Reddit mentions: The best powersports brake products

Do not buy an SM harness... That is exactly what someone who owns an SM would say (although I own one too).. but, I have both an E and an SM and have done plenty of swapping of parts between the two, i can assure you there are far more differences than you realize and you will not be happy when you are trying to mate up everything You simply just need to add a new extra, more simple harness for street legal applications. Lots of places sell these, but if you are convinced on doing your own I will write something up below.

As I mentioned above.. the SM harness will have neutral light wiring, clutch wiring, kickstand wiring, fan wiring, entire cluster wiring, a different run/stop switch wiring and so on... The harness is ~$250 new.. used will be ~$70 and up before shipping. And, unless you want to buy all the oem bar/lever switches, instrument cluster, and so on you will be cutting all the factory connectors off anyway and buying new ones. So really, you just spent $100 bucks on wires, and now you have a harness tied into your frame with any number of wires that are not used but are still wrapped in with those that are needed. Need I even mention, that there is the level of effort in removing your existing harness to put the new one in. If you haven't done it before, then I reserve the "i told you so" card for when you start thinking you should have just ran new wires. Why rip out all the current working wiring on your bike just to run lights and a horn? You really just need to take your time and snake some new wiring through on top of the existing ones.

What you will need:
A spool set of multi colored stranded wire for $30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N51OO7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ZOwHxbBZEX0R4
black electrical tape
wire loom if you want it.. lots of black tape will work
If you want to get fancy and connect things up nicely, get a handful of universal auto connectors, nice and pricey ones are "deutsch" connectors but spade connectors will work just fine. all the turn signals are 2 pin. the taillight is 3, headlight is 2 pins per light.. (high and low) depending on which you get. Brake light switches are 2 pins each (front and rear). All the relays are typically spade connectors, and there will probably be 6 of these. You will also need 2 for the horn.

Tap into power anywhere after the ignition switch.. so that your lights only come on when you have key-turned.. there is a number of places to do this then run power to your control on the handlebar.Ground will be from all over, best place is the battery though.

Taillight might as well be powered directly from the ignition.. it comes on all the time when the key is turned. Same with headlight, but you will need to switch that between high and low. this takes care of your rear running light.

Typical handlebar control you should get.. i didnt look long and this one may be a bit pricey, but it has all the switching you need. https://www.amazon.com/Technologies-12-0055-Off-Road-Multi-Function-Handlebar/dp/B000IOO4KK/ref=pd_sim_263_33?ie=UTF8&dpID=414eakRFE3L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=0XT37ZA8388WFWNJSQQK

You can use 2 relays for the whole setup.

For the headlight.. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CTI0/84601/N0381.oap?ck=Search_N0381_-1_4631&pt=N0381&ppt=C0335#compatibilityTab_ will work fine. the switch i made above goes before the relay and has two wires coming out of it(one high, one low).. and one common going in.. Connect a +vdc going into the common.. the other two outs will be going to relay.. one for high beams on 87, the other for lows/running + on 86. ground goes on 85. Headlights done.

Flasher relay for your blinkers.. .. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/NOV0/EP34/01546.oap?year=2001&make=Suzuki&model=Swift&vi=1375130&ck=Search_relay_01546_1375130_4631&keyword=relay&pt=01546&ppt=C0117
This also goes before your turn signal switch.. the relay has a power in.. B, and then a ground.. E, then a flashing VDC out, L. L goes to the handlebar common input and the controls have 2 going out.. one goes to Front & rear Left.. the other Front and Rear Rigtht. each turn signal has a ground as a second wire. here is a simple picture.. http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk204/freddyflatfoot/Signal0_zpsd66b34a5.jpg.. for the relay i linked, the B is X in the pic.. L is L and the E is for ground or P in the picture. turn signals should work now.

The annoying part of all this will be the brake switches... E model frames do not have the welded bolt holes for the S/SM switches for the rear. Also your front brake levers do not have bolt holes for switches. Yet again, another failure point if you go with an SM harness. To get these working, I would go with banjo bolt pressure switches for both front and rear.. just need to make sure that you get the right size to replace the oem banjo bolts. Here is an example.. (may not be the right size)..https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTV0RC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0039ZTQEO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=G97BJBWZ2KJBAABS9H7T If you dont go with banjo bolts, you need to rig something up for spring activated switches on the factory E levers, which dont have any mounting points, unlike the SM models. Once you do this, you will run two grounds to the brake light. +vdc will go directly to the light, the two grounds will go to the light via the two switches. When either one of the brake switches is hit.. it completes a path to ground and the light will come on. Brakes are only annoying because of the need to refill your brakes. (good opportunity for steel braid lines! if you wanted them anyway).

The horn works just like the brake.. power to the horn, ground through the momentary switch built into the controls.

Put a fuse or (multiple if you prefer) inline for the wiring you just.. somewhere between the ignition and the components.

Your last bit you need to figure out is a speedometer, and you could get an S/SM cluster to make it easy.. except on money.. but a Trail Tech Endurance is much cheaper ($89.99 new) than a used factory instrument panel and comes with the wheel sensor you need. If you get the striker or vapor you can get a sweet looking indicator panel to go over it that will give you turn signal indicators, and so on (extra wiring needed though). Trail Techs are accurate once wheel speed is set correctly and they are really.. really easy to install. So much that KTM/Berg/Husky uses the same reed switches mechanism for speedo function. If you do this, remove the old speedo cable, plug the hole in the stock wheel sensor up with a rubber plug or epoxy(if you never will use it again) and then leave the sensor there as a spacer for your wheel. I think some sites sell a spacer to eliminate it.. I cannot remember.

Thats it.. You would have horn, signals, headlights, taillights/ brake lights, speedo and you didnt mess with your factory wiring one bit, which means the only thing that will possibly NOT work when you are done is your lights or horn.

I could try to draw up a crude wiring schematic if you really need, or I can answer questions as you do it if you feel it is something you want to try. Either way, I have faith most people can figure this out with some guidance from the forums, youtube, and google.

Just for reference changing my brake discs was the first real DIY job I did on my car (after servicing), it's quite straightforward but you need a few tools.

Just in case you're tempted to have a go I've copied and pasted what I used from another post.

• A jack (your car may come with a basic scissor one).
  
• Jack stands
  
• Some chocks (I just use wood ones I made out of some spare fence posts).
  
• A socket and spanner set
  
• Impact screwdriver
  
• A breaker bar
  
• Some copper grease to prevent squeaking.
  
• Maybe some pry bars.
  
• A brake rewind tool.
  
• A bungee cord and WD40 help too.
  
  Edit: You'll need some brake cleaner to get the packing grease off the disks before installing too.
  
  Not all are essential (e.g. impact screwdriver only if you have brake screws and they're really tight). Some things can be had for cheaper too (I just have a Machine Mart and Halfords close by). You could also borrow a few things.
  
  Still probably cheaper than the Labour costs on one brake job, and super satisfying doing yourself. The advantage of an older car (mines 2004) is that they're generally super easy to work on.

Since you said a few things, let me organize my responses.

1. Thanks for the data point, definitely what I'm looking for. Incidentally on the screwdriver trick: I used to do that, but I bought one of those Park pad spreader tools on a lark one day, & man, is it worth the cash. the beveled edge & thick body really help get the pistons spread evenly, easier than a screwdriver, especially on quad piston brakes. Worth the cash for sure.
   
   
2. are you talking about the bolts that hold the caliper body together, or the mounting bolts? If you're talking about the mounting bolts, I've done that. my problem is, I get it set so it doesn't rub, tighten down the bolts, & then if I have to take the wheel off, it will rub again when mount the wheel back up. Only way to fix it is to loosen the mounting bolts again & realign.

These are the ones I use, and throroghly support them. EBC makes some very good stuff, and in my experience, these are about the best you can get (for the money).

edit:
These also fit:

Bonneville & T100 (2001 - 2015)

Bonneville Mag Wheel (2009 - 2015)

Scrambler (2006 - 2016)

Speedmaster (2005 - 2016)

America 900 (2007-2016)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002VR5LLI/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1346985667&sr=8-3

Cost a little more than I remembered it costing. But I think it would be worth it to help protect your bike. But I think they're still working the kinks out of the bleach spraying system lol.

Search Ebay for "cnc levers ninja 250". There's way less of a selection for an 07 but they can be had for under $50 bucks. I have them on my 08 and they're great. Performance upgrade would include upgrading to HH pads http://www.amazon.com/EBC-Double-H-Sintered-Brake-FA129HH/dp/B000GRZIMC and changing out your brake fluid. Still under budget and you get much more than just looks.

i know its not what you asked but.... i just went with the Centric/Stoptech rotors. rears were 37 a piece and fronts are currently $50 a piece (no PP). also for a mk7, not sure what you have. But IMO this was a great deal and they are good rotors. i'd be curious if your finding the Textar rotors for even cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CRML0K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y3XJ36/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For Rotors, yeah, you do have to remove the spindle nut. The front rotors are not simply the normal "top hat" style. This year (and maybe previous years?) includes the front bearings as part of the rotors. They're sealed bearings, so you can't add any grease, nor should you lose any.

Here are some photos, that don't really show it too well.

I use a disc brake alarm, they are really loud and you have to get them off super fast if you don't want an earful of bloodcurdling beeping, but much smaller and more effective then a big chain that can just be cut. http://www.amazon.com/XX6-SS-Disc-Lock-Alarm-Motorcycle-Stainless/dp/B002VR5LLI/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1398705622&sr=1-4&keywords=disc+brake+lock+motorcycle

I would go to ex500.org and register on the forums first. Anyways here's my top mods:

• Replaced clutch springs with stiffer ones - this helps at higher RPMs because the stock ones start weak and get weaker with age $10.80
  
  
• Replaced rear shock with stocker from a new gen ninjette because it's a lot stiffer and raises the bike a bit $49.99
  
  
• Removed the pair system because it does nothing good and with exhaust it makes popping noises $15.00
  
  
• K&N air filter installed and drilled 4 Half Inch holes in the left side of airbox $49.99
  
  
• Airbox mod requires carb tweaking so I opened up the carbs and rebuilt them for reliability $45
  
  
• Got some shorty levers 36.99
  
  
• Replaced stock ignition with Coil on Plug type ignition for an '08 ZX6R - prices vary but i got mine for 40 bucks including harness.
  
  
• New sparks gapped at .30" $8.10
  
  
• Higher quality front brakes $32.00
  
  
• Oil changed to Shell Rotella T $19.16
  
  
• Avon Roadrider tires big upgrade over stock. Prices vary I got mine for 350 installed both front and rear
  
  
• Best for last: Racetech .90kg/mm springs with gold valves $300
  
  

That was the idea indeed. My S1000RR inherited the disc lock from my Vespa I started with :) Now I'm buying one monster of a disc lock. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Abus-Granit-Detecto-10556753-Alarm/dp/B008PFB8AI/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1407682617&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=abus+granit+detecto

Looks like this one

Xena X1-Y Disc Lock

The same factories that make the Xena produces Kovix as well. Same thing, different brand name. search on ebay

Vagabond makes a relocation kit (bracket) that tucks the reservoir up by the motor. I've been thinking about getting it, but I ride in hot weather and my brakes get a little spongy in traffic as it is.
Anyway, here's a link to the bracket on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Vagabond-Motorsports-VM-Y702-Reservoir-Relocation/dp/B00PPQE1OA/

It depends on the weight and package size.

Just using some random ones I found on Amazon for an estimation, selling for $30 will leave you around $22, assuming they sell within 30 days.

If they are slow sellers (>6 months), you will have additional storage fees.

I don' know, I had these for a while on my 2nd gen and never had a problem with them.

https://www.amazon.com/Foreverun-Motor-Sintered-KAWASAKI-2008-2015/dp/B00D402IVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523824155&sr=8-4&keywords=klr+front+brake+pads

Here it is: CNC Aluminum Engine Protective Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW2P83U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EzYvybTZ36BWQ

It's $98

http://www.amazon.com/XX6-SS-Disc-Lock-Alarm-Motorcycle-Stainless/dp/B002VR5LLI

Is this the one I should replace?
https://www.amazon.com/SWITCH-SCOOTER-4-STROKE-TAOTAO-ROKETA/dp/B01GAFIG36/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_2?keywords=brake+switch+taotao+atm50&qid=1569264223&sr=8-2-fkmr3

>Hope Tech 3 E4's

https://www.amazon.com/Hope-Tech-E4-Disc-Brake/dp/B00U93EZYK?th=1&psc=1

$206 shipped for the red/black rear i was looking at

Rear break reservoir delete

On my bike, the reservoir and master cylinder are cast into the same unit. Like so. Seems to be the same on tigerdude's bike.

I lived in a ghetto apartment complex and that is exactly what I did. I ran the chain through the frame and around a big pipe that went through the ceiling and floor. Then I parked my car in front of it so that no one could wheel it out even if they did break the chain and lock. But it was just an old GS500. If I had a late model sportbike I doubt it would have gone a week without getting stolen.

https://www.amazon.com/XX6-SS-Disc-Lock-Alarm-Motorcycle-Stainless/dp/B002VR5LLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499878417&sr=8-1&keywords=xena+alarm

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/stockton-721-security-chain-and-lock

https://www.amazon.com/XYZCTEM-Season-Waterproof-Motorcycle-Lockholes/dp/B0142IHKX0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1499878506&sr=1-1&keywords=motorcycle+cover

>Strongest Motorcycle Chain Bolt Cutter Cropper Proof

>XENA (XX6-SS) Disc-Lock Alarm for Motorcycle

I'm going to get a disc lock alarm and one of these to stick somewhere near the handlebars as a deterrent. No real gps tracker but it might stop some people who are thinking about it.

At home either store it in a garage or buy a cover and park it out of view of the road