Reddit mentions: The best primer paint

Yes, you should. It looks like bare plastic without them.

For future builds, use a hobby knife (x-acto is fine, I assume you're probably American given the reference to comic-con) to scrape off the stubs to the part where they came off the parts tree. I can see several areas where the fit of the kit could've been improved by cleaning those parts up so they sit flush as they are supposed to.

For paint, I'd probably avoid Humbrol Acrylics (if you're in the US, they're not particularly easy to get) and they're' not great as paint. Tamiya is okay, but it's not great for brushpainting which you seem to want to do. If you have to, you can use this tutorial to see how to do it more effectively: https://zerobxu.wordpress.com/2008/03/10/hand-painting-with-tamiya-acrylics/

If you are just getting started, you might not want to buy an airbrush. In that case, there are two alternatives I can recommend:

1. Spray cans: http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/model-master/american-fs-enamel (Model Master Spray Enamels). What you'd be doing is buying the gray or whatever base color of the Snowspeeder, then spraying that (do this outdoors, this stuff is noxious). Similarly, Tamiya makes good spray paint in a can. Long term, this is not an ideal solution. They cost a lot per can and that money is better spent saving up towards an airbrush if you continue building models Detail painting can be brush painted by Tamiya, Model Master, Vallejo, AK, or other branded paints (these are all acrylics.)
   
   
2. Brush painting only:
   If you are only brush painting, see this guide: http://www.finescale.com/how-to/articles/2007/02/basics-of-brush-painting
   
   As for paint, Tamiya is...."okay." It's not great paint to brush and most people don't do very well with it. It's much more suited for airbrushing, but you can do it via the tutorial I referenced above.
   
   An alternative would be to brush paint with Model Master Acrylics, which have very good self leveling properties that make brush strokes a bit less likely (also, for wide areas, use a wide brush, like around 1/4inch or so; if you want brushes, go to an art store like Dick Blick or whatever, and you can find some good ones there for a fairly low price. Look for Golden Talkon (orange/gold bristles) brushes, as they work quite well and are also cheap. They're a synthetic material. But frankly, watercolor and acrylic paint brushes will probably work fine.
   
   If you use Model Master acrylic, be aware, you will need to purchase a can of sprayable primer, because otherwise, that paint will lift off the model as soon as you try to use masking tape to paint straight lines (like those red/gray panels on the snowspeeder.) I recommend a primer like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Surface-Primer-180ml-Spray-Tamiya/dp/B000BMXRUM. Primer helps give your final paint colors more grip on the final surface.
   
   Then, use Model Master Acrylic, which is brushable, can be thinned with water, and has water cleanup. Enamels require special thinners/mineral spirit and smell bad, but some people like them.
   
   Once you're done painting, you can use stickers, or use the waterslide decals that are included. If you use the waterslide decals, apply/spray/brush a coat of gloss over it.
   
   Here's an example of something I brush painted (on a lark, but again, USE PRIMER) with model master acrylic about two years ago to show what results you can get.
   
   A further description of the steps I went through to get that result with Model Master Acrylic is described in the two threads:
   https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/2esizj/fa18e_1144_painted_entirely_with_hairy_sticks/
   
   https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/2yzzms/brush_painted_1144_f18e_old_project_not_complete/
   
   
   
3. Re: tomboy/judgment: You shouldn't have to worry about such things and he's probably just as happy to sell you kits anyway. It's a hobby after all (and let's face it, a damn nerdy one).
   
   Additionally, please read the FAQ along the sidebar regarding basic tools, airbrush reviews, and other tips and tricks. Also, lots of tutorials on how to build models can be found on youtube. In your case, I'd be there's probably at least one or two if you just google "bandai 1/48 snowspeeder step by step" or something similar and it'll teach you more than you ever wanted to necessarily know about how to get better at this.
   
   Congrats on your first build, and best of luck. And yes, pick up more models.

The picture won’t load for me but if it has a shiny finish but it has a nice smooth finish (even if shiny) you can probably do this with no sand paper at all...

-Clean it really good, wipe it down good with TSP Substitute All Purpose Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZRSMDK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XQJGDbPBFTM4J

-Once it’s all dried coat it with one decently thick coat of BIN primer, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00113UKQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6SJGDb0MM32CE

Make sure it’s a real shellac-base, synthetics are no good. Also keep yourself well ventilated, some folks don’t like the smell but it never bothered me

-Paint it, with GOOD paint, silly to say but it matters a lot, my advice is use Benjamin Moore advance, it just will dry and harden the best of what I’ve dealt with, you’ll want to do two coats of paint no matter how good the first coat looks.

-Enjoy and start looking around at other items you can slap some paint on because BIN primer is a gift from the shellac gods

Things I've learned starting out:

Wash the miniatures. I found the easiest way was those little ziploc plastic containers. Warm dishsoapy water in them, throw a few minis in, scrub them with an old toothbrush, rinse them off and toss them into a second ziploc container filled with plain water. Then drain and refill that a few times to get all the soap out. Be careful you don't dump them down a drain.

Take them out of the warm fresh water and put em onto a plate with a paper towel or something to dry. I like to organize them into which model belongs to what at this point.

I invested on a sprue cutter and it has been WONDERFUL for me to remove pesky mold lines and the bigger tags sticking out of models. Also an xacto knife helps.

I got some cheap needle files from Harbor Freight and they've helped get the flash lines flush without any weirdness.

After your stuffs all pretty and moldline free I tend to toss it into a sonic cleaner because I work at a lab. It might be placebo but the industrial strength badass one at work seems to get clean and I mean... why not? But you can do the water and rinse again. Or even just do it once, after the mold line removal. (Side note: sonic cleaners are PRETTY RADICAL for removing paint from miniatures with some simple green. I love it. Saves me a lot of scrubbing.)

Anyway once its dry I personally use this glue and some stuff called green stuff to fill in gaps. Heres a tut showing the basic idea

Once they're assembled I use some good ol elmer's white glue on the bases and dip em in sand and shake them off. Tutorial that shows that

Then prime your stuff. Tons of tutorials about it and tons of everyone saying which is their favorite primer, spray or brush on, different types of primer, different brands. Some stand by Army Painter or Citadel. I've had good results with Rustoleum Ultra Cover 2x White primer. I've recently picked up some TAMIYA WHITE which I hear good things about. Trying them on some Morats tomorrow.

Lots of other good info has been posted too! I also just started probably, shit, 6 months ago, so this is stuff I've had to pick up and learn as I go.

So, I'm planning to fully paint my next kit (HG Barbatos) and I'm wondering what paint product to use. Is this Tamiya TS-27 Matte White the typical white gundam color, like on the barbatos? Does it matter if it's matte or not, or is there a regular white color for the spray paint?

Also, I plan to use this white primer. Is this okay? It says "fine", but the gray tamiya primer doesn't say that so is this different in an important way? I hand paint in acrylics if that information is important.

Also, bonus question, should you use white or gray primer before hand painting/spraying on red? I assume white?

Thank you for the help friends, sorry for yet another barrage of questions, but it is much appreciated!!!

Like everyone here said, the easy and save way would to be to get some vinyl decals. However, if you are dead set on painting, then it's not too hard to do. you're going to have to disassemble the controller. From there sand the controller, this gives the primer something to bite on to. once everything is nice and sanded take your primer (I recommend this.) and spray in light, even coats and let cure for the time on the can, and maybe a few hours longer. Once you're happy with the primer, take your spraypaint and apply in light, thin coats. Remember to let the paint dry fully between coats.
Once you are happy with the color and it has dried for the recommended time on the can, go ahead and choose your choice of clear coat (gloss, semi-gloss, or matte. also krylon works best for this) and apply in thin layers like you did the primer and paint. after it has sat for the directions on the can. you can now put the controller back together and test everything out. Assuming that you didnt mess up putting the controller back together, you now have a painted controller.

https://imgur.com/a/QqzTB9s heres my paint job i did the other day. the line at the side is quite scuffed to split the colours due to slightly dodgy tape use and the mouse buttons are a little weird feeling due to messing up my use of primer (spraying too close) but the rest i'm happy with and it feels not too different to the matte finish the mouse game with. the way i did it was i sanded it down just with some sandpaper i had at home, then used one good layer of primer paint ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001W03PSQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) then painted on a few layers of paint for each of my colours ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003X1DCJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003X1B9UI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and finished it off with this matte clear finish ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006O6D8FS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). i'm sure you don't need these exact paints but they worked well for me and i've still got loads left for doing more mice if i want which is a nice bonus.

1. Blue
   
   
2. Summer
   
   
3. Food
   
   
4. I would give u/kevinsb this rice cooker because he keeps talking about wanting it!
   
   
5. Book I recommend it to everyone who even hints that they want a book recommendation.
   
   
6. $1 on the dot is the best I could do!
   
   
7. Dog
   
   
8. Not useful, but I need it anyway
   
   
9. I love this movie!
   
   
10. If you get, like, hundreds of them, then you can set them all up like a security system.
    
    
11. Goal - Paint the floor!
    
    
12. Add-on
    
    
13. MLP
    
    
14. Ridiculously priced
    
    
15. Fluffy unicorn
    
    
16. Smell
    
    
17. Rose Petal Place
    
    
18. Writer
    
    
19. 80s toys
    
    
20. Best show ever

I started out using just water, and I eventually started using this mixture which is a cheap alternative to GW's lahmian medium:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ad7bNDfS3fI

I made a big batch of that and transfer it into a dropped bottle as needed. 1:1 paint to medium for base coats, 1:3 or 1:4 paint to medium for layering depending on the color. I think in most cases using water is "fine," but when going thinner for layering, I found this mixture helps the paint to still behave more like paint than water when it's super thin.

For me the trick to learning smoother and more vibrant layering has been "if you can see the difference after one layer, your paint was too thick." Once I drilled that into my head and trusted that it'd look better over a few thin coats, I leveled up considerably.

For primer, I just use regular old spray can Rustoleum white, black, or grey (or all 3 for a zenithal highlight) depending on the size and detail level of the model.

I have worked on both plastic and metal minis and found no difference -- a quick spray of primer, and they both behave the same cause you're just painting on the primer anyway.

I'll second "use a hobby primer", though I am much less specific about it than /u/DathNader26. I use Army Painter primer, though I've used Citadel and Privateer before too. The only real rule is that if you use a color besides black or white, you must use a matching color to touch up any exposed areas. Citadel Dawnstone and Army Painter Uniform Grey are different enough that I can notice them if I change greys over a model. If you spray with Dawnstone, that needs to be your only grey paint for that model.

As far as other paints, once again the rule of consistency applies. I started painting with Citadel paints, so I mostly use Citadel so that my army looks consistent.

Since you're starting new, I may recommend Army Painter. I use a couple of their paints. They are as good as Citadel and substantially cheaper. The only Citadel product that I would strongly recommend is their ink washes. They are kind of pricey, but they are great and have awesome effects. It took me years to discover the magic of ink washes, so let me strongly point you in their direction right now.

Gorgeous.


I bought a big piece of walnut last week and plan to make a simple picture frame out of it, was wondering how to finish it. Can you tell me a little more about "tung oil"? Is this what you used?

> http://www.amazon.com/Minwax-47500-Tung-Finish-Pint/dp/B002KHRNLU/

I like the look you got but may want something a little darker and less saturated, just exploring options. Again, kudos, pretty amazing work for a first furniture piece!

My favorite prime is expensive but it is literally the best I've ever used, by miles.

Tamiya gray primer. They make a white and black I think. They are far and away better than anything you can buy at lowes. Comes at a premium price point though. You can pick up a can for like 6 bucks at a hobby lobby with their 40% coupon though.

You'll want to use a primer! Don't worry, it took me forever to figure that out. Basically acrylic paint isn't made to stick on plastic, and it'll come off super easy. Primers are paints made to stick on things like plastic. That means that you're coating your model in a material that accepts your acrylic paint better than plastic. You can get primer from any home improvement store, but here's some links to some on amazon. They all work just fine, you just need to make sure it says "primer" somewhere on the can.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249846-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWOS94/

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3001-Base-Primer/dp/B005WH3LVG/

https://www.amazon.com/Citadel-Colour-Chaos-Primer-Undercoat/dp/B000A5CHHE/

For acrylic you can use water as a thinner, or windex if you really want (some people use it to thin paint for airbrushing). For enamel you need turpenoid or paint thinner. Odorless turpenoid from an art store is good because it's not stinky, but you could use turpentine or whatever.

I'm not sure basic enamel will work as a primer-- is it a fairly matte finish? I like Tamiya's spraycan primer-- it's very fine-grained matte paint and sticks to all kinds of stuff.

Have you bought any paint yet at all? If not, get a spraycan of Tamiya primer, and use all acrylic for everything else. It's easy to clean up and won't give you headaches if you don't have good ventilation, and you'll know nothing's going to eat anything else and you can mix everything with everything else... Thin with water, clean your brushes and stuff with water, keep it simple.

This is the primer:

http://www.amazon.com/Gray-Surface-Primer-180ml-Spray/dp/B000BMXRUM

One can will last for 4 or 5 1/35 tanks.

>EDIT 2: I haven't yet ordered any primer. Any advice on what colour to use (White/Grey/Black?) and what brands would be best?

Army Painter is a common spray primer that a lot of people use.

Another tip that I have is to not forget the model base. You will often see photos were people didn't even bother to fix the random blotches caused when painting the figure, which is distracting and makes the whole model look worse. It's very easy to just paint the base black, but it's also very easy to glue some junk on there and take your model up a level. Even just some dirt/sand, bits of leaves or bark & small rocks. You don't need to buy stuff. Just go outside with a couple baggies. Get some glue put down and stick the stuff on, maybe with some tweezers. The stuff won't stick where you didn't put glue. Here's a good example of basic sand & rock basing which is very achievable by a novice.

If you're not into painting - the first bundle is fine if you're willing to put the money into it, the other bundles are too much for a beginner IMO

Something like:
https://www.amazon.com/Miniatures-Highlighting-Miniature-Army-Painter/dp/B01MTXRU2L/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518146756&sr=8-4&keywords=army+painter+kit

Is a cheaper entry point - look for something in the same category as this, the primary colours + a few extras, a shade and a standard sized paint brush

This way you can try out painting and if you enjoy it, you can add to it from there, while not investing as heavily as the suggested bundles in the link are asking


Another option ~

https://www.amazon.com/Games-Workshop-60-22-Base-Paint/dp/B00KOCXDT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518147023&sr=8-2&keywords=citadel+paint+kit

Any paints from Army painter/Citadel/Vallejo are great places to start, just get whatever's got the best deal on at the time.

Only other suggestion would be to get a spray undercoat such as

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3001-Base-Primer/dp/B005WH3LVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518147186&sr=8-1&keywords=miniature+undercoat+spray

Undercoat sprays make painting a mini MUCH easier and MUCH quicker, however, if you are only painting the bases and not any detail on the mini, you can get away with no undercoat spray
(You can get cheaper sprays but I find when you're new, picking one model paint brand and sticking to it to start with makes things easier to manage)

I've just grabbed links from Amazon, but you can find these products all over the place

AFAIK, most plastics have a coating that protects it, but also prevents paints from adhering well. To get paint to bond to it you'll want to scuff up the surface with a rough material (like a scouring pad from the back of a kitchen sponge. Or fine sandpaper if you're brave).

After roughing it up, wipe it clean, then spray on a plastic primer (it's basically a "spray paint" that's just alcohol and thinned out glue, generally clear or with some white color), and then finally, apply the final paint once that dries.

It would depend on how large an area of painting you’re doing. If you’re doing let’s say a model car body, you’d have to it in coats. So you’ll have to research how to paint brush coats with Tamiya paints since I’m sure you’ll have to thin the paint to some degree. And for priming, Tamiya sells them in spray cans. . As well as other other colors .

You don’t have to buy the sprays on amazon of course. Check with your local hobby stores and see if they’ve got them. I know my local Hobby Lobby carries the primer cans.

Hope this helps, bud. Good luck.

I just bought my first home and the rooms need to be repainted and I'm completely clueless. The previous owners painted a super dark brown in the bedroom, neon orange in the guest room, and blue with cloud and truck stencils in what will be my office. Google tells me I should use a high hide primer maybe like this? Also, would it be worth investing in a paint sprayer since I have 3 maybe 4 decent sized rooms to do? Any other tips worth noting for a first-timer?

Thanks for the help!

Drop some PVA on a base, spread it around with a bush you don't care much about (stiff bristle works best).

I set the mini down inside a sandwich tupperware, pull some "washed dirt" or "driveway magic" as some call it, and cover the base in the stuff entirely, the more the merrier. Wiggle it a bit to fill in gaps, and leave to dry overnight.

After that night, I usually take a stiff bristle brush (or toothbrush, which I prefer), and scrape out any loose rocks and dust from the bases.

After the removal of stuff-that-didn't-stick-well, you're good to prime your miniatures as usual! GW stuff works awesome, but I like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMXRUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gray is easy to work UP from into brights, and DOWN from into darks. If you want to take it a step further and "pre-highlight" your models, prime white on top, grey in mid, and a splash of black around the feet (or any combination, if your color scheme is too light for black around feed, two-tone works well).

TLDR: Answer to your question, Glue -> Sand/Dirty -> Brushie Brushie -> Prime.

I used /u/AgentOrange96's v2 Painting Guide as a base and did a few modifications based on material availability.

Initially I did some light/medium sanding of the rubberised coating over the case so the paint will adhere better, starting with 400gr paper then finishing with 2000gr to finish up. I was a bit worried about not removing the paint completely, but it's cured pretty well without any problems. I then used Rust-oleum White Primer for 3 layers, waiting about 15 minutes between them and coating sparsely. Then did 3 layers of Plasti-kote Matt White leaving about an hour in between. Was touch dry after an hour, did another 3 layers in the same fashion, then left it alone for about 4 days to let the paint cure.

In hindsight, I will probably add a clear coat at some point: although I've been careful to not do anything silly, there is a minor scuff just by the numpad enter key that was caused by something. The matt coat it currently has is pretty tough, but no harm in adding extra protection :)

Spray on primer is pretty ideal, though with those humidity levels idk how the final outcome will be affected. My guess is it'll be fine, just longer drying times.

Of all the primers I've tried, this has been the best.

So for a frame like the PG strike freedom, if I wanted to paint the inner frame so that it isn't crap gold, I'd prime that and then spray it with gold paint? Can I do it with inner frame assembled or would that run the risk of the joints getting too stiff?

And does it matter what color the primer color is, be it gray or white? I assume the tamiya primer is ideal (as linked below):

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Surface-Primer-White-180ml/dp/B0000WS01E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487211789&sr=8-4&keywords=tamiya+primer

And a side question, someone told me acrylic paint is ideal for beginners as its less of a pain to work with. However I assume this is regarding brush painting. I notice stuff like the tamiya gold spray is lacquer. Does it matter? And is it bad if you primer, lacquer gold, and then paint some sort of acrylic on top of the gold?

Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for taking the time to answer!

Most painters have their preferences. I prefer Citadel but it's pricey. I've been using it ever since they were the only ones to offer spray primer and at this point I'm just used to how it reacts and know how to work with it well and IMO it's better quality. Army Painter spray primer is fine too though.

To my surprise, when researching primers on Amazon, I found that the Army Painter primer is only one dollar cheaper than the GW Citadel primer so in that case I would definitely go with Citadel. It has two negative reviews by people who haven't bought it and think it's too expensive even though the AP primer costs basically just as much, but I guess that's the anti-GW circlejerk for you.

It's a high quality primer. It will make the paint stick without peeling for years. If you don't mind the shipping charge (not me), here you go! :)

Edit: Any good latex primer should do you just fine. Don't go cheap though. Hope this helps.

Well there are two big differences between my model and that car print. First exactly like you pointed out he painted the model straight onto raw print so every buildline is who isn't through the paint.
Second is that his model was printed on a desktop FDM printer in PLA material. My mech was printed on an industrial size SLS machine in HD Nylon so difference in resolution is vastly different.

But still, if I would to paint base coat onto that mech without priming and sanding it first you would also see buildlines on it.

You can sand the model without priming it at all yes but it would take you much longer because you would be physically sanding away the buildlines to make it smooth. What happens when you prime it first is that the primer is filling in the buildlines as it dries but also as you sanding it so you only require half the time to bring it to the same smooth finish.

Like I said I am using heavy build primer that is so finally dedicated to smooth models when sanded. Such primers are used on cars to repair body work etc. Primers, as they call them, that you buy in say Games Workshop in reality are just grey or black colored spray paint. There is literally no difference between them and your basic spray paint you can buy in any department store. They just call it 'primer' and charge double for it.

What you need is a heavy high build car primer. This is the one I use: U-POL HIGH/AL High5 Primer, 450 ml, Beige https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003TQD5CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_II6lybPY0KDY0

Trust me it works absolute wonders

Since no one has actually answered your question, I used grey Rust-Oleum primer for my Gloomhaven minis (Amazon link).

Now, I'm not 100% sure if this is the exact same one that I use, but it looks awfully similar. All I know is that it goes on smooth, doesn't obscure tiny details (as long as you don't heavily spray a single area), and dries nicely. I also have a white can of Rust-Oleum primer, but I'm not too impressed with that one. I'm thinking about giving the white Tamiya primer a try. Maybe that'll be better.

I tape the bottom of my figures to a paint stirring stick and then spray the primer on to them in quick, short bursts, spraying about 6 inches away from them and moving in a lateral sweep. Turn and rotate the stirring stick so that you hit all angles on the mini. Once finished, set aside in a dry room for at least 24 hours before you begin painting.

so far i brush, i tend to use different varnish depending on where im using it, gloss on lenses semi gloss on armor flat on dirt ect. I do hope to get an airbrugh before christmas comes though, have a drop pod i need to paint and im just not happy with how brushing the base color is looking, no matter how thin or how many coats i cant get a nice even tone to work from

try this for primer, ive absolutely love using it, goes on super thing but nice and solid, doesnt fill in details

Tamyia makes a good primer in rattlecan and handbrush; while you're there, pick up some ultra thin cement - it's awesome for seam fusing.

Brush on or spray?

Always use spray.
My preference is Tamiya grey fine primer.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BMXRUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_16BBDb3Z3AVA1

I've never had an issue with it. One thin coat will do it. You're just putting in on there to help the paint have something to adhere to smoothly. That's all unless you really care about what color your base cost goes over.
That's why I go with grey personally.

Also dont spray when it's raining or high humidity. It screws with the paint.

You are correct to paint the surfaces. I recommend a product like this.

The humidifiers you have chosen are too small. Get two, one for each side of your home. And get bigger ones. Maybe like this one.

I would also take pictures of the water condensing on the walls. Document everything you are having to do including the money you are having to spend to make your home "livable" and protect the property of the the landlord. Stay in communication with the landlord and ask if you can deduct some or all of these expenses from the rent since you are helping to prevent mold damage to the property. Mold is dangerous and it is nothing to mess around with. I don't know what the laws are where you live, but the landlord should be inclined to help with this problem.

If the problem persists or the landlord is not responsive it might be a good idea to find another place to live when your lease is finished.

We had old brown cabinets and no time to do a renovation. So we took the doors and hardware off, cleaned the hardware and scrubbed the doors. So, much, grease. After that we used “Stix primer”

INSL-X SXA11009A-01 Stix Acrylic Waterborne Bonding Primer, 1 Gallon, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KX8NV7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1xdvDb5YCCY1H

It really made it easy to go right over the cabinets without having to sand everything. We then replaced the handles and it brought complete new life to a very dated kitchen. Paint does amazing things.

I don't have carpets and for some reason, the dogs themselves don't smell. I think its the way they "live" that causes the smell...whatever it is they do. I'm more or less doing this as a favor for a friend so I'm trying to not evict her...

would something like this work:
https://www.amazon.com/Zinsser-00908-B-I-N-Primer-Sealer/dp/B001ARJK94/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467859272&sr=8-1&keywords=odor+primer

If you look up tutorials online, a lot of people do it without sanding! The key is getting a really good primer. The one I see most often recommended for ikea furniture is Zinnsser BIN.

Tamiya fine surface primer is a really thin primer that I'm using for my resin minis, does a good job of not filling in all the fine details.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WS01E/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_Ef6TDbK9HYY3F

Sometimes.

3M also has a solution for that lol

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Patch-Plus-Primer-fl/dp/B00UY39TZ0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=wall+filler&qid=1568684115&sr=8-4

I've been using Army Painter primer since I have their paints as well. It's a few dollars more expensive but I've been pleased with it. It was my first time painting minis and figured I knew it would work with the paint.

https://www.amazon.com/CP3010-Uniform-Gray-Spray-Primer/dp/B005C3CXB4/

You can use a primer like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Mapei-Prim-Grip-Promoting-Primer/dp/B01MXO9KMD

Then tile the base with some nice slate and do some decorative stone facing.

I used [this] (http://smile.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-207016-Marine-Primer-1-Quart/dp/B000C011CO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage) and it worked great

I don't see any significant structural damage. I would make sure the area is as dry as it's going to get, and then cover the entire area with:

Zinsser 00908 B-I-N Primer Sealer – White, 1- Pint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ARJK94/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_FUgKzbDMSE18B.

We recently used it on a home office remodel that we did going from carpet to laminate that had been soaked in cat urine. One coat of that paint and all odor was gone. Good luck!

> Natures miracle then Paint over with kilz to trap odors

Should I just dump something like this in a bucket with a couple gallons of water and spread it around the floor?:

https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Remover-24-Ounce-P-5553/dp/B001LUO1K8/

Or should I use a wet vac with something else?

For the Kilz, does this work?:

https://www.amazon.com/KILZ-Maximum-Blocking-Interior-1-gallon/dp/B007XH9PKO/

Isn't there a risk of this pealing up underneath in the future? We may use wider planks, which would require glue. Not sure how well that would bond with the paint being on top.

This costs $7 with free 2-day shipping. I consider it a mandatory item to have when moving out.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Patch-Plus-Primer-fl/dp/B00UY39TZ0/

https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-47500000-Tung-Finish-pint/dp/B002KHRNLU/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=tung+oil&qid=1564354078&s=hi&sr=1-6

Would this be any good?

Kilz is good, we used Zinsser:

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-276087-Killing-Primer-Quart/dp/B00K7FEQPI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463426777&sr=8-1&keywords=zinsser+mold+killing+primer

I dont have the exact brand, but I used this kind of stuff.
Unfortunatlly, the stuff i used wasnt 100% clear and there is a very light satin (brown) coloring on all my peices now. Not a major deal (you cant tell from the photo), but still.. Make sure you get clear.

I wouldn't recommend the spray on stuff. I tried that at first and it left a rough finish on it that would be bad on playmats. The brush on stuff drys much smoother. And you don't need a thick coat. Just to enough to lightly cover the print to keep it from light scratches (because yes you are right, i printed mine out and the toner is very fragile).

this primer works well for me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YTW8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

here is a finished paintjob
http://imgur.com/gallery/RucQV2x

Use spray primer not paint.

I use this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3001-Base-Primer/dp/B005WH3LVG

It's generally fine.

I'm using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer for Plastic and Metal.

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMXRUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Try spray primers by The Army Painter- they offer a wide range of colours including "uniform grey" which could match your colour scheme.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005C3CXB4/ref=mp_s_a_1_32?qid=1414835784&sr=8-32

Agreed, bleach is a great way to attack mold. Once you have done this, let the wood dry really well before doing anything with it. Alternatively, you could try using some mold killing primer: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-276087-Killing-Primer-Quart/dp/B00K7FEQPI

What can I use to remove tamiya spray primer ?

I'm new to using rattle cans and the pieces I did last night have some pooling.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KHRNLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_3mhODb4XGB5BA

Its actually under an inch (just measured). There really isnt much depth as all. Would one of those 4-in-1 filler/spatula/sanders work with this you think? Since it's not that deep?

Thoughts on this? The Army Painter Color Primer, Matt Black, 400 ml, 13.5 oz - Acrylic Spray Undercoat for Miniature Painting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WH3LVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BGyRDbSSZ88E8

In my house we ripped up carpet in the basement that the previous owners cats peed on and the only thing we found that got rid of the smell was we painted the concrete floor with kilz odor blocker and it worked like magic.
KILZ Restoration Maximum Stain and Odor Blocking Interior Latex Primer/Sealer, White, 1-gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XH9PKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-.EADb070PHDM

Also in a basement I'd recommend luxury vinyl plank instead of laminate because of it being waterproof and you won't ever have to worry about any smells from moisture.

that green things ar the same thing that u hold in ur hand in the last picture a screw plug just severely damaged and deteriorated. remove them with a pair of pliers and fill those holes with https://www.amazon.com/3M-Patch-Plus-Primer-fl/dp/B00UY39TZ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506342376&sr=8-1&keywords=hole+filler then drill the holes where u want for the new rod.

If u cant remove easily the screw plugs, use the drill on them to help them soften.

So I'm looking into my first project that's more than a straight build. Specifically I'm thinking of a recolor of a Kyrios from orange to green (college/workplace colors, and fortunately white is our secondary).

The right order is Primer, paint, panel line, topcoat right? And then just topcoat for the pieces I don't recolor?

Also on topcoating, do you spray that on each external piece individually, or on the whole unit assembled?

Lastly, if I get into weathering effects, that's after painting and before topcoat right?

My batch of cheap Leos finally came in, so I have a few grunt units to mess with.

> Park it in the sun and leave a window or two cracked.

Its December/January in Minnesota, what sun? And the camper has been skirted thus it can't move.

>but I doubt you let the water boil for very long before you use it.

Its under 3 minutes and its ready to go. Since this week's weather isn't -8 when I wake up to make breakfast I have been opening the door and let my boot keep it open for a few minutes after the tea water is set up.

It also helps to open the door when I burn a pop tart that I shouldn't be eating.

Tonight I have to set up the crockpot to make steel cut oats overnight. It back down to -temps and single digits for a couple days then into the 20s again this weekend. I keep my eye on forecasts to plan what I will do in the camper to minimize the moisture levels.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00113UKQY/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_7_w
2896 B-I-N Shellac Base Primer & Sealer Stain Killer 00904 (1 Quart)
Or the Zinsser primer that is also a sealer and a stain killer. I used this first then painted the walls in an attempt to keep mold from taking hold inside the camper, inside the walls I am trying to figure out.

The more I read on windows and their R-value the more it seems unless they are uber expensive I will just have to deal with heat loss through windows. And plan to make other parts of the shell of the THOW air tight with a greater R-value.

I do feel fortunate that I have a camper that has aluminum siding, real wood studs and wood paneling. Not the fiberglass & vinyl shit on the newer campers and yes they have mold inside on the walls next to doors and windows....

Paint the concrete with a mold killing additive, then use your tile:

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-276087-Killing-Primer-Quart/dp/B00K7FEQPI

If the odour is trapped in the walls I know that certain paints have been developed to "lock" the nicotine and smoke smell away.

I know my parents have bought this stuff after my grandmother died and they had to renovate her apartment so it could be sold/leased.

I did find some links. A professional painter explains what he does to salvage rooms that have been heavily smoked in.

https://www.duluxtradepaintexpert.co.uk/editorial/nicotine-nightmare

He talks about a primer that blocks the nicotine. I found something that sounds right on amazon for reference: https://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Blocking-Interior-Primer-1-gallon/dp/B007XH9PKO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503859515&sr=8-2&keywords=Primer+Sealer+Nicotine