Reddit mentions: The best powersports drive train parts

We found 123 Reddit comments discussing the best powersports drive train parts. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 92 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

20. Sunstar 42116 Countershaft Sprocket

Case hardened, chromoly steel constructionParkerized surface treatment for rust and corrosion resistanceGreat OEM quality at a non-OEM price
Sunstar 42116 Countershaft Sprocket
Specs:
Colorblack
Height1 Inches
Length5 Inches
Weight0.55 Pounds
Width1 Inches
Release dateApril 2012
Size16t
Number of items1
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🎓 Reddit experts on powersports drive train parts

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where powersports drive train parts are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Powersports Drive Train Parts:

u/Andonon · 1 pointr/SVRiders

Barely...

I have three responses. 06 SV650S here. 520 kit (-1/+2, Chain and Sprocket below), K&N, DanMoto XG1 baffleless.

0) Do a Chain and Sprocket first. IMPO the PCV does little to increase acceleration, the changes are more dynamic the just raw power. (I don't know what a Zero Map is). Replacing your stock 530 pitch chain and sprockets with light weight (NOT Aluminum) 520 bits is one of the coolest upgrades. The 520 kit improve acceleration, wheel horsepower and torque by reducing rotating mass.

  1. PC V with a Dyno tune = YES! << I'm planning to get this done but not for power, I'm looking to lean out the bike for efficiency after the chain and sprocket set. I want better mileage, lower the richness.

  2. PC V with downloaded maps = NO!!! << I removed mine and enjoy the bike more. It runs rich either way. Without the PCV the bike seems better across the power band. I have added a couple maps, some changes, still always rich.

    Note: I've had two NGK cr8e spark plugs fail/foul in the last 6 months. Care Extras with you if your running rich.
u/godofleet · 1 pointr/motorcycles

> will that speedo/guage cluster work on the gen 1? I've still got the sport cluster on mine, yuck.

I can't say i know the Gen-1 however I do know that TrailTech makes kits for the Gen 1 and they are easy to add.

> did you need to coat the inside of your PVC brake reservoir with something? Once painted, does it look nicer than stock? I think mine is ugly.

I ditched that DIY reservoir after about 3 months, it was just a total eye sore (it was 100% functional though, i didn't coat it, PVC is tough shit.)

I'm now doing this, it's been good for a long while now:

http://i.imgur.com/X7b95dk.jpg

Read more about it here:
http://www.ducati.ms/forums/56-superbikes/103606-tygon-clear-brake-reservoir-hose.html

The hose/tube is "Tygon 2075" - super chemical resistant.

This solution works really well too, my brakes are no different than before and i can always see the level in there.

> where did you get that chain, how much did it run you?

I'm assuming you're talking about the blue chain:

http://www.amazon.com/Suzuki-SV650S-1999-2012-O-Ring-Chain/dp/B0052PPKDA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411845373&sr=8-1&keywords=525+sv650+chain+blue

They're alright chains, be sure to maintain it though, mine went about 7k miles which isn't really a lot but then again, it's a $60 chain.

I've since moved to this:
http://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Chain-3068-998S-Conversion/dp/B0031BNDRC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411845455&sr=8-1&keywords=sv650+520+chain+conversion

> did you find an HID setup that worked? I'd love a good HID headlight, but haven't researched it yet.

I grabbed this kit

http://www.bkmoto.com/Motorcycle%20HID%20kits/Universal%20Motorcycle%20HID%20kits/Motorcycle%20HID%20kit

I think at the time he actually had a SV650 kit on the site but i went for the universal because I wasn't sure how it would fit in the LSL Urban headlight assembly/bucket.

As it turns out, it's a lot more simple than it appears, the most difficult part is that the HID bulb is HUGE and you won't be able to install it like a normal bulb- generally you have to remove the face of the headlight (glass/plastic part)- the LSL Urban took about 20 minutes of blasting with a heat gun and prying with a screw driver before it came apart, I installed the HID assembly and glued it all back together with some clear caulk.

Once the main assembly is installed you can put new HID bulbs in through the back the normal way, so it's easy from there on out- that said, i've never had to replace a HID bulb in my 4 years experience (in my car too) with them.

> have you found any good/cheap tank bags, hard or soft?

cyclegear.com, amazon.com, ebay.com, check the forums (svrider.com) too - the one that spent most of my time with was $25 at cycle gear- it was an "Iron Rider" ... simple clear plastic screen and a big zipper around the top, not water proof but it held a lunch/phone/wallet/tool roll pretty easily.

Now i just use a Ogio Mach 3 backpack because looking like a turtle is cool or something.

>how did you remove the dents from your gas tank? How did color matching go?

I wish. No that tank got thrown out as scrap- there was no saving it :) I just snagged a scratch / dent off of ebay that was the same year/color- it had one tiny nick in the top ... 100% functional otherwise. $300.




u/Asthmatic_Panda · 10 pointsr/DRZ400

The DRC Edge tail light seems to be pretty common. That's the integrated one with an upgraded circuit board but the one that's just a tail light can be bought here. The Acerbis supermoto fender seems to be popular for the front. My friend has a pair of these Zeta hand guards with turn signals that I really like. As far as racks, my favorite is the b&b rack but they're based out of Australia. Any all metal shift lever such as this or this will probably help with black marks from the rubber on the stock one. I have a Corbin seat from the previous owner and I don't really like it much more than stock. I'd probably get a Seat Concepts or a Renazco. As far as foot pegs, I had a bike with IMS pegs and I liked those for the short time I had it.

u/catherineirkalla · 1 pointr/scooters

Here is a tuning kit

> do the weights matter if I get some stage six one or some generic ones

Unless you are racing a decent set (of 6) is probably $10 or you can go fancy and get $15 ones. NCY weights are more like $20 but I'd consider that high end fancy schmancy.

It's worth noting that your weights should be inspected/changed every 1000 or so miles anyway, so if you bought used it would probably be good to go ahead and change them. Here is a very good GY6 service manual too BTW

You will likely also (arguably) need a torque wrench for reassembling the transmission and a clutch holder. If you don't have these you can get by using other methods or a strap wrench

Its worth noting there are also sliders that you can use instead of rollers. If it makes any difference probably has to do with the slope in your variator and the design of the slider. There are many, many different combinations.

I found one source that says:

> "for every .5 grams heavier , it seems as if you loose about 250 rpms or so. Maybe a little less. "

but I cannot say if that is accurate or not.

You might also be able to change your variator to get a little bit more difference as well. As with changing weights its something some people seem to swear by and others say does nothing. Either way companies like NCY make nice parts that may be lighter and generate less/dissapate more heat, last longer, and offer a smoother ride than stock parts. If you go this route you can usually do it one piece at a time.

I'm still pretty new to all this though :-O so by all means if someone sees I said something inaccurate let me know!

u/Degoragon · 3 pointsr/motorizedbicycles

Amazon or eBay will have a brake kit.

CNC Adaptor: https://www.amazon.com/UAUS-Sprocket-Adapter-Motorized-Bicycle/dp/B07ZJ3STLC/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1RF5YNX546933&keywords=motorized+bicycle+sprocket+adapter+kit&qid=1574881286&sprefix=motorized+bicyle+sp%2Caps%2C319&sr=8-6

Disc Brake kit: https://www.amazon.com/BlueSunshine-Front-Back-Disk-Brake/dp/B07458MXNB/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=motorized+bicycle+disc+brake+kit&qid=1574883409&sr=8-1
Note: The CNC hub has a 6 bolt pattern near the center of the hub to bolt the rear disc onto. If you wish to use disc up front, you will need a front wheel or hub that can adapt to disc brakes. You can also find 26" wheels with these disc brake hubs already installed.

Front disc brake will need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Life-Adjustable-Bracket-Mounting/dp/B019OML8VE/ref=pd_bxgy_468_2/136-3711700-3661816?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019OML8VE&pd_rd_r=9be28cda-a6eb-4e2e-917e-90974ef50b31&pd_rd_w=wq72u&pd_rd_wg=XttIU&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=26T3QTM8CF54HNDW67HP&psc=1&refRID=26T3QTM8CF54HNDW67HP

For the front, you will need a new front wheel. https://www.amazon.com/Alex-Rims-Alloy-Front-Wheel/dp/B01FWHAHEE/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=26+x+1.75+bike+rim+disc&qid=1574887171&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1

Disc Brakes are ideal, (better stopping) but if you don't want to go the hassle of installing them, you can instead opt for v brakes.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cruiser-Steel-73-91mm-Chrome/dp/B000AO5J16/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=motorized+bicycle+v+brake+kit&qid=1574883735&sr=8-12

Use this video as a guide to installing disc brakes on your bike (please note, the rear disc will be bolted to the motorized bike sprocket, so, its mainly good for the front.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emW7M-ZD0Pw&t=104s


Also, if you prefer "Mag" wheels as opposed to spokes, here's a nice set of BBR tuning mags for $119. These Include the motorized bicycle rear sprocket, so the above listed CNC Sprocket Adapter will NOT be needed if you buy these wheels. The Mags are disc brake ready, no additional adapters needed outside of the front and rear caliper mounts.

https://www.amazon.com/BBR-Tuning-Mountain-Cruisers-Motorized/dp/B076PWYSFS/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=bicycle+disc+brake+wheel&qid=1574884536&refinements=p_n_feature_six_browse-bin%3A6404041011%2Cp_36%3A-20000&rnid=386589011&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-10

Make sure everything fits your bike before purchase. Also, feel free to do some research.

u/ParticleSpinClass · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Hello!

I've got a 2012 FZ8, and I just replaced the chain and both sprockets. Here's what I used:

  • DID 525VXGB X-Ring Chain
  • Sunstar 42116 Countershaft Sprocket
  • Sunstar 2-459546 Rear Sprocket

    The problem: Pretty much any time I'm moving, I get a pretty loud whirring/buzzing/whining sound coming from the area of the front sprocket. I'm 98% it's the chain itself, at the moment it rotates around the front sprocket. Here's the facts:

  • Increases in pitch as speed increases (though 35-45mph seems to increase sharply)
  • Increases amplitude as load increases (e.g. it's much louder at 3/4 throttle than at 1/8th throttle)
  • I might have those mixed up (my memory sucks)
  • Only appears under positive load (cruise/acceleration)
  • Almost completely disappears under negative load (deceleration)
  • Still occurs with the clutch in and coasting, but not as loud
  • Stock sprocket has a rubber insert, new sprocket does not (I imagine this could have something to do with it)

    I've adjusted the chain to spec and aligned the sprockets the best I could. When I installed the chain, I cleaned off the grease that came with it with kerosene, let it dry, and went for a test ride. I've since (after the test ride to warm up the chain) applied chain lube and haven't ridden it since. This is the first time I've changed a chain on a bike before. Is this sound normal? Does it go away? It's not terribly annoying, since my leg blocks 90% of the noise (I only hear it when I move my head to the side, or open up my legs), but I just want to make sure I didn't do anything wrong. I torqued all nuts to spec on both sprockets and the axle. I've put the front sprocket cover back on (I had it off during the test ride), so I imagine that it will muffle the sound a bit. I also normally ride with earplugs so that will help too.

    Here's a video that shows the sound. I only get up to aboue 25-30mph, but you can still hear it. Notice that once I cut the throttle, the sound disappears. And keep in mind that it's a lot louder than the video makes it seem.

    Thanks!
u/LBKewee · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Outisde of the BBK, you can do quite a bit. A 14t front sprocket will give you a bit more acceleration while reducing your top speed 6.667%. For me, it made 4th gear a little more usable.

You can also modify your airbox for really cheap, get a cool air intake kit(~$100), or just stick a cone air filter(K&N R-1100 ~$40) over the top of your throttle body and remove the entire airbox/snorkel.

Since they're pretty popular, you can also get slip-on mufflers for them. My full yosh system was ~$500 and my buddy did the FMF slip on for ~$300. I'm sure there are cheaper exhaust options out there.

They're just so easy to work on! I was not confident in working on bikes until a friend helped me install the 143 kit and since then I do most of the service on my other bikes too.

u/King-bobby-b · 1 pointr/MotoUK

> Is there a particular crash bar or bung that is considered better than another? (I know this will vary from one bike to another but any recommendations?)

I tend to favour bars over bungs.

Reason being is that they tend to protrude more, they're a little more ugly depending on who you ask but who cares if it's all about safety and keeping the bills low?

> any recommendations for cleaning and maintenance products?

I like "muc-off", personally as far as cleaning goes. You just spray this stuff on, leave it 5 minutes and rinse off.

For cleaning your chain I recommend the good old toothbrush and some chain cleaner.

For chain lube, I think the general go-to is dry lube.

> I'd actually live to make a bike maintenance product and timescale recommendation superthread if that's allowed?

I'm not sure - but there is a motouk subreddit wiki.

u/throwaway_awaythrown · 2 pointsr/xbiking

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

​

Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

u/CulturalTortoise · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

You're going to need a chain brush, chain cleaner and chain lube regardless. So buy them now, try clean it up and if it has no rust on, you should be good.

Chain brush


Chain cleaner (this really helps!)


I've had slight rust on a chain before on one spot, this cleaned it right up. To be completely honest, that chain looks done though. Get a new one to be on the safe side.

u/TrailChaser · 2 pointsr/XR650L

Very nice. Love the new/clean look.

Have you done the almost mandatory first mod of swapping the countershaft sprocket with one made for a xr650r? I recommend getting that knocked out before the first 1000 or so miles.

Reason: The stock sprocket on the countershaft is too thin. If left on it will eventually wear thru the splines on the shaft and spin. When you install it; it will go on backwards.(writing towards the engine)
One of the biggest "What to look out for" when buying a used xr650l is to look at that sprocket and see if it's been welded to the shaft. If you ever see one with a welded sprocket...not swapping is the reason.

http://www.amazon.com/renthal-283-520-15gp-ultralight-tooth-sprocket/dp/B000GTW5E4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1411213226&sr=8-3&keywords=renthal+xr650r+sprocket

u/Neandarthal · 1 pointr/MTB

haha sorry for the newb bicycle limbo. I meant one of those things that protect your chain from coming off in the front. A chain guide to be precise.

I'm looking at this raceface 32T chainring. Would I still need shorter chainring bolts etc?

I have a long cage X9 in the rear. It's a type-2 (which I think is similar to shadow+ but not really sure).

Really appreciate your input. Racing again next week so I gotta get this setup going+trials fast!

u/ABjerre · 1 pointr/SVRiders

I'm sorry to hear that you already dropped your bike, however i still think that congrats are in order! I just bought one as well - had a ride yesterday, and although it was cold as fuck, it was sooooo much fun.

It is a really great bike - again, congratulations on your purchase.

From what i've seen, smaller replacement parts, such as levers, are quite cheap - on eBay you can get them from 15 to 30 dollars depending on wether you want new knockoffs or used OEM. A new OEM will probably cost a bit more though, but on the plus side, it is somehting that you can replace yourself.

EDIT $22.95 on Amazon

u/cheapngood · 2 pointsr/scooters

Air/Fuel gauge $170
http://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS
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12V Impact wrench $25
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-1-2-half-inch-emergency-impact-wrench-92349.html
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Cylinder head temperature gauge, $39
http://www.amazon.com/Trail-Tech-Temperature-Meter-72-ET3/dp/B0031BIWX2
__
Roller weight tuning kit $33 (there are different weight sizes, what scooter?)
http://www.amazon.com/Prima-Roller-Weight-Tuning-16x13/dp/B00LESCZHS
__
Or a set of a range of carb jets. Again, need to know the scooter type.
__
Scooter Dyno $12,000 hahaha
http://www.dynojet.com/products/dynamometers/dynomodelsd12/dynojet-dynamometer-sd12.aspx


I've never used most of these, so I can't review them. They look interesting to me though.

u/meltmyface · 4 pointsr/plastidip

I weighed 235 when I got it in May, and weigh 220 now.

I guess I shouldn't say stock. Forgot I dropped a tooth on the front sprocket the first week I got it and was able to hit 60 with no headwind, but that costs like 9 bucks on Amazon and takes about 15 mins to swap.

All the other stuff I did just made it quicker, like exhaust, ecu, intake, and clutch springs (which barely helped, should have gotten stronger ones) because the clutch sucks.

u/muphy · 6 pointsr/MTB

I mean the real ones are like $13 dollars more, don't buy unnecessary food/coffee/drink/whatever for a week and you've recuperated the cost of wondering. https://amzn.com/B00D3FG6ZW

u/Gravyboyz · 3 pointsr/MTB

I'm still running the stock Raleigh generic narrow wide that came with my bike, but when I finish destroying it I'll be going with a RaceFace.

Under 40 bucks and really well reviewed, I think they look good too.

u/Coolran · 1 pointr/XR650L

I purchased a 600r sprocket from amazon and I had to file a small amount on the backside to get the retaining plate on. This is the one I purchased https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTW5E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DGyozbRTVXWQM

u/Chojiki · 7 pointsr/Ruckus

> Is this necessary?

Not really.

> Are you supposed to replace the springs too?

The spring isn't associated with changing the Variator. It's for the clutch.

The variator is connected to the driveshaft on the engine and the clutch is connected to the final gear which is connected to the rear wheel. The belt goes between these two and is what transfers power between them.

As the variator spins, weights inside it force a plate in or out and this in turn pulls the belt higher or lower on the variator.

The belt in turn pulls the plate on the clutch in or out depending on how high it is riding on the variator.

If the belt is high on the variator it is low on the clutch, and the opposite if the belt is low on the variator it is high on the clutch.

The ratio between the diameter of each part where the belt is riding is basically the gear the Ruckus is in.

How the spring plays into this is: as the variator spins the weights are thrown outwards due to centripetal motion but without some assistance there's no way for them to return to their base setting other than gravity. This is where the clutch spring comes in. The spring provides a constant force pushing the belt on the clutch to it's widest point on it. This in turn pushes the belt on the variator to it's narrowest point there. This helps reset the weights inside the variator.

Just like it's a pain in the ass to try and drive in 3rd gear from a dead stop it'd be much the same without the torque spring. The Ruck would constantly be in a much higher gear than needed.

Heavier Torque Springs reset the gear ratio much quicker than normal but also slow down how quickly the gear changes.

Lighter Torque Springs take longer to reset (relatively) but go through gear shifts much quicker.

On a normal Ruck, the standard spring is good enough for most applications.

For heavier riders who need lighter weights to get better RPM's, a heavier spring will help delay how quickly those weights will variate.

A lighter spring will also give a better take off response because the majority of the power produced will be available much quicker.

All in all, Torque Springs are not something that's necessary for someone who's doing the standard upgrades. They're more for people who have fine tuned their Ruck and want to narrow down their performance even further.

If anything look into getting a set of 16x13 Variator Weights so you can tune your Ruck to your individual weight.

The Polini Variator I believe comes with 2 sets of weights (5.6 g and 6.8 g) Which allows you to tune at 5.6 g, 6.2 g, and 6.8 g. That's not a lot to work with.

The set above will work from 3.5 g all the way to 13.5 g.