Reddit mentions: The best power tool saw accessories

If you have a PCS/ICS it's a pretty easy setup but the saw is still super heavy, best to have a helper to get it together, especially the wings and tipping the saw upright. The instructions are very easy to follow. I spent an hour or two going over it with a dial indicator but it was a waste of time, mine came pretty much perfect out of the box.

The only thing I don't like about the saw is the miter gauge. It isn't bad for a basic miter gauge, but you'll be much happier with a nicer one like an incra 1000.

Some of the things you're saying make me think that maybe you aren't great at installing doors. Lemme just go ahead and give you the best pro tip ever. Get yourself a pair of clamps designed for use with a track saw rail. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001J31PJM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1410073862&sr=8-1. There are cheaper options but these are really nice for only a few extra bucks. Clamp a level to the inside of the hinge side of the jamb using these. This will leave you with about 3/8" of clamp between the jamb and the RO. It will also keep the hinge side of the jamb perfectly straight while you endeavor to level it, and free up a hand for you. Install the hinge side perfectly level. Set up this way, doing so should take you about half as much time as it usually does. The best way to do this is without the door in the jamb. After the hinge side is set, put the door back on the jamb and set the top so you have an even reveal off the door slab. Then set the lock side the same way. Once the hinge side is set, don't use a level any more.

Others have mentioned making a splitter but you can also buy one. Microjig makes what's pretty much standard at this point: https://www.amazon.com/MICRO-JIG-SP-2-TK-SPLITTER-SteelPro/dp/B00B03PMY0

Having a good fence already, a zero clearance insert, and a splitter are pretty much the best things to do in terms of use/safety. The only other recommendation I'd give (looks like you've done this) is to keep the top cleaned and smooth.

For push sticks, stay away from stuff like this.

Instead, go for something like [this] (http://www.finewoodworking.com/pdf/Push_Stick.pdf), which you can make yourself. There are all kinds of designs actually, but having more surface area contact the wood is a good idea as it allows you to put more pressure on the wood to keep it in place, both downward towards the table saw and towards the fence and away from the blade.

You can make a featherboard, but you can get a good enough plastic one at Harbor Freight for 5 bucks.

You should get or make a zero clearance insert. Making them can be kinduva pain in the ass, so I would just order one from woodcraft for 20 bucks.

As far as riving knifes go, you could get away with a micro-jig splitter, which might be easier than finding old parts. This is what I did for my saw, also an older craftsman and it works pretty great.

Lastly, eventually you're gonna want to make a crosscut sled as this will make it a lot easier and safer to do crosscutting.

Zero clearance insert

Dado zero clearance insert

That dado stack is decent. Not great, but OK. This one is a lot better and the best bargain dado stack

Irwin Marples 50 tooth blade. Lowes sells these if you don't want to order online. I have a few dozen table saw blades. This is by far the best blade short of a Woodworker II or Tenryu Gold Medal.

If you plan on working with 5/4+ hardwoods, get a 24 tooth diablo rip blade. It makes a big difference

Start with one GR Rripper

if you don't have a dial indicator, get one. You'll need it to adjust for runout

Decide on dust collection. You'll need to install the shroud if you use it, or leave it off if you don't. It's a huge pain in the ass to install after the fact, but can be done. A shop vac isn't recommended, but if you decide to give it a shot, you'll need a 4" to 2.5" reducer. Something like this will keep up pretty well if you just wanted to bite the bullet.

Decide how you are going to cross cut. I prefer a sled, some like a miter gauge. The included one sucks.

Osborne EB3 or the Incra 1000/HD

Congrats! I have the same saw and love it! To make it even better, you may want to consider getting a zero clearance throat insert. I got one and it is a really nice, cheap improvement

https://www.amazon.com/Leecraft-DW-2-Zero-Clearance-Insert-DeWalt/dp/B0000223V9

If he is going to be using a table saw, one a GRR-ripper would be a good gift. I've been wanting one, but never pulled the trigger. This helps cut thin pieces on the table saw. Also generally safer than normal push sticks.

http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC

Another thing to go with many power tools is a magnetic feather block. This also helps keep things safe on power tools. It keep wood tight to a reference surface, helping accuracy and safety.

http://www.amazon.com/Mesa-Vista-Design-GRIP-TITE-Featherboard/dp/B0000223VF

With regards to making it more safe, you could get something like the Grripper. It's a pushblock that makes cutting smaller and thinner pieces a lot safer on the table saw. I just got one for myself, and I love it.

You can also use it with a router table, a band saw and a huge number of other ways too. It's a nice little tool.

I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.

So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?

Here is a link to it,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9UNWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE9RE3CEz4E

I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.

So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?

Here is a link to it,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9UNWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE9RE3CEz4E

Sandpaper would work on steel but why would you want to "fix" what shouldn't be broken out of the box?

I would either as for a replacement or get a better quality one, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Incra-MITERV27-Miter-V27-Gauge/dp/B0007UQ2DW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=BEZ5PAYZGCKR&keywords=incra+miter+gauge+v27&qid=1562083421&s=gateway&sprefix=incra+miter%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-3

Yes, it is over twice the price of the one you bought but worth every penny.

I nominate /u/Glasspirate for [this 10.00 gift] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037Z7D0A/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1BE5CQNQKYRGQ&coliid=ILWPSHDMT376T) because he is cool and is a very positive person and /u/kratz5ive for [this 10.00 gift] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L9OPJIO/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=16ATUS4UFAYN7&coliid=I294CI84TRYQCX) because he is super cool and nice.

I built mine from scratch for aroun $20 (minus cost of jigsaw). Heres how.

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Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Reciprotools-RCT-A10-Reciprocating-Saw-Adapter/dp/B001CNHDR2/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1TH3RD5RZNXDS&keywords=jigsaw+adapter+massager&qid=1554393001&s=gateway&sprefix=jigsaw+adapt%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-5

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Get desired balls. I used a lax and golf ball so I have two. Drill a hole about halfway into both the balls (its super easy). You want to use a drill bit that is about the size of a regular 2-3in bit youd put on your drill. Something like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-Tough-Grip-5-Piece-2-in-2-Phillips-Shank-Screwdriver-Bit/999928876

You can pick up a pack of 4/5 for under $5. Make sure you get the ones with the hex end otherwise it wont fit in the attachement.

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Ok, Drill hole halfway thorugh ball, squirt some krazy glue in hole, hammer bit phillips head side IN, wait for it to set, then attach to the attachment and voila, you have just created it yourself.

Perhaps this will get me flamed here for doing things the wrong way but it's working for me on my table-less setup (currently making a router table and saving up for a table saw so I can avoid relying so heavily on these techniques in the future).

A table saw is probably what you need to do this properly but this is sort of a "poor mans fence".

My current workaround is to draw my cut line, and then clamp a straight edge ruler (or other material that's perfectly straight) 1" to the side. When I make my cut I know it will be perfectly straight if I keep the metal guide flush to the clamped piece the entire time.

This is also how I'm using my router with straight bits to make dado cuts (measure up 2 3/4" from the center line for my router guide)...I know there are probably better ways to do this but again, no table saw so I'm making due with what I know and what I've got.

• This might also be a decent purchase depending on your needs:
  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007K5HIFS/
  
  
• For fun, here's another similar item for converting a hand drill to a portable drill press:
  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/
  
  
  Those are both probably tools/adapters which are not going to be better than a table saw or drill press but they're also appealing for those with limited budget or limited work space.

I agree with most of what has been suggested here. A microjig Gripper, a better saw blade, the one that comes with the saw is crap. A dado set. He can make push sticks, I like the ones I made better than the store bought. You could also get him a gift card to a hardwood store or HD/Lowes so he can buy lumber or anything else he needs.

• Micro Jig Gripper
  
• Dado Stack
  
• incra v27
  
• Digital level/Angle finder for making sure your blade is at 90 or 45 degrees
  
  

Here's why these questions are really hard to answer. Consumers tend to only have experience with one or two of these type of saws because they're expensive and good ones last for ages. A consumer will buy one; either they like it enough not to buy another, or very rarely they hate it enough to the point where they get a second one and that's the only one they ever use. Contrast this with something cheaper like a jig saw or a orbital sander where a random consumer might have gone through three over the course of a decade and have two at any given time.

Second we have no idea what you want it for, or what workspace you're setting it up in. One guy on here recommended a portable contractor saw. That might be a good recommendation if you have very limited space or if you want to throw it in a truck every once in a while. But every just about every portable saw will be lighter and less accurate than an equivalent stationary saw. So it's only the right call for you under a very specific set of circumstances.

Now with that grain of salt I can tell you that I bought the R4512 in march after a good bit of research. I paid 400 after the harbor freight coupon. It runs smoothly and I can get accurate rips and cross cuts. I was able to get the blade square without too much trouble and it hasn't moved since I did my initial setup. the anti kickback pawls and blade guard are easy to remove and install.

Like just about any saw the blade was much crappier than a $30 aftermarket combination blade so regardless of what saw you buy I'd recommend you upgrade that. The biggest drawback of the R4512 for me is the fence. It's a piece of shit and it's hard to keep it perfectly square. This is where relative advice is useful. Most people that use this saw will tell you they hate the fence, but the same people will also tell you they'll never touch a contractor saw or a low end craftsman saw. So keep that in mind when comparing it to other saws. if you're budget is $700 and you can buy the r4512 and upgrade the fence to something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Vega-PRO-50-Table-System/dp/B000022622/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376446516&sr=8-1&keywords=table+saw+fence

Good luck and let us know when you choose a saw and when you make something on it.

Look for a micro-jig http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-SP-2-TK-Splitter-Steelpro/dp/B00B03PMY0.

Splitters keep the saw kerf from pinching on the blade causing safety issues like kickback, or keep the piece between the blade and fence past the saw cut from riding up the blade and thowing the piece back at you. Some kickbacks can cause your hand to be drawn right into the blade.

Riving knives are even better but not available on some older models.

They are pretty important for safety reasons. They serve two purposes, keeping the cut piece pushed against the fence and keeping the cutoff piece from pinching closed and binding on the blade.

This would be pretty neat. Pretty expensive though. I'd rather frame build something out old plastic campaign signs and duck tape Rousseau 5000 Dust Solution for Miter Saws, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MFGRT06/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Y9VAwb4VYYCEA

I found this product that you can use with a zero clearance insert. It looks like on closer inspection my saw can accept a riving knife but these seem pretty reasonable.

MJ SPLITTER Table Saw Safety Splitter and Riving Knife Alternative for Zero Clearance Insert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7KT6PM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_oUS5Bb7J7DGDB

Leecraft makes zero clearance inserts for that saw. You can pick them up on Amazon. You can of course make your own as you were saying, but I went with the pre-made, phenolic ones. They fit my saw perfectly and lasted for years. They make the one in the link below and a dado insert.


http://www.amazon.com/LEECRAFT-RIDGID-R4512-Zero-Clearance-Insert/dp/B0057EANZ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414356023&sr=8-2&keywords=rigid+leecraft

I was in a similar spot and opted for the G0555P due to both budget and space issues. I did add the riser and don't have any rigidity issues - the riser is a heavy duty cast chunk of material and bolts tightly. Glad I did - the extra room really helps. I added a Kreg bandsaw fence that I can adjust for drift and a resaw guide, which was a HUGE improvement over the cracker jack fence it comes with. I also added this fancy aftermarket modification to keep from gumming up the tires.

Edit: with a quality blade I haven't had any problems with power on the G0555P when resawing hard maple and mahogany. The blade it comes with is junk after very limited use.

These are good too: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC

They can hold the peice and the offcut so that helps prevent kickback.

Take your time, cut slowly and keep your eye on the blade as if you push the price through to fast it won't like it.

Practice makes perfect. Good luck
Edit: spelling

This thing has been great: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC

I feel so much safer using it than I did using crappier push-sticks. The videos really show how you can use safely, and it's quick and easy to adjust.

Some are, some aren't. I picked up the Incra V27 for my old Craftsman and it works great. The runners are slightly adjustable so they fit perfectly.

There are some kinds of aftermarket splitter-style solutions.

Like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/SPLITTER-Safety-Splitter-Alternative-Clearance/dp/B00L7KT6PM

I don't know how good that thing is in practice. Certainly not as good as a real solid riving knife/bladeguard combination, but maybe much better than nothing.

Without a riving knife, it's very easy to have horrible accidents.

Just a second of letting attention slip and the wood goes flying and maybe drags your hand into the blade.

With a riving knife and blade guard, you basically have to push your hand actively into the blade from the front.

Which happens, of course, but much less frequently then the kind of kickback-induced accidents that are so frequent without riving knives.

​

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I'll never fault someone for erring on the side of caution, and it only has to save you once for the 2k to be worth it, but all you really need is something like this - where the blade passes under the tool.

Ha.. That is exactly why I got them. There are 2 that I have.
This is the MicroJig one - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GB-1-GRR-Rip-Block/dp/B00DNX3N7S
And the other is the GRRRipper - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC
If you can afford it, get the 2 pack of the GRR Ripper. I like that one best.

With the fence locked into place a short distance from the saw blade, and with the saw unplugged, take a measuring tape or ruler and measure the distance from one tooth at the front of the blade to the fence, then, rotate the blade so that tooth is now at the back of the blade and measure again. If the measurements are identical then your fence is square. That is the single most important aspect to getting use out of that table saw, aside from it actually running.

My fence was not consistently square so I made one that was. I also replaced the miter gauge with this. I also switched to a link belt. With the amount that I have to shorten the belt, every 3rd full belt that I buy should allow me to make a 4th belt with the leftovers. I have not replaced my pulleys with machined pulleys yet, but I'm not sure that I'll need to. I did also get a PALS kit as a precautionary measure. Leecraft makes some nice zero clearance inserts and Micro Jig makes a splitter insert kit that will help prevent your cuts from binding on the blade.

Aside from that, there are restoration video playlists on Youtube for the 113 series table saws in all their various sub-types.

http://www.amazon.com/Vega-PRO-40-42-Inch-40-Inch/dp/B000022621/

This one looks like a good match as well, though it's more $$.

Pair them up with a set of MJ splitters and it's a beautiful thing when you push that first board through the blade like buttah.

The table looks amazing! Going off the one picture where you were using a straight edge as a guide for your circular saw, which looked like it would've done an excellent job, but here's the regular tool for future projects where that setup may not fit.

OH WOW. I should have seen this coming.

The Amazon listing for the ReciproTool Adapter has... quite the list of "customers also purchased..." suggestions.

NSFW: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CNHDR2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=a03c8bf3-20&linkId=7d139999a5d1321736a0670020b022a0

Good looking chair! My wife wants me to build he an Adirondack; did you find particular plans? Or make some yourself?

Also, for a quick fix until you get a router table, I've heard good things about the Bench Dog Bench Cookies. I just got a set myself but haven't used them for holding a small piece while I rout yet. Perhaps someone who has these can weigh in on how well they work.

A scrap board and 2 clamps will make you a fence. Just make sure you clamp it square.

Or you can do as I did and spend $40 on one of these which should give you a nice straight cut on larger stock. (Can't vouch for the use personally - just got mine for Christmas and haven't had a chance to play with it yet. Theory is sound, though.)

Just get a decent fence and blade for that table saw and it's pretty nice.

Thanks, I’ve been looking into this. Anybody have experience with this (MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B03PMY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bmKyCbBQ5E1XN) product, seems easy to implement

Cross-cutting is easy enough, and so are sheet goods.
For ripping you'll want a featherboard and a push-stick. You could get a commercial push-stick like the Grr-ripper, or you could make your own. I prefer the "shoe" style from that page.

do it. It saved us a lot of money and weight. This tool saved us so much time: https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2675-Rip-Cut/dp/B007K5HIFS

Oh here's a video of the plywood ripping in action -
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nXsiJ3pFQXt10Fs65_MdHMJMFly2gAld/view?usp=sharing

Avoid this- https://youtu.be/ZUZ8hRm7a8g

Make this- https://youtu.be/uE9f4bp_wm8

Thank God you had your riving intalled!

Invest in some safety equipment like this- GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblock for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws, and Jointers by MICROJIG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I9UNWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UZWFDb7PAEVH9

There's nothing saw specific about a push stick, and they are cheap and easy to find. Here's one I like:

http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Designs-10230-Power-Hands/dp/B001C4O92I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405315059&sr=8-1&keywords=table+saw+push+stick

Beyond using scrap wood or 1x2s screwed/clamped down as a guide, you can also buy something like this that's a bit more reusable. This Old House also has a nice method for making your own guide that has proper offsets for both sides of the circular saw base.

Quite a few Kreg products seem to be dipping at both Amazon/Home Depot.

Their Kreg KMS7102 Table Saw Precision Miter Gauge System for $70 below the typical $150 caught my eye but I don't know if even at $80 it would be useful enough over my sleds.

This one is a goner.

Few other things:

Kreg PRS2100 Bench Top Router Table $144 (Normally around $250)

Kreg KMS8000 Precision Trak and Stops Kit $72 (Normally around $140)

Update: All gone.

This is awesome; especially if you can figure out how to take things down in 24" wide sections.

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2675-Rip-Cut/dp/B007K5HIFS

I haven't looked at the Kreg KMS7102 Table Saw Precision Miter Gauge System yet, but I like that you can add a sacrificial fence and still use the flip stop.

I did look at the Incra MITER1000SE Miter Gauge Special Edition With Telescoping Fence and Dual Flip Shop Stop and INCRA Miter1000/HD Miter Gauge when I went to Rockler awhile back. Though these both have telescoping fences with dual flip stops, it doesn't look like you can add a sacrificial fence and still use the included fence stops. The sacrificial fence would help reduce tear-out.

I use this one from Amazon and love it. It's pretty big but I'm completely in control with my work.

http://smile.amazon.com/Tool-Designs-10230-Power-Hands/dp/B001C4O92I

I just bought one of these to try on my table saw: https://www.amazon.com/MJ-SPLITTER-SteelPro-Kerf-MICROJIG/dp/B003E623C0

At least for straight cuts using a zero-clearance table saw insert, I'm hoping it will make things a little safer.

For the really, REALLY lazy...

FYI, OP's design is excellent and his reasoning really, really sound. I have the one I linked to, because I find the rubber to give me even more control than the home-grown version, but you should at least use that.

I also have a GRIPPR, (which was an Xmas present). I find it too cumbersome to adjust and use for most things (hence the orange one above), but in specialized cases it's wonderful. Probably wouldn't spend the money out of pocket though. (I've been through 15 woodworking Xmases so far, so at this point I put really, really obnoxious stuff on my list).

But how do you cut the pieces for your fence straight without a fence? This is the same problem I ran into building my first workbench!

But seriously, in addition to your good recommendation, OP might also want to consider a circular saw guide like this Kreg one that will allow them to cut perfectly parallel to an existing edge (i.e. ripping), or a simple clamp-on saw guide for crosscuts or anything else <48".

For a miter gauge I'd recommend something like this which you can then expand by attaching a long board to the face.

well let's look at the amazon order I just made.

camera - $200

tablet - $180

shirt - $20

shirt - $20

heart thing for wife - $70

loppers - $30

bt headphones - $50

foodsaver - $100

jeggings (wife) - $20

bra (wife) - $30

plan weights - $10

socks - $10

That leaves me with another $260 to spend...

I'm going to delete the wife stuff and the socks...

and go $10 over by buying a PS4 - $400

I can buy games for it later

They'll definitely work, just be very careful with that old saw. I would suggest you add in a splitter.

MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B03PMY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YOMOBbGMGV4PH

Yeah, be really careful, I tried setting it on top of some bench cookies once when I was new, and I broke my router and ruined the wood, it was a big hunk too, always play safe!

Kreg bandsaw fence is like 50% off on Amazon

Kreg KMS7200 Bandsaw Fence https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007VYL48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Hvl4DbKY4KK1N

Pretty much. I bought the 40 inch version because I work in a one car garage.

Vega 40 pro

You'd need to check the saw. If it doesn't, these little plastic things are very helpful: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7KT6PM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00L7KT6PM&pd_rd_wg=z88nE&pd_rd_r=C7HZC8YSW2E73K7JEAE1&pd_rd_w=p8Tm1

Welcome to the club. Now you need one of these https://www.amazon.com/Rousseau-5000-Solution-Miter-Silver/dp/B00MFGRT06 and you'll be all set.

You ever try anything like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-10-035-Cookie-Grippers/dp/B0037Z7D0A/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1347067719&sr=1-2&keywords=woodworking

Was wondering if they work.

Steve Ramsey likes the Gripper from Microjig: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC

Check this thing out. I haven't tried mine yet but the videos and reviews seem to suggest it works well.

Kreg KMA2685 Circular Saw Guide https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073PFYN4T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_h3vY29zonHEnm

https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2685-Circular-Saw-Guide/dp/B073PFYN4T/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550075452&sr=8-3&keywords=kreg+circular+saw+jig

Highly effective at cutting straight lines with a circular saw, also affirm the insulation backer idea, place the plywood on it and cut away.

I see a lot of people saying another drill, but I'd rather have a saw and a crappy drill than two drills. If he works with a lot of flat boards, I'd say a circular saw and something like this. If he works more with dimensional lumber, a miter saw would be better.

The best solution people come up with is a hood that umbrellas the entire back of the saw. Then the DC gets air flowing down that hood, but it also catches the stuff the blade just chucks back there.

Something like this though DIY solutions abound, too.

Mostly I just resign myself to the idea that the miter saw is messy and will require dust mask and some cleanup.

I highly recommend you buy an aftermarket "t-square" style fence. I have the same saw you do and replaced my fence years ago with a Biesemeyer fence and It made all the deference in the world it's dead on accurate,no more checking with a tape measure before making a cut. It installs in less than an hour . There are several brands that are very similar if not exactly the same as the Biesemeyer that I'm sure would work just as well if not better.
EDIT:
I've heard good things about the vega and it's about half the price .
http://www.amazon.com/Vega-PRO-50-Table-System/dp/B000022622/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1398665608&sr=1-1&keywords=biesemeyer+fence+system

I bought this for such a cutting problem. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007K5HIFS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can get a blank plate on amazon. You might have to do a little retrofitting to the plate to get the riving knife to come up correctly.

http://www.amazon.com/Leecraft-DW-2-Zero-Clearance-Insert-DeWalt/dp/B0000223V9/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1425665422&sr=8-3&keywords=dewalt+dw744+throat+plate

And whats wrong with clamping a piece of wood down? Or yo could use this and your existing saw and save yourself $400. https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2675-Rip-Cut/dp/B007K5HIFS/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1473784486&sr=1-14&keywords=kreg+jig

Don't do this. Please do not do this.

You would get better results with some guides (like this or this) and a couple of sawhorses for the larger cuts. For smaller cuts I would use a miter box or a bench hook and a hand saw.

Designing and building a fence system that would stay parallel to the blade would take too long. If it is not perfectly parallel, or moves while cutting you are going to pinch the wood you are ripping. This is going to result in a board being rammed into your stomach, or a circular saw breaking free of its mount and flying around with a spinning blade. Either way, you are going to have a bad day.

I have the 4512, and the plates are extremely difficult to make on your own since it is so irregular and gets to be very thin on the sides. I tried and failed many times. Get one of these: Leecraft ZC insert Expensive for an insert, yes, but well worth it in my opinion.

Also, as others have said, you don't screw in the plates, the screws are there to level it. The plate sits on top of the screws.

Here ya go GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblock for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws, and Jointers by MICROJIG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I9UNWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TcSXBbPYTVK0F

Where'd you get it from? Is it this one?

One vote for GRR-Rippers.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073PFYN4T/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521496509&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=kreg+tools&dpPl=1&dpID=41iOsl1wvZL&ref=plSrch or this

Looks like your question has been answered as to how to do this cheaply. My suggestion involves spending some money. I use the Incra 1000SE as a replacement for my stock miter gauge and it rocks for these kinds of cuts. I used mine last night to cut some angled feet on a series of table legs and it went super fast. I am constantly slapping this thing on the saw and doing repetitive, precise cuts.

I do too, except for the fence. I recently put an aftermarket VEGA fence on it and it made a world of difference. It's so much nicer knowing that the fence is square every time.

http://www.amazon.com/Vega-PRO-40-42-Inch-40-Inch/dp/B000022621/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1372780286&sr=1-2&keywords=vega+fence

I cant recommend this upgrade enough. I really believe it takes the 4100 to cabinet saw accuracy

I use a Kreg Rip-Cut Guide. The nice thing about it is if you have to make a bunch of cuts of the same width, you just have to measure for the first one, clamp it down and you can quickly do all the rest of your cuts.

Same here. My Gripper basically is unused because I cannot find myself comfortable enough to use it with my hands over the blade. I'd actually use my bandsaw to rip anything thinner than 1" (and use my drum sander or planer afterward. Anything wider and I'm using this Big Horn push stick which is stable. So basically, the Gripper is sitting there as paper weight :(

The single best thing I ever did in my shop was build a proper outfeed table for my table saw. It doubles as a work space, a catch all and a decent finishing table if I throw something on top of it not to mess it up.

Its not fancy by any means but it works. Its MDF and 2x4's but it works flawlessly.

I technically have the room for sheet goods in my shop (its 10x21) but it would be a pain in the ass moving sheet goods in and out of a 36" door. Instead consider ripping them down with a circular saw with one of these. Its very very accurate and makes short work of long cuts. I put my sheet goods on a set of saw horses and can break it down into easier to manage pieces with ease. I was even able to completely redo my closet ripping down 3/4" MDF with that rip guide.

Don't take chances with your health brother. Its just not worth it.

> 213 series

I'm not familiar with the 213 series. What is the HP of the motor? IS it belt driven? Does it get bogged down when cutting thicker stock? Why are you unhappy with your current saw?

The Powermatic 63 is kinda ugly. The color looks like child vomit. The Vega fence looks like this. There is a pipe in the front, tube in the back and the fence slides between the two. It is very sturdy.

You thought about putting a hood on that bad boy?

I used a circular saw with a straightedge jig at first but then I purchased the Kreg Rip-Cut. I didn't use it much before I got my $150 craftsman 113 belt drive-cast iron wings-table saw, and I think I might have used it (the kreg) once since then. If you make that straight edge guide, make sure the fence part is wide enough to place clamps on, and clear the saw motor while remaining clamped.
If your cutting wood more narrow than the jig, I screwed a stop block/riser, the same thickness as the piece being cut, from underneath and clamped the whole thing to a table, sandwiching the piece to be cut in between.

So here's some of what is on my list-- I just copied and pasted over. Some other items to consider would be new saw blades, a low angle block plane, clamps (you can never have too many clamps), featherboards, a table saw thin rip jig, a shop apron, 6 inch metal pocket ruler, keyless chuck for your drill press, and I think that about exhausts my ideas..

Hurricane HTC125 Large Dovetail Jaws ($40)

MJ Splitters for Thin Kerf ($25)

Harbor Freight Pockethole Jig ($50 after 20% coupon-- only buy if you have a coupon)

Coping saw ($5-25)

A pair of holdfasts ($35 +$10S&H)

Edit: Was on phone earlier, added links