Reddit mentions: The best power transmission products

Already a lot of great answers by clever people here! I can add a bit on motors and electricals, but I also want to say that you're probably underestimating how big a 3' arm is. Imagine that on your desk- it takes up half a table! Sizing the motors for static torque alone doesn't work well, as the inertia at the end effector increases with length^2 which is proportional to dynamic torque, speed, and vibration. Larger limb sections are also heavier and more complicated to make, which makes them even more heavy. Sizing down a little bit will make the arm dramatically more stable and performant.

> Belts or Gears for the actuators?

For 3 lb @ 35" you're looking at a minimum torque of 12.2 N-m at the shoulder. That will require reduction. Belts are far cheaper than gears, especially if you have a 3d printer- plastic pullys work great, although they need to be well glued to metal shafts (NB that a shaft key will greatly reduce strength and durability). Red loctite is great for that. A single belt reduction can do 5x, although you can do 10x+ with idlers. Mcmaster is a good place for belts, but amazon has a small selection that can be cheaper.

Note that belts can be very rigid: highly tensioned, fiber reinforced belts at moderate torque (otherwise the teeth start pulling out) are actually stiffer than most gears, which have a grease film and a gap between teeth that has a slight initial give/backlash. The reason you switch from belts to gears is because you need to tension the belts more tightly for higher torque. Once the tension becomes hard on the bearings and gearbox frame, you switch to gears. Basically you want to avoid gears if at all possible; they're expensive, hard to find, and hard to mount without metal backplates and the ability to cut bearing mounts. SDP/SI is a good place to get gears.

> Once I know how much torque I need, how do I know which type of motor is best for me? Stepper, Servo, Brushless?

Depends how much you want to spend. Hobby servos won't work for a 35" arm, even the $350 dynamixels. You also don't want to be designing your own brushless drivers, and the range of robotics controllers for bldc is limited. You are basically stuck between NEMA 23 and odrive.

NEMA 23 is the cheap choice- you can get very big NEMA 23s on amazon, hook them up to a single-stage 5x reduction, and have gobs of torque and good control. You can even get NEMA 34 for affordable prices. The drivers are stupidly cheap- for <$70 all-in you can have an arduino-controlled joint with 15 N-m of torque and top out solidly over 500 rpm. Add a couple heat sinks and you can increase that a lot- 500+ watts no problem, or 7 watts per dollar.

Downsides are you don't get any regen (not so important on an arm), low/no backdriveability (although this can be nice since the robot usually holds position when it turns off), very loud operation, low efficiency, and pretty low acceleration. Brushless motors require higher reduction and closed loop control, but are quiet, efficient, and can be used to build very responsive + high regen robots. Driving them is the weak link: the 56 V odrive dual driver cost a whopping $150. However for $70-80 per motor you get 40-90 amps continuous for 2 to 5 kilowatts, WITH regen and accuracy to >512 steps. That can be over 20 watts per dollar for the motor, reduction, sensors and driver. The limiting factor is even finding motors that can handle that power.

If your budget is <$500, go for steppers. If it's >$800, I'd go for brushless. You'll get an immense amount of speed and power, both of which are very good for an arm with a 3' reach. Note that 3' is a very large arm- the weight of the arm itself will be very limiting if you don't used fairly sophisticated techniques. 8"-12" sections are a hassle to 3d print. Rotational inertia increases with reach^2 so you'll need quadratically more power for the same acceleration (and to fight wobble). A 26" arm will require only half the power.

> Do I start my design from the end effector or do I start at the base?

I'd start at the end effector- that will set your payload weight and the torque required at the next joint, and so on back to the shoulder. Doing it the other way requires a lot more iteration.

The one thing I always say on posts like this is to learn how to use bearings. Bearings are the #1 cause of wobble in poorly designed arms, and the easiest way to tell if the designer had any clue what they were doing. Use 608 bearings for everything you can. They're incredibly cheap and precise because they're used in skateboards- 20 to 50 cents each. They're deep groove bearings, which are excellent for machinery, and can take 300 lbs radial and 150 lbs axial static load and 2-3x that for dynamic load. They're easily a 50x better value than any other types of bearings. If you want other bearings (maybe very large thin section) go to onlinebearingstore, despite having a 2000s era website/name they're really great. Unrelated, theoringstore is also really great.

The most important thing to know about bearings is that they always, always need a preload. The bearing will not meet specs if it does not have some axial force. It will have a very noticeable play and will wear out quickly. This is why you always use bearings in pairs- not because they can't take it, but because you can't preload a single bearing. You need two bearings to be pressed together. I like disc springs for this, but shims and even just bolts also work well for providing the axial force. You can usually just set your preload by feel (so make it possible to bolt down one bearing closer to the other), but if you want to do the math it's good to aim for an axial force of 50% of the maximum radial force you expect. That can come from static load, or torque from twisting the bearing.

Sounds like a cool project, probably more suited to the hobby CNC subreddit: /r/hobbycnc , but I'm still happy to throw in my 2 cents here.

Instead of building up trucks with threaded rod / bearings / nuts, and using an aluminum tube for your linear motion, I would highly recommend using off the shelf linear bearings and shafting. The proliferation of the hobbyist DIY CNC / 3D Printer segment has flooded the market with cheap linear motion components. It's still going to be a bit more than your proposed solution, but I think it would be worth it - you'll save yourself a lot of frustration and end up with a better performing solution, even using the cheapest off the shelf components. Something like these, for example:

• Linear Bearing
  
• Linear Motion Rail
  
  For the gear rack / spur gear: Do the individual "blocks" the louvers are attached to need to move independently of each other, or can they all move ganged? I'm assuming you need the independent linear motion, but just in case you don't, it would be much cheaper to use one motor to turn a single leadscrew that runs the full length of the machine axially and have a nut on each "block".
  
  Assuming you need the independent linear movement, your use of a gear rack is a good solution. You mentioned wanting to use NEMA17 motors but were unable to locate a gear that would fit on the 5mm shaft. McMaster has brass spur gears with the DP and PA to match your rack with a .1875" bore, however they're brass, not stainless:
  
  
• 7880k31
  
  You'd obviously have to ream the bore to fit a 5mm shaft, but that shouldn't be much of an issue. If you can't live with brass, and you can't find a 32DP 20° spur gear with an appropriate bore elsewhere, you could always turn down a bushing to press fit on the 5mm motor shaft to make the larger bore spur gear work. If you're not paying for your time to make the bushings, the material cost for that is going to be a lot less than the price delta between the NEMA17 and NEMA23 steppers.
  
  Also, if the "blocks" are moving independently of each other, you probably want to put limit switches on them to prevent them from running into each other and trashing your steppers / gears / whatever else.
  
  Lastly, I'd try to avoid using the 2x2 wood stud for that structural component. Structural timber like that is terribly unstable and not dimensionally accurate at all, I can see it causing you issues - take a look at 80/20 aluminum extrusions for those structural components. They're obviously more expensive than wood, but you can find good deals on eBay (the actual manufacturer of 80/20 even has an eBay store where they sell surplus / off cuts / scratch & dent / etc.: 8020-Inc-Garage-Sale)
  
  Anyway, hope some of that is helpful. Like I said, looks like a cool project, and I think it's certainly achievable, even without taking any of my suggestions on board. Oh, and BTW - nice looking rendering you made there!

I got my Ender 3 Pro about a month ago, performed some upgrades and ran into a few problems, but with some weird caveates.



I'm trying to print multiple miniatures on a single print, but seem to be getting a lot of oozing or stringing issues, but when I test with retraction tests, the test comes out perfect with identical settings. Additionally, when googling around, I couldn't find anything except for potentially a nozzle clog or potentially hydrated filament (possible, I'll test this later)

​

I've tested a few other prints as well, a benchy and a testcube, they print fine. Really curious about what's going on. Do I need to spread the prints out more, use different settings, or is it more of a mechanical issue?

​

I'd appreciate any help you guys have to recommend!

​

So, lets get down to it:

Printer: Creality Ender 3 Pro

Surface: Creality Glass surface

Upgrades: Aluminum extruder upgrade

Capricorn Tubing

New bed springs



In addition to these, I've tightened the X and Y bolts on the runners to reduce wobble -- there's no more wobble, maybe they're too tight? I don't think so, I've had good prints with these settings, but not with a few things.



Settings:

Basically the same as the "normal" settings for the Ender 3 on Cura 4.0.0

But in addition: (And what I think may be important is bolded)

adhesion_type = raft

layer_height = 0.12

support_tree_enable = True

support_type = buildplate

brim_outside_only = False

fill_outline_gaps = True

infill_pattern = cubic

infill_sparse_density = 25

material_final_print_temperature = 180

material_initial_print_temperature = 180

material_print_temperature = 185

optimize_wall_printing_order = True

raft_margin = 10

retraction_amount = 7.5

retraction_speed = 20

speed_print = 30

support_angle = 40

support_conical_enabled = True

support_infill_rate = 50

support_interface_enable = True

support_pattern = lines

** NOTE ** Standard supports are turned off, I'm using the tree supports

support_tree_collision_resolution = 0.15

travel_avoid_supports = True

travel_compensate_overlapping_walls_enabled = False

wall_thickness = 1.2

Improvements/add-ons

• Filament Roller Guide. You will thank yourself later to further prevent the filament from grooving an indentation where it feeds into your extruder. It utilizes bearings but its a fantastic design. I had mine for ~2 months when I started noticing the groove already being made.

• XT60 Connector clips - if you want a little "cable management"

• LCD Cable Clips - Also if you want a little "cable management". There is also an LCD Cover for the PCB to keep dust and whatnot out.

• Any fan covers you find that suit your style as you dont want filament going into the box in the bottom left (not entirely too sure what it holds).

>
>
>



Physical Upgrades

• Upgrade the bed springs as my originals started to sag a little. Not exactly sure on what the technical name for those springs are but those are the ones I purchased and I have been happy with them.

• Borosilicate glass bed. I use to use the stock mat, tape method, and hairspray method. All of those worked for a little bit but were a complete pain and mess to deal with from time to time. All I do now is use some isopropyl alcohol and clean my glass bed every once in a while but past that I require NO adhesion for my bed outside of tiny pieces that require a brim, skirt or whatever support needed to keep it adhered. As long as your print bed is leveled as best as possible (have a nice filament "squish") you will have no issues.

• Some other things you could look into if you plan to print with other kinds of filament outside of PLA would be: Micro Swiss steel nozzle, Capricorn tubing and an upgraded extruder like the e3d. Keep it simple for right now though while you learn your rigs because I strongly feel no ender 3 works the same and my preference for which program (MatterHacker, Slic3r or Cura) depends on how I feel how the model appears and how its coming out. Also, grab yourself a handful of replacement nozzles if you continue to use the brass ones. They CAN wear out if you use the printer like crazy, so its always good to have spares (also can get a variety of sizes too - standard being the 0.1mm I believe?). I snagged a pack of 10 for $5-8.

>
>
>


Last but not least, run a few bed level test prints as well. The best one that I have found which helps me dial in my printing was CHEPs bed level STL file. Video & G-Code file. I use it religiously if I ever find that my bed is out of wack.



There are a handful of other mods/add-ons you can find on Thingiverse and another website (one which we arent allowed to link to unfortunately).

I'm pretty new to this too, I bought my Ender 3 Pro around the same time as you. Quiet printing is pretty high on my list as well as being able to print high-temp exotic filaments in the long term while maintaining reliability.

First upgrades I purchased were stiffer bed springs so I would be less likely to throw the bed out of level while removing prints or working around the printer and Capricorn XS tube since it has a more consistent internal diameter, fits closer to the filament, and can work with slightly higher temps. I also picked up a pack of bowden couplers recently as I noticed the end nearest the extruder is sliding past the coupler jaws on de/retraction; don't worry about that unless it's an issue for you. That's about $30 alone since I don't have a supply shop locally and have to order those parts in bulk. I had a Pi 3B laying around unused and flashed Octoprint onto it. Highly recommended. I have a replacement Noctua hotend fan, buck converters, and 5015 blower on order to quiet the fan noise; about $32. Just replaced the Meanwell psu fan with a 60x25mm Noctua I had lying around (Note: there may be better options in the 92-120mm range to replace part of the PSU housing, but that's what I had laying around). Next upgrade coming is the SKR Mini E3 with TMC 2209 drivers ($28) to eliminate almost all of the stepper noise. Also looking into a replacement for the control board fan and some vibration isolating feet for the frame. As far as higher temp printing I haven't made a lot of progress aside from buying a titanium all-metal heat brake ($11) winch I have yet to install or inspect, and looking into enclosure and electronics relocation avenues.

Either way the mods I purchased came in at around $100 US which should quiet the printer and help with reliability. Also looking into picking up a good M3-M4 bolt kit if any exist in the US.

Here are some links to the things I picked up and will, which may be helpful if you're in the US. Mostly from Amazon.

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability | 8mm x 20mm yellow springs | Link | $6.98
Reliability | Capricorn XS Tubing | Link | $11.49
Reliability | PC4-M6 / PC4-M10 Pneumatic Bowden Fittings | Link | $11.99
Silence | Noctua 40mm x 10mm 3-pin fan | Link | $13.95
Silence/Various | LM2596 Adjustable Buck Converters | Link | $10.95
Silence | 24v 5015 Radial Ball Bearing Fans | Link | $7.19
Silence/Various | SKR Mini E3 w/ TMC 2209 drivers | Link | $28.81
High Temp | Titanium All-Metal Heat Brake | Link | $11.52
TOTAL: $102.88 US + Tax

Parts already purchased/ bought with printer

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability/High Temp | OEM Ender 3 Glass Bed | Link | $20
Reliability | Feeler Guage Set | Link | $5
Reliability | 608zz Bearings, using with this(My Remix), this, and this, though I like this design a bit better | Link | $5.98
QoL Improvement | Raspberry Pi 3B w/ Octoprint | Link | $34.46
Silence | Noctua 60mm x 25mm 3-pin fan, goes with this mod | Link | $14.95
TOTAL: $80.39 US + Tax

Future planned upgrades

• Bl Touch (Note: if you have a Pi you don't need a separate ISP to flash a bootloader to the stock Melzi control board)
  
  
• Extruder | Zesty Nimble, Bondtech BMG, or SeeMeCNC EZR
  
  
• Cooling Duct | Either Smooth Fang or Hero Me Gen 3 in PETG/ABS
  
  
• Direct Drive | Kit or Printed (this, this, or this)
  
  
• Electronics relocation enclosure and wiring (need to research this more)
  
  
• Vibration Isolation Feet with Yellow Dot Squash Balls
  
  
• Linear rails (maybe)

Did you assemble using the instructions that came with the printer? Because then chances are most things need to be tweaked. I suggest looking through this build video and checking if everything is in order. I mean, maybe you instinctively put it all together right, but more likely is that some things aren't squared right, the frame is poorly produced(hence the low price of the printer), so it needs actual effort to get it all built right.

​

The first thing you should do when you are done with all building is calibrate your extruder motor. This basically means making sure that when you tell the printer to move your filament 100mm, it also moves it 100mm. Most likely it isn't calibrated right, I don't think I ever heard of an Ender 3 that came with a proper calibrated extruder right out of the box. You also do need to do the flow calibration in that same link, and for that you will need digital calipers.

​

As for the nozzle, no, you don't need to clean it out before every print. You only need to actively clean it out if you change to a different colour or different type of filament, and you just do that by running the new filament through until the colour is stable, then the new filament has purged the old.

The small "tool" is actually an acupuncture needle :D When that gets lost/bent/worn, don't fall into the hoax of buying "real 3D printer cleaner tools", just buy a pack of 0.35 or 0.4 acupuncture needles. The function of it is if you get a clot that clogs up your nozzle, if it isn't a bad clog, you can just puncture it with the acupuncture needle and run some filament through by hand to clear the nozzle.

Isopropyl is great for some bed surfaces, not so much for others. The Creality glass bed or a PEI sheet both benefit vastly from isopropyl, but the stock Ender 3 bed with the rough feeling surface doesn't need that much cleaning(it also doesn't last long, consider what you want your next bed to be).

Stuff like regular window or frame glass needs an adhesive like hairspray or glue stick, so wiping those with isopropyl before every print would be outright wrong as that actively removes adhesive.

​

If you're not gonna do anything else for now, go through this checklist:

• Are the wheels tensioned right?
  
• Are the belts tight?
  
• Is my extruder calibrated?
  
  ​
  
  Consider getting stronger bed springs as the stock ones are beyond terrible. And when your printer prints right, print an LCD back cover and fan guard - those two are essential to printer health

Aside from the aforementioned glass plate, there are several easy and useful mods. There's many threads going over this actually. Search around.

Get this and make some mods using the bearings. I made the Filament Guide along with a snap-in filament guide for closer to the spool. Both highly recommended.
Also using the bearings, I made a Spool Holder. Not crucial, but might save wear on extruder mechanism.

Get This or something like it and at least install the couplers instead of stock ones. I haven't replaced the tube itself yet. It requires fairly precise cutting but you can get PTFE tube cutting guides and cutters printed from thingiverse.

Get This and install it before glass bed or anything else, except for maybe a bed handle (which you can print from thingiverse. Handle isn't crucial but will help.

I haven't yet but will get:

• a better extruder (all metal or a bmg clone)
  
• a better hot-end (for printing of other stuff, like nylon if I want)
  
  Buy Spare Nozzles, including a hardened steel one if you want to do any amount of printing with wood-grain, metal or glow-in-the-dark material.

Hey I also new on this, got my printer a month ago, I was super exited as everyone here when receive their printer, I read a LOT while waiting for the printer, so I heard that the stock bed springs are crappy, so I ordered this ones FYSETC Bed springs, also ordered the Aluminium Extruder feeder, and read about the leveling, the paper sheath method, which I think you should already heard about, I did it at the first time the printer gave me a nearly perfect first print (demo dog) , after a few prints and on my third print I came home just to find a mess on my printer, so I did my research again, find out it was bed adhesion, and find out that the best way was glass bed + PEI sheet was the best option, while waiting to arrive I tried to clean the stock bed sheet with mineral spirits (did have rubbing alcohol) but it worsened the adhesion, so I used one adhesion sticker that comes with the overture filament, and again flawless adhesion, at least for the first 4 prints, then again the frustration, I tried some glue stick and worked but it leaves a mess on your print so I decided to try painters tape directly onto the aluminum bed (which lucky for me it is perfectly flat) this is the best adhesion I have tried, problem is also makes a mess with the down face of the print, Finally mi Gass-PEI arrived, (3 days ago), it has a great adhesion but is not perfect, also you have to raise the Z limit switch to compensate the 5~ mm of Glass-PEI, find out that it isn't perfectly flat it has a good adhesion and leaves a very smooth down face, but at some section it does't sticks well and leaves artifacts on the down face, I'm currently working to fix this.

Sorry for the long post, need to talk about my frustration and let you know you are not alone on this, once you manage to make a good print is very satisfying, I have a PETG filament waiting to be used but I don't think is a great idea to try it until a learn more about 3D printing and the Ender.

It's generally better to use it stock and upgrade as you discover the need to.

The only (purchased) upgrade you really need from the get go is [better bed springs] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KF9LZ2L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). The stock ones are terrible at maintaining the bed at level. If the bed it comes with is warped, then also a glass bed, but that's the only reason you would need one. Mine wasn't warped and it's just fine. After that, aluminum extruder because the plastic one will start to wear eventually, and capricorn tubing.

A Pi, auto leveling, new electronics, micro swiss are all much more in the "luxury" upgrade category in my opinion. I don't have any of those and I don't feel any particular need to after three months of having the printer.

Make sure you also look into what's called "luke's hotend fix." I struggled with an underextrusion goblin for a while until I did that and upgraded to an aluminum extruder and capricorn tubing. Goblin banished.

I recommend also getting some calipers, though they're not necessary, and a set of feeler gauges has made bed leveling easier and more consistent than using a sheet of paper.

edit: I misread and thought you were trying to save money. Anyway, I still recommend using it mostly stock for a while to get familiar with it before upgrading a bunch of stuff. Out of those, after bed springs, extruder assembly and tubing I'd probably go for the electronics and hotend since bed leveling comes pretty easy to me now.

So far working with the Anet A8 has been an extreme lesson in patience. It's honestly a bad printer but if you're willing to spend time and a little money, you can make it decent. First up should be fire safety. Immediately upgrade to the latest version of Marlin and install a mosfet for at least the bed, if not both the bed and hot end.

I would also recommend ordering new bearings before assembling the printer. The ones it comes with are pure garbage and for $10 it's an easy purchase. Another thing that might be worth investing in immediately is better belts.

After it's assembled and you can print well enough print an X belt tensioner and a Y belt tensioner. After that it might not hurt to print some braces for the weak acrylic frame. If you're hardcore about the frame check out the Anet AM8 upgrade which replaces the acrylic one with metal for about $60.

Good luck!

Those couplers are trash and so is the PTFE tube they sent. They may work for a while but you'll want to swap them sooner rather than later. Here's a list of upgrades you'll probably want to do. You'll also want to look up a tutorial on how to upgrade your firmware so you can activate safety features (thermal runaway protection specifically). This also doesn't include a BLTouch or EZABL (auto bed levelers) as I have yet to make a choice personally.

Couplers and Tube:
SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Metal Extruder: ( original plastic one will wear out or break)
Ender 3 Creality 3D Upgrade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSS8FRQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Bed Springs: (more than needed but oh well)
SIQUK 16 Pieces Heated Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9PBML5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Glass Bed: (goes on top of print bed which is usually warped, printing on an uneven surface not so bueno)
Creality Upgraded 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS2LZF1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Raspberry Pi 3B+ for OctoPrint: (still need microsd card for it I believe)
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Stepper Motor Dampers: (silences the motors, no more sounding like dial up internet lol will need to print mounts from thingiverse)
Upgraded NEMA 17 Stepper Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNT72SF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat Sinks For Stepper Motors: (once stepper motors have dampers and aren't attached to the metal frame, they can get a little hot)
40mmx40mmx10mm Black Radiator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWVGGGK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hot end silicone sleeve: (may not need, mine came with one instead of the old insulation)
Creality Original 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNXJ39T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Extra Filament: (ender 3 only comes with a small sample "spool", this is just a brand I use and have had decent results with. The metallic silver hue shows off detail well)
3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7YUIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I am not sure, as I haven't tried either one, but I have ordered these for a similar issue. can't yet comment on how good they are, as they are still on their way to me. These appear more sophisticated, but as I said, I haven't yet tested them.

https://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP4-V-Anti-Vibration-Pack/dp/B00BVEMLR4/ref=pd_sim_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BVEMLR4&pd_rd_r=099c2662-e9de-11e8-8e2e-49ff07944d9e&pd_rd_w=GtOIO&pd_rd_wg=eekSs&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=WA3WKQJD37F71YAJTE2G&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=WA3WKQJD37F71YAJTE2G

​

Moving your bed close to a support point (such as a structural wall) might reduce the vibrations you feel as well, as the vibrations will typically have the largest amplitude toward the center of the floor span. Finally, I suppose you could try also putting the anti-vibration pads under the posts of your bed. Unfortunately, it is impossible to guarantee that any of these steps will solve the issue, but they might be worth trying.

So, I like to listen to music (loudly) in my car, but as I increase the volume, certain sub bass frequencies will begin rattling the items in my glove compartment. This obviously becomes a nuisance during my morning/evening commutes.

My proposed solution is to line the glove compartment with a material designed to absorb low frequency vibrations. After some googling, I found a material called Sorbothane, which many people use for dampening low frequency vibrations.

Questions:

1. Am I off-base with my solution? Will a vibration-absorbent material placed between the compartment surface and the items within be enough to considerably dampen the rattling?
   
   
2. If I am indeed on the right track, does this material (Sorbothane) seem ideal? I have very little technical knowledge of vibration-dampening, so let me know if there are better materials/solutions to this issue.
   
   
3. If somehow, miraculously, my proposal is still completely on-track, would this item be sufficient for my purposes?
   
   Note: my car is a 2-year-leased 2016 Honda Accord Coupe, so extensive/invasive solutions are unfortunately a no-go. Additionally, it does not have an actual subwoofer, just standard built-in speakers with fairly decent low-frequency response.
   
   Many thanks in advance to anyone who can steer me in the right direction. Also, apologies for the lengthy post. Just wanted to get everything explained properly.
   
   

Great printer, the Ender 3 is very popular right now because it is fully open source. Which means if you have any questions, then there is lots of community support for it right now.

Out of the box everything is great, the only thing I would suggest is to spend a few bucks and upgrade the bed springs right off the bat. I've had mine a few months. Once I got my bed level it has been running great.

Also buy a few roles of PLA filament, because it only comes with enough to get a few test prints. Oh, and replacement nozzles, because they will eventually wear down and need replaced.

Nice ! I can see you've done your homework lol, all good choices. I'll just give you a few suggestions then since you've pretty much got it covered. The springs I used on my enders were these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY47BX7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You might need longer screws, not sure about that, but you can get those at any hardware store, probably around 35mm m3 screws should do the trick. And the motor vibration dampers i used were these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 you don't need them on the z-axis, just the x and y. As far as smoothers go, I think the creality boards currently use a4988 stepper drivers, so you'd probably not see any benefit from tl smoothers. I'd definitely recommend the glass bed, since ender 3 print beds are almost always warped to some extent which can make leveling the bed a real pain in the ass. The hardened steel nozzle is cool, just be aware it's not as good at transferring heat to the filament as a brass nozzle, so it prints slower, and it's only useful if you're planning on using abrasive filament like carbon fiber or glow in the dark filament. Pla, petg, wood pla, and abs don't need it. You can actually print anything you want with a brass nozzle, you'd just replace it more often depending on how much abrasive filament you use. Also, don't know which fan shroud you're planning on, but the bullseye is very good and it uses the stock fan : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439

Sorry about the wall of text lol.

I installed the cheap Amazon replacement belt today and wow, what a world of a difference. I got my X axis down to 258 and my Y axis down to 259 which is good enough for me. I did a test print, and the prints look nicer than before. I looked at the old belts I took off (the kit stock belts) and they are indeed the gates GT2 belts. After further investigation, I think the issue was that the stock belts were slipping out of the locking groves where they fasten to the carriage. I measured the thickness of the stock belts and got 1.33mm, and measured the thickness of the Amazon belts and they are 1.54mm. Both belts are supposed to be 1.38mm, so the gates belts are under spec and the Amazon belts are way over spec. I think in this case though, the extra thickness of the Amazon belts help the belt stay tight, even if it's thicker than it's supposed to be. I can now strum the new belts and get a guitar sound, where as with the stock ones I couldn't. And now I have like 5 meters of extra belt left in my parts drawer!

Yeah my motivation was storage. Sound dampening is a great idea! I stole the idea from someone on thingiverse who thought the same as you. They added vibration dampeners like the ones below, so I added them as well. I like to think it is quieter, which is why I am looking for something else to store underneath instead of replacing them with the original feet.

https://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP4-V-Anti-Vibration-Pack/dp/B00BVEMLR4?keywords=square+dampening&qid=1536604713&sr=8-15&ref=mp_s_a_1_15

I highly recommend upgrading the springs.

I got these, they are 10x more stiffer and make bed leveling a breeze.

Linear rails are really nice, but honestly I think it's total overkill for a budget printer like this, if you got the cash though go for it.


Just a word of caution though, lots of people have had mixed experiences with the linear rails off aliexpress. some people love em, others have ordered them and they've fallen apart in their hands while installing them.


Me personally, I upgraded all the wheels and bearings to these. they are way more stiffer than the stock wheels and the bearings on those suckers roll like butter. You can just do the bed wheels but I upgraded all of them, was one of the best mods I've bought yet.


Also I'm not sure if this is still an issue, but last I heard the TH3D firmware had some really bad issues with Jerk settings being set WAY too high or acting very buggy. Have you noticed movements that are pretty violent? really high jerk values can throw your bed leveling level off during a print if it's strong enough.

The two part shaft coupling/prune type coupler/whatever is the best! Absolutely worth its extra cost, however you have to make sure you get a good quality one. I bought one off of eBay before for cheap, and it's really not worth the extra cost.

The one in the picture doesn't look as good (due to the red pieces being much smaller than they should), but this type is so much better for one simple reason: if your print head ever slams into the bed on accident or goes too far up (because you leveled incorrectly or pushed Z too far up or down) the piece will act as a safety mechanism and actually dislodge. The two pieces will separate and will save the motor, coupler, and anything else from getting destroyed.

The stock ender 3 coupler that I had actually was destroyed because I kept on using my hand to push the X axis up, and after using too much force, the piece bent upward. It was stuck permanently until I took the dremel out to cut the screw out.

If anyone looks for a coupler, GET one of these. Most people don't think this is an upgrade, but it has saved my life multiple times.

UXCell's model is by far the best, but quite expensive. Here is the link. If you do choose to buy it, you'll actually need a button head screw for the bottom coupler piece as it will hit against the motor mount. Unlike the stock one, it is super heavy duty thick (which is why the screw hits the mount) and is quite well cut.

I'd say the yellow bed springs are worthwhile. They're about $5 on Amazon, I bought these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXC1G2B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They help keep the bed from going out-of-level as quickly, vs the stock springs. They're easy to install, and cheap, which is nice.

There are loads of other upgrades you can consider. A glass print bed surface, as one example, or a PEI print bed. Either can help provide a flatter print surface, vs the stock magnetic one (which will more-readily follow any distortions in the heated bed surface, making your print surface uneven).

I second the Nano Oil. Equally as important as the quality of the oil is the applicator tip. The nano oil comes in a pen sized bottle that has a really fine needle point so you can apply it very accurately. I love it, sure it's a little more expensive but I'm pretty sure it will last me forever.

http://smile.amazon.com/Nano-Oil-NanoLube-Friction-Concentrate-weight/dp/B002C9RGA4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396373262&sr=8-1&keywords=nano+oil

vxb.com has cheaper bearings, better quality control, and faster shipping. They even give you the better silicone nitride balls instead of the zirconium balls in your post...

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BBQDW0/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_328_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=47JQJW50MCFDYSRDPSK3

VXB: http://www.vxb.com/608-Full-Ceramic-8mm-x-22mm-x-7mm-Miniature-p/608zr02-zr02-ptfe.htm

The vxb website shows zirconium balls but when I bought it I was given the silicone balls which is false advertising, but in a good way, because silicone is better.

It's not common practice, but it should be.

It won't help a modern flight computer all that much, but it'll help video a lot. Cut little discs of something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Isolate-Sorbothane-Vibration-Damping-Sheet/dp/B004LY8UTY/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1427644430&sr=8-22&keywords=sorbothane (It's costly, but you use barely any of it...) Be sure to use loctite on the motor threads and to compress the sorbothane SOME but not too much.

Basically, it's much better to isolate/damp vibration before it excites the rest of the frame, rather than try and keep it out of a couple of critical components (camera, flight board)... Especially the flight board: damping can be harmful, because the flight board itself can "bounce" in response to accelerations of the aircraft.

Again, I am a super novice...

​

I switched out to a glass bed simply because my stock bed was warped. The tip could touch on the corners and a sheet of paper would slide right through in the center. Once you get the bed level though, I don't think your adhesion problem will be as much of an issue. The magnetic bed it actually pretty nice. I actually ended up turning my bed down a little, to like 55. I was at 60, and it was working, but I was having adhesion problems as well and figured it might be a combination of speed and filament being too hot to stick with a temp that high. I also run my PLA at 210.

​

These springs made leveling the bed much easier. Springs

This was the bed I went with. I like it a lot.

OnDaq,

This one from Amazon seems like a pretty good deal.

https://www.amazon.com/VXB-Ceramic-Miniature-Bearing-8x22x7/dp/B01JKBUR1Q

It's a full ZrO2 bearing. There are two types of ceramic bearings (Si3N4 Silicon Nitride, and the ZrO2 Zirconium Oxide). Then you have full or hybrid. A full means that all components of the bearing are made from those elements. The hybrids will usually have the ceramic balls and the rings/races are made from some other material. Just make sure the size matches to the existing bearing in your spinner if you're buying a replacement online.

Regards,
Nate

Oh thank god Reddit is back up! Okay, I think a good bet might be these: https://www.amazon.com/OTRMAX-4-Piece-Longer-Bearing-Bushing/dp/B01MXTYSVL/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1498657770&sr=1-2&keywords=lm8luu as it is the correct size and has good reviews.

Here's the aluminum extruder assembly. The plastic one that comes on the printer WILL break. It's just a matter of time. They crack from stress after a while and even before that they creep and you'll start getting missed extrusion.

Here's the stiffer bed springs. You won't have to compress these as much to get a good stiffness.

Another really popular upgrade is this glass build plate. It has a special coating that makes it so parts stick without adhesive, and it leaves a really smooth surface on your prints. Parts stick really well then when it cools down they self-release.

The 3 upgrades I linked are extremely popular upgrades. You can get by without the glass bed, it's just an option because the stock bed will wear out eventually.

Something like these? Edit; that was my first google hit, pretty sure any place like home depot has a selection on the shelves.

I bought these anti vibration pads from Amazon.
Diversitech MP4-E E.V.A. Anti-Vibration Pad, 4" x 4" x 7/8" Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9dFNAbVYKVG1H

I put them under each clever if the base. THEY ARE AMAZING. I can sometimes not even tell it's printing. I often find myself now checking to see if it's still for some reason. Before you could hear the vibrations through the walls in other rooms.

For the $10 they cost I would recommend them to everyone.

Popular brands are Nano Oil 10wt,Militec-1,Benchmade Blue lube,Hoppe's No. 9,KPL Knife Pivot Lube,3-in-1 oil,and Tuff Glide dry lubricantjust to name a few in no particular order. I personally like Nano-oil the best but have been hearing really good things about KPL.

It's possible that while removing a previous print you knocked the bed out of level. One of the best upgrades I usually recommend is heavier duty springs to replace the stock bed level springs.

Something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07FY47BX7?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I probably talked to the same team you did at Houston. I’ve never made it, but think I grasp the concept. Using a belt like this , one side is mounted to the back of the last stage of the slide, then loops around to the front of the next stage, then to the back of that stage, and so on (just like in a string lift). After the last stage, the belt loops around the pulley attached to the motor, and then Is once again looped around the slide except in the opposite direction. (If you’ve ever strung a lift with two strings, it’s the same concept). You don’t need a pulley on any of the points the belt loop back, just something to minimize the friction of it rubbing. Also you’d need to find pulley for the output that can interface with the FTC motor output shafts, since most of the ones I find on amazon are for stepper motor shafts. Servocity might have something.

You can buy it on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Mercurry-Meters-timing-Rostock-GT2-6mm/dp/B071K8HYB4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525473423&sr=8-3&keywords=3d+printer+belt

Also on the tevo store:

https://tevo3dprinterstore.com/collections/tarantula-spare-parts/products/10meter-gt2-6mm-open-timing-belt

Notice also that the acrylic parts are fragile and breaking those before printing better replacements will be expensive to solve, unless someone can print the parts for you ofc. So take it easy and don't tight the nuts too much. Use washers whenever you can.

I think I know exactly what you are talking about. I have a roll in my toolbox for making intake and throttle body gaskets.

Keep it from scratching, yes. Keep it from vibrating, probably not.

Something like this would be about perfect, but I am sure you could find something much cheaper.

I would probably just go to the hardware store and look at something like garage door or regular door seal to find something with the right durometer (squishiness) rubber. Too soft and it will just squash flat and not do anything. Too stiff and it won't soak up much vibration.

1/8" would dampen a helluva lot of vibration, but 1/16" would probably do the trick too.

I like these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007B2A84S/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

because its stainless you can put it in directly with the food, and they are pretty heavy for their size, quite helpful

I haven't run my cable for my house batteries yet, but if there is no adequately placed hole you could drill a hole the size you need and use a gland nut. Make sure to seal the edges of the hole with paint to prevent rust. The gland nut will prevent water from entering the van through that hole.

Hope this helps. I'll be running my cable underneath the van and bringing it in through the large surround on the gas filler neck.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-Waterproof-Glands-Joints/dp/B005FIWYX8
-these probably aren't the right size but an idea of what they look like and what they do

Here's a pic of it. The Tower
It stands a little over 6ft tall. It's 5 tabletops, and 4 sets of legs, with the 5th top acting as the base. Each table is 21.5 inches square and the tops of 2in tall and the legs 15.5. It sits on top of this, so it can rotate. The joining plates come from Home Depot. Here's a pic.
I originally joined them with flimsy screws and plastic joiners that came from Ikea's free spare parts areas, but I didn't trust them once the tower would be fully loaded. I'm not much of a craftsman, but I'm happy with it. All told it cost me about $45. ($5 per table, + Joining plates/screws + Lazy Susan)
I mostly use it to hold games that get played a lot, so it's not a shot of my whole collection.

It's hard to describe how tight it should be, but I believe I only loosened the arm about a quarter of a turn after screwing it in.

My apologies, I was a little unclear. The bearing should be able to move freely in the air when you push against the lever arm. When you push the lever arm in (like when you change filaments), you should be able to rotate the silver bearing in the air by hand without any trouble.

If you cannot spin the bearing, then it needs to be loosened a bit.

For your extruder spring, are you using a silver spring, similar to the stock bed/extruder springs, or a yellow spring that's commonly recommended as upgrades?

That's why I suggested clear marbles, to minimize the impurities, but clear leaded glass crystal is a thing. OP could also pick up some large food grade stainless steel or ceramic ball bearings, but I didn't suggest that originally because of the expense.

https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Stainless-Steel-Bearing-Balls/dp/B007B2A84S

https://www.google.com/search?q="food+grade"+large+"stainless"+steel+ceramic+"loose"+"ball"+bearing

But ultimately you could play the "possible unsafe impurities" game with just about any material unless you personally have it tested.

Even if your printer would have arrived with all 4 springs, one of the best, cheapest, and easiest upgrades for the Ender 3 is installing these Yellow springs

It's easier than that, even:

Just buy an assortment of bearings. They're cheap. Then when you take it apart, you will definitely have the right size, just match the old ones to the new ones... Which will be 1/4", since this is an 80's Japanese bottom bracket and will be totally standard. ;)

(edit: And then you'll have bearings for your hubs and headset too!)

https://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP4-V-Anti-Vibration-Pack/dp/B00BVEMLR4/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_cp_1_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BVEMLR4&pd_rd_r=K7RAMWWPTQMWDQG4J2Y5&pd_rd_w=IO06O&pd_rd_wg=R53mt&psc=1&refRID=K7RAMWWPTQMWDQG4J2Y5

4" x 4" x 7/8" Anti-Vibration pads, Qty 4 in total

Helping a friend this weekend who has a Synology NAS Rackstation, approx size is 2U high, by 22" x 24"

For now, she will be placing it on top of an old, heavy wooden microwave cart (on the top).

It's a solid wood unit; but I wonder if adding the above 4"x4" anti-vibration pads placed in each corner would help the vibration/noise

She might be doing a small server rack; but that is long time away. /thanks for reading

Okay,
this is a fantastic lubricant

this is a fantastic sharpener

I do not recommend going to Walmart or a general sporting goods store. They hire people who don't specialise in knives ( unless they have a personal interest ) and aren't very aware of better products.

These should work. or just search 3d printer bed springs on Amazon and pick one you like. They're super common, and basically all the same. Nothing too special.

Probably something like this

Anything rubber would at the very least dampen the vibrations. Possibly even like a cork drink coaster or something like that.

Here's the extruder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uSFjDbRH4ZQE4

Here's the springs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DTFjDb1KAPZ15

There's tons more. All you need to do is search Amazon. Glad I could help.

Simple fix: lower your z-endstop - the value in the assembly instructions is just a guideline.

Z-binding will most likely not be fixed by dis- and reassembly. It commonly results from the z-stepper being too close to the vertical beam. Some people used spacers that didn't work for me. I printed this adjustable z-motor mount that solved my problems. I have since also replaced the original rigid coupler with a flexible one.

Another thing I've done is to install stronger springs on the bed. (Something like these)

Got a 35$ Amazon gift card from work. There are so many spinners on Amazon I don't know what to get. Suggestions? I was thinking of getting an inexpensive one then replace with a fully ceramic bearing. Thoughts? This is the combination I was thinking (comes to just under 35$)

Spinner

Bearing

Probably. could be wrong though. Regardless it's pretty cheap.

Here is a relatively cheap supply list:

Loctite Blue 242:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9tS9yb9QJHK9R

Nano-Oil 10 weight:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C9RGA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EwS9yb10KF8P2

Torques:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LQEUJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yvS9ybNJ3JZ9A

There are probably better torques but l think these will work. I have a $45 set so I didn't think that is really cheap lol

Upgrade your bed springs: https://smile.amazon.com/Adiyer-Compression-Springs-Printer-Leveling/dp/B07KF9LZ2L/

In my opinion, this is the MOST necessary modification to do on any Ender 3. The springs that come with it are trash, and your bed will constantly shift up or down unless you get better springs. I haven't had to re-level my bed using paper in months.

I'd stick with the glass bed if I were you, it really helps if your bed is warped (which it probably is, judging by your first pic). Just from looking, it seems like your nozzle is too close on that second pic. If you're using a piece of paper to level, make sure to check the nozzle height at locations all over the bed, not just on the edge or the center (although the center is probably the most important spot).

Also, just a reminder to clean your bed with alcohol often. The Creality glass bed can be VERY sticky if clean, so it's actually pretty forgiving on that first layer. Your nozzle can be slightly farther away than it should be, but it will still adhere fine. But if the bed is dirty you'll have a lot of trouble.

That's exactly what happens. I too would watch it and think its fine and then come back later and its floating. Go ahead and check the bed leveling as well. It may need to be adjusted anyway.


Side note: If you find yourself constantly adjusting the bed every few prints or so, change them out for some better ones. These are the springs everyone goes for.

two 8mm x 295mm leadscrews w/ the brass nut things, clamp-style couplers, and then print any parts you may need for converting from threaded rods to leadscrews. The couplers I linked are expensive, but they work really well.

Be warned though, these parts will not help you fix any misalignment in your z-axis, they'll only help with bent rods. You need to ensure that everything is aligned yourself.

You can do this by installing the parts that hold the brass nuts and looking through the hole to align it with the motor shaft, or screwing the leadscrews in and using those to help align everything.

Thanks! The bearing is a full ceramic one I got on Amazon. The design is not mine. It is from Thingiverse, called the Cog Triple Spinner Reddit formatting apparently doesn't agree with mobile sharing links. I fixed it though.

Oh that kind. I get you now.

Those don't come with it - he lists the kinda stuff he uses on his amazon list.

It's not usually a problem, since the screw doesn't short stuff out that often. Only on some PCBs, in certain places. But as a pleb who doesn't want to buy special parts, I just use a little patch of electrical tape.

pretty sure he means these

Looks eerily familiar: http://imgur.com/MWZAKmU

I don't think they are used on the link the OP posted, but the cords at the bottom are held in place by Amico cable glands, size PG7 and PG9. http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Plastic-Waterproof-Glands-Joints/dp/B005FIWYX8

It was a fun project, but I would probably just buy a Johnson controller next time.

I would buy something like this assortment, pick the one that's the right size, put some grease on 'em, and get on with life. The extras will be useful for something, eventually.

edit: typically, you fill the race up with bearings, and then remove one. So if it takes 10 to fill the race with balls, use 9.

Buy better springs like these: https://www.amazon.com/SIQUK-Springs-Compression-Creality-Leveling/dp/B07K9PBML5

The stock springs are garbage and don't hold anything in place. A slight bump will knock it out of level.

your wife is farting

j/k

probably a plumbing thing (vent pipe moving in the wind? water hammer situation?) . do you share a wall with anyone? is your bed on wood floors or carpet?

if your bed touches the wall, move it out. perhaps buy some rubber isolators for the feet:

https://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP4-V-Anti-Vibration-Pack/dp/B00BVEMLR4

Uxcell produces high quality stuff in general, and their washers are made specifically for PCBs. Here's a link to ones I purchased that worked perfectly with GMK screwn-in stabilizers.

This picture is inland PLA printed at 220 C at various speeds - 60 mm/s on the left to 10 mm/s on the right.

Like most Wanhao i3 pluses, my y axis bearings started going, so I replaced them with these LM8LUUs. I got a lot of ringing. Tightening the belt didn't seem to help. Adjusting print speed and acceleration work, but only with extreme values - the printer was printing fine at 60 mm/s print speeds before the swap, and now I can only get rid of the ringing at 10 mm/s. Similar with acceleration values, originally printed at 1000 mm/s^2, and can get rid of ringing sub 200 (the picture is all 800 mm/s^2). Obviously this is not ideal. I'm out of ideas, but am wondering if this could be a problem with the bearings themselves at this point - that is, if I should replace the bearings again.

Had these for a while and they’re great

FYSETC 3D Printer Motherboard Accessories 0.31 in OD 0.78 in Length Compression Springs Light Load for Creality CR-10 10S S4 Ender 3 Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect Leveling - 10 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O-MLDbD1EA96T

These are the ones I bought. They're stiffer than stock so they hold their position longer. Surprised you've never heard of replacing them. It's a pretty common mod from what I can tell.

Don't forget some sorbothane blocks to set it on. They reduce vibration transmitted to and through the floor by an amazing amount.

You can use something like this. I would use a gear motor with a friction drive against the perimeter of the turntable, it's the simplest. One thing though: unless you make very sure the turntable is absolutely level, it may slip or move unexpectedly if the person shifts weight.

ohhh okay, I was thinking a stationary stand, with a television that could rotate 180 degrees to face either way

what you're talking about would be referred to as a "turntable". You might just have to make it yourself by driving an anchoring piece into the floor, then adding small casters to the corners if need be.

you would want a bearing swivel plate to mount to the floor, base it with wood to the height you need, and then mount your table.

something like this will even hold 1000 pounds and they're used in cabinet making. Which is basically what you are doing.

I have been very happy with Nano-oil.

Well, they'll work, but they'll probably spin for 10 seconds max. If you're getting a 3d printer spinner, you can get those cheap bearings for the edge holes and then get 1 good center bearing. I'd go with this one. May be more than you wanted to pay but off brand bearings won't spin long at all

I got this set from Amazon and it's way more than you need. I've sent a few sets to other friends who have gotten Ender 3s and still had leftovers for when I bought my second one.

For homemade purposes, there are better options than real linear bearings. A wheeled "cart", spring-loaded to ride on a track, will work just fine and can be made cheaply. You can also use heavy-duty drawer slides.

Have you looked at the Shapeoko? They are using rolling "carts" on angled tracks.

also, http://www.amazon.com/Linear-Motion-Length-Chrome-Hardened/dp/B002BBJ0CA/

Ideally you should use washers like these: https://www.amazon.com/1600pcs-Insulating-Washer-2mmx4mmx0-3mm-Motherboard/dp/B00TX5P3OG/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_2?keywords=1600pcs+Insulating+Fiber+Washer+Spacer+2mmx4mmx0.3mm+for+Motherboard&qid=1558147837&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull

​

However you can also just use a thin strip of electrical tape to cover whatever contacts the screws were touching on the pcb

I just ordered this kit, I'll let you know how it goes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0776KXY8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_pTfvCbBXTW5CQ

Edit: Parts came in and everything is fantastic. Installed the dampers and it is amazingly quiet.

Pretty generic Not super high quality, but a big improvement over the bearings my printer came with. They were rough.

Are you using the belts that came with it? They're plastic and are terrible and will cause all sorts of abnormalities in prints due to stretching and slippage. Get a roll of this instead, it's a cheap upgrade, but it probably won't be your last. :) :

https://www.amazon.com/Mercurry-Meters-timing-Rostock-GT2-6mm/dp/B071K8HYB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542164349&sr=8-1&keywords=fiberglass+belt+anet+a8

Replace the springs with some of the yellow ones, they'll help keep the bed level for much longer.

Here's an amazon link, you can find them on ebay and Aliexpress for cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Motherboard-Accessories-Compression-Creality/dp/B07GXC1G2B/

Or $9.95 with free shipping on Amazon.

A friend of mine uses a large stainless ball bearings as whiskey stones.

It'll rotate but not smoothly. I'd recommend you use turntable hardware instead. Read all the comments on the page to get a better understanding.

Also, remember that if your room is 4x4, a 4x4 square won't rotate in it, you'd have to make it circular or a smaller square.

Are you sure? Most BB bearings are about 1/4 in.

In any case, amazon sells them for cheap

Ex: https://www.amazon.ca/BC-Precision-BCBIKE5-500-Piece-Assorted/dp/B018B7D05K/

After doing quite of bit of reading, I went with these:

OTRMAX 4-Piece 8mm Longer Linear Motion Ball Bearing Double Side Rubber Seal Linear Bushing CNC Part LM8LUU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXTYSVL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5iPSBb8S68Y2Q

I'm pleased with them so far.

These work better than a mat. I just put them under main contact points of my trainer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BVEMLR4/

You want something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Plastic-Waterproof-Glands-Joints/dp/B005FIWYX8

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TX5P3OG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apap_2Bc7itOsKNMIl

You want this or something like it

I want to recommend this product at Amazon.com

FYSETC 3D Printer Motherboard Accessories 0.31 in OD 0.78 in Length Compression Springs Light Load for Creality CR-10 10S S4 Ender 3 Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect Leveling - 10 Pack
by Fuyuansheng
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_gPhXDbWZMATD3

I drilled, then used cable glands: http://amzn.to/1rXpLU6. I did put a dab of lap sealant for extra assurance, like wearing a belt AND suspenders!

If you're in North America (or at least USA), you'll have to figure out the diameter of your cable with this chart: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge#Tables_of_AWG_wire_sizes. Then match the diameter with the PG cable gland size with this chart: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge#Tables_of_AWG_wire_sizes. (I tried to find a chart with everything in one place but failed.)

> A 1/4" bearing from a "bike specific" company is the exact same thing as a 1/4" bearing from any other company

As long as they're not a terrible grade... Grade 25 is typical for bike use these days and they're cheap enough not to bother with something like a grade 300. There are still grade 300's being sold by bike companies, but like you said, they're more expensive (even though they're lower quality).

You should definitely replace any missing ball bearings, they are pretty cheap and will make the bearings smoother than they would be with some missing. Here are some bearings i got in the past that are good, but you can always just get the individual sizes you need instead.

Most hardware stores sell bearings in the specialty hardware section. Or something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B018B7D05K

Mercurry 5 Meters GT2 timing belt width 6mm Fit for RepRap Mendel Rostock Prusa GT2-6mm Belt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071K8HYB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t6UKBbPA9EA1A

here bought some like a week or two ago. Just clicked buying options and picked one.

Mercurry 5 Meters GT2 timing belt width 6mm Fit for RepRap Mendel Rostock Prusa GT2-6mm Belt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071K8HYB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lsKQBbB5MHDW2

just ordered this now realizing not sure if fiber glass, what are your thoughts on this belt??

Can't say for sure without knowing what size/specs, it will vary by brand as well, but this one I picked at random on Amazon says it's 0.6 ounces most will be around this.

When setting your springs make sure you wind them all the way tight and then back off two turns.

Also upgrade to the yellow springs. https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Motherboard-Accessories-Compression-Creality/dp/B07GXC1G2B

Sure

These are what I have

Surprisingly cheap. Here is a grab bag of 500 bearings of assorted sizes between 1/8 and 1/4" for $8.

This is what I use (for the middle bearing):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKBUR1Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(for the outside bearings)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBD6X4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I timed my spin to 2mins 20 seconds. Not too bad

You can get an assortment of bearings on amazon. I got these when i serviced my bike: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018B7D05K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are several videos on youtube for first time ender 3 setup. Mostly they cover some detailed orientated techniques like...

1. make sure all assemblies are square.
   
   
2. The belts should be tight but make a low note when plucked
   
   
3. your bed should not be able to wiggle side to side (tighten rollers)
   
   
4. Your z axis rod shouldn't need to be bent into place (print a spacer after initial assembly and install)
   
   
5. Buy new springs off of amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY47BX7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
   
6. Buy new tube for filament feeder (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Replace the springs as well. They are questionably adequate for the stock bed, let alone one with a glass sheet attached.

here are some I bought from Amazon, took about a week to ship.

1600pcs Insulating Fiber Washer Spacer 2mmx4mmx0.3mm for Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TX5P3OG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_r-PuDbQQ5GXZJ

I see these

https://www.creality3donline.com/creality-2pcs-cr-10-ender-extruder-spring_p0153.html

Or should I buy some yellow ones from amazon?

FYSETC 3D Printer Motherboard Accessories 0.31 in OD 0.78 in Length Compression Springs Light Load for Creality CR-10 10S S4 Ender 3 Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect Leveling - 10 Pack
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9YFnDb0DV66V4

I would suggest manual operation. Attach timing pulleys to your threaded rods, wrap a timing belt around all four, and then just pull on the belt in either direction to raise/lower the table. The biggest trick here is that you have to splice the belt together on your own and you'd need to calculate the available throw vs screw pitch vs gear teeth to make sure your splice doesn't need to roll over the gears to get the height you need.

I bought some of these off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BVEMLR4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I cut them into four smaller 2"x2" squares and printed some feet for the bottom of the printer to hold them in place. My printer already sits on a solid 2" thick wood base but this helped cut the noise and noticeable vibrations transmitted through my enclosure.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4/

Some of these anti vibration pads to make the printer quieter, cut up into smaller pieces. I haven't really noticed a big noise difference with these (the concrete blocks I added later made a much bigger difference) but I keep them on there anyways.

I would also suggest a damper on the Y-axis motor, that made a huge difference in noise and vibration.

Stock springs are cheap and not well under tension. They caused me a lot of balance issues

https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Motherboard-Accessories-Compression-Creality/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3G99LZGFOMNBI&keywords=ender+3+bed+springs&qid=1556590607&s=gateway&sprefix=ender+3+bed+&sr=8-3

This is what I use.
http://www.amazon.com/Capacity-Bearing-Turntable-Bearings-VXB/dp/B0045DV04I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408495735&sr=8-1&keywords=12+lazy+susan+bearing

> Beds need leveling,

https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Motherboard-Accessories-Compression-Creality/dp/B07GXC1G2B/

Try using some of these. Diversitech MP4-E E.V.A. Anti-Vibration Pad, 4" x 4" x 7/8" Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S8XfAbH5554VM
Put one under each corner of the furnace where it sits on the trusses. You might need a total of six depending on how the AC coil is mounted.

I use these

Wiha set for disassembly (torx screws).

10 weight Nano Oil for lube (not cheap but works very well).

Qtips, alcohol and cloth for cleaning.

I've been using these: https://smile.amazon.com/FYSETC-Motherboard-Accessories-Compression-Creality/dp/B07GXC1G2B

FYSETC 3D Printer Motherboard Accessories 0.31 in OD 0.78 in Length Compression Springs Light Load for Creality CR-10 10S S4 Ender 3 Heatbed Springs Bottom Connect Leveling - 10 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_92l7CbYBEGJYC

As far as the bearing goes, I've seen them from $10 (vxb via amazon) all the to the $100s. I personally haven't bought any full ceramic ones yet, but I'm waiting on some of the spinners I ordered to arrive so I might be looking to replace them if I'm not content with the ones that come in the unit.

Buy these and swap em in.

Less bed wobble, less leveling in the long term.

As others said, vibration is the real issue.I made a platform with these: https://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP4-V-Anti-Vibration-Pack/dp/B00BVEMLR4 and some insulating panel from home depot and helped quite a lot with the vibration coming from my kickr.

edit: inflating -> insulating

This is the lube I use, and it's amazing

Replace the Bowden pneumatic clamps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TTWWN1/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_uweXCbDCRQK7D

Capricorn Bowden tube

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B67GG75/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_VyeXCbA0WGRWQ

Springs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KF9LZ2L/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_zBeXCbD24BJN2

All 3 as they are really cheap.

Bowden Tube

Aluminum Extruder

Bed springs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXC1G2B/. These are a game changer. They are so stiff and leveling the bed is so much more accurate.

This, btw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071K8HYB4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

List of mods on my Ender 3 Pro:

1. Glass bed
   
   
2. Capricorn PTFE tubing
   
   
3. Creality all metal extruder
   
   
4. Upgraded bed springs
   
   
5. Feet Noise Dampers
   
   
6. Filament Guide
   
   I use Cura for my slicer, and use the default setting there for the Ender 3.

That's actually a good idea. Put newspaper down and a sponge or two. I bought a nice plastic container on Amazon that has multiple latches. It was kind of pricey but it is what it is. I also bought some anti vibration pads for under the container. I've read that the vibrations from driving can really stress snakes out. I'll include the links below.

IRIS Weathertight Storage Box, 41 Quart Weathertight - Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IB0JCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VNvaAbT3RJ52R

Diversitech MP4-E E.V.A. Anti-Vibration Pad, 4" x 4" x 7/8" Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OOvaAbF5QXAQW

Haven't tried these, but I have seen them recommended a few times. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06X9TVW64/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527124792&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=uxcell+5mm+8mm&psc=1

There are cheaper spiral cut flex couplers out there too. 5mm to 8mm is what you need. Can also try swapping the couplers on either side and see if the issue moves to the other side. Do some research on properly mounting and adjusting them before you attempt though.

For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in

https://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Bearing-8x22x7-Bearings-VXB/dp/B002BBQDW0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484208187&sr=8-3&keywords=vxb+ceramic

and make it:

https://amzn.com/B002BBQDW0

BEEP BOP

Plz send any recommendations via PM

If I have a Hero5 Session how can I charge it and it be waterproof. I need to leave it outside for a timelapse that is going to last for 8 hours. I was thinking about buying this and these to make a waterproof case. The external battery wouldn't run it as long as I need it for, but the case is large enough to connect the charger inside it. I would do something similar to this

Is it the raw seek noise of the drives that is annoying, or the seek noise amplified by the cabinet the NAS is sitting in?

I used to have a TiVo on top of an armoire in the bedroom that echoed through the wood.. one of those relatively cheap floor mats for fatigue (foam mats that interlock) solved the problem for me entirely.. You could still hear the seek in a silent room, but not with the TV on. I now have a similar problem with 3d printers upstairs from my bedroom.. these work wonderfully to isolate the vibrations away from the cabinet and keep the sound at bay: Diversitech MP4-E E.V.A. Anti-Vibration Pad, 4" x 4" x 7/8" Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_DK2JDbBSHP855

The stock Ender 3 extruder is mostly plastic, and the spring in it is very weak. Often the extruder will crack or break, and the filament ends up digging a groove into the arm.

As for bed springs, something like this will do:
https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Motherboard-Accessories-Compression-Creality/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=3d+printer+spring&qid=1554171742&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I've basically had this problem for about 2.5 years and have posted about it about 6 times, this was the first time anyone knew what it was.

Here's the changes/settings I've made:

EEPROM:

• X axis acceleration: 800
  
• Y axis acceleration: 700
  
• X jerk: 5
  
  Cura 4.2.1:
  
  
• Wall line count: 4
  
• Top Thickness 1mm
  
• Bottom thickness: .7 mm
  
• Print speed: 50 mm/s
  
• Travel speed: 120 mm/s
  
• Initial Layer speed: 25 mm/s
  
  Upgrades to the printer (apart from those already mentioned):
  
  
• Running on a RPi3 with OctoPi/Octoprint
  
• Got rid of the spring tensioners and used these instead https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1784375
  
• New bearings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXTYSVL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1728482
  
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1635585
  
  The rest of my settings tend to vary based on what I'm printing; and my retraction currently isn't dialed in.

No, the lowest I see anywhere is a pack of two for bones red but for 1 dollar more (5.50 if you divide 9 by 2) you can get a single all ceramic bearing
I took off my sheilds with a knife. But that is because I bought ones with non-removable shields. Here is a video which apparently shows how to remove the shield

I use these in my apartment: https://www.amazon.com/Diversitech-MP4-V-Anti-Vibration-Pack/dp/B00BVEMLR4/

seems to work for my angry downstairs neighbor.

Well it's not quiet to be honest but you'll have a hard time dampening the noise no matter how you go about it, I do recommend getting vibration dampening cube thingies (like this or maybe this) to put under your rig just so the noise won't travel into the floor which will make it exponentially louder. Those anti vibration things also help keep the vibration in the rig rather than dispersing it into your surrounding area.

As for structural integrity, I've had no issues. I got a tube of threadlocker in case the screws would vibrate loose but I haven't put it on yet and they are still as tight as the day I put them in so I wouldn't worry too much.

Ender 3 pro.

Creality magnetic build surface.

Black matchbox PLA at 200 C

Print bed at 60 C

Using the most recent version of Cura.

I'm using the "Normal" 0.15 mm layer height preloaded setting in Cura. I'm guessing that this is a bed leveling problem, as the only thing that changed between the first 2 pics is that I installed [new bed springs] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXC1G2B?pf_rd_p=f3acc539-5d5f-49a3-89ea-768a917d5900&pf_rd_r=N121Q03JSDJ7ST88QJ8M). I did have a hell of a time getting them back to being level after the install, but I thought I had it.

Any thoughts?

This bullshit.

US $17

Canada $100?!

Probably nothing. There's a good chance you're extruder gear is slipping. IMO the stock spring doesn't put out enough force to grip the filament and there's no mechanism to tension it. I would recommend one of the following:

• check the that the bolt on your filament feeder's pivot arm is loose enough to allow the spring to tension. if it's tight it won't tension well.
  
• stretch your spring (only temporary, will get weaker again)
  
• get new springs
  
• print this spacer for extra tension (only temporary, in my case the spring got weaker)
  
• print this extruder tensioner i made that will allow you to adjust the tension
  
  Pull out some filament and check for solid bite marks. If you don't have any or have very light bite marks you know your issue.
  
  ​
  
  It's on my todo list to merge my model with the newest extruder bracket so you can tension the spring easily.