(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best power tool saw accessories

We found 212 Reddit comments discussing the best power tool saw accessories. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 94 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

28. Stanley 1-20-600 Saw Storage Miter Box with Saw, Black

    Features:
  • 90°, 45° and 22.5° slots
  • 11.81in length with a patented storage system for the saw
  • Material: aluminum
Stanley 1-20-600 Saw Storage Miter Box with Saw, Black
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height3.98 Inches
Length19.29 Inches
Weight2.2707612986 Pounds
Width6.85 Inches
SizeWith Saw
Number of items1
▼ Read Reddit mentions

30. SAWSTOP Cast Iron Wing Assembly (pair)

SAWSTOP Cast Iron Wing Assembly (pair)
Specs:
Weight0.01 Pounds
Number of items1
▼ Read Reddit mentions

33. Makita 194579-2 Router Guide Rail Adapter

Router Guide Rail AdapterHeavy duty, quality construction194579-2
Makita 194579-2 Router Guide Rail Adapter
Specs:
ColorSilver
Height10.5118110129 Inches
Length2.5196850368 Inches
Weight2.10100535686 Pounds
Width3.3070866108 Inches
Number of items1
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on power tool saw accessories

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where power tool saw accessories are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 35
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 29
Number of comments: 7
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 10
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 8
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 6
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 5
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 5
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 4
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 4
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 3
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 2

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Top Reddit comments about Power Tool Saw Accessories:

u/msur · 2 pointsr/Carpentry

Makita corded orbital sander for sure, any good 10" portable table saw such as Dewalt 745 or Skilsaw SPT70WT-22 that can later fit into one of these, and a Dewalt 734 planer if you really think you need one.

On a budget, a jointer can probably wait. Most of the things you listed as wanting to build won't need it. You'll get a lot more use out of a router early on, and as a bonus a good router costs a lot less than a jointer, and they take up a lot less space. Milwaukee, Dewalt, Bosch, Makita, Rigid, Porter Cable and others all make good routers. Routers generally come in two sizes, standard and compact (aka palm or trim) size. I have a standard size Milwaukee 5615, and it works great. I'm planning on getting the Dewalt DWP611pk for my compact, mainly because it's a highly regarded router, and it comes with a plunge base.

You might consider, instead of getting a table saw, getting a good circular saw and using a guide to do your rip cuts. You can get a Skilsaw SPT77WML-22, a really long ruler and a couple of quick clamps and make cuts just as accurate as any table saw, though it takes a lot more setup for each cut. You don't even need the heavy-duty Skilsaw (I sometimes do this with my baby sized Milwaukee M12 circular saw) but getting a good, big saw now will save you from having to get something more capable later.

If you're serious about getting into woodworking or carpentry, do yourself a favor and get better tools. Ryobi is ok if you're only going to use it once a year, maybe (I understand quality has gone up recently, but still...). Even then I wouldn't trust the accuracy much.

If $500 really is a hard limit, I would focus on getting a circular saw, a router, a sander, some good measuring/marking tools and a crapton of clamps. As many clamps as you can get, big clamps, pipe clamps, quick clamps, right-angle clamps, belt clamps, everything. You will never have too many clamps. However many clamps you have divided by about 4 is the number of things you can have gluing together at once. Get lots of clamps.

Edit: be sure to have some money set aside for good saw blades. Finish-quality saw blades can be $50-100 just for the blade.

u/jaybill · 1 pointr/woodworking

There are many ways to do this, but here's what I'd do: Grab one of these things (or a similar system that attaches to your chainsaw that lets you cut straight lines in logs) and cut them into slabs. I would probably shoot to make the slabs around 4/4, or 1" thick. Once it's dried and milled, this will yield a finished thickness of 3/4". Even if you plan to resaw it down to a thinner final size (for your boxes and such) I'd still dry it as 4/4. Personally, I've had a lot of trouble drying anything thinner than that.

Paint the ends of the pieces with Anchorseal (or even latex paint) to prevent checking. Find a covered dry spot that gets a decent amount of airflow (somewhere you won't miss the space for a year, I use the back of my open carport) and stack up the pieces with stickers (pieces of wood longer than the width of your slabs, cut to say 1" square) between them. Opinions vary on how far apart to place the stickers, I generally go 18". Line the stickers up. Place something heavy (cinder blocks, bricks, etc.) on top of the pile (over wherever the stickers are) to weigh it down and keep it from warping too much. I've also heard of people skipping weights in favor of ratchet tie-downs, but I've never tried this.

Drying time will vary widely depending on climate type of wood, how dry it already is, etc, but plan on a few months to a year before milling.

If this sounds like a fiddly process, well, it is, but it's not super difficult once you get the process down, and you can save a boatload of money versus buying finished lumber.

There's lots of resources online for how to mill/stack/dry lumber. Here's a few I pulled from my bookmarks:

http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/how-to-succeed-at-air-drying-lumber/

George over at Woodworker's Guild of America did a bunch of very useful videos on lumber/drying/etc:

http://www.wwgoa.com/video/000238_cutting-lumber-from-logs/

http://www.wwgoa.com/video/000268_how-to-plain-saw-logs-into-lumber/

http://www.wwgoa.com/video/000212_air-drying-fresh-cut-lumber/

Also, if you don't want to wait as long, you can build a solar kiln, which I swear I'm going to try someday.

http://www.wwgoa.com/video/000326_solar-kiln-basics/


Hope that helps and best of luck!

u/pictocube · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Yeah I forgot to mention push sticks. Generally I will use one if the rip is under 5" or so.

This is a good design: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/favorite-table-saw-push-stick

This is even better but expensive: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Advanced-Pushblock-Jointer-MICROJIG/dp/B0037MEJ2I

Truly there are many important things to remember as far as safety goes. I definitely recommend watching videos. A

u/renz45 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

The gearbox one is much harder to rehab because of that gearbox, but it's a nicer saw and likely has the larger motor. :) I did see a few walkthroughs of it though, same idea take it all apart clean it and hopefully remember how it goes together. I did stumble on this when I was doing the initial research:

http://blog.heliumware.com/category/projects/bandsaw-restoration/

Looks to be the wood metal saw :) As always the people over at http://owwm.org/ are helpful if you get stuck or run into an issue as well.

I used these tires: https://www.amazon.com/URETHANE-BAND-TIRES-WIDE-DIAMETER/dp/B000H69UKI/ref=sr_1_1

I only replaced the small pulley since I damaged it pulling it off the shaft. I just got it from the local tractor supply store.

u/InstagramLincoln · 2 pointsr/Scrollsaw

I'm a little late in responding to this but congrats! I love my DeWalt.

The one accessory I bought is a lifter arm. It locks the scroll saw arm in the up position between cuts which makes it much easier to transition during fretwork. Not at all a necessity, but if you're ever wanting a small improvement, it might be worth looking into. Cheers!

u/joelav · 7 pointsr/woodworking

Zero clearance insert

Dado zero clearance insert

That dado stack is decent. Not great, but OK. This one is a lot better and the best bargain dado stack

Irwin Marples 50 tooth blade. Lowes sells these if you don't want to order online. I have a few dozen table saw blades. This is by far the best blade short of a Woodworker II or Tenryu Gold Medal.

If you plan on working with 5/4+ hardwoods, get a 24 tooth diablo rip blade. It makes a big difference

Start with one GR Rripper

if you don't have a dial indicator, get one. You'll need it to adjust for runout

Decide on dust collection. You'll need to install the shroud if you use it, or leave it off if you don't. It's a huge pain in the ass to install after the fact, but can be done. A shop vac isn't recommended, but if you decide to give it a shot, you'll need a 4" to 2.5" reducer. Something like this will keep up pretty well if you just wanted to bite the bullet.

Decide how you are going to cross cut. I prefer a sled, some like a miter gauge. The included one sucks.

Osborne EB3 or the Incra 1000/HD

u/abastage · 2 pointsr/DIY

Decent circular saw & a track saw kit like this https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2700-Circular-Saw-Track/dp/B073PGP96S

​

It'll allow you the versatility of the circular saw & still have the ability to make long straight cuts like a table saw with much less space used for storage. When working alone its also much easier to move your saw over full sheets to rip them down then it is to move a full sheet across a table saw when you dont have a proper outfeed table.

​

Edit: you can also check youtube for how too's on building your own circular saw rip fence pretty easy & cheaply to achieve nearly perfect long straight cuts as well.

u/MidnightCreative · 3 pointsr/DungeonsAndDragons

Sharp pencil and metal ruler, maybe a triangle ruler too. And draw out a plan first with measurements.

A mitre saw set like this is super useful for cutting 45 degree angles.

Good wood glue (I like Gorilla glue personally).

You need to keep pressure on corners when you're glueing up. Masking tape is a good, cheap option, and this video gives a pretty good tutorial on how to do it.
But if you don't mind spending the money then this thing is literally built for the job.

Sandpaper. Low grit for taking a lot of material off quickly, high grit for a nice smooth finish.

How you actually want to finish it off is up to you, between paint, lacquer, wax, etc. For these boxes I used a premixed beeswax/turpentine rubbed in with a cloth.

Most important thing this is to take your time. Measure twice, cut once.

u/TomServoHere · 6 pointsr/woodworking

Yeah, I replaced mine with a tension rod crank and it made huge difference in accuracy and day to day operations. The crank makes adjustments easy as well as facilitating removing tension from the blade when not in use.

I too picked up an old Delta bandsaw that wasn’t working for a song. Put about $200 into it (tension rod, spring, tires, bearings, wiring, safety switch, blades and a Kreg fence) and it’s now a joy to use.

I love woodworking, but I also very much enjoy restoring and modernizing old tools.

u/StairwaytoHavana · 1 pointr/woodworking

I bought my saw on Craigslist and it was missing the factory stamped steel extension wings. I looked at replacement wings, and at $60 each I figured I could find something better.




These Sawstop wings are only a little more expensive and there was a review that said they could be modified. The new wings have a four hole pattern and the R4512 has 3. None of the holes line up and they are different sizes. I opted to drill and tap new holes in the R4512 as the 3 holes did not line up well on the new wings.


I used a 17/64th bit to drill the holes. I only had an SAE tap set, so I actually used 5/16th SAE tap with the M8 1.25 bolts supplied by Sawstop. The bolts fit in these threads perfectly. The left side of the saw is much more difficult to install because of the motor housing.


The Sawstop wings are almost the exact same length as the R4512. The bevel on the front is different from the saw, but it doesn't bother me. I'm hoping this will make the saw more stable and is a step up from the stamped steel wings.


Underside for anyone interested: http://imgur.com/gPZjvBP


I was also able to mount my crosscut sled on the side: http://imgur.com/xnhQACv

u/Werdxberd · 1 pointr/woodworking

There are a lot of people, so common, basic knowledge I guess, that say drift is just a natural thing with regards to bandsaws.

People have come up with jigs and specialized pivot point fences (example 1, example 2) and there's a whole thread about it here on Reddit [which might be why this thread is no longer visible on r/woodworking ???].

Anyway, it is (or at least was when I was learning) pretty basic, standard technique or way of teaching how to use a bandsaw for newbies. Different bandsaws (especially older ones I guess) are harder to set up to minimize or eliminate drift. Everything from, like I said previously, special fences and jigs to blade guides, tires for wheels, and even riving pins (bandsaw equivalent of a riving knife on a table saw) have been made and sold to help "deal" with it. It's like a cottage industry or something.

u/chippedbeefontoast · 1 pointr/woodworking

It doesn't replace a table saw, but for sheet goods, you won't regret it. I've had one for several months now and I love it. The upside is that you won't need an out-feed table or a second pair of hands to cut sheet goods. Just make one of these and you're good to go. The one I made comes apart for storage and transport. Makita also makes an attachment for their routers that can use the tracks for dados. I have this one. Here's the adapter that allows the router to use the track.

u/oldneckbeard · 1 pointr/DIY

Circular saw all the way. You can get a good Makita for ~100 bucks and it should last you at least a decade. It really is BIFL quality if you're not a pro. You don't need the magnesium or worm-drive if you're just starting out. I highly recommend getting a plug-in saw, as even with powerful batteries I've had bogging issues with battery-powered circular saws.

From a circular saw you can cut your planks, square edges, make rip and cross cuts, etc. Even having a table saw and jig saw, I still use my circular saw quite frequently. Especially with something like a speed square or This little guy from BenchDog you can get pretty darn great cuts with the circular saw.

When you get to the point of needing curves or whatever, then you can add a jigsaw. But truth be told, I almost never use mine. The table saw and a hand saw are the only other two saws I use as much as my circular, with my bandsaw coming in a distant 4th. Most places I'd use a jijgsaw, I instead use a bandsaw to hog off most of the waste, then take it to a stationary belt/disc sander to sneak up to the lines.

u/bad_blood01 · 1 pointr/woodworking

I have the 5100 and bought the dado insert off amazon. It looks like yours uses a different model, but this looks right for yours.
I use the Freud 8 in stack and your saw looks like it also takes 8 in diameter. That set is great.

u/IndubitablyRong · 1 pointr/woodworking

I have the hold down attachment for my larger one and I really like it. It was quick to set up and worked perfect. It looks like the magnets that come with the one you linked to are the good ones, 150 lbs of holding power. If you are thinking of making jigs, that would be the way to go. Much cheaper than getting the magnets individually after the fact.

u/Nellisir · 1 pointr/woodworking

OK, yeah, it looks like there are at least two available through Amazon. I like the Leecraft one; has a cutout for a riving knife and well-reviewed. Pricier but worth it. :)

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Series-Table-Zero-Clearance-Insert/dp/B0077LMMHE/ref=pd_cp_hi_1

u/AlliedMasterComp · 1 pointr/woodworking

Just buy the paint from General.

http://www.general.ca/accessories/acc_universal/a_GP-002.html

Don't bother with the Shopfox Classic fence. You're Canadian (I'm assuming, what with the table saw from an Edmonton tool-house). It's an import fence that's only sold by grizzly, so it's pretty overpriced with the current Canadian dollar ($450).

And as for the Biesemeyer...look at these stunning reviews on the new model(https://www.amazon.ca/Delta-78-919BT2-BIESEMEYER-Fence-Black/dp/B00CUIZNZC/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499906671&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=Bisemeyer+fence). Note that this price does not included the rails.

The new General International Fences are pretty good, pre-shit Biesemeyer, clones. You'll have to email for pricing information though.

http://www.general.ca/accessories/acc_tablesaw/a_t-fence.html


If you're near a Busybee, you can phone and see if the store's have any of the "Align-A-Rip" fences in stock still. They're the same as the old Grizzly Aluma Classic fences. I have a craftex an old import cabinet, it does the job well enough after the setscrews that were supposed to come with it were ordered. It also comes in black for cheaper


The quality of aftermarket table saws has taken a nose dive in the past 10-15 years.

u/twentyfourfifty · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I was in a similar spot and opted for the G0555P due to both budget and space issues. I did add the riser and don't have any rigidity issues - the riser is a heavy duty cast chunk of material and bolts tightly. Glad I did - the extra room really helps. I added a Kreg bandsaw fence that I can adjust for drift and a resaw guide, which was a HUGE improvement over the cracker jack fence it comes with. I also added this fancy aftermarket modification to keep from gumming up the tires.

Edit: with a quality blade I haven't had any problems with power on the G0555P when resawing hard maple and mahogany. The blade it comes with is junk after very limited use.

u/paraboloid · 1 pointr/woodworking

These may help to get a better grip on smaller pieces. Learning with something big like a piece of 4x4, slowly, may allow you to learn the action of the router without worrying so much about holding it timidly. Small shallow passes makes a huge difference too. Less wood to grab and try to cut through. Try with the cutting part of the bit just barely off the table. Make a run see how it handles and then bring the bit up more. https://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-Tools-10-033-Push-Bloc/dp/B005HH1B9K

u/dstutz · 1 pointr/woodworking

Costs as much as the saw :)

Incra TS-LS