by my current monitor mount, and give me a keyboard again too! All you'd need then is a KVM.
  • If you get into Virtualization, Google "Vmware VMUG" it's a crazy deal.
u/Fatjedi007 · 5 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I just did a project at work where I made 11 ‘all in one’ computers using 3b+s. I used a vesa mount pi case mounted on the backs of monitors, and I used super strong double sided tape to mount power strips with USB on the back.

I’ve had major problems powering rPis with those USB power strip combos before, I think because they are inconsistent on how they share the power between ports. So I found one on amazon that said each USB port received 2.4 amps independently. Sure enough- they have worked great!

I’ll edit with a link when I get to my office. I think they were like $15, which is great for a 3 outlet power strip with a 5 foot cord that can also power a pi!

Edit: Here is the link to the power strips I used. Great for anyone who needs a power strip and also needs to power a pi.

u/muppet213 · 1 pointr/homelab

I'm using this one.

I'm certainly no electrician but I do try to google with just a little more effort when it's electric. It's been a while since I brought everything down so I'm really not that comfortable only assuming that I'm hovering around 7.5A. If I was constantly sitting just below 10A I don't think I would be very comfortable with it, given there are at least 4 other outlets sharing the breaker. Someone else would probably have a much better answer than me if you want more info about a safe power draw. As for the PDU I bought... I was happy but after looking at the link again I realize that mine isn't the model with a surge protector and now I'm wondering if a break and inline fuse is enough for me now :P

u/Michael4825 · 5 pointsr/buildapc

I'll go ahead and give you links to Amazon, but they're available everywhere. Tripp Lite, as /u/Knobodycares said, is a great brand. They're most known for their server racks, and UPS systems, but more importantly their PDU (power distribution units), which is what you need.

Their best (pricey but best-in-class), is the Isobar line. 4 outlet, 6 outlet, 10 outlet. They shutdown when a surge which would otherwise fry your equipment occurs, instead of simply allowing the power through.

Their other models, 7 outlet, 8 outlet, 10 outlet, are also much better than your average retail brand, and are generally cheaper. They all come with some form of insurance, as-well.

These are only a handful of options, check out the rest here.

u/3rd_in_line · 7 pointsr/solotravel

There was nothing that I left at home that I wished I had brought with me. But there were things that I brought with me that I should have left at home. You can always buy things along the way - clothes are the easiest to buy, but if you have a favourite style/brand of underwear, that would be the only thing I would recommend you take enough of.

Minimize adapters, chargers, cords as much as you can. I found that a good power board/strip (with USB) and 3m cord came in very handy, similar to this, where you can plug in your gadgets, etc from your country, but just use one adapter. And the long cords helps in hotel rooms and apartments so you can maximise your work area.

A large collapsible umbrella. Many here I am sure would find it unnecessary, but if you are travelling for work (in tropical areas especially) and need to get places dry, a good large umbrella is worth its weight in gold. You might only use it a few times a month, but it keeps you and your things dry. Don't go for a small "travel size" one, get a large, automatic-opening one like this.

It does depend on how much you will be moving around. If you are only moving every 2-3 weeks, that would be very different to if you were moving every 2-3 days. Too much luggage is just a PITA to get to from hotels/airports, no matter who is paying for it. I used a baglike this one and started with 20kg (absolutely full!), but now I have left some things behind and it is 16kg, plus I always have a small backpack for my laptop/electronics and a change of clothes for carryon. Less is best.

u/roushimsx · 3 pointsr/gamecollecting

In that case go for a switch like this. Four composite/svideo inputs, no power supply required, and balls cheap.

Component switches seem to be pretty pricey, but there's this one from Monoprice that should be able to do you good for your Wii/PS2/Xbox. If you have a learning remote thingy (like a Harmony or whatever) then you can program it and stuff (though you'll probably still have to get up to toggle whatever system you're going to be playing...so..yea...).

You're going to be running into power issues with having all of your systems hooked up, thanks to the bulky ass bricks so many of them used. Don't be the jack off that daisy chains surge protectors and extension cables, just buy something with decently spaced out outlets like this.

I also recommend labeling the cables on both ends to save on headaches later. Label which switch/port it's going to on the side that connects to the system and label the side that connects to the switch with the name of the system. You don't need to buy Kableflags, but at the very least rig something up with scotch tape and a piece of paper. It's a little redundant, but it doesn't hurt to tape a small piece of paper to the back of the TV / top of the switch / under the switch / whatever with the current, complete configuration of your whole setup, too.

u/aasteveo · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Wire up an arcade button for talkback! Always wanted a cool big red button for tb. Also having a mounted jack for 1/8" to plug in a phone to listen to would be cool. As well as phone charger off to the side not in the way.

Also, I'm a big fan of this ADJ 8 outlet switcher. You can put all of your gear on flip switches right in front of you so now you don't have to give your desk a reacharound every time you wanna turn on your speakers! haha I bought one years ago and love it, tho I'm sure there are newer models that might have a phone charger built in, you'd hafta look around.

u/neat_username · 2 pointsr/hometheater

This is the receiver that is often recommended around here. It'll future proof you for when you do upgrade but it's the top of your budget.

If you're looking for a simpler option - this one is pretty bare-bones.

The watts per channel doesn't matter nearly as much as you would think. If you're driving your old HTIB Onkyo speakers, just make sure your impedance matches and you're all set as long as you're not looking to drive them to ear-splitting levels constantly.

Without using something like a Harmony remote to turn on and off all your devices, the easiest way to power on/off your receiver is using a smart power strip. (That was just the first Amazon listing, you can poke around for more offerings if you want).

u/Bennanator · 2 pointsr/Hue

Another option would be to add an Amazon Echo/Dot to your set up. It would allow you to add and control a smart plug, and be able to control your Hue system as well (Although, the plug would still not be accessible from the Hue app). In my opinion, the best bang for your buck smart plug that works with the Echo is the Quirky Pivot Power Genius. It is a little finicky to set up, once set up though it works pretty flawlessly in my experience. We have had ours set up for about a year now and have had to reset it once that I can recall.

u/MapleStoryPSN · 1 pointr/RetroPie

If you're in the market for a new surge protector, then I'd HIGHLY recommend this for powering down your Pi if the surge protector isn't too out of the way:

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Individually-Controlled-TLP76MSG/dp/B0068LACFI/

Great quality and after you shut down, just simply flick the switch to power it off and flick it on when you want to play it again. It's also great for phone chargers and the like.

u/doc_willis · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

just go with the canakit on Amazon ($60 to $80). They typically include a GOOD power supply. ($9 for just the ps)

do NOT cheap out on the pi power supply, or SD card.


octopi can work with USB webcams, which you can often find at thrift stores or rummage sale for cheap. I am using a PS3 (4?,) webcam on mine. found several for $1 to $5

the pi-cam is nice but getting it pointed where you need it to look can be a pain.

the Arducam $12 (and up) is a cheaper alternative to the official pi cam $25? But you may also want an extended camera ribbon cable. $10


I use the smartpi case for my pi that comes with a small case for the fragile camera. ($10, or so)

Building Block Compatible SmartiPi Raspberry Pi B+,2, 3, and Pi 3 B+ case w/Camera case and GoPro Compatible Mount - Blue https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00UDP0B06

and a cheap tripod you can print or buy to point the pi at the printer.

alternative (or extra) is to use a security cam like a Wyze Camera $25, and use that to monitor the printer.

I use both the pi-cam and wyze, from different directions to keep an eye on my printer.

the wyze can also be seen from your phone easily, and has a smoke detector feature.


if you want to get fancy, I have an Alexa enabled smart outlet, I can use to remotely power on and off the printer, cameras, and lights.

with some of these smart plugs, octopi can turn them on and off, which is nice, not sure if that works with this one.

Smart Power Strip WiFi Plug TECKIN Multiple Outlet Surge Protector USB Bar Remote Control Timing Schedule Compatible with Alexa Echo
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FM3P87S/

I use the USB ports to power my pis. and each port, USB, and AC can be toggled individually

it's over kill. but handy.

----

good luck.

u/UnGermane · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

These look amazing. But they're over $20 after shipping, and you didn't mention a limit, so I'm going to assume that's way over.

This, on the other hand, was one of the first gifts anyone on this sub sent me, and it is fantastic. If someone else requests this, or if the winner happens to be an add-on item and you need a little extra something, get this, and do not feel bad about it for one minute.

u/MuanaKafi · 5 pointsr/peacecorps

Hey-O! Liberia RPCV 2010-2012. Congratulations! Liberia is a great country to serve in, and has AMAZING staff. The last time I went to do a short response service half of my luggage was coffee and food stuff. I think most of us brought a bunch of stuff we never used the first time. You can find most things in country.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-BZ103050-TVL-Surge-Protector-Charger/dp/B0015DYMVO/ref=asc_df_B0015DYMVO/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167140365824&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11117789773407407661&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025395&hvtargid=aud-467077737785:pla-308916274448&psc=1

​

I cant recommend that thing enough. I used it every time I was near electricity to power everything at once. I still use it in my house today. I also strongly encourage a kindle and try and pirate a bunch of books that you can share.

​

Computer is definitely nice to have for entertainment, but I never really used mine for work or project related things.

Linen clothes for work. Stuff that looks professional, but breathes.

Reach out if you have any other questions!

u/lampshade9909 · 1 pointr/Steam

So it's possible. It's not an out of the box thing though. There's a Pivot Power Genius that you can control with Stringify to power things from a flow, but you'd still need to effectively push the power button on your computer. Pivot Power works best for things that, once you plug the in they're on like a coffee maker.

I think what you'd really want is to use a rasberry pi that's running all the time with an HTTP listener (that maker would trigger) that would execute a WOL (wake-on-lan) command to their computer. It's typically an option in your BIOS... you send the WOL "magic packet" to the computer's MAC address. See also this resource

u/mrCloggy · 1 pointr/environment

Small wind:
Ask your dad to give a practical example on how to apply Betz's Law to your own backyard.
(And don't forget to 'innocently' ask how he is so sure the windspeed is as he claims it is).

Small solar:
PVwatts gives the kWh-numbers for your location.
'Soft costs' like permits and installation, needed for 'grid-tied', make it very expensive, you could look into a small-ish DIY 'off-the-grid' system with a battery to power only the bicycle-shed (and the freezer inside).
(You and your family do ride a bike for <5 mile trips, right?).

Energy efficiency is the biggest winner for the lowest dollar amount.
Install triple paned windows, and half a meter of insulation in every wall, ceiling and floor.
If you have mechanical ventilation, make sure it has a heat-exchanger (and CO2-sensor for lowest safe level).

Get a solar hot water panel for your shower etc, and if you have the space available, a shower drain recovery system.
For more solar fun: Build it Solar.

Electric vehicle (E-car, E-moped or E-bike), google-fu the fuel-type of power generators for your area/state. Even if it is coal, the efficiency is likely to be better than your own internal combustion engine, and the dirty exhaust fumes are not released in the middle of a bunch of people in town/campus.

Get a Kill-a-Watt, and measure all electrical appliances, in 'on', 'standby' and 'off'.
If there are vampire loads, connect them to a 'switched' power-bar.

u/Geoff_Sanderson · 1 pointr/MAME

I mounted my motherboard and components to a 1/4" piece of MDF which was then mounted on the bottom of my cab. I attached the motherboard to the 1/4" piece of MDF with nylon spacers and pan head sheet metal screws. This allowed for air to get underneath the motherboard. I didn't bother with fiber washers or anything.

Depending on how much space you have in your cab, you might need less fans than you think.

As far as speakers go, you are better off buying cheap car speakers and wiring them to an amp. This allows you more flexibility with mounting. If you do want to use the 2.1 speaker system you have, you can use a smart power strip to power everything on, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-4941-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B000P1QJXQ/

And yes ipac2 is good for 2 player setup. You can just wire up an arcade button to turn on/off your computer.

u/a_midgett · 2 pointsr/travel

Lots of good suggestions in here. A couple specifics from my trip:

  • This flashlight Tiny, rugged, and amazingly bright for just a single AA battery. Spendy, but worth it.
  • A mini surge protector to go with your travel adapter (kit). Share it in airports when there's only one wall socket.
  • An unlocked iPhone or Andriod smart phone. You'll have travel apps, wi-fi access for Tripadvisor and Wikitravel, digital guidebooks if you need them, and plenty of podcasts, music, and movies for those long bus rides. Oh yeah, it's a phone, too. Seriously, after my passport, this is the most important thing in my travel bag.
u/acconrad · 2 pointsr/howto

The worst offenders all revolve around an entertainment center. Which is why one of these bad boy surge protectors were made. Connect your TV in as the master unit, then plug in your game system, speakers, cable box, etc...

this surge protector specifically cuts power when it's off, but better, it will purposefully cut off those "phantom power" units that are joint to the master outlet. And then the green ones are for anything that needs dedicated power regardless of master being on. AND you don't need to physically unplug everything, which is awesome.

So I unplug my toaster, lamps, etc...but I just keep this surge protector for my entertainment center and boom no worries. Definitely worth the $30 bucks and my electric bill is like $20/mo, already paid itself off.

u/Onlythefinestwilldo · 16 pointsr/homelab

Now that you mention it, I'd be curious too. I'll tally it up and get back to you all.

Edit: here it is!


Thing |Price | Quantity
---|---|----
Belkin Power Strip | 30 | 1
Raspberry Pi 3 B+ | 38.30 | 2
Miuzei Raspberry Pi Cooling Case Kit | 25.99 | 2
Netgear 8 Port Gigabit Switch | 17.99 | 1
WD 2 TB External Hard Drive | 59.99 | 4
KingDian 8GB SSD | 10 | 1
Mitac PD12TI CC Mini-ITX Motherboard w/ Intel Atom D2500 CPU | 149.99 | 1
Mini-Box picoPSU-80 80w 12v PSU | 28.95 | 1
Sabrent 12v AC power supply | 10.98 | 1


Total: $616.45

I was doing pretty good until I got to the damn WD hard drives. I suspect I paid way too much for how good they are. Probably could have saved some money by making an enclosure and using real hard drives or something

u/catloving · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I'd just get a new PSU (power box) equal or better than yours. Remove old power box AND check motherboard/ports/spots for scorch marks. (If that's so, you need a new board).

Plug new power source into board, and connect your hard drive mouse and keyboard (nothing else) and boot up. While booting, watch the BIOS for issues and sit there and sniff - any smells coming from anyone? Run the computer doing some average things, surfing, playing video, sound - any smells there? Check your usb ports, all of them...Ok? Good.

Power down, and connect anyone else who hasn't connected power wise. Like CDROM or something else. Reboot, sniff, drive for a bit, see how that goes.

AND NEVER PLUG STRAIGHT INTO A WALL. The electricity in a house fluctuates wayyy too much. Your pc wants smooth predictable feed, not twitchy. Get a good power strip (I use this http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Outlet-Pivot-Surge-Protector/dp/B000JE9LD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415402649&sr=8-1&keywords=electronics+power+strip) and it helps smooth it a bit, plus has a surge protector that will save your machine.

So: new PSU (look in your case right now and tell us what you have)
Power strip http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Outlet-Pivot-Surge-Protector/dp/B000JE9LD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415402649&sr=8-1&keywords=electronics+power+strip so you don't make smoke again.

don't feel too bad, I once plugged a machine into a strip (that was over loaded) at work, booted up and POOF fried the PSU, all the magic smoke left.

u/UsePreparationH · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

Smart plug, it gives you a remote on/off switch for anything you plug it into through a phone app or google assistant/alexa. Unless you have something like a light plugged into an always on outlet and you really want to turn it off from your bed, this isn't going to be something for you.

I have the HS110 which is the same thing but it has energy monitoring which is the main reason why I got it (current power in watts and it tracks daily, weekly, and monthly usage). This is similar to a Kill-A-Watt unit but you get the extra smart switch part of it. It it huge so it covers the 2nd outlet which is a disappointment so I would recommend the HS300 surge protector which is pretty much a $70 power strip with energy monitoring and each outlet can be controlled individually.

https://smile.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Power-Strip-TP-Link/dp/B07G95FFN3

u/FitzTheBastard · 1 pointr/amazonecho

I don't, but if you're interested in a good deal, this seems like a better one.

Quirky PPVG-WH01 Pivot Power Genius, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN92MC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tICBzbGC5B007

u/OldGreyTroll · 1 pointr/woodworking

Think about getting a third sawhorse and putting it under the back of your desk. This will give extra support for the center under the monitors. Setting back will get it away from your feet.

Think about adding a multi-outlet power strip. Either on the top if you plug/unplug a lot or underneath if you have things just stay plugged in. I really like this Tripp Lite Power Strip.

Doors also work well. Solid doors are going to more stable. Hollow doors make it easier to move, set up, and take down. I have two that I use for temporary horizontal space any time I need it.

u/Pocok5 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

You mean like this one? Probably better to a buy professionally made one in the case of high energy mains wiring like this. That said, always respect the maximum current draw of both the house wiring and the power strip - or you'll have a well cooked small apartment.

u/calley479 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I'm using SmartThings and I love it. Though I couldn't tell you the differences since I don't use Wink directly.

I have several Link bulbs, so those should work. And your GoControl kit is all zwave, so it should be fine. I have several of their contact and motion sensors on mine, though I'm unsure about the siren.

I don't know about the power strip though... can't find anyone discussing it on the SmartThings forum. You might try emailing support, they should know if it's supported.

Is it this one: Quirky PPVG-WH01 Pivot Power Genius if so, let me know if you get it working. Seems to be the best price on a smart switch yet.

u/PinBot1138 · 1 pointr/SmartThings

This is the one that I have from them, which I assume has been deprecated in favor of the one that you’ve linked:

Aeotec by Aeon Labs DSC11 Smart Power Strip Z-Wave Power Sockets
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H3RL6JW/

Thankfully, someone figured it all out for SmartThings (custom device handler) and it works GREAT, with 4 of the 6 sockets controllable and monitored, so I can see if I forgot to turn the den TV off, for example.

u/thebasementtapes · 5 pointsr/sonos

Hey no worries at all, we all have to learn at some point. this is part of the enjoyment with turntables for me, the tinkering. I don't have the exact model of turntable you have but does it have something that looks like this? https://imgur.com/a/FNvhJFu The silver thing is a ground connector. you just need to get a copper wire and connect it to that and then connect the wire to a metal pipe, OR VERY CAREFULLY touch it to a screw on a power outlet. DO NOT PUT IT IN THE OUTLET just touching the screw.

Also, does the hum go away if you touch the metal ground connector with your hand. Humans are usually grounded so we can ground the Turntable if we touch a metal part on it. That is a good was to test it is a grounding issue.

Also some other things to try. Try it in a different area with a different outlet. Some outlets are not grounded. You can buy a surge protector that will tell you if the current is grounded too. https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-12-Outlet-Pivot-Plug-Protector-BP112230-08/dp/B000JE9LD4/ref=sr_1_6?crid=10011EKJFWK26&keywords=grounded+surge+protector&qid=1557767088&s=gateway&sprefix=grounded+sur%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-6

Another thing to test. Does it hum when you plug the turntable in and don't have the needle down or does it only hum if you have the needle on a record. If it hums with the needle NOT on a record it is for sure a grounding issue. If it only hums when the needle is on the record then it might be the cable or bad connectors on the turntable.

u/drewlitogot · 1 pointr/techsupport

Pop one of these in the wall

(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006B81D/ref=psdc_761520_t3_B00006BBAB)

Then, try to match the the amount of power that the computer would draw, a donor computer would be great for this, ask around and promise that the data will be wiped (use DBAN for this) the promise of assured data destruction makes businesses happy and open to giving you old equipment... Any way try to blow the fuse

u/[deleted] · 8 pointsr/hardware

In that case I think you would be satisfied with an ISOBAR8ULTRA, ground loop isolator, and a couple power squids.

Use the ground loop isolator on the audio cable to your computer. Plug the speakers directly into one of the plugs on the surge supressor. The plugs on this supressor are arranged into four filter banks. Try different devices in plug paired with the speaker one and listen for any interference. This should take care of all your issues for under a hundred dollars and I don't think you will get much better performance without spending MUCH more.

edit: If your budget can stretch a bit more you may enjoy some of the features of the Digital Loggers Web Power Switch 4 or Ethernet Power Controller III. I can attest that they are quality products although they do not have any EMI/RFI filtering (which you may not need anyway).

u/placebo92 · 1 pointr/modular

Damn I really don't understand this stuff. Also it sounds like maybe you're talking about modifying a homes circuitry(?) and I'm a renter so that's a no go.
Now I'm getting super skeptical of all these Surge Protectors though..

What about this one does it seem ok? It's got a pretty high Joules rating (high number=good right?) and a supposed $50,000 equipment warranty. That all sounds pretty spankin' to me...

u/bunnyfrog · 1 pointr/htpc

Thanks for all the replies, you all were a lot of help in deciding to move forward with this project. From brainstorming and reading replies, I had another question (and found a possible solution).

As far as work load/power consumption goes, would a HTPC running as a media server + having the ability with WMC to use a Cable Card to schedule/record be able to “sleep” when there is nothing recording, scheduled, or being used by a client to pull content, or is it always on?

For instance would WMC know to “wake up” the system when there is a scheduled recording?

Or if I'm watching a 2 hour movie on a Roku box and it ends, will the HTPC/server know that it doesn't need to work to serve? Is this where the NAS comes in? With the NAS can I record straight to it with WMC and use it as the live buffer, or would I have to install a fairly large hard drive in the HTPC with Cable Card?

From reading around, I think this would solve my Roku dilemma if the Plex app doesn't have a sleep timer. If anything I'd still use it so I wouldn't have to program two timers. - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003P2UMQ2

Thanks again guys, you all rock!

u/AlwaysSmilingBot · 1 pointr/testingground4bots

Use this link to the same product on Amazon and they'll donate some of their profit to the XXXXXX:

u/sk9592 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

This would be my suggestion of what to buy for $3000. I'm sure most people on this sub would disagree with my more budget oriented picks. I'm just putting it out there.

Feel free to explain why I'm wrong.



Item | Price
---|---
VIZIO P-Series Quantum 65” | $1,500
Pioneer SP-PK52FS Andrew Jones 5.1 | $505
Denon AVRS740H | $403
100ft Speaker Wire | $13
Surge Protector | $25
Apple TV 4K or Nvidia Shield TV | $180
HDMI Cables (2x) | $13
Total | $2,666
|
Optional |
Banana Clips | $20
VESA Mount | $35
Atmos Speakers (In Ceiling) | $75
Atmos Speakers (Stand Alone)
| $240



For 4K and HDR it is very important that your HDMI cables are capable of 18Gbps. I have never had any signal issues with Monoprice cables, and the slim form factor of these cables is ideal for cable routing and management. Two cables is the bare minimum you need to get up and running. Obviously buy the appropriate length and amount that you need.

**For the Atmos speakers you only need one of the two options. In-ceiling speakers are objectively the superior quality and cheaper option. But they are not realistic for everyone's living situation. That is why I included the stand-alone speaker option. The speakers I picked would replace your two surround speakers and act as both surround and Atmos channels.

u/GTAsian · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Ah, didn't realize that zigbee didn't integrate directly with HA. I'm using these for my outlet needs. Wifi network sees it as one device so it's light on the network. I'm able to control each plug individually but the USB outlets are all or nothing. I haven't done so yet, but the plan is to reflash them with custom firmware. From what I heard, it's pretty easy.

u/jmnugent · 1 pointr/applehelp

> "if there was some lesser-known secret I hadn't heard of or some crazy trick to fix it or something."

Nope.

Speaking as someone who's worked in the IT industry for 20+ years... the "secret" really is simple (for pretty much all electronic devices)

1.) Make sure you have good, clean, reliable power (IE = use a surge-protector or battery backup). Even a single time of plugging your power-cord into a "dirty" outlet can damage it. You may consider a small/portable surge protector such as this Belkin one.

2.) Treat your cables gently. Never pull/yank on them. Always pull using the base of the plug (never pull on the cable itself).

Also.. never fold/tightly wrap cables. Any extreme bending (especially at critical junction points, like where the cables meets the square/brick) can results in shorts or internal wire breakage.

u/RedRamen · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Is that 206 the only filter? I would definitely suggesting upgrading!

Also consider getting one of these. Definitely awesome for doing maintenance.

u/DrGonzo84 · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

Hey the power bar is made by Tripp Lite I ordered mine off amazon they make them in just about any amount of outlets you need.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlet-Cabinet-PS4816/dp/B000051174?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

Yah the Pippin is pretty cool I'm an old school apple fan but doesn't get allot of use I need to get some games for it hard to come by tho.... It does have a neat painting app tho and a few other cool apps built in.

u/sterncapital718 · 0 pointsr/electrical

You can buy adapters that can be a temporary solution till you move back to your place.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00166TT3G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420042081&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

These are 3 prong to 2 prong outlet adapters. To install them you take off the center screw on the outlet without taking off the face plate. Next plugin the adapter and a screw the small tab on them to the faceplate with the screw that was removed. If you have a good surge protector it should have an indicator light that tells you if you have a ground connection from the outlet with the adapter. Looks like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JE9LD4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1420042570&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40#immersive-view_1420042585566

If you dont feel comfortable doing this turn off the power before hand and make sure its off by using a volt meter or a small appliance.

u/keebs63 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I love this one. Amazing protection for a rather decent cost. It's got very sturdy build quality as well. $300,000 in protection if it doesn't protect whatever's on it.

u/zeug666 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Along those lines:

If an outlet isn't "working" plug in something to check. A working item, such as a lamp or a fan is a great indicator that the outlet is receiving power.

There are a variety of reasons that a particular outlet wouldn't be receiving power, so it helps to double check.

Always check the switch; power strip/surge protector, switched outlet, breaker, etc, etc - this goes with the thing about checking the power.

If the problem outlet isn't properly grounded, that may cause an issue (not an electrician).

OP could try another AC to USB adapter (commonly provided with smart phones). Pretty much any (powered) USB source should work to charge your device, which is why I carry one of these with my gadgets.

u/Kyvalmaezar · 1 pointr/homelab

Agreed, labeling them is the best way to do it, even when they're plugged in. For my wall warts, I have them attached to a power strip with these 1ft extension cords so I can actually fit more than one in a strip. All of my electronics I don't use very often (old video game systems, VCRs, old towers, etc) get plugged into one of these power strips so they don't leach power when off. Each switch has a label for the device plugged into it and each cord plugged into it is also labeled. I have all the extenders labeled as well. This way no matter where I am in the power chain, I know what's plugged into what. The only thing that isn't labeled is the powerstrips ...yet.

u/LocoMojo77 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Nice cooler. Got an H7 for my birthday last month. Love it. Dropped my cpu temp by 15'c

I plan on replacing the stock fan with a corsair LL 120 once it gets here.

As for surge protector..

I suggest the [Belkin BP112230-08 PivotPlug 12-Outlet Surge Protector] (https://www.amazon.ca/Belkin-BP112230-08-PivotPlug-12-Outlet-Protector/dp/B000JE9LD4/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1521674293&sr=8-13&keywords=belkin)

u/yaggadagga · 1 pointr/SpaceBuckets

This is the answer I figured I would get! Thanks for that advice. I should hire an electrician.

If that’s not possible in the near future, would you kind help with something else? Looking at my driver, which is a MeanWell HLG-185H-C1400B and runs two cobs at 36V (or so says the specs).

How do I take those specs and compare them to 15 amps surge protector? Like this.

Or is anything I buy on amazon not enough protection? Thanks again for your help.

u/aparmar84 · 4 pointsr/InteriorDesign

This.

But it looks like you have a lot of things to plug in, so I recommend this one. I use it at my place, and I love that it has the tilting plugs. Can fit some many more things.

u/freewaytrees · 5 pointsr/PlantedTank

There are dozens online that are nearly identical, but I just got this one:

Wifi Smart Power Strip, Tonbux Surge Protector with 4 USB Charging Ports and 4 Smart AC Plugs for Multi Outlets Power Socket Extension Cord, Voice Controlled by Amazon Echo & Google Home, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779R4879?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/aberugg · 1 pointr/networking

For the $50,000-insurance'd surge protectors it's not a consumer brand. We work in manufacturing and maintenence will only order those surge protectors. They are pricey (like 55 bucks for an 8 port I think), but they've basically been really good at what they do for decades.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Protector-Right-Angle-ISOBAR6ULTRA/dp/B0000511U7

Just figured I'd add that if you were looking for more info on why Tripp Lite seems to have a good reputation in the industry.

u/whitcwa · 1 pointr/DIY

That would work, but it needs to be done safely. A power strip with individual switches is safer.

u/panthersrule1 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Do you have any recommendations? I’m upgrading my tv to a 55” 4K. I have a surge, but don’t know if it’s good enough. How many joules do you think it should protect against? I don’t know that much about surges. Here’s what I have now:

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-12-Outlet-Pivot-Plug-Protector-BP112230-08/dp/B000JE9LD4/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JZ2QRMSZ2A011RPQ7N1Z

u/adelope · 1 pointr/vita

The Vita charger is a standard USB charger, you can buy it for like $2, but I suggest you upgrade to a better charger like this.

The problem is the USB cable which is proprietary and isn't necessary compatible with every charger, there is a small pin on the cable, so you may need to scratch it a little bit. The cable itself is not cheap either. The original cable goes for $10. You can get OEM cable for $2 example. IMO, since you are only going to use the cable for charging, don't overpay.

u/bugeats · 1 pointr/synthesizers

I've had great success with a Tripp Lite Isobar 2 along with a mega long power strip. It's essentially a 1:1 transformer for galvanic isolation, along with a fuse. Bonus $10k insurance for any gear damaged by a power surge for peace of mind.

Make sure all your gear is on the same circuit to avoid hum and noise problems. This is where the mega long power strip comes in.

u/shanew21 · 5 pointsr/Austin

Your friendly reminder to use a surge protector, and that surge protectors only last a few years (or one major surge). I like this one because it shows you when you are protected by surges with an indicator light. When the surge protection wears out, the light will shut off and you should replace it. It also comes with a $300,000 equipment warranty.

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-12-Outlet-Pivot-Plug-Protector-BP112230-08/dp/B000JE9LD4/ref=sr_1_4?s=movies-tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1467360925&sr=8-4&keywords=belkin+surge+protector

u/gearhead87 · 1 pointr/battlestations

Nice build. I'd recommend an UPS or at least a better surge protector.

u/StarfighterProx · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I own a Tripp Lite HT10DBS that I have been very happy with. It's well-rated, well-insured, and gives me plenty of peace of mind. I have my LCD TV, receiver, subwoofer, Blu-ray player, HTPC, Xbox 360, router, and modem all connected to it. Plus, the price is not back-breaking.

u/sadpony · 3 pointsr/ender5

The on/off plug just kills the power, its not initiating a system shut down or anything. I use a Octopi with a webcam to print and monitor and I have it and the printer in a smart plug. Works great for me and has saved me some pain in the past. Plus I don't like leaving it on unattended for long periods. I would definitely get an OctoPi going if you're doing things remotely though. Its got a ton of features, but makes remote control easy.

Edit: I use this https://smile.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Power-Strip-TP-Link/dp/B07G95FFN3?sa-no-redirect=1 to control 2 printers, two raspberry Pi, and some lamps. I was out of town for a week and I just had my wife remove the prints each morning, but I was able to work on it and turn on the lamp when I knew it wasnt going to bother her to check on prints (versus leaving it on always)

u/FMA5880 · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Agreed. Something like this I think is perfect: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JE9LD4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1373057937&sr=8-3&pi=SL75

u/steveosmith · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

The moral of the story: a good surge supressor should be part of every new build. I use this surge protector. It's great. I don't know that you can have any sort of problem with a surge in your ethernet cable, but this surge suppressor come with ethernet protection. It's such an important investment honestly. I'd rather blow a $30 surge suppressor than a $1,000 PC.

u/drtonmeister · 2 pointsr/electrical

https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/electrical/power-strips/surge-protectors/ul100bd-multi-outlet-power-unit-125v-15a-9-14l-5-outlets-15-cord

The above link is a 5 outlet strip with a circuit-breaker that is push-back-in to reset, but no switch.

I've worked with several supervisors who would refuse to have anything mission-critical on a power-strip that had a switch - either someone stepping on it under a desk, or someone setting something down on top of it could switch it "off" at an inopportune moment.

I've found the easiest to find are the 3 to4-ft long wiremold strips with outlets spaced every 4 to 6 inches, rack-mount strip that still have a switch but have it under a cover that requires unclipping before you can manipulate the switch, and the good old industrial supply places where you will pay 2 to 3 times what the hardware store will charge but find exactly what you desire as one of the 200 power-strip options.

u/freakingwilly · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Belkin 12 port. Six outlets down the middle for simple plugs, three on each side for bricks.

I got one on my computer, one on my entertainment center, and two more in storage because of sales. Love this thing.

u/zakabog · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Desktop is always the better choice if you don't need portability, and even then you're better off getting a cheap laptop for portability and a desktop for gaming (the price ends up being around the same.) One outlet or five outlets, if it's in a bedroom then it's probably going to be coming off one circuit breaker anyway. Maybe don't try to run the PS4/XBox/PC and air conditioner all at the same time doing intense gaming in the middle of August. Other than that you should be okay, just buy a decent surge suppressor.

u/Decyde · 0 pointsr/xboxone

Buy this.

I got mine for $25 and this thing is the best surge protector you can get for stuff behind your entertainment system.

u/DonutTread · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Use 1 timer and a power strip or do like I did and get a smart power strip so you can program each outlet for whatever you want.

Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Protector-Compatible-TECKIN-Multiple-Charging/dp/B07FM3P87S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542469367&sr=8-4&keywords=wifi+power+strip

u/jryanishere · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You need a smart power strip.

Then you plug your harmony hub into a red outlet or leave it plugged into a separate source, plug your TV into the Blue outlet, and plug all your switched loads into the green outlets.

Program a watch tv activity to TURN THE TV ON FIRST WITH A DELAY OF 5 SECONDS!, Very important!

Then allow it to turn on the rest of your equipment. It works very well.

Keep in mind, old av receivers require a standby current to keep their settings once their super capacitor or internal battery goes dead. This is rarely a user replaceable item, so once it dies, it dies, and the receiver forgets about settings every time power is pulled.

u/SchrodingersCat_ · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If the power goes out a lot where you live then I would go for the UPS. If not, just get a good surge protector. This is the one I use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000511U7 If you get hit with a surge, just call them and they will ship you a new surge protector for free. Check the reviews too, this is the best surge protector you can buy IMHO.

u/BrainlessBox · 1 pointr/INEEEEDIT

I like this Belkin power strip on Amazon much more than the concept. It swivels and the cord is 8 feet long! It's awesome, I have four at my house.

u/mithikx · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Doesn't really seem like a deal, I bought a very similar one (99% sure it's a generic rebrand item) but with 3x 2.4A USB-A ports for $14.99.

It's good if you need a few outlets and some USB ports but that's really about it. It's not particular good bang for your buck IMO, the one I got I replaced with an APC 12-outlet surge protector with 2 USB charging ports.

The APC 12-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip with USB Charging Ports, 2160 Joules, SurgeArrest Home/Office (PH12U2), right now it's going for $23.68 with a $5 clippable coupon on Amazon which brings the total to $20.69 with free Prime shipping and CA sales tax. I paid $35 for mine at my local computer store :/

u/adrianmonk · 2 pointsr/audio

> Furman manufacture a sequencer that does exactly this, with three separate timed events in sequence

Another option is a "smart" power strip. They have a current sensor on one outlet and then turn some other outlets on/off. When you switch off the "master" device, a few seconds later it will cut power to the other devices. Some example models:

  • Tripp Lite AV88SATG
  • APC P8GT
  • Bits Limited SCG-3MVR Smart Strip

    I have an older APC model than the above, but they look to be very similar. It has a current sensitivity adjustment for the master outlet, which is nice, although I'd also like some control over the timing.

    This approach only gives you the proper power-on sequence, obviously, as it's always reacting to the "master" device, so it can't turn off the audio equipment until after it detects you've turned off the computer.
u/Bogus_83 · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

Makes sense. I used the smart plugs for nightlights and such throughout the house.

I think this is the power strip. https://www.amazon.com/TECKIN-Multiple-Protector-Bar,Remote-Compatible/dp/B07FM3P87S/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=smart+power+strip&qid=1556247426&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I have my lights, circulation pump, and air pump on a timer. Works great.

u/mattsilv · 1 pointr/videos

I work in restaurant IT, and I can assure you that the Belkin Pivot-Plug is, above and beyond, the best surge protector.

u/ender32708 · 1 pointr/ender3

Yep I live my WiFi strip,

Smart Power Strip WiFi Power Bar 5ft  Extension Cord Compatible with Alexa,Echo,Google Home and IFTTT, TECKIN Surge Protector with 4 USB Charging Ports and Smart AC Plugs for Multi Outlets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FM3P87S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1Fy3CbBJMYKYR

u/MahDarling · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Definitely purchase the seeds on your wish list!

I want the travel charger for both USB ports and plugs! that's on my "1. Practical" list.

twinsies ! (My autocorrect keeps wanting to say twin dies D:)

u/Egleu · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Triplite makes excellent surge protectors and aren't terribly expensive. I bought 3 of these and they work well.

u/Thomcat316 · 1 pointr/electricians

Wire your charging stand so the switch is in the stand, then you'll have the one cord from the stand to the outlet and you don't have to try to find the outlet made of unobtanium.

Or, if you want, you can hide this for best aesthetics, and use the master switch or the individual switches as you wish.

Or try this device or this sort of switch at the wall.

u/mal5305 · 5 pointsr/EDC

New to /r/EDC, here's my start:

  1. Notebook, puzzles, & book I'm currently reading (A Short History of Nearly Everything)

  2. Gloves

  3. Beanie

  4. Nalgene

  5. Firefox-branded Ogio backpack

  6. Meds

  7. mini-USB cable

  8. Gerber multi-tool + Leatherman Freestyle CX

  9. Kobalt flashlight

  10. Belkin mini-surge + USB

  11. Klipsch Image S4 headphones

  12. Case for business cards

  13. Spare earbuds

  14. Contacts + glasses

  15. Zune HD (yes, a Zune)

  16. Spare 8GB flash drive

  17. Nike sunglasses

    Items 18-24 are always in my pockets (+/- a few extras occassionally)

  18. Chapstick

  19. Keys

  20. Gerber pocketknife

  21. Gum (always always always)

  22. 8GB flash drive

  23. Money clip (credit/debit cards, license, a few business cards)

  24. Fob for office

  25. (Not pictured) HTC Inspire 4G

    Very open to suggestions/critiques. I really enjoy seeing all the different EDC collections, from minimalist to zombie apocalypse-ready.
    I'm thinking about putting together a car/bug-out bag, but that'll come later.

    EDIT: formatting
u/ThisAccountIsFishy · 2 pointsr/ReefTank

While there are screw in bulbs, they are meant for nano tanks mostly. With that budget have you considered T5 and cheap LED lights? I’d recommend the Current USA with four of these T5 HO fixtures

With these lights you’ll for sure grow any coral you want easily. You can put the T5 on these wifi controlled power strips so you can set them on timers and the LED has built in programming.

u/Drathus · 1 pointr/homelab

For what kind of outlet/amperage?

I've got two of these and they work great, but if you can use a 30A one you could find some much better deals on eBay for used enterprise ones.

u/MoogleMan3 · 0 pointsr/buildapcsales

Skip this. Spend a bit more and get a superior surge protector. 4320 joules, 12 outlets. I have a few of them in use throughout my house and they're all rock solid. The swivel outlets are an excellent feature. Rosewill makes the same thing as well; sometimes they go on sale at newegg.

u/xoScreaMxo · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Since you seem to know a bit more than I do about this stuff, what's your opinion on this? I'm thinking of buying it, I could use a good surge protector. Thanks for any opinions

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JE9LD4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

u/siegewolf · 1 pointr/gaming

I'm sure you know that you can get something quite wonderful for that price. Also, probably figured I should link you to one.

u/lightfork · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thanks, yes exactly. I was just curious to see the filtration but unfortunately they don't list it. Regardless - it works.

Tripp Lite's versions such as this normally have upto 40 db of RFI/EMI filtration which is a pretty big notch!

They also make these too if you don't want a power bar.

u/jaybitalls · 1 pointr/gamecollecting

I bought this one myself and really like it: http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-BP112230-08-Pivot-Plug-Surge-Protector/dp/B000JE9LD4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1345835250&sr=8-3&keywords=surge+protector

The outlets on the side pivot up and down, so it accommodates power blocks pretty well.

u/chuccck · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

The tv has usb port but it says service, not a feature of viewing anything off a flash drive, so i am unsure of the power output. I didnt think you could code the pi to "shutdown", but that would mean messing the code of rasplex i believe.

I think I found a simpler solution: smart power strips.

this one has one control plug i plug the tv into and it should turn off the other "control" devices once the tv is off. That should be the simplest solution that would cut the power to the pi once the tv is turned off, and turn on the power to the plug once the tv is turned on.

I am new to rasplex and the pi in general, there is no shutdown sequence like in windows correct? Its just unplug to turn off no matter what its doing?

u/OSUTechie · 1 pointr/techsupport

What you want is a Power Distribution Unit or PDU. They come in all sizes from a hand full of sockets to a lot of sockets. Something like this Tripp-Lite will work.

u/notviolence · 1 pointr/buildapc

so are you not recommending surge protectors? what do you recommend? are you saying something like this is worthless?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000511U7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/vinchbr · 1 pointr/electricians

Thanks for the lengthy response.
The circuit the fridge is on has a gfci within the system but I don't know if the fridge bypasses it.
I will look at it tomorrow.
Would an ac line filter (something like this Tripp Lite Isobar 2 Outlet Surge Protector/Suppressor, Wall Mount Direct Plug-in, & $10K INSURANCE (ULTRABLOK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006B81D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0IUZzbX9QTFX2) show that the ac supply is not the problem?

u/bugalou · 1 pointr/DIY

Might I suggest adding a surge protector inside your mirror to protect your Pi and Monitor from basic surges? Something like this:

http://amzn.com/B00006B81E

Or do the splitting with a 2 way box like this (It also will take more of a hit than the previous one):

http://amzn.com/B00006B81D


I notice your weather was Philly (South Jersey here!) so thunderstorms may not be the biggest concern, but I think it would be worth adding.

u/Aytrydez · 1 pointr/homelab

Along with this, if you're willing to spend a little bit of money you could consider getting a basic rack mount PDU like Tripplite PDU which might allow you to consolidate all the power closer to the source and let you route/bundle it a bit cleaner - instead of having all the wires reaching back to the bottom of the rack.

u/Plodding_Mediocrity · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I put in a dedicated GFCI by my rack with one of the outlets used for a power rack strip (like this www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFZ98YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SauWAbC9Y266D) which is for filters, heaters, etc. The other outlet is for a generic Chinese-made WiFi enabled power strip so I can individually program light times. Good setup and not too expensive (compared to professional equipment).

u/MortaLPortaL · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This would be essential for a custom or regular sized desktop for wireless internet in dorms or places where you have no Ethernet access.

This is also essential. It's an amazing surge protector for the price to keep your electronics safe.

u/viners · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

Would this still be an issue if I were only plugging in EVGA computer PSUs? Those come with overcurrent protection I believe and won't pull more than what they're rated at. If not, would any of these work?

​

https://www.amazon.ca/Bestten-Outlet-Rack-Mount-Aluminum-Protector/dp/B01DKDI9VU

https://www.amazon.ca/ADJ-Products-PC-100A-8-Channel-Center/dp/B00KFZ98YO/

https://www.amazon.ca/Cyberpower-CPS1215RM-Rackmount-Power-Strip/dp/B00077IG3O

​

Or even a cheap thing like this? https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-6-Outlet-Surge-Protector-Power/dp/B00TP1C1UC

​

Thank you!

u/kaw97 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Buy a Tripplite surge protector. They're extremely high quality and their warranty will cover up to $50,000 of damage if a surge damages any equipment plugged into it. I work in scientific research, and my old lab had every rig plugged into one for noise reduction and surge protection with the warranty.

They're heavy, and a fair deal more expensive than most surge protecters, but it's well worth it in my opinion, for just the situation you've encountered.

I believe they also have models that accept ethernet.

u/MarkK7800 · 5 pointsr/Ubiquiti

You can get the surge protectors with the plugs on the back. And if that doesn't fit, grab some 1 ft extension cords.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00077INZU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Since I plug into a UPS anyway, I bought this power strip and label what each switch does. I love it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFZ98YO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/jlian · 1 pointr/answers

Thanks for the answer. I live in Canada and ended up finding this http://www.amazon.ca/Belkin-Conserve-Socket-Energy-Saving/dp/B003P2UMQ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406090507&sr=8-1&keywords=power+saver+belkin

However I ended up getting a new (used, cheap) receiver with a switched AC outlet in the back that allowed me to accomplish this setup. The old receiver is a bit busted anyway.

u/ElliotNess · 1 pointr/mildlyinfuriating

Mine is similar, but the outlets swivel to allow room for stuff like OP.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JE9LD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9Jy7AbRB5QC6X

u/MarkSPI · 2 pointsr/electricians

I know, and I can buy them, or buy one of those squid surge protectors, but the point was that I would be happier if they just came that way.

u/espo83 · 3 pointsr/gamecollecting

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-D080B-008K-PowerSquid-Protection-Conditioner/dp/B0055YB7IA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345825246&sr=8-2&keywords=power+squid

I always liked the look of these. It would make it easier to have NES, SNES, Sega and all the consoles with big transformers all plugged in.

u/thrash99er · 1 pointr/homeautomation

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-DSC11-Sockets/dp/B00H3RL6JW

​

This is a good one, if work with SmartThings and can set up each smart plug as a different device. I use a few of these.

u/EvilGreenDevil · -1 pointsr/cade

Why not use a PC?

To your question: a smart strip will work. Something like this

u/kickstand · 1 pointr/travel

Be careful about using a splitter. The splitter itself has to be 220-compatible.

For example, I have this Belkin travel power splitter but it cannot be used outside North America.

EDIT: What I have is a bunch of these travel adpaters. They are not particularly small, but they are cheap. They will work with any device that is 120/220 compatible, like most chargers for electronics (but probably not your alarm clock radio).

u/baisedZReviewfanboy · 1 pointr/electricians

Would this be a good one? http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Protector-Network-HT10DBS/dp/B0002QPC28

Thank you so much for the help!

u/theflyersrule · 1 pointr/hometheater

Also saw this
https://www.amazon.com/Furman-Standard-Conditioning-Outlets-Spacing/dp/B0014598WQ

Now I'm still having trouble understanding the benefit of the APC or Cyberpower over something like the TPLink below.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AI0N2?ref_=pe_623860_70668520

Can you also explain how these work with modern day devices and having multiple hooked up drawing power? If I have my Sub, AVR, TV, PS4, Switch, etc that like 5-6 devices all pulling energy. I assume most of these surge units just plug into a standard wall socket and and provide enough juice for all devices without causing one to shut down or function incorrectly due to lack of juice.

u/newDieTacos · 1 pointr/electricians

Thanks for the advice!

I have one of these Belkin surge protectors: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JE9LD4/ref=aw_d_pd_electronics

and one of these APC Surgearrest surge protectors: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012YLTR6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1397065424&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

As a side note, would my electrician be okay with me running the Romex (not connected on either end?

u/jjbbllkk · 1 pointr/synthesizers

I have like, 5 of there. If you need to plug into a power strip, these are the way to go. Otherwise, use a Furman or a rackmount power thing. These are cheap and useful : https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Network-Grade-Wide-Spaced-RS1215-RA/dp/B00006B834/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483140763&sr=8-6&keywords=rack+power

u/crmaki · 1 pointr/gadgets

Looks like Amazon has a better price.

u/Kairus00 · 6 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

I have a 12 outlet version and it's a great device!

u/chancethebanker · 1 pointr/smallbusiness

what are your thoughts on a strip like this?

Edit: Also what would you recommend for a UPS?

u/lanemeyer88 · 1 pointr/Vue

My brother and his family were struggling with their new 1 tb cap with Comcast. He discovered the rest of the family wasn't always backing out of apps like Vue/Pandora/Netflix before shutting off the tv because they were expecting the hdmi cec to put the fire tvs to sleep. Either the FireTV or tv hdmi cec wasn't working correctly but he would turn on a tv later and find apps that had been running for hours while everyone was sleeping or at work/school. He added a smart power strip to every tv which shuts off power to FireTV when the tv gets turned off. It does take the FireTVs a little extra time to power up vs. waking up from sleep but it has solved his particular cap issue. I think this is the brand strip he bought: https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-SCG-3M-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482162910&sr=8-3&keywords=smart+power+strip

u/Ruinf20 · 1 pointr/gaming

Every company makes ther power adapter to try and be the best, by doing that there all different. What you need it a power strip that can use any and all of them this is what I use in my game room and all through my house, it saves your life. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JE9LD4?psc=1&th=1

u/Umlautica · 1 pointr/NoAudiophile

Take a look at smart power strips like this one. Without cracking one open, I bet there is a hall effect sensor on the master outlet that controls a bank of relays on the switched outlets. Just connect anything like a receiver or TV to the master and the speakers to the switched.

u/Bored_Stiff69 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Smart Power Strip WiFi Plug TONBUX Multiple Outlet Surge Protector USB Bar & FCC Certified Remote Control Timing Schedule Voice Control with Alexa Echo Google Home IFTTT Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779R4879/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SyD4DbGJHEXZM

You could get something like this, that allows each individual plug to be controlled. I have a meross outdoor plug that I use for Christmas lights and both plugs are independent.

u/wkrick · 9 pointsr/MAME

A "Smart Strip" is a popular option...
http://amazon.com/dp/B000P1QJXQ

It has 1 "control" outlet that you would plug your PC into. When you turn on the PC, the power strip turns on 3 other outlets (monitor, marquee lights, powered speakers). When you turn the PC off, it cuts power to the 3 other outlets.

To make turning the PC on/off more convenient from outside the cabinet, you can disconnect the PC start button from the motherboard, which is just a momentary contact switch and replace it with really long wires and a momentary contact switch on the outside of the cabinet. Note that windows is designed to shut down when you press the power switch so it works out great.

This is the switch I used. It mounts in the spot where the original cabinet's toggle power switch was located...

Radio Shack #275-609
http://ebay.com/itm/331798753279

For wire, I just picked up a roll of cheap, thin speaker wire (two-conductor).

Note that the surge protector cord is only 4 foot long, so you might need a heavy-duty extension cord. I recommend appliance extension cords that are sold at Home Depot and Lowes. They come in shorter lengths.

EDIT: Another (more expensive) option is a USB triggered power strip.
http://amazon.com/dp/B002PX78XW

It works the same way as the "Smart Strip" above except that there's a USB cable that plugs into the PC. When the PC is powered on, the USB port gets power and triggers the power strip to turn on the rest of the outlets. Note that this will only work if your PC does NOT keep the USB ports always powered on. Some motherboards can be configured to have "USB standby power on/off" but some are always on with no option to turn it off.

u/Beaver-Believer · 1 pointr/electronics

I recently bought two of these for each side of the bedroom beside the bed: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015DYMVO/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01

They are awesome.

u/Nhord · 2 pointsr/ccna

I bought one of these a couple of months ago and it works great. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Individually-Controlled-TLP76MSG/dp/B0068LACFI

u/the14thgod · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm using this power strip and the power situation is pretty stable but it's an apartment complex. Every once in a great while a surge but that's maybe a few times a year.
 
My computer does not reach the point of lighting up beyond the little power button on the mother board having light. I don't have the 'dongle diddly bopper thingamajig' you speak of. I don't recall if it every shut down without a BSOD warning (don't remember the specific warning either).
 
Is there another way I could test the power supply? Slightly paranoid now and maybe I should keep the new PSU just in case. Wondering if I just need to go back to MicroCenter and get yet another mobo but I'm starting to burn money left & right here :/

u/___Paladin___ · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Disclaimer: I am not the best in the world with cables. My needs were to simply get the stuff off the floor and remove spaghetti danger traps when navigating. I didn't want anything too permanent in case I needed to alter my setup and I couldnt modify the desk. Everything below is just for inspiration purposes, as I'm sure much more could be done for much less. This should cover some common items in cable management, though.

This is the route I took. I didn't really have the cable length to play with at the time and didn't feel like messing with more cables.

The key players here are dmoose power box to hold a large belkin outlet filled to the brim with power cables and transformer boxes. Good ventilation on the box and no thermal issues.

For the behind the monitor stuff I used reusable cable ties to bundle runs together and sleeved them with zipper wire organizers .

u/TheAceMan · 0 pointsr/homeautomation

I use one of these:

Smart Strip SCG-3M Energy Saving Surge Protector with Autoswitching Technology, 7-Outlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kZ7oybSPNDPE9

u/Vesha · 1 pointr/SmartThings

I use this Aeotec by Aeon Labs DSC11 Smart Power Strip Z-Wave Power Sockets. It can monitor energy and you can control 4 of the 6 plugs independently if you download the right device handler. Also monitor each plugin power separately.

u/GunzenRozez · 3 pointsr/ReefTank

https://www.amazon.com/ADJ-Products-PC-100A-POWER-STRIP/dp/B00KFZ98YO

I am so tempted. Not having to fumble around to shut off the skimmer, and pumps for feeding would be sweet. Have to admit to. I have a place
to mount too.

u/willfe · 14 pointsr/Frugal

Gladly! Here is the model I use in my apartment. A touch on the pricey side, but worth it IMO. They make bigger ones too, but I haven't had the need for them yet.

u/The0ldMan · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

I bought one of these a while back for my home theater. Since nothing in my setup draws a lot of power, it's perfect.

u/doubleme · 1 pointr/audiophile

Yeah, I'm gonna see if I get any interference by plugging it into a different surge protector. I did find one like you were talking about. I'll report back if switching surge protectors fixes things.

u/mandlar · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

I use two of these power strips, perfect for large adapters.

u/VMU_kiss · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Sorry I'm Australian so you may not call it that it's a powerstrip in the US.

This is what I mean if this helps:
https://www.amazon.com/SCG-3MVR-Smart-Strip-7-Outlets-Protector/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=pd_sbs_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000P1QJXQ&pd_rd_r=GHZFA9H8QWGHPAFRB321&pd_rd_w=R2Jk5&pd_rd_wg=Zx5A5&psc=1&refRID=GHZFA9H8QWGHPAFRB321

Basically used for PC's where once the PC is off it turns off the rest of the outlets but when the pc is back on it turns on the outlets meant for printers etc.

If it's hooked up to the xbox it will turn all the sockets on when xbox is on and just use some usb power supply plugged into it and your good to go

u/Spudlab564 · 2 pointsr/homelab

like this? Made an assumption that you where in the US, so amazon .com but sure you can get these elsewhere, I have seen them in the UK before

u/rinnip · 0 pointsr/electricians

Don't cheap out on the power strip. I like this one. It's well built and has individual switches for the outlets.

u/valkyr · 1 pointr/headphones

Actually, just found this old thread on Ars of someone with my exact same motherboard, case, and power supply (kinda freaky IMO). Looks like his fix was a Hum-X... not sure if that's worth the investment or if I should just get a decent surge protector with noise filtration. Something like this Isobar?

u/digga3232 · 1 pointr/amazonecho

Super cheap device

(discontinued, but still work) I have 2 (total of 4 smart 'outlets') and they are cheaper now then when I bought them a year ago or so.

u/cdawwgg43 · 2 pointsr/homelab

The rocker panel runs to a UPS and then each server has it's own UPS. The switches, ONT for my fiber, modem, etc don't have power switches/buttons and don't draw too much so it's really easy to just turn them off and turn them back on right there instead of having to unplug them. It just turns the socket off. Each switch corresponds to an outlet on the back. It's the pinnacle of laziness and convenience. It's also available on Amazon

u/kanji_sasahara · 1 pointr/AskReddit

You don't need paperclips or thumbtacks, you can probably find it at printing centers around campus. A portable surge protector is probably a good idea
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015DYMVO
Better than an extension cable. Do you already have a smartphone? Since that will replace an alarm clock.

u/ShaneMANJ · 1 pointr/googlehome

Two smart outlets.. 25 dollars. Works with IFTTT. Quirky PPVG-WH01 Pivot Power Genius, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN92MC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wakAzb7HWQS8V

u/obmasztirf · 1 pointr/hometheater

I am thinking of getting this guy after I noticed a faulty socket in my existing surge protector. I swapped the bad one out with a good one but I still want better.


Tripp Lite 10 Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip Tel/Modem 8ft Cord 2395 Joules (TLP1008TEL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AI0N2/

u/exjentric · 5 pointsr/Frugal

This shuts off the power to your outlet after 30 minutes, 3 hours, or 6 hours. I think it'll help me, since I plug my phone in to recharge at night, and I'm sure just a 3 or 6 hour-recharge will be adequate.

This turns off your DVD-player et al. when you turn off your TV. I wonder if it could be used for computers and computer accessories too.

I haven't purchased these items, but I plan to when I move next week.

u/Jeepdog539 · 11 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

That's exactly why I dont buy power strips, but rather power squids. Like this one

u/Vole182 · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

My wife and I travel international a couple times a year. Normally England, Australia or Japan.

We pack an HDMI cable, Belkin power strip, and power adapters.
HDMI cable
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014I8SSD0/
Power Adapters
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0080R95XI/
And this power bar or strip
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015DYMVO/

It pretty much covers all of our bases.

u/evoltap · 5 pointsr/Austin

I use this with some very expensive gear behind it. $10,000 coverage plus favorable reviews of it doing its job.

u/markseesred · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

I always bring a 3 outlet with 2 usb ports with me when I travel.

Smiles everywhere.