(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best power tool saw accessories
We found 212 Reddit comments discussing the best power tool saw accessories. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 94 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
21. Rousseau 2780 Table Saw Stand for Smaller Portable Saws (REPLACES: Rousseau Models 2745 and 2700-XL)
Fits Smaller Portable Saws: Dewalt DWE 7480, DW745, Bosch GTS1031, Skil SPT70WT-22, Makita 2703Increase rip capacity to 27”Includes T-Style locking fence for accuracyMicro Adjust Assembly for Quick & Accurate Saw PositioningOptional accessories include: Model 2720 Outfeed Table, Model 2780-EXT Ext...
Specs:
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 50 Inches |
Weight | 57 Pounds |
Width | 29 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
22. Haddon Lumbermaker
- Cut any size lumber you need right where the tree falls, use for a cut off saw,
- Make boards, beams, planks, and more with your chain saw and this inexpensive tool!
- The HADDON LUMBERMAKER fits all chain saws, & attaches to the bar in seconds.
- MADE IN THE USA, includes 30 page "how to" owners manual, fits 2x4 or 2x6 guide board
- Works with regular chain, saw swivels for PLUNG cuts, has a LIFETIME GUARANTEE!!!
Features:
Specs:
Color | Gold |
Height | 8 Inches |
Length | 8 Inches |
Width | 3 Inches |
Size | Full Size |
23. GRR-RIPPER Advanced 3D Pushblock for Table Saw, Router Table, Jointer, and Band Saw by MICROJIG
- GR-200 Features Include: 3-Directional Force for total control of the workpiece and virtually eliminate kickback
- Moving-Blade-Guard Hand protection.Cutting Range (Table Saws):1/4 to 5 inch
- Precise 1/4" thin rips
- Stabilizes for cutting bevel rips, resawing, irregular-shaped stock, dowels, dados and more
- Made in the USA. A true MICROJIG Innovation.:
Features:
Specs:
Color | Yellow |
Height | 4.65 Inches |
Length | 8 Inches |
Weight | 2.4 Pounds |
Width | 5.5 Inches |
Size | 1 Pack |
Number of items | 1 |
24. Sulpher Grove Tool Urethane Band Saw Tires 1 Inch Wide by 14 Inch Diameter
Heavy Duty set of 2 urethane tires..095 thick urethane tires
Specs:
Height | 3.4 Inches |
Length | 5.9 Inches |
Width | 5.3 Inches |
25. LEECRAFT RIDGID R4512 Table Saw Zero-Clearance Dado Insert
- 15-1/8" x 3-3/4" x 1/8"
- Fits RIDGID R4512 Professional Table Saw
- Zero-Clearance dado insert with no riving knife slot
- Durable phenolic construction
- Coated surface for friction free operation
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.1 Inches |
Length | 15.5 Inches |
Weight | 1.04 Pounds |
Width | 4.7 Inches |
26. Circular Saw Track (Circular Saw Track)
Rip, crosscut, and make angled cuts up to 50" Long in plywood, MDF, and panelsSimply align the guide Track with your marks to make accurate cutsHold track in place without clamps thanks to anti-slip guide stripsPrevent splintering with anti-chip strips that support material during the cutBegin cuts ...
Specs:
Height | 2.5 Inches |
Length | 27.5 Inches |
Weight | 5.05 Pounds |
Width | 8.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
27. INCRA LS32-TS TS-LS Table Saw Fence 32-Inch Range
- Incrementally positioned carriage provides accuracy to .002" and perfect repeatability
- Five sliding scale template channels
- Easy On, Easy Off for cross-cutting operations and remounts in less than 10 seconds.
- Fence glides eliminate all fence to table contact for a velvet smooth slide to your next cut
- Universal mounting brackets virtually guarantee compatibility with any 10" table saw, with no drilling, tapping or modifications.
Features:
Specs:
Size | 32-Inch |
Number of items | 1 |
28. Stanley 1-20-600 Saw Storage Miter Box with Saw, Black
- 90°, 45° and 22.5° slots
- 11.81in length with a patented storage system for the saw
- Material: aluminum
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 3.98 Inches |
Length | 19.29 Inches |
Weight | 2.2707612986 Pounds |
Width | 6.85 Inches |
Size | With Saw |
Number of items | 1 |
29. Big Horn 14330 Band Saw Tension Crank
- Converts most 14" band saw tension screws to a faster, easily adjusted crank handle
- Hardware and instructions included
- Turn most 14" band saw tension screws into a crank handle
- Hardware and instructions included
- Specifications: | Thread: 3/8-16" | Shaft Thickness: 3/8" / 9.5mm
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.7 Inches |
Length | 13.2 Inches |
Weight | 0.75 Pounds |
Width | 4.1 Inches |
30. SAWSTOP Cast Iron Wing Assembly (pair)
Specs:
Weight | 0.01 Pounds |
Number of items | 1 |
31. Bench Dog Tools 10-033 Push-Bloc Push Pad
- Ergonomically-correct handle
- Non-marring rubber bottom uses the same high-friction rubber surface found on our Patent Pending Bench Cookie Work Grippers
- Gives you maximum control while routing, jointing, and ripping
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 4 Inches |
Length | 7.75 Inches |
Weight | 0.85 Pounds |
Width | 3.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
32. Magswitch Resaw Guide
- The Magswitch Resaw Guide is ideal for resawing on band saws, an oscillating spindle sander, or a disc sander; and for infeed/outfeed support. It's easy to set up anywhere on a steel table or cast iron fence
- This ball-bearing based resaw fence guide allows wood to flow more smoothly through the blade, and is low profile enough for use on your smallest tables
- This resaw guide is angled to allow for blade drift, which also makes it perfect for outfeed work support
- The Magswitch Resaw Guide mounts to the Universal Mounting Base and MagJigs (sold separately)
- Includes all required attachment hardware and micro adjustment for fine tuning to 90 degrees
- For use with the Magswitch Universal Base and MagJigs
- Includes micro adjustment for fine tuning to 90 degrees.
- Versatile attachment tool for re-sawing on band saws, oscillating spindle sander, or disc sander; and for in-feed/out-feed support.
- Built from strong and durable ABS UL94VO material for years of use.
- Low profile design for use on your smallest tables
Features:
Specs:
Color | Yellow |
Height | 4 Inches |
Length | 8.5 Inches |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
33. Makita 194579-2 Router Guide Rail Adapter
Router Guide Rail AdapterHeavy duty, quality construction194579-2
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 10.5118110129 Inches |
Length | 2.5196850368 Inches |
Weight | 2.10100535686 Pounds |
Width | 3.3070866108 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
34. Bench Dog 10-019 ProCut Portable Circular Saw Crosscut Guide
- Instantly aligns your saw to the cut line
- Reduces dangerous kickback, binding, and bent blades
- 45/90° layout square
- Helps prevent tear-out
- Prevents your saw from scratching your work
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 14 Inches |
Weight | 0.88125 Pounds |
Width | 13 Inches |
35. Delta, 36-511, 6000 series Zero Clearance Throat Plate
- Color is red
- Secures to the saw table for safe operation
- Made from steel
- Country of Origin:Taiwan
- Fits the following models : 36-6010, 36-6020, 36-6022. Doesn't fit 36-6013 or 36-6023.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 12 Inches |
Weight | 0.95 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
36. Magswitch Vertical Featherboard Attachment
- -The Vertical Featherboard Attachment acts like three tools in one and is suitable for use on table saws, jointer tables, band saws, shaper tables and any other ferromagnetic woodworking apparatus.
- -When used with the Magswitch Pro Featherboard, the vertical attachment can be mounted in a vertical position from the top for pressure down on the material at the same time the horizontal featherboard is holding the material against the fence.
- -SAFETY: When setup in the stacked position using the risers, you get dual featherboard hold on the same horizontal plane which is ideal for tall material and added protection against kickbacks on vertical and horizontal planes.
- -FEATURES: Quick, easy setup anywhere on a steel table or cast iron fence, with a magnetic onoff switch for safe and precise positioning.
- -MAGSWITCH WORKHOLDING SYSTEM: The Vertical Featherboard attachment mounts to the Reversible Featherboard Attachment, Universal Mounting Base and Magjigs (each sold separately).
- Vertical hold down for added safety against kick back
- Use in either vertical or horizontal position for superior workholding.
- Built from strong and durable ABS UL94VO material for years of use.
- Versatile attachment tool which can be tailored to your own uses.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Yellow |
Height | 0.75 Inches |
Length | 7.9 Inches |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
37. Leecraft BH-1 Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert for 4000 and 4100 Table Saw (Colors may Vary)
Fits 4100/4000 series jobsite table saws 13-9/16" x 3-3/4" x 7/16" thick with riving knife slot
38. Shop Fox W1720 Aluma-Classic Fence with Long Rails
- Steel and aluminum fence body; Adjustable fence wear pads; Magnified cursor lens; Easy single locking cam action lever
- Long 79-Inch rails provide 50-Inch maximum rip capacity to the right of the blade
- Wide right angle design for maximum accuracy and support
- Fits most table saws easily
Features:
Specs:
Height | 11.5 Inches |
Length | 80.5 Inches |
Weight | 21.2 Pounds |
Width | 17 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
39. Papa's Workshop The Scroll Saw Lifter - for The Dewalt 788 and Delta 40-690 Scroll Saws
- NOTE: SCROLL SAW NOT INCLUDED with the LIFTER.
- NOTE: The Lifter will NOT work on the Delta 40-694 scroll saw.
- Designed to last the life of your Dewalt or Delta Scroll Saw
- Note: All Lifters ship via USPS Priority Mail and arrive in US locations in about 3-5 days.
- Easy to install and to use - one hand operation - makes your scrolling easier and more fun.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 0.75 Inches |
Length | 15.25 Inches |
Weight | 0.625 Pounds |
Width | 0.13 Inches |
Size | full size |
40. Kreg KMS7214 7-Inch Resaw Guide
- Gives you added control while using band saws
- Curved face helps you steer boards into the cut
- 7 inches high
Features:
Specs:
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 9 Inches |
Weight | 0.94 Pounds |
Width | 1.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
🎓 Reddit experts on power tool saw accessories
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where power tool saw accessories are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Makita corded orbital sander for sure, any good 10" portable table saw such as Dewalt 745 or Skilsaw SPT70WT-22 that can later fit into one of these, and a Dewalt 734 planer if you really think you need one.
On a budget, a jointer can probably wait. Most of the things you listed as wanting to build won't need it. You'll get a lot more use out of a router early on, and as a bonus a good router costs a lot less than a jointer, and they take up a lot less space. Milwaukee, Dewalt, Bosch, Makita, Rigid, Porter Cable and others all make good routers. Routers generally come in two sizes, standard and compact (aka palm or trim) size. I have a standard size Milwaukee 5615, and it works great. I'm planning on getting the Dewalt DWP611pk for my compact, mainly because it's a highly regarded router, and it comes with a plunge base.
You might consider, instead of getting a table saw, getting a good circular saw and using a guide to do your rip cuts. You can get a Skilsaw SPT77WML-22, a really long ruler and a couple of quick clamps and make cuts just as accurate as any table saw, though it takes a lot more setup for each cut. You don't even need the heavy-duty Skilsaw (I sometimes do this with my baby sized Milwaukee M12 circular saw) but getting a good, big saw now will save you from having to get something more capable later.
If you're serious about getting into woodworking or carpentry, do yourself a favor and get better tools. Ryobi is ok if you're only going to use it once a year, maybe (I understand quality has gone up recently, but still...). Even then I wouldn't trust the accuracy much.
If $500 really is a hard limit, I would focus on getting a circular saw, a router, a sander, some good measuring/marking tools and a crapton of clamps. As many clamps as you can get, big clamps, pipe clamps, quick clamps, right-angle clamps, belt clamps, everything. You will never have too many clamps. However many clamps you have divided by about 4 is the number of things you can have gluing together at once. Get lots of clamps.
Edit: be sure to have some money set aside for good saw blades. Finish-quality saw blades can be $50-100 just for the blade.
There are many ways to do this, but here's what I'd do: Grab one of these things (or a similar system that attaches to your chainsaw that lets you cut straight lines in logs) and cut them into slabs. I would probably shoot to make the slabs around 4/4, or 1" thick. Once it's dried and milled, this will yield a finished thickness of 3/4". Even if you plan to resaw it down to a thinner final size (for your boxes and such) I'd still dry it as 4/4. Personally, I've had a lot of trouble drying anything thinner than that.
Paint the ends of the pieces with Anchorseal (or even latex paint) to prevent checking. Find a covered dry spot that gets a decent amount of airflow (somewhere you won't miss the space for a year, I use the back of my open carport) and stack up the pieces with stickers (pieces of wood longer than the width of your slabs, cut to say 1" square) between them. Opinions vary on how far apart to place the stickers, I generally go 18". Line the stickers up. Place something heavy (cinder blocks, bricks, etc.) on top of the pile (over wherever the stickers are) to weigh it down and keep it from warping too much. I've also heard of people skipping weights in favor of ratchet tie-downs, but I've never tried this.
Drying time will vary widely depending on climate type of wood, how dry it already is, etc, but plan on a few months to a year before milling.
If this sounds like a fiddly process, well, it is, but it's not super difficult once you get the process down, and you can save a boatload of money versus buying finished lumber.
There's lots of resources online for how to mill/stack/dry lumber. Here's a few I pulled from my bookmarks:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/how-to-succeed-at-air-drying-lumber/
George over at Woodworker's Guild of America did a bunch of very useful videos on lumber/drying/etc:
http://www.wwgoa.com/video/000238_cutting-lumber-from-logs/
http://www.wwgoa.com/video/000268_how-to-plain-saw-logs-into-lumber/
http://www.wwgoa.com/video/000212_air-drying-fresh-cut-lumber/
Also, if you don't want to wait as long, you can build a solar kiln, which I swear I'm going to try someday.
http://www.wwgoa.com/video/000326_solar-kiln-basics/
Hope that helps and best of luck!
Yeah I forgot to mention push sticks. Generally I will use one if the rip is under 5" or so.
This is a good design: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/favorite-table-saw-push-stick
This is even better but expensive: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Advanced-Pushblock-Jointer-MICROJIG/dp/B0037MEJ2I
Truly there are many important things to remember as far as safety goes. I definitely recommend watching videos. A
The gearbox one is much harder to rehab because of that gearbox, but it's a nicer saw and likely has the larger motor. :) I did see a few walkthroughs of it though, same idea take it all apart clean it and hopefully remember how it goes together. I did stumble on this when I was doing the initial research:
http://blog.heliumware.com/category/projects/bandsaw-restoration/
Looks to be the wood metal saw :) As always the people over at http://owwm.org/ are helpful if you get stuck or run into an issue as well.
I used these tires: https://www.amazon.com/URETHANE-BAND-TIRES-WIDE-DIAMETER/dp/B000H69UKI/ref=sr_1_1
I only replaced the small pulley since I damaged it pulling it off the shaft. I just got it from the local tractor supply store.
I'm a little late in responding to this but congrats! I love my DeWalt.
The one accessory I bought is a lifter arm. It locks the scroll saw arm in the up position between cuts which makes it much easier to transition during fretwork. Not at all a necessity, but if you're ever wanting a small improvement, it might be worth looking into. Cheers!
Zero clearance insert
Dado zero clearance insert
That dado stack is decent. Not great, but OK. This one is a lot better and the best bargain dado stack
Irwin Marples 50 tooth blade. Lowes sells these if you don't want to order online. I have a few dozen table saw blades. This is by far the best blade short of a Woodworker II or Tenryu Gold Medal.
If you plan on working with 5/4+ hardwoods, get a 24 tooth diablo rip blade. It makes a big difference
Start with one GR Rripper
if you don't have a dial indicator, get one. You'll need it to adjust for runout
Decide on dust collection. You'll need to install the shroud if you use it, or leave it off if you don't. It's a huge pain in the ass to install after the fact, but can be done. A shop vac isn't recommended, but if you decide to give it a shot, you'll need a 4" to 2.5" reducer. Something like this will keep up pretty well if you just wanted to bite the bullet.
Decide how you are going to cross cut. I prefer a sled, some like a miter gauge. The included one sucks.
Osborne EB3 or the Incra 1000/HD
Decent circular saw & a track saw kit like this https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2700-Circular-Saw-Track/dp/B073PGP96S
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It'll allow you the versatility of the circular saw & still have the ability to make long straight cuts like a table saw with much less space used for storage. When working alone its also much easier to move your saw over full sheets to rip them down then it is to move a full sheet across a table saw when you dont have a proper outfeed table.
​
Edit: you can also check youtube for how too's on building your own circular saw rip fence pretty easy & cheaply to achieve nearly perfect long straight cuts as well.
Sharp pencil and metal ruler, maybe a triangle ruler too. And draw out a plan first with measurements.
A mitre saw set like this is super useful for cutting 45 degree angles.
Good wood glue (I like Gorilla glue personally).
You need to keep pressure on corners when you're glueing up. Masking tape is a good, cheap option, and this video gives a pretty good tutorial on how to do it.
But if you don't mind spending the money then this thing is literally built for the job.
Sandpaper. Low grit for taking a lot of material off quickly, high grit for a nice smooth finish.
How you actually want to finish it off is up to you, between paint, lacquer, wax, etc. For these boxes I used a premixed beeswax/turpentine rubbed in with a cloth.
Most important thing this is to take your time. Measure twice, cut once.
Yeah, I replaced mine with a tension rod crank and it made huge difference in accuracy and day to day operations. The crank makes adjustments easy as well as facilitating removing tension from the blade when not in use.
I too picked up an old Delta bandsaw that wasn’t working for a song. Put about $200 into it (tension rod, spring, tires, bearings, wiring, safety switch, blades and a Kreg fence) and it’s now a joy to use.
I love woodworking, but I also very much enjoy restoring and modernizing old tools.
I bought my saw on Craigslist and it was missing the factory stamped steel extension wings. I looked at replacement wings, and at $60 each I figured I could find something better.
These Sawstop wings are only a little more expensive and there was a review that said they could be modified. The new wings have a four hole pattern and the R4512 has 3. None of the holes line up and they are different sizes. I opted to drill and tap new holes in the R4512 as the 3 holes did not line up well on the new wings.
I used a 17/64th bit to drill the holes. I only had an SAE tap set, so I actually used 5/16th SAE tap with the M8 1.25 bolts supplied by Sawstop. The bolts fit in these threads perfectly. The left side of the saw is much more difficult to install because of the motor housing.
The Sawstop wings are almost the exact same length as the R4512. The bevel on the front is different from the saw, but it doesn't bother me. I'm hoping this will make the saw more stable and is a step up from the stamped steel wings.
Underside for anyone interested: http://imgur.com/gPZjvBP
I was also able to mount my crosscut sled on the side: http://imgur.com/xnhQACv
There are a lot of people, so common, basic knowledge I guess, that say drift is just a natural thing with regards to bandsaws.
People have come up with jigs and specialized pivot point fences (example 1, example 2) and there's a whole thread about it here on Reddit [which might be why this thread is no longer visible on r/woodworking ???].
Anyway, it is (or at least was when I was learning) pretty basic, standard technique or way of teaching how to use a bandsaw for newbies. Different bandsaws (especially older ones I guess) are harder to set up to minimize or eliminate drift. Everything from, like I said previously, special fences and jigs to blade guides, tires for wheels, and even riving pins (bandsaw equivalent of a riving knife on a table saw) have been made and sold to help "deal" with it. It's like a cottage industry or something.
It doesn't replace a table saw, but for sheet goods, you won't regret it. I've had one for several months now and I love it. The upside is that you won't need an out-feed table or a second pair of hands to cut sheet goods. Just make one of these and you're good to go. The one I made comes apart for storage and transport. Makita also makes an attachment for their routers that can use the tracks for dados. I have this one. Here's the adapter that allows the router to use the track.
Circular saw all the way. You can get a good Makita for ~100 bucks and it should last you at least a decade. It really is BIFL quality if you're not a pro. You don't need the magnesium or worm-drive if you're just starting out. I highly recommend getting a plug-in saw, as even with powerful batteries I've had bogging issues with battery-powered circular saws.
From a circular saw you can cut your planks, square edges, make rip and cross cuts, etc. Even having a table saw and jig saw, I still use my circular saw quite frequently. Especially with something like a speed square or This little guy from BenchDog you can get pretty darn great cuts with the circular saw.
When you get to the point of needing curves or whatever, then you can add a jigsaw. But truth be told, I almost never use mine. The table saw and a hand saw are the only other two saws I use as much as my circular, with my bandsaw coming in a distant 4th. Most places I'd use a jijgsaw, I instead use a bandsaw to hog off most of the waste, then take it to a stationary belt/disc sander to sneak up to the lines.
I have the 5100 and bought the dado insert off amazon. It looks like yours uses a different model, but this looks right for yours.
I use the Freud 8 in stack and your saw looks like it also takes 8 in diameter. That set is great.
I have the hold down attachment for my larger one and I really like it. It was quick to set up and worked perfect. It looks like the magnets that come with the one you linked to are the good ones, 150 lbs of holding power. If you are thinking of making jigs, that would be the way to go. Much cheaper than getting the magnets individually after the fact.
OK, yeah, it looks like there are at least two available through Amazon. I like the Leecraft one; has a cutout for a riving knife and well-reviewed. Pricier but worth it. :)
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Series-Table-Zero-Clearance-Insert/dp/B0077LMMHE/ref=pd_cp_hi_1
Just buy the paint from General.
http://www.general.ca/accessories/acc_universal/a_GP-002.html
Don't bother with the Shopfox Classic fence. You're Canadian (I'm assuming, what with the table saw from an Edmonton tool-house). It's an import fence that's only sold by grizzly, so it's pretty overpriced with the current Canadian dollar ($450).
And as for the Biesemeyer...look at these stunning reviews on the new model(https://www.amazon.ca/Delta-78-919BT2-BIESEMEYER-Fence-Black/dp/B00CUIZNZC/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499906671&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=Bisemeyer+fence). Note that this price does not included the rails.
The new General International Fences are pretty good, pre-shit Biesemeyer, clones. You'll have to email for pricing information though.
http://www.general.ca/accessories/acc_tablesaw/a_t-fence.html
If you're near a Busybee, you can phone and see if the store's have any of the "Align-A-Rip" fences in stock still. They're the same as the old Grizzly Aluma Classic fences. I have a craftex an old import cabinet, it does the job well enough after the setscrews that were supposed to come with it were ordered. It also comes in black for cheaper
The quality of aftermarket table saws has taken a nose dive in the past 10-15 years.
I was in a similar spot and opted for the G0555P due to both budget and space issues. I did add the riser and don't have any rigidity issues - the riser is a heavy duty cast chunk of material and bolts tightly. Glad I did - the extra room really helps. I added a Kreg bandsaw fence that I can adjust for drift and a resaw guide, which was a HUGE improvement over the cracker jack fence it comes with. I also added this fancy aftermarket modification to keep from gumming up the tires.
Edit: with a quality blade I haven't had any problems with power on the G0555P when resawing hard maple and mahogany. The blade it comes with is junk after very limited use.
These may help to get a better grip on smaller pieces. Learning with something big like a piece of 4x4, slowly, may allow you to learn the action of the router without worrying so much about holding it timidly. Small shallow passes makes a huge difference too. Less wood to grab and try to cut through. Try with the cutting part of the bit just barely off the table. Make a run see how it handles and then bring the bit up more. https://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-Tools-10-033-Push-Bloc/dp/B005HH1B9K
Costs as much as the saw :)
Incra TS-LS
https://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-Tools-10-033-Push-Bloc/dp/B005HH1B9K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501446368&sr=8-1&keywords=jointer+paddles
Push blocks I guess, just didn't realize they were called that.