Reddit mentions: The best power tools

A good drill is key. It's silly to stick to one brand (many people have the bs brand loyalty fetish and I'm not sure why). You'll also want to get a variety of drill bits to go with drill. Go to garage sales and start hoarding nails, screws, etc at cheap prices.

My recommendations below are based on at least 5 hours of research and shopping around. There are some things I'd probably add to the list (like a hand saw and dremel) but this takes care of a lot of your big needs. I own everything on the list and am pleased with it all, especially in terms of a performance for value ratio.

The key is know what you want then shop around / wait for the best prices (track prices in spreadsheet). Use google shopping to compare prices and see who price matches plus has best ebates or Ibotta cash back % + consider buying gift cards at a discount on Raise or elsewhere to further maximize savings (or just go with whatever credit card gets best points on particular site). Add Google Chrome app "Honey" to have coupon codes auto applied (eliminates time searching for them).

Also, I'd strongly consider getting a credit card with a decent bonus that will essentially help you get these items for free (assuming you can achieve the bonus spend with money you're already paying on existing bills / monthly purchases - it's a no-brainer in this case) - Chase's Sapphire Preferred is a good place to start ($500 bonus for 4K spend in 3 months)

Consider waiting until Black Friday (and from Jan to end of feb) for the good deals.

Drill (get a decent to really good one - you'll use it often)

• This one goes on sale for $99 on BF though you may be able to find it elsewhere for that price or cheaper now:
  
• Makita XPH102 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless 1/2" Hammer Driver-Drill Kit (3.0Ah): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L84A470/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Wv.BzbSZ9FGJH
  
  Circular Saw
  
• cordless is usually unnecessary - this one goes on sale for ~$70 on BF:
  
• Hitachi C7ST 15-Amp 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QESNMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vy.BzbT32M7T2
  
• honestly I haven't used this as much as a muti-tool but many DIY blogs say you need one... not sure I agree but it nice to know I have it
  
  Multi-tool
  
• This one goes on sale for ~$99 on BF - there are cheaper ones but I like this one a lot and it has a lot of power and attachments:
  
• Rockwell RK5151K 4.2 Amp Sonicrafter F80 Oscillating Multi-Tool with Duotech Oscillation Angle Technology and 10-Piece Accessory kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HD4EQTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EA.BzbQ9KM4AQ
  
  Miter saw
  
• I've used this more than circular saw - it's much more accurate and fast for most jobs - went back and forth about getting a saw with a larger blade but ultimately decided 10in is enough for most jobs and I've been correct in that assumption so far:
  
• Hitachi C10FCE2 15-Amp 10-inch Single Bevel Compound Miter Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V5Z6RG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UF.Bzb0CFWDHT
  
• paid ~$99 by buying on Jet and getting their 15% off first three orders + Ibotta 5% cash back
  
  Respirator
  
• may seem like overkill but don't fuck with your lungs: GVS SPR457 Elipse P100 Half Mask Respirator, Medium and Large
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SIIBFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HD.BzbREVSMX6
  
  Horse (the 'roided out version)
  
• this has come in really handy for me as it often helps to get stuff done without extra help:
  
• Rockwell JawHorse Portable Material Support Station – RK9003 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XRFQKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0E.Bzb9V02GJV
  
  Sander (makes a huge difference): I've seen it in the low $40 range
  
• DEWALT D26441 2.4 Amp 1/4 Sheet Palm Grip Sander with Cloth Dust Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009WRKUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wW.Bzb3CAWTZ9

Ow that's awesome!

Happy birthday already!

Great to hear that the RAM will be used! That really makes me happy.

I've seen your updated OP and my god, I get way too jealous, haha! This is going to be an amazing PC.

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Watercooling

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I have been looking at it in depth. You don't want to go with the 480mm in the top & 240mm in the bottom setup?
Here is a double 480mm build. Which does look pretty awesome as well.
Here is an other double 480mm build. This one is a bit messy, but just to show you how it will "look".

I would advise to buy the pretty expensive but probably very good & awesome looking window from MNPC tech.
I've send them a mail to question if a 480mm radiator will still fit in the bottom. I am very sure, but not entirely.
Just got a reply from MNPC tech and the 480mm radiator will fit no problem.

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As for the tubing, you mentioned that you want hard tubes. Would you perhaps like the extra step to go with glass?
The benefit of glass is that it's very scratch resistant & it stays very clear. It's also not that hard to "cut" but you need to take your time for it. It will take a full weekend for sure to completely watercool it. Or I would say, 2 days at least.
Here is a video that explains on how to cut glass tubes. But it also shows you and explains why you would perhaps want glass tubes.
As you can see at 3:23 the soft tubing got pretty damn clouded. I don't know how long this took, but I guess about a year+ for sure. Probably 2 years, not entirely sure.

When you do go for glass, it's recommended to actually set up the whole loop in plastic first. To get the exact lengths, since you can cut plastic a lot easier than glass. Then you can use the plastic parts as templates for the glass. This will cost you an other $50 extra, but it's mostly going to cost you time.
I will put the plastic in the list.

It's actually great that you'll get the case soon, because then you can measure up a lot of things that I need to know. So I can suggest the right parts! So be ready with a measuring tape.

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GTX1080s, cables & monitors

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GTX1080s:

Yes, getting 2 GTX1080s is going to be "rough". They sell out in a snap, so I highly recommend to make an account at this website:
https://www.nowinstock.net/computers/videocards/nvidia/gtx1080
Then you can get an email / SMS text notification for when parts come back in stock, so that you can order it very quickly. It sells out in less than 2 hours the last time a card came into the store on Amazon.
You can buy any "founders edition" card from any brand really. But EVGA & Asus are 2 that keep the warranty even when you put waterblocks on them. So I prefer those 2 brands, maybe MSI, Gigabyte, Zotac & other brands started to also keep the warranty if you put their cards under water. But I am not sure about that.
I highly recommend to be very careful about all the screws when you put on the waterblock. Just in case you have to send the card back for RMA. You need to have all the screws & the cooler.

Cables:

You have to tell me which color combination you would prefer. They have a lot of options from CableMods.

• Black / Blood Red
  
• Black / Blood Red / White
  
• Black / Blood Red / Silver
  
• Black / White
  
• Red / White
  
• Red
  
• Black
  
• White
  
  Then I have a better idea on how to pick out the colors for the rest of the components.
  
  

  Monitors:
  

  
  Ow yes, the monitors! I assume that you probably would prefer to have the same monitors all around? That would of course shoot your budget into the roof. If you do go for the Acer 1440p, 165Hz gaming monitor of $759. The LG 4K monitor that I recommended got a very sleek design as well, but it of course is a bit different compared to the Acer 1440p monitor.
  
  

  Other parts:
  

  
  I hope that you didn't buy that CPU for $549.99? But anyway, you want to buy a cheap after-market air cooler as well. Since the i7-6700K does not come with a cooler on it's own.
  You need this to test the system, before you put it under water, you have to make sure it works on air. Including a stress test for about 2-12 hours. Whatever you prefer. I generally let it stress test for 1 night. Which is about 8-10 hours.
  
  I will post my list with all the parts later tonight. I hope, but I have to tell you, that you should not order it right away. We have to do some measurements first!
  
  

  Measurements:
  

  
  I will make a paint drawing to show you exactly what I need to know in terms of all the measurements.
  
  

  Tools:
  

  
  

  I've also looked at some tools that you need to build the PC and to watercool it. But I have to ask you if you have certain tools already.
  

  There may be some other products I am forgetting about right now. Excuse me if I do!
  

  
  

  Item|Price
  

  ----|:----
  Magnetic screwdriver set | $20
  Set of files | $15
  Handsaw | $13
  Electronic drill | $50
  1/8" to 5/8" adapter chunk | $20
  Velcro straps | $8
  Anti static wrist strap | $5
  
  Working on the whole list now (again).
  
  ---
  
  #####Again, if you have any questions. Feel free to ask!
  
  
  
  
  

Hey man, I know what it's like to make videos and get knocked on. I'm actually an 11 year manufacturing engineer who's poured molten metal on an industrial level, hundreds of thousands of pounds worth. I've Programmed and ran CNC machines, cut metals, drill welding, worked with water tools, abrasive tools, etc.

I've been trained by my grandfather who's been pouring metal since the 50's and my father who's been doing it since the 70's. Along with another half dozen men who all have a minimum of 20 years experience in industrial manufacturing. I'm going to give you some practical advice on how you could drastically improve your safety.

 

• I saw your DIY foundry once, you used cement in the slurry mix. I hope to god you aren't leaving that thing outside. Actually I hope you never use that furnace ever again. Good move using the aquarium stuff but cement is literally the worst thing you can use for anything with a flame on it. Cement is porous, it will absorb moister. If that thing ever absorbs enough and you fire it up, it WILL explode. If you are lucky it will just crack and i know you'll probably reply, "well I've been using it for ....". Ok, that's fine but what my father taught me the first time i stepped foot in our shop, "Dzuari, all it takes to kill you IS once." Don't ever fuck with mother nature or machines, you will always lose.
  
  If you are still using that furnace, please throw it out and remake it so my grandfather can stop rolling in his grave. Use one of these materials;
  
  Fine Kiln dried lapis sand
  
  Silica Sand 6lbs
  
  2200deg Rutland castable cement Fire Clay
  
  25lbs Rutland castable cement
  
  Kaowool Insulation Blanket
  
  Your best bet is to use silica sand but it's typically more expensive, however it will last the longest. The refractory is really where the durability is. I'd experiment with different types, you could even try adding in fiberglass reinforcement which may increase durability. Oh and here is a K-type thermometer. You can buy some thermocouple leads and figure out the math to accurately measure your burn temperatures so you don't over oxides your metals.
  
  And honestly, if it was me, I'd remove that video and remake it. Someone will watch that video, go out and buy cement and one day it will explode on them. That's an extremely dangerous way to make a furnace.
  
   
  
  
• Electricity and water. You can easily make your videos a whole lot safer just by distancing your water source from the electrical components with something like this for your Dremel. Pretty much apply this methodology to anything that involves electricity and water. The farther your motor and 120v input is to the water source, the better. You can make a quick plexiglass cover to help seperate it, make an extension shaft so the cutting wheel is further distanced and always wear heavy duty, insulated rubber gloves.. Hell you could even make your own retrofit abrasive water cutter with simple motor and pulley system. Matthais Wandel has a great belt sander build that wouldn't be hard at all to make your own water/abrasive wheel setup.
  
  The way you set up that cuttoff wheel.... smh. Please don't do that. Also I'm sure you already read the comments but there are times when to wear gloves and when not to wear gloves. You need to use a vice or clamp any time you can if it means avoiding using gloves when using a high-speed cutter of any kind. Especially if it's a wheel. Again, it only takes once.
  
   
  
  
• General safety. You should really read every single MSDS sheet you get on anything you buy retail or salvage. I've seen you light stuff on fire with zero respiration protection or use things that should have been done on a downdraft table or you were wearing improper clothing. Some of the stuff you work with can really fuck you up and you blatantly did not know of it's harmfulness or willfully disregarded it.
  
   
  
  Overall man I like your videos but in my opinion of everyone DIY'er i watch on youtube, you are hands down the lease safe. I usually spot something you did wrong in every video you post. Whether you feel responsible for your viewers and what they do with the information you give them, is up to you. I just figured I'd give you some pragmatic advice from someone who does this stuff for a living. I actually did a few youtube videos about 6 years ago on my Channel over industrial level green sand. I'm planning on quitting my job within the next mont or two to start my own workshop/foundry/DIY/Youtube/website marketing thing from scratch. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll gladly answer them.
  
  Here's some random tips;
  
  
  Don't use pop can metal for anything structural. It's 3000's series aluminum and it's mades specifically to be malleable. Good rule of thumb for scrap metal is, if it came from something cheap, the metals cheap. The highest quality aluminum you can get for CASTING is automotive parts. Typically made from A356-T6, very good aluminum. I see a lot of guys metal down "Aircraft" or "Aerospace grade" aluminum for casting thinking it's going to be strong. It will not be, 6000 or 7000 series aluminum is all wrought/worked aluminum. It gets it's strength from massive presses that squeeze the metal into shape. Once you heat it up it looses all that strength.
  
  T6 heat treat is the most common treat process for aluminum. If you are making something structural, heat treatment will greatly increase it's strength. But you have to use the correct aluminum for or it can't be treated (Automotive parts/A356). The process is usually 8hrs at 800-1000F then either a quench/2hrs at 300F or age hardening. With that K type thermometer you can easily set up your furnace to heat treat. Also, most aluminum age hardens once poured, usually around 21 days.
  
  Please never wear shorts ever again when working with molten metal. It's not that it will burn your leg. It's that it will hit your leg, then fall into you shoe. Then you have a burning foot and a ladle of molten metal in your hand. I've done this with high top boots and jeans on. My father would fire my on the spot if he ever saw me pouring with shorts on. I saw a guy poure about 2lbs of aluminum into his boot once. 6 years later his still on disability. Please don't ever do it again.
  
  
  Random informational videos
  
  Metallugical nature of Aluminum and crystalizing structures
  
  Grain Structure of Metal
  
  Cold work vs Hot work metal. E.I. this is wrought metal like 3000, 6000 & 7000 series aluminum
  
  Cermaic Material for Furnace Insulation
  

I'm a professional carpenter and general contractor, and from my personal experience and the anecdotal evidence from the guys I regularly see, Bosch is of the best you can get for cordless tools nowadays. DeWalt used to be the go-to, but their quality has dropped considerably over the last 5-10 years. They still have some decent products, but I know of a lot of people who have had major issues with their drill chucks being off center.

This said, you kind of need a grab bag to get the best of each tool.

Here's my current setup, which is the same as quite a few contractors I work with:

• Bosch 18V impact driver/drill set. I've dropped my driver with a 6" bit attached directly onto the bit from 10' up, on concrete, and the entire thing was unscathed. Batteries last forever and charge very quickly.
  
  
• Festool jigsaw. Festool makes AMAZING products, but it's probably way overkill for most, and this Bosch model is a great second option I've seen used by many guys with a ton of success.
  
  
• Skil Mag 77 circular saw. This is the be all end all saw. It has enough torque to change the rotation of the earth. It's heavy, though, so a decent sidewinder might be your best bet. I would never use anything else, personally, though.
  
  
• Bosch compound sliding miter saw. I love this thing. You can put it flat up against a wall and still use the slider, which is a feature unique to them.
  
  
• DeWalt table saw. The major plus of this saw is that the rip fence is on a track, so both sides move together. I still never trust their gauges, but to know that both the front and back are equidistant from the blade 100% of the time is worth its weight in gold.
  
  
• DeWalt thickness planer. Never thought I'd buy one, and now I wouldn't be without one. With the combination of the above 3, you can pretty much make anything out of anything. Have a 5/4 board at the house but you need a 1x? 2 passes through the planer and you're set.
  
  
• Bosch Rotary Hammer. The demo master. It can hammer drill massive holes in concrete, or switch to hammer only mode to remove tile or glued on drywall particles. These are bulletproof.
  
  
• DeWalt orbital sander. Nothing fancy, as I don't do a ton of heavy sanding. Something to look for in these is the variable speed; makes jobs much easier.
  
  
• Bosch oscillating tool. Most brands are similar, and depending on your uses a corded model may be better. I have a second tool that uses these batteries so I have lots of backups (and they charge very quickly), and I often use it in places that running a cord would be a pain in the ass. This is great for trimming things that are immovable and can't be sawed: think door frame bottoms for new floors, baseboard trim to accommodate a new vent, drywall patching, anything. Love this thing.
  
  
• RotoZip spiral saw. Great for drywall, and there's a masonry style bit that works good for cutting pieces of tile (like around a faucet or control).
  
  
• Bosch planer. Again, nothing fancy and I definitely don't use it daily...but when you need a planer, there's not much else you can use.
  
  
  So there you go. Those are the ones that have gone through the ringer on a construction crew and have survived heavy abuse and regular moving/dropping without any signs of letting go. Some may be overkill for your situation, but they're what I've found to be best. I'm probably missing a few loose ends so look out for edits.

You can spend WAY less. For one, buy tools as you need them, not all at once. To address some of your tools, here is my input. For reference, I am a homeowner and hobbyist woodworker, not a pro.

Table Saw: That Jet is overpriced for what you get. If you want to spend that much, get a SawStop, if you want a comparable saw to the Jet for significantly less, look at the Grizzly G0771z. I have the older revision of this saw(g0771) and love it. https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-T-Shaped-Fence/G0771Z

Miter Saw: Ditch it. Anything you can do on it you can do on the table saw. Certain things are a bit easier on the miter saw like cutting molding, so if it is something you insist on, get a cheap one. You'll be surprised how little you use it.


Drill press: Can't beat free.


Router: Save yourself significant money but buying the Bosch 1617EVSPK. It is a combo plunge and fixed router(interchangeable bases) and is widely regarded as one of the best routers you can buy. https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Combination-Horsepower-Variable-1617EVSPK/dp/B00005RHPD

Router Table: That one is nice, but there are cheaper options, such as build your own with MDF or look for used on Craigslist. This is a nice one, but expensive.

Modular Table Base: Not sure what you have in mind, but if you can build it definitely do so.

Jet Clamps: Nothing wrong with those, but they are expensive and probably more than you need. Have a harbor freight near you? Their clamps are cheap and decent enough. For more heavy duty applications, get some pipe clamps.

Dewalt Planer: If you have a need for a planer, yes this is the one to get.

Delta Jointer: Don't bother. You probably don't have a need for a jointer right off the bat and when you do, don't bother with the tabletop models. They are very limited with what you can get straight due to the short beds. Get a floor standing one with long beds. 6 inch wide if you must, 8 inch if you have the means.

Jet dust collector: This is another area where Harbor Freight shines. Jet is overpriced. The HF 2 HP is a great buy, make sure to use a 20% off coupon. https://www.harborfreight.com/70-gal-2-hp-heavy-duty-high-flow-high-capacity-dust-collector-61790.html

Band Saw: Don't bother with a 10 inch, it will be seriously limited. With the money you are saving on the other tools above, up your budget and get a Laguna 14|12 or 14bx. If that is too much, look for an older used 14 inch delta. Those old ones require a bit of cleanup but are built like tanks and will last you forever. No matter which saw you get, throw out the blade that comes with it and buy a good one. The Highland Woodworking Woodslicer blades are nice value for the price: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx

Nail Guns: Do you really need a nailgun? And if you do, does it really need to be cordless? How much do you plan on using it. A combo kit with a compressor can be had for less than the price of one of the battery operated ones.

Paint Sprayer: How much do you plan on painting? A good roller is a lot cheaper if this is a one and done kind of thing.

Good luck and if you have any more questions I'll be happy to answer whatever I can.

1. Around the $200-250 mark is the sweet spot of good routers in my opinion. I haven't personally used it but this bosch gets very good reviews and costs $200. I personally have this Triton router. It really depends what features you need. The Bosch is a good general use router which will be able to tackle most tasks. The Triton is good if you intend to use in a router table because it has a built in lift system. Another nice thing about the triton is its basically a fixed based and plunge router in one so you dont have to change the bases. That's not really a big deal as changing bases isn't hard but it is nice.
   
   
2. Pretty much all routers will come with a fence for straight cuts. Others than that jigs depend on what tasks you want to use the router for, I don't think there's any must haves. Most router jigs can be built out of offcuts and scraps so you can just make them as you need them.
   
   
3. Yes, you can replace the functionality of a router with hand tools. It might not be practical though and will definitely cost you more money. A router basically replaces any joinery plane or moulding plane. You'd need a plough plane, rebate plane, router plane, and a half dozen moulding planes to replace the basic functions of a router, and more for specialty work. Before routers a wood worker would have around 50 to 60 different planes to do the jobs a router can do.
   
   
4. Companies like Ryobi don't necessarily make crap tools but they're geared towards people doing DIY type work. They aren't made to the same level of quality as better brands. In my opinion for something like a router its worth getting something a bit better.
   
   
5. Routers have a lot of functions, too many to list. You've covered the basic ones such as mouldings and joinery. Some others include inlay and template routing. They're a very versatile tool. I wouldn't worry too much about learning everything all at once. Once you start using it you'll learn how it works and what you can do with it.

Ultimately if you get serious into woodworking you are going to end up with several routers, a 3+ HP router table, at ~3 HP handheld, a 1.25 HP handheld, and a trim router. It all comes down to what you are doing with them. The router table is your work horse that you use for 90% of tasks, except for the few operations you can't do. The big routers are unwieldy to handle so you really have to make sure they are well supported and stable or then can get away from you. For larger bits you need the 1/2" shank and the extra power they provide but for smaller work you give up control and it's a nuance to use them. For those sorts of projects a smaller 1.25 HP compact router is the better option. You can't use the larger bits up much easier/safer the handle and more control. They use a 1/4" shank. For really fine work that you want to do free hand, say routing out waste for inlay, the trim router is what you want.

You want definitely want a plunge router. That allows you to start/stop in the middle of a piece by plunging down into it. I don't know that I've ever bothered to switch a router to fixed base. Variable speed control is also a must, you will get a much better cut if you have the correct speed for the bit/material you are working with. As far as as shank size you generally want 1/2" as it's safer, so if there is an option between 1/4" and 1/2" for that bit you'd usually go for the the 1/2". A lot of the smaller bits are 1/4" only, larger 1/2". You can use a 1/4" shank bit in a 1/2" router but not the other way around. So keep what bits you need in mind when you pick a router. Another important aspect is the router bits you use. Cheap bits are not worth it. A lot of people will say buy a cheap set then upgrade the ones you use regularly. I did that, not a great idea. The quality of the cut is poor and they don't feel safe. Do you want a cheap made in China bit spinning at a high RPM in a tool you are holding? No thanks! I get 1000% better results from good bits, smooth cuts and no issues.

For the sound of what you want to do I'd suggest a smaller compact router to start (then a router table /w dedicated 3+hp router motor). I like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049ZFUK2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3MF02H72ZOHDJ&coliid=I2UIP99Y0DK7X9

As far a bits go my top choice is Whiteside. The Freud quadra cuts (larger 4 winged bits) are super nice as well. There are several other good brands out there too though. I'd buy bits on an as needed basis as they are expensive for good ones.

Honestly, this question can be asked about any tool. Should a hobbyist buy cheap tools just to get started or spend more on quality tools, but buy fewer of them at first?

For the most part, I'm in the "buy quality tools" camp. I started out on the cheap tools (Skil, Ryobi, etc) and they made a lot of tasks harder than they needed to be. That is, a skilled craftsman could have gotten quality results from those tools but I certainly couldn't. I found that the quality of my work jumped dramatically when I switched to precision tools.

Now... in your case, none of three routers that you're referencing would be in the cheap crap territory, as far as I'm concerned. You'll do fine with any of them.

Some thoughts, though:

The Bosch 1617EVSPK is often considered the gold standard for mid sized routers. Many many woodworkers have that one and love it. You will absolutely not regret getting it.

The DeWalt DW618PK is a direct competitor to the Bosch and holds its own very well. Lots of very satisfied users of that model, too. Another that you'll definitely love.

The Hitachi models... are almost surely worth getting as well. I'll be honest, though -- they aren't talked about as much as either the Bosch or DeWalt.

One final thought: Depending on how you'll use a router, you might consider a "trim" router like the DeWalt DWP611PK. I've found that one to be notably easier to handle than my mid sized and it has handled everything I've thrown at it with aplomb. Really, the only downside is that it can only accept 1/4" shanks and most of my bits are 1/2". If I had more 1/4" bits then I'll likely use the DWP611PK almost exclusively when not on the router table.

I'm not saying you can't build floor to ceiling book shelves with out a table saw... but I can pretty confidently say I wouldn't be able to build quality shelves with out a table saw. Even a crappy bottom model contractor saw will help you do a lot of things.... If you're wondering check out

www.woodworkingformeremortals.com (i think I got that typed in right) and look at Steve Ramsey's videos up till about 2010 when he upgraded his saw. it's a crappy craftsman contractor saw but he makes some pretty cool stuff with it.

as far as saws go - I have the Ridigid one with the cast iron top - I can't think of the numbers at the moment. the reddit community seems fickle on this saw, some weeks reddit loves it, other weeks reddit seems to think it lacks balls. I personally have had it ~ 6 months and I love it. before that, I had a contractor saw and avoided table sawing as much as I could. Now, I find excuses to use it. seriously, I go out of my way to cut stuff on the table saw that would have been much easier with some other method. The other day I made a fresh loaf of bread and actually had to talk myself out of putting it on my cross cut sled. It seemed like a good idea at the time.

for a router I have this Dewalt. I actually got it for Christmas this year and so far haven't had any problems other then finding dust collection that will attach to the plunge base, but it's a minor problem really and to be honest, I haven't looked very hard.

Also since you didn't mention it in your tools list - get a 4 foot level if you're going to make a book shelf out of sheet goods possibly an 8 foot (but that's excessive). you're going to want a really good straight edge to help break down your ply before you try to mill it through a table saw or anything else.

Also - and it can be pretty cheap - compressed air with at least a brad nailer. I've found compressed air to be perhaps the most convenient luxury to have in the shop - others here might disagree.

Hope all this helps.

This is the router I use. Better dust collection in the plunge base than the Bosch, plus the hard case, and is otherwise pretty comparable.

The Skil is one I'd stay away from. They're not known for their quality, the plunge base feels pretty flimsy, it lacks some of the nicer features of the other routers. When you're going to be spinning high-speed steel at several tens of thousands of RPMs and that much HP, quality becomes a safety consideration.

I'd go with the DeWalt, but the Bosch is a good alternative if for some reason you don't want the DeWalt.

The easiest router table to build is a hole drilled through your workbench and a board clamped to it for a fence. Attach the fixed base underneath the surface pointing upwards and you're done. Anything nicer than that is optional. Norm's plans from New Yankee Workshop are a favorite, and a lot of people have similar designs available for free on the net. Dust collection and easy fence adjustment are the two key features in a table I'd say.

I've never joined the WWGA. Never saw a need. They have plans and stuff, but there are plenty of free plans for everything on the net, and I usually just make my own anyway. YMMV.

Good luck with your endeavours!

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

This is what I have. It works awesome. You will need a velcro backing plate and the pads to go with it.

So for example, my setup was the porter cable polisher, the Meguiar's 105 & 205 polishes, a 6in. velcro backing plate, orange pads used with the 105, and white pads used with the 205 polish.

I started with the orange pads and the 105 to "cut" the paint. Just to get all those deeps swirls out. This will leave micro swirls, which is why you have to follow up with the 205 and white pads. You could probably skip the 105 step all together and just use either the white pads or black pads. (that is if you don't have really bad swirls) I would probably try to black pads first as they would be the safest and less abrasive.

So here's how I would do it with your car if you just want to try and get minor swirls out. I would 2 bucket wash, dry, and then clay. I would then tape off all your trim (if you plan on doing the whole car) as getting polish stuck between trim or on trim is a PITA. I would just worry about trim that is close to paint. Prep work will take time, but you won't have to slow down when polishing each panel. So once your trim is taped off it's time to get to work. Decide which panel you want to start with. Apply 3-5 drops of 205 polish to the black pad, have some water (preferably distilled) in a spray bottle and mist the pad. Go over to the panel and stick the pad against the panel to spread out the polish. You should have a couple spots where there's 3-5 drops of polish on the panel now. Bring the polisher up to speed, (I usually do a middle speed) and start working the polish into the panel going back and forth in a sweeping motion. Once you have thoroughly gone over the panel, carefully turn off your polisher without lifting off. If you lift off you will get polish EVERYWHERE. Now wipe it dry with a soft microfiber towel. I purchased brand new microfiber towels (basically the softest ones too) from The Rag Company. You want to remove ALL polish residue from the panel as soon as possible. Do not move onto the next panel without doing this. This will also give you an opportunity to check your work. Use a bright light to see if you can spot anymore swirls. You shouldn't see any.

I am by no means a professional, I have only done this once on my own personal vehicle. I believe I got pretty good results. Take my advice with a grain of salt. I just watched Youtube videos to learn what I know. I hope this helps! Don't be too worried or nervous. It's pretty easy and was pretty fun. But I won't lie, because I went over my car twice, my arms were killing me by the end of the day. I could barely finish the last panel (it was on the side) because my arms just wanted to give out. It was hard work, but so so worth it!

It should also go without saying, but be sure to either do this in a garage or in complete spot. You want the paint to be cool and you don't want the polish to dry on the panel. Also you don't want to have any dust blow on your paint or settle. Basically you want your paint as clean as possible before you go to town with your polisher.

So I've always liked to go barefoot when possible, but a few years ago I decided to give 'barefoot style' a serious try, inspired partially by Cody Lundin.

So one of the things I noticed was that I'd build up some pretty impressive callous on parts of my feet which is good because it makes walking on rough terrain like driveway gravel easier to handle but eventually those callouses get too thick and begin to crack and then that causes trouble.

The solution I found was to sand the callouses down once or twice a month. Tried a variety of methods and the best method I found was to use a high speed rotary tool with a sanding attachment, like a Dremel.

Works well enough that once while visiting my mother, she saw me using it and gave it a try then went and bought her own so she can give herself and her husband pedicures every so often.

Also, at least once a week or after runs you should boil a cup of water, add a dash of soap and then use a heavy terrycloth washcloth to really scrub your feet, make sure to exfoliate any dead skin.

Also take off your socks as often as you can, so your feet don't stay sweaty/wet.

Doing those things may clear up your issues, it works for me.

Of course! Happy to help!

A shop vac is going to help with some of the dust but a full on dust collection system will dramatically change the way you work. Harbor Freight actually sells a dust collector that is well worth it. Like $160 with their 20% off coupon. Tons of content creators and other videos/articles about the HF Dust Collector and modifications people have made. Then using 4"PVC to run piping along the walls and the 4" dust collection flex hose to your tools.

Also, you can look into an air purifier for the fine dust as well. I've heard alot of good things about the WEN brand 3-Speed for the price point.

Keep an eye out on craigslist and facebook marketplace as well. I've purchased almost all of my powered tools second hand and they've held up great. You can even set up alerts to your email for certain phrases such as "planer", "jointer", "lumber", etc...

Here's a good square: https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-S0101CB-Square-Layout-Combination/dp/B00SOVRPXW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504672358&sr=8-2&keywords=swanson+square

Black and Decker isn't currently known for being a great brand, but they have some great prices on cordless tools.
This black and decker cordless drill is a great bang for the low asking price: https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-LDX120C-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B005NNF0YU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504672428&sr=1-4&keywords=drill
The combo with the circular saw is pretty damn good. If you don't need to cut curves, I would pick a circular saw instead of a jigsaw.

Black and decker also sells a cordless jigsaw: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDCJS20B-Lithium-Jigsaw/dp/B019OF6T38/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504673042&sr=1-2&keywords=black+and+decker+jigsaw

The Harbor freight aluminum bar clamps are fantastic for clamping larger pieces together, and the smaller steel bar clamps are also fantastic for everything else. You can go with pipe clamps, that will cost slightly more than the aluminum bar clamps, but they will work significantly better.

> Are you chasing unicorns?

So that is what it is called! lol!

When you don't know something, you gotta ask the experts! I may have to start looking into an entire replacement tailstock in this case. I have seen other tailstocks with the crank but they have another (possibly removable) live center attached to it. I might be able to make that work.

/u/Silound, I did look into the Dremel drill press as an alternative and the idea of drilling a hole into something to hold the pin in place is a great idea! Several reviews on Amazon have noted that the dremel doesn't sit perpendicular to the base. I don't know if that is due to the placement of the dremel inside of the cradle or manufacture error.

In any case, this was my first attempt at drilling a 1mm hole in the pin freehand and this is how close to center I got. I am a thin hair off to the left side of center. As you can see, the larger hole was easier. If the entire length of the nestling pin would be 1mm as well, that wouldn't be a problem. However, the nestling pin has to have a larger head so that the pin doesn't fall out the bottom and I would have to match the degree of offset for it to fit correctly. I might need to catch one of those unicorns and rub some of it's blood on the dremel to make that one work, lol!

Thank both of you for your delicious knowledge! I appreciate it.

You can totally DIY paint correct with a dual action polisher.

Here’s a straightforward shopping list and guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.

Shopping List:

Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q

Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1

Bugging Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V

Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ

Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT

Wax - Your preference

Here’s the guide:

1 – Tool Prep

Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.

2 – Wash

Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.

3 – Clay Bar

Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.

4 – Compound Buffing

Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.

5 – Inspection

Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.

6 – Polish Buffing

Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.

7 – Inspection

Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.

8 – Wax

Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.

Dust Containment, Dust Collection, Dust Filtration.

First, go to any big box store (I think even walmart may have it) and get a roll of sheet plastic. Try to get at least 6mil thickness. Attach this to the bottoms of the joists and subfloor. Be sure to go up in between the joists to seal that off too. Staples work really well, especially if you reinforce the edge of the plastic with a piece of duct tape on both sides. Wherever your door is going to be, overlap to pieces by about 12-18" to create a usable door flap.

Second, (if you don't already have one) get some sort of dust collection. A simple shop vac will do, though I highly recommend that you get a large one with a 2 1/2" hose as well as some sort of dust separator or you will be buying vacuum bags and filters like crazy.

Finally, get the Wen 3410 for $125. It has plenty of air movement and at full speed will cycle the air in a 20x20 room something like 7 times per hour I think. It's also quiet. The unit is identical to the Rikon and a couple other units at a much cheaper price.

The first two are the most important, but the last will greatly reduce the amount of dust that stays in the air, and more importantly, your lungs. A good respirator would also be a good investment as well. For less than $20, it's a good investment. I like the 3M 650x Quick Latch Respirator. I use one of these along with the P100 filters. If you have to go cheap on the last one, get a $20 box fan and a 20x20 furnace filter. That works decently too.

edit: I too work in my basement. I did the above and do not have problems with dust anywhere in the house, even right outside of my shop.

Actually, if you read the reviews it's been universally rejected for hamster use. Seems that every user has had the hamster escape from it. I think it's meant to be a guinea pig cage.

I actually made my own bin cages and then connected them to an OvO habitrail system. but be warned I spent a fair amount of money by the time I was done. I don't know what your budget is, but making a bin cage (another DIY vid ) ends up costing around 25-50 bucks, and it 's pretty easy. This is the one I've used when I made my bin cages. It ends up at around 400 sq inches which is good. The nice thing is that since it's plastic it's dead easy to cut a round hole in it to add tubes.

If DIY really isn't your thing I guess this is the pre built cage I'd choose. There are a few questions about durability, you need to change the water bottle to a safer one, and it can only connect to the manufacturer's tube system, which isn't cheap. but neither were the OvO tubes.

There are much more expensive cages as well. You can spend easily 200-300 on a nice prebuilt. Or even make one out of a Ikea bookcase. Lastly if you do decide to build a bin cage I suggest you buy or see if you can borrow a dremel tool. It makes the whole job much easier than using any sort of knife.

Cyclonic dust collectors are very much worth the trouble. They save you an enormous amount of headache, and keep your vacuum's suction high enough to carry away the chips you're making.

The one you linked looks like it would trap medium sized particles pretty well, but with mostly straight sides, and the funnel down at the bottom, the vortex might not get going fast enough to spin smaller particles (like MDF fines) out of the airstream.

If you're not married to the idea of DIY, the Dust Deputy is an awesome option which works very well to clean your airstream.

Good Luck!

So I have recently started doing my own scale work. It is quite fun but can be tedious work with how precise you MUST be for drilling screws or the knife wont go back together properly. Blade centering can be screwed up etc.
Anyways the main tools that I use are as follows:

Skil Drill press

Dremel 4000

Dremel Shaper Table

Swivel Benchtop Vise

You will still need other assorted accessories like sanding wheels, cutting wheels (if you dont have a table saw for cutting down G10/Wood/Whatever media). While I am not a pro and I am just starting these are the essentials. Please feel free to PM me or email me hd600s@gmail.com if you have any other questions. I would be more than happy to help. It is extremely rewarding when you complete a set. The first few may not be perfect but you MADE them yourself :)

The only 2 I have successfully completed. I still need to work on my pattern technique

Unfortunately I was hoping to use RGB LEDS, I can't believe I didn't specify that. Sorry about that, I edited it in. Would you be able to explain the common cathode vs common anode? I'll be looking it up but just to make sure I have the right idea for it.

 

I'll more than likely be using a relay at first, following tlucas's comment above just to get a bit of a better understanding but will be pushing to move over to a more complicated setup using transistors as they seem to be more efficient.

 

Ah yes I had picked out a multimeter but is there a type that you would suggest? I wouldn't be against learning how to make a board, i've looked at tutorials and it seems reasonably simple for just a basic board with no special features. I looked into the materials for a board, but the only thing I haven't figured out is the dremel. Should I go with a handheld one or would a standing one be better?

Edit: It seems like the standing one would be better, however people aren't too fond of that one I linked, I may end up going with a drill press

Hello /r/knifeclub !

TL;DR: I got given a knife and it doesn't want to hold an edge, can anyone identify it / the steel. Is it worth keeping and re-profiling or is it trash?

I have googled and I can't find any information on this knife. It was given to me by my other half's mother. I took it to the sharpener and put a nice 18° per side edge on it and within less than a week it was blunted. My ceramic rod did nothing; I grabbed my loupe and looked at the edge and it looks like a god damn mountain range.

I'm not hard on my knives, my regular 8" chefs knife is the excellent but famously soft steeled Victorinox Fibrox and that lasts me a good 2 months between needing maintanace.

I have since taken it to the Worksharp because I didn't want to waste my time re-working it without gathering more information first (new edge picture is the last of the 4, you can see the new edge the Worksharp put on it). It's sharp again for now but I have no idea if it'll last.

Can anyone tell me anything about this knife? Do I need to put a steeper edge on it? the blade is stamped "Japan", I had my fingers crossed that maybe it would be a solid VG-10 blade but that doesn't seem to be the case. I'm happy to sit down and take the time to work the edge into something robust if it's worth it.

Help me /r/knifeclub, you're my only hope.

The commercial product looks like this though there are a lot of options and price points. As mentioned above you'll also want to be good about using dust collection as that stops the dust from getting into the air in the first place. That could be either shop vac(s) or a dedicated dust collector That dust collector is pretty basic and ideally the air filter should be replaced for something better. There are tons of guides online for modifying those if/when you're ready to do so.

As for the space it really depends on what your budget and level of interest are. I would want to cover the ceiling with either drywall or at least plastic to keep the dust out of the insulation. Drywall looks better and can be painted white to increase the amount of light in there. Eventually you'll want to be able to hang things easily on the walls as storage is a constant battle so a studwall with drywall or plywood on it might be a good choice when you get to that point too.

Brain dump if you don't mind:

UPS store has magazine paper they can print on. They'll usually sell you blanks for pennies. That stuff it the absolute best transfer paper. It transfers perfect, and practically melts in water. Get a cheap laminatior and use that for the fusing. I use a piece of scotch tape on one edge and run it through four or five times. Use a green scotchbright to clean it under the sink with dish soap before you try to adhere it. Only use acetone to remove it after the etch. These three things made my toner transfer process %100 reliable. I can etch smaller traces now too.

For etchant you should try 2 parts %70 peroxide mixed with 1 part muriatic acid (always add acid to the peroxide, not the other way). It's cheap, less toxic, and etches fast. Easy to get locally too since it's just hardware store and walgreens stuff. You also can see the etch better. Mix it in a glass container outside. It gets hot and off-gasses for a couple minutes when mixed, but it's pretty safe after that. It also looks like lime koolaid. Do not drink it.

Checkout the little dremel drill press. It's great for PCBs.

In means of accuracy and size you probably can't beat the Dewalt DW745. I've had mine for 3 years and am still super happy with it. The guided fence is super easy to adjust and is always parallel to the fence.
The two downsides are the 20" rip capacity (24" would be perfect) and that the arbor is to short to use a dado stack.
There are enough work arounds for me to still be happy with the saw (router and circular saw) for dados i also often use a flat tooth saw blade and make more passes.

I bought a ryobi tableware initially and returned it after making 4 cuts... piece of shit!! Although I love my ryobi 18v one+ tools.
I bought the dewalt for 229 on sale at HD and love it!
EDIT: f****ed up formatting

You want to use a cutting compound, then a polisher, then a wax and polisher mix, then a wax. It can be done by hand but it'll be tedious work, a polisher is recommended. you can get a 6 inch polisher on Amazon for cheap

[Cutting compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2X258V2JG0MWL&keywords=cutting+compound&qid=1570408658&sprefix=cutting+compound%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3)

[Polisher compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2GPHAWV9X86T2&keywords=polishing+compound&qid=1570408671&sprefix=polish%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-5)

[Wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-Polishing-Compound-Scratch/dp/B0009JKGJ2/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1QLIV2CDVRQM8&keywords=wax+compound+for+cars&qid=1570408763&sprefix=wax+compo%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-7)

[Orbital Polisher] (https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=PM4UWG6DWJ5C&keywords=polisher+machine+for+car&qid=1570408680&sprefix=polisher%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-5)

I also recommend you completely clean the spot with a clay bar as well so you don't scratch the paint more with crud that's already imbedded in the paint.

[Clay bar] (https://www.amazon.com/IPELY-Detailing-Magic-Cleaner-Clean/dp/B0753FSQN6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5)

Good luck!

A glaze would certainly cover up imperfections but it won't last too long. What country are you in? Can you do shipping through Amazon? If so I would recommend this, if price and shipping isn't too crazy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_y6buzb0CTB6TD

Then check out the chemical guys pads on Amazon as well. If you cant get good shipping via Amazon then I'm sorry, I wish I knew more to be of help! But good luck!

If the EVS goes out, the router runs at max speed. Which can still be used but scares the crap out of me for slightly larger bits. The best tried and true router is the porter cable here

If you don't need anything that powerful, this one works well also.

Mid power range, this works okay as well.

There are a few other options available. If you want to move it between a pantorouter and table, these will work well. If you want to use it for router table only, triton is a much better choice due to the built in router lift and above table bit change.

grab this one and all your concerns will be addressed. it has both fixed and plunge bases. 1/4 and 1/2 collets. plenty of power, and since the bases are removable it mounts great in a router lift or a non-lift table. The fixed base is even designed to work as a mini-lift, allowing adjustments through the table. I own three of these and love them.

edit: it also has quite a few available attachments, like dust collection, edge guides, etc. it's a great starter router and a great forever router, IMO.

Just got a notification from CamelCamelCamel and wanted to share:

Amazon has the Dewalt 735X Planer marked down to $530 right now.
https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Thickness-Package/dp/B003OX9KME/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Dewalt+735x&qid=1573819734&sr=8-2

This is a pretty good price on these new, normal price is around $650. They are very good planers and I love mine even though I haven't gotten to use it as much as I'd like. If anyone has been thinking about getting one, this might be the right time!

edit: swapped the link for an Amazon Smile one.

Actually I do, and much cheaper than a band saw! I found this guy on sale for about $50 after tax at a Home Depot about a year go.

Cons:

Not as great with curves.

And it doesn't come with the dremel/rotary tool - but I found one at a garage sale for $5 so...


There are other options it looks like (especially if you go the wish/ali express way), but I bought the Dremel brand one and it has been great.

I have actually used it for cutting harder materials than foam, and so foam is like butter - just really easy to work.

There are also tutorials on creating your own rotary cutting discs to fit your needs.
Edit: Cons

ok, here you go:

• Metal Comb
  
• Pin Brush
  
• Detangler
  
• Clippers - I use these but Wahl is also really good
  
• Different Blades - if you get the Andis Clipper
  
• Metal comb attachments - get these and not the cheap plastic ones
  
• Grooming Table - This is optional but if you have a wiggly pup like I do, they're helpful. If you get this you should also get these
  
• Dremel for nails
  
  Now keep in mind that I plan on doing 95% of the grooming for the rest of my pups life. Since he's a standard poodle, a full groom would cost me anywhere from $75 to $120 (every 4 to 6 weeks) due to his size. So, for me, investing in all of the above will save me a lot of money in the long run.
  
  *Edit - If you go this route and get your own clippers - make sure you get some blade cleaner/oil, I use this

I have had virtually that same 18v Dewalt drill for almost 12 years and it has never failed me. I actually recently upgraded to 20v and gave my old drill/driver to my wife.

I also work for a company that provides us with 18v Lithium ion Milwaukee drills and I can tell you that we put those things through the ringer each and every day and they are every bit as reliable.

Your biggest reason for the price difference in your two options is that the Milwaukee is a lithium ion kit and they have much much more power. If you are looking for the dewalt counterpart this is closer to its level. If you are serious about drilling through concrete, I would highly suggest getting a hammer drill.

Another thing you might want to consider is buying your drill from a dealer instead of online. Realistically any of the top brands you look at should hold up very well to moderate use, but if you go through a dealer it could make any warranty issues easier.

Hope this was somewhat coherent/helpful. Happy drilling and be sure to come back and share your projects!

Assuming you are starting from the ground up and need everything, it's going to be tight and you'll have to skimp in some places, but this is exactly what I would do. The grand total here is $5005.00 and that includes shipping on the big ticket items which is a few hundred dollars.

Table saw and related stuff:

[Grizzly G0715xp] (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P)

Freud Premier Fusion

[Freud SD208] (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-Inch-Professional-Dado/dp/B0000223O9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407011&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+sd208)

Gr Ripper 3d advanced (awesome on the router table too

Make your own ZCI's

Table Saw Total - $1,142

Jointer

Grizzly G0654 6" jointer (sell this on craigslist when you can upgrade to the 8". They hold their value really well and sell fast)

Jointer total $534.00

Planer

Dewalt DW734 - $399.99 most places. The 735 is nice, but not that much nicer. If I were to upgrade beyond the 734, I'd go for a 15" stationary unit.

Miter saw

Definitely go craigslist on this one. These things are a dime a dozen there. You can get a sliding 12" Dewalt/Makita/Ridgid, etc for around 250.00 to 300.00 Also pick up a decent Irwin Marples or Diablo blade

SCMS total - ~320.00

Bandsaw:

Craftsman BAS350. I own this. It's the SAME EXACT saw as the Rikon 10-321, just 200.00 cheaper. 8" resaw capacity and no stupid riser blocks to fuck up the geometry of your saw and make tensioning a nightmare.

Bandsaw Total - 620.00 with the Rikon resaw fence (bolt on) and a few timberwolf blades

Harbor Freight 2hp Dust collector, a lot of hoses, blast gates, and material to mod it to a 2 stage cyclone - 400.00

Router(s)

Bosch 1617 with both plunge and fixed bases

MLCS 15 bit set. Not the best, but better than absolutely anything else in this price range. Replace bits with Whiteside or Amanna when you have the cash.

Router and bits total 200.00

Also make your own table and fence to fill the empty space in your table saw.

Sanding

{Milwaukee 6021-21 Random Orbit Sander. Best ROS on the market until you go Festool/Ceros

Some klingspor abrasives in different grits

Shop vac bucket max and a 5gal bucket - perfect for sanders

Ridgid oscilating spindle sander. This is a tool I could definitely not live without after owning.

Sanding total - $320.00

Drill Press

Porter cable floor press

Also get the Porter Cable Forstner bit set and some decent brad points/twists)

Drill Press/bits total - ~$420.00

Clamps

Jorgensen Cabinet Master 4pc Set and various other bar clamps. The Pittsburgh ones from HF are pretty good

Clamps total ~ $250.00

Misc stuff

Woodriver bench chisels.

A vintage stanley block plane, and a jack plane

some plywood/melamine, and cheap hardwood and hardware to make a cross cut sled, router table/fence. drill press table, a workable bench/outfeed table and a grizzly woodworking end vise

Misc total - ~400.00

This is the router that came fairly highly recommended back in the day when I was looking then I got a down spiral cut bit for my plunge cuts (1/4" since that is what the jasper jig uses), a few roundover/chamfer bits, and a flush trim... Bosh makes pretty good bits for the price so I usually stick with them. Looks like amazon is even running a $20 off dewalt tools right now too.

As far as a "bench" you don't need anything fancy most of my work has been done on a piece of 2'x4' ply on saw horses. With powertools you don't have much lateral force so you don't need something as sturdy as you would if you're using planes, hand saws, and chisels. You just have to be careful about making sure things are balanced and clamped properly so you don't accidentally tip your work surface. Bonus is that it can be folded up and stored easily and if you need a special spot to clamp just right I just cut into the ply.

Yes. DeWalt makes very nice routers and this is a very reasonable mid-size model. I'm going to give two other recommendations, though.

For mid-sized routers, you can't go wrong with the Bosh 1617EVSPK. It is a solid workhorse and wins more than a few comparison tests: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/

Honestly, though, I'd skip a mid-size router if I was getting my first router. The new compacts are extremely versatile and I find myself reaching for mine most of the time. It's gotten to the point that I use my router table for router table type stuff and my compact for everything else. My mid-size just sits there, except for rare occasions.

The best compact router I've found is the DeWalt DWP611PK. I've had it for about a year and it's been my go-to router ever since: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049ZFUK2/

I purchased my screen from AAA Retro Gaming on eBay.

These kits and screens are all coming from the same place in China. One store won't have a magical better stock than another. The one linked above will come with the 40-pin Type B cable (if needed), along with a glass screen lens.

----------------------------------------

Not necessary, but it'll make your life easier ... a rotary tool.

I chose this one because of the bundled accessories and case, along with it's high rating. I've used one and couldn't tell the difference between this and a Dremel.

----------------------------------------

If you go the rotary tool route, get some eye protection. Bits may go flying directly into your face.

----------------------------------------

Can't forget the soldering iron.

I chose this configuration because it comes with stand, solder and other accessories for only $16.

----------------------------------------

Flush cutters will help you get to spots too tight for the rotary tool. This isn't necessary, but it's very useful when needed.

----------------------------------------

For various other mod bits, I've ordered from quite a few stores.

• Hand Held Legend - If you're in the US, these guys are my favorite. They'll get your package out within 24 hours.
  
  
• Retro Modding - They're based in Canada and shipments are ... a bit timely. Personally, it took 18 days for my package to arrive (to Chicago).
  
  
• eBay - Just make sure where the seller is from. (If the item is too cheap, it's coming over very slowly from China.)

I've had one of these for almost 10 years, and it's worked great for spreading wax AND polishing with several menzerna products as well as megs ultimate compound. There's no speed adjustment and you have to use those turtle wax style microfiber bonets, but it was the best thing around for $30 for a while. http://amzn.com/B000077CPT

Now that the HarborFreight one is out and uses regular pads, is adjustable speed and is reliable, that $60-70 seems like the best way to go.

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)


Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG

Claybar the car:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

I have a cheap orbital car buffer that I use to get out muscle soreness. I have this one and use it with the soft wool pad. Light pressure flat on big muscles does a general massage and I use the edge to dig into knots. It sounds utterly ridiculous, but a CrossFit friend turned me on to this and it really works. I got a better massage with it in 5 minutes than any foam roller, stick, or deep tissue massage I've ever had.

Also, it exfoliates and works pretty well for buffing your car (4 stars on Amazon) :)

I assume you already have lacrosse balls, but this is a really good tool too, using a car polisher for myofascial release or stripping.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-WP900-6-Inch-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502402094&sr=1-2&keywords=orbital+polisher

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5ictPToU9M

The closest thing you can get to that's meant to use on humans is a percussor, which is >$300. Battery lasts for a couple hundred hours

All my bodywork practitioners got them after I showed them mine.

This acupressure mat is good too, you can wrap your arms in it or dig your hands into it: http://www.heavenlymats.com/

Those are my favorites. I do a bit of thai massage for fun.

Hey OP depending on how much cash you got/What you want to make I can recommend you get this router here.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484624879&sr=1-1&keywords=bosch+router

It has sufficient power to handle most bits and has a super convenient height adjustment that can be used over the table with a hex key. It also comes with two bases (plunge and fixed) so you can just yank it out whenever you need it and not have to unscrew it.

Now if you want something that will handle anything you throw at it you can get one of those 3 1/4 HP monsters which will handle every massive 3 1/2 inch raised panel bits with ease.

Some good routers are:

https://www.amazon.com/Triton-TRA001-Precision-Plunge-Router/dp/B00779ND0Q/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484625229&sr=1-4&keywords=triton+router

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7518-Speedmatic-5-Speed-Router/dp/B0000222V3/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484625371&sr=1-1&keywords=porter+cable+3+hp

OR if you got the cash you can buy Festools best router:

https://www.amazon.com/Festool-574354-EB-Router-2200-Watts/dp/B0079XHISS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484625654&sr=1-2&keywords=festool+router

As far as insert plates are concerned Kreg makes the for several routers our you can get them from the manufactures of the router themselves.

I live in Vancouver. My glass is literally out of a photo frame that I got at Dollarama for $2.5. Nothing fancy.

I cut it to size using my dremel https://www.amazon.ca/2305-Rotary-Tool-Flex-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501045676&sr=1-1&keywords=dremel with these wheels https://www.amazon.ca/SE-DW13-5-Piece-Diamond-Wheels/dp/B000P49NCC

I attached the glass with 4 binder clips, each measuring 15mm in width. Also from Dollarama; a pack for a Loonie.

Few tips. If you do this, get 2 or 3 frames because you will probably end up cracking your first one as I did. Also be safe. You need to protect your eyes, your hands, and your breath. Again, don't really have to be fancy. For my eye protection I was wearing just my glasses. I also had some good fitting working gloves (any comfortable slightly thick gloves would do) and I wore a surgical mask for protection from glass dust (a slightly damp cloth covering your mouth and nose would work fine too)

Alternatively, you could do this the normal and easy way and use an actual glass cutting tool https://www.amazon.ca/L-TMS-Professional-Handle-Cutter-Cutting/dp/B06X9GRGGD I didn't have one at hand to I just used my dremel.

While I enjoy my set of lansky stones, they also take a while to use on knives. Seriously considering something like this sharpener. I have heard it works great on lawnmower blades and other larger objects that would take forever with lansky stones. The lansky's are great for beginners wanting to learn how to feel an edge and get great results without messing up a blade.

Avoid those cheap buffers and get yourself a Dual Action Polisher from a reputable brand. DA polishers are much safer on your car's clear coat and are user-friendly.

Griot's Garage 6" orbital polisher is a popular choice and will last forever.

Porter Cable makes a good polisher although it's not as powerful as Griot's and heavier.

MaxShine Shinemaster M8S is a great budget choice. I personally use this one and love it.

At 2-20 cabinets I assume these are private facilities and not Co-Location facilities.

It all boils down to well-thought out standards that align with your needs & requirements.

Plenty of good recommendations in the thread already, but I'll chime in with some of my favorites.

1. Equipment Cabinets as tall, wide and deep as possible.
   

• Floor space is finite. You can't (easily) make the equipment room bigger. So use all of the vertical space that is available to you.
  
• Devices & equipment keeps squeezing more capabilities into the same 1U and 2U form factors, often at the expense of additional equipment depth.
  
• 900 and 1000mm deep cabinets are just not cutting it anymore. Standardize on 1200mm depth, or you'll regret it soon.
  
• I like this PDF from APC here as it provides a clear illustration of the problems encountered when you are forced to install a deep device in a shallow cabinet. Ignore the concept that maybe you don't use Cisco UCS servers. Someday somebody is going to buy a device as deep as that UCS enclosure and want to mount it in one of your cabinets.
  

2. Air Flow, Air Flow, AIR FLOW !!!
   

• Hot Aisles and Cold Aisles.
  
• Where will the hot air go?
  
• Where is the cold air coming from?
  
• If this is a small, 6 cabinet environment, having a big assed 36" industrial fan in the room for just-in-case is a brilliant investment.
  

3. I don't want 110V power in the server environment. Everything in the cabinets is 220V.
   

• We deliver 2 or 4 x L6-30R connections to each cabinet.
  
• My initial response to a request for 110V power in a cabinet will be very negative, bordering on hostile.
  
• Anything that is 110V-only isn't data center grade. Go find a better product and come back with a new request.
  
• Yes, I will eventually cave in and meet the needs of the business.
  

4. Yes, I fully agree with having a permanent stash of consumables in the facility (if this is a private facility).
   

• 1" or 3/4" velcro by the roll.
  
• 12" medium-duty zip-ties.
  
• Label Printer and a cable labeling solution.
  
• Flashlight, multi-bit screwdriver, Cage Nut tool. In a larger facility I want an electric screwdriver, but small & light not big and powerful Like This, NOT Like This
  
• Patch cables, Fiber jumpers, SFP/SFP+ optics
  
• I don't want a Co-Lo provider to provide these things for free. Such a service will be abused and the costs of that abuse will be passed forward to us.
  
• I love seeing a credit-card enabled vending machine outside of the data center floor with these things in it. I'll put a $10 15' CAT6 patch cord on my AmEx in a heartbeat if it saves me from having to sign out of the facility and crawl into my car because I'm one cable short.
  
  
  ...
  
  
  I had more thoughts, but I've lost them...
  
  

1. Not sure if this counts, but I'm getting it for my boyfriends birthday...
   
   
2. Simon Pegg is English, Game of Thrones is English, and I need a beanie
   
   
3. I will write a book on this and I'll read it? God, I'm sorry, This is horrible.
   
   
4. Ha! Bet you weren't expecting these, were you?
   
   
5. I need a new flash drive...
   
   
6. The Knight Bus is purple.
   
   
7. A game.
   
   
8. I love steampunk.
   
   
9. A Dremel
   
   
10. Triforce key chain.
    
    
11. I can organize my DnD dice?
    
    
12. DnD is a hobby. Right?
    
    
13. This is kinda nerdy...
    
    
14. Turtles are totally natural.
    
    
15. Cthulu is very green.
    
    
16. Shirt
    
    
17. I find this funny
    
    
18. I'm still scared of the dark, and I could string these together as beads...
    
    
19. I can cut down some trees?
    
    
20. I need one of these
    
    Bonus:Mats?
    
    Happy happy cakeday!!!!!
    
    

The Dewalt DW735 is my recommendation. I have used many floor model planers including by General, Grizzly, and some others. I have also used several of the bench top models, although not the cheaper Dewalt. Once I tried the DW735 at someone else's workshop, it blew me away. I bought one and have planed many types of wood with mine now including hickory, ash, maple, walnut, zebrawood, purpleheart, bloodwood, birch.

It does extremely well on the difficult woods like zebrawood which actually has grain sticking up both ways. None of the other planers I had tried worked very well on this, I would always get some tearout due to the weird grain pattern.

The other thing I was never able to do on other planers is plane thin pieces, on this I have planed pieces down to 1/8" without having to use another sled underneath (there are tricks you can play with laying the thin piece on another board when putting it through like a sled). I have also planed pieces up to 16/4 thick full width taking off 1/8"+ per pass. You will probably want to bolt it down to something, but I have run 12 foot boards through mine by holding it for the first few feet then going to the other side to hold up the finished end. It is expensive, but mine has absolutely worked like a charm. Also a little heavy for a benchtop, but I can pretty easily lift by myself, and it adds stability for when you do longer boards compared to other benchtops.

A few thing will give you excellent blade life for any planer. I check my wood very carefully for any foreign objects like staples nails etc. I cut 1/4" off both ends of the boards first because boards can stand up in dirty areas and get imbedded with dirt, metal shavings, gravel, etc before you get them or while you store them. Sometimes I wire brush the board surface if it looks dirty. Unless you are using especially knotty wood or plywood, the only real cause of knife nicks is from non-wood debris in the wood you are planing. I run on the slow speed setting even when roughing because the blades are removing less material with each cut (less stress on blade). The blade replacement is super easy on this planer too though for when shit does happen or they get dull.

I literally used a chainsaw on an ash tree and a hickory tree to turn them into boards. Probably a 10" hickory and a 16" diameter ash. Got several 10' sections from each. Cut it up with chainsaw into boards, let them dry, cut 6"-12" off the ends from splitting, then ran them all through this planer. After many other smaller projects and then nearly two entire trees, it was time to change the blades for the first time... definitely a workhorse that was worth what I paid.

The tables in this package are worth it in my opinion because they help reduce snipe. I get none to very little snipe. http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Planer-Package/dp/B003OX9KME/

So I don’t really know much about this router BUT if this is your first router and you want a good one to use for small to large projects I HIGHLY recommend this one. This was my first and I use it for EVERYTHING and for the price it’s the best router on the market IMO.

DEWALT DWP611PK 1.25 HP Max Torque Variable Speed Compact Router Combo Kit with LED's https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049ZFUK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3jyACbQW32Y0R

My dust deputy was $60(ish), the dustopper is $40. The better performance seemed like it would save money in consumable bags or filters pretty quickly. I think in your case what I mean is, if you go with a seperator instead if the HF collector, dust deputy clears more fine dust and will be less likely to leave you with the same problem.

Duststopper comes with a hose, deputy does not. Both need a bucket. So thats a price consideration.

Here are links to what Im referencing.

Video that convinced me dust deputy performed well enough to be worth the extra money:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XsCVcx2O0u4


Dust deputy for $60
https://www.amazon.com/Oneida-Molded-Dust-Deputy-Cyclone/dp/B002JP315K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549253233&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dust+deputy&dpPl=1&dpID=312x3hJXq1L&ref=plSrch

Dust stopper for $40
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dustopper-High-Efficiency-Dust-Separator-12-in-dia-with-2-5-in-hose-36-in-long-HD12/302643445

Also consider that you’ll need a bunch of 4 inch hose and fittings / adapters for the HF collector.

I bought a cheapo Wen off of Amazon. For the price of a Dremel^^TM accessory kit, I get a whole tool, accessories, and flex shaft (the accessories were so-so, but with the money I saved I was able to buy other fittings for it)... For what I need a rotary tool for, this one fits perfect. I've used many Dremel^^TM brand tools before, and this one is just as good.

Here's the thing with rotary tools tho, they're light duty. They're great for small/odd jobs, but if you're doing anything more than a few minutes work, an air die grinder and/or cut off wheel will be about 1000x better.

What do you need a rotary tool for?

I like it raw like u/overlyapologeticguy.

I don't really have any funny stories about that type "cough" protection.

Other protection related story. Was trying to tan before going on a date one time. Didn't think I would need any tanning lotion or anything like that. Well the employee recommended I try the lowest strength bed for 10 minutes... so I did. Holy shit. I was fine for about an hour and then it started. I was so freaking red all over my entire body. I'm a ginger so I burn really easily. Even the inside of my ears was bright red. It was so bad that my freckles all turned this weird shade of green. I spent the next several hours in a bathtub full of cool water and baking soda. It took about a week before my entire body peeled off in giant disgusting chunks of skin. So painful.

Long story short, I've accepted that I come in two shades. Snow white and tomato red.

I've been wanting this rotary tool kit so I can hopefully fix some small rust spots on my car before they spread any more.

Thanks for the contest.

I've been using a look to know for a while, but as my health has declined it's gotten a bit difficult to keep up-- plus my looms never made a tight enough knit for my tastes.

So I did some research and found a good, entry level circular knitting machine that wasn't too expensive and I love it! Now I can make a good length scarf in only 3hrs.

I had an idea about making it electric-- lots of folks have set up a power drill and use it for turning the crank. Since it's not the more expensive Addi Express, unfortunately there aren't really custom attachments, so instead I'm using Sugru to attach a spare drill bit I found.

Then I want to hook it up with a foot pedal, and maybe I can work on 3-4 at once!

I also use a row counter, but I think I need a stronger magnet for it to not miss rows.

Product links:

D&D Professional 40 Needles Knitting Machine Weaving Loom Kit includes Yarn Needles Accessories for Adults/ Kids https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YSTN8Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x6SCCbCC2S4MV

Electronic Counter, DROK LCD Digital Tally Counter 0-99999 Forward People Door Counter Panel 5 Digits Shockproof Retail Traffic Punch Tester Totalizer Gauge Magnetic Induction Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0153409CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_j.SCCb8XKJDEW

DCT Foot Operated Pedal Controller On/Off Power Supply Switch 115V 15A 2 Step Control Style Woodworking Machine Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MH2NCT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C.SCCbVJS6QYY

BLACK+DECKER DR260C 5.5 Amp 3/8'' Drill/Driver. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T.SCCbPP035AX

Sugru Moldable Glue - Original Formula - White 8-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WW8KIQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9.SCCbGCDH137

That ridgid or the delta for ~$600 are the best hobbyist woodworker level saws on the market currently. If you intend to do a decent amount of weekend warrior woodworking then they would be good investments.

If you are just looking for the occasional DIY project and want to save some more money, this dewalt jobsite saw is half the cost and works great. Being a jobsite saw it is much smaller so think about the types of projects you want to do. But I have built tables, coffee tables, and many cutting boards on mine.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW745-10-Inch-Job-Site-Capacity/

​

Edit: Also there is a common misconception about 220v saws. Rewiring to 220 does not provide any more power, it just takes up less space on the circuit while providing the same amount of power. So if you have a 15 amp 110v saw on a 20 amp circuit you aren't missing out on any power, you just can't run much of anything else on that circuit at the same time.

I never took a class, just watch a lot of videos. If you do decide to get a polisher, mare sure its a DA polisher. The one I use is proven to not burn the paint. At lease if you don't hold it down in one section for 20 minutes lol. It is the Porter Cable 7424 xp. I attach a 6 inch backing plate to it and use it with some of Meguiar's Polishing pads. Here is a link if you want to learn more: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002654I46/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002654I46&linkCode=as2&tag=perfautodet0a-20
Now that I think about it, Chemical Guys also sell like a complete kit that looks like a reasonable price. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UW1IQU/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B003UW1IQU&linkCode=as2&tag=perfautodet0a-20

I actually got mines from a local store and got rip off. This old lady sold it to me for 180 with pads only... bummer.
I think all you really need to do is clean the area well, clay it, mask it, and start with your polisher depending on the condition of the clear coat. edit: I can't spell lol

Hey! So I am in the exact situation with a furnace, water heater, washer and dryer in the same room as my basement shop.i thought about sectioning off but it would be too much of a pain and not practical. I use a shop vac and dust deputy with every tool I can. I use the belt sander outside. And I've found it necessary to have a ceiling mounted air filtration system. I have [this one.](WEN 3410 3-Speed Remote-Controlled Air Filtration System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wL9LybJ2PNAA8) it works well and you can find it for around $100 if you look around.

Don't worry too much about the furnace. It won't start a fire or anything. I would highly recommend changing your furnace filter or at least checking it every 30 days. Run your air filter and the furnace won't get as dusty. I also recommend blowing the dust out of the furnace with air every year or so to avoid buildup. Good luck.

If it is his first router, I would recommend getting the DeWalt 611PK kit. It is a compact router, but it is pretty powerful for its size. I bought the Bosch recommended in another comment as my first router, and looking back, I wish I had purchased the DeWalt first. I find myself using the smaller router far more than the bigger one. Plus, the entire kit is around $160, so you have plenty of money to get a MCLS bit set and still be way under budget.

Just my 2 cents.

You can get a really nice contractor table saw for around $500. I have this one and I love it. Or a radial arm saw like this. There a a bunch of good brands out there. Just make sure you get a 12 inch blade.

which bosch are you referring to? Why don't you like the of1400? Before I was considering it, I had pretty much narrowed things down to this dewalt.

I have no interest in a festool router table. what makes festool routers not work well in other tables? I'm pretty much ready to pull the trigger on buying the TS55. If I'm going with a festool dust extractor it seemed like a good idea to also get the of1400 for dust collection purposes.

DEWALT DW745 10-Inch Compact Job-Site Table Saw with 20-Inch Max Rip Capacity - 120V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HXT2N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_geUlzbS7H4WS2


I have had this saw for about 4-5 years and I'm continually impressed with its performance. It's small/light enough to be picked up with one arm, yet powerful enough to rip 4x of nearly any material. I strongly recommend it. I had used a Rigid saw before (comparable model) and this saw leaves it in the dust in every category. My 2 cents, good luck on your shopping!

If you have a dual action polisher (e.g. Harbor Freight or Porter Cable 7424 ), then it's definitely worth it to polish. By hand...well, if you've got about a week's worth of time and patience maybe.

If you don't want to make the investment in a dual action polisher or don't want to spend a long time polishing by hand, a wax may be the way to go. Most waxes will temporarily "fill" the tiny scratches, rendering them smoother, harder to see and ultimately making your car shinier. It will only last as long as the wax is on the paint though, which may be anywhere from a couple weeks to 2 or 3 months.

Because polish is a fine abrasive, yes, you can polish your car too often. Your car only has so much paint, and polish works by sanding off a very fine layer to smooth the paint out. As you can imagine, eventually it's possible to sand through the entire clear coat, especially with a heavier cutting compound. The less clear coat you have on your car, the less UV protection it has as well, so it will naturally degrade faster if you don't protect it (which is why applying a protective layer of wax, sealant or ceramic coating is essential after polishing).

Well actually... probably not, at least with my experience using a dremel. My little hand drill works so well because it’s got really great precision on the RPM control just by being really careful with the trigger. I can get great real-time speed control, which is pretty critical. Maybe there’s some other dremel or accessory that I haven’t seen, but in my dremel the speed can only be adjusted with a clunky wheel, and even then, the slowest RPM is too fast. Also, you’d need to get some sort of annoying adapter to actual fit a small enough bit into a dremel...

I really only use the dremel for ‘carving’ type things... it’s just not delicate enough

EDIT: I think that This is the drill I have. It's honestly fantastic.

Dremel 7300-N/8 MiniMite 4.8-Volt Cordless Two-Speed Rotary Tool


Just use the brown one that’s for sanding and start on the lowest setting and move it around his feet only touching him the the end of it,the battery part, To get him used to the noise.
It should last you a good while since you’re only doing his feet. Good luck and I hope it helps :)

It was a $30 deal I picked up from Amazon. The paint is brand new and doesn't need correction per-se - I have the polisher for... well, polishing. Maybe "buffer" is a better term. I have a dewalt random orbital "sander" I use for actual cutting if needed. The cheapo polisher actually works really well for making things shiny though, and I figured it would also work for gently cleaning paint and stripping wax/product. I don't think that's the problem because it was only one panel that had problems shrug

I'm not new to detailing, just coating. I'm more curious how the application will respond to further polishing, and how aggressive of a product to use for that purpose so the entire application won't be removed. Also, how long to wait before doing the opticoat "correction." It seems like so many people have issues with streaking, that it would be easier to just work a post-application polish into the workflow if that gets more consistent results. I do appreciate the comments though.

I will use the "real" tool to carefully re-prep the rest of the car to see if that makes a difference. I was just going with the "less agressive" option to start since the paint is mostly pristine already.

Edit - what I used is similar to this

I really love these bedsheets found on amazon.

Dewalt cordless drills are on sale right now.

I've had these dress belts for a couple years and really like them.

This is the best thermos I've ever had. Use it daily.

I use mine in my woodshop. The small "pancake" porter cable type compressors are pretty awful (I went through two in 3 years, they are essentially unserviceable) and LOUD.

I then bought this Makita

It is AWESOME. Runs great, and AMAZINGLY QUIET, Amazon is selling it for about $200.

EDIT: Did I mention that it's quiet? In my garage I can talk on the phone while it pumps.

Okay. First off, I'm a newb so take my advice with a grain of salt.

Basic detailing goes like this

1. Wash / Dry car
   
2. Clay bar
   
3. Polish [multi-step = (Cutting -> Polishing -> Finishing)]
   
4. Wax (remove)
   
   You can google / youtube for detailed instructions on each step.
   
   I use a Porter Cable for application / removal
   
   For polishing, it can be a multiple levels of polish. Think of polish as a really fine sand paper in a liquid. Wipe immediately any that you get on plastic / rubber.
   
   They make different applicator pads and compound for different levels.
   
   They make buff pads for removing wax
   
   For black plastic /rubber you can use [Mother's Back to Black](http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-6112--Black-
   Plastic-Restorer/dp/B00GZLMEN4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417395899&sr=8-2&keywords=back+to+black)
   
   Buy a shitload of microfiber towels.
   
   You can get 99% of what you need at Autozone. Once you start getting professional, then maybe you need to go online to get the good stuff. I don't know.
   
   
   What you can do is experiment. Wash / Dry / Clay only the hood. Then use painter's tape and divide the hood into four sections. Experiment with the different levels of polish in each quadrant so you can see the different. Experiment with different application removal styles etc until you're happy with the results then repeat on the whole car.

if you're willing to buy new, i suggest going smaller for your first router: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP611PK-Torque-Variable-Compact/dp/B0049ZFUK2

I have a full size Bosch router that has a lot more power but I like my little router much more. It's great for doing freehand stuff (routing out butterflies, small mortises, etc) and should be able to handle any edge routing you want to do.

I’m very new to growing and building buckets (just started to put my first one together), but for cutting holes in the bins I bought this cheap little dremel tool. It’s definitely not the greatest (and I broke 2 bits trying to figure out the best one to use) but I was able to cut almost perfectly circular holes without too much trouble!

Edit: oops, sorry didn’t see the part about UK links, but if you’re interested perhaps there is a UK equivalent product.

> If this this is a POS like your saying then no reason to even hang on to it. Thanks for your input. I think I saw the tab

I figured mine would be great for small projects too. Problem is you need precision with the smaller stuff, which the table saw could not provide at all. I completely forgot to mention that I bought https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCE2-15-Amp-10-inch-Compound/dp/B000V5Z6RG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481037657&sr=8-3&keywords=miter+saw and I'm very happy with it. I wish the saw would raise a little higher but it's been working awesome for me.

Basic freedom kit:

https://www.80percentarms.com/80-ar-15-easy-jig-gen-1/

https://www.80percentarms.com/gen-1-easy-jig-tool-kit/

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP611PK-Torque-Variable-Compact/dp/B0049ZFUK2/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TJ0F7J784GV5Y2QAE3PW

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drills-drivers/drill-presses/8-in-5-speed-bench-drill-press-60238.html

https://www.righttobear.com/cerro-forge-raw-80-percent-lower-receiver-p/80raw-1.htm

You don't actually need a drill press, but I like to have one (for P80s as well). There are higher end jigs, routers, and drill presses (Easy Jig gen 2, 5d Tactical) but these are good enough to get you going. They are what I use (minus that drill press, I have a brand name one) and they work well repeatedly.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP611PK-Torque-Variable-Compact/dp/B0049ZFUK2/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1480055730&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt+router

This is the one I bought. Super happy with it. I mounted it upside down on a table and turned it into a table router. works great.

Definitely check out r/AutoDetailing,

But some quick tips, make sure you get a dual action orbital polisher, not a normal rotary polisher. It's pretty easy to mess up your paint with a normal one if you're not well practiced, but DA polishers are pretty easy to use as long as you pay attention to what you're doing. There's also random orbit polishers, but those don't generally provide enough power to do any serious paint correction...

​

Examples:

Rotary polisher (hard to use): https://www.amazon.com/POLISHFLEX-Compact-Variable-Rotary-Polisher/dp/B004XAN4M4/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-12

​

Random orbit polisher (no power):

https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-10

​

Dual Action polisher (what you probably want...):

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Bosch 1617 evspk

Great router, great build quality. Nice plunge base. Really like the handles, feels a lot better to use than the ones with molded plastic. Depth adjustment is one of the best I've used. Built in above-table depth adjustment if you mount it in a table. Soft start is nice. Variable speed. Motor is a good power, enough for almost any size bit, but not so huge that its hard to control.

Well, you need to find somewhere that sells cheap tools, perhaps a second hand tools place or a garage sale :)


Edit: here are the things you need, these are way way overkill for the job though and will run you about $55 if you get free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/Decker-DR260C-5-2-Amp-Driver-8-Inch/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1463019428&sr=1-1&keywords=drill&refinements=p_36%3A1253528011

http://www.amazon.com/Coolshare-Awesome-Craftsman-61-Pc-Accessory/dp/B0140PDXW2/ref=sr_1_11?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1463019496&sr=1-11&keywords=twist+drill+bits

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-SF100-Wood-Finder/dp/B00020JOFA/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1463019602&sr=8-16&keywords=stud+detector

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-60-100-10-Piece-Standard-Screwdriver/dp/B0000950PN/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463019662&sr=8-6&keywords=philips+screwdriver

Oh! It has to be Neko Case who is a indie-folk artist. She has such a beautiful voice and writes about interesting shit like her great uncle going crazy and being eaten by wolves and the capacity tornadoes have for love.

This may seem like a stretch but I pick it because Neko herself loves doing DIY projects and even renovated a whole barn by herself in Vancouver. I also pick this because there isn't that many things of her's on amazon. :/

Music is life!

I use a worksharp to sharpen all my knives. It works great. If you get one, be aware there is a learning curve. It's a high speed rotary tool so it's real easy to hog off more steel than you want if you're not paying attention. Once you get the hang of it, the guide cartridges make it super simple to maintain a consistent bevel angle.

I haven't used it, but the Drill/Driver alone (not the 3 piece kit) is $59.97 at Amazon and has 4.5 Stars on 243 Reviews, so it seems to be a well respected tool. I wouldn't think it's good for commercial use, but certainly a good tool for around the house.

I agree with the other poster. A router would be great. I'm also beginning at this, and I have a miter saw, table saw, trim router, and circular saw. While the miter saw is fast and easy for crosscuts, it only does crosscuts. A table saw will do crosscuts and rip cuts. The only place where a table saw sucks at crosscuts is long lumber.

A router, however, can be used for edge profiles, dados, slots, rabbets, mortises, etc. A table saw can do dados and rabbets.... But if the board is too long, it can't do dados, and rabbets might be unruly. The only power tool you have that can do mortises is a drill, but even that would be better with a drill press.

I suggest a router. The Bosch 161EVSPK is highly recommended and can be used for basically anything you would throw at it as a new woodworker. It comes in at 220$ but includes both the plunge base and the fixed base. The fixed base can easily be installed in a router table (either shop made or purchased) and you can do depth adjustment from above the table.

Not sliding but very accurate. For trim and flooring this is the best for the price. but a sliding one is ideal, this cant handle a 2x8.

https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCE2-15-Amp-10-inch-Compound/dp/B000V5Z6RG

On Amazon the Wen 2305 and up have pretty good reviews. Same with the Black And Decker one you suggested.

WEN 2305 Rotary Tool Kit with Flex Shaft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_U240xb88A6B97

Are the collets universal?

Thanks for the help.

I highly recommend the Hitachi on amazon, it gets great reviews and its an amazing compound miter saw for the price.
http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCE2-10-Inch-Compound-Miter/dp/B000V5Z6RG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395172421&sr=8-1&keywords=Hitachi+miter+saw

A bit over $150 (currently 189 less 25 for the holiday promotion), but if he needs a good router I've loved this set. Tons of things that you can use a router for in the shop and this one has lots of accessories that cheaper ones lack like edge guides and dust collection.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD

I just use a Dremel Mini Mite though you might need to step up to the next more powerful one for a big dog.

I don't use clippers at all. Too nervous about cutting the quick and generally my dogs have done better with a dremel. I mean they still don't like it but once they get used to it they don't try to get away as much. The only catch is to be careful to not dremel too much as it will get hot and can burn the quick. But on high speed I can take off 2-3 weeks worth of growth in a few seconds (depends on the dog and how hard/large their nails are). Plus it leaves things nice and rounded so it's not as rough on floors/skin.

I looked at way to many of these when trying to find a reasonable sized compressor that could handle light duty paint spraying. I ended up getting a very old 220v craftsmen off craigslist, and a small newer craftsmen for a deal from kmart.

If I didn't need to spray anything and valued portability, this seemed like the best available: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001Q2VK0

The small craftsmen looked pretty similar but the makita seems to have a better motor, though the craftsmen was oil lubed as well. This is the craftsmen, but I think I only paid $60 or so for it: http://m.kmart.com/index-g.html#/productdetails/010W005319735001P?sid=

Another option if you can find one cheap is the smaller roll around Dewalt 200psi one. http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/dewalt-heavy-duty-4-5-gallon-200-psi-heavy-duty-hand-carry-air-compressor-w-wheels

Nah, that looks crazy haha

I use one of these. Super cheap, super effective.

I really like the Bosch 1617EVSPK (currently $200 at Amazon). If that's too far out of the budget, I'd go with a Craftsman 27683 ($125 at Sears).

I think you'd really benefit from the versatility offered by a kit with fixed and plunge bases, as well as the ability to accept 1/2" and 1/4" collets.

WEN ($20) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BYRFH8/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Taclife ($40) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6RH433/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01N6RH433&pd_rd_wg=PJD3y&pd_rd_r=9AWBVZAGWHC8CD634DX4&pd_rd_w=PY0Hg

This Dremel looks nice ($75-$120+). Idk, I'll pay for whatever is best. I want to make sure all my silver is shiny so when I die it will look pretty while my copse turns into worm poo.

I have this Makita compressor and I love it since it is pretty easy to haul around. I would stay away from the brands that you mentioned if you are looking for something you want for the long haul. I think you'll have to choose between portability and power though.

If you want a sports massager, the cheapest best option is probably a Black & Decker car buffer. https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ They work just as well as the massagers and are super cheap.

I have this tool. It has a speed control, so I turn it to slow (ish) for drilling. It has a flex shaft so you can hold the tool end a bit more like a pencil or brush when working. I've used it for cutting and sanding/filing as well as drilling.

I had to buy some extra collets to hold my smaller drill bits.

I will say however that most of what I use it on are metal models (I'm an old-hammerer) and like others have said a hand turned drill may be fine on plastics.

Not sure what your budget is, but a work sharp is a great way to keep your swords nice and sharp.

As someone about to take out some material with a forstner and then take the rest out/smooth it out with a router that I have never used before, I'm now slightly terrified to tackle this project. Before I head into this I figured I would ask a couple questions.

I have a template that I purchased along with the bowl bit. It sounds like one of the issues was that the bearing was not fully on the piece of wood? If I make sure the bearing isn't partially above the template when I start should that be okay? Not sure if I explained that well or am fully understanding the part where you mentioned "mistake number one".

When the bearing was riding up the spiraling lip of the forstner bit remnants, is that something I can avoid by starting the bearing on the template and smoothing everything below before plunging the router a little deeper? For this project I will need to use a collett extension to get the router bit deep enough so it will eventually have to go below the template and ride along the work piece.

Any other tips you can give me before I head in would be great! This is a 2.5 HP Bosch plunge/fixed base router. This one to be exact - http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD - Would it be smart to start on a lower speed? Or would a higher speed be smarter to make sure it doesn't snag on the hard wood? I'm using a combination of maple/walnut glued together.

Sure! First I trace the shape in pencil onto the G10. Then I clamp the original scales down and drill all the holes with a cordless drill. I have a stand that makes the drill into a mediocre drill press. Sometimes I use that. Next I use a combination of belt sander and dremel sanding drums to rough out the profile. I check against the originals by putting the drill bits through the holes so they line up perfectly. I go back and forth, comparing and taking off some until the pencil line is gone. If it has cutouts on the bottom side, like the Adamas, I trace the profil on tape and transfer to the new scales. Then I use the dremel workstation to operate the dremel like a mini mill. The bit I used was a steel cutting tool that is cylindrical with cutting teeth on the sides and bottom. I counterbore the screw heads with a cone-shaped stone grinding bit on the dremel, or sometimes with larger drill bits using the drill, depends on the size. For the texture I pressed the scales into the edge of the sanding belt with a rolling motion. Lastly I finish sand all the edges and large openings by hand with 320 grit sandpaper. Sometimes I use a router bit to chamfer the edges and/or holes. The color looks all weird and whitish, at least with the g10 I have so I paint loctite over the whole thing wipe it off once it dries a little. I also loctite all the screws when I re-assemble. I was messy with loctite putting a knife together and figured out that it made the G10 look like it did before I cut it.

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-220-01-Rotary-Tool-Station/dp/B00068P48O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396740382&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+stand

I use the Oneida Cyclone on a 5gal bucket.


For a standalone, you could go cheap: http://imgur.com/a/qzjIa



Or this: http://www.amazon.com/WEN-3410-3-Speed-Remote-Controlled-Filtration/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1458061256&sr=1-2&keywords=shop+air+filter

Neither is mine, but those could scrub the air well enough to help keep dust contained to that room and help clean it up during/after work. The big dust is messy, but the small dust is the health concern.

A flex-shaft is a great all-around tool, but you'd have to get one that has a drill press attachment for the hand tool for that specific function. The set I know of with that configuration is the Foredom flex shaft and drill press.

You can also get similar functionality out of a dremel drill press that works with most current dremel tools.

I think I may have found a solution:

• WEN 2305-KC Keyless rotary tool chuck adjusts to accept any bit from 1/32" to 1/8", about $7
  
• WEN 2305 rotary tool, about $20
  
  That should allow me to insert brass rod of any pin-sized diameter and make my own pins. I will just need to figure out a way to hold the rotary tool steady. Hopefully it'll fit in my vise.

In my opinion, if this is your first polisher and you're not a seasoned professional, I would not recommend it.

1. it's a rotary (not a dual action) sander/grinder/polisher. Dual action is a lot more forgiving and a lot more user friendly.
   
   
2. it's 7 inches - that is massive for a first polisher. Most people recommend a 5-6 inch polisher.
   
   
3. simoniz doesn't make the most quality products. Their price points are amazing, but the quality of the product usually reflects why their price is where it is.
   
   
4. 10' cord is good if you want to strangle yourself. Using extension cables when working with a polisher is annoying as it can come unplugged by you pulling on the cord or inadvertently stepping on it moving from point to point.
   
   Look for the Griots Garage 6in dual action polisher or the Porter Cable 7424xp 6in dual action. Both can be had for nearly as cheap. I kept the GG polisher in my Amazon waitlist because it goes on sale from time to time for $155'ish which is a steal.
   
   Griot's Garage 10813LNGCRD 6-Inch Random Orbital Polisher with 25-Feet Cord https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009UKUURO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DKqxzbQJ5NVFQ
   
   PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6Jqxzb3VNSE56
   
   Also, check out the wikilinks in the sidebar for recommended products - http://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/wiki/index

I hear you, but there is only one way to get that experience. You don't need a workshop either...

You could do it well with:

• circular saw ($50)
  
• cheap drill press ([$50 w/ coupon](https://m.harborfreight.com/8-in-5-speed-bench-drill-press-60238.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20 provided))
  
• handheld router ([$75] (http://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-ridgid-zrr2401-1-6-hp-laminate-trimmer/rgdrzrr2401,default,pd.html?ref=pla-mobile&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=722&zmap=rgdrzrr2401&gclid=Cj0KEQjwmv7JBRDXkMWW4_Tf8ZoBEiQA11B2frK1GwIs5sOvBFNJc6Fp5FC55fP6LjREXE_W7j_HsdQaAjuc8P8HAQ) + ~$20 for bit kit)
  
• handheld drill
  
• handheld sander
  
  It'll be more than a weekend project with those, but a great experience.
  
  A table saw (~$200+) and/or miter saw ($100) aren't needed, but would speed that up significantly.

Hello,

Professional amateur rollerskier here:

Step 1. Pick up some rollerski specific carbide steel tips such as these


Step 2. Use them and keep those tips SHARP! So many people do not sharpen their tips before they go out to their detriment.

For sharpening I reccomend buying a dremel tool such as this and then using these tips

Step 3. Sharpen often! In my opinion, it is better to sharpen a little bit every time than a lot every once in a while.

I hope this has been helpful!

you could use this to relax your muscles better than any commercial massager can! It is awesome (second link like to videos)


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000077CPT?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

http://www.allthingsgym.com/car-polisher-next-level-self-myofascial-release/

For that price, you can get the Bosch, which I think is a better deal. It's the router I have, and I've been quite happy with it. That said, a router is a router in many cases. I think the Bosch is a better deal as you get the fixed base that you can put in a router table and use the plunge base for all your handheld uses.

Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:

• Lamp I love this thing, and it's silly how much it improved my craft.
  
• Utility knife (Stanley) with many replacement blades. I flip then toss these frequently.
  
• Shovel knife
  
• Beveler
  
• Burnishers
  
• Microfiber clothes
  
• Granite block
  
• Stitching pony (handmade and based upon http://www.instructables.com/id/3rd-Hand-Leather-Stitching-Clamp/)
  
• Awl
  
• Diamond Awl
  
• Wing Divider
  
• Pliers
  
• Craft scissors
  
• Thread snips
  
• Bone folder
  
• Mallet
  
• Cobbler hammer
  
• Ruler
  
• Cutting mat
  
• Detail brushes
  
• Needles
  
• Tokonole
  
• Glue
  
• Glue brushes
  
• 50/50 neatsfoot oil and beeswax (double-boiled)
  
• Heat gun
  
• Ritza Tiger thread
  
• Chisels I use these as pricking irons because they leave a massive hole
  
• Dremel
  
• Bulldog clips
  
  If links weren't provided then I already had the item.

Dremel-like tools can be had for less money than a single one of my 2204 motors. Do yourself a favor and get one cause that tool is really really useful.

Also, ignore the idiots who think that a knockoff is somehow bad. I mean, if you made your living dremeling shit (is that a job? I want it) maybe you need high quality gear, but get the tool that works now and enjoy your awesome motors.

For what it's worth, something like this is what should be installed, depending on the size of the space.

Otherwise, I like the box fan and furnace filter option for cost efficiency.

That looks more like an electric screw driver in a drills form factor.

You might get better results with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Decker-DR260C-5-2-Amp-Driver-8-Inch/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1478633522&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A9060578011

I don't own this unit so cannot recommend - just saying a corded drill will probably work better.

> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001Q2VK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq2dAbFAT770D

I have this one as well and a Porter Cable brad nailer and a couple paslode guns.

That Makita compressor is hands down the best one I've ever used or owned. I'd highly recommend the OP get it and a good gun seperately.

Looks good but it costs a little bit more than I'd like (especially for this project). Do you think this is good?

Oh yeah I'm sure he does. That probably makes all the difference in this kind of stuff. I've done endgrain with my dad's Ryobi planer with 2 flat blades and it works ok. Lots of tear out on the back end of course. I've got my eye on this with this sexy beast. mmmmmfff...

My 618 has been great, and the D-handle option makes it even more useful. The alternative is the Bosch 1617EVSPK, which is also well regarded.

Ya I love this guy and this stud finder. Made an amazing doggy door through my wall to the side of the house for a dog potty area, only took a couple days with the right tools.

No, these are not design for that type of work.. This is a powered screwdriver.. made for making quick work of installing outlets or working with machine screws.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-DR260C-5-2-Amp-Driver/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1454109673&sr=1-3&keywords=corded+drill

There, same price and will do the job.

Also, please be careful when drilling into walls, make sure you are hitting the stud using a good stud finer.. even a strong magnet will do. Be careful of electrical wires, data runs and plumbing drains\vents.

What are you looking do to exactly, hang a picture? Mount a T.V?

Best solution is probably to buy a cheap rotary tool and make your own. I think I paid $3 for a spark plug socket from harbor freight and it took about 10 min with a dremel to cut it up.

Amazon has a cheap rotary tool for $18 here

Still cheaper than buying a premade socket and you can probably find other uses for the rotary tool.

You will want a socket handy anyway, unless you are planning on converting them to ball lock right away. I take mine apart between each batch to clean everything.

If you aren't comfortable with trying to make your own I'd be willing to make one and send it to you if you cover the cost of the socket and shipping.

Sure, probably something like the WorkSharp System would be best, as it doesn't require to hold the knife steadily (just need to press it to one side of the lid and pull through) and will give you good and consistent result every time.

Because of it's structure - it puts a convex edge on the blade, which isn't necessarily bad, as it will lose the hair shaving sharpness quicker than a standard V edge, but will maintain a working edge for a long time afterwards and will be easy to touch up and strop.

So after seeing this I started looking into how to refinish the edge on a knife I've had since I was like 10 and came across a video of a guy using this

http://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WSKTS-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B003IT5F14

Looks super easy to use. Would that work for you?

With what your going to do I would get a 10 inch miter...not sliding. unless you just want to spend the extra money.

(whooops....link removed.....didn't realize we could only link products from blue/orange/amz.)
alternate link....https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCE2-15-Amp-10-inch-Compound/dp/B000V5Z6RG

For the table saw...I would search craigslist and get a full size saw and add a set of wheels to it...like these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223CL

I would search craigslist for the table saw.

There are only a few reasons to even get a miter saw.
Its easier to crosscut long pieces accurately.
You get quick access to a dedicated crosscut blade instead of swapping one into table saw.

Other than that, I tend to use the table saw. Even when I am crosscutting a lot of short material, I use a crosscut sled on my table saw. I only use my miter saw to rough cut and break down long boards.

If I was you I would buy that 100 buck miter and lump that other 200 in on my table saw money, wait and watch craigslist to get a better table saw with a solid top.

I wanted to buy a hand tool, but I couldn't see the logic in doing so when I could get a powered router for the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049ZFUK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was debating on this one and the makita that i saw was recommended. But this one ended up being cheaper on prime day.

Edit: I have never used one of these things. What kind of bits are ideal for woodworking?

You can get a relatively cheap tool kit like this (can't vouch for this kit, just an example) and it is easy to store and has most of what you might need for most small projects.

Along with that I would say that a drill (I have this one, it's great) with a bit set. With those things you can probably do most of what you would need in a home.

You can also get saws and stuff but those are less necessary unless you are trying to get into home improvement and renovation type stuff. The drill and tool kit will do you fine for typical home repair and such.

Replace the switch. You can get good quality switches at Ace Hardware. Make sure you get one that supports enough amps on AC.

You can then hook up a Dust Deputy to any drum or pickle bucket you like to keep the shop vac's filter from clogging as much.

A good dremel kit like this one is perfect :
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-30-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVG/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1452695783&sr=1-2&keywords=dremel

It could be that she doesn't like the sound the clippers make but what I've noticed while working is that most dogs don't like the pressure you put on the nail before you actually clip them because you're trying to avoid the quick.

I'm a groomer but before I even went to school for that I use to do everything for my dogs when it came to grooming, bathing and caring for their nails. When the time came to clip the nails I would slowly put pressure on the nail so I could clip it and avoid quicking them but it would freak them out because I was doing it that way.

I looked up videos of people using peanut butter to occupy them while you're cutting the nails and to take very little bits of nail off in one quick snap of the clippers and when they didn't react to it I would praise my dogs and let them know it was okay. Most of my dogs have black nails so I did it that way and now they're all comfortable with the nail clippers and the Dremel. I kept a routine on them and cut them every 2-3 weeks so not only will they get use to it I can keep the nails short. Now I just clip them and dremel off the sharp corners.

These are the nail clippers and dremel I have and that I personally love. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002ARUKQ?pc_redir=1411784168&robot_redir=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TU0XFU?pc_redir=1411972862&robot_redir=1

You can get the clippers at Petco, Petsmart or pet supermarket and the Dremel you can find in the automotive section of Walmart.

I had to do a double take to check that I didn't post this last night without remembering.

I am going through this same process with the 10x14 attic space above our bedroom. I started off with Plan B and tried a few different methods. Filter bags filled up much too quickly and would have been expensive but they did a great job of containing the mess. I have a Dust Deputy attached to my vacuum which helped, but inevitably, the shopvac would get clogged with insulation that made it out of the vortex. My most recent adaptation was to attach the dust deputy to the top of a 40 gallon airtight drum I bought from amazon and then use some old pantyhose around the shopvac filter. This greatly extends my times between either emptying the shopvac or emptying the 40 gallon barrel. Inevitably the shopvac gets filled first but the pantyhose does a great job of keeping the filter in usable shape.

I did buy a Toro leaf blower/vacuum and it worked well but I didn't have an airtight container at the time so the fine insulation would just blow out from under the lid of the trash can I was using. If you have ANY holes in the tubing, you will have a dusty mess on your hands. I plan on retrying this method on the remainder of my attic in the next couple of weeks. If/when it doesn't work adequately, I will buy some insulation bags from Amazon and that should finish the job for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Deputy-Standalone-Anti-Static-Cyclone-Separator/dp/B002JP315K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496112200&sr=8-1&keywords=dust+deputy

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-1601MB-Polyethylene-Lever-lock-Capacity/dp/B0025QI4XC/ref=pd_sim_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0025QI4XC&pd_rd_r=TWYG0J54TB8HRJBXHVX3&pd_rd_w=L9VJ6&pd_rd_wg=DlIiD&psc=1&refRID=TWYG0J54TB8HRJBXHVX3

I'm not going to try this(or I might) but I think if you daisy chained two dust deputies and two drums, you would be absolutely fine with a shopvac.

I also made the mistake of failing to consider the difficult in mixing the Green Fiber cellulose bales without their machine once I had removed the old insulation. I only needed 7 bags for above our bedroom but man was that a PITA. I used a concrete mixer attached to my battery powered drill and managed to get in a great rhythm but having the machine would have been a million times easier.

Thanks! Does this saw look like something I should get first then that can pretty much do it all?

DEWALT 10-Inch Table Saw, 16-Inch Rip Capacity (DW745) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HXT2N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I8vXDbJJCZ338

Dewalt I got. Love it. Also what we use at school. They get a massive amount of use. Seem pretty bulletproof to me. And, -$15 = more wood, right?

You're talking about this dewalt, right?

​

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW745-10-Inch-Job-Site-Capacity/dp/B000HXT2N6/ref=pd_sbs_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000HXT2N6&pd_rd_r=7f5c7f8c-bc3f-11e8-83e7-0baf9bd39183&pd_rd_w=St9da&pd_rd_wg=jY29z&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=0bb14103-7f67-4c21-9b0b-31f42dc047e7&pf_rd_r=TR5CTK0QQKDY5E70FC84&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=TR5CTK0QQKDY5E70FC84

​

Thanks for the tips on the craftsman, that definitely helps

Don't know if you have a rotary tool already, but I just ordered this one from Amazon. Great reviews and wildly cheap.

I have both of these on my to-print list.

/u/CaptainPain mentioned a drill press one, but honestly for that I really like the official Dremel one.

Look at the WEN kit on amazon. I got one last week for $20 and it came with the snake attachment to let you use it like a pen in your hand. Takes the same tools as a Dremel and even has speed control.
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8

This is a good cheap corded drill, which I recommend more than a battery operated drill, especially for the homeowner or apartment dweller that will use a drill only on occasion. Good luck.

I have both a trim router and a 2.25 hp router (actually 2). If I could only have one, it would definitely be the larger one. Trim routers are great for edge profiles (round-overs, etc), and maybe some smaller mortises, but they can't deal with much more. I also had an earlier version of that Ryobi. It was OK, but even that had difficulty handling bigger cuts, plus it didn't work well in a router table set up. If you can swing it, the Bosch 1617EVSPK is a great package

So full price, the Craftsman is roughly equivalent to this Bosch. How do these two actually stack up and is the Bosch worth the premium over the Craftsman even at the sale price?

EDIT: Just noticed the lack of a built-in dust collection system on the Bosch. Looks like this kit would solve that issue for another $40.

Also, any recommendation on good value bits?

Hopefully you enjoyed the process, so there will be more wood pipes to come from you.

You can get a WEN rotary tool kit for $20. It fits the standard Dremel bits. You'd need to get a set of wood carving bits, which would run you maybe $10. With the flex shaft it's just like using a power knife.

Makita make a pretty awesome compressor that uses compressor oil and it is around 200 bucks.

Link

You could always get him a Dust Deputy, people f'in love those things! Plus made in usa is something most woodworkers like.

Something like this but cheaper may be good as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JP315K

I've have a lot of DeWalt tools and I love them, but I can't say I have any experience with their compressors, just was looking at them since I know its typically a good brand. I saw one Makita in my budget, I just wasn't sure if it was worth the money since its only 2.5 gallons but also only 130 psi: [Makita MAC700] (https://www.amazon.com/Makita-MAC700-Big-Bore-Compressor/dp/B0001Q2VK0/ref=zg_bs_9022396011_14?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R9DMEE93E13TWRMPH908)

In that case, you really should look at either the Rigid 4512 or the Delta 36-725 (either runs $500-600 at HD or lowes). That $200 kobalt saw is not going to serve you very well. I wrote up https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/3j4zl9/intro_to_tablesaws/ to help out folks looking for a table saw. Craigslist can take some time- even if there's nothing now, you may well be able to find a deal if you can wait a while. Set up an automated search that emails you when it finds new matches.

As far as a router goes, I'd recommend http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD over the one you linked, for very similar money.

Car buffers are the ducking best. They’re better than the actual sports massage things. This one specifically https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000077CPT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fruiDbZYQRBV8

I have the Dewalt DW618 and I really like it.

http://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618PK-12-AMP-Fixed-Base-Variable-Speed/dp/B00006JKXE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452215648&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+618

I also recently got the 1 1/4 HP Dewalt DWP611, and I am really surprised by how powerful it is for its size.

http://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP611-Torque-Variable-Compact/dp/B0048EFUV8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452215796&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+611

Amazon has the Dewalt 735x for $544.59. The X is the one with the in/outfeed tables and an extra set of blades. It is a very good thickness planer. There is also a third party helical head for it.

Personally I ordered this one and it's been fine. Granted I am not using the tool a great deal.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BYRFH8

Bosch makes a nice router kit that accepts 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits and comes with a fixed base and plunge base, all in a nice case. I got mine for just under $200 and have since spent an additional $45 for a table insert for my main powered workbench. You can also find refurbs for $150ish.

Bosch 12 Amp 2-1/4 Combination Horsepower Plunge and Fixed Base Variable Speed Router Kit 1617EVSPK with 1/4-Inch and 1/2-Inch Collets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YxXbBbAQJ61KP

Also picked up the Bosch 1617EVSPK kit and have been very happy with it. Only used the fixed base mounted to a router table so far, and has performed nicely. As me again in a week and I will let you know how the plunger base performed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A8DXKXS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494609770&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=corded+dremel&dpPl=1&dpID=416s2AicPtL&ref=plSrch this one looks like it'd fit your needs. The biggest difference in dremels is how powerful they are. You aren't trying to router through inches thick wood or metal so you don't need anything extra fancy. I have found that bit sizes are not universal though, so mind that detail when purchasing accessories.

That polisher isn't ideal for doing paint correction.

One of these is a great starter:

• Harbor Freight DA - Currently $64.99 - Use 20% off coupon (link will probably expire after April 2014)
  
  
• PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher - Currently $117.99
  
  
• Griot's Garage 10813STDCRD 6" Random Orbital Polisher with 10' Cord - Currently $139.99
  
  And no, you don't need to rinse after a polish or compound, like /u/ka14 said. You could do an IPA wipedown before waxing, to help remove any oils left on the car from compounding/polishing.

Here's some essentials that I recommend picking up. They're all a bit pricey, but it's better to buy one pricey set and never buy another than buy ten cheap sets.

Screwdrivers: https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Screwdriver-Lasertip-6-Pieces/dp/B007NLPJN2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501608941&sr=8-1&keywords=wera+6-piece+screwdriver+set

Pliers: https://www.amazon.com/Tools-9K-00-80-Combination/dp/B00KBCM456/ref=sr_1_9?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1501609025&sr=1-9&keywords=knipex

Drill/Driver: https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XPH102-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Driver-Drill/dp/B01L84A470/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501609078&sr=1-2&keywords=makita+drill or https://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DCD771C2-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Compact/dp/B00ET5VMTU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501609100&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt+drill

I have the upgraded version of this (ken onion edition): WORK SHARP WSKTS-I I The New Way to Sharpen, 110 V, Black, One Size https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003IT5F14/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WMRQCbT9QCQSB

It’s pretty foolproof for getting a great edge on almost any knife. It does remove A LOT of metal on the lower grit bands though so you need to use it sparingly. The plus side to this is that if a blade is chipped or damaged, it makes doing repair work easier and faster.

I use water stones on my kitchen knifes because the work sharp can scuff up certain blades and water stones give you more control, but all my tools (axe heads, lawnmower blades, etc) plus my outdoor knives are sharpened with the work sharp. I do think the “ken onion edition” is worth the upgrade, but I didn’t link it because it was slightly out of your posted price range.

Yeah it's this one: https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-220-01-Rotary-Tool-Station/dp/B00068P48O. It's pretty cool and convenient

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46 is a great starter and fairly capable, I still use mine for personal and some jobs.

Just so you know I ordered this dremel for $20 on Amazon and it works great. Time is money!! Halloween approacheth! https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003BYRFH8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I would buy this DA:
http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407291588&sr=8-1&keywords=porter+cable+7424+xp

This backing plate:
http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-4607-Velcro-Backing/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

3 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_102HEX5-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=pd_sim_hi_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NJJRSFYV45X3EWAS3NA


2 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_104HEX5-Hex-Logic-Light-Medium/dp/B0041MVQ4M/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=11TRQVZC789CNJ8EXED1


1 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_106HEX5-Hex-Logic-Finishing/dp/B0042TTIYO/ref=pd_sim_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=08HEKJEWM7H5NRFGAQNH

Pretty sure they are all compatible with the backing plate.

I also have a basement workshop but for sanding/staining/finishing I just do it outside. I have a 2HP Harbor Freight dust collector with 1 micron bag, and I have one of those $140 Wen 3-speed air purifiers which runs most of the time (and which is a purchase I highly recommend!), but the basement only really sees typical sawdust from miter saw, table saw etc. I'd love to be able to do sanding down in the basement but the dust it produces is just way too fine to risk it circulating around indoors.

Edit: link to the air purifier I referred to. Running this thing for a few hours each evening has made such a difference to the air quality down there

yea I have to agree with you there

Heres a great cheap Rotary Tool- https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2307-Variable-100-Piece-Accessories/dp/B003BYRFH8?th=1&psc=1

Home Depot is apparently going to have it in stores soon.

The only advice I really have it just take your time. Also, I tried to make sure I had all the materials that I needed before I got started. While making this knife it helped me to have my tablet with a video of whatever step I was on for a quick reference along with some pictures of what you are wanting your final product to look like so you don't have to search every time you come back from a break. This little tool also helped me out a lot and made sanding the blade and the scales much easier http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IT5F14/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm finding some cheap stuff on Amazon right now, that's why I assumed that I'd be able to get all of this for under $100... For example: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-WP900-6-Inch-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722759&sr=8-2&keywords=polisher

Thanks for the advice on the wiki though :)

This one will be good.

I’ve used this one for almost 2 years and haven’t had a single issue.

I built a stand out of one sheet of plywood and use that. Just YouTube stands and you can find some decent ones you can build out of 2x4’s for practically nothing.

I’ve built some awesome furniture with that saw and it looks like the first one is a remake which is cheaper.

I bought mine because it came with a case and had a nice speed adjustment.

Can't really say I'd recommend a Dremel to anyone though. Don't really think they outperform the cheaper alternatives considering how much more they cost.

For instance I paid more for the Dremel flexible shaft than this entire kit.

They're not that bad to be honest.

Adding something like this would be good too :).

So you say skip it all together and save and that I'm dreaming if I think I'll get a decent tool for 300?

This is what I was scoping out if I did go with new.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HXT2N6/ref=s9_simh_gw_p469_d1_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-3&pf_rd_r=0Z1SJ2MMNX30NFRZRY71&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970567562&pf_rd_i=desktop

And this. Never heard of the brand but reviews are good.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EN2JONA/ref=s9_simh_gw_p469_d1_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-3&pf_rd_r=1JVDAYMDC2V9F8SKTS1P&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970567562&pf_rd_i=desktop

My husband just got this one. He was very choosy, wanted it to be 1/2", cordless, keyless, variable speed, a certain amount of power, good brand, etc. - on the same budget. :) He never likes B&D.

I have a Makita MAC700(~$200) and it is incredibly quiet. You can have a conversation at normal speaking volume with the compressor running in the same room. The tank isn't huge, so I wouldn't use it for sanding or painting, but it's great for the typical DIY'er in a home garage.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001Q2VK0/

I would skip the Harbor Freight tools. If you want a miter saw, you can go with the Hitachi C10FCE2 for $130 new Amazon or $117 from Amazon Warehouse. Or you can get the C10FCH2 for $170 new or $140 Amazon Warehouse.

If you can wait a little bit, you can find the C10FCE2 on sale for $100. I bought mine for that price at Lowes in the middle of June. Amazon had it for the same price at the time.

Of the miter saws you have I would go with the Ryobi 10"; it is better quality than the Harbor Freight tools even if it is not the best quality.

Sweet. Just large enough for the job.

Protip: Move the table away from the wall, get a surge protector (or two), and drape your cords off the back. That'll free up a lot of space. Also, the Dremel Rotary Tool Workstation is very handy.

Yeah for circuit boards, a dremel drill press would probably be great.

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-220-01-Rotary-Tool-Station/dp/B00068P48O