Reddit mentions: The best pry bars

As an old house lover (and fellow old house owner), I'm begging you to please restore those windows! It can be done!

I'm making this response extra long and detailed since this question comes up from time to time. Hopefully it can be a resource for others.

But I say this as a guy who bought a real wreck of a house where the previous owner had let everything go. We needed to fix all 45 openings at once as part of a major rehab, and after 6 weeks of effort, about $3000 of experimentation (including taking a week off work and hiring two people to help me), I finally gave up and put in vinyl windows. It completely broke my heart, and my house is uglier because of it. But sometimes, an old window is just too far gone to save. But in that process I learned a lot and I'd like to share a few things.

1. Old windows were designed to be maintained. That's why after almost 150 years your windows are still in pretty good shape. Modern vinyl windows are designed to be disposable. Once the seals break, they start to stick in their channels, etc., your only option is to put them in a landfill.
   
   
2. Properly maintained old windows with properly installed weather stripping and properly installed/maintained storm windows are every bit as energy efficient as modern vinyl windows. This article goes into detail and has a huge list of references including links to primary research on the topic for the people who don't believe me.
   
   
3. If you are at all handy, you can figure out how to maintain your old windows.
   
   
4. If you live in a place where old houses are common, there may well be a local shop that specializes in this kind of thing. Here in Boston, we have two great resources. The nonprofit Boston Building Resources does classes on window restoration and sells all the stuff you'll need. And Olde Bostonian will do it all for you if you have the cash. This isn't Home Depot level stuff, so look for specialists.
   
   
5. Old windows are a big source of lead paint dust, especially from the two sashes (the two actual window parts that move up and down) rubbing in the frames. If you have kids or are planning on having them, removing the lead paint from the windows is the biggest lead paint improvement you can make in your home. Even if you aren't planning on having kids, work safely. Grownups can get lead poisoning, too. Or, like us, you might have an unplanned pregnancy. Or you might have friends who have kids. Or want to sell it to a nice family someday. Get a lead-safe respirator (not cheap dust masks), do as little dry sanding as possible, and take the windows to a spot outside of your house (garage, shed, outside on a nice day) to do work on them so you don't spread lead dust all over your house. If you can set up a little containment zone with some plastic sheeting on the ground, that's good practice. EPA would have you go nuts with plastic and tyvek suits and so on. That may be overkill, but common sense tells you to minimize spreading lead dust around your house and keep it out of your body. Also, if it's possible to pull off the old trim and the old window sills and replace that with new trim while you've got the sashes out, that will get rid of another huge source of lead paint. If not, consider repainting those pieces with encapsulating paint after you put it all back together.
   
   
6. The biggest lesson I learned is DON'T DO THEM ALL AT ONCE! We had to because we needed to renovate the whole house. But it sounds like you don't have to. Pick a room where you can live without a window for a little while, like the attic or a rarely used guest bedroom. Pull ONE window apart and figure out how it works. Repair and replace that one window. Then do a second window in that room, and so on. As you get better at it, you might move up to pulling all of the windows in a single room out at the same time.
   
   
7. Steam is your friend. Buy a steamer. The size and type depend on how much work you will be doing. I tried a couple and found this one to be the most ideal. Steam will soften up paint and putty so that you can easily scrape it right off.
   
   
8. You'll want some good specialty tools. I really like these scrapers. One. Two. Three. I also found this set of small prybars (especially the very smallest one) to be invaluable in getting old windows apart.
   
   
9. If you're going to be doing a bunch of windows, set yourself up with a really comfortable work zone including a big flat work surface (plywood over sawhorses) and a place to put all your scrapers, glazing tools, etc. Hopefully you have a garage or shed where you can leave stuff for a while.
   
   
10. And last but not least...don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good. These windows are 150 years old. You can go insane building steam stripping boxes and trying to make the paint perfect and trying to get everything functioning the way it did the day the house was built. But you don't have to. Just get them to the point where they open and close, the glass is not broken or rattling, and they are reasonably weatherstripped. Let the exterior storms do more of the work on energy efficiency. I would definitely NOT recommend putting each sash into a steam box and stripping all of the glazing and paint and starting from scratch. That way lies madness.
    
    OK, on to your questions.
    
    

• Here's a great video about disassembling a window. I found all sorts of amazing things done to the windows in my house that made them hard to disassemble. Generally speaking, first cut the paint between the sash and the frame with a utility knife and see if that works. If not, look for nails and screws that might be holding the window sash in place. Often these are painted over and are hard to find.
  
  
• It seems you might have single sash windows. That's unusual for an 1870s house but not completely unheard of. I had some of those in my house. After you've taken all the trim off and removed the lower sash, you will be able to pull the top sash out. There will be something holding it in place. Figure out what that thing is and remove it. As for the lower sashes, previous owners might have gotten frustrated with broken sash cords and covered up the pocket holes. When you disassemble the window you will hopefully be able to figure out what they did and undo it.
  
  
• There are plenty of good guides on how to weatherize old windows. The DOE has a great page on the topic with links to detailed instructions on a variety of methods. The video series linked below is also good.
  
  General resources and tools I found useful:
  
  
• The Save America's Windows forum, organized by topic, is a gem (if not always easy to find what you're looking for).
  
  
• This 4-part window rehab workshop youtube video series is pretty good.
  
  
• Book 1: Save America's Windows: Caring for older and historic wood windows.
  
  
• Book 2: The Window Sash Bible: a A Guide to Maintaining and Restoring Old Wood Windows

Lol, that's actually similar to how I got into commerical safes. New safes start around $5k, but even relitively new used safes can be purchased for a few hundred bucks. It's really amazing how much they depreciate the moment that they get installed and their bottom touches the ground. So few people know how to move them that they just end up being next to impossible to sell when they are sitting on the ground. All you need is a johnson bar, a pallet jack, and a few piece of scrap lumber and you can slowly shimmy the safe up onto the pieces of scrap lumber. Once you got the entire safe up on top of the lumber you just slide a pallet jack underneath and away you go. Just get it onto a box truck with a lift gate or if the safe is big enough rent a piggyback. The biggest safe that I've purchased and flipped weighed 3,850 lbs TL-30. Between my friend and I we each made off with a $1k in profit after we got it back home and sold on eBay.

My personal safe is only a modest 2,000 lbs TL-30 that I replaced the combination lock with a nice electronic lock and built a custom interior for guns. The safe door is 1-1/4" of plate steel and the rest of the body is 1" plate.

Google won't do anything for you if you didn't buy it from them. Like others have said you can try and contact Huwawei and see if they will do anything for you. I repair phones in my free time and you totally can repair the housing, actually it's the easiest thing to repair on the phone. However it isn't THAT easy. Though if you were looking to repair it yourself here are some helpful links,

• Teardown Video
  
• iFixit Teardown
  
• Parts Here, Here, Here, and Here
  
• Tools can be found Here, Here, Here, Here, and Here
  
  Obviously you don't need all of the tool packs, you can choose your favorite haha. Lemme know if you have any questions, I'm more than happy to help out!
  
  P.S. the phone lookes awesome when you mix and match the colors - https://www.reddit.com/r/Nexus6P/comments/41s8gl/my_frankenstein_nexus_6p/

Been doing renovations for the past few months and here are some of the tools that have been used the most in our situations.

If you're going to be doing any demo work, do yourself a favor and pick up a large and small prybar. That smaller prybar is sometimes my go to tool (hammer, scraper, prybar, nail puller).

A scraper/spreader of some sort has proved itself invaluable in many a painting project.

Something that's recently been quite useful are locking pliers.

Get yourself a good pair of mechanics gloves. Not these. Not these. THESE. They're form-fitting to your hand and fingers which allow more control & precision (like loosening a bolt in a hard-to-reach spot) without sacrificing safety (like a hammer swing or a stray pry).

Finally, my everyday carry pocket knife has done a heap of work during renovations. It's always on me, I don't have to stop what I'm doing to look for a tool, just cut/pry/dig/scrape/trim/etc.

Hope this helps. Good luck and have fun working on those projects!

Congratulations! Make sure you get a home inspection before you actually buy the house, if you haven't already. It may seem like a dream home but you can't always see the issues it could have.

Some quick home owner tips if this is your first.

Change your furnace and/or A/C filter! Check on it once a month religiously. Also if you have a whole house humidifyer, make sure you clean it regularly as well. That can save you shit tons of money down the road.

Buy plungers for every bathroom before you need one! That can save you from a shitty situation.

Be a good neighbor, even if your other neighbors might be shitty. It'll still save you a lot of headaches.

Get a wonder bar. Sooner or later you're going to need it. Trust me.

Words to get killed by.

Seriously...

"Organize before they rise" - Being prepared is one thing, but organizing some sort of zombie-fighting, apocalypse-surviving group of people are only going to make you seem like a bunch of idiots. Not to mention you'll most likely worry your life away about something that will never happen. It's better to just be prepared for any kind of natural disaster/civil uprising... that way you've pretty much got everything covered.

"They have no fear, why should you?" - Because if you aren't scared of an undead horde of flesh eating zombies that want nothing more than to tear you limb from limb and eat you alive... then you've got a serious mental disability and you probably won't last long.

"Use your head, cut off theirs." - Except that a decapitated zombie head is still dangerous if you are talking about Romero zeds or even Brooks zeds. Better to crush the skull and/or destroy the brain. And better to use something that has a better-than-arms-reach length.

"Blades don't need reloading." - True. But they do need sharpening. Better to save your blade for when you actually need to cut something and bash in their brains with something that is designed to do a lot of smashing, such as a good long framing hammer, war-hammer or a mace. These things exist and are MUCH easier to find than Brooks' mythical "Monk's Spade". Besides, it takes almost no training whatsoever to swing a hammer/mace type bludgeoning weapon.

"Ideal protection, tight clothes, short hair." - Only really works if they actually get their hands on you. For that matter, a leather jumpsuit and a helmet would serve you better. They can chew on the leather while you bash their brains in.

"Get up the staircase, then destroy it." - Seriously, this is one of the most idiotic things I've ever read. First of all, do you have any idea how incredibly hard it would be to destroy a staircase in most modern homes or apartments? Impossible. And even if you could, then you are trapped upstairs waiting to die of hunger or dehydration? Might as well lock yourself in the tool shed or jump off a bridge. The best way to get away from the unstoppable hordes of the living-dead is to KEEP MOVING. No "fortress" is ever safe, especially from Romero-type zeds because anyone in your group that dies will come back as a zed... then you are trapped inside your "fortress" with one.

"Get out of the car, get onto a bike." - This may work for a congested city area, but once out of the city, I'd much rather be in a large truck... with maybe a bike rack on top. Like I said, you're gonna want to keep moving and getting away is your best option. Unless you bike on a constant basis, You're gonna get tired as hell after a few miles, then you are gonna have to stop to catch your breath and drink lots of water. Not that great of a scenario in any kind of populated area.

"Keep moving, keep low, keep quiet, keep alert." - This is the first thing he's said that's made any sense to me.

"No place is safe, only safer." - Again, this is actually good advice. As I said above, No "fortress" is 100% safe in a Romero-style zombie situation.They will eventually find you because they NEVER stop. And if someone in your group dies. They're a potential zed.

"The zombies may be gone, but the threat lives on." - True. Especially in a Romero-type zed situation. Nobody knows what causes it, but anyone who dies from then on becomes a zombie. Friend, family member or not. It never ends as far as I've ever seen.

• As a side note to Max Brooks' Zombie Survival Guide, I'd like to say that a CROWBAR is NOT the perfect weapon. It's a great TOOL, but it isn't designed to HIT ANYTHING. And if you do have to hit something hard with one, make sure you've got some good, thick gloves on to help counter the bad vibrations you're gonna feel from one of those things.
  
  If you want a weapon that is perfect for cracking skulls, but is still a wonderfully handy tool at the same time... pick yourself up one or two of THESE... and a box of nails. That way you have a formattable weapon and a great tool for either getting into places or boarding them up for defense if you need to. They also make a smaller one, which is easier to handle. And a longer one, which has a better reach and greater leverage. I have used all three for demolition work and I can attest to their brutality.
  
  And if anyone ever finds a "Monk's Spade" and a Shaolin monk that will train you in it's use , let me know.

Got any of these yet?

Folding solar:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012YUJJM8/

Bigger folding solar (laptops, car batteries):
http://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Charger-Technology-Portable-Battery/dp/B00G6C5NR6/

Compact folding bolt cutters:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00582WQA2/

FuBarForcible Entry Tool (check other sites for a better description - it's an amazing first-responder tool):
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LS4HZC/

Yaesu radios, in different price brackets:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BFAANC/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MAKK7W/

Pocket chain-saw:
http://www.amazon.com/Chainmate-CM-24SSP-24-Inch-Survival-Pocket/dp/B0026OOS60/

USB powered charger, NiCad, NiMH, Li-Ion, multiple cell sizes that also acts as a USB power source(!):
http://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Charger-1x3400mAh-Multifunction-Portable/dp/B00WFXWUOE/

Setting all that aside, you could ask her for a gift certificate to "Archery Tag," "Axe Throwing," or an escape room with friends. Then you aren't getting more "stuff" you may not need or want but you get to have a great time. :)

Buy a Tarkan iFlash adapter (can also be found on eBay now)

Install Board (hardware)

Install Rockbox (software)

Optional:

Snag a decent tool kit for disassembly

Upgrade battery

---
While you can do this upgrade up through gen 7 iPods I believe, you really should stick with gen 5/5.5 and get the 'large case' versions so 60/80gb, avoid the 30gb as they are slightly thinner and I believe have less RAM (32gb) versus the 64gb in the 60/80gb models. The later models that can be upgraded have some lame upper limit on disk space that the board will recognize (128gb or so).

If you run Rockbox, the device will just mount as a regular "removable device" (think, USB flash/thumb drive) so you manage the files in directory structures, which pretty much eliminates the issue of the board needing to do indexing and being slow like the stock Apple firmware behaves with upgraded story (Rockbox does have an indexing/database function as well, if you so desire to use).

Rockbox can also read the iOS managed structure as well, and you can still boot into the original firmware and manage the music via iTunes if you absolutely want to (turn off iPod, turn back on and quickly turn on the hold switch while booting). Note, if you go that route, you'll have to use the Rockbox "database" feature, which is slower and will be a little painful on re-indexes if the library changes.

The Wolfsen DAC in these players is much better quality than any of the other media devices that Apple build after the 5.5g and they can be found used for very little cash. I'm running a 512gb mSATA, with a 2000mAh battery and I love it.

Feel free to PM me if you have any other questions.

fun story: my father, the paranoid but lovable guy he is, figured out how to sneak pointy things onto planes. he took one of something kinda like these and sharpened the ends of it to razor quality (ruin a pry bar, make a shank). he put a small piece of plastic tube that fit on it over the ends, put it in his carry on and went on the plane. was never asked about it. not once. on the first flight he did that we turned to each other and gave a look roughly translating to "we could kill anyone. maybe even get to the air marshal if we were smart about it."

then we watched fantastic four: RotSS. it was ok.

I have these Footprint chisels and I've been very happy with them. I added a Marples 1/8" and that works very well too. Do yourself a favor and whatever you spend on your chisels - dwarf it with a purchase of a sharpening system. I spend about $100 on 3 diamond stones and they keep my chisels and planes razor sharp. Your chisels are only as good as your sharpening system.

Here are some suggestions of good brands but substitute with lesser brand as you see fitted:

• USA made 17 oz hammer: [Vaughan] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vaughan-Stealth-17-oz-Solid-Steel-Milled-Face-Rip-Hammer-15-5-in-steel-handle-and-magnetic-nail-start-RS17ML/206936857)
  
• USA made Nubla deadblow: 2lbs
  
• Germany made [7] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-7-in-Cobra-Pliers-with-61-HRC-Teeth-87-01-180/100668967) and [10] ( https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-10-in-Cobra-Pliers-with-61-HRC-Teeth-87-01-250/100668982) in knipex cobra
  
• ratcheting screwdriver: wera [Megapro] (https://www.amazon.com/Megapro-211R2C36RD-13-Ratcheting-Driver/dp/B004VJY1EC/), Williams ...
  
• pry bars: [USA made craftsman] (https://m.sears.com/Craftsman-25-IN.-PRY-BAR-WITH-STRIKE-CAP/p-00943383000P), [USA vaughan] (https://www.amazon.com/Vaughan-B215-15-Inch-Original-SuperBar/dp/B00002N5VN/ref=asc_df_B00002N5VN/)
  
• Japan made [Engineer scissors] (https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PH-55-Tetsuwan-Scissors-GT/dp/B005QTRJA4/)
  
• torpedo level, 24in, 48in: USA made or [Stabila] ( https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/stabila-1889-4pc-level-set)
  
• metric/sae wrenches or ratcheting: [tekton] (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Combination-Wrench-Keeper-Metric/dp/B00OXUPMGK/), gearwrench or better USA made SK
  
• 6 in squares: [swanson] (https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-Tool-S0101CB-Square-Combination/dp/B00SOVRPXW/)
  
• auto lock 25ft tape measure: [Milwaukee] ( https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-25-ft-Compact-Auto-Lock-Tape-Measure-48-22-6825/304616955), [fatmax] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-FATMAX-25-ft-x-1-1-4-in-Auto-Lock-Tape-Measure-FMHT33338L/204624581)
  
• punches: [dasco] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dasco-Pro-Pin-Punch-Set-6-Piece-22/100155966)
  
• chisel
  
• clamps: bessey bar clamps, quick clamps like [irwin] (https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-4-Pack-Assorted-Mini-One-Handed-Bar-Clamp/1000914800) , [kreg clamps] (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-3-in-Wood-Project-Clamp-3-in-Handscrew-Clamp/1000105667)
  
• foldable saw horses like [these] (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-2-Pack-27-25-in-W-x-32-in-H-Plastic-Saw-Horse-1000-lbs-Capacity/50333339)
  
  power tool, cordless is preferred. Some brands to consider, makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Bosch:
  
  
• drill driver/impact
  
• circular saw
  
• jig saw
  
• Reciprocating saw
  
• Oscillating multi tool
  
• random orbit sander
  
• 1/4 and /or 1/2 in router

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-099-FatMax-Functional-Utility/dp/B000FCGS0Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367860480&sr=8-2&keywords=fat+max

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FatMax-Xtreme-55-120-FuBar/dp/B000VSSG3O/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1367860480&sr=8-9&keywords=fat+max

Great weapons, and great tools to have around. The smaller one would probably be best, lighter and shorter so you don't get tired swinging it, and can use it in close quarters.

I was looking at that awesome hammer, and saw that the "Frequently Bought Together" item was the Dead On AN18 18-Inch Annihilator Utility and Wrecking Bar. Looks pretty useful as well.

The four most important rock hounding tools for general use, in my opinion, and in order, are a geologists pick, a short-handled shovel, a trowl, and a gad. Some people try to substitute an entrenching tool for three of those, but I do not recommend them at all. You have to be pretty serious, fit and have found a spot that justifies it to start breaking out the chisels, pry bars, mattocks, pickaxes, and long-handled shovels. Further, if your in an area that actually justifies rock chisels you really need to sharpen them pretty frequently. As to price you really should not be spending over $40 on any of those items, but cheap shovels and cheap trowls often have the blades bent reverse if you are using them roughly.

> Datrex or SOS energy bars store well in a vehicle and provide 2-3 days' worth of food per brick.

This really is the perfect suggestion for food in a car. Walmart has the Mainstay 2400 bars in store for about $5 apiece. -40 to +300 degrees and a 5 year shelf life. No water needed to prepare. Just munch and move. I would recommend enclosing each bar in a gallon ziploc bag though. With the Mainstay bars at least they are not individually wrapped, so once open they can crumble and get everywhere.

I also have a Trucker's Friend in the trunk in case there's a downed tree. I'm not going to be hacking apart a huge monster of a tree by any means, but it's nice to have the option be there if it's something manageable and it has a few other tools on it as well.

Good screwdrivers are nice, but you really need 6-8 sizes, and that's over $20.

A wonder bar is probably one of my favorites:
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-515-12-3-4-inch-Wonderbar/dp/B00002X1XT

Although not technically a tool, a nice LED work light is amazing. With a bit of patience, you can find one with 1000+ lumens near the $20 mark. This one is more, but I needed an example before my bathroom break was over
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015E6M23C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_nIMOwbPB7M5NY

Those might work, but the ones for electronics/phones are better for something smaller like you have. More like the nylon pry tool in this kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PHNMEMC

The hand-and-a-half sword isn't a bad weapon. It's heavy, and has a reasonably thick blade - you can swing it at something and be pretty sure it's going to fuck it up.

The katana, however, is impractical. For all the western infatuation with it there's very few people who know the proper technique: The draw cut. It is designed for slicing through material and flesh with incredible ease - which is great against humans. Against zombies that's only going to be effective if you score a decapitation every time. It doesn't wont hard enough to knock them back significantly, and a panicked flail isn't going to achieve much either. Basically: It's fantastic if you're a fucking samurai.

Of course, the biggest weakness of both of these is the lack of a practical application elsewhere. You will want to keep personal baggage to an absolute minimum, so if I'm carrying a big chunk of metal around it's going to have multiple functions. Like this.

+1 to what shelbyguns said.

What is your goal/intended purpose? The mission dictates the gear...

That red handled set is probably more suited towards auto mechanic type functionality such as prying an alternator, etc. If that is the goal and you’re looking for options, look into the Mayhew Dominator series. Goes up to 50” IIRC.

If your goal is more along the lines of homeowner maintenance/weekend projects, you may be better served looking along the lines of a a flat bar (such as a Vaughan 15” SuperBar). You can use it for prying trim, light demo, etc. There are smaller versions such as a Stanley WonderBar (7 1/2” & 12” versions available).

A cats paw such as the Estwing nail puller is great for pulling nails and some prying, but the above-mentioned flat bars do a better job in getting into thinner spaces and can do prying as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Vaughan-B215-15-Inch-Original-SuperBar/dp/B00002N5VN/

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-045-7-1-2-Inch-Wonder/dp/B00002X1XS/

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-515-12-3-4-inch-Wonderbar/dp/B00002X1XT/

https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Nail-Puller-Double-Ended-Straight/dp/B0015YPJMY/

You sure it is not screwed in?

​

I just demoed alot of built in shelves to make room for a bathroom addition I am doing.

​

You usually destroy one or the other.

​

You can try using some of these. You want to make sure you pry between the frame and a stud. But you still might crush in some drywall. Which you can usually fix pretty easy. But it is hard to make it look original. ( that is a art)

​

https://www.amazon.com/Warner-Molding-Removal-Painters-10350A/dp/B000I1QEGA/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=trim%2Bpuller&qid=1563803845&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/Lamson-40945-Trade-Moulding-Removal/dp/B076FHQNHJ/ref=sr_1_38?keywords=trim+puller&qid=1563803871&s=gateway&sr=8-38

​

https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Pro-Claw-Moulding-Puller/dp/B004397VEW/ref=sr_1_43?keywords=trim+puller&qid=1563803871&s=gateway&sr=8-43

if you're going to use a hammer, i'd suggest a framing hammer over a ball peen, which has 2 faces, a 'half ball' and a 'flat'. the framing hammer also has a claw, designed to pull nails, but would work well when you want to penetrate a skull...

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-51-168-24-Ounce-AntiVibe-Framing/dp/B000I1KH90/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1251936764&sr=8-16

one tool that's always mentioned is the crowbar, something that i'm not a fan of. have you ever tried to strike something with one? the grip is tenuous at best and would be horrible covered in gore. if the only choice i had was a crowbar, this would be my pick...

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FatMax-Xtreme-55-120-FuBar/dp/B000VSSG3O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1251937333&sr=1-3

Here's some more ideas:

• multi-purpose axe
  
• a small mirror (for signalling)
  
• rations (either freeze dried, canned, bars, etc)
  
• a small map of your town and the surrounding areas
  
• your favorite book(s) (mental well-being is just as important as physical)
  
• 75+ ft rope that can support 200+lbs
  
• binoculars
  
• Extremely useful books that explain how to set traps and what plants are safe to eat
  
• Camo/Ghillie. While this probably won't help protect you from zombies it will protect you other people (who are also a big threat). (This is pretty big & expensive...but ya know...helpful)
  
  There's a lot more but that's all I can think of atm.

Someone mentioned making a bug out bag to me and I started an amazon wishlist just to keep track of it. At first it was MREs, water, firestarters paracord etc. Then knives. Then various machetes. Then I got on a khukri kick. Eventually I was looking at things like this monstrosity thinking it would be PERFECT for scrounging in the suburbs.

What I love about the Amazon listing is two actual tools that are shown in the similar items section. They're a third of the MSRP and far more practical.

Stanley FatMax Xtreme 55-120 FuBar III

Dead On AN18 18-Inch Annihilator Utility and Wrecking Bar

Honorable mention:

Trucker's Friend All Purpose Survival Tool-Made in the USA

Looking good! How have you liked building this? I am probably going to build this same kit next.

As for you doing your "partial" assembly (not really snapping everything together all the way so it is easier to pull apart for painting), I invested in some spudgers and those were extremely helpful when disassembling the pieces for painting. Now I can build without fear of scratching my pieces to hell when trying to pry them apart.

Well I guess hammer but it has to be this Innovation Factory IF-221 Trucker's Friend USA Made All-Purpose and Survival Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HAT9SM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Ajl-ub1P8MVCQ



Or another good one would be an ice axe used for ice climbing. Omega Pacific Mountain Axe, 70cm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002J8YMEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Qml-ub0K20MJM

A refund! Da dum pish! J/K I would get the kryonaut and any tools needed to help open the case or a kit like this : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PHNMEMC/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00PHNMEMC&pd_rd_r=9XVJ9XP49PHGGAJ3RJBG&pd_rd_w=YvP4h&pd_rd_wg=EUjKR&psc=1&refRID=9XVJ9XP49PHGGAJ3RJBG

ergonomics like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Vertex-EBE-4000-WristSaver-Shrub/dp/B00015UPV8

Also this is what I use to hoe between bulb onions and other close plants. the Wrist support reduces fatigue. So I get more work done.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-525-15-inch-Super-Wonder/dp/B00002X22U

The yellow part is the hoe end and the little curve fulcrum part is what I hold in my hand and the straight nail puller end is against my forearm.

While true, I'm sure I can get into that safe with one of these, and I'm sure I can cut that leash with one of these.

A sharpened Stanley Super Wonder Bar would do quite nicely.

lol, oh yeah, your feet are in the pic.

Shape the head to look like these: https://www.amazon.ca/Mayhew-Tools-60150-3-Piece-Lady/dp/B0000T4UO8

This has been on my wish list for ages: Dead On AN18 18-Inch Annihilator Utility and Wrecking Bar and I bet it could eat this thing for lunch.

I've never been using a hammer or a crowbar and suddenly said, "Gee! If only this thing in my hand could be used as a ratchet I'd be so much happier right now" Not to mention sometimes you want a hammer to be used in conjunction with the crow bar. So you're right back to needing two tools anyways.

I have thought about putting together an "urban" kit something like this:

A variety of different bump keys

Easy to carry set of lock picks

A multi-functional silcock key to access water

A "truckers friend" combination crowbar, axe, hammer

Sawzall blade handle and various blades for cutting metal and wood

And a good pair of gloves

I think this would cover all my bases and be able to get me into or out of pretty much anywhere I can expect to be, but it's a lot of equipment so I think it may be overkill

**The links are just representative of what I have in mind and not the actual product I would purchase.

This is a good list. Just wanted to add:

• Estwing Framing Hammer. Replace standard hammer with this, you will not be disappointed.
  
• SuperBar/Wonderbar. Again, you will not be disappointed.
  
• 18v Makita LiOn set. This set (non LXT) goes for like $200 on sale at times at the big box stores, then you can buy the LXT Hammer drill bare (no battery) on Amazon for like $60. Spare drill for $20 more. This or Milwaukee (just IMO). Hammer drill is important for anything having to do with masonry.
  
• Pancake compressor and brad nailer. You might want a framing nailer but I doubt it if you're asking here about tools.
  
• Tape measure - I prefer Lufkin and they're cheapest at HD.
  
• 6' level. When you need it, you're going to be pissed you had to spend $50 at that moment.
  
• spade bit set. No fun unless you're building walls and running electrical!
  
• Mechanix gloves. I usually get 6-7 months out of a pair but they're the best IMO.
  
  
  Of course, around Thanksgiving/Father's Day there's plenty of deals to be had on Craftsman stuff (sockets/screwdrivers/etc). I need a new box but I already built it into my bench

Have you bought a crowbar yet? If not may I suggest the Stanley FatMax Xtreme 55-120 FuBar III - yours for only $79.90, a saving of 9 cents on the recommended retail price - and this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping.

You never know when it may come in useful...

> Get yourself a prybar (Like This but better ).

If one really felt the need for a prybar, I'd go with a proper breaching tool like any of these

• https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FatMax-Xtreme-55-120-FuBar/dp/B000VSSG3O
  
  At 8lbs and change though it's not something you just want to be toting around in your bag.
  
  A sillcock key (you've seen what these are used on if you've ever got bored in a drive-thru line) might be handy too as a last resort for water /u/Practical_Citizen
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YVMEM/

That pry bar looks pretty badass, thanks for sharing that! Only $20 too. *edit Also just discovered Stanley FUBAR Demolition Bar

This may be a good alternate to that bar. Shorter and easy to swing. Plus, you can use it to get into places to look for supplies.

You want multifunction? Stanley (the tool company) makes a line called "FUBAR". Crowbar meets sledgehammer. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FatMax-Xtreme-55-120-FuBar/dp/B000VSSG3O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344489238&sr=8-2&keywords=Stanley+fubar

Awesome name too.

I've been slowly buying things for a Z.B.O.B. (Zombie Bug Out Bag)
No bag yet, but what I have collected so far:

Weapons
Remington 870 Tactical shot gun
Glock 19
Ruger GP100
Ka-Bar 1282 D2 Extreme

Tools
Crovel
Wrecking Bar 18"
200 ft Climbing rope
Hand powered radio
Swedish Firesteel

Supplies
1st aid kit
Water purifier

I have a whole laundry list. Every payday I buy something new. Next up the Razel SS7!

Edit: for format and links

Honestly if were me in your situation I’d try to fish the change out with something like this electronic pry tool kit

knee pads bro. I've done this. This tool works great, pair of pliers, hammer, etc. Pull them all out. If you have to nail it in (some you will have to), you have to countersink it. Use a large hand scraper to scrape the floor as you move along to make sure you got all the staples, nails, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Dead-AN18-18-Inch-Annihilator-Wrecking/dp/B001SEQH1I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1301116382&sr=8-1 superior, I carry one for firefighting and gets me through doors/windows/walls pretty fast when I don't have a halligan (http://www.kk.org/cooltools/halligan-m.jpg) on hand, but for this purpose its $32 vs $250.

I picked up this on sale on day. Still use the big one from this set more often than anything else, but it is fun to have.

Got my sister this as she is moving to state that doesn't have favorable gun laws for home defense. It's a multitool and a great bulging tool if needed.

Highly recommend ordering something like this, if possible.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Non-Abrasive-Spudgers-Anti-Static-Tweezers/dp/B00PHNMEMC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474469837&sr=8-3&keywords=spudger+kit

Here you go, small enough to fit in a bag, sturdy enough to use where raw force is required and cheap enough that you don't have to treat it with any respect

Post tordado there will likely be collapsed buildings and down power lines I would imagine a truckers friend being useful in that scenario

https://www.amazon.com/Truckers-Friend-Purpose-Survival-Tool-Made/dp/B005HAT9SM

This style pry bar? https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-045-7-1-2-Inch-Wonder/dp/B00002X1XS

I mean you will damage the drywall a bit, that's inevitable, but a flat prybar is probably your best bet. Maybe slip some wood under it to spread the pressure against the wall a bit. you could certainly take an oscillating tool and cut away at the wood/nails, but it would take some time if you have any number of nails.

Or an actual wrecking bar on the top shelf will work even better: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-099-FatMax-Functional-Utility/dp/B000FCGS0Y/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1492429199&sr=8-6&keywords=fubar

Just some extra comments as I go back through the photos again… I know I talk (write) a lot, but maybe somebody will appreciate some of the thought processes I've had. If you have suggestions for me, let me know, too!

Eventually I will have a full-size spare, which means I'll have to give up that foam shelf and either tuck more things around in little spaces or get another bag so stuff isn't just rolling around loose.

Why a charger for radios but no actual radios? I usually only take those when my wife and I go camping/hiking. This just ensures I always have a way to recharge them. Eventually, though, I do want to have another identical radio to leave in the car. I have Uniden GMR5089, which lets my wife and I talk on our own private channel as well as receive NOAA weather stations.

Cold Steel Jungle Machete. There were several times I wished I'd had a machete, so I got one. I like this one. Wasn't too expensive, either.

Stanley 55-099 FatMax Xtreme FUBAR (cheaper at Home Depot).
I really wanted the Stanley 55-121 Forcible Entry Tool, but it's just so expensive, and my Home Depot doesn't even carry it. Also considered the Dead-on Annihilator, and I liked that it had "more tools"-in-one, but the FUBAR felt more hefty and less likely to break when I need a hammer.

Orion Road Flare Kit. Took me a while to find a place to get actual flares, not just strobe lights or chem lights. Of all places, found them at a pilot store. These double as fire starters.

What about something smaller to make fire? Well, I live just a few miles from work. And it's summer. Once I get home, if I need to grab the HURREVAC/BOB, it has a more complete fire-making kit.

HalGuard HG250R fire extinguisher. Not cheap. Hopefully it proves worth the investment, if I ever need to use it.

I'm super happy with my bungee cord solution. Up until last night, it had been a ball of cords stuffed in a bag. Then I spent some time wandering around WalMart looking for options. If you're looking for ideas, check the boating aisle: a fishing rod holder was another option I considered—a lot of people use a length of PVC pipe, and that's all the rod holder is—but it costs about $7. Also, look at the extension cord aisle for some organizers that can be as little as 96¢. I went with the middle option: $3 for a small wire kitchen shelf which I think works better with the various sizes of cords, although it is heavier.

I haven't tested the bolt cutters, yet. I'm hoping it can get through small chains and padlocks, or at least through chain-link fencing.

I know I need some food. It's on the shopping list. Still looking for a good option. Got any suggestions?

While a lot of things were already in the car, I just put together the GHB over the past week. Recently, I ended up with a dead battery and had to jump my car while I was on base. It wasn't a big deal, but it was so hot out, and the cables and cars were dirty, which, again, not a huge deal… except that I was in my service uniform and had no change of clothes. So my biggest concern is that I have something else to put on in the event I need to do some work or walk back home. Then once I had the bag in the trunk, I started putting the loose items in it.

A few more items are on the way right now. Spare batteries for my EDC flashlight (PD35), a headlamp, and a headlamp case should arrive tomorrow and will go in the GHB, too.

What else you got for me?

Edit: Not pictured is a Rand-McNally I keep in the map pocket on the back of the passenger seat. Also, I really wish I could have a weapon and ammo hidden in a lockbox in the car, but since I work on a military base, it sadly isn't an option until we get that law changed.

Go for the 30 inch model for even more fun.

There's so many designs, it kinda depends what you are using it for. Something like a Fatmax FuBar is nice because the lumber grabber lets you pry on the board itself instead of between the board and something else. If you are just looking for a big ass crowbar, just wrap the shaft of the dewalt you have with some grip tape.

Demoing a whole structure like that, I'd probably be using a recip saw/ circ saw to chop it up into manageable chunks instead of trying to deconstruct it board by board.

This looks handy in case of zombies. But I am a bad picker because the zombies ate my brains!

Thanks for the fun contest!

Trucker's Friend

http://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Factory-Truckers-Friend-Purpose/dp/B005HAT9SM

A truckers friend is always handy. https://smile.amazon.com/Truckers-Friend-Purpose-Survival-Tool-Made/dp/B005HAT9SM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479408550&sr=8-1&keywords=truckers+friend

I had this problem. After a little Google searching I decided to try and bend the pins back myself.

I used the narrow flat plastic tool from a set like this to bend the pins. Used a flashlight to illuminate the work area.

Six months later, still working without further incident.

Since I could not make it not work more I figured this was ok to try.
Be careful bending your reader's pins. Deciding to bend it back was a decision I made and may not be right for you

Actually, looks like one of these, which is solid steel, so not good ^fried^taters

I have a kukri and small saw. I've played around some with the Trucker's Friend and don't have any complaints about it yet. I bought it to try it out as a general multi-purpose tool. But in general, I am going to the kukri first.

I carry a mini crowbar in my work bag. I have a larger one in my bug-out bag and just like having that functionality on me.

I really like this. It has a prybar/nail puller. Different sized spanners. And a bottle opener.

Oh, I'm not crazy enough to give a hitchhiker a ride these days. No, I just keep it handy for the many MANY sketchy-looking pan handlers that set up at seemingly every corner I drive down...

My driver's... pocket (?) is pretty narrow, so I use one of those Dead-On hammers. It's not overly heavy, has a fairly thin profile, a good balance/grip, & is super intimidating to anyone not expecting me to pull a friggin' hammer out!

An engineer would appreciate this I think. But it may be too heavy.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-FUBAR-Demo-Bar/dp/B006QYSWB8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1334984977&sr=8-4

Yes it is http://www.amazon.com/Dead-On-AN18-Annihilator-Wrecking/dp/B001SEQH1I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374954557&sr=8-1&keywords=the+annihilator

I got this kit to work on bezels. It can feel like you'll break it but it's usually the little tabs that'll break if you're careful.

A lady slipper or bitch's foot is a podger with a hooked end on one side like so: https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-Tools-60150-3-Piece-Lady/dp/B0000T4UO8

Use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Vaughan-B215-15-Inch-Original-SuperBar/dp/B00002N5VN?keywords=pry+bar&qid=1537032024&sr=8-6&ref=sr_1_6

Stick one of these somewhere on your bike for situations like this; that thing will tear a fucking body panel off.

Had to Google that one. That thing is a brute! I think that would be too heavy for my 140lb frame, and I'd be concerned about those spikey bits getting caught up in zombies, brush, and buildings.

Though you did remind me of the FuBar Forcible Entry Tool, I think that's my ideal zombie weapon. Heck, it even comes in an 18" version in case you think you'll get pinched in tight quarters.

California? mace, rape whistle, and maybe some Vaseline.
edit- or you can do what my dad does and just carry a hammer. nobody messes with a guy thats openly carrying a hammer. its legal, and typically hammer > knife anyways. get one with a belt clip.
http://www.amazon.com/Dead-On-AN18-Annihilator-Wrecking/dp/B001SEQH1I/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1343506264&sr=1-1&keywords=dead+on+hammers for practicality
http://www.roguefitness.com/sisu-war-hammer.php to look like a badass and scare people. also might get you in better shape :-p

Don't be afraid to dream a little bigger.

> Crowbars are awkward and heavy. You don't just nonchalantly throw them.

Perhaps she doesn't know what a crowbar is, and one of those small wonderbars (1.2lbs). They are not particularly heavy or awkward. I bet a person could toss those 10-30 feet or so, depending on strength and throwing style.

For what it's worth, there seems to be quite a few of these tools on [Amazon](http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-099-FatMax-Functional- Utility/dp/B000FCGS0Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1267301427&sr=8-4) for considerably less than $300.

I would suggest buying a plastic prying kit to minimize your chances of breaking those tabs.

Plastic pry kit

we use the Fubar hammer from stanley in the fire co. very good for opening walls/removing walls.

Get yourself one of these. I can think of 1000 valid reasons to have one in the car so cops aren't really going to be able to ping you for it, and a methhead pan-handler isn't going to argue with anyone waving this thing in their face.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/demolition-hammer

Wouldn't be my first choice of weapon. I'm thinking he means something like this

You might want to pick a heavier metal. F=MA

Try the Fu-Bar

Nail puller struck me as well. I grew up 15 minutes from Avery's Salvage and I've only called it called 2 things around here:

1. Super-bar that my ol man used to call it, and at 42 years old, today is the very first day I realized that was a brand name for it: https://www.amazon.com/Vaughan-B215-15-Inch-Original-SuperBar/dp/B00002N5VN
   
   
2. Prybar or pinchbar
   
   ​
   
   A "crowbar" was always either this or this

http://www.amazon.com/Dead-On-AN18-Annihilator-Wrecking/dp/B001SEQH1I

when I bought it my father said it was silly but it has been the single most used tool in the demo and reconstruction of my house in the last 12 months.

Here you go:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-099-FatMax-Functional-Utility/dp/B000FCGS0Y/ref=pd_sim_469_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000FCGS0Y&pd_rd_r=FBM5ZFDACA6CJFCK8CBD&pd_rd_w=S5MFG&pd_rd_wg=ZpH3E&psc=1&refRID=FBM5ZFDACA6CJFCK8CBD

Just need one of these:
Vestil PLB/S-5 Prylever Bar, Steel, 5' Length, 5000 lbs Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027YIPAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k.7lDbN13YH2Q

Combine that with a few dollies and it'll be out of your house in a few minutes.

this is what i am going to use.

maybe the little one, but not the daddy

I would suggest a FUBAR

Sold out ($50)


Cheaper Alternative ($12)

I added a Truckers Friend to my whish list when I saw it in a previous post

I have one of these in my apocalypse kit Must have.

Stanley FatMax Xtreme Fubar. The name seems highly appropriate in this case.

Stanley Fubar. It comes in several sizes.

This is why I drive a Jeep with steel bumpers and carry one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VSSG3O?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

what makes this better than a contoured flat pry bar thing?

I googled your post title and this was the first result.

THIS

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SEQH1I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_f7tKBbZFJSFKE

Real zombie hammer

This.

Flashlight
Tissues
Space Blanket
Fubar

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-045-7-1-2-Inch-Wonder/dp/B00002X1XS/

I'd bring this. http://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Factory-Truckers-All-Purpose-Survival/dp/B005HAT9SM

Just in case anyone would rather get it through Amazon.

This thing.

One of these

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-099-FatMax-Functional-Utility/dp/B000FCGS0Y/

This oughta do the trick.

I work one day a week at a remote office. Since I'm only there every so often I don't have my own office so I got stuck wherever there was an open one for that day. One day I get there and go to the usually empty office to find two of the staff trying to pick the lock. Apparently the day before they had another visitor leave the room and because it had a laptop dock and a monitor in it that person decided to lock the door behind them when they left. This would have been all well and good had there been a key for that door lock. But alas the key was nowhere to be found, and from what I was told there has been no key for that door since the previous management (over 4 years).

It's a hefty steel door so they decided against ramming into it. But it's in a crappy wood and drywall frame. The girls had been trying to pick it open for about an hour before I arrived and before that they tried to abuse the door latch mechanism with a small metal crowbar type thing. I took one look at their mini pry bar and thought "well it's got a flat end, I bet it works like a tiny halligan!" Insert in between the door and the jamb just above the latch mechanism, two or three good pushes and the frame pushed away far enough the door opened on it's own.

From then on we wrote in big bold Sharpie letters "DO NOT LOCK" down the side of the door at eye-level.

http://www.amazon.com/Dead-On-AN18-Annihilator-Wrecking/dp/B001SEQH1I/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1375067480&sr=8-6&keywords=annihilator Rather invest in this.

Its a fubar!

Use this: http://www.amazon.com/Dead-On-AN18-Annihilator-Wrecking/dp/B001SEQH1I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=27SVWRM9U6OUA&coliid=I1PFUXSTR4WEV9

When you're done using it to take the deck apart, use it to smash zombie skulls when the zombie apocalypse comes.

[Buy this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000DYVCX/ref=pd_aw_sbs_469_of_13?ie=UTF8&dpID=51g-Z1pBaDL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL130_SR130%2C130_&refRID=1H6ZNBA1E0MZHKZ6PSNA)

[And this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X4KP4O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1463466314&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=knipex+mini+pliers&dpPl=1&dpID=41HdNhgMdeL&ref=plSrch)

[And this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015SBILG/ref=pd_aw_vtph_469_bs_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1NT2WRRQR46AWYKGDRHJ)

Add in your knife of choice.

[And keep one of these in the trunk just in case something can't be fixed] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003LS4HZC/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1463468221&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=stanley+fubar&dpPl=1&dpID=216GABuqFaL&ref=plSrch)

If you can't quite decide between a hammer or a crowbar you could always go with a fubar. been a depot goon for a while, and always wanted to grab it for the outbreak.

Here is the mobile version of your link

shut up and take my money!

edit: Temporarily out of stock.

Here

big discounts at amazon

FUBAR III

I just pulled out a tiled floor in my kitchen last night. I got lucky because they stapled down a 1/4" sheet of plywood and tiled to that as opposed to nailed/screwed down concrete board. All I had to do was get my FuBar under the plywood and all of the tiles popped easily.

The real bitch with tile removal is carrying it all out to the dumpster and the chips/shrapnel. $1 psf is a bargain for the demo price. For a project as big as yours, it's something to seriously consider paying for.

Screw that. Akimbo these:
https://www.amazon.com/Dead-AN18-18-Inch-Annihilator-Wrecking/dp/B001SEQH1I

Sometimes you need a little persuasion.

It's not like the State Department has been doing nothing all this time.

1. My AR (short to medium range)
   
2. My Mosin-Nagant rifle (long range)
   
3. Either my Mosin (solid wood stock and 18" spike bayonet) or my trucker's friend
   
4. Stealing a good truck, whatever I can find
   
5. Too many to list, we already have our pack
   
6. My house in the country
   
7. Anthrax - Fight 'Em 'til You Can't, or anything by Six Feet Under
   
8. So, this is it then... *lights fuse

I'm a finish carpenter and I use this flat bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ELVK9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1A3GDbVA1R6CZ and this pry bar with cats claw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004397VEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vC3GDbC0SCEYA

Those two tools have been so useful to me. But there's also no replacement for a large 18-24 inch crowbar/flatbar when the job calls for it.

I like my Stanley FatMax Xtreme FuBar III

I have a Fubar3 it's bigger. I like to call the one you linked "son of Fubar"

This. In function it's kind of an obvious choice, but it looks really strange.

problem you have is if you get more aggressive then you risk damaging whats under it.

one thing I would suggest is getting a wonderbar

https://www.amazon.com/Vaughan-B215-15-Inch-Original-SuperBar/dp/B00002N5VN/

and then you can tap the L shaped end between the mortar and the tile with a good sized framing hammer or a baby sledge .. and they should pop off pretty easy.. maybe .. then you can go back with your scraper and you should have a quicker time of it... maybe

I'd say the huge version of the FATMAX fubar. The thing is a monster! http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FatMax-Xtreme-55-120-FuBar/dp/B000VSSG3O

Dude! You need the Dead On tool. Mine sits right next to me in my car. Perfect for dealing with those pesky road ragers.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001SEQH1I?pc_redir=1397603038&robot_redir=1

Yup I got the smaller version for my post collapse kit.

Fuck lock picks.

one of these or this, and a bolt cutter and you're set.

The ban hammer is ready.

There are tools specifically made for destruction. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FatMax-Xtreme-55-120-FuBar/dp/B000VSSG3O/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_c

Crowbar or Fubar https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FatMax-Xtreme-55-120-FuBar/dp/B000VSSG3O/ref=pd_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000VSSG3O&pd_rd_r=X69KMMQWF4GRZSJBXCSY&pd_rd_w=iQFXY&pd_rd_wg=4ITIQ&psc=1&refRID=X69KMMQWF4GRZSJBXCSY

My ultimate recommendation is Stanley FatMax Fubar III:

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FatMax-Xtreme-55-120-FuBar/dp/B000VSSG3O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416358868&sr=8-1&keywords=Stanley+Fatmax+Fubar

Stanley FatMax Xtreme 55-120 FuBar III

how's about we all post one BIFL item that we own FUBAR is mine

I prefer the FUBAR III:

http://amzn.com/B000VSSG3O

Couldn't see safety glasses. If that is drywall wear some goram glasses. That shit will scratch your corneas.

Also get this. It doubles as a zombie defence weapon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000VSSG3O/ref=pd_aw_fbt_469_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DDNRB1A1PP6RT5P0Z44X

one of these? I've found they work wonders, no need for a hammer, just slam it in with the sharp edge scraping along the floor and then a quick twist. you can get it all up in no time at all.

There is a sleazy furniture donation place around the corner from me. People are constantly dumping the furniture that they won't take in the dumpster behind my apartment. I bought this bad boy and go to fucking town on that shit when I'm stressed out. It will absolutely melt a coffee table.

Something that would be better at destroying brains. Baseball bats are too blunt force and need to crush skulls - requiring multiple hits per zombie. I want something that will pierce and destroy brains with single hits if possible.

I would start with a rock hammer because I have one on hand and it is light and compact enough that I can carry a spare if one gets stuck in a skull.

A rock pick would be on my scavenge list because it has a little more reach and can also serve extra functions: pry bar, digging, push off/hold back.

Both of those tools happen to be widely available near me. If they weren't, I'd start with claw hammers. A hardware store would probably have a FuBar, I would have Halligan tools on my scavenge list.

Any melee weapon I would add grip tape and have a backup.

I disagree with WindowShoppingMyLife, reach IS important. You're in trouble if zombies start grabbing you, so being able to kill zombies 24" before they can grab you (25" rock pick) is superior to being able to kill zombies 10" before they can grab you (12" hammer), especially if there is more than one zombie.

Before I start this list I am going to say none of these are affiliate links. I'm googling amazon to give OP ideas. None of these specific products that are recommended but it's a "WTF is that?" answer to some things I'm going to bring up.

I'm going to say a plunger is the first thing I buy for a new home (and learn to use it. The "innie flap" has a purpose.)

When it comes to tools that I think are common but by friends apparently don't own until things go wonky?

Wonderbar

A back up sump pump. (I've had to dig one out at 3 am during a power surge that fried my sump pump in the basement)

If there is no power - some way to manually remove the water. There are hand-cranked pumps available that I don't think people think about needing.

A refrigerator dolly. (Apparently it's called an appliance truck and you can find them for a LOT less than this)

Tarps. Just have 3 more
than you think you'd need. If a tree fell on your house and your "old lady neighbor 3 houses up" can you help? (I have a tarp issue. I will admit it. Once they start Tarp Hoarders Anonymous? I'll join)

A basic understanding of electricity and a labeled chart in your fuse box of what switches control what in the house. Let's pretend you're not home and there is some event that causes 2 foot of water in your basement. You need an idiot proof chart that says - TURN OFF THIS THIS AND THAT if Frosty has a meltdown near the dryer.

A clamp style volt meter. Becuase you never want to "think" a wire is not live and find out the hard way.

Tiny little screwdrivers that you think you'll never need unless you loose a nose pad off your glasses.

Spare garden hose that you're not attached to incase you need to use it reroute the run off from an ice dam or syphon out something crazy. (I call him the tribute hose... he just hangs out waiting for the day he's going to get cut up for parts)

Quikcrete. - Story time. My SO got annoyed at the siding on this little part of the house that stuck out about 14" and decided the day before an ice storm was the PERFECT time to redo the siding. That couldn't take more than an hour, right? NO! We found out that there wasn't a full wall behind the siding and about 2 hours before icepocalypse hit we were trying to find a way to pour a new footing for a structural support that apparently had never supported the structure. Long story short - sometimes you need stuff NOW and the hardware store is closed. fast drying concrete can be stored pretty much forever if you keep it away from humidity)

A come-along. Straighten out or pull what ever you want.

My shop vac is a popular item when things go wrong. I think that baby has spent more time in other people's houses than I have.

Vinegar. Lots of vinegar. It's hard for vinegar to go bad and too many people I know have had "OH - ICK" issues to not have several gallons on hand at a time. You can use it to kill a bunch of nastys. (and weeds if you decide having a pretty lawn is important)

A Bow. I consider this a tool. Some people think it's a weapon. I think it's a tool. You can take down supper or shoot a guideline up over the roof of a 2 story house if need be.

Chicken wire.

Ugh... I can't remember the name of this stuff - there is a tape that only sticks to itself. It's rubber. You can use it to seal leaks or fix your couch (I will circle back and see if I can rememeber what it's called if no one jumps in)

I think that's the list for the moment.

This will be an intersting post to follow. Thanks for making us think about things differently.