Reddit mentions: The best professional video accessories

No problem dude.

So first off I just want to go against your thought on only using an iPhone until you can get a professional camera. I really do think that you need the DSLR step in between the iPhone and the professional camera for many factors. Even though the app that you are using is very impressive, it still cannot match a DSLR. You even said it yourself, the camera sensor is way too small to use in anything but exceptional light. Secondly being able to tell the story not just the angle you have the camera, but in the lens choice is something that is awesome to do. With a single change in a lens you can make someone who is in an ally look like they are claustrophobic and trapped, to someone being alone in a large amount of space. So using lenses are a huge help in telling the story you want and being able to know that before using a professional camera is huge. I also want to point out one of the big and main differences why someone would want a professional cinematic camera. One of the main reasons is to have the capability to shoot in RAW which allows for awesome post production. I've used RAW many times before and it is awesome to adjust almost every aspect of the shot. Here is the thing though, you almost really don't need that unless you are really going to push the camera in post, or if you are doing a movie. Even without RAW a DSLR or mirrorless camera can achieve professional looking video without breaking the bank. Here a great video on professionals comparing 8bit vs 10bit which is essentially the difference between cinema cameras and mirrorless ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AekKwgvS5K0 ). This is a very interesting video and really shows how good mirrorless cameras are, and the small gap between the two. I know it's fun to say that you filmed a whole film on an iPhone. I've also used an iPhone and android phones to film really good looking video, but I knew what it can and can't do because I had used dslr and professional cameras. Without the knowledge I had there would've been wild problems that I couldn't fix in post, and even with all of my knowledge I had to change how I did things to get everything right. It was a great experience, but there is a time and place for everything.

Okay not that is out of the way I'll tackle the audio questions you had. So when I said that you can eliminate background noise while recording it wasn't necessarily in a software, rather in what you are doing while filming. The number one thing that you need to do is get the mic as close to the actor as possible. By doing this it eliminates most factors so you can have more flexibility in post. Secondly it is a good idea to have someone dedicated to being the audio engineer. Having to do both is exhausting and results in lukewarm audio and video. Third you need to get an app or some external device that allows for adjusting the gain. There should be multiple apps that can do this, however I would recommend a pre-amp. Here is a link to a great pre-amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LBS52YI/ref=psdc_11974581_t3_B007534LFK . It is a great deal for what it is, but it is still pretty pricey if you don't have much money or much income at all. This is a great tool because it will allow for any audio recorder, phone, or camera to accept xlr, quater inch, and normal aux connections and even providing two. You can also adjust the volume it is putting out so you can more easily adjust on the fly. Getting the right levels is essential for getting good audio in post. The next thing you can do is have some portable sound proofing. There are audio blankets that do a great job, but they are $60 for one. Not to say it isn't worth it, but it's a bit much if it's between getting that and a new mic. So instead I recommend getting a moving blanket. It isn't perfect, but you can get a huge amount of them for cheap and they do almost as good as the audio blanket. The way can use this is to cover up whatever is making the noise if you can. If you can't you can make a wall out of the blankets with light stands, or pretty much whatever you can attach them to. This will not only reduce echos from the actor, but it will also greatly reduce the amount of ambient noise that the mic is picking up. Seriously pick up some moving blankets, they are a great tool not just for audio, but you can use them to block out light, and actually move stuff. They are a really awesome tool. So by doing all of this it should reduce the amount of ambient noise that the mic picks up. Also for good shotgun mics, I am not a great resource for this but I do know a few good mics. Here are two that I know are good and that others say good things about. https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Advanced-Broadcast-Microphone-accessories/dp/B00N39J0LU/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503160247&sr=1-4&keywords=shotgun+mic https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503160247&sr=1-5&keywords=shotgun+mic . If you want to know more there are a large amount of articles on good mics for cheap.

Next I just want to quickly mention that you should invest in some lights. No matter what it is a good idea to have them. Here is a link to a great budget light, https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503160499&sr=8-1&keywords=neewer+light . It isn't the most exiting thing to buy, but it is well worth your money.

For the acting questions, it is hard to put to words what I experience. It's more of an instinct, and is different in every situation . However I know I would not be happy with that answer, so here is a link to an article that I think has some really good points. http://www.masteringfilm.com/tips-for-directing-actors/ . This isn't the guide lines for what you can do, but this is just a starting point for what you can do to direct actors better. There are many articles out there so pick and choose what you want. My only piece of advice that I could find words for is this, make your actors not act. You want them to be the character. So a good way to get this to happen is to have them write a back story for the character, it won't be incorporated in the film, but it will help them shape their decisions on how they act. It is really a great way to have the actor connect with the character. Also just tell the actor what they are doing. Don't be a dick about it, but let them know so they can change it. Don't be vague by saying "do that but happier" because no one really gets that. Instead say something like "Jim while you are saying that line could you have a bit of a smile and have a bit more hop in your step" something like that. That might've not been the best example, but you hopefully get the idea.

Okay I hope that answered all of your questions. Let me know if you have more.

Okay this is going to be a long post, so here goes.

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If you really want to get into sound design, youre going to need a few essentials. A DAW (Digital Audio Workstation), an audio interface, a handheld recorder, and a microphone.




DAWs

As far as a DAW goes, there's a few alternatives you can go with. I personally use Avid Pro Tools for near everything I do, but also mess around with Reaper. I've found that most studios will use one of these two. Most DAWs will have a pretty steep learning curve, so be ready for that.

Pro Tools First is the free version of Pro Tools. It has a lot of limitations, but for starting out it should be fine. If you want less limitations it costs big money, but I'm sure you can find a crack or two as long as you don't use it commercially.

Reaper is starting to grow on me lately. You can customize it to your needs, and the full version is only $60. You can also just deal with a popup everytime you open the program for ten seconds and use it for free. I mainly prefer Pro Tools over this because the video engine in Pro Tools is much better. But for batch editing multiple sound files, Reaper is muuuuuch better.

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Audio Interface

This basically takes over as an intermediary between high quality audio and your computer. You can plug a microphone right into it to record sound straight to your computer. You can do this with a USB microphone as well, but the quality is a million times better with one of these.
I would recommend either the Behringer UMC22 or the more advanced Focusrite Scarlett Solo. Both will do the trick, I just prefer the mic pres on the Focusrite a bit more.


Handheld Recorder
Handheld recorders allow you to record anything you want to without having to deal with any cables. They should be compact but durable.

The Tascam DR-40 is a great intro recorder. It was the first recorder I got 5 years ago, and it still holds up. I've dropped this thing so many times and it still powers through.
Another favorite is the Zoom H4N. This was a favorite among most of my classmates as it was the one my school supplied, but I didn't feel like going through the checkout process all the time so I saved up and got the Tascam. It has a newer version, the Zoom H6, which is pretty slick, but comes at a higher price point. It also comes with some interchangeable microphone capsules so you can get different types of recordings. I'll cover more of this later.
I'll leave off with the recorder I have now, the Sony PCM-M10. This thing is a godsend. It's discontinued due to a newer version coming out, but you can find this guy on eBay for around $300-400. It's smaller than a phone, and the sound quality is amazing. If you have the money to shell out for this guy, definitely go for it. Every sound designer inn the industry I know swears by it.


Microphone

So the first thing you need to know is that there's a load of different microphone types. Its a lot to cover, so I'm just going to link you to this article that will cover the basics of what you need to know. Basically I would recommend different microphones for different things, all depending on what you're trying to capture.
A good all-around microphone is the Shure SM57/Shure SM58. They're essentially both the same microphone. But these things will LAST. Like,people have run over them with trucks and they sound fine. Definitely a good starting point

For vocal recordings, I would recommend the Rode NT1A. This mic is a great starting point for capturing voice, and is durable to boot.

For capturing foley/field recording, I would go with the Rode NTG2. Its a shotgun mic with great quality for the price, and never let me down in all the years Ive been using it. I won its successor, the NTG3, in the Riot Creative Contest a few years back, but still use the NTG2 from time to time when I need to.


Some Extra Stuff


Theres a lot of cool, free plugins out there. I've used both Blue Cat's and Melda's plugins, and they all get the job done with a bit of tweaking.

As far as building up a sound library goes, I would recommend recording literally everything you can around you and playing with those sounds with plugins as a good starting point for building up a library. There's a few resources out there that give out free SFX every once in a while, GDC has had a bundle go up for 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019. You can also check out the BBC Sound Effects Library. Be careful about getting libraries and bundles though, as they add up quick. I have to go through my sound library soon, and I probably have around 500,00+ files but only really need a few thousand.

For all your sounds, you're going to want a file manager. A great and free one is Mutant. You just add the directory where you downloaded your sounds to, let it load them in, and voila. You can search easily for what you need.


Hopefully, all this was somewhat helpful to you, or to anyone else reading this who's interested in sound design!

Hi, I'm the co-editor for podcast production and I think I may be able to help with your questions.

Mics: Depending on your current recording space you have 2 options, Condenser or Dynamic Microphones. Condenser mics are very good at picking up detailed sound but they are most of the time to sensitive to be used without some sort of sound proofing or acoustic treatment to the room as they are really good at picking up even the quietest of sounds. but if you have a treated room or a acoustic shield then that might be an option to look into. Dynamic mics however are really good at capturing loud sounds and because of that, they are mostly used for singing and instruments. however they are also often used for narration because you don't have to go all out with the sound proofing as they are less sensitive. now since my talents are in post production, I don't need an expensive microphone to get a good sounding recording, so I just use a $20 Dynamic microphone from amazon, they're great in fact I bought 4 of them for a podcast I was doing, I can give samples if you would like. As for price, Condenser are on average going to cost more because of everything that goes into it. Dynamic mics are older tech, so they aren't as expensive. my friend who does the vocal recordings has the Rode NT1a, a rather expensive condenser microphone $229, and I record using the Behringer Xm8500 Dynamic mic $20 on amazon. so it's really up to your budget and editing know how.

Rode NT1a

Xm8500

You will also need a audio interface if you're going to be using XLR mics, which I highly recommend you do. Here's the one I use, although you may not need that many channels

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Software: I use Adobe Audition around $20 a month subscription. However I have in the past used Audacity and if you know how to use it, you can get some really good results. If you are looking to get into industry standard software I would recommend Pro Tools also I think $20 a month.

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Yes, people who don't use a studio generally record to their preferred Audio editor and mix/edit then upload to a hosting website for their podcast, the production I work for uses Blogtalk which I think has a free option. However there are many options for hosting websites (E.g. Acast, Podbean, Libsyn, Ect.) I recommend reading this website for hosting options.

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People typically find voice actors through Casting Calls which they themselves set up or by going through a casting call website, and yes voice actors are typically paid although some may offer volunteer if they're just getting out there or for charity. For the sake of professionalism always assume you are paying for their services, that way if they decline payment then that's their choice as an actor.

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If your podcast gains enough listeners then yes, you can definaty make money through podcasting, but you should never go only for making money. because one, it takes a while ti gain listeners and two it's just no fun if your only in it for the money.

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I remember being exactly where you are now asking these questions, so If you need any help don't hesitate to ask. I hope this helps :)

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TL,DR

Mics: I use a $20 Dynamic mic which gives me great recordings, although there are more expensive and higher quality options out there.

Software: I use Adobe Audition to edit everything but there are a myriad of other audio editing options out there including the free software Audacity.

Yes it can be as simple as Record/Edit/Post depending on what your doing and the type of podcast your going for.

You find actors through casting calls, and typically you always pay actors for their services. Always expect to pay.

Yes you can make money through podcasting depending on your listenership and Ads and things like that.

Spend BIG on your tripod, lighting and audio if you're looking at narrative work. ESPECIALLY tripod. I have the Sachtler Ace M and it's excellent, especially for a lighter setup. IMO avoid manfrotto "fluid" heads. Most of them within your price range are not fluid. Their legs are excellent though! Also look at a used Miller or Sachtler kit. For narrative work, chances are that 80-90% of your shots are going to be locked down, tripod shots or pan/tilt shots. The G7 is NOT a camera that you want to be using for the "handheld" look. (I also have a horrible bias against unnecessary camera movement, especially handheld or shoulder rig shots in narrative work). As a rule, NEVER take your camera off the tripod unless you have very good reason to do so.


I put a good $300 into my G7 kit so it's hard to say what $1500 will get you, but you should be able to get a good start, especially since you already have some lenses.

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AUDIO - Audio is arguably more important than video quality for low budget work. Audiences will forgive slightly out of focus/unsteady and grainy footage, but poor audio will IMMEDIATELY make your work seem amateurish,The boom mic is king for narrative audio, and truth be told, mic placement is often far more important than the hardware. I'd take a boom op who knows how to mic, with a $400 setup, over a guy with $$$$ of equipment who doesnt know how to mic talent. A solid entry audio kit can be put together for under $450. Pick up a decent shotgun (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/495302-REG/Audio_Technica_AT875R_AT875_Short_Condenser_Shotgun.html) and a recorder. A boom pole and shock mount are necessary. If you're on a real tight budget, a painter's pole with a shockmount can be used. Shop monoprice for any audio cables. I recommend the following on a budget: Mic Kit ($200) https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/563843-REG/Audio_Technica_AT875_Short_Condenser_Shotgun.html, Tascam Recorder ($150) https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/821259-REG/Tascam_DR_40_DR_40_4_Track_Handheld_Digital.html, Used Sony MDR-V6 ($40) https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00001WRSJ/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all, Painter's pole ($20-30)

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LIGHTING - LED panels are cheap, portable, and convenient. The Yongnuo YN-300III is excellent for the money. Pick up two of those and a reflector (as well as a couple $30 light stands), and as long as you have some daylight or even practicals, you have a very decent light setup as long as you're not trying to light an entire room or scene super bright. Very portable as well. Eventually you'll want to save up for heavier stuff like maybe Arri Fresnels or Kino Flos. LEDs are pretty viable these days also...you can pick up 2-3 nice Aputure panels for under $500. If you're very cheap and need more light, shop lights can be useful if you dont care about modifying the light. Clamp lights or Halogen work lights can help.

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LENSES... there's a couple routes you can go. You've already got a decent start. The vintage lenses are great but you wont be able to get fast, wide legacy glass for the G7. Wide focal lengths are VERY important for narrative work, as they're used almost any time the camera moves and for wide/establishing shots. Your canon 17mm will be roughly 40mm at the widest without a speedbooster, which IMO isn't wide enough for narrative. As far as i'm concerned a Metabones Speedbooster is required kit if you want to shoot with Panasonic mirrorless, IF you're planning to stick to one system. For example, i have a Nikon one, and thus i can use my Sigma 18-35 as well as my old manual Nikon glass. If you only have one Canon i don't know if the price tag is worth it quite yet. Maybe just get a couple of dumb adapters for around $20 for the time being. You can also pick up something like a Rokinon 12mm f2.0 for around $300, which will be around a 27mm on the sensor of the G7 at 4k.

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SUPPORT - Dont worry about cage, rail system, mattebox, follow focus, dolly for now. Dont worry about external recorder or monitor. That is stuff that you should invest in and spend big to get good stuff. If you can fashion a DIY dolly., by all means do that. If you want to be taken seriously, a great tripod is number one priority. How can you expect to shoot great video if your gear isn't even capable of smooth pans and tilts? A $3000 camera body is essentially useless on a cheap tripod. A $500 G7 on an $800 tripod will result in much better movement than an a7sii on a cheap one. And no, a $200-300 tripod will NOT get you smooth movement. Keep in mind that a dolly is pretty useless without proper lights and a fast wide lens. Any dolly movement (especially a push) typically involves a wide lens and you need to throw plenty of light at the scene to ensure you can stop down enough to keep the subject in focus while you're pushing into them. And for $23, there's no reason why you shouldnt pick up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Shoulder-Support-Camcorder-Camera/dp/B0036NMQ7S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479589459&sr=8-1&keywords=shoulder+rig+cowboy

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BAGS: The Canon "Gadget" bags are excellent. I have the Canon 200DG https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/351537-REG/Canon_9320A003_200DG_Deluxe_Gadget_Bag.html. Picked it up in B&H used section for like $23. It should hold your camera, all your lenses and have room for additional things. Ebay is also a good place for bags.

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I would look at a glidecam type stabilizer or slider as a first upgrade past your initial purchases. You can get very decent ones for around the $200 mark. I've heard very decent things about the "off-brand" glidecams. Or find a used one. A slider can do more than you'd think. Especially for narrative work, usually all you need is just a tiny bit of smooth camera movement, which a decent sized slider can allow. Truth be told, you can spend YEARS studying cinematography just using well composed tripod shots with proper lighting, blocking, and staging. There's really no reason to be moving to camera movements until you have shot quite a bit on sticks.

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Here is what i would suggest for a little over $1.5k:

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Tripod - $800


Audio - $400


Lighting - $200 (two cheap panels, two stands, and reflector)


Remaining ~$200: Bag, Batteries, SD cards, slate, cables

As far as specs go, the only difference is in price and in variable aperture. Variable aperture is something I work with on a daily basis but would be a great thing to not have to deal with. IMO, just an annoyance. Light will likely not come into play because you already can just switch to your 55 f/1.8 for low-light. Other than that, I think it comes down to focal length. Do you want to have the 18-30 range or will you not miss it because you already usually shoot at 55?

I would not consider it "easy" to get good slider shots but also not hard. It largely depends on your slider and experience with the slider. Gentle hand + smooth slider = great shots. I think that it would be better to invest in good lenses, a good tripod, good mics, and good lights before getting a slider as you can make an equally good video without a slider.

Yes, here are some cheaper options. However, I should note that the mic I recommended has a "+20dB" setting that can allow you to turn down the pre-amps in your camera or recorder and get better, cleaner audio. Most other mics do not have the feature. The mic I recommended has a bunch of younger brothers. The rode videomic that I have. Great mic, no boost setting, a bit bigger than I would like. The rode videomic go, no battery required mic, pretty cheap. Some people say it is no better than just for scratch audio and barely better than on-board mics, I can't speak to the claims. I'm not trying to scare you away from it, just letting you know what is out there. The rode videomic micro, a super small mic, more intended for small cameras or smartphones, I don't know how good the audio quality is. Outside of the Rode brand family, there is also the Shure LensHopper that is often said to rival the videomic pro. It comes in two different versions, one with a built-in audio recorder, and one without.

Let me know what else I can help with!

/u/Okaaran - with a $100 to $120 budget, you won't be able to find a better video camera than your iPhone 8 - but you can improve your phone's image quality. You can start by downloading FiLMiC Pro for [$9.99 from iTunes] (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/filmic-pro/id436577167?mt=8&at=1000l8mT).

This app will allow you to control aspect ratio, white balance, exposure, resolution and frame rates - turning your phone into a pretty good approximation of a camcorder.

FiLMiC Pro was used for this recent feature film shot entirely on iPhones:

• [Unsane Trailer by Stephen Soderburgh] (https://youtu.be/u7KZrt_cHH0) (full movie [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Unsane-Claire-Foy/dp/B07BNSQ75X//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20))
  
  And this one, shot with FiLMiC Pro and [inexpensive anamorphic "widescreen" lenses] (http://www.moondoglabs.com/store/#!/Anamorphic-Lenses-&-Accessories/c/8525657/offset=0&sort=normal) plus a [Steadicam Smoothee] (https://www.amazon.com/Steadicam-Smoothee-Universal-Smartphone-Adapter/dp/B017EVRPW8//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) counterbalanced stabilizer:
  
  
• [Tangerine - Red Band Trailer] (https://youtu.be/ALSwWTb88ZU) (NSFW - full movie [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Tangerine-Alla-Tumanian/dp/B017I241HK//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20))
  
  This one used FiLMiC Pro, iPhones and a jib:
  
  
• ["ALL UP TO YOU!" - iPhone 5 Movie] (https://vimeo.com/50438974)
  
  Instead of a counterbalanced stabilizer like the Smoothee, you might want to invest in a [$99 Zhiyun Smooth Q powered 3 axis gimbal] (https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Q-Handheld-Smartphone-Counterweight-Standard/dp/B06XK971X2//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).
  
  Powered gimbals are easier to use than counterbalanced stabilizers and can give you very smooth results.
  
  Here are a couple of 4K examples shot with the iPhone 8 and Zhiyun gimbals:
  
  
• [Good Morning Gratitude — Shot on iPhone 8 (4K Cinematic) by Atilla Taskiran] (https://youtu.be/PCQ115-BSvw) (2160p)
  
  
• [iPhone 8 Plus - 4K Cinematic Test Footage (Verona, Italy) by Nikola Krstic] (https://youtu.be/TQ8ndUJNSuM) (2160p)
  
  Without a stabilizer or gimbal, handheld cellphone video can be very hard to watch.
  
  You should also invest in a directional mic or a lavalier for better sound than you can get from the built-in mic. Ideally, you would want a dedicated mic on a boom, but I am assuming you don't have a boom operator.
  
  Directional Mic
  
  The least expensive option is the [$59 Rode VideoMic Me] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018KIJGU8//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20). It is the best directional mic you can buy for your phone.
  
  Here is the Rode promo video with example audio: https://youtu.be/1-x8MVngwaI
  
  Lavalier
  
  For interviews or dialogue between 2 actors, you can get a [Movo dual lavalier with headphone monitoring for $39.95] (http://www.amazon.com/Movo-Executive-Microphone-Monitoring-Smartphones/dp/B019HQHXN4//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20). You can either plug it into the phone you're using for video - or you can download an app to a second phone (e.g. [Rode REC] (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/r%C3%B8de-rec/id528642521?mt=8&at=1000l8mT) for iOS), record a "scratch" audio track with your camera phone's internal microphone and sync the audio from the second phone to your camera's audio track in the edit, as seen here (example is for the Rode SmartLav, but it makes the point for the entire lav/phone category):
  
  http://youtu.be/P2RIFZOGMZo
  
  With the right software and support gear, your phone can give you great 4K video quality.
  
  Hope this is helpful, and good luck with your YouTube videos!

Well, If filmmaking and video is your goal with these cameras I wouldn't recommend either.

If you're just starting and serious about video production here's a pretty effective starter kit that's just a tad over your $400 budget.

[Camera: Canon Vixia HF R400] (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-VIXIA-R400-Advanced-Camcorder/dp/B00AWZFJ22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395594961&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+vixia+hf+r400)
This is a decent starter camera. It's got a decent range of focal lengths, optical stabilization, microphone input, progressive frame-rates and most of all designed with video in mind. You'll need a SD Card

I noticed the cameras you picked resembles DSLRs but keep in mind that these in particular are not and with fixed lenses which defeats the purpose of having DSLR for video. Trust me, learn how to be effective with a camcorder first! Then, when your skill requires more artistic control you can upgrade.

Audio:
[Microphone:] (http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595673&sr=8-1&keywords=shotgun+microphone)
Having clean audio is probably the most important part filmmaking! The key is to get the mic as close to your subject as possible and away from your camera. You'll need a cable. If you need to mount it to your camera use this [bracket.] (http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Photography-Bracket-Standard-Mounts/dp/B005Z4ROIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595189&sr=8-1&keywords=flash+bracket) This bracket will also help keep the camera stabilized when you go handheld.

Keep in mind this won't deliver perfect audio but it will be a MASSIVE improvement to the on board microphone and learning how to record with decent audio in mind is your first step into becoming a pro.

[Lighting:] (http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-300-Clamp-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B007RKKEHA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595354&sr=8-17&keywords=can+lights)
Lighting is EXTREMELY important. A couple of these can lights will not only help with your image quality but put in you in the right direction for learning how to properly light your scene. You could start with daylight equivalent CFL bulbs.

[Tripod:] (http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-60-Inch-Lightweight-Tripod-Bag/dp/B005KP473Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595413&sr=8-3&keywords=tripod)
You NEED a tripod. This one is cheap and cheerful. Looping the ends of a couple rubber brands around the pan handle and the other end around your finger will help deliver some smoother pans!

Total: $425/£258

Some things to keep in mind:

• These are far from pro tools but if all used in conjuncture you can deliver a much more effective production than just merely using a camera on a tripod.
  
  
• Build a crew of friends. Although you can "one man band" it I don't recommend it because one of coolest things about film is that it's almost always a group effort towards an artistic goal!
  
  
• Most importantly, the equipment are just tools. They don't tell the story; you do! Your film/video is only as powerful as the story you want to tell!
  
  Best of luck to you!
  
  edit: formatting
  

I bought and EOS-M after the price crash back when it was new and Canon realised it wasn't selling and I love it - probably the most affordable way to get an APS-C sensor and just enough video features to have some sort of use professionally.

However, that was years ago, and competition has stepped up since then. I'd certainly be looking more at the G6 than the EOS-M now. G6 has:

• an articulating screen
  
• digital view finder (vital for shooting outdoors)
  
• far better ergonomics (the EOS-M's touchscreen is pretty bad)
  
• compatability with a huge variety of affordable MFT lenses...
  
• ... and lots of affordable adapters so you can put pretty much any lens on the planet on it
  
• Better autofocus for stills and video
  
• 1080p60 recording
  
• A higher bitrate than any Canon consumer-level DSLR
  
• Features like focus peaking that you need ML for on a Canon
  
• Less moire
  
• Slightly better audio - still no headphone jack, but better preamps.
  
  It's just a more all-inclusive package for video and you get a lot of camera for your money.
  
  The EOS-M does have a few advantages though.
  
  
• The APS-C sensor gives it better compatability with lenses designed for that sensor size, and it's far cheaper to adapt EF and EF-S lenses to the camera - which is good as the EF-M lens selection is pretty limited and third parties are pretty much ignoring it - plus better low light performance as a result.
  
• Still plenty of adapters available, though they tend to be more expensive than their MFT equivalent.
  
• Canon's colour science is far better in my opinion than Panasonic or Sony's so you'll get a better image out of the camera without having to adjust too much (which is good as the bitrate is so low you couldn't if you wanted to).
  
• Magic lantern is helpful, and you'll get ML Raw - but ML Raw's workflow is pretty damn complicated, especially with the EOS-M where you've got the added step of interpolating out the focusing pixels. ML is still a bit buggy on the EOS-M too.
  
• Magic Lantern crop mode gives you a digital focal extender which is nice, and does give you the ability to adapt some really unusual lenses to it without vignetting like B4 broadcast, or C-mount 16mm/8mm lenses. Plus there's no moire in that mode!
  
• It's smaller! With the 22m f/2 on, it's probably the only pocketable APS-C that's worth a damn for video work.
  
• If I were buying a camera to take stills as well as video, I'd take a Canon over a Sony or Panasonic any day of the week.
  
  So yeah, I'd probably give the G6 a second look if I were buying today unless there were specific reasons that an EOS-M would be more useful to you.
  
  Either way you go, a mirrorless camera isn't a complete video kit. At the very least to make a professional bit of kit out of it, you'll need a Shoulder Support, some way to record audio, a reasonably selection of lenses, and plenty of media.
  

I'm no expert when it comes to DSLR's, but as someone who started with a 700D then moved up to a 70D after three years learning the basics, go for the 70D first. The auto-focus is phenomenally better, higher megapixel count and wifi connectivity. In terms of quality they're all pretty much the same and a beginner such as yourself wouldn't really be able to notice many of the main differences, but if you're going to throw some cash at a starting line I'd make sure you're in the perfect place rather than wanting to upgrade later down the road. :)

Another pointer from my experience would be to get a variety of glass, best quality you can afford. It doesn't really matter which camera you go with when you're starting out if you have some decent lenses to mix up your shots. Get yourself a wide angle, a prime and a zoom; 10-18mm, 50mm/35mm & 75-300mm. That's your starter kit, then upgrade to better quality lenses and cameras as you go - worth noting that the ones I linked are all the lowest quality (except the 35mm) considering you're probably on a tight budget, but you'll still get some sweet footage. It simply means you'll be able to get a wider variety of shots and you'll be prepared for most occasions - the beautiful city skyline scene, the crispy portrait with a bokehed out background, and the "Oh! There's a deer 50ft away! Let's capture it on video rather than running up to it and being kicked in the balls!".

One other thing that might be worth mentioning is that I always carry a point-and-shoot with me. My choice is the Sony RX100 IV - shoots in 4k, incredible slow motion (up to 1000fps), slog2 recording (higher dynamic range to make your scenes look incredible after colour grading), no hassle with interchangeable lenses and in my opinion is generally more convenient than lugging a DSLR around with you when you're on holiday somewhere.

Throw me a message if you have any questions, or just leave a reply and I'll check it when I can. Here're a few video samples for you to compare your possibilities: Canon 70D Auto-Focus, Sony RX100 IV Sample.


EDIT: Fixed up some grammar & wanted to throw you a few accessories incase you hadn't thought that far ahead:
• Gorillapod: Your trusty ol' wrap-around-a-tree tripod. Way more versatile than your traditional kit and easier to travel with.
• Røde Shotgun Microphone: The best quality microphone you're going to be able to find for the price. Canon's default mic sucks balls, so grab one of those if you run with the DSLR.
• Class 10, 64GB SD Card: If you decide to grab the Sony RX100 IV, you'll want one of these to shoot in 4K otherwise your camera will just give up after a few seconds. If you run with the Canon, grab this anyway for faster transfer speeds, but it's really not necessary.

For most podcasters, video is only a worthwhile choice when the content communicates better in video. Comedy and tutorials are often like this.

But since this is for an education project, you don't need to worry much about how much sense the decision makes. :)

Here are the most important things for video, in order of priority.

1. Audio quality—microphone(s) and recorder
   
2. Lighting
   
3. Camera quality
   
   Microphones for video are usually more expensive, but they don't have to be. Your two main choices are wearable mics and shotgun mics.
   
   Shotgun mics are expensive and cumbersome, but they keep the mics completely out of the shot.
   
   Wearable mics, like a lavalier, can be hidden. But they're sound best if you don't try to hide them. My advice is to only hide the mic when you want something to seem real, like something dramatized. Otherwise, a discreetly visible lav mic isn't distracting.
   
   On the low end, I recommend the JK MicJ 044 mic. They're small, only $29, and get surprisingly good sound for their price. It'll easily connect to any audio recorder (like the Zoom H1). Or, you can get a TRRS mic/headphone splitter and connect a lav to a smartphone and record with an app (for iOS, I like Røde Rec). For something simpler but a little more expensive, the Røde SmartLav+ sounds great and connects directly to a smartphone.
   
   For lighting, be near a window on a sunny day. Get diffused sunlight (not direct) on your face to brightly light you. Otherwise, consider a cheap three-point lighting kit.
   
   Finally, your camera could be a DSLR, smartphone, or even an HD webcam. The camera actually matters least for your overall quality. Great lighting can make even a cheap camera look good.

What you are looking for is a lavalier mic (also called a lapel mic). They come in several different varieties. Do you want one that is wireless or one that is wired? The wireless ones are nice if you are moving around a lot or doing commentary away from your desk. The wired ones are nice because they don't require a battery pack and you never lose signal (not really an issue anymore). Tehre are also some that are made to plug into your cell phone so that you can record onto your phone.

For the best quality of wired lavs I would go with an XLR setup. You will have to spring for a mixing board or an audio interface, but you will get better sound quality and the ability to adjust your sound on the hardware. I suggest the Audio Technica Pro70 or the Shure SM93. You will also need to add a board to that as well.

If you go wireless you'll probably be paying much more than $200 for a decent lav mic. Probably $300-600 just for the mic and receiver. You'll also need a mixing board or audio interface on top of that.

There are also some budget options, like the Rode SmartLav+ which is pretty good for the price and you can record off of your phone or the 3.5mm input on your computer. You won't get as good of audio or the adjustment as an XLR setup.

There are also products like the invisilav that allow you to wear the mic underneath your clothing to hide it. I would definitely do some research on how to wear a lavalier mic to get the best sound. They can be pretty tricky sometimes because they can rub against your shirt/jacket or the cord can rub and make sound. Best of luck!

The 'new' version of the 12-35 came out along just the other day with the GH5 (look for the II version in the title). The main difference is the IS is designed to work with 5-point stabilization that the GH5 offers. The old version of the 12-35 is still stabilized and will offer 5-point stabilization via a firmware upgrade with the GH5 down the line. As a result of the new version being released this week, the old version I linked to has dropped significantly in price... making the value incredible.

I actually just bought the original 12-35 myself last week. I usually use Canon glass but I wanted at least native lens (to use as a backup as well as for my gimbal), and I couldn't say no to the price.

Good sturdy sticks are the most important thing you can invest in. This was my first 'pro' tripod and I still use it today. It's an incredibly cheap option to get you started and it will last you years. I'd suggest upgrading the fluid head down the line (the one it comes with is OK but a good fluid head is EVERYTHING). This one is the one I use with it (as well as 90% of other videographers haha) and I am very happy with it. Benro is a good brand too, but the value of the Davis&Sanford is great.

Slider is unfortunately not something to go cheap with... it'll just cause pain and suffering if you go cheap, haha. Take a hard look at the Edelkrone SliderPlus PRO and Rhino products.

I'd almost suggest getting a Gimbal prior to getting a slider. GH4 with the 12-35 will be pushing it to it's weight capacity but people have good results with that combo nonetheless.

As far as lights, I am a big fan of Dracast LED lights. I purchased Daylight and I use CTO filters rather than going with bi-color, as it gives me more output which is definately needed with the GH4. The battery option is a lifesaver on these lights, and the customer support with Dracast is really good (they fixed a light in a week for me when the mount broke).

Don't forget to get variable ND filter like this one so you can shoot outdoors as well.

Less than $500 for even a decent camera will be difficult. I'd suggest looking into a used Canon T3i or a new/used T2i. They may be slightly more expensive but they're the best thing you'll find around that price range (in my experience). Also because they both have interchangeable lenses you can upgrade/adapt them as you get more cash to invest.

I know less about mics although I think it may be difficult to find what your describing, especially at that price. Something like this may be what your after but I really can't say that the quality will be great and the cable will probably get in the way if you're moving around.

What I'd really suggest is to abandon the idea of on-body unless it's absolutely necessary for some reason. If you're up for doing that I'd suggest a shotgun mic (something like this would probably do just fine). The absolute best option in terms of quality and lasting value would be to buy an H4n. The disadvantage is that you'll end up having to sync your audio to the video but the advantages are that the audio quality is great, you can add better (XLR) mics in the future and you can move it around depending on where your audio source is.

I know that this isn't exactly what you're looking for but I hope it's some help anyway. If you have questions please feel free to ask :)

First off, I wouldn't get the mark 1 lens with GH5. Spend the little extra money if you're going for a Panasonic lens and get the mark ii to use in body image stabilization. Basically it would come down to a choice between a cheaper lens and a gimbal or a lens with dual IS. However, the camera + the IS 2 lens would be your budget, and there's certainly lots of other stuff to buy when getting started.

This is a set up I have used with the Black Magic Pocket Cinema Camera and it works great, fully expect it to look even better with the GH5:

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-LUMIX-LEICA-SUMMILUX-H-X015/dp/B00J8H7H48/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1493994405&sr=8-5&keywords=panasonic+14mm

https://www.amazon.com/Zhiyun-Crane-Brushless-Handheld-Stabilizer/dp/B01I2MWUOG/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1493994394&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=zhiyun+crane&psc=1

That is a lightweight 14mm 1.7 lens (works great in low light) and the most affordable gimbal on the market. I also have access to a Ronin-m at work, and I have to just say, the shots you can get on both are different, but the Zhiyun is soooo much easier to set up and get great shots with. Plus it fits into a small backpack and is far less to lug around. I would also recommend either one of these monopods to use with this system:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=554095&gclid=CLPR1In82NMCFdgKgQod580D0w&is=REG&ap=y&m=Y&c3api=1876%2C%7Bcreative%7D%2C%7Bkeyword%7D&A=details&Q=

^ This is a great set up with the Crane. What I do is velcro the included remote to the lower point of the monopod and use it to control the crane manually. I can then extend the pole (even smoothly while filming) and essentially have my own hand held jib anywhere I go.

https://www.amazon.com/Sirui-SUP204SR-Photo-Video-Monopod/dp/B00I5NKCNE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493994900&sr=1-1&keywords=sirui+monopod

^This version is a bit heavier, but also a touch more stable. You can not smoothly lengthen the pole while filming, but this monopod has the added version of feat attached to the bottom. You can set it up at its shortest and it will stand on its own as long as it's not windy. Great for setting up shots in the wild that you would also like to be in. I put a quick release plate between each point of contact (Quick release on the monopod -> crane, and quick release on crane -> camera), and you can just as easily set it down on the feat and detach from camera with no issues.

Now, something to consider is that you could get two GH4's (on ebay, around $700 each) for the price of one GH5. I guess that would depend on if you have others filming with you and whatnot. I think it really depends upon what you're wanting to film. Like for example, what exactly would you do with the drone and how would it help your footage? If you think that you need landscape shots and what not, then it's probably best to jump down a level in camera for a decent drone.

Some other things to consider that you might need:
-External Mic
-Tripod
-Extra batteries
-Fast enough SD card to record 4k (Sandisk Extreme)

Another camera to consider may be the Sony a6500 for around $600 cheaper.

I can definitely say I'm jealous! I wish I could do what you're doing.

The quality of the footage is definitely nice and high, which is always important in vlogs, especially in travel vlogs. I definitely recommend picking up some kind of microphone to improve the talking quality, but it's honestly not bad. It's just the easiest nitpick to make. One cost effective mic that I've had repeatedly recommended to me is this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015R0IQGW/?coliid=I27W1PR76WPIHS&colid=1T8AH88FFX71&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

The music felt fitting, and had that 'pop' music feel that is very appropriate for this type of video. I can agree with noodltube in that you should focus more on having the commentary match the clips (if at all possible), but I think the shots you did provide were really nice for the most part.

I would also suggest lowering the background audio as well.

Finding a format for videos, I find, is one of the biggest difficulties in creating content. I would suggest you heavily focus on determining what your format should be for future videos. This was just a trailer of sorts, so I'm not really criticizing this video as much as just giving you hopefully helpful hints for the future.

Keep giving it your all and I wish you luck on your journey! Sorry if my criticisms sound too harsh, I think you're off to a fine start.

Congrats on your new camera! As a general rule of thumb, having purchased hundreds of thousands worth of gear over my career, it's best to invest in the best glass that your budget can allow. Lenses generally hold their value over time and as long as you take care of them, can last decades. They will certainly outlive your camera. That said, the lens that you've chosen is fine as a starter, but I think you'll quickly outgrow it. Look for a faster lens (lower f-stop) if you can afford it. Personally, I went the route of going with vintage prime lenses that are cheaper but still great quality. I added a Metabones Speedbooster to be able to mount them. Higher up-front cost for you, but if this is more than just a hobby, I think it's a good investment.

The other thing I would add is an onboard microphone. A cheap one that is actually pretty good is this no-name brand one. The built-in microphone is pretty much useless.

Those are the bare essentials, in my opinion. I actually do okay with a handful of EN-EL20 batteries. They're cheap and compact. Just don't expect to record long events or anything beyond 20-30 minutes. You can get an external battery pack for not too expensive, though. If you have the budget, I'd also recommend a cage to protect, provide stability, and get extra mounting points. Hope that helps! Oh, and you may also want to hit up bmcuser.com for more info.

I don't really think there's a clear answer for this, but the good news is that there are many excellent options these days. Sound quality isn't always the most important aspect to consider. Many artists have had great success with just an SM58 microphone hooked up to their computer. If you're just starting up and you don't need studio quality recordings, something like this might be fine. I often just use a basic handheld mic when I'm multitracking a new arrangement for my group to learn. It's quick, simple, and often easier for recording beatboxing with too. There are plenty of free or affordable programs available for multitracking too, so the mic will be your main expense.

If you're looking to make some top quality recordings, you can expect to start spending more as well. Not going to lie - this is where it can get complicated and expensive. I'd recommend starting basic and get a decent condenser mic with a stand and a pop screen, a soundcard or usb mixer with a decent preamp, and stick with the cheaper software for recording.

If you find you're getting more serious with your recordings you may want to upgrade the microphone to a Neumann, install some noise dampening panels, and look into a DAW (digital audio workstation, or recording software) such as Pro Tools.

Whatever you do, don't spend too much on overpriced cables. Check out Monoprice

I just picked up a [Rode NT-USB] (https://www.amazon.com/Rode-NT-USB-USB-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B00KQPGRRE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526506838&sr=8-2&keywords=nt+rode+usb&linkCode=ll1&tag=thesysadminch-20&linkId=36cb209ceaf0e58a89cad9db949bf23f) and I love the quality. It has a great tone and has a good depth to it. It is a little pricey at $169 on Amazon but if you're going to be doing videos for the long haul I definitely think its worth the money.

While I was doing my research i also noticed a lot of people mention that they had a Blue Yeti from Blue Microphones and they liked it as well. This is also a USB mic and the sound quality is really similar (and the mic is about 50-60 bucks cheaper) but I just really liked how the Rode Mic sounded.. That's just personal preference. You can find this mic at around $100 so its still a little pricey but again, if you're going to be doing videos its still worth it.

If you're looking for something to use with a DSLR camera, I like the way the [Rode VMGO Shotgun Mic] (https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VMGO-Lightweight-Microphone-Super-Cardioid/dp/B00GQDORA4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1526507932&sr=1-1&keywords=rode+shotgun+mic&linkCode=ll1&tag=thesysadminch-20&linkId=35f8c1b5488c41dba8cf0a011e6d6db4) sounds. It has that full sound and this one comes in around a little under $80.

Finally if you're looking for something under $20 I would probably go with the [Boya By M1] (https://www.amazon.com/BOYA-Electret-Condenser-Microphone-Smartphones/dp/B00MP566OM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1526507786&sr=1-1&keywords=boys+by-m1&linkCode=ll1&tag=thesysadminch-20&linkId=c8648c47cac36d32bf6e84c547b8fdfa) mic. This is a lapel mic so its easily portable and for like $16 its a great starter mic.

I did my research for about 2 months because I was so indecisive on which type i wanted i get for my use case. Since I do Voice-overs I wanted to get something that's easily compatible with my laptop so thats why i chose the USB route. Keep in mind that audio quality is just as if not more important than the video quality.. If you're audio sucks, you won't keep long retention rates which means your videos won't rank as high which means less views and ultimately less subscribers.

Hope that helps!!

I don't think it all looks like crap, it just looks like DSLR footage shot during a live event. That will mean shaky, mostly out of focus, and grainy.

These camera really aren't designed for live event shooting, but you can work around some of those issues.

First, the shaky-ness. What were you using to stabilize the camera? Do you have a shoulder mount, or a monopod that you can run and gun with? The last thing you want to do is hand-hold these cameras. If you HAVE to hand hold it without any kind of support, my advice would be to flip it into 720p/60 frames mode. You can then slow that footage down loss-less and it tends to take the bite out of shaky CMOS stuff. I use this trick for weddings all the time. The slow-motion makes boring activies (like make-up) look more dramatic, and smoothes the shot out.

Concerning the out-of-focus shots, that all comes down to your lens and how you approach your shots. It looks like you had poor lighting in there, and so you probably opened that 50mm up to get an exposure. I know that seems like the right thing to do, but for live-event keep that lens stopped down as much as you can. F5.6 to F8 would help keep most of the shots sharp(er). Compensate the light lost with a higher ISO. You can fix grain in post way easier then fixing an out of focus shot. For my money, these cameras are acceptable way up to 1600 ISO.

With the DSLR at 1600 or so, a more traditional 3 chip live event style camera would probably exhibit the same amount of grain around 12db of gain, and that's still perfectly acceptable. I assume you are delivering in SD on disc, or upload HD to the web, which would smooth a lot of the grain out anyway.

I might recommend this shoulder mount. It's plastic-fantastic but for $23 bucks you really can't beat it. Unless you break it, like I did, but for such a low price to replace, who cares?

A sharper, constant aperture kit lens might help with some of your out-of-focus shots. I think the Tamron 17-50 f2.8 is a great lens for Canon DSLRs and can be usually be caught as a deal of the day cheap, or for around $325 used and in good condition.

Just keep shooting, you'll get there.

Agreed. You CAN us an SM57 for vocals. In fact, I know some musicians that use those for when they play live. But, just for bedroom recording, a condenser mic will be much more suited. What type of music are you guys making? If he's going to be yelling/screaming, the 57 will do (it'll be quiet on the Scarlett if he's just going to sing regularly is what I'm saying). As would any dynamic mic I would think. The condenser mic though utilizes the 48v phantom power on the Scarlett and they usually are better at picking up quieter sounds like singing, acoustic guitars, etc... SM57s are great for things like snare drums and stuff like that. But as far as condenser mics, I can vouch for the Rode NT1a. It's just a bit more expensive than what you're saying, but man... it really sounds incredible for vocals. Awesome mic. Anyway... That's my two cents. PM me if you want to talk more. That's an awesome present too btw. Oh! Good call on the Focusrite too. They make great shit. But yep, I hope he likes whatever you end up getting. :-)

Gonna try to give you a good answer here, but understand that you get what you pay for. The a7sii is a great camera but if you load it up with a bunch of shit accessories you should expect sub par performance.

1. Get more batteries, and buy a better brand if you can afford them. Wasabi batteries do wonky things sometimes, I wouldn't use them on stuff I was being paid to do.
   
   
2. Neewer makes a lot of consumer level production gear. This will get you started but you can expect this thing to fall apart or break within a year or two, they're not built to last (whereas my Zacuto gear is going strong after three years of abuse, and will last for many years to come with proper maintenance).
   
   
3. You're out of luck on this one. There are some good DIY options but nothing (that I know of) that is going to look professional enough to use for weddings. The glidecam is the accepted entry point into steady cam work, so if you're not interested in that the next best thing would be to get a good lens with OIS and practice smooth moves with the shoulder rig (though steady cam and handheld are two very different styles and looks).
   
   
4. You're not going to get all those features for less than $500 - $1000, and even those monitors are questionable. I have never used this monitor, it's just the first link on amazon that has decent reviews. I would expect at that price point it's going to look like shit, don't expect accurate color, focus peaking, or any other features to be accurate, if the monitor has them at all. This will literally only serve as a reference monitor to give you a bigger screen to look at.
   
   
5. I really can't comment on this, I'm unfamiliar with Sony's lineup and don't have a ton of experience using lens adapters (though in my little bit of experience you usually sacrifice a good bit of sharpness).
   
   
6. I have been using this little guy for conferences and events for the past two years or so and absolutely love it. It eats through the 2000mah batteries pretty quickly so you'll want some 4000s.
   
   I've bought a ton of gear over the years for both myself and for my company and it really comes down to you get what you pay for. You can spend $1000 finishing out your kit and expect that to get you a year or two of decent use. Or you could invest in better equipment that will last you for many years to come, and perform better while doing it. There's nothing more frustrating than a cheap piece of gear that you're always fighting only to have it break anyway.

Hi 'ra available to you is probably your smartphone.

You can significantly improve your phone's video image quality by downloading FiLMiC Pro from iTunes.

This app will allow you to control aspect ratio, white balance, exposure, resolution and frame rates - turning your iPhone into a pretty good approximation of a camcorder.

FiLMiC Pro was used for this recent feature film shot entirely on iPhones:

• Unsane Trailer by Stephen Soderburgh (full movie here)
  
  And this one, shot with FiLMiC Pro and inexpensive anamorphic "widescreen" lenses plus a Steadicam Smootheecounterbalanced stabilizer:
  
  
• Tangerine - Red Band Trailer (NSFW - full movie here)
  
  This one used FiLMiC Pro, iPhones and a jib:
  
  
• "ALL UP TO YOU!" - iPhone 5 Movie
  
  Without a stabilizer or gimbal, handheld cellphone video can be very hard to watch.
  
  You should also invest in a directional mic or a lavalier for better sound than you can get from the built-in mic. Ideally, you would want a dedicated mic on a boom, but I am assuming you don't have a boom operator.
  
  Directional Mic
  
  The least expensive option is the Rode VideoMic Me. It is the best directional mic you can buy for your phone.
  
  Here is the Rode promo video with example audio: https://youtu.be/1-x8MVngwaI
  
  Lavalier
  
  For dialogue between 2 actors, you can get a Movo dual lavalier. You can either plug it into the phone you're using for video - or you can download an app to a second phone (e.g. Rode REC for iOS), record a "scratch" audio track with your camera phone's internal microphone and sync the audio from the second phone to your camera's audio track in the edit, as seen here (example is for the Rode SmartLav, but it makes the point for the entire lav/phone category):
  
  http://youtu.be/P2RIFZOGMZo
  
  With the right software and support gear, your phone can give you great video quality.
  
  Hope this is helpful, and good luck with your short films!', im DAD.

Great video, love how you own the camera, and it seems you have a supportive partner who films you!! Your editing is great, your camera work is great, you have a gorilla pod, sometimes your shots of walking to the escalator or even of yourself while walking is shake maybe a gimbal would be a good upgrade? I use https://amzn.to/2q4k878 or Maybe it's because you're drunk LOL

But other than that love your intro with your title, great great job!!!!!

Not really.

I'd like to offer you some suggestions for your videos that could improve them a lot, if that's ok.

1. Audio. If you can, I'd recommend getting a lavalier microphone (Something like this). That'll improve your audio quality quite a bit and pretty much eliminate most of that echo in your room. Another thing I highly, highly recommend for you is music. Get a bit of background music to use in your videos while you're talking, it'll help a lot. There's tons of royalty free sources online for music. Incompetech.com is one, or even YouTube's own audio library.
   
   
2. Camera Video. There's...quite a few things that could be done about your video quality. Intros are fine, but it looks like you used a template online. I always advise against these, as they are a dime a dozen and don't really add much to the video. If you upload fairly regularly I'd just get rid of it completely and just jump right into the topic of the video. I also noticed that your lighting could use some work. Most don't realize how much this adds to a video. I recommend getting a pair of these, softbox lights. They add a nice soft light that looks great. If you want to get a little pricier, these are very popular. Ring lights provide a nice soft lighting that's used by a lot of vloggers.
   
3. Game video. I noticed that you just recorded the switch screen. To me, that's below bare minimum quality for games. You need a capture card of sorts that you can plug the Switch into, then record off of the capture card. If you just have that laptop, you could probably get away with using an external capture card, like an Elgate Game Capture. These are able to capture gameplay from any game system with an HDMI out, and the Switch dock has one of those.

Ok. My tips not gonna work as you are far away from the camera. I assumed the gender because of clothing. If you were closer I would suggest you this, and it's what I do. Connect the earphone to the camera, take the earphone under the shirt (this is where clothing matters), make sure you have the Mic like thing in near your coller and put the rest behind your back. Sounds very complicated I know!

Here's some other suggestions.

1. Use an external audio recorder with a boom mic. Just search on Amazon, they have all price ranges. You can get the boom mic from $35 to $1000. And the cheapest recorder is probably what I know, $70 or something.
   
   
2. If that's a little expensive for you then you can buy only external boom mic that works with phone. Check this out https://www.amazon.com/Movo-VXR10-Microphone-Windscreen-Smartphones/dp/B0723D3FVL/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1537305382&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rode+videomicro&dpPl=1&dpID=51uEkpAjj8L&ref=plSrch
   These are great, cheap and can record great audio.
   
   
3. Lav mic. Well to use that thing, you've got to have an audio recorder. If you're gonna buy an audio recorder then I personally recommend you to go for a boom mic because lavs are pretty complicated to use sometimes and as you move around it can record all the unnecessary sounds.
   
   
4. Honestly it depends on your environment. If you're in a very noisy kitchen the audio quality is gonna be bad no matter how expensive equipment you use. And if it's quite then a even headphone would work.
   
   
5. Learn audio editing a little no matter what equipment you're gonna use. I know sound designing, audio editing so I recommend you to learn this because you can fix many issues in post. This is what you need to learn (bare minimum): compression, noise reduction, reverb, EQ. Some software recommendations- Audacity (free), Wavepad (paid but affordable), Logic Pro X (expensive and only for Mac users), Adobe Audition (paid bit completely worth the money).
   
   Hope it helps. At the end, it's your choice. See how noisy your kitchen is, how7ch money you can spend and other stuffs. My personal suggestion would be to use an external mic that works with the phone (if not too much noisy). Check the link given above. And yes, always buy Rode Videomics because they are the best.
   
   PS: Congrats that you've a kid. You're lucky!

Don’t forget a mic. this mic should be all you need to get started. It’s a great mic that punches well above its price class. But please don’t forget about audio. I know you stated “I won’t do much of that” but audio is so damn important and this mic is so cheap that you can’t afford not to pick one up. Even for tiny bits of audio it will make your stuff sound 1000times better and audio is often what separates the people with pretty images from people making truly great videos. And definitely a big factor in what separates amateurs from professionals. I guarantee you’ll use/need/want quality audio way more than you think. For under 30$ bucks it will be the best investment you make. Much more important than a new camera IMO.

I bought this Neewer rig last week. There is so little written about this brand of rig so me buying it was a big shot in the dark. However, my initial reaction was that it was pretty damn decent for the price range. I think that I will create a video review for it to hopefully elucidate the pros and cons for future buyers.

I'll disclaim that not only am I a film making rookie (only doing corporate film making for about half a year now) but I am also using an incredibly light - not to mention outdated - GH2 setup. Also, at the time of writing I have used this rig in a pro capacity only once, so I only have one point of data to base it's professional performance on. Therefore take my opinion with the caveat that I have never experienced any other rigs, but also that it may not be a suitable rig for much heavier cameras. With that in mind, I can't help but feel that the rig was worth the £60 I paid for it.

I forgot to buy a counterweight for the job I was working on and so I wasn't really using the product as intended. But just the unbalanced rig alone seemed to reduce excess camera movement to a satisfying level. One thing that did turn out to be a bit challenging is that the rig did make the camera significantly heavier, so in shots that required me to film for more than a few minutes my arms got tired and a little bit more shake started to come into frame. I imagine that this will be solved when I pick up a counterweight, but I can't be sure until I test it.

Another of my big concerns pre-purchase was build quality. I made sure to prioritise the Aluminium build for strength and it seems sturdy and well fitted. There were some comments on the Amazon article about the thumb screws not tightening firmly enough but I found that they fitted quite snugly. People also talked about the loose handle bars sliding out of position and - while they aren't immovable - they certainly don't move unless I make them. Once again, this may be different under the weight of a heavier camera. I also made sure to prioritise the model featuring aluminium thumbscrews for reasons that I am sure are obvious.

The model I went for had a different shoulder pad; moulded out of a single foam block that is shaped to fit on your shoulder. I went for this version over the shoulder pad that is featured in your link because I wanted to make sure that I could fit a counterweight to my build and I wasn't sure if this was possible with the model you linked. This is definitely something to consider.

I also looked at other models, but the [next affordable shoulder rig] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005RQK4B2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005RQK4B2&linkCode=as2&tag=drippingdawn-20) was significantly more expensive and seemed to ultimately be the same product. It even was missing some of the features of the Neewer shoulder rig like the height-adjustable camera mount and quick release plate.

Oh! That's another thing, the quick release plate is pretty decent in some regards and a bit iffy in others. It is solid enough, and the QR system works fine, but the screws on the plate get in the way of my GH2's flip-out screen unless you slightly unscrew them before attaching the camera. This doesn't affect stability or structural integrity but it does mean you could lose the larger screw if you aren't careful. I would consider sticking it down with tape. One other factor in the base plate is that the 1/4" screw isn't a thumbscrew. You might want to look into buying a replacement screw on ebay or Amazon (or whatever) to replace it with. I'm sorry I didn't do this when I bought the rig. On my last job I had to carry around a 2 pence piece to unscrew the camera from the base plate in order to change the battery. This was obviously a big faff and because the battery switch took so long I actually missed some useful footage. I'm now looking into an external battery setup so that I can dodge this problem in the future. Hopefully the external battery doubles as a counterweight as well.

In conclusion it seems like a decent bit of kit. Not something that would service you for your entire professional career but definitely an acceptable starting rig, especially for the price range. One of the biggest advantages to using the unbalanced rig on a corporate job was that nobody mistook me for a stills photographer. Which is normally a big pain.

If I have missed anything feel free to ask.

Here’s my 2 cents from someone who has done both professional video and amateur photography. Don’t get any of those kits. Almost everything is cheaper/better quality buying separately.

First, the body. I love the rebel series so I think a T7 is more than fine with what your trying to do right now. As someone who also has a “family camera” (aka I do all the family photos and some video), I personally have a 70D but I have used the T’s a lot and they are decent. My only recommendation is to by a referb from canon directly. They are usually $100-$200 cheaper and (from what I have seen) no difference in quality.

As you rightly pointed out, lenses are going to be the most important and most expensive thing that you buy (more than likely). Personally for a first lens, I would go with a nifty fifty (canon 50mm 1.8). It’s about $100 and it is fantastic for both photos and video for that price point. Plus, unless you are planning on getting a light kit of some sort you will probably want the addition aperture room for low light (unless you are doing video outside). There is a reason why it is the most recommended lens for amateurs. I personally have shot tons of portraits, music videos, and just other general video/pictures with this lens and even though I (now) have a few others I keep coming back to this one.

I don’t know much about audio, but I have heard some decent things about the rode mic. There is also an off-brand version of the rode mix (what I use) called [Takstar](TAKSTAR SGC-598 Interview Microphone for Nikon/Canon Camera/DV Camcorder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E58AA0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S1M1BbAP1Z3QC). It seems to be pretty decent for amateur stuff, so it might be good enough for your purposes with the added bonus of being 1/3 the price. But I’m sure that someone can speak more to the audio than I can.

One place to absolutely NOT skimp on/don’t buy in a kit is a tripod. For the most part, the more expensive a tripod is, the better quality it is. Not always true, but for the most part the materials that are used to make tripods are just expensive. If you want a metal tripod, which you probably do since the plastic ones wear out easily and can’t hold much weight.

Anyway, just my thoughts!

Just a few thoughts: If you are a beginner and especially if you are going to be both operating the camera and doing interviews at the same time, don't use a DSLR. You need a regular consumer camcorder, the nicest one you can afford. Be sure it has an external microphone input and a headphone output. So, you will need at least one external microphone, a shotgun and/or a lavalier. The most important thing in your documentary is good sound!

This little Audio Technica lavalier can sound just fine:
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-3350-Omnidirectional-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B002HJ9PTO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382119845&sr=8-2&keywords=audio+technica+lavalier+mic

This inexpensive shotgun also works well:
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382119920&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+technica+shotgun+mic

A little explanation: A consumer camcorder has pretty good auto focus and usually face recognition, so you won't have to worry about keeping things in focus. Also, you'll have pretty good auto exposure and auto white balance. If you are shooting your first documentary with limited experience and/or a very small crew, you need to think about content and let the camera help you instead of having to think about too many things. It's true a DSLR with a good operator can make your documentary look better, but it won't matter if the story isn't there. If your story is good, the audience will accept a lot of shortcomings, especially in the picture.

When shooting, use the external microphone whenever you can. If you have only one subject, use the lavalier, otherwise use the shotgun. Always monitor the audio in the headphones. I have a friend who accidentally plugged the microphone into the headphone jack and didn't know it until too late!

Good luck!

1. For a camera get a Panasonic Lumix GH5 body, that way you get super good video quality at 4k. Couple this with a 12-35mm f2.8 constant aperture lens for sharp video and good lower light performance.
   
   
2. For your audio, you can do a lav kit like this. It comes with a Zoom h4n and a lav. You can stick this in a pocket and record the lav, or you can put it with the camera and use the built in microphones to record the audio. If you want an on camera mic, the Rode Video Mic Pro gives good quality audio, but keep your expectations realistic if you try and record something far away (not the best solution).
   
   
3. You could use a gimbal like this. They're easier to use than the glidecams and they perform better. That camera and lens is fairly light so it shouldn't be a problem.
   
   
4. I use a Davis & Sanford provista tripod. The build quality is fantastic, and it has a standard 75mm bowl mount that you can change the head on in the future.
   
   
5. You'll probably want a fairly high powered light system to light a large area. Aputure kits are good quality and I would go with those.

Hey guys, I hope this is the right place to ask this.

To make a long story short, I'm looking to buy a mic to use for Skype/TS/VoIP type stuff, mostly while gaming. I'm also looking to try something nicer than the low grade desk mics that I've used in the past. I was previously planning to just buy something like the Audio Technica AT2020 USB, but I'd like to try to find a solution that will allow me to reduce the level of sound that my mic picks up from other sources, primarily my mechanical keyboard, which is loud as hell.

To this end, I was thinking about picking up a fairly cheap shotgun mic and hooking it into a USB mixer that I could plug into my computer. I think the shotgun mic's directional nature would be an improvement on the mics I've been using (and that my friends have been complaining about) and would have less sound picked up from my keyboard (although I know it won't go away entirely).

Keeping in mind that I'm on a college student budget, and that this isn't for any kind of recording/voice over work for music or anything, here's what I had planned:

Audio-Technica ATR-6550 as the mic. It's low-cost and has reasonably good reviews. I've owned a few different pairs of AT headphones before and never had any complaints about their build quality or performance, so this seems like a good pickup at my price point. If this setup works, I could consider picking up a nicer mic later on in time.

Behringer Xenyx 302USB as the mixer. Again, low cost and obviously not stellar in performance or options, but I don't need it to do very much.

My understanding of it is that I can hook the mixer into my computer via USB, and it will register it as a recording/playback device. Then I can hook the shotgun mic (with a 1/4in adaptor on it) into the XLR/TRS mic input and that will serve as the new mic. I also should be able to plug my headphones into the headphones jack and my speakers into the output of the mixer, so that all of the recording and playback devices are handled by the mixer.

Ultimately, however, I don't actually know anything about audio equipment, including the mic and mixers. So if anyone has any advice to offer or suggestions to make, that'd be greatly appreciated. Also, if I'm completely wrong about how the inputs/outputs or something like that on the mixer works, then it'd be awesome if someone could help explain it to me.

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Description|Why you should buy a futon// futons on amazon: US: https://amzn.to/2IpbnQR UK: https://amzn.to/2Xjlfiu CA: https://amzn.to/2Io0pLs⤶You should buy a japanese futon for many reasons and in this video I cover benefits ranging from the construction / composition of a futon as well as the practical benefits one gets from having a futon. As well as some pointers to look out for when in the market for a futon mattress.⤶⤶You can find futons on amazon:⤶US: https://amzn.to/2IpbnQR⤶UK: https://amzn.to/2Xjlfiu⤶CA: https://amzn.to/2Io0pLs⤶⤶This video was recorded using a Canon EOS M50: US: https://amzn.to/2Kxbw6J ⤶UK: https://amzn.to/2P5VKhA CA: https://amzn.to/2UzLeFi⤶Microphone - RODE VideoMicro: US: https://amzn.to/2DbOig1 UK: https://amzn.to/2Zaez87 CA: https://amzn.to/2X8V3Xw⤶⤶Looking to start a YouTube channel I recommend using the analytics tools⤶VidIQ: https://vidiq.com/#_l_yv⤶TubeBuddy: https://www.tubebuddy.com/AlexTheAnder⤶⤶DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.⤶⤶In this video Alexander talks about why people should buy a futon, what the benefits are of owning a japanese futon as it relates to it's material composition, it's benefits for the body as well as some tips for how to best take care of it and what to look out for when in the market for buying a japanese futon bed.

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A lot of people are recommending getting lights, and that's a great option. I always like to share the DSLR Video Shooter $150 light kit video. He also made a video about the Movo VXR10 microphone which is a nice little mic similar to the Rode Videomicro. If you bought those two things at full price that would leave you about $400 for a camera. The Canon T6 with two lenses is on sale right now for that much, or just $340 for the kit lens version.

I would also recommend This budget kit video from Nate's Film Tutorials. It's for a $1000 budget, but it offers some good suggestions for budget kit stuff. He mentions using clamp lights and LED bulbs, which is a good suggestion for getting more light in your environment for cheap. It also mentions the Panasonic G7, which is on sale for about $500 right now, and is a great camera.

With some combination of these tips and recommendations, you could probably set up a pretty nice starter kit for yourself with your budget. Even with these suggestions, though, I would still recommend saving up a bit, and maybe buying pieces of a kit as you have enough money to buy them. You don't need every single item here to start making stuff, so a few things (maybe camera, microphone) to start would be fine, and get more items later.

Hey! You got some pretty cool shots here! I have a couple recommendations:

Depending on what you're shooting video with, it looks kind of like you shot a lot of the video at a faster shutterspeed and the video at 60 frames per second. With a few exceptions, it generally looks better/more natural to the human eye if you shoot in 30 or 24 frames per second and as a rule of thumb double that for your shutterspeed. So 30fps =1/60 and 24 fps = 1/50. Unless you have a reason to shoot outside of one of those two that's a good default. 60fps is also pretty good for slowing down footage for a subtle slo-mo if that's what you chose to shoot natively, for a travel video like this, that could be pretty cool.

Also, some of your shots are pretty shaky, I would advise for stuff like this to get a handheld stabilizer like this one or if you can't do that, the stabilizing software within the editing suite you're using (and preferably, do BOTH of those things for really radical, smooth shots).

You'd be surprised how much better your footage will look doing just those two things! :) keep making stuff like this friend!!

If it were up to me, I would get a Rode Video Micro, which is around $40 cheaper than the Video Mic Go, (I'm going USD because that's where I am, not sure if you are GBP or what, but the price ratio should be around the same) and from most of the reviews out there seems to be a bit better all around, and it comes with a dead-cat wind breaker, which you would have to pay extra for if you got the Go. If you are shooting in a forest you'll want that to help break any wind noise coming in through the trees.

Here is a review comparing the Video Micro with the Video Mic Go and the Video Mic Pro:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSfDWCpRUk8

So case 1 is get a Video Mic Go for around $100 (https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VMGO-Lightweight-Microphone-Super-Cardio/dp/B00GQDORA4) and get a dead cat wind screen for around $30 (https://www.amazon.com/Rode-DDCGO-DeadCat-Artificial-Shield/dp/B00JG8IBW6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X6C0TJQWT1W5RK1TW680) because you will absolutely need it if there is any kind of wind. That would be around $130-140 depending on shipping/tax/etc.

Case 2 is get a Rode Video Micro, which I personally own and really really like, and that is $60 AND comes with a wind screen, so for the money you have saved you could get a Zoom H1 as well and come out pretty close to the same price!
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1183909-REG/rode_videomicro_compact_on_camera.html
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1260111-REG/zoom_h1b_h1_ultra_portable_digital_audio.html
$60 for the mic + ~$80 for the recorder puts you at $140, so like $10 more. Not bad in my opinion. And it gets you the peace of mind of being able to monitor your audio, make sure that you don't have any weird interference or background noise since it has a headphone jack. Yes, you have to sync audio in post, but it is totally worth it in the huge jump in audio quality. This is basically the setup that I used for quite a while (H1+ Nikon ME-1 mic for me, so this setup is probably even better) and it is a really cheap option compared to what is out there (now I am using a Zoom H4n Pro + Sennheiser Lavalier Mics + Rode Video Mic Pro and some other gear as well,) and there probably isn't a massive difference between the two setups.

Just my opinion, but I think that you would end up with better audio the second way, and the audio really makes the movie. Bad audio and a good video image/story still generally is a bad video.

I really like the quality of the audio. I've used it as my only source of audio for 4 short films as a mixer and even some foley with the onboard mics. I use it separately with a shotgun mic on a boom (just using whatever mic I can get from my school, haven't purchased one yet).

However, I wouldn't recommend it for your case of recording on your camera because you'd end up having to (and I've never tried this) rigging up a way to have it attached to your camera then lined in to the camera with the onboard mics which are fine for receptions and all but bad if you want to focus on people talking (then to fix that you'd have to attach a shotgun mic via XLR and it just becomes cumbersome).

I would honestly look into the mic that the OP has: Rode VideoMic Pro. I've never used it but it has great reviews and seems, to me, to be the best cheap solution for on-camera audio. Use it outdoors with a deadcat and Magic Lantern installed on your T2i to monitor the audio while filming and it'll be a great option for videography and short films.

OR/ALSO/HEY RICH GUY CHECK THIS OUT, you can use this JuicedLink DT414 which is designed to attach to your camera and mix up to 4 mics. Yeah...lots of options.

From reading the other comments I'm guessing you don't so I would either get a used camera or use your phone. The budget of yours is quite limiting to fit in audio, lighting and a decent camera however it may work if you get a slightly older camera.

I would get the t3i body only which you can get at an average of $300. This has an articulating screen, good for interviews, and is still a good beginner camera years on from when it was released. The lens I would get is the YONGYUO YN50mm f.18 which is an cheap autofocus lens at a fixed distance to achieve the best quality.

For microphones I would reccommend the Takstar SGC-598 which is really cheap and surprisingly good. You can put this on a mic stand and get it as close to both the interviewer and the interviewee for the best sound. You will then need a wire to connect it to the camera. However if you have extra money you can save up for a Zoom h1 which you plug the mic into and it records seperately for better audio.

All in all this kit will cost you $500 for just the audio and no lighting. This would cost you about $50 extra for softboxes however if you shoot in daylight it will be much easier and require less lighting.

Another kit you could try is using your phone for video and then buying just audio and lighting. For this I would get the Rode Videomic Pro, the Zoom h1, a mic stand, a softbox lighting kit (2 lights) and any other things like memory cards etc. This would cost you around $400.

That's cool. Was just checking you had considered the options... From an audio point of view, a voiceover will result in cleaner audio, but it sounds like capturing the moment is more important to you.

I'm not familiar with the mic you have... I looked at it on Amazon just now and it should work fine for you, but if it's too sensitive then you need to lower the gain (level) of the mic at it's input stage. Is it the Voice Memos app that you've been using? I don't think that has gain control. I believe the Røde Rec LE app is free and has input level control, so I'd give that a try. Or the PCM Recorder MK II app by TEAC/Tascam should do the same if you prefer that.

If that doesn't work then it's likely that the mic is just too sensitive for yoru application and you might have to consider another option. I don't have much experience with consumer lav mics, only professional ones, but I've heard people say the Røde smartLav+ is surprisingly decent for the price and it has headset mount available too.

Other than that, I think you'd have to step it up a level and look at a better quality mic and probably a hardware audio recorder.

The type of stabilizer you need will depend greatly on your budget and camera size. They range in price from $20-$10k so there's no "right" one you need.

The first thing I would do is figure out how much your camera setup weighs (including the camera body, lens, battery, and any monitors/extras that you plan on having on the camera when shooting). Either weight it on a scale or find out how much each part weighs online and add. Give yourself some wiggle room with the weight limit so you don't buy a useless rig (i.e. if a stabilizer's weight range is 2-5lb, I would put 4.5lb on it at the most).

As far as what type of stabilizer to get, that's all a personal preference. Handheld monopod-type stabilizers are cheap and will get you steady shots, but you have to keep in mind that your arms will get tired very quickly.

Shoulder mounts tend to not be perfectly steady, and are usually used to mimic hand-held (where actual hand-held creates way too shaky footage). Don't buy a shoulder mount with the intent of getting steadicam-esque shots. On the plus side, they're usually cheaper than cages and are easier to use over long periods.

Cages (like the Movi or Ronin) provide excellent results but are often cost-prohibitive for somebody buying their first stabilizer. They tend to take smaller cameras and require some skill in setting them up and using them properly, but if you have the money and your camera fits, you should definitely consider one. I've used the Movi M5 a number of times and it's awesome, albeit a pain to set up and very costly.

In short, do your research and don't feel like you need to drop $5k to get a good stabilizer. If you want help picking a stabilizer for your set-up feel free to DM me and I would love to help!

Glad I could help!

All the cameras will have a built-in mic but I'd highly recommend getting an external shotgun mic (one that sits on top of the camera). They're not that expensive and the quality difference is super worth it. One thing to note though is that some camera's don't have an external mic jack so make sure your camera has that.

[This one](https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VideoMicro-Compact-Camera-Microphone/dp/B015R0IQGW/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=rode+shotgun&qid=1569370736&sr=8-10) is pretty popular and not that expensive. You could also check eBay to get a better deal on one.

Sorry for the delayed response: Yeah, step one is to usually invest in a decent cardioid mic and an audio input. Here are the ones I'd recommend for getting started. Good enough quality to be just under professional tier, though capable of producing professional quality sound, but not so expensive as to offer you features you don't need for years to come:
Mic: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QAUOKS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio Interface (to be able to plug that or any other professional mic into [XLR input]): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6T56CM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this is optional but can be helpful to understand the true sound of your recordings, monitors:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QVMBT9/ref=twister_B07NDRK282?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
(either the 3.5 or 4.5 would be totally fine)

Aside from t hose t hings, the only other things you'd need to get set up would be soundproofing foam, either putting panels up around your space, or around the mic itself. Conversely, you could set up inside a closet full of clothes and accomplish the same task for free, cable length and space permitting.

Good luck!

Im new to the game as well, but so far these are the things I have picked up for my G6:

first, i bought a G6 kit that came with some handy stuff

I have also purchased

A slightly better tripod

A flood light

Battery pack for said light

Variable ND Fader for filming out doors

Rode shotgun Mic

Zoom H1

Lav mic to go with the H1

Headphones to listen for levels

Triple Mount Hot Shoe

Backpack to hold everything

This is just a fun lens, and its cheap the 50mm means its a 100mm equivelent, so its for really tight portraits, but the low aperture is good for low/light and for a very shallow field depth. When I am able to use it, this lens produces the most popular results when i post them online.

new strap cause the one that comes with the G6 sucks!

What i want to get:

A bigger zoom lens I am mostly interested in videography(weddings etc), and this would be good for back of the house shots)

The M 3/4's "nifty fifty"

Two cheap options I’ve used-

This works great on my 5S iPhone but has started crackling with my 6S+ (it improved when I cleaned the headphone jack but wasn’t fully resolved). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018KIJGU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QpxOBb4NPFK0A

This is a pretty solid lapel mic that plugs straight into a phone; I like it and haven’t had any problems with it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019HQHXN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_trxOBbVNM9ATZ

Audacity is a free audio editing program where you can “teach” it the sound of the white noise and then remove that sound from the whole file. It’s more steps but if you want a free option it should at least improve the quality.

Hello dear saints of the audio world,

I go by the name of TheBirdReich (you can call me Bird) and I do a lot of broadcasting on Twitch. Recently, I've been looking into upgrading my audio setup from my USB Blue Yeti microphone to a XlR microphone. I have a lot of questions because the transitional phase from the plug and play usb mics to XLR mics is pretty hefty. My budget is for the new setup is about $500.

1. Dynamic or Condensor?
   
   For my application of "in home live audio streaming", which would be most applicable? (Disclaimer: I yell a lot)
   The mic I was intending on purchasing was the NT1-A. Link is here:
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QAUOKS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
   
   
2. Necessary equipment?
   
   a. Is it a good idea to purchase a preamp to supply the phantom power, and adjust audio before it reaches my computer? Is it necessary?
   This was the one I was looking at:
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LWH79A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A25IRTXJ3Y3DFH
   
   c. Will I need an audio interface to convert the line output of my microphone to a digital output to my computer no matter the type of mic I use? Do you have any budget friendly recommendations?
   
   Overall I'm really unsure about what to even purchase, mainly because of the lack of knowledge, and I don't want to end up spending more than I have to. I know the creed for audio engineers is to spend no more on equipment that meets their requirements. :) I greatly appreciate your input and the fact that you're taking time out your day to help!
   If you have recommendations on gear or items that you know would be good for my application I'd be happy to hear from you on them!
   
   Thanks ahead of time!

If I had to choose, Rode VideoMicPro but I wouldn't use either and get the Rode SmartLav+, it's way cheaper and sounds better than either of these, plus it's a portable solution.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EO4A7L0/

The best beginner audio advice is the closer you are to your mic, the better you'll sound, that's why movies use boom mic setups (which is the best way to use the Rode VideoMicPro, just overhead, as close as possible). Used traditionally, the VideoMicPro will pick up echos from the wall behind you, boom'd it will be much better.

As I suspected, your VO mic is a condenser. Treat your room and see if you get better results. If not, I’d go with a cardioid microphone. I use a Behringer xm8500 which you can find on Amazon for $20-30 depending on who’s selling it and if it includes an XLR cable. I also use a dedicated USB audio interface vs having one built into the mic. I started out with the Behringer UM2 which ran about $60 on Amazon. I’ve since upgraded to a Focusrite Scarlet 2i2 because it has some nice features I was after since I’d gotten more into the podcast. It ran about $110 as I recall. Yes, you’ll have separate components, but you’ll get a better overall sound and it’ll let you mix and match with different microphones for different occasions without having to worry if the mic can plug into your computer directly.


I don’t have any experience with the Rode type setup, but if you’re using the 3.5mm cord to plug straight into the iPhone, I don’t see why it would be poor quality. It almost sounded like the iPhone was using its onboard microphone instead of the external one. I imagine you’re using a Lightning-to-3.5mm headphone jack adapter, yes? What I’d check for is if that 3.5mm audio cord coming off the Rode receiver unit has 3 “rings” on it. Look at a set of headphones that have an inline mic. You’ll see on the plug there’s 3 rings. There’s 3 contact areas inside the jack - right audio, left audio, microphone audio. If that jack doesn’t have 3, it may not be making proper contact inside the plug and telling the iPhone “hey I’ve got an external mic here!” Hope that makes sense.

The picture of this lavalier mic has the kind of jack I’m talking about: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EO4A7L0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_mG91DbNKN5GEE

Hope that helps!

Disclaimer: I’m not an expert, I’ve been doing a tiny bit of research because I want to improve my videos but haven’t pulled the trigger yet. I don’t think for your purposes you necessarily need to spend a ton on a top-if-the-line mic. You can get good results for under $25. Not podcast quality, but good.

It depends what you’re recording with. If you’re using a phone or other device with a 3.5mm (standard headphone) jack, and you are currently just using the mic on the device itself, I think it would be worth looking into a lavalier mic such as this one. You could buy the Similar Amazon Basics version to save even more. Or if you have Apple earbuds, you could just try using those as the mic is generally going to give you much better quality than the phone itself. Keep in mind if your recording device happens to be an iPhone 7 or later, you’ll need a lightning adapter too.

If you are using a device such as a laptop with a USB port, you could consider a USB microphone. I absolutely don’t know enough about these to make a recommendation.

Sorry to give unsolicited criticism, I just thought your video was really well put together and thought the audio quality could be slightly improved to let your voice shine.

I’m definitely going to try this recipe when I have the time btw!

Let me trow my two cents into the ring.

When you say HQ video I assume you mean 1080p. That can be had much cheaper and that at good quality. More than good enough for a studio setting and interview work.

This is a good perspective by Casey Neistat on gear you need:
https://youtu.be/nLSUrTxquyE

With that being said, what most people forget is that lighting, the audio, knowing how to setup and just a little prep that can make all the difference.

In all honesty you could just buy this:

• CANON VIXIA R500
  
  
• Photo Studio Lighting Kit-3
  
  
• Rode Videomic
  
  
• Zoom H2n
  
  
• RODE invisiLav
  
  Now you are at $790.96. Bottom of your budget. Now make improvements on your kit. Maybe get a whole different camera, get another light, or additional Zoom Audio recorders. The H1 is my backup to a H4.
  
  Buying a high end camera is no guarantee that you get good video if all other factors are not right!
  
  Most important are the people that will do the interview. Do yourself a favor and broswe some youtube videos like these:
  
  https://youtu.be/LWpwgDqSkQw
  
  https://youtu.be/E26xv-bZfUU
  
  
  Best of luck!

These Lav's are great especially since you don't need to buy a recorder to go with them if your actors have iPhones.

I recommend a lens with Image Stability or a shoulder rig. The Office is shot handheld, but unless there's some stability, your footage will come out looking like Cloverfield.

Practice your whip zooms and focus pulls. Study the script. Look for the comedic moments and find how they can be complimented with clever cinematography.

Good luck!

Going to repeat my suggested setup in this thread.

Components:

Samsung Galaxy S8 - its just hands down the best video and streaming phone out there atm. Not the S8+ - bigger screen - more heavy - less battery life.

A Samsung Protective Case with a lens kit. The benefit is, when needed, you can attach a wide angle lens to capture bigger groups and environments. For a IRL stream a good thing.

DJI Omni Mobile Gimbal - offers the benefits of enhanced controls and a stable picture during walking and stuff.

RØDE VideoMic Me+Windshield - An external microphone that would enhance the audio depending on where you are pointing it too, as it is a directional mic.

A pack of fast charging, low cost battery packs to power the equipment during the day with a backup for loading during while the others are being used. Depending on usage between 4-8.

A pair of 90° degree flat usb-c cables. You want that cause using the gimbal, you wanna make sure the phone is as centered as possible and a bunch of those custom made cables assures that. Shouldn't be too hard to find a cable guy to set that up, as the items are purchasable on alibaba.

You can see the gimbal in action under the following link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPTwtGZoK8Q
Note: It is an S8+ - performance of the gimbal will be better with the smaller S8!

Rode Microphone Soundcheck outside:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7OIUC6Y2-o&t=319s

S7 Lens video(s8 is ~the same):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9wWvMdbkZk

PowerPack review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-I6AVQW-abI

I hope that offers some ideas how the setup could look like without having to carry around a backpack with a car sized battery and a gazillion of wires.

Ah, okay.

Sorry, the type of video production I am most familiar with is the kind for short film production, music videos, weddings, things of that nature. So I don't feel 100% comfortable trying to give advice on things of this nature. Just from a quick glance though it looks like the adapter to connect an external microphone to your GoPro is $49.00 just by itself.

That leaves about $51 on your maximum budget, which rules out my preferred style of handheld camera microphone, the shotgun mic. If you already have the adapter and therefore don't need to spend the $49 I'd heavily recommend Rode products, specifically for your needs the Videomic Go.

There is this inexpensive shotgun mic bundle that I found on Amazon, but I don't have the experience with this product like I do with Rode products to speak to it's quality. It does record in mono sound, but you can duplicate the audio track in your editing program to simulate stereo. For a quick and cheap setup you can get the adapter and this shotgun mic and that will still be better than audio straight out of the GoPro.

The reason I prefer shotgun mics to lavalier mics is that you have the ability to capture sounds other than yourself if you so desire to, but also lavalier mics have a habit of being obscured by clothing and being affected heavily by wind. I'd hate for you to record a vlog only to realize your sweatshirt had been over your microphone for the better part of the day and now you have no useable audio.

But if you are set on the idea of a lavalier mic then your best bet for the GoPro would be this kit I found on Amazon. You don't need an adapter because it's meant for the GoPro, and it comes with a windscreen which will reduce your wind interference. And at the price this honestly might be your best entry-level audio option for that camera set up to add some production value to a vlog.

your audio is not that bad actually. yeah it can be better but ive done worse lol My audio is finally on point now.

wait ...is that why you have the ear bud in....thats your mic? I bought a great boom mic. I have a lav too if im in a crazy area or dealing with a lot of outside noise.

i like your content i like how you have clips of the actual movie. I wanted to do something with movies but Idk how to get the movie without buying it. blaaaah. i aint tryna steal it. lol

some ppl would be put off by the swearing. Im not but i get that complaint too in my vids.

your thumbnails- good that your face is in them. make your letters bigger. use the space wisely. easy to see and highly recognizable ya know.

boom i use. not too expensive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015R0IQGW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For what you're describing, the video camera sounds like it would be sufficient.

Rode's are OK, but I think they're a bit overpriced and not all that awesome for the price. For the money, Takstar makes a widely-touted knockoff that many people feel sounds better. It sells for about $25. Link here: https://www.amazon.com/TAKSTAR-SGC-598-Interview-Microphone-Camcorder/dp/B00E58AA0I/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537758700&sr=1-5&keywords=video+microphone

You also might consider a wired lavaliere mic. There are several on Amazon from about $20-30. I always have a few as backups and frequently use them as primaries, too. Here's one that's pretty highly rated: https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Omnidirectional-Recording-Conference/dp/B01AG56HYQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537758700&sr=1-6&keywords=video+microphone

Best of luck!

​

Absolutely. I started with a Neewer stabilizer, I've yet to invest in a motorized gimbal myself, as those go for upwards of $600 for a decent one. For short docs I find myself using a shoulder rig the most, and for a shoulder rig I started with the Neewer brand as well. This brand was my best friend starting out lol. The stabilizer/glidecam will take a tinsy bit of practice but this particular one has served me very well personally. YouTube search the gear you're eyeballin, see what others say, and you'll surely make the best choice suited for you. Cheers!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0tLLzbKA1ZE19

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GTMBA7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IzLLzbHH9G1YM

SECTION | CONTENT

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Title | G85 vs A6500 - Best option for film making? Max Talks EP#4
Description | Which camera is the right fit for you? Filmmaking, Vlogging, and Videography G85 Amazon➡ http://geni.us/jEyA76A A6500 Amazon➡ http://geni.us/bffB4nA If you enjoy our content please consider supporting us on Patreon. Even $2 a month helps us make more and better content for you! https://www.patreon.com/MaxYuryev -------------------------------------------------------------------- This Review was Shot using: Camera on Amazon➡ http://geni.us/bffB4nA Lens on Amazon➡ http://geni.us/dmcMpa Mic on...
Length | 0:10:14


SECTION | CONTENT

--|:--
Title | Panasonic G85 OWNS the Sony a6500 in almost every way...except one
Description | This is just a quick update after shooting my first ever video on the Sony a6500 since deciding to try and switch to it from my Panasonic G85/G7/GH4. I'll just keep walking you guys through what I'm learning as it happens if that's cool with you! New Sony camera & lens: http://amzn.to/2owhmEU Must-have other lens for new camera: http://amzn.to/2pJlBiv Mic I use on my vlogging rig: http://amzn.to/2oQcvBU My bendy-tripod: http://amzn.to/2pkAJ8R Old main Panasonic camera: http://amzn.to/2pJl5AU F...
Length | 0:07:41






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I have a Movo VXR40. It might not be ideal due to the long wire and the fact that the shoe mount needs to be epoxied for better stability, but I've found it to be quite useful. I have a boom stand and I ended up using it with my Zoom H4n and boom instead of on my camera shoe.

Rode is a well-respected brand, but they are pricey and you can get better on-camera mics for less money, albeit at a visual aesthetic penalty (but let's be honest: who cares what your mic looks like?) The "affordable" Rode mics get lackluster reviews and are not very good; I'd buy nothing lower than the VideoMic Pro due to various issues I've read and listened to in comparison tests.

If I wanted an on-camera mic on the cheap today, I'd go with the ~$30 Takstar SGC-598 as can be heard compared against two cheaper Rode mics in this video where it gives the Rode mics a run for their money.

Two caveats: on-camera audio sucks, even with a good mic; you'll get better audio if a mic on a boom stand is an option; also, the G7 heavily compresses audio to 128 Kbps AAC which is not suitable for a significant amount of post-processing, but is perfectly fine for personal recordings or pro stuff where inaudible losses of quality won't be pushed enough to be heard.

> Videography is basically just photography squared when it comes to equipment costs.

Good to know. The more I'm learning the more the SL2 seems like the right choice, at least for a beginner like myself.

> Also happen to be friends with a few cinematographers / video geeks.

That's cool. I either forgot or was never aware of how popular photography and videography are as hobbies.

Any recommendations on a DSLR microphone? I'd like to keep it under $100, but I'd be willing to spend up to $150 if necessary. I was thinking of just getting something like this that sits on the top of the camera. That way my setup is super easy to just film and go, and I could also do some vlog style videos if I wanted.

For audio, the key thing is that you want the microphone as close to the actors as you can get. Starting with a shotgun mic and a boom pole will probably be your best bet unless you have the cash to splurge on wireless lavs. Rode and Sennheiser are always a good bet, but even a cheaper option like this Audio Technica mic will be way better than anything built into the camera.

For a camera, you'll want something that allows you to change focus/aperture manually. That's really the key to getting dynamic shots, where you can set focus for foreground/mid/background objects to keep things interesting. Depending on your budget, if you can afford a DSLR still camera that is capable of recording HD video you will get a lot more mileage out of it than a cheap handycam. The Panasonic LX7 is a good bet for lots of manual control.

If these are beyond your budget for now, just shoot with whatever you can get your hands on, even the GoPro.

Hey there! Here's my suggestion if you're starting out and have a $600 budget.

• Mic: https://www.amazon.com/Rode-Anniversary-Condenser-Microphone-Package/dp/B002QAUOKS/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520276764&sr=1-1&keywords=rode+nt1a
  
  
• Interface/soundcard: https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Interface-Generation-Technical/dp/B01J9NDHXK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520276849&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=scarlett+2i2&psc=1
  
  That mic is a great one to start out with and I can personally vouch for its sound, whereas i cannot for the SE one you linked (not saying it's bad, just haven't tried it!)
  
  That soundcard is a hell of a deal, high quality, and *comes with a mic stand and XLR cable (and an extra pop filter) all bundled in.
  
  Total price for all of this: $390
  
  You can grab a reflection shield and still be at $450 total (https://www.amazon.com/LyxPro-VRI-30-Portable-Absorbing-Recording/dp/B012OFI98I/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520277017&sr=1-2&keywords=reflection+shield)
  
  Important: Please note, while it will help, a reflection shield alone is not enough to tame the echoes in a hardwood room with a lot of reverb. If AT ALL possible, the absolutely best thing you can do (if I had to choose between reflection shield vs. doing this, I would do this every time) to improve the quality of the recording you'll get is to spend some of that remaining budget - remember we've got everything for $450 so far! - and buy cheap blankets from Ikea or similar. They have like their cheapest comforter/duvet blankets that are only like $4-5 each and cover a lot of space, if you use some command hooks (or nails/tacks, whatever your living space allows) to put these on the walls, put a cheap rug down on the floor, etc. to break up the flat surfaces, you'll be astounded by the difference.
  
  I did this to my studio room - again, using all cheap blanket materials and no expensive acoustic foam - and even random guests comment on how quiet it sounds when they're talking and walk in from the hallway and hear how much their voice changes.
  
  Here's a picture series (click the right arrow to go through them https://www.instagram.com/p/BWYSx2XFdi0/?taken-by=petravitamusic) from my studio after I'd set up the blankets, and for sound quality examples of the microphone, everything on my soundcloud within the last year has been recorded on the mic I linked, and recorded in this room. A couple examples: https://soundcloud.com/petravita/the-land-of-no-seconds-petravita-prod-syndrome-demoaday-67365 and another with no reverb added back in during the mix process so you can hear that the recording sounds very clean: https://soundcloud.com/petravita/the-science-of-art-petravita-prod
  
  I really hope this helps you, and please don't hesitate to reach out to me via PM or reply here if you have questions :)
  
  

Just grab some lav's

[This Rode smartLav is great] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EO4A7L0/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mic-reviews-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00EO4A7L0&linkId=4ccaf6812920138f74d980411d5a90a8)

[This ATR-3350] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATR-3350-Omnidirectional-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B002HJ9PTO)

[If you can stretch for $800 bucks this will be excellent] (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/618735-REG/Sennheiser_EW_100_ENG_G3_A_Evolution_G3_100_Series.html)

[This BOYA mic is great and inexpensive] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MRMU2HU/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00MRMU2HU&linkCode=as2&tag=pv0dbb-20&linkId=UZT4YZXUAJ7VKBG6)

Basically watch this video and decide what you think is best for your application.

Keep in mind, for a condenser mic you need a sound treated room for the best quality audio.

But yeah, there are FAR better mics out there.

[This is a great setup] (https://www.twitch.tv/videos/140197666)

I couldn't agree more with /u/SativaGanesh 's comment below. I'll add that when you start learning to record, your focus should be on signal flow, gain staging, microphone technique, and learning how to edit and mix audio. Until you have a handle on the basics, a tape machine won't be beneficial to you. And when you DO have a handle on the basics, consider getting an internship at an analogue studio. If you're sharp and likeable, you'll probably have an opportunity to learn how to use a tape machine and console.

Here's what I suggest for your home setup. You can get a perfectly usable interface for around $150. That apparently comes with Pro Tools, but Reaper is a full-featured DAW that sounds great and supports most plugin formats out there. It's $60 for a full license. Here is a perfectly adequate microphone made by Rode. (Or if you can spend $600 go for the K2, it's awesome.) These speakers are halfway decent and will get you started on the right foot.

Scrubbing through the video I noticed that the camera auto exposes the shot to compensate for the backlit shelves so the fix for that would be to shoot with auto-exposing off or just shoot in manual since you’re staying the same distance away from the camera. That would fix the irregular lighting but it wouldn’t fix the lighting. To fix the lighting you could get an LED light rack that you could attach to your camera’s hot shoe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075N4CJYX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vlZKAbKWY98MZ
This would help you get more light on your face, acting as a fill light and would make a big difference in clearing out the shadows. Audio is more of a get what you pay for kinda thing. I really like the Rode SmartLav + which you can connect to your smartphone and with the Rode app you can record some pretty quality audio that is comparable to 300+ dollar lavs. Shotguns are good too but I typically use both to help match the audio on each recording devices. The smartlav is a great piece of equipment for only $75 and it doesn’t get much better than that and would completely take away the whirs and and sound annoyances. Here’s the link to the Lav: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EO4A7L0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7pZKAb2BFD9BK

Yes, a good mic will definitely help. The best way to get good audio is to just get the mic closer - even a $1000 microphone will sound awful if it's not close to your subject. Because of that, I'd recommend picking up something like the £52 Rode SmartLav+ and connecting it to your phone with the 3.5mm > Lightning adapter that comes with the iPhone 7.

If getting the mic close to your subject isn't possible, the Rode VideoMic Me is around the same price as the SmartLav+ but clips directly to the phone. It's supposed to plug in to the headphone jack of the phone and hang off the side of the phone, but people have gotten it to work with not much hassle on the iPhone 7.

I hope this answers your question, if you have any more please feel free to ask.

Yeah, it's super cool. good mix of effects. I'll keep an eye out for your new song!

Thank you. I record vocals with this setup through Focusrite's Saffire 6. I use Cakewalk's Sonar for a DAW. From there, it's just plugins. I happened upon some Waves plugins that I've become really comfortable with using, though admittedly I'm a preset fiend. My chain usually looks something like De-Esser, Comp, EQ, Reverb. I double track nearly everything, usually with some stereo separation. Recently I've been playing around with sending all my chorus vocals to a stereo bus with octave effects, then reverbing the shit out of it and using MS techniques to really push the sound around and fill out a song.

But I mean, YouTube tutorials, endless experimentation, etc. I learn new shit every time I try to mix - it's equally inspiring and infuriating haha.

I would recommend getting something like this so you can capture the audio from the ceremony:

https://www.amazon.com/Rode-smartLav-Lavalier-Microphone-Smartphones/dp/B00EO4A7L0

It hooks up to your iPhone and your FH can just stick the phone in his inside jacket pocket!

Speeches will be a little more tough to get audio for without a recording device that hooks up into the DJ's board, but if you don't mind the extra time it takes the pass that lav around you could use that as well!

I would use an iPhone camera before a GoPro- they have a weird almost fish eye look to them, and the audio is horrible. Also, for iPhones they make pretty affordable gimbals that you could look into getting, but even if you don't their built in stabilization (especially on the newest ones) is really amazing! Just make sure whoever is manning the camera is aware of your photographer and doesn't mess up any of their shots!

As long as you are ok with the quality not being that of a professional, and you have someone willing to record all day then I think you can get something you'll be happy with!

Cool, Thank you!

Do you think the wireless mic would be a better option than something like this?

Rode VideoMicro Compact On-Camera Microphone with Rycote Lyre Shock Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015R0IQGW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A17MC6HOH9AVE6

Can you eleborate on comprehensive audio setup?

I'm trying to think of ideas of how filming my teaching this could work audio-wise. I could potentially re-add the music in post production and maybe have the voice audio mic so loud that the music in the back wouldn't show up at all.

My goal is to create videos of me teaching my group yoga classes to post it on YouTube so people can take the classes with us if they choose. I'm hung up on the audio and also getting into music copywrite stuff for youtube. I create unique playlists to teach to for each class and it is a big component to the teaching. If I can integrate the music the classes will be more interesting, dynamc and fun.

Any Ideas or suggestions anyone has is appreciated! I've been trying to sort through this for a while now...

Appologies in advance if this is not the best place to ask this, but I could use some help. I have recently started to make use of my DSLR (a Nkon 3200, btw) for filming, and I've been looking at stabilisation setups. I've found three that look good, but I'[m having a hard time deciding between them, so I thought I'd see if any of you lovely people have any comments that might help me. My camera weighs in at around 700-850g, depending on the lens I'm using.

These are the three that I've narrowed it down to, any advice would be most appreciated.

Fotowelt

Koolertron Mini

Neewer

• Canon T2i
  
• Rode mic
  
• 50mm lens
  
• Tripod
  
  Dslr cameras are the best thing in a price range of $4000 or less. The canon t2i is lower end but has huge bang for buck. You really do want an external recorder for them. Dslr audio is horrible but that rode mic will really improve it, just not as much as external recording. The 50mm lens is the best starting point it is very cheap but looks great. You need a tripod for a dslr because they look horrible hand held unless you have a good stabilization rig or steady cam.

It might be pretty under budget, but I got recommended the Rode Videomicro over on the /r/videography subreddit and have been loving it. It's just a standard shutgun mic, pretty small, comes with a fur and an antishock mount.

So far I've used it for filming crowds, which it handles decently, done some range testing outside with people talking, which it does very well, and I've done a voiceover for a documentary-like piece. The mic was really nice overall, but it suffers from phantom power, in that you have to use the camera's preamp, which is decent on the G7, I'd say.

$59 in the US, from Adorama.

[58€ in the EU, from Amazon.] (https://www.amazon.de/Rode-VIDEOMICRO-VMMICRO-VideoMicro/dp/B015R0IQGW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465681346&sr=8-1&keywords=rode+videomicro)

There's also the Videomicro's bigger brother, the Videomic. Don't really have experience with that one, but if reviews are to be believed, it does what the Videomicro does, just bigger and better. It's battery powered, also.

91€ in the EU from Amazon, although I couldn't find an option in the US for under a hundred.

Just my $.02

Try and get a small set up for that price instead of just the camera. Get her a camera, a tripod, a microphone, and if you can a light as well.

The Nikon D5100 is a great DSLR that can do 1080p. It's got a 3.5mm microphone port so they'll be able to plug in an external mic for better audio. A tripod like this will be great as it's sturdy, can go up to 1.4m and has a spirit level on the head. These microphones are brilliant. This light pack even includes 2 lights and 2 tripods for them.

Hope this helps (and the UK links work).

LimoStudio 700W Photography Softbox Light Lighting Kit Photo Equipment Soft Studio Light Softbox 24"X24", AGG814 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4YS2XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZTQSzbVNKB89F

these lights are amazing. I agree with what someone else on this thread said about sound quality, if your using sound for films a good mic is a necessity.

Rode VMPR VideoMic Pro R with Rycote Lyre Shockmount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YAZHRZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iXQSzbKQ519VP

This mic is pretty good for recording, your also going to need a boom pole. For the lenses ND filters are a must as well, get these and some stopping down filter rings for your lenses. The lenses someone listed down below look pretty good

Yes, thank you that helps alot! I was looking abround some more and found these things

phone cage with 2 lenses

light - and maybe the charger/softbox combo

And a mic

Total price would be around $200 so I can work with that. And yes I will just have to show them the ropes a bit on how to get the best possible video.

Thanks so much for your help!

Using the viewfinder pressed to your eye, one hand on the grip and one hand on the lens is almost all you need usually. Otherwise, might be time to add more weight. A cage or a gunstock to add a fourth point of contact pushing against your chest will help a lot too. A very cheap and effective option is the classic cowboy studio shoulder rig for 30 bucks. https://www.amazon.ca/CowboyStudio-Shoulder-Support-Camcorder-Camera/dp/B0036NMQ7S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522194992&sr=8-1&keywords=cowboy+studio+shoulder OR if you have some budget zacuto enforcer is great https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/997525-REG/zacuto_z_der_dslr_enforcer.html and edelkrone has a great compact folding gunstock https://edelkrone.com/products/pocketrig-2

>I really respect and appreciate all of the work you do for Central Coast D

Thanks!

> How fast and easy it is to put on and remove?

Very! I don't use the strap, so you just grab it, and it comes right off. We used it to shoot our round with McBeth, and it was super easy to pass back and forth.

For the breathing issue. When I didn't have a shotgun mic I would just try to breath away from the camera. A shotgun mic (I have the model up from the linked one), helps a ton. It really eliminates sound that's not in front of the camera.

100% i would get the sony A7iii amazon referral links. At the price range right now it's pretty much the daddy with great image quality, stabilisation is decent enough, and sony has by far the best vlogging autofocus going at the moment. stick a rode on top and you're good to go. If you really want ultra smooth video on the move then look at something like the DJI gimbal

It's very hard to find a good camera in that price range. If you have a phone that is less than a couple years old, you're probably better to go that route. That said, if you can afford a GoPro, the guys use a GoPro HERO4 BLACK as a backup camera that would be better than a smartphone in most applications. This model's built in mic is said to be much better than the new model that was just released. If you want to use an external mic, you'll need this adapter. You can also find all of their gear in a post I made here, if you're interested.

Edit: If you decide to use a smartphone, this is a pretty good mic that attaches directly to a phone.

Afraid not.

Filmic Pro is a nice app for making your iPhone feel more like a video camera.

Something like a RODE VideoMic ME or a RODE SmartLav would help things sound better (which makes a huge difference in perceived quality.

A mount for your phone is handy but a tripod is overkill. Something like this flexible GorillaPod phone mount is pretty handy for attaching your phone to whatever stands you have access to.

Lastly, a bright, high-quality LED panel can give you a lot of control over how things look. This Yongnuo YN-300 is the go-to for a low-cost good-performing LED light panel.

Camera is a GoPro Hero 4. I use this headrest mount, which places it nicely between the seats and far enough back to get a decent view both inside and outside the car. I also use this external mic, with dead cats covering the mics. The mic just stays attached to the headrest mount.

In other videos I've run a second camera looking back, with a lav mic just above one of the exhausts, to mix in some better sound, but that camera (a Hero 3) got destroyed last month, and I haven't replaced it yet. So there's just ambient sound in this weekend's video.

For data, I have an AiM Solo 2 DL, tapped into the car's CAN bus to get all the fun stuff like RPM/throttle/brake. I put the videos together after the fact in RaceRender. Template is my own semi-custom thing that I'm still refining. Next improvement will probably be combining throttle/brake into a single vertical bar instead of two separate horizontal ones. I tinkered with that a bit this morning and liked how it looked.

Yeah I've used those before, but never owned them because they're a little too expensive for the use I could make of them.

If you're looking to save some money, check out the Rode Smartlav. You could record directly to a smartphone and sync the audio up in post. Might be worth it to you to save $500 (though I'm sure the Sony you linked records at a much better quality).

Thanks for this video! Glad I could hear this with out having been there. A few production notes:

Please do some establishing shots before or after the interview, don't get all ADD on us and start zooming in on the Water Suppression tower and the Processing Building.

Make sure she's in focus... for a majority of the video, the background was in focus.

Clean your lens! Low contrast areas where there was dirt or water was extremely evident.

A small shotgun mic would go a long ways to help distracting audio from getting in the way. Something lightweight and inexpensive like this

Try J cuts for your audio if you do transitions/edits. The abrupt audio and rapid, random cuts were distracting. Either play the whole thing front to back, un interrupted, or make tasteful edits. No point in just cutting to cut. Always record the full event, beginning to end, never start and stop while recording as you can always take stuff out in post.

The text at the beginning should be simple, lower thirds, and un-distracting. Throwing it up there all willy nilly does no one a favor.

Again, I'm not ungrateful here, just trying to give you some tips to up your production value. You've already done 90% of the work by being there with gear on hand, let's help you take it up a notch so it can be more enjoyable for us to watch! Thanks for your time and effort, let me know if you have any questions about production notes in the future. I'm sure I'll run into you at OG2 :)

You can buy an attachment for many phones that offers good demo-quality audio for around £100. There tend to be more offerings for iPhone, something like this or maybe this would work well. THere's also something like this that would work on any phone, and would give better results than just the mic on your phone.

There are also a few good recorders out there in your price range that would give you good quality like the Zoom H1 or the Tascam DR-05. Both Tascam and Zoom have a range of options for digital recorders, and some of the Zooms also function as an audio interface that you can plug into the computer. I have the Zoom H6, which is outside your budget but a fantastic recorder for the money.

One word of warning, don't be suckered in by cheaper alternatives for mics or recording equipment. You get what you pay for, and anything under about £50 in either department isn't going to be too much better than the mic on your smartphone.

hey! i believe the answer is yes.

i use this now

I used to use this but i snapped it a few times.

the mic i use this one

I have used this combo at music festivals the last 2 years. makes a massive difference on sound quality. you may want a wind sock depending on what your recording environment is like.

good luck!

edit: formatting

edit 2: come check out the GoPro sub!

Hey guys! I've recently decided to invest in a solid condenser mic and an audio interface. I would be recording keyboard, acoustic guitar, (maybe electric, but not a priority) and vocals. I am on a pretty low budget as I am also attending university, but would love some feedback on the options I have narrowed it down to, or suggestions for equipment I should consider instead would be welcome too! For the AI, I thought either the PreSonus http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00154KSA2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKXDER
or the Mackie Onyx
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VZG550?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
would suit my needs just fine. For the mic, I have narrowed it down to between the Rode NT1A
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QAUOKS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
and the Audio Technica 2035
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D6RMFG6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A4V0ATM4SIKP4
Once again any feedback/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!Thanks again!

I've been very happy with Sennheiser's mics which always get excellent audio.

If you ever need to get good audio and can't use the external recorder, a great but cheap mic that goes straight into your DSLR (via mini-jack) is the Audio-Technica ATR-6550. It makes for a great combination of low price and good quality.