(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best power tools

I'm still a bit of a beginner and I've been working with a lot of the tools my dad has along with building my own set of tools and wood stock.

Here's my mid-range/semi-dream version but it's tools I work with every day:

Probably a bit controversial, but consider picking up a radial arm saw. You can find these used fairly easily and with a little TLC they'll be in great working order. These saws can do everything a miter saw can do with a bit more ease in my opinion. My dad has had his Craftsman since the '70s and is running like a champ. You can check out my thread on it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/7m0w22/any_radial_arm_saw_love/

I will say, you can't go wrong with a quality miter saw though. Get a dual bevel compound miter saw and there's nothing you can't make. My RAS can do this but requires a bit of set-up and isn't necessarily the most efficient.
Look at Dewalt, Makita, and Rigid for these. They'll be at a higher price point, but a Makita Miter Saw might just outlive you (my dad's Miter saw is older than me and still cutting through just about everything with ease).

As for sanders, I highly recommend picking up a Dewalt random orbit sander. I started with my dad's old makita palm sander but the orbital sander makes leagues of difference both in hand fatigue and speed of sanding.

While I recently picked up an impact driver, you honestly do not need one to start off with. Unless you find a deal on a drill/impact driver combo then skip it until you have a job that'll require a lot of driving.
Another point on this, when you buy a battery operated tool, stick with the brand as much as possible. Every company has their own rechargeable battery pack and mix and matching is a pain in the butt!

For a budget, Ryobi works great. Rigid is a step above that. If you feel like going for a higher quality, I'm a huge proponent of Milwaukee drills, impact drivers, sawzalls, etc. I've been using a Milwaukee M18 drill for awhile now and it hasn't let me down one bit.

Probably the next thing you'll need is clamps. Let me just tell you that you can't ever have enough clamps! Harbor Freight sells these phenomenal bar clamps that are amazing for any budget, really these things are awesome. Paul Sellers has a video on these as well as some improvements that can be made to them, too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyKiGmRq3wY
You're also going to want some C clamps. Something sturdy and a cast design. Any time I make a jig for cross cuts or need to hold something to my bench I rely on C clamps or a small set of bar clamps.

Next up, you'll want a good chisel set. I have the four piece Irwin chisel set that comes with three chisels and a mallet and you can't find a better deal for the money. Chisels are great because you can use them to create decorative aspects to a project, flush up an edge, smooth a surface, add a chamfer, etc.

Routers are great, but you really don't need one when you're starting out. Even then, I would say it's worthwhile to get a compact router like a Rigid or Makita for your first one because it's easy to use, you can use it for carving, decorative edges, flush cuts, etc. I have a full sized Porter Cable but I kind of wish I started with a compact router.
The downside of these is that routers can get expensive real quick with the bits and jigs and a table.

If you plan on working with sheet goods, you can't get by without a Skilsaw. I have a Makita Skilsaw that my dad used to basically build the home I grew up in, but I highly recommend going for the Skilsaw brand: https://www.amazon.com/5280-01-15-Amp-4-Inch-Circular-Single/dp/B01BD81BLO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518905277&sr=8-2&keywords=skilsaw
That link is for a budget Skilsaw, but if you have the funds a Skilsaw Wormdrive will probably outlive you if you treat it right!

For dust collection, you could for for a Rigid Wet/Dry Vaccuum. These guys are powerhouses and I've used them for dust collection and even dealing with flooded basements. Home Depot has a huge selection of these, I would go for the midrange option. I have a 12 gallon Rigid and it's perfect for everything I need it for. Alternatively, you could also use an electric leaf blower, which is what I started with to blow out my shop, but this isn't too good for the lungs.

Safety glasses, ear protection, and a decent dust mask are all musts. I use a 3M respirator for any sanding or heavy sawing on my RAS. I prefer this over the disposable paper masks because it's a little less stuffy and easier to wear.

Now here's the budget version:

For about $200 you can have a tool kit that'll just about do everything the above tools can do and it might teach some better fundamentals regarding woodworking than if you start withy all power tools:https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrnohP1V87nCxxFaIJwc6PuvlhqThL0c1

That's a video series from YouTuber Wranglerstar and I really enjoy the videos he puts out. I don't think he's always the most relatable for all audiences, but he really puts out quality content, especially in regards to woodworking. The series I linked to covers some of the tools above, but bundles together a budget build of tools you can use to accomplish just about any woodworking project. Definitely worth the watch!


Lastly, I think your first build should be a workbench custom built to the size of your shop. Run it along the wall, maybe. Now, you can do this with just pine 2x4's and you'll have something extremely sturdy, durable, and cheap. You can laminate 2x4's along their width for a thick top surface, or you can purchase some MDF or plywood and use 2x4s as a frame and the plywood as a work surface.

Let me know if you have any questions! I'll be glad to help!

I'd like to get into woodworking and a have a few tools from being a DIY kinda guy, but I've never actually done any nice woodworking. I've had a bit of experience making some shelves, staining, and such. I need some advice for getting started.

I've got a pretty big workspace and built myself an L shaped plywood table against the corner wall. As far as tools, I've got a drill, circular saw, reciprocating saw (<-all the Dewalt battery operated kind), screwdrivers, and some cheap chisels.

I'd like help figuring out a beginner project. I like all the cutting boards I've seen. Or maybe making some more tools (I've seen mallets and screwdrivers). Something easier, but that I can be proud of when I get done. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I'd also like some advice on what tools I should get next. I'm thinking a table saw would be useful and I've been looking at this one. I realize it's not a cabinet table saw, but I'm not sure I want to shell out that much right now, and I have no idea what I'd be looking for if I were to go look for a used one. I've also been considering getting a couple of hand planes, but every time I see people ask about those, everyone responds with $150-200 hand planes. If i end up rarely doing woodworking, I can see the use of a table saw like the one above, but I'm not sure if expensive hand planes would ever get used. Is it necessary to spend so much on some hand planes? Or would I maybe be able to get a decent quality one for around $50 and then get some wet stones and sharpen it (only found out hand planes were really useful recently so I probably have no idea what I'm talking about here)?

Some additions to /u/iNeedAValidUserName's list (sorry if it wasn't clear, we own the same dogs):

• Dremel was about $80-90. You can find "pet dremels" for cheaper but for dogs especially bigger ones with hard, big nails, you don't wanna cheap out on it. This one was on sale a few days ago and is an example of a higher quality one, unsure if it is still. You can also pay someone to do it for you at about $12 a pop. We got burned on that with our first dog though and are living through the consequences so we are doing all the maintenance and grooming ourselves, at least for a little while, for this puppy.
  
• Training classes are pretty cheap around here in relation to the cost of living because we are blessed with some of the best dog trainers in the country within the Bay Area of all styles of training, and people who have trained under them/use their techniques. I really suggest you take training classes early on, it will make your life so much easier, and if neither of you guys are experienced with dogs, good puppy classes. Sirius is a pretty good school founded by Ian Dunbar and is about $200 for 5 sessions; you can start taking classes as early as 8 weeks old. I usually mention it to novice pet dog owners because it teaches you a lot about dog behavior and stuff like housebreaking. We take classes elsewhere, as we have experience puppy rearing - Deep Peninsula DTC trains on Mondays at Rengstorff Park and has a puppy class which is $90/session. We really like Reena, the trainer there and we were really happy to get a spot there; the class is outdoors though which is an insanely distracting environment. A lot of novice or first-time dog owners can get frustrated in this kind of environment. Our "main" dog training club is Town & Country DTC in San Jose, which trains Thursday nights. We love their program as a whole and they don't have a regular "puppy" class, but a beginner class you can start your dog at 4 months at. It's all the same to me. The trainers for that class are fantastic. Everyone teaches things a little bit differently so it's good to know a few different methods just in case your puppy doesn't respond to one of them.
  
• If you want your dog to socialize with age appropriate puppies it's good to do that while they are smaller as many have size restrictions of 15-20 pounds. Adobe Dog Training hosts it Saturday morning for $15 in Los Altos but we never got to bring our puppy there because there is a size restriction. Places like Petsmart and Costco have them too.
  
• Age-appropriate chews can get pretty expensive. We use 12" bully sticks with our puppy and we bought a huge bulk pack of them before we brought him home for $45 on an Amazon flash sale. Packs that size are like $60 a bag from most vendors. Occasionally they sell them at Costco.
  
• You can probably buy an okay high velocity dryer for around $250 on Amazon. We just want a specific one for our purposes. You can also take your dog to Pet Food Express in Palo Alto and wash em to the tune of $15/wash, or about $12 if you buy them 4 at a time.
  
• I noticed some people on r/samoyeds have been recommending harnesses to you guys for loose leash walking. This is good, but a caveat - harnesses will often times get really pricy because your puppy is growing very quickly. Another thing is that some harnesses do restrict movement or can change your dog's gait in not a good way, so it's good to speak to your breeder about it before buying one. Mine pretty much strongly discourages her buyers from buying Easy Walk harnesses. We are currently training our dog to LLW with a variety of layered training methods so we currently have him only on a martingale collar, no harness, and don't need to use collar corrections. We do go through a lot of cheese, though. Part of the reason for this is because we want him to pull under different contexts in the future and we want to actually have him associate harnesses with it being okay to pull.
  
• Ah yes, tangential puppy damage. My lower energy small dog destroyed my $120 pair of glasses, my $200 handbag, and a custom 100 ft. ethernet cable in less than a week once she started teething. So that is something to have to prepare for. Our dog isn't teething yet and the most he's done is put an inch tear in the shoes I wear to work every day, but we are nowhere near out of the woods yet.

If the bandsaw runs, it should still be useful. You can purchase a new blade if there's an issue with the existing one. The chisels will be fine, but you'll have to learn how to sharpen them. Sharpening systems can be expensive, though.

Otherwise it depends a little on what you want to build.

If I were starting out on a significant budget, I think I'd go with a skil saw, triangle square, tape measure, and drill/driver set. And I'd be thrilled to have a bandsaw & chisels. If you can, buy a good skil saw. Don't too much worry about the quality of the rest.

Those will all be very useful later, too, of course. Might build some sawhorses first and go from there.

A skil saw is really useful for breaking down pallets, as well, in case you plan on making use of them as a source of lumber while you're starting out.

If you want a more specific list, I own these products:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-312-Powerlock-Tape-Rule/dp/B00002X2GN/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387060&sr=8-5&keywords=stanley+tape+measure

You don't need a 25' tape and a 12' tape is easier to use.

https://www.amazon.com/5280-01-15-Amp-4-Inch-Circular-Single/dp/B01BD81BLO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387078&sr=8-3&keywords=skil+saw

That skil saw isn't the best in the world, but it'll get you pretty far.

https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-S0101-7-inch-Square-Layout/dp/B00002255O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387123&sr=8-1&keywords=triangle+square

Just a cheap, basic square.

You'll also want some clamps, no doubt. On a tight budget I'd get some walmart cheapies. They're not great, but they get the job done, and clamps are crazy expensive. You want them to be basically like this:

https://www.amazon.com/IRWINQUICK-GRIPOne-Handed-Mini-Bar-Clamp-1964742/dp/B00002244S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387348&sr=8-1&keywords=woodworking+clamps+hand

But larger (12-36"). And walmart brand is cheaper, I think they're about $3 for a 12" clamp.

Good luck! Ask questions!

If your goals are to do fine woodworking, like interior furniture (that isn't "rustic")...or if your budget is much larger, then you'll be looking at an entirely different set of tools.

Table saw, planer, orbital sander, bandsaw (if yours is no good), bench grinder, miter saw, jointer, in order of importance (to me!). And lots and lots of hand tools. Marking gauge, marking knife, awl, variety of drill bits, counter sinks.

Belt sander, disc sander, jigsaw, router. Router can be way up there in importance if you make good use of it--very versatile tool. I just don't use it a ton personally, and bits can be very expensive.

I do a lot of shadetree mechanic stuff, and my toolkit is relatively small and 99% from harbor freight. Invaluable tools for me:

• Dewalt impact wrench. ($100) Fuck the drill, get the driver and these ($5). This makes zipping things together and apart super easy. Not necessary, but holy shit is it my most used tool. I'm lazy and this saves a ton of time.
  
• 3/8" plastic harbor freight socket wrench. ($10) This is a ton better than any steel wrench I've ever had. Great mechanism, ergonomic, light, non-corrosive.
  
• Bit set ($23) comboed with the impact driver and one of these ($2), and you're set for any screw/socket situation you could possibly have. I use this so much that I should probably have 2...
  
• Breaker bar ($20) for anything that the socket wrench can't handle on its own. Direct competitor to Snap-on for $20
  
• Socket set ($30). I don't think I've ever used anything outside of these besides some small jobs where either a special deep socket or thin walled socket was required. Make sure you get an adapter set ($5) so all your tools can work with any sized sockets. While you're at it, get some extensions ($15) and universal joints ($7). These are invaluable when you need them and very useful otherwise. Usefulness factor makes them a necessity in my book
  
• I love my channel locks ($7). I don't carry box end wrenches. I've never been like, "fuck, I NEED a box end wrench." I think that anybody who needs them is a damn liar. These channel locks are every crescent wrench combined into one tool. They also serve as pliers, wire strippers, etc. etc. I might upgrade to vice grips one day, but these are still my go-to pliers.
  
• Similar to channel locks, some adjustable wrenches ($9) are musts for the same reason channel locks are necessary.
  
• Multimeter for electronics. This thing does it all. I want to say it even does continuity which isn't too common.
  
• non-harbor freight torque wrench ($57). This one is a direct competitor to snap-on as well. There's a 1/2" drive one that goes up to 150 ft-lbs which can get you by 95% of jobs for ($38) if savings if the penultimate goal. I'd splurge if I were you though on the 250 ft-lb wrench.
  
• THE BEST TOOL EVER ($5) Whether you dropped something into the engine bay, need to grab a socket way over 'there', or whatever, this tool is so useful.
  
• Jackstands ($50 for 4) - and any jack. I have a nice racing jack, but it's definitely not necessary. Scissor jacks can access tight areas, but bottle jacks are more reliable. I don't care what jack you use, use jackstands BEFORE YOU KILL YOURSELF in the stupidest way possible. Boaters use lifejackets, construction guys use hardhats, mechanics use jackstands. These are your personal protective equipment and they are designed to save your life. Make sure it's rated for your vehicle and carry 2 if you can, but carry at least 1 if you have any inclination to get under your vehicle for any reason. The average person might not need one day-to-day, but the average person shall not go under their car without one. Rant over.
  
• OBD 2 engine communication device ($17). I can read and clear engine codes using my phone. I can check O2 sensor voltages, I can check battery voltage, boost pressure, vacuum pressure, my 1/4 mile time, etc. etc. etc. This tool is extremely useful. I consider it necessary given its pricepoint and utility.
  
  ​
  
  I don't believe I've missed anything. These are my automotive essentials and are valued at $360 new. Skip the convenient impact driver and you're at $260. I want to make it clear that you can do 99% of any vehicle work using these tools and these tools only. Whether you're changing your tires or dropping the transmission, these will get you 99% of the way there. Most of these have been side-by-side compared with professional grade tools and are very competitive performance-wise. Cost wise, it's no contest. These tools win.
  
  ​
  
  Jackstands

I didn't like the pet-geared dremel, because the form was really clunky. It's shape and size was really awkward to hold against my dog's paw. They have this flared base to accommodate the battery that makes it feel unbalanced and unnatural in the hand. Did a little roaming at the hardware store and found this other Dremel branded tool. This is my preferred dremel and it's so amazing. Although it is more expensive (regularly $80, but I saw it go down to as low as $63 earlier this season):

1)it is very comfortable to hold. My hand doesn't get any fatigue using it. It's highly reviewed for people doing non-nail trimming applications because the form is so good in the hand.

2)It comes with a nifty charging station.

3)It has five speeds vs two. If you're still getting your dog used to it's nails filed, this low speed is mellow.

4) Comes with lots of other 18 accessories for other applications, making it versatile for other things around the house or projects.

5) It's pretty quiet (see video demonstrating it's sound level).

The next time you're at a hardware store, I'd recommend looking for the Dremel demos and holding it in your hand. The better shape alone vastly improved the design for dremels. Go try it out. It will feel like a dream in your hand.

A limitation of the dremel micro and other cordless dremels is that if you have multiple dogs (because you're a groomer, breeder, handler), I'd be afraid of this model running out of power. For that reason, I imagine this model wouldn't work for them as well when a corded one does the job without energy issues.

I've been contemplating getting a cordless screwdriver for doing stuff around the house - things I don't need to go grab my drill from the shed to do, so I've been looking at a few on amazon. Most are stepping up a couple of levels price wise on the pictured drivers, you are looking at around $100 USD.

​

The only one I've used is an old Panasonic model, which I'm surprised, they are actually on amazon still. We have a couple of these at work, and they are great. They are nicad batteries, and while the batteries in the ones we have don't last too long these days, we have several batteries for them, and considering the drills and batteries are probably at least 15 years old, I really think they are top notch drivers.
https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-EY6220N-Cordless-Battery-Rechargeable/dp/B005AZ39LM

​

I'm surprised no one has linked to the milwaukee drives like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Screwdriver-Tool-Only/dp/B00VYNEEZO/

I haven't used them, but I'm sure they are top quality being milwaukee. I don't know too much about them though.

​

There are more options out there, like the dewalt gyroscopic driver - The tool looks good, but I'm not sure about the gyroscopic control, I personally would just prefer a trigger.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF680N2-Gyroscopic-Screwdriver-Battery/dp/B00DL7QDS2/

​

I was eyeing off the Hitachi / Metabo one on US amazon, as i have some amazon credit, but the chargers aren't universal chargers, they are 110 only :(, so i would need to find a local charger, which would add up cost wise pretty quickly

https://www.amazon.com/Metabo-HPT-DB3DL2-Screwdriver-Batteries/dp/B07L78Y72J/

​

​

Hopefully those options are useful for you. I'm interested to hear other peoples opinions of them.

Dremel is a name brand for hand held rotary tools. I have and have had several so I will give you my .02

Vacuum powered - You connect it to a shop vac or other vacuum and the suction powers it, while this may sound good on the surface I can't see this having anykind of power from this I suggest avoiding it.

Cordless - Battery powered, I have had several. You get less torque than with a corded version, and they run down. I do have their new micro version and I like it so far, but cordless will always be a balance between power and battery life.

Corded - Best bet IMHO, get more features for less money than with the cordless and do not have to worry about waiting for one to charge.

Suggested Features -

• Do not stick with a single speed version, go with variable speed. In fact the more speed options the better IMHO. Different bits require different speeds, for example a cutting bit needs to run quicker than a wire brush.
  
  
• Multi Tool chuck - Some bits come in different diamters, this one will take them all. I love this and have replaced the old style chuck on all of my units.
  
  Bits - This will depend on what you want to use it for. I use my Dremels for everything from mixing epoxy to cutting and sanding everything (metal, wood, foam, fiberglass, etc). You can get more for your money if you buy a family of bits in a kit (example) but a few bits I have found most useful are:
  
  
• Sanding drum - then you buy the different sleves that slide over the tip and come in different grits. Again look for kits.
  
  
• Cut off disk - Go for the re-enforced ones like this
  
  
• carbide disk - Love this thing it cuts wood and softer material very well.
  
  
• carbide bits Come in many shapes and sizes, I find that they work well for shaping wood and softer materials.
  
  NOTE Like most power tools, a rotary tool takes a bit of practice, they can get away from you and eat up material (including your jeans and leg) if you are not careful. I have found that 90 percent of the time a light touch.. pull back.. and light touch.. pull back is the best method.
  
  edit: spelling and format
  

So air nailers actually take very little air... Especially anything besides a framing nailer. Brad nailers, 16 gauge, and 15 gauge all take surprisingly little volume.

The other air tools you mentioned, especially the sander, take a lot of CFM, but I'd you want something that just works well for nailers I would strongly recommend the senco 1 gallon. It is damn near silent, and super light. Easily keeps up with a 15 gauge nailer.

I actually purchased the 8 gallon hotdog Husky compressor you linked (still have it) and then bought the senco because I needed to work in a tiny attic. I have literally not used the bigger compressor since I bought the little, super quiet one.

Just saying judge your needs and realize how nice it is to be able to grab a 20 pound compressor super easily, plug it in and use it 30 seconds flat.

Senco PC1010 1-Horsepower Peak, 1/2 hp running 1-Gallon Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AQK78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LG22CbXV7RXKK

Can you afford to drop $110 on a proper workspace? If so, buy the following:

• 48" x 24" Folding Table
  
• 2 x Swing Arm Desk Lamp
  
• Power Strip with 6' Cord
  
• Screws
  
• Zip ties
  
  

1. Use a power screwdriver to attach the two lamp bases to the corners of the table.
   
   
2. Photocopy the underside of the power strip. Using this photocopy as a guide, install 2 screws into the underside of the table and then attach the power strip to the underside of the table.
   
   
3. Insert the first lamp into its base and plug it into the power strip. Gather up the excess cord and secure it with a zip tie. Repeat with the second lamp.
   
   
4. Plug the power strip into a wall.
   
   Congratulations, you now have a 4' x 2' workspace with excellent lighting that is easy to disassemble and tuck under your bed or against a wall.
   
   You can store your paints in a lidded box, such as the ones that most GW vehicle models are sold in. When you have more money to invest in a workspace, I recommend picking up a paint organizing system. I personally use The Rack Paint Master with an additional small straight section. This nearly perfectly reaches from one end of the table to the other, leaving a large area in which to paint. The nice thing about the Rack is that it splits apart for easier storage. Still will take up some space, but it's nice if you need to put away your entire workspace.
   
   As you expand your collection of tools, you can add a micro dremel, which is super useful (especially if you have to pin lots of metal models), and you'll already have a place to plug in the charger.

If you decide you're ok with trying freehand, this is what I use.

Smith's 50448 6-Inch Diamond Tri-Hone Sharpener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C0MKNEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nMVIAb4WAFXJV


I sharpen my knives that I use and also for my family and friends. I've been very happy with this since it condensed what i needed. I also have a leather strop. I recommend picking up a rat or cheap spyderco, practice on it, then move to better knives. You can then gift the now super sharp knife to a friend

Around the house, go with Hitachi bc its cheap but contractor grade is Senco.

The tiny little Senco compressor is awesome. It's a few bucks more than a bigger compressor of lesser quality but it is well worth the money and it's super light. It can easily keep up with a brad nailer and will work just fine for a trim nailer if you don't mind waiting a few seconds after a series of shots. (Do yourself a favor and tape up the soft handle material with half a roll of electrical tape.)

After some research, I recently purchased my first jig saw: B&D BDEJS600C with 5 amps and 4 variable settings. I was really surprised with the power it packs. There is a trigger lock but can only be locked once the trigger is fully engaged. The only thing I really dislike about it is the blade lock but after messing with it for a few minutes I was able to secure the blade. Overall I feel this saw is great for the price. Currently on Amazon for $34.99 and Home Depot for $37.99.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OJ72LHK/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o1_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://m.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DECKER-5-Amp-Jig-Saw-with-Curve-Control-BDEJS600C/206144814

I figured the blade the saw came with was going to be trash (it is) so I got a pack of Bosch T5002 T-shank blades. These blades are great and I should have went ahead and bought a couple packs for future use. Amazon for $12.99; Home Depot for $12.59.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000TZZVA/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o1_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-T-Shank-Jig-Blade-Set-10-Piece-T5002/203747310

Hope this helps. Sorry for the mobile links.

I bought the 12.5" planer a couple weeks ago when it was down to $208 (after which it ended up dropping all the way down to $186). Well worth it imo - the next best alternative is the ~$380 dewalt 734 which is most likely produced by the same company in China (though likely to better QC standards).

So far so good. I haven't used it a TON but it did an excellent job planing soft wood. I did plane a piece of hickory with some pretty gnarly grain, experiencing some tearout, but I can't say that was unexpected.

I've since picked up the 4214 Drill Press for $145. Overall pretty impressed with these products given their price.

> And yes, you had better believe that I would gladly use a beauty of a skilsaw like that:)

I like the part where the housing is live at mains and requires the grounding wire before grounding pins existed... Better not use it in the rain <3

Also, you have to consider, things were hand built. Hand milled. There were very limited automation, if any.

Which means


A. Expensive as hell to produce quality.

B. Things were beefed up to deal with variances introduced from human errors

Today, it's 95% fully automated with high precision and tight tolerances. Which allows manufactures to reduce materials to get the same job done while reducing the cost drastically.

I looked up the prices for circular saws in the 1940's. Can't find archive for the Model 77, but I found this sweet catalog for power tools, including the model 520 circular saw. Look, it costed $60 in 1940's. Sweet, it costed the same as a new one today!

Oh wait, better account for inflation.... oh....my... $1,000 in today currency. LMAO

Give it another try with bigger stones, sir. These are usable for knife sharpening, but not forva beginner. Way too small a surface. The diamond credit card size ones are intended for skis and snowboards. For an experienced sharpener, these would be a fine lightweight camping/glovebox kit. I'f I were to give a suggestion, take the proceeds from this and buy one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Smiths-50448-Diamond-Tri-Hone-Sharpener/dp/B00C0MKNEE

I've recommended it to dozens of sharpening noobs, and lots of them have messaged me stuff like "Dude, this tri-hone is exactly what I needed to learn. Thanks for the heads up". Best starting bench stone for the money out there.

Yes, those hex bits will work in a regular drill chuck, or a hex chuck.


I'd recommend getting this set, with an impact driver and drill. Impact drivers are generally easier to use for stuff like screwing in screws, and you can leave the drill for drilling. You'll want a drill with a regular chuck so you can use regular drill bits in it. I've never been a fan of the hex drill/drivers, I'd recommend getting an impact driver instead.


Hex shank drill bits are usually not that great. The Bosch ones are probably OK, but generally round shank drill bits are better, and by far more common.


Bosch makes good tools and good bits. I think you'll be happy with them.

Sorry in advanced that this is so long! Tl;dr - your set up looks good overall.


Personally I would go with a cheaper compressor (One that has a tank) and spend the difference on a booth (You can get the exact same one as the Master Airbrush Brand on eBay for like $50 with the hose to blow out a window.) I went with this compressor. For one, it's cheaper, and two, it has a tank so it omits pulsing air. I ran into that problem with my old compressor. This will cause uneven spraying out of the airbrush. I'm sure for most people it's not a problem, and I know many that have that exact compressor you listed and like it. So ultimately, that's your decision. The downside to the compressor I listed is that you will need to get a hose, and adapters. I also bought another moisture trap for mine that has a regulator on it which required an extension piece I got from Lowe's. Another plus side to the compressor i have is that I can use it for other things too if needed like blowing up giant pool floaties and it's strong enough to put air in a car tire if I ever had to. It's fairly quiet and has an auto off switch, I live in an apartment and have never had any neighbors complain about it.


The cleaning kit, you'll need q-tips, microfiber pipe cleaners suited to clean out tobacco pipes, and dental picks like these. I bought the Iwata cleaning kit and those were the only two things I used from it. Waste of money imo. The cleaning solutions depends on what kind of paints you're using. I just use paint thinner for the most part because I already have to buy a bunch, not really gonna hurt to buy more to use it for cleaning my airbrush. But again, that's your decision. Also get some airbrush lube. I recommend Paasche lube because it doesn't gunk up and is a bit thinner than the iwata stuff. In total, I spent about $220 on my entire airbrush set up and I'm quite happy with it.


Ultimately, you go with what you want/like/budget. I'm sure you'll like the set up you have listed if you go with that, I just had to be pretty frugal about what I bought and what I needed, but wanted the best bang for my buck so I spent about 2 months researching the things I would need and want.

I worked as a warranty field service technician for Dell for half a year, and probably the best tool purchase I made was my DeWalt gyroscopic screwdriver (https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF680N2-Gyroscopic-Screwdriver-Battery/dp/B00DL7QDS2). A lot of people are (rightly) wary of using an electric screwdriver on electronics, but that electric screwdriver in particular is actually really well suited for the task — the gyroscopic control scheme makes it super easy to control precisely and gives plenty of feedback, plus the clutch actually goes down far enough to be useful.

Honestly, get a Black and Decker RTX. I had a Dremel for 15 years, LOVED it. IT's a fucking fantastic tool, probably the most used in my garage, (which includes a table saw, chop saw, router and table, RO sander, finishing sander, multiple drills, circ saw, etc. etc. etc. I have a lot of tools).

But then it died, and my sis got me an RTX. It's got a more powerful motor than even the most expensive current Dremel, (two point something amps, IIRC). It's got a really nice hands-free bit changing mechanism. It's infinitely variable, (Even though it says "3 speeds) in speed up to the max.

I've used current wired and wireless dremels, (get a wired one, by the way...much more juice), and my RTX beads them hands DOWN.

First thing that amazed me was the instant spin up time. With that powerful of a motor, when you switch it on, it's instantly doing 35,000 RPM. It's nuts. Don't let the low price make you think it's cheap. It is one SOLID tool.

Edit: Looks like list may not be showing so here are the components:

Airbrush: Iwata Plus C dual action
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I9WXOKVZTYMO3

Compressor: Not sure which one to get?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AQK78/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I10JZK102OKEGV

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=IOQHMHZT48RDP

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001738DXU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I3DYP4EJGJ9917

Spray booth:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2TESUQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I2LP8DLJI9UTR9


I'm currently in a studio apartment and in med school so obviously I'm tight on a lot of things, but I would like to get into airbrushing.

I've heard the iwata was good, but I'm confused about the compressors b/c I want something quiet so I chose a couple (two of them look to be the same). Also, instead of making a spray booth I wanted to save time and just get a pre made one.

If I order the iwata, a compressor (Are the ones I've chosen any good?), and a spray booth will I be set? Since I live in a small apartment I'm planning on using acrylics to be safe. Just to clarify, I've read the faq and other threads about airbrushing but wanted to see if this particular setup is any good.

I'd never use an impact for that - mostly machine screws? I just recently shopped for and got a screwdriver and I feel like I looked at most of what's out there. Its sort of neglected by many tool makers. Here is what I found - more than likely you're looking at a 12v tool, I don't recall even seeing an 18v screwdriver (which is essentially a drill driver with an impact-like quick change chuck).

Milwaukee does have the biggest range - but I see you've not had the greatest experience with them. The single speed driver is limited to 500rpm as you've said, but they make a 2 speed, brushed, and brushless which may serve you better. If I was going to use one all day I'd get the brushless. You may already have some batteries and chargers, so it may make sense to stay Milwaukee. Plus you could get a 1/4 or 3/8 12v ratchet on the same battery which may be useful to you.

Other offerings are few and far between. DeWalt has a decent 12v screwdriver, but its only brushed, it uses a slide pack which makes it a bit bulkier, but the hand grip is a better shape as it does not have batteries in the grip - may be better for your hands.

Makita used to offer a 12v screwdriver in its white compact pistol grip platform, but its hard to find anymore. They don't seem to be doing anything with this line, as they also have their slide-pack 12v line, and I think this is just going to die on the vine.

Bosch seems to be paying attention to this however. They have a nice 2 speed driver, but brushed. They also make a right angle driver for tight spaces - same 12v battery. And they just started offering a 12v drill driver with interchangeable heads - so you can have drill chuck, a hex chuck, and offset hex chuck, and a right angle adapter. If you don't want Milwaukee then I think this one is your best choice.

Ridgid does not have a screwdriver in their 12v pistol form factor, but their drill is noticeably smaller than Milwaukee's and I suppose you could put a quick change chuck into the regular chuck - but makes it longer. Not brushless either. They do have a clever palm screwdriver on the same battery for tight places.

Beyond that - Metabo? Hitachi? Panisonic? I did not look at them.

Okay, that's a broad question you are asking.

First you need a brush. Get a double action. I recommend either the badger patriot 105, or the iwata neo for your first brush.

You need a compressor. I used a cheap one off amazon pretty well until I upgraded to a larger California air tools silent compressor.

You want a moisture trap as well, plus an air hose.

As far as paints go I really like the Vallejo model air and game air paints. The game air paints have very vibrant colors, whereas the model air line is more like real camo colors from WW2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004INERK4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452252&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=iwata+neo&dpPl=1&dpID=31GV4HFiqIL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LYHYHEA/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452308&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=california+silent+compressor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQO8W4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452347&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=iwata+hose&dpPl=1&dpID=41K8ruY-CAL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SAO7QI/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452388&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=1%2F4+to+1%2F8+npt

Buy quality tools. I suggest staying away from craftsman as they don't hold up and are basically junk. Keep an eye on Craigslist. I picked up a $1000 jet table saw with an exacta fence and a built in router table for $100. For your table saw I suggest investing in 2 good blades and a dato set. All 3 should run you less than $200. I like Freud blades. As for routers most are going to recomend one with a 1/2 collet but I would hold off on that at first and pick up a multi speed palm router. I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR20EVSK-1-Horsepower-Fixed-Base-Variable-Speed/dp/B000ANQHTA I absolutely love it and I know they hold up to heavy use. You can make a table for it with a peice of 1/4 Baltic birch of mdf core ply. As for a sander a 5in random orbit is a good starter sander and they can be affordable. Chisels are easy to come by, keep an eye out at garage sales- you can allways sharpen old ones and typically they are better quality than the crap sold at the big box stores anyway.

I am a finish carpenter and cabinet builder, my little business builds train tables and can be found here: http://www.modelrailroadbenchwork.com

While I can't provide any input on the products you have listed, I picked up a bosch 12v pocket driver at a pawn shop a few years ago. I can't say enough good things about it. Even tho it was used I have never had a single problem out of it or the drill and impact it came with for that matter. Very strong with 2 different speeds. Batteries charge quick. Feels great in the hand. A fine tool worthy or consideration for sure. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003BEE12U?cache=7b30bc03ac566f4bc333a8334bd29bb2&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1414192396&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

I have this Bosch trim router, and I have been pleased with it.

It is pretty light weight, and I like the way the design of the base allows you to easily handle it with just one hand. Bit changes are easy, and height adjustment is smooth and convenient.

I haven't had a need to adjust the speed, so I think if I were to do it over, I might have considered getting the one without the adjustable speed.

I use it primarily for round over and chamfer, but I also use it for skinny dados (like for a drawer bottom).

One thing to remember is that these pony routers only accept quarter inch bits, so if you have been collecting quality half inch bits, you will need to re-buy any that you intend to run in these machines.

It doesn't come with any dust collection ability, but there are a variety of add-ons you can buy if that is important to you.

The right tool is a moving fillister plane, or a rabbet plane. Bad ones suck. Good rabbet planes have skewed blades and nickers and cost 5-6x as much as the options you linked above.

Here's a wooden one that I wouldn't mind using.


And a metal one that I'm planning to purchase soon.

I use this to cut rabbets now. It lacks a nicker + is not skewed, so it does a mediocre job at cross-grain rabbets. Generaly, when rabbeting cross-grain, I start out by using a carcase saw to perform the cross-grain cut, then use the plow to clear the waste. At the end, I come in with a skewed chisel or a scraper to leave a clean surface, since planing with a straight blade across the grain tends to leave a bit of a mess. It's a lot of work--all of the options that you linked will have the same shortcomings, since they are not skewed and lack nickers.

The only plane in your list that's truly made to cut rabbets is the Stanley No.78 copy. The rest are better described as shoulder planes or router planes.

To quote Schwarz on the 78, "After working with a No. 78 for years, I concluded that it does its best work in softwoods that are going to be painted and displayed in dimly lit rooms." Yeah. It's that bad. To add insult to injury, the modern copies are usually worse than the originals.

It's likely that the most cost effective solution here is to buy a $99 trim router like this or this and a straight bit. Both of those come with edge guides. TBH, even with a lot of nice hand tools in my shop, I reach for little routers like these all the time for quick rabbets/grooves/etc. They are incredibly cost effective and really nice to use because they're so small/light.

Yes! I really like barrel grips, too, because it gets your hand closer to the work so it's easier to control. Also, the ergonomics (at least on this one) are so nice! :) The standard ones you find in the big stores have 'top handles'. I don't like them as much. Thin handle, and if you think about it in terms of lever-arms, your hand rests a whole lot higher than the body, and a little bit behind where you can get your palm on a barrel grip. I find it's easier to make mistakes with top handle ones.

Just my opinion, so still worth researching to see what you like.

Yea, I use it all the time for lots of things besides the occasional cleaning of my desktops and laptops. Such as maintaining the air in my tires, cleaning the garage, cleaning the inside of my car, and dusting yourself off after doing the yard etc. You might look into just getting an electric air pump if you don't much need for a compressor other than cleaning electronics.

• edit - oh I thought you said would you recommend. I dunno what air compressor would work best for you. The one I'm using is pretty old. I usually just go on sites like amazon and google shop and read reviews when I want to buy something decent.
  
  This: http://www.amazon.com/Viair-00073-Heavy-Portable-Compressor/dp/B0012WHBSO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1345955120&sr=8-6&keywords=air+compressor has decent reviews
  
  as well as this: http://www.amazon.com/Senco-PC1010-1-Horsepower-1-Gallon-Compressor/dp/B0000AQK78/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1345955120&sr=8-12&keywords=air+compressor
  
  not sure what exactly will work for you.

I did use a drill press. And even then not all the holes lined up perfectly. I be to do some fine tweeks at the end. I'd say either find a buddy with a drill press or save up and buy one. Some aren't all that expensive. Drill presses come in handy. Good luck with you build. This Or This

I just got a new DeWALT tool too, my first table saw!!

DeWALT DWE7491RS

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F2CGXGG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My next tool might be this planer but really I think I should get a nice bandsaw before getting a planer (correct me if I'm wrong). Me thinks hand planing will be nice.. something that's actually done by hand and not some electronic.

If you already have invested in a brand of cordless tools looks for whatever your brand offers, most higher-end brands usually are pretty comparable these days.

I've used the milwaukee m18 impact for a while and I've had much better luck with it than I've had with air tools on a too small compressor. A quick search shows Dewalt and Makita both have equivalents that are probably quite good as well.

No worries! Below is a link to a circular saw by Skill (or you can search “circular saw” on amazon. It’s one of the first results and is just over $60). It’s kind of the bread and butter of circular saws. It’s the one everyone has. It’s the one I have (minus the laser)! Good saw and it can be used for a whole lot of stuff. Different tool than what is shown above, however. The posted tool is a planer which helps make boards a uniform thickness.

skill saw

Edit: After reading your comment again, he’s definitely asking for the circular saw; however, if you’re already buying tools and want to buy more tools, a reciprocating saw would work way better for something like cutting through a wall. It’s a good general purpose tool as well (I’d stick with the circular saw if you’re only getting one though).

reciprocating saw

I have a little different take on this. What you want is a Bosch 12V combo kit. It has both a drill/driver as well as an impact driver. They share batteries and a charger:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GT0IWK/ref=psdc_552734_t1_B0046ZRYPE

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046ZRYPE/ref=psdc_552734_t1_B005GT0IWK

These are perfect for around the house. I use them almost exclusively for work, too. Incredibly powerful for their size, and I can't stress enough how useful an impact driver is.

This is a pretty good and affordable setup for freehand sharpening: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C0MKNEE/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1E3EJBUYUU4DD&colid=3CMSBL1HL0JX0

I'd recommend spending some time watching YouTube tutorials on freehand sharpening as well. There is a ton of good info out there on the various techniques and approaches to sharpening.

A circular saw is basically an electric motor with an on-off switch, so they're pretty durable and for most purposes they're interchangeable. That particularly model is a 13 amp motor. You might want to consider getting the 15 amp version for the additional cutting power but honestly you'll probably be fine with the 13 amp version.

If you're doing any sort of fine woodworking you're much better off sinking money into a good blade. (As the Shop Talk suggests.)

I don't think you'll find anything decent in that micro size. Most of the good ones are 1/4" hex drive.

I've tried the Dewalt 12V, the Hitachi 3.6V, and the Makita 12V.

The Makita was my favorite and that's the one I kept. Most people in R/C like the Hitachi the best because the clutch has a slightly lower setting than the other 2. My Hitachi arrived with a defective power switch, so I returned it. I like the more traditional gun style of the Dewalt and the Makita, which also have the variable speed trigger. The Hitachi was just too long and cumbersome.

The Makita has a 2-speed gearbox and a better (lighter) clutch than the Dewalt. That's why I kept the Makita.

Do you plan on using drill bits more often, or driving fasteners more often?

If you are fastening, get an Impact Driver:

https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF885C1-20V-Impact-Driver/dp/B01LBT3AZU?sa-no-redirect=1

If you are going to be drilling more often, you could get a cheap corded drill, or either of the drill drivers you linked.

I find that even the hardest drilling tasks, a cheap HF drill works fine. It's going to be as good as the drill bit, basically... But fastening takes a quality tool, and it'll depend on the strength of the anvil as well.

That Impact that I linked hits very hard, and it's an amazing tool.

I love my Dremel's and use them for many things around the house. Here is a quick general rundown of my opinion. Avoid the one that can be powered by a vacum like a shop vac. Corded Dremels will have more torque than the battery powered ones. The first cordless I had I did not like, but the new one I love. As for corded, I believe the largest difference in models is the number of different speeds. I suggest going with one that offers a large number of speeds, as different materials require different RPMs to cut effectively. Let me know if you any other questions.

to expand on this.

you'll want to buy a cheap powered router, a straight bit, a couple of clamps and HEARING and EYE PROTECTION.
i can't stress those last two enough.

once you've done that,

1. you'll want to install a wide-ish straight bit into your router.
   
   
2. mark off the area you want to route (make the marks on the waste side, where you're cutting away, or the other side, but be consistent).
   
3. set the router so the bit won't cut, but you can see it in the flat shoe on the bottom. you want to line the edge of the bit to your line, then mark where the edge of the router is.
   
4. you want to clamp your metal brackets to that line as a straight edge and guide.
   
5. don your eye and ear protection. it's going to get loud.
   
6. take a ruler or use the built in guides to set the bit to the depth you want (1/8")
   
7. double check your clamps are tight and the edge guide is straight. measure both sides of it, don't eyeball.
   
8. place the router on the work with the bit hanging off the edge. then turn it on while steadying it with your hands.
   
9. cut along the guide and any remaining bits from the edge until you have a nice level area for your bracket.
   
   i recommend practicing on a bit of extra wood. get the idea down and then do it on your final piece.

Dewalt 12v Max ¼" Screwdriver. Compact, easy to handle, quick bit change, the belt clip is awesome, and the batteries charge fast. Just enough power to get the job done without trying to handle a full size drill. Has 3 LEDs around the ¼" chuck to make it easy to see in dark spots. Pair this with a magnetic bit to hold the rack screws and you're ready to go.
Amazon link

What is your budget?

Here is my suggestion. Forget about getting hand screw drivers; IMO, waste of money unless if you are an electrician or need to pry something, they are bulky and waste time. I would suggest spend a few extra dollars and buy a electric screwdriver like this or an 12v impact like this with a bit set like this. Bit sets are great because your don't need to gave a bucket of screw drivers laying around and you with have every bit you need in a small form factor.

If our budget is tight check your pawn shops often and look for NEW or LIKE NEW versions of these tools. You can find them for cheap. Remember these tools will last you forever.

It is indeed. It is absolutely fantastic for the money. Variable speed, 12" swing. I changed the chuck out for a Jacobs style tool-less. It's not high end Jet, but its not $1500 either.. :) I have a mill when I need to do super precise stuff anyhow.

This is it on Amazon

The built in laser is a gimmick, but the built in light is nice.

Get yourself either a 12v or 18v makita set. Depending on how much you plan to use it, you can decide if you want the 12 or 18. My dad for work used the 18v, me as a condo owner using it maybe once a month got the 12v. I like the way the size feels in my hand. Not sure which of the 12v is the newer model. I got the white one, but i like the way my dad's 18 feels in my hand more. So i would probably go with the green 12v but i didn't see it when i got mine.

Makita CT200RW 18V Compact Lithium-Ion Cordless Combo Kit, 2-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M9D5L3M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_bLsIxb83GZV9Y

Makita CT226RX 12V Max CXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Combo Kit (2 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195M1MTQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_oMsIxbM94EBR1

Makita LCT209W 12-Volt Max Lithium-Ion Cordless Combo Kit, Black, 2-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CQ1RGI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_8NsIxbNVQSXG5

Well bare tool DeWalt is $204 on amazon. That's $199 with coupon. Sure it comes with a battery, but I got plenty of DeWalt batteries.

The DeWalt one also seems like it will have a long production run and is super popular, so I'll be able to buy parts, and broken ones to use for parts for years to come.

Call me crazy, but I like these Bosch 12v tools over any 18 or 24v tools I've owned. They're still powerful, but they're also lightweight and keep their charge for a long time. It means anytime you reach for them, they probably have a charge. I've linked to the impact driver for a reason: if you're going to be building a fence, do yourself a favor and get an impact driver.

Yeah, you could look in to smaller bench top models of table saws and jointers, lunchbox planers, etc.
Ive seen people create some pretty cool work areas out of small spaces.
The downside is with smaller tools comes less surface to reference your workpiece during the cut, less power and dust collection...
These are some smaller "budget" tools that I've heard good things about:

Benchtop "Lunchbox" Thickness Planer
Benchtop Jointer
Benchtop table saw
Benchtop Drill Press

I have the BLACK+DECKER BDEJS600C Smart Select Jig Saw, 5.0-Amp. For a budget saw, it's pretty good. Most of my projects involve a jig saw in one way or another, and it's served me well so far.

Holes saws are great and have their place, but the impact/ spade bit combo seem to be the ticket for 90% of my uses. Also, I didn't bother to look up what drill you have before, but now I see it's a newer dewalt. Get an impact driver, the difference is night and day. And if you don't have a spare battery, it's super convenient to not have to wait for a recharge while working. Bare tool $70 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ML7GDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1484804561&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+driver&dpPl=1&dpID=415uG8%2BV3dL&ref=plSrch

Or with battery $100

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LBT3AZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484804561&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+driver&dpPl=1&dpID=51oJlJzJjIL&ref=plSrch

I've had these makita 12 v for 2 years, still going strong on original batteries with everyday use. compared to my workmates' milwaukee and bosch, they feel the lightest and most balanced. i do envy the milwaukee battery meter, but overall am very happy with the makita 12v combo set for drilling and driving.

For 18v, I've had this Dewalt XRP 18v for at least 6 years. It's heavy, so i don't use it nearly as often as the 12's, but it gets used often enough on the more demanding jobs like hammer drilling or large diameter bits.

Regarding corded drills, I typically only use them for the heaviest jobs like mixing concrete and grout. Otherwise, they're either way overpowered or just uncomfortable

12v would be more suited for light duty mobile work like that. 18/20v would just be extra weight to haul around. Here is a good comparison of the different 12v drills: http://www.protoolreviews.com/buying-guides/best-12v-cordless-drill-roundup/25102/

I've got the Bosch drill and pocket driver and love them. Almost never use my 18v Dewalt tools any more. They reviewed the brushless version. I went with the brushed because it has more torque. $168 for the combo https://www.amazon.com/CLPK22-120-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Batteries-Charger/dp/B005GT0IWK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473956737&sr=8-2&keywords=bosch+12v

To be clear, this is the type of 120v air compressor you need to seat a bead.

You can get 12v car ones with a remote tank, like thisbut they’re designed to be permanently installed in your vehicle.

But, if you don’t have any other need for an air compressor, you’re probably better off with a pump designed for seating tubeless tires like this one.

Yes, Allen/hex keys are retarded to use. You can use a powered screwdriver and a nice one is this:

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS21-2A-2-Speed-Batteries-Charger/dp/B003BEE12U

Add bits, start with the little 1" ones that you use a holder with:

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-16061-61-Piece-Bit/dp/B002YKBDO6

Get a bit ratchet for real tight spots:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6

Also a tip: with particle board furniture like Ikea's, use a bit of wood glue in the screw hole and on the screw before insertion. It makes it go in easier ;) and also keeps the particles from breaking apart. It doesn't form a permanent bond so disassembly is still easy.

I agree with others that for the tasks you've described, a compound miter saw is the tool. However, if she has no power tools, then another key thing to get would be a 12V battery powered drill and impact driver set (that share the batteries) like this extremely good one.

While this might not be what you are looking for, I recommend a cordless screwdriver: http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF610S2-12-Volt-4-Inch-Screwdriver/dp/B0043XX872/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&srs=2588375011&ie=UTF8&qid=1393984525&sr=1-6&keywords=dewalt+cordless+screwdriver

I worked for 3 or 4 years before getting one and wow it was a game-changer for certain projects!

Hey man sorry for the late reply. I use These. They are awesome. With the big battery the impact lasts forever. I've only charged it about 5-7 times in he last year. The 3/8 one can pull off a lug nut tightened to 80 ft/lbs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WTQW7JA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486534851&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+impact&dpPl=1&dpID=51H9HKF-8WL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007NVSQEQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486534851&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+impact&dpPl=1&dpID=416tDAhussL&ref=plSrch


Hope that helps.

suggestion:

1. Bosch barrel grip jigsaw - more money but the design allows for great control
   
   
2. Bosch progressor jigsaw blade - similar costs to nice blades from milwaukee, dewalt, etc. progressor blades cut so fine that I don't sand afterwards. not exactly a necessity on an outdoor fence, but if you're doing the work you may as well get the cleanest cut possible.
   
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-JS470EB-7-Amp-Barrel-Grip-Jigsaw/dp/B004323NQ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397758986&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+barrel+grip+jigsaw
   
   

Not many have ever worked with a g pro wired pcb, but if you need to make the the pcb smaller, you can trim parts of it (I like to use hand nibblers) or cut parts off entirely and jump them with wires.

​

Also if you're not on there already, join /r/mousereview discord, the modding channel is pretty active.

I have a dewalt but it’s the $500 one that comes with the rolling stand. It’s been really good. Seems to stay square and can accept an 8” dado, although I haven’t gotten one yet. It might be worth the extra money. I know you say you don’t need a stand but if you have limited space, it’s very handy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F2CGXGG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524355924&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dewalt+table+saw&dpPl=1&dpID=51Kr7wFoSFL&ref=plSrch

Sure, for most of the ornaments I used the Pfeil 9 series (9/4 and 9/5 mostly). They are very well made and hold their edge for a long time.

I have a flexcut strop - I keep using the honing compound quite frequently. Also get yourself an small set of diamond stones like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Smiths-50448-Diamond-Tri-Hone-Sharpener/dp/B00C0MKNEE/

Yes, this is a much cheaper option, just need some labour hour:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I33UG8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_vN.pzbPA9WWVN

This'll probably work too: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KL4UI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_6O.pzbMNCAMXZ

To save some time, this will do the trick nice and fast: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LBT3AZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_YQ.pzb7E4XC6F

Best hand power tool option is a Bosch jigsaw. I could probably make those drawers with one. I prefer the barrel grip model http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004323NQ4?vs=1

If you want quiet, give this one a try. If the size isn't big enough, they have larger sizes as well but their sound levels are great.

https://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-CAT-1P1060S-Compressor/dp/B01LYHYHEA

It's not quite $15, but I have one of these and it's built like a tank and really powerful for the price.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC

Don't use a Dremmel with the mb still there.

Get a nibbler... I've modded many cases with one similar to that. Nothing fancy, usually just making room for a replacement PSU.

Doesn't leave any debris and makes nice clean lines. Most of the cases i worked on looked like they were made that way afterwards.

I use a black and decker dremel knockoff. It's bulkier, but seems pretty well built and is about half the cost. Works with dremel accessories too. https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC

I have a few of These and they are fantastic. They come with two batteries and have really good speed control and adjustable torque settings. I even used this with a PH1 to take apart and re-assemble laptops. I have never stripped a screw.

There's a sale on a 12v Makita drill and impact driver right now for $100. That's honestly probably perfect for what you'd need.

Makita LCT209W 12-Volt Max Lithium-Ion Cordless Combo Kit, Black, 2-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CQ1RGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zw2xzbV68DWX8

SKIL 5280-01 15-Amp 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw with Single Beam Laser Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BD81BLO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gnuBzb5NNEHDQ

I'm sure there are better circular saws out there but for $60 I've been completely satisfied.

Light weight.
Some kind of illumination.
Small size.
Variable Speeds on the trigger.
Variable torque is also highly desirable.
Less power than you think you really need. 6-15v
Too much power and you tend to strip screws.
Long bits, or a 6 to 9" bit extender, so you can get clear of cable managers.

Dewalt @ $99

Milwaukee @ $129

We used to have a big honking 24v Dewalt brute. But you just don't need that kind of power to put screws in a rack. You're not drilling into a cinder block, or Mahogany or something. And you're always one-arming them, while you hold the device with the other hand, so if it's too heavy it will fatigue you pretty quick. And that's no good if you've got a fresh pile of routers, switches & load-balancers to rack in the next 2 hours...


-----

Edited to change the Dewalt link to a complete kit that actually includes batteries.

No worries happy to help.

As far as a dremel goes, I got this and this to take Dremel tips. It works amazing.

Yeah, I was in your exact place when I first started. It doesn't have to be anything special. I just now upgraded from my $120 Ryobi after 4 or 5 years, and it was only because I didn't feel like replacing the belt when it started to slip. You can most likely find a set of used US made HSS bits at an estate sale or flea markets.

Here's the one I bought and it's very nice. The speed goes from 580-3200, and has a digital readout for the spindle.

$1500USD for a saw with a stamped aluminum body and table, rickety base using wheels for half its contact with the ground, direct drive? Maybe I'm missing something. It looks like most other jobsite saws like this DeWalt.

Edit: it appears that I was indeed missing lots of somethings. Thanks for the education :)

Based on the picture she sent me I’m pretty confident it’s this one

I have this little guy from Wen. IT works fine for wood and light metal use, but it's nothing heavy duty, you do need to be cognizant of it's limitations. It's also not variable or have a worklight, though I think the latter is easy enough to set up. I don't remember what I paid for it, but it wasn't the $90 currently listed on Amazon. Edit - just looked it up, bought it for $70.

Make sure to get one with variable speeds. I use mine a lot, so the finer control comes in handy. If you just need a tool that will get the job done, Black & Decker make the 3 speed RTX-B for about $30 and it works great.

More important in this case though is to have a proper plastic cutting/shaping tool. The trick with plastic is removing the material without melting all of it. They make special cutting bits for wood and plastics, which honestly I wish they'd made a lot sooner. It'll still melt some of the softer plastics if you go too fast but is miles ahead of the high-speed steel cutters..

Will these be flat TVs, or CRTs?

I only worked on flat screens, my kit:
0, 1, 2 Philips screwdrivers, 5/16" and 1/8" flat screwdrivers, A small 1/4" drive socket set with standard and metric sizes, Nylon spudgers (these are great tools for all sorts of things, buy them by the dozen), A small crescent wrench, Torx drivers T-5 to T-30 (security), Metric and standard hex key sets, Needle nose pliers, Locking hemostat or forceps, 5mm nut driver (for VGA screws)

A small rechargable torque limited driver also makes life WAY easier. I used this one: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS21-2A-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Batteries/dp/B003BEE12U/

I got a Black and Decker rotary tool last October and its amazing, variable speeds up to 30,000 rpm. it was a gift but purchased from target for around $29.99+Tax Than picked up a 249 piece attachment kit from harbor freight for $21.99+ tax

So far it has handled every task I've had from sanding wood pipes to carving channels for air flow. Even a few sculptures. The links below is exactly what I'm working with.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC

http://www.harborfreight.com/249-piece-rotary-tool-accessory-set-93243.html

I must had posted in the wrong section.

I did some research on gunpla before I got ready to invest into it.

So I was wondering what airbrush should I pick up as a beginner.
I'm looking to use these airbrush for everything and finer detailing on models.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BROVIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451755063&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=badger+20+20&dpPl=1&dpID=31BZaLebDGL&ref=plSrch

The iwata eclipse is a recurring brand I've seen on bunch of blogs and seems to be the most popular

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQKFAI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451755023&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=iwata+eclipse&dpPl=1&dpID=41EIKj727OL&ref=plSrch

So which one should I buy? Can anyone recommend any of these?

Last at least the air compressor and other parts.
I've also seen this recommended on one blog:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AQK78/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Apparently it's better then a hobby's air compressor cause of the constant air flow you will get?
I was wondering what kind of hose and connectors I would need for either the badger or iwata if I picked up the air compressor.

Sorry for any spelling or grammar mistakes in advance as I'm typing on my phone.

Ah, okay. This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/WEN-4214-12-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B00HQONFY6 and the speed adjustment is awesome.

Similar boat as you. I'm eyeing the WEN 4214 12-inch bench top model. Seems to have good reviews and easy adjustable speed. My understanding is that it's not just cutting power to the motor which is nice too. Curious to see what others think of it. Also a plus is you can get it from Home Depot (online only) but at least return it locally if it doesn't work out.

http://www.amazon.com/WEN-4214-12-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B00HQONFY6

I got a Black and decker jigsaw for $30 from amazon and it's been awesome, check out the reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BDEJS600C-5-0-Amp-Jig/dp/B00OJ72LHK

Buy from the source http://www.shoeboxcompressor.com/order/compressors/freedom10-shoebox.html.

Agree that you need a small compressor for the 1st stage, but many people into this sport already have one for some reason or another. I use this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYHYHEA and it's a great low cost garage compressor and 1st stage for the Shoebox.

I just got this one for Christmas and coming from the cheapest Skilsaw model to this is like night and day. This cuts through wood without slowing down and little strain on the motor. It comes with a non-marring sole plate and a little snap in piece that surrounds the blade that reduces splintering.

I'm very pleased! This is the barrel grip version, they have a top handled one too, but I think the barrel grip gives you more flexibility and fits in tighter places.

Bosch JS470EB:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004323NQ4

Mixed, got a 300 or so piece set from craftsman, hated the ratchets that came with it so got 82 tooth craftsman ratchets, love their handle shape, craftsman screwdrivers pliers are a mix of channelock, chinesium, and lisle specials. Fluke 88v that I've used once... , dewalt for cordless tools, use my 899H Every day and drop it way more then I should, thank god MAC makes this got a US GENERAL to store tools at work, even tho my Husky worktop or Husky Doubletall would be better, there isnt room for them at my job.

I remember you. A man after my own heart. You can also use a cheap nibbler to make any cutouts you need. But I generally avoid them and use standup transformers and hard mounted power cords with strain relief.

step bit usually does a good job, you could also get a drill press if like this one.

I'd 100% agree with the other answer here that a drill isn't the right tool for the job.

An impact driver, despite being called a "driver" is also much better than a drill for removing bolts too, with much more torque - they're not just for construction. The only reason I'd go for a drill over an impact driver is if you also do a lot of drilling that the B&D can't keep up with, although I'd note that you can get drill bits for an impact driver too.

This DeWalt is the same price as the drill above, with 3x more torque

I have a set of makitas that fit nicely in my hands. I built a bed with the impact driver last week. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CQ1RGI (on mobile, sorry)

I own a Bosch PS21 that I use every day at my job as an apprentice electrician. It has adequate power for everything I have thrown at it. I use it mainly as a driver. It drills quarter inch pilot holes in electrical boxes with no problems.

With the addition of a 4ah battery it will stand up on a flat surface and ride in a J-hook on my tool belt. The battery casings are ABS instead of nylon but so far have survived the inevitable drops.

I am buying a unibit with a 1/4" hex shank soon, not sure if that little drill is up to the task of running it but I will give it a try.

Bosch PS21-2A 12V Max 2-Speed Pocket Driver Kit with 2 Batteries, Charger and Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BEE12U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WTj6Bb1AWKPMK

Edit: added amazon link

I did mine with a $25 brad nailer from Amazon and 2" brads. It depends on how much you have to do. If you are a DIY person and can think of other uses for an air compressor (paint guns, tire inflation, cleaning, etc), I'd say it's worth it. I have this little baby air compressor and I love it because it's very light/portable and quiet. If you just have a single piece you can probably get away with a hammer but be careful of denting/marking the board. If you're doing more than say 10-20 linear feet of board I'd use a nailgun.

I got this one. It's been working pretty well for me so far. Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.

I like this tool a lot, it works really well and goes when I need it to.

DEWALT DCF680N2 8V Max Gyroscopic Screwdriver 2 Battery Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DL7QDS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8sFPyb38GPDTY

I use a nibbling tool for stuff like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Nickel-Plated-Nibbling/dp/B0002KRACO/

To use it, mark the outline of the cut, drill a hole slightly bigger than the square cutter head, then insert the tool in the hole and nibble up to your line. With just a little practice, you can make perfect square and rectangular holes.

Yes tiny details can be hard! Depending on how small it's going to be, my suggestion would be to use a nail file and/or a dremel. Epoxy may not be needed for small things like that.

If you have access to a drill press, and patience, you should be GTG. I've also seen tabletop stands for a power drill that give you the vertical axis control of a drill press without the need to buy a big-ass tool.

e.g.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FZB3HQC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1521483655&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=portable+drill+press&dpPl=1&dpID=41tNr6DyFiL&ref=plSrch#


Edit: This a little bit more, but probably takes up a lot more space in an apartment, unless you have a spare room for an office/workshop/den/bar/etc... room that I wish I had.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HQONFVE/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521483655&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=portable+drill+press

I use this Makita set. Super lightweight and can get into many small spaces.

This is the Bosch variable speed router I have & it works a treat. Just remember that any router is typically too fast to be effective at cutting metal but fine for wood & plastics.

You'll want to have a 6-in-1 screwdriver, a 12V drill and impact driver and some pliers:

• Tongue-and-groove aka channel lock style
  
• Needlenose
  
• Lineman's
  
• Diagonal cutters aka dikes
  
  For the hand tools it doesn't matter what brand you get if you won't be using them every day. For the drill and driver I'd go with 12V Bosch or Milwaukee. This kit is cheap and reliable or you could go with this kit if you have use for the compact sawzall.

Pretty much anything.


1
2
3

I'm sorry to hear it, that sounds very sad and it must be tough to try to get her to a confident and happy place (although it sounds like she is in a very happy place living with you!). I imagine changing owners must be really hard on a dog also, especially one that is as glued to its people as dobes usually are, which could maybe make even previously normal things scary too.


I have this dremel (with the sander, not the pumpkin carving tip, of course...) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B015DVN4E4/r - the smaller rechargeable ones like this one still make noise but they're quieter than the big plug-in full size Dremel.

Me too I have the Bosch 2 drill set Bosch 12-Volt 2-Tool Combo Kit (Drill/Driver and Impact Driver) CLPK22-120 with two 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Batteries, 12V Charger and Carrying Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GT0IWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JrxYAbAJ30R23
They have been wonderful so far

Have you looked at the Dewalt 8V gyroscopic screwdriver. It's very bizarre at first but after a few days it's very nice to use.

http://youtu.be/nggZn2kwsoI?t=519s

We're doing a bunch of Ikea cabinets on one of our properties. I went with the 12 volt Dewalt screwdriver kit. It's light enough that my wife can work with it without getting worn out, the torque is adjustable and it comes with two batteries so we're never out of a charge. It's worked great for the Ikea stuff and I've also used it to screw in two and three inch #8 flathead wood screws any number of times without any issues.

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WTQW7JA

I've never had a nut that it couldn't take off. I've used it in everything from taking off lawn mower blades to nuts on my tractor and implements.

Some of the bolts on the implements you could barely tell there is thread with how rusted they are. Good luck on the future.

I got my saws mixed up, I meant a "jig saw" like this. It's probably the cheapest and most useful electric saw you can buy. (You'd also need to drill a hole to get the cut started, though.)

Drill a hole, then use a jig saw. It'll save you so much time than doing it with those mill bits.

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BDEJS600C-Select-5-0-Amp/dp/B00OJ72LHK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=saber+saw&qid=1562101007&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Well, they didn't lie. It can create a pressure of up to 100 PSI and it can output up to 4 CFM.

However, what we need to know is how much throughput it can maintain at a given pressure level.

E.g. this one can do:

> 1.60 CFM @ 40 PSI
> 1.20 CFM @ 90 PSI

So, at 30 PSI, it can probably output around 1.8 CFM.

And this one can do:

> 3.00 CFM at 40 PSI
> 2.20 CFM at 90 PSI

Which means it would be an excellent choice.

There is only one cordless grinder on the market that is worth owning. I'm not just being dramatic. To be useful, a grinder needs to pull a lot of power and one tool puts the rest to shame, that tool is the DeWalt 60 volt grinder. DeWalt also has a 1/2" brushless impact wrench which accepts the FlexVolt battery from the grinder. (Note that the grinder requires the 60v battery, which switches to 20v when used in a 20v tool).

Actually not that much. I probably spent around $20-25 in lumber for all four shelves (I just got some cheap pine at Lowe's). Wood glue and paint was another few bucks.

The expense really comes with the tools. I didn't have a drill press, so I bought a relatively cheap one on Amazon ($75), which actually worked amazingly well (https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-4208-5-Speed-Drill-Press/dp/B00HQONFVE/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1521416744&sr=1-4&keywords=drill+press). A 2" drill bit will also run you about $20. Fortunately, I already had a sander and some sandpaper laying around.

So, short answer: One shelf will probably cost you around $10-15 in materials. However, there's a lot of additional costs if you need more tools. Also took quite a bit of time marking and drilling all of the holes. I put the design in the Imgur album, so feel free to make your own if you so desire!

If you don't mind, I'd actually advise picking up one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416532678&sr=8-1&keywords=Black+and+Decker+dremel

The motor is higher quality and higher amps than a Dremel, so it lasts longer, and wont burn it's self out if you start using it. Uses all the dremel accessories too! :)

WEN 8 Inch Drill Press

It's pretty good for the price. I will likely upgrade at some point but for now it's just right. I use it all of the time now that I have one.

I have the M12 Fuel driver. I've had it for about a year and a half I think and haven't had any problems. A single battery will last about a week with the brushless impact driver.

But Makita also has a pretty nice setup, not quite as powerful and they're brushed, so not as "fuel efficient," but they are a little bit smaller than the M12 driver.

I guess Bosch makes a nice smaller one, anyone have any experience with this router?
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR20EVSK-1-Horsepower-Fixed-Base-Variable-Speed/dp/B000ANQHTA

Yeah, sounds like you've eliminated things down to a problem inside the compressor itself.

TBH those types of compressors are practically just repackaged aquarium pumps, and IMO aren't what anyone should use. Even when they work, they top out at such a rock-bottom low PSI and CFM that they're basically unusable outside of one or two VERY narrow use cases. For model airbrushing, you want something a little bit stronger.

The Iwata Ninja Jet is WAY overpriced for how inherently limited it is. Return it, and get something like this or this instead (I use the latter, and can vouch for it).

More like 30, a million is a bit of stretch too, I'd prefer an angle grinder myself.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1376520055&sr=8-6&keywords=dremel

what else would i need to add to these tools

Tools needed


Drill press

http://www.amazon.com/WEN-4208-8-Inch-Speed-Drill/dp/B00HQONFVE/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1422478362&sr=1-1

80$


Angle Grinder

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-4-1-2-in-Angle-Grinder-9557NB/202105761

70$

Cutoff wheel and flap wheel

10$

cabinet makers rasp
http://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Half-Round-American-Pattern-Length/dp/B006P2X4Q4/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1422479106&sr=1-4&keywords=cabinet+rasp

20$

bench vise

30$


also from what i understand when I am making the blade do I just grind it so it is thing and sharp at the bottom and thicker on the top??

I had a cheap Campbell Hausfeld and a pancake. Totally worthless. It had good power for like 3 seconds as others say.

I had the enjoyment of removing a pitman arm off of my '74 Corvette earlier this year. I invested in a DEWALT DCF899HB 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench with Hog Ring Anvil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LoiRzbYFQV4AR

Oh man is this impact is dangerous. If a nut wont give, it'll snap the stud instead. Ask me how I now. Plenty enough power for me.

Stew Mac's tang nippers are really just a slightly modified hand nibbler tool with an astronomical markup. The older model was a modified Klein #760113 nibbler with a half moon groove for the fretwire cut out just before the blade. Klein discontinued that tool which is why stew mac is switching models. There are still a few places that still have some stock. Here is one.

http://planetools.com/products/76011b-klein-tools-sheet-metal-nibbler.

You can file your own groove in the Klein with a good set of needle files and some patience. I'll emphisise the word patience here because the deck is hardened steel.

Allparts has a set of nippers stock. If you have an account they are half of retail. ($70 vs $140).

https://www.allparts.com/LT-4246-000-Fret-Tang-Nipper_p_2217.html

You can also modify the cheapie nibblers off Amazon but longevity might be an issue.

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Life-360-022-Nickel-Nibbling/dp/B0002KRACO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1521051617&sr=8-4&keywords=nibbler+tool

Dewalt DCF680
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF680N2-Gyroscopic-Screwdriver-Battery/dp/B00DL7QDS2


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxntkScF37U

Perfect for a range of tasks from racks to driving screws into mounting board.

15 Clutch Position Settings.

The LED light stays on for 15 or 20 seconds making it usable. Just tap the trigger.

1. Cordless Driver http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF680N2-Gyroscopic-Screwdriver-Battery/dp/B00DL7QDS2
   
2. RJ45 EZ Crimper http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1423770419&sr=8-3&keywords=rj45+EZ+crimpers
   
3. Heavy Duty Scissors http://www.amazon.com/Clauss-18081-Titanium-Adjustable-Ultraflex/dp/B00270XY1I
   
4. Folding Box Cutter http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWHT10035L-Folding-Retractable-Utility/dp/B0051QIBGI
   
5. USB Serial Adaptor http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-USA-19HS-High-Speed-supports/dp/B0000VYJRY
   
6. Flush cut snips http://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-2178M-Heavy-Duty-Shearcutter-Diagonal/dp/B002M6U5JG/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1423770726&sr=1-10&keywords=flush+cut+pliers
   
7. RJ45 Couplers http://www.amazon.com/Connector-Modular-Network-Coupler-Adapter/dp/B00K836DHI
   
8. Fiber cleaning Tool http://www.fiberoptics4sale.com/p/6210MF.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAgKu2BRDu1OGw3-KXokwSJAB_Yy2Qe4jogMWd-DK7Gz5p5LfMkTCwda6IBgaEzluP7vm-ARoCl-7w_wcB
   
9. Hex bit set http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2166-45-Piece-Screwdriving-Set/dp/B002JWSNIS
   
10. Light Meter http://www.amazon.com/Optical-50dBm-Locator-Male-LC-Adapter/dp/B00D6BVRN4
    
11. Multitool http://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Cybertool-Pocket-Knife/dp/B00005ML8H
    
12. 1m SingleMode Simplex x8
    
13. 1m SingleMode Simplex x8
    
14. 1m SingleMode Simplex x8
    
15. 1m Multimode Simplex x8
    
16. 1m Multimode Simplex x8
    
17. 1m Multimode Simplex x8
    
18. Fiber Couplers SC/LC x8

Depends on what they own, but I use my jigsaw all the time and it was cheap. I shorten the metal downspout, and have done tons of woodworking. Works well in drywall too. I have the previous version of this one.
BLACK+DECKER BDEJS600C 5.0-Amp Jig Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ72LHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eP4aAb0HP1N2T

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CLPK22-120-Lithium-Ion-Batteries-Carrying/dp/B005GT0IWK


Here’s a cheap, capable drill/driver combo.

Have you looked at something like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KRACO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RpyFybR6T1D4B

Yeah, I'm starting to think the Hitachi is probably garbage. Which is a shame because I love everything else of theirs I've used.

As far as the Bosch, I looked at that one too. I was able to get that one tuned in nicely, but the big dewalt has more rip capacity, which would be nice for handling sheet goods. I know that was one of the things I hated about the HF saw was how little rip capacity it has. With the fold out wings on the Dewalt it's still compact but the rip capacity can be up to 35". This one's the big boy dewalt https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWE7491RS-10-Inch-Jobsite-Capacity/dp/B00F2CGXGG?sa-no-redirect=1

Granted the 25" Bosch capacity is still 9" more than than the HF saw, so there's that.

If you plan on driving screws more often than drilling holes, I'd recommend an impact driver instead of a drill/driver. I have the 18v Bosch combo kit: impact and drill/driver, and I find that I use the impact weekly but the drill only gets used every now and then.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS41-2A-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Batteries/dp/B003LST02W

Getting both in a kit isn't much more.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CLPK22-120-Lithium-Ion-Batteries-Carrying/dp/B005GT0IWK

As far as brands, it's hard to go wrong with Bosch, Makita, DeWalt and Milwaukee. Pick whatever has the best price this week.

I use this guy, lots of power, not heavy, not too fat if you are working around stuff, I really like it.

Bosch

Edit: I imagine this would be even lighter, but I've never used it.

Nothing special. Its one made for finish nailing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AQK78/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Its fairly quiet and anything with a tank helps with moisture and pulsing.

For an extra 30 bucks, this works surprisingly well

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-4208-8-Inch-Speed-Drill/dp/B00HQONFVE

Go to a pawn store or craigslist and buy two named brand saw for the price of one good new one. Use one for the driveway/masonry work, the other for woodworking.

To test them, spin the blade/arbor. Is it smooth or are the bearings clunky/shot? Turn the saw on, motor still sounds strong or is it struggling even with no load? What's the condition of the casing/shoe/plate.

If you're dead set on buying new off amazon then whats your price range. Corded or Cordless?

Skil makes a good entry level corded.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BD81BLO/

Personally I'll never use another corded circular saw again.

2" travel, half the price, good reviews: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQONFVE/

(I just got this one but haven't yet unpacked it, so can't speak to if it's actually any good.)

a nibbler is worth investing in

A = 24 1/2"

B = 20 1/4"

C = 39"

D = 26"

A and B were hard to measure and eyeballed but I would say within 1".

There is an answer on the Amazon review with slightly different measurements: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F2CGXGG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Forstner bits.

A Drill Press like this one would allow you to control the depth of your cutting, accurately to within a millimeter.

DEWALT 20V MAX XR Impact Wrench... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Was originally 249.99 but it went down to 205. Not a crazy deal but made me finally pull the trigger.

Just FYI, the Makita 12V drill + driver combo kit is only $100, making this right on the same price point, so it's really not a great deal or anything.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-8050-N-18-Rotary-Accessories/dp/B015DVN4E4/ref=sr_1_12?crid=1GBB19K4MW2HE&keywords=dremel+tool&qid=1572760512&sprefix=dreme%3B%2Caps%2C253&sr=8-12

I love this one. I've used the pet version and hate it.

Nibbler tool is usually what you'd want to make a square hole:
http://smile.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Nickel-Plated-Nibbling/dp/B0002KRACO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425488715&sr=8-1&keywords=nibble+tool

With those prices you could even splurge and get one of the quiet air compressors at that price.

Bosch 7.0 Amp Corded Variable Speed Barrel-Grip Jig Saw JS470EB with Carrying Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004323NQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FSfwDb19JF8EF

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C0MKNEE/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2E8564V6PEPWO&colid=3U8OSNVGVVRX9

According to /u/meangrampa it cost about 75$.

25$ for the angle grinder.

80$ for the drill press

30$ for the vice

And then you have tools you can use for other stuff too.

But let's be real, anyone who needs a square broach already have at least the drill and the vice.

Bud-boxes, some step drills, and a hand nibbler. Done and done.

Black and Decker RTX http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372710581&sr=8-1&keywords=black+and+decker+rtx

Takes all the dremel accessories and is cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF885C1-20V-Impact-Driver/dp/B01LBT3AZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482982083&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+impact+driver

Or get a real drill that will last you the rest of your life
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT209W-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-2-Piece/dp/B005CQ1RGI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1426213407&sr=1-1&keywords=makita

This one is quieter. plus it has an air tank

This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LYHYHEA?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005GT0IWK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482342469&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=bosch+12v&dpPl=1&dpID=511SKUOCFcL&ref=plSrch


These things last forever

Amazon sells a nicer black and decker for only $30 http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC

Less attachments, but I used one for ~5 years before I lost it

I would say the bigger the more dangerous. Most often the threads will not break and you'll be left with a bolt/nut digging into whatever it is that you're anchoring. I have two DeWalt impact drivers: both cordless 20volt, one with approximately 160 Nm and a 1/4" chuck, the other is a 1/2" drive high torque driver with a maximum output of approximately 950 Nm. I've snapped grade 8 half inch lag bolts with the big one.

All in all I would suggest for standard use a 1/4 inch chuck, not drive, light duty impact wrench. Anything you feel might not be tight enough go ahead and use a socket and ratchet wrench to confirm and you should be all good.

DEWALT DCF887B 20V MAX XR Li-Ion Brushless 0.25" 3-Speed Impact Driver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0183RLW8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PleoybVS9H9CS

Source: I work in heavy construction

For anyone curious, this is the "big brother" - DEWALT DCF899HB 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench with Hog Ring Anvil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ioeoybRH1MZTV

After owning 3 and having all of them fail in various ways over the years, I gave up on them. I have been using this now which is a few dollars more and I find it a more robust compressor.

Just get a black and decker or harbor freight model, they all do the same thing and most are compatible with most dremel brand tooling.

This is what I use and have cut a lot of metal with it, still holding up.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-Rotary-Storage/dp/B000MUSLCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341409647&sr=8-1&keywords=black+and+decker+rotary+tool

Not following the laminate idea, care to explain further?

Good idea about jigsawing a template and then routing. However, my one attempt, some time ago, to use a hand-held router to cut a smoothly curving line in a plywood board ended in disaster. The tool (a relatively cheap Black & Decker) was probably partly to blame, however. Would this one suffice?

I use a Dremel 4000, but you can probably get away with some Black and Decker for most jobs.

If you're doing straight cuts, I actually just use a fine tooth saw to make the cuts, sand down with sandpaper, and let the paint cover up everything else smoothly.

Wear a mask when cutting the plastic up and work in the garage.

The DCF682 is the wrong tool for the job. You use the DCF680 and put the clutch on 1.

I think we’re talking about different tools. This is my screw gun. At $97, I don’t think it’s that high end a tool.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043XX872?colid=&coliid=I39YDGY165O97S&ref_=hit_wr_dt_vr_md_pt_mobile

I’m not trying to say you’re saying anything bad about anybody. My whole point was owning your own tools is still a level of “wealthy” that not everyone has, well before the “pay someone else to do it for you” wealthy.

I failed at Reddit. I meant to link the dremel 8050-n. It has a built in rechargeable battery. The only downside is the price. Dremel 8050-N/18 Micro Rotary Tool Kit with 18 Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015DVN4E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4ROsxbNX7EJJ0

This is a massive conspiracy. I found several online stores selling whats needed to build ghost guns.

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-5-speed-bench-drill-press-60238.html

https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABLE-3-2-Amp-5-Speed-Bench-Drill-Press/1000183105

https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-4208-8-Inch-Speed-Drill/dp/B00HQONFVE/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1498684910&sr=1-4&keywords=drill+press

And they are all substantially cheaper. We should work on banning power tools. Think of the children. /s

There really are no pros of tankless compressor compared to one with a tank. A tankless one will run hotter and louder because it has to constantly run in order to maintain air pressure. The airflow is also more irregular which makes detail work with a airbrush much more annoying.

The first link is a airbrush ready compressor with a tank that should do what you need it to. The second is compressor that would need some fittings, hose, and moisture trap in order to work with airbrushing. The second one has the advantage of being a bigger tank and more horsepower so it would have to turn on for shorter amounts of time to fill the tank and you can go longer with the bigger tank before the compressor has to kick in again.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Model-TC-40T-Single-Piston/dp/B00WBT7PTW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=airbrush+compressor&qid=1570806689&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-CAT-1P1060S-Compressor/dp/B01LYHYHEA/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2HGLY5E1Q5YZ0&keywords=hitachi%2Bair%2Bcompressor&qid=1570807162&sprefix=hitachi%2Bair%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-6&th=1&psc=1

Im new to woodworkong. Two weeks ago I bought the 15 amp Skil circular saw and have only been cutting 3/4 inch thick plywood so far without issue. I was trying to make Mathias wandel's sawhorses tonight. When I was trying to make the 18 degree cut through the 2x4s the wood started smoking and I could barely move the saw. I stopped and tried once more with the same results and then quit for the evening. My stupid question is am I screwing something up, my saw can't handle the cut, or is there something wrong with my saw?

Thanks!

References:


Saw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BD81BLO/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484700942&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Sawhorse plan: http://woodgears.ca/sawhorse/

I love going to the flea market on the weekend. I live near Cincinnati and frequently hit up Caesars Creek and Pirates Cove (used to be Turtle Creek). It seems Caesar's has really died since they had a fire, everyone moved over to Pirates Cove.

It doesn't look like you have a lot of inside space. But maybe you can answer this for me. I often notice that a lot of inside vendors at the flea markets I go to are closed. Since the place is only open 2 days a week, this seems kind of odd. I mean, if you only have 2 days a week to make money, wouldn't you want to be there? But more often than not I'll walk through at 9 am and at least 1/4 of the vendors aren't open and its frequently the same ones every time. It seems to me if I ran a flea market I'd have a requirement that they need to be open, especially since people are paying to come in and shop ($2 for parking). Its only making the flea market management look bad when 1/4 of their vendors aren't there. I can't tell you how many times I've wanted to buy something but the owner isn't there to sell it to me. Whats the deal with this?

How do you manage vendors that just sell...crap? I see a lot of vendors that have been in the same spot for years that never have customers because what they sell is either over priced or just stuff no one wants. Do you only care as long as the vendor is paying their fees? Or, do you look to manage to ensure that you have quality vendors that people actually want to come in and shop with, rather than people just taking up space?

What about religious vendors? There is a booth at both Caesars and Pirates cove that has Jehova's witnesses accosting you as you walk by. Annoys the crap out of me.

How do you handle vendor / customer disputes? Eg - last year I was looking to buy a dewalt impact driver. There are several used power tool vendors at the flea markets I go to. One guy was asking $125 for a used dewalt impact, battery and charger. I said look dude, they go for cheaper than that new online - https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF885C1-20V-Impact-Driver/dp/B01LBT3AZU $92 for a new unit with a carrying case. I offered $75, which he begrudgingly accepted. Later, I found him at another tool vendors booth pointing me out and warning them that I was making up prices online (uh...I showed him the amazon listing on my phone) in order to haggle people down. I just about went and talked to management, as this seemed unnecessarily childish. He didn't need to accept my offer, and he certainly didn't need to tell others I was some kind of scammer.

>The tires were put on by the mechanic so probably pneumatic tightened but I didn't think that would prevent me from loosening them manually.

huehuehue

try a breaker bar. i got tired of straining my back on tight as fuck bolts and nuts so I got this

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899HB-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WTQW7JA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464089495&sr=8-3&keywords=dewalt+impact+wrench